Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
  • A61K8/463—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
  • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/41—Amines
  • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/42—Amides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
  • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
  • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
  • A61K2800/34—Free of silicones

Definitions

• the present application describes silicone-free hair care products which contain trimethylglycine, an ester quat and mono-, di- and triglycerides of vegetable oils in a cosmetic carrier, and their use for improving hair care.
• Hair care products in a wide variety of embodiments are known per se and are commercially available. A majority of these products include silicones because they impart multiple conditioning benefits to hair.
• DE 102018202803 discloses silicone and/or mineral oil-free hair conditioning products which contain trimethylglycine, amidoamines and specific ester quats and which give wet and dry hair improved combability, detangling and shine properties and a softer hair feel.
• Ri, R2 are identical or different and stand for a Ci-C4-alkyl radical
• Re is an acyl radical of an at least monounsaturated carboxylic acid having a carbon chain length of 18 to 24 carbon atoms or the acyl radical of isostearic acid, and
• X- is a halide, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate ion, and
• (b2) contains mono-, di- and triglycerides of vegetable oils.
• the hair care products according to the invention ensure an excellent balance between hair care and protection of the hair fibers.
• excellent care effects such as improved combability, hair feel and increased hair volume could be achieved by using the hair care products according to the invention in wet and dry hair, without high amounts of active ingredient and/or the use of silicones being necessary.
• the use of the hair care preparations according to the invention made it possible to increase the resistance of hair to physical damage (for example caused by combing and/or blow drying).
• the improved biodegradability compared to products containing silicone represents a further advantage of the hair care products according to the invention, since they contain a predominant proportion of active ingredients from sustainable sources.
• a cosmetic carrier is understood as meaning an aqueous, an alcoholic or an aqueous-alcoholic carrier.
• such carriers are to be understood, for example, as creams, emulsions, gels, pastes, but also foaming solutions containing surfactants such as shampoos, foam aerosols, foam formulations or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair.
• An aqueous carrier is preferred according to the invention and preferably comprises 50-95% by weight of water, based on the hair care product as a whole.
• the hair care products according to the invention contain trimethylglycine (INCI name: Betaine) as the first essential ingredient.
• Trimethylglycine is a well-known amino acid derivative for use in cosmetics, available from natural sources such as sugar beet molasses. It is commercially available, for example, from Evonik under the name Tego® Natural Betaine and is used as a humectant in preparations for skin treatment and as a setting agent in hair care products.
• Trimethylglycine is used in the hair care products according to the invention (based on the total weight of the product) in an amount of 0.1 to 2.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 1.9% by weight, particularly preferably 0.25% to 1.75% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.4 to 1.6% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight.
• a second essential component of the active care ingredient mixture in the hair care products according to the invention is an ester quat (b1) of the formula (II), wherein
• Ri, R2 are identical or different and stand for a Ci-C4-alkyl radical
• R5 stands for a Ci-Ce-alkyl radical
• Re is an acyl radical of an at least monounsaturated carboxylic acid with a carbon chain length of 18 to 24 carbon atoms or the acyl radical of isostearic acid, and
• - X is a halide, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate ion.
• Esterquats (b1) enhance the hair-conditioning effect within the active ingredient combination a)+b) and in particular improve the hair feel.
• esterquats (b1) which contain unsaturated acyl radicals Re of a certain C chain length.
• Particularly preferred ester quats (b1) are therefore selected from compounds of the formula (II) in which
• R2 are the same and stand for a methyl radical
• R3, R4 are the same and represent the grouping -CH2-CH(R5)-ORe, in which
• R5 stands for a methyl radical
• Re is the acyl radical of oleic acid
• - X represents a chloride or a methyl sulfate ion.
• Dioleoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate is an ecological and biodegradable cationic surfactant that gives hair fibers a soft touch and excellent antistatic properties. In combination with trimethylglycine and vegetable oil glycerides, it also improves the combability of wet and dry hair and protects hair fibers from the heat of a hair dryer and damage caused by mechanical influences.
• ester quat(s) (b1) is (are) in the hair care products according to the invention (based on the total weight of the product) in an amount of from 0.01 to 6.0% by weight, preferably from 0.02 to
• Suitable mono-, di- and triglycerides of vegetable oils (b2) are preferably mixtures of mono-, di- and triglycerides of sunflower oil and/or rapeseed oil, for example a glyceride mixture known by the INCI name Sunflower Seed Oil Glycerides.
• Mono-, di- and triglycerides of vegetable oils (b2) can be used individually or as a mixture with the care ingredients a) or (b1) in the hair care products according to the invention.
• component (b2) in the hair care products according to the invention is preferably used in an amount of 0.01 to 3.0% by weight based on the total weight of the hair care product.
• Stepanquat® Soleil can preferably be used in the agents according to the invention in an amount of 0.05 to 8.0% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 7.0% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 to 6 0.0% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.75 to 5.0% by weight and in particular from 1.0 to 4.0% by weight, the amounts stated being based on the total weight of the hair care product.
• amidoamines are to be understood as meaning compounds of the following formula (I), wherein
• Ri is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alk(en)yl radical having 19 to 30 carbon atoms
• R2 and R3 independently represent hydrogen or a Ci-C4-alkyl group, and x represents an integer from 2 to 6.
• Amidoamines of the formula (I) give hair an extremely soft, supple feel without weighing it down. It has been found that in particular amidoamines with an alk(en)yl radical (Ri) containing more than 19 carbon atoms in combination with the active substance combination a)+b) according to the invention also improve combability and better than the amidoamines customarily used in the prior art (Alk(en)yl radical with ⁇ 18 carbon atoms) are suitable for preventing an overconditioning effect (built-up).
• Amidoamines of the formula (I) are therefore particularly suitable, in which
• Ri stands for an alkenyl radical with 20 to 24 carbon atoms
• R2 and R3 represent methyl groups
• - x is the number 2, 3 or 4.
• amidoamines of the formula (I) which are selected from amidoamines c) known under the INCI name Brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.
• amidoamines are commercially available from various suppliers and are particularly suitable for use in the hair care products according to the invention; for example Kerabase® LC from Inolex Personal Care Ingredients, ProCondition® 22 from Inolex Personal Care Ingredients and/or Amidet® APA-22 from Kao Corporation.
• the amidoamine(s) is (are) in the hair care products according to the invention (based on the weight of the entire product) preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 3.0 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.2 to 2. 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.25 to 2.0% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.3 to 1.5% by weight and in particular from 0.4 to 1.0% by weight used ( ).
• silicone-free hair care products according to the invention in a cosmetic carrier contain--based on their total weight--a) 0.1-2.0% by weight of trimethylglycine (INCI name: Betaine), b) 0.05-8.0 % by weight of a mixture
• (b1) at least one ester quat of the following formula (II), where Ri, R2 are identical or different and represent a Ci-C4-alkyl radical, Rs, R4 are identical or different and represent the grouping -CH2-CH(R5)-ORe, in which
• Re is an acyl radical of an at least monounsaturated carboxylic acid having a carbon chain length of 18 to 24 carbon atoms or the acyl radical of isostearic acid, and
• X' is a halide, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, maleate, fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate ion, and
• R2 and R3 independently represent hydrogen or a Ci-C4-alkyl group, and x represents an integer from 2 to 6.
• silicone-free hair care products are particularly preferred which--based on their total weight--a) 0.1-2.0% by weight trimethylglycine (INCI name: Betaine), b) 0.05-8.0% by weight % of a mixture
• (b2) at least one glyceride mixture known by the INCI name Sunflower Seed Oil Glycerides, and c) 0.1-3.0% by weight of at least one amidoamine known by the INCI name Brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine.
• hair care products according to the invention therefore contain at least one further conditioning active ingredient selected from
• glycerin or mixtures thereof.
• the hair care product according to the invention can also contain at least one compound selected from the group consisting of medium-chain triglycerides with a chain length of 6 to 14 carbon atoms.
• medium-chain triglycerides derived from saturated fatty acids having 8 to 10 carbon atoms, especially mixtures of caprylic/capric triglycerides.
• Suitable caprylic/caprine triglycerides are available, for example, under the name Myritol® 318 from BASF SE.
• Triglycerides with a chain length of 6 to 14 carbon atoms can in the hair care products according to the invention - based on their total weight - preferably in Amounts of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.2 to 4.0% by weight and in particular from 0.25 to 3.0% by weight are used.
• Suitable isopropyl esters with a chain length of 10 to 20 carbon atoms are preferably isopropyl laurate, isopropyl myristate (for example the commercial product Rilanit® IPM), isopropyl palmitate (for example the commercial product Rilanit® IPP), isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate and mixtures thereof.
• Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred.
• the isopropyl ester or isopropyl esters with a chain length of 10 to 20 carbon atoms is (are) in the hair care products according to the invention (based on the weight of the entire product) preferably in an amount of 0.1 to 5.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0 2 to 4.0% by weight and in particular from 0.25 to 3.0% by weight.
• “Vegetable oils” for the purposes of the present invention are understood to mean plant-based oil bodies that have a melting point of less than 50°C, more preferably less than 47°C, very preferably less than 44°C, most preferably less than 40°C exhibit. Most preferred are cosmetic oils that are fluid at a temperature below 40°C.
• Vegetable oils (and/or butters) - even used in low concentrations - can, in combination with the combination of active ingredients a) + b) (and possibly + c)), further increase the aforementioned conditioning benefits on the hair without, with regular use, builtup effect occurs.
• vegetable oils (and/or butters) in the active care ingredient mixture of the hair care preparations according to the invention also contribute to improving the shine of the hair.
• natural, vegetable oils suitable according to the invention are, for example, amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cotton seed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, canola oil, cranberry oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, rosehip seed oil, hazelnut oil, elder seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, Cocoa Butter, coconut Oil, Pumpkin Seed Oil, Linseed Oil, Macadamia Nut Oil, Corn Oil, Mallow Oil, Almond Oil, Mango Kernel Oil, Marula Oil, Poppy Seed Oil, Evening Primrose Oil, Olive Oil, Palm Oil, Palm Kernel Oil, Peach Kernel Oil, Rambutan Oil, Rapeseed Oil, Rice Bran Oil, Castor Oil, Sacha Inchi Oil, Safflower Oil, Sea Buckthorn Pulp Oil, Sea Buckthorn Seed Oil, Sasanqua oil, sesame oil, shea butter
• Amaranth seed oil apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, coconut oil, almond oil, macadamia nut oil, rosehip seed oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, peach kernel oil, jojoba oil and/or the vegetable butters shea butter and/or cocoa butter are preferred.
• the teaching according to the invention also includes that at least two natural vegetable oils can be mixed with one another.
• the vegetable oil(s) (and/or butter(ies)) is (are) preferably present in the hair care products according to the invention (based on the weight of the entire product) in an amount of 0.01 to 3.0 wt %, more preferably from 0.02 to 2.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.025 to 2.0% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.04 to 1.5% by weight and in particular from 0.05 to 1.0% by weight is used.
• Glycerin as a further active ingredient can be present in the hair care preparations according to the invention (based on the weight of the entire preparation) preferably in an amount of from 0.1 to 15.0% by weight, more preferably from 0.25 to 12.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 10.0% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.75 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 1.0 to 5.0% by weight.
• the hair care preparations according to the invention can optionally contain one or more emulsifier(s) to solubilize the aforementioned oils.
• Suitable emulsifiers are preferably nonionic polyethoxylated emulsifiers, particularly preferably ethoxylated fatty alcohols having 10 to 24 carbon atoms and/or ethoxylated castor oil.
• Suitable ethoxylated fatty alcohols for the purposes of the invention are addition products of ethylene oxide with a fatty alcohol, the degree of ethoxylation indicating the molar amount of ethylene oxide (EO) that was added on average per mole of fatty alcohol.
• EO ethylene oxide
• Preferred ethoxylated fat alcohols are ethylene oxide anchoring products on cappinal alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleley alcohol, stearyl alcohol, olelal alcohol, elaidy lale alcohol, petroseline alcohol, linolylal alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol Kohol, gadoleyl alcohol, beheneyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol as well as their technical mixtures that e.g. B.
• the ethoxylated fatty alcohols are obtained as a mixture with different degrees of ethoxylation.
• these emulsifiers are therefore characterized according to the average degree of ethoxylation. This is usually recognizable as a number after the fatty alcohol suffix "eth-" in the INCI designation.
• Particularly suitable ethoxylated fatty alcohols are fatty alcohols with a degree of ethoxylation of 10 to 100, preferably 20 to 80 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol.
• Examples are Ceteaeth-12, Ceteth-15, Ceteareth-15, Laneth-16, Ceteth-16, Oleth-16, Steareth-16, Oleth-20, Ceteth-20, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-23, Laureth-23, ceteareth-25, ceteareth-30, ceteareth-40, laneth-40, oeth-50, ceteareth-50, ceteareth-60 and/or ceteareth-80.
• Suitable ethoxylated castor oil is preferably understood to mean ethoxylated, hardened (i.e. hydrogenated) and non-hardened castor oil.
• the degree of ethoxylation indicates the molar amount of ethylene oxide (EO) that has been added on average per mole of castor oil.
• Preferred ethoxylated castor oils are the compounds known under INCI names: PEG-5 Castor Oil, PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-25 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-35 Castor Oil, PEG-36 Castor Oil , PEG-40 Castor Oil, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-50 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-60 Castor Oil, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-80 Castor Oil, PEG-80 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-100 Castor Oil, PEG-100 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-100 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-120 Castor Oil, PEG-120 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-150 Castor Oil, PEG-150 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-200 Castor Oil, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Castor Oil.
• Castor oils with an average degree of ethoxylation of 20 to 150, preferably 30 to 100 and particularly preferably 35 to 80 are preferred as nonionic emulsifiers.
• PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is particularly preferred.
• the hair care products according to the invention contain the emulsifier(s) in small amounts, if at all.
• the hair care products according to the invention therefore preferably contain a maximum of 1.0% by weight, more preferably a maximum of 0.8% by weight, particularly preferably a maximum of 0.6% by weight and in particular a maximum of 0.5% by weight one or more nonionic ethoxylated emulsifiers (based on the total weight of the composition).
• these further active ingredients can contain fatty substances.
• Suitable fatty substances are to be understood as meaning fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, which can be present both in solid form and in liquid form as an aqueous dispersion.
• Suitable fatty acids that can be used are linear and/or branched, saturated and/or unsaturated fatty acids with 6-30 carbon atoms. Fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples include isostearic acid, such as the commercial products Emersol® 871 and Emersol® 875, and isopalmitic acid, such as the commercial product Edenor® IP 95, and all other fatty acids marketed under the trade names Edenor® (Cognis).
• fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, Palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and technical mixtures thereof.
• the fatty acid cuts which are obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil are usually particularly preferred; the use of stearic acid is generally particularly preferred.
• the amount of fatty acids used in the hair care products according to the invention is preferably 0.1-15% by weight, based on the total product.
• the amount of fatty acids used in the hair care products according to the invention is particularly preferably 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being particularly advantageous.
• Suitable fatty alcohols which can be used are saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having 6 to 30, preferably 10 to 22 and very particularly preferably 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
• the fatty alcohols can be obtained from natural fatty acids, it usually being possible to assume that they are obtained from the esters of the fatty acids by reduction.
• Fatty alcohol cuts which are a mixture of different fatty alcohols can also be used according to the invention.
• Such substances are available, for example, under the names Stenol®, e.g. Stenol® 1618 or Lanette®, e.g. Lanette® 0 or Lorol®, e.g. Lorol® C8, Lorol® C14, Lorol® C18, Lorol® C8-18, HD-Ocenol®, Crodacol®, e.g.
• Crodacol® CS Novol®, Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 16, Guerbitol® 18, Guerbitol® 20, Isofol® 12, Isofol® 16, Isofol® 24, Isofol® 36, Isocarb® 12, Isocarb® 16 or Isocarb® 24 can be purchased. Wool wax alcohols, such as those commercially available under the names Corona®, White Swan®, Coronet® or Fluilan®, can of course also be used according to the invention.
• the amount of fatty alcohols used in the hair care products according to the invention is preferably 0.1-20% by weight, based on the total product.
• the amount of fatty alcohols used in the hair care products according to the invention is particularly preferably 0.5-15% by weight, with amounts of 1.0-10% by weight being particularly advantageous.
• the hair care products according to the invention contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohol having 10 to 24 carbon atoms in an amount of 1.0 to 10.0% by weight (based on the weight of the entire means).
• the hair care products according to the invention contain cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and/or mixtures of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol in the aforementioned amounts.
• the hair care products according to the invention can also contain at least one hydroxycarboxylic acid in a preferred amount (based on the weight of the entire product) of 0.1 to 5.0 to adjust the pH value, but at the same time also to support the hair care properties % by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 4.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.3 to 3.0% by weight and in particular from 0.4 to 2.0% by weight.
• Suitable hydroxycarboxylic acids are preferably alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids and in particular naturally occurring alpha-hydroxycarboxylic acids, for example in fruit acids.
• Suitable hydroxycarboxylic acids are also understood to mean the dicarboxylic acids glutamic acid and/or succinic acid.
• Citric acid, lactic acid, glutamic acid and/or succinic acid are particularly preferred.
• hair care products according to the invention contain no other fatty phase components in addition to the active ingredients mentioned above .
• the hair care preparations according to the invention can contain other optional active ingredients, provided these do not impair the effectiveness or the production of the preparations.
• optional active ingredients include:
• Suitable protein hydrolyzates are product mixtures which can be obtained by acidic, basic or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins).
• Protein hydrolyzates of plant, animal and/or marine origin can be used.
• Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which can also be present in the form of salts.
• Such products are sold, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan® (Cognis), Promois® (Interorgana), Collapuron® (Cognis), Nutrilan® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol® (Deutsche Gelatine Fabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein® (Inolex) and Kerasol® (Croda).
• Protein hydrolyzates of plant origin e.g. As soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysate.
• Such products are available, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin® (Cognis), DiaMin® (Diamalt), Lexein® (Inolex) and Crotein® (Croda).
• Cationized protein hydrolyzates can also be used, the underlying protein hydrolyzate being from animals, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from plants, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soybeans or almonds, from marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or from biotechnologically obtained protein hydrolyzates.
• the protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives are based can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acidic hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and/or a combination of both types of hydrolysis.
• the hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate with a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons.
• cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein fraction has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons.
• quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof are to be understood as cationic protein hydrolyzates.
• the quaternization of the protein hydrolysates or of the amino acids is frequently carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as, for example, N,N-dimethyl-N-(n-alkyl)-N-(2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl)-ammonium halides.
• the cationic protein hydrolyzates can also be further derivatized.
• Typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives are the products known and commercially available under the INCI designations: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimopnium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin , Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl/Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Case
• the proportion by weight of the protein hydrolyzate(s) in the total weight of the hair care preparations according to the invention can preferably be 0.01 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.025 to 3% by weight and in particular 0.05 to 2% by weight.
• Suitable vitamins are preferably to be understood as meaning the following vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives:
• Vitamin A the group of substances known as vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2).
• ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
• possible vitamin A components are vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as palmitate and acetate.
• Vitamin B the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex includes vitamin Bi (thiamine) vitamin B2 (riboflavin) vitamin B3.
• the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often referred to under this name.
• Vitamin B5 pantothenic acid and panthenol. Within this group, preference is given to using panthenol. Derivatives of panthenol that can be used are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol, pantolactone and cationically derivatized panthenols.
• panthenol triacetate the Panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and cationic panthenol derivatives.
• Vitamin Be pyridoxine as well as pyridoxamine and pyridoxal.
• Vitamin C ascorbic acid: use in the form of the palmitic acid ester, the glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. Use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
• Vitamin E tocopherols, especially a-tocopherol
• Vitamin F usually refers to essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
• Vitamin H The compound (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]imidazole-4-valeric acid is known as vitamin H, but in the meantime the common name biotin has prevailed.
• Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H are particularly preferred. Nicotinamide, biotin, pantolactone and/or panthenol are particularly preferred.
• the proportion by weight of the vitamin(s), vitamin derivative(s) and/or the vitamin precursor(s) in the total weight of the hair care product is preferably 0.001 to 2% by weight, particularly preferably 0.005 to 1% by weight and in particular 0. 01 to 0.5% by weight.
• Suitable anti-dandruff active ingredients can be selected from piroctone olamine, climbazole, zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole, salicylic acid, sulfur, selenium sulfide, tar preparations, undecenoic acid derivatives, burdock root extracts, poplar extracts, nettle extracts, walnut shell extracts, birch extracts, willow bark extracts, rosemary extracts and/or arnica extracts.
• Climbazole, zinc pyrithione and piroctone olamine are preferred.
• Zinc pyrithione is particularly preferred.
• the proportion by weight of anti-dandruff agents in the total weight of the hair care products can preferably be 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.025 to 7.5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight and in particular 0.075 to 3% by weight. -%.
• Suitable carbohydrates can be selected from the group of monosaccharides and/or disaccharides and preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 5.00% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 4.50% by weight and in particular 0 10 to 2.50% by weight (based on the total weight of the composition) are used in the hair care products according to the invention.
• Preferred monosaccharides and/or disaccharides are:
• Monosaccharides such as D-ribose and/or D-xylose and/or L-arabinose and/or D-glucose and/or D-mannose and/or D-galactose and/or D-fructose and/or sorbose and/or L -fucose and/or L-rhamnose as well as Disaccharides such as sucrose and/or maltose and/or lactose and/or trehalose and/or cellobiose and/or gentiobiose and/or isomaltose.
• suitable bioquinones are one or more ubiquinone(s) and/or plastoquinone(s).
• Coenzyme Q-10 is most preferred here.
• Bioquinones in particular Coenzyl Q-10, can be used in the hair care products according to the invention (based on their total weight) preferably in an amount of 0.001 to 1.0% by weight.
• Suitable purine and/or purine derivatives can be used in the hair care products according to the invention (based on their total weight), preferably in an amount of 0.001 to 2.5% by weight.
• Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine, adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, 6-thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine or theophylline. Caffeine is most preferred.
• Ectoin ((S)-2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid can be present in the hair care products according to the invention (based on their total weight) preferably in an amount of 0.00001 to 1.0% by weight be used.
• the hair care products according to the invention can be formulated to be particularly natural and yet very effective in terms of their care performance. If necessary, it is even possible to do without the usual preservatives.
• the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden blossom, almond, aloe vera, pine needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime are particularly in accordance with the invention , wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, cuckoo flower, thyme, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, rest harrow, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa, ginger root and ayurvedic Plant extracts such as Aegle Marmelos
• the plant extracts can be used both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in dilute form, they usually contain about 2-80% by weight of active substance and, as the solvent, the extractant or mixture of extractants used when they are obtained.
• the cosmetic hair care products can contain other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as
• structurants such as maleic acid and lactic acid
• swelling agents such as urea, allantoin, carbonates or hydantoin
• Dyes for coloring the agent although this is not preferred according to the invention, complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, ß-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids, pearlescent agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate, pigments,
• propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N2O, dimethyl ether, CO2 and air,
• perfume oils perfume oils, fragrances and fragrances, although this is not preferred according to the invention if synthetic perfume oils, fragrances and fragrances are involved.
• the hair care preparations according to the invention preferably have a pH in the range from 2.5 to 5.0, more preferably from 3.0 to 4.5 and in particular from 3.5 to 4.5.
• Preferred hair care products according to the invention have a viscosity in the range from 3,000 to 25,000 mPas, more preferably from 3,500 to 20,000 mPas and in particular from 4,000 to 18,000 mPas (measured with Brookfield DV 2+; 2 rpm; spindle 5; 20° C.).
• the hair care preparations according to the invention can be single-phase or multi-phase, for example in particular with two or three optically separated discrete phases. If the compositions are multi-phase, the entire composition is converted to a single-phase composition by shaking before use and applied. After shaking, spontaneous demixing occurs again and the discrete phases form again within about 1 minute up to 300 minutes. If the hair care products according to the invention are in multiphase form, they are preferably packaged in optically transparent packaging.
• compositions according to the invention can also be made up as a pump spray, aerosol spray, pump foam or aerosol foam.
• a second subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of the hair care product according to the invention to improve the sensory properties and the resistance of hair to physical damage.
• Patent examples are provided.
• compositions 4 (according to the invention) and 5 were examined and assessed in a half-page blind test by 14 experts with regard to the hair care effect (hand).
• composition 4 10 of 14 experts rated the care effect of composition 4 as "better in care effect"; 1 expert as the same and 3 experts preferred the comparison composition 5.

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• 2021
  • 2021-11-24 DE DE102021213218.9A patent/DE102021213218A1/de not_active Withdrawn
• 2022
  • 2022-10-24 EP EP22809673.1A patent/EP4436539A1/de active Pending
  • 2022-10-24 CN CN202280077145.4A patent/CN118401227A/zh active Pending
  • 2022-10-24 JP JP2024531115A patent/JP2024541490A/ja active Pending
  • 2022-10-24 WO PCT/EP2022/079509 patent/WO2023094086A1/de not_active Ceased
• 2024
  • 2024-05-10 US US18/660,711 patent/US20240285496A1/en active Pending

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