WO2023040923A1 - Staple yarn and fabric made therefrom - Google Patents

Staple yarn and fabric made therefrom Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023040923A1
WO2023040923A1 PCT/CN2022/118881 CN2022118881W WO2023040923A1 WO 2023040923 A1 WO2023040923 A1 WO 2023040923A1 CN 2022118881 W CN2022118881 W CN 2022118881W WO 2023040923 A1 WO2023040923 A1 WO 2023040923A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
spun yarn
fabric
fibers
fiber
dtex
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PCT/CN2022/118881
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French (fr)
Chinese (zh)
Inventor
王健
倪春健
滨田润二
陈娟
许金碧
Original Assignee
东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司
东丽株式会社
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Application filed by 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司, 东丽株式会社 filed Critical 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司
Priority to CN202280043734.0A priority Critical patent/CN117545883A/en
Publication of WO2023040923A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023040923A1/en

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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/12Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using stuffer boxes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/36Cored or coated yarns or threads

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a spun yarn and a fabric made from it.
  • Knitted fabrics using spun yarns are popular among consumers because of their soft feel and good air permeability, but they also have the problems of easy pilling and poor wear resistance. Therefore, many researches and developments have been carried out.
  • Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 4-240209 discloses acrylic fibers for fabrics with low pilling, specifically discloses that the acrylic fibers have an elongation at break of not more than 35% and a density of not more than 1.7 g/denier. Nodules are strong, although it effectively reduces the formation of hair balls and improves the anti-pilling properties, but it will affect the wear resistance.
  • Chinese patent document CN102505261A discloses an anti-pilling polyester staple fiber fabric, which specifically discloses that the warp yarn of the fabric is anti-pilling polyester staple fiber and natural cotton yarn, and the weft yarn is anti-pilling polyester staple fiber and wool, wherein, Anti-pilling polyester staple fiber is added anti-pilling additives during the spinning process to form a structure similar to natural fibers on the surface of the polyester fiber, which greatly changes the pilling phenomenon of the fabric.
  • adding anti-pilling additives during the spinning process Anti-pilling additives are not only cumbersome in process and increased in cost, but also have the problem of affecting the wear resistance of fabrics due to the decrease in fiber strength.
  • the object of the present invention is to provide a spun yarn with low cost, simple process, excellent pilling resistance but unaffected abrasion resistance.
  • Another object of the present invention is to provide a fabric made by using the above-mentioned spun yarn.
  • the spun yarn of the present invention contains synthetic fibers having an elastic recovery rate of 50% or more after stretching recovery 10 times, and the content of the synthetic fibers is 40 wt% or more.
  • the knot strength of the synthetic fiber is 2.0-6.0 cN/dtex.
  • the synthetic fibers are polyester fibers.
  • the polyester fiber is polyethylene terephthalate fiber and/or polybutylene terephthalate fiber.
  • the twist coefficient of the spun yarn is 2.0-6.0, and the fineness of a single short fiber constituting the spun yarn is 0.5-4.0 dtex, and the length is 35-110 mm.
  • the spun yarn is obtained by siro compact spinning, siro spinning or compact spinning.
  • the spun yarn is obtained by air-jet vortex spinning.
  • the pilling resistance of the fabric is above grade 3, and/or according to the JIS L 1096:2010 standard E method, the abrasion resistance of the fabric is 30,000 times above.
  • the spun yarn is exposed on at least one side of the fabric, and the exposure rate is 30% or more.
  • the spun yarn of the present invention effectively reduces the occurrence of the fiber being pulled out and pilling due to friction by selecting a certain content of synthetic fibers with excellent elastic recovery, and does not need to use any anti-pilling additives.
  • the strength of the fiber can be maintained, the wear resistance is not affected, and the cost is low.
  • the fabric made by it can be widely used in making sportswear, leisure clothes and the like.
  • Fig. 1 is a schematic diagram of the elastic recovery of a synthetic fiber single fiber after stretching, wherein a is the length of the elongated part, and b is the length of the recovered part.
  • the spun yarn of the present invention contains synthetic fibers whose elastic recovery rate is more than 50% after being stretched back 10 times. After these synthetic fibers are pulled out during the friction process, most of them can return to their original positions and are not easily entangled. ball.
  • the elastic recovery rate of the synthetic fiber is lower than 50% after stretching and recovering for 10 times, the fatigue phenomenon will be obvious after the synthetic fiber is stretched many times, and the fluff pulled out during the friction process cannot return to its original position well and form a Once the hair balls are removed, with subsequent repeated friction, the hair balls will gradually become larger and more numerous, resulting in poor pilling resistance of the fabric.
  • the spun yarn of the present invention can be made of 100wt% of the aforementioned synthetic fibers, or can be formed by blending the aforementioned synthetic fibers with other short fibers, preferably 100wt% of the aforementioned synthetic fibers.
  • the probability of formation is greatly reduced, even if it is repeatedly rubbed, the anti-pilling property can be guaranteed.
  • the spun yarn of the present invention is blended with the aforementioned synthetic fibers and other staple fibers, if the content of the aforementioned synthetic fibers is lower than 40 wt%, the fluff resistance of the fabric will be reduced due to the high content of short fibers that are easily elongated and fluffed and balled. Pilling will be greatly affected. Therefore, the present invention requires that the content of the aforementioned synthetic fibers in the spun yarn be more than 40 wt%.
  • the blending method used is not particularly limited, and it may be a method of blending raw cotton in the cotton blending or carding process, or in drawing frame
  • the method of overlapping and compounding the sliver in the process or the mixed gilling process may also be a method of supplying a plurality of rovings in the worsted spinning process and performing worsted twisting.
  • the aforementioned synthetic fibers in the spun yarn of the present invention can be short fibers with the same elastic recovery rate, or short fibers with different elastic recovery rates, as long as the elastic recovery rates are all above 50%.
  • the nodule strength of the aforementioned synthetic fibers is 2-6 cN/dtex. This is considering that when the knot strength of synthetic fibers is lower than 2cN/dtex, the breaking strength of single fibers is relatively low, which may affect the strength of spun yarns, and the wear resistance of fabrics formed by them tends to decline. .
  • the nodule strength is higher than 6cN/dtex, although the strength of the spun yarn is improved, it is extremely difficult to drop after the ball core is formed during repeated friction, and the pilling resistance tends to decline.
  • the aforementioned synthetic fibers are not particularly limited, and may be polyester fibers, acrylic fibers, polyamide fibers, etc., preferably polyester fibers.
  • the polyester fiber here can be one of polyethylene terephthalate fiber (PET), polybutylene terephthalate fiber (PBT), and polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber (PTT). or several. These fibers are obtained by stretching, crimping, heat treatment (130-170°C) and cutting as-spun fibers.
  • the macromolecule of PBT fiber has ester group and benzene ring structure.
  • the flexible part of the basic chain link is longer, the melting point is lower, and the main chain structure is helical, which is prone to micro curling.
  • the macromolecules of PTT fibers it has a "trans-side-side-trans” conformation and presents an obvious “Z” conformation, and there are three methylene units on the PTT molecular chain, so in the molecule There will be a "strange carbon effect" between the chains.
  • This molecular structure makes the PTT fiber have the same deformation ability as a coil spring.
  • the application that best embodies the effect of the spun yarn of the present invention is the application of knitted fabrics, but the Young's modulus of PTT fibers is relatively low, which may affect the shape retention of knitted fabrics. At the same time, the elongation of PTT fiber is high, and it is easy to entangle with the surrounding hairiness after being stretched and elongated during long-term friction or high-strength friction, and the anti-pilling effect tends to deteriorate. Therefore, the aforementioned synthetic fibers in the present invention are more preferably PBT fibers.
  • the most preferred synthetic fiber mentioned above has a Young's modulus of 30 cN/dtex or more and an elongation of 75. % less fiber.
  • the types of other short fibers mentioned above are not particularly limited, and can be selected according to needs, such as natural fibers, regenerated fibers, and synthetic fibers with an elastic recovery rate of less than 50%.
  • natural fibers include cotton, hemp, wool, and silk
  • regenerated fibers include cupro fibers, viscose fibers, and acetate fibers.
  • the twist coefficient, as well as the denier and length of the individual staple fibers that make up the spun yarn are also critical to the spun yarn of the present invention.
  • the twist coefficient of the spun yarn is lower than 2.0, the interfiber cohesion is low, there are many cases of weak twist, the strength of the spun yarn tends to decline, the rate of end breaks increases in the spinning process, and the hairiness and Neps tend to increase.
  • the twist coefficient of the spun yarn is higher than 6.0, the inclination angle of the single fiber is large, the utilization rate of the strength of the single fiber is low, the strength of the spun yarn tends to decline, the yarn is easy to kink to form a braided yarn, and the end stops or a defect occurs.
  • the anti-pilling property tends to deteriorate; and the fiber bending stiffness is large, the decomposition of the cotton bundle may not be sufficient, and the quality of the carded web tends to decline.
  • the length of a single short fiber is less than 35mm, the cohesion between fibers is weakened, and the end-break rate tends to increase during spinning; and, after yarn formation, due to the short fiber, it is easy to be damaged during the friction process. Pulling out to form a core tends to lower the pilling resistance.
  • the twist coefficient of the spun yarn is 2.0 to 6.0, and the fineness of a single short fiber constituting the spun yarn is 0.5 to 4.0 dtex and the length is 35 to 110 mm.
  • the spinning method of the spun yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include air-jet vortex spinning, ring spinning, siro compact spinning, siro spinning or compact spinning, and the like.
  • siro compact spinning, siro spinning or compact spinning are preferred.
  • siro compact spinning is a new spinning technology combining compact spinning and siro spinning. Two rovings are fed into the drafting mechanism in parallel through double bell mouths at a certain distance. When leaving the front roller, they are sucked by negative pressure airflow first. After the wind gathers, it is twisted and entangled together, the structure is more compact, and the hairiness is also greatly reduced, so it is more preferable.
  • Air-jet vortex spinning uses the high-speed vortex generated inside the nozzle to twist the fiber bundle into yarn.
  • the yarn has a double structure, the core fibers are arranged in parallel without twist, the sheath fibers are wound outside the core fiber, and the fiber head and end are twisted.
  • the structure is compact and there is very little hairiness. Considering the better anti-pilling effect, air-jet vortex spinning is preferred.
  • the fabric here can be woven or knitted.
  • the spun yarn of the present invention is partially used, other yarns are not particularly limited and can be selected as necessary.
  • Can enumerate such as cotton 100% pure spun yarn, viscose 100% pure spun yarn, polyester/cotton blended yarn (the polyester fiber here is PET with an elastic recovery rate lower than 50% after stretching back 10 times) fiber), etc.
  • the knitted fabric can be a circular knitting fabric, a flat knitting fabric, or a warp knitting fabric.
  • the weaves of circular knitting and flat knitting can be plain stitch, rib weave, double rib weave, double reverse weave, tuck weave, float weave, lace weave, plating weave, half furrow weave, etc., without any special limitation .
  • the warp knitted fabric can be single bar warp flat weave, single bar warp satin weave, double bar warp velvet weave, double bar warp velvet-warp flat weave, back pile weave, jacquard weave, etc., without special limitation.
  • circular knitted fabrics are more preferable from the viewpoint of the pilling-resistant effect.
  • both single-layer and multi-layer can be used, and the aforementioned multi-layer can be a double-layer or more-layer tissue.
  • the fabric of the present invention has a pilling resistance of level 3 or above according to the GB/T 4802.2:2008 standard, and/or has an abrasion resistance of more than 30,000 times according to the JIS L 1096:2010 E method standard.
  • the spun yarn of the present invention is exposed on at least one side of the fabric, and the exposure rate is 30% or more. If the exposed rate of the spun yarn of the present invention is lower than 30%, the content of the yarn that is easy to form a ball is high, the probability of frictional pilling increases, and the pilling resistance of the fabric tends to decrease.
  • the EXTENSION CYCLE TEST program is used to test the tensile recovery of the sample, and the interval is set to 20mm, and the elongation Rate 10%, stretching speed 20mm/min;
  • Randomly select a short fiber from the sample to be tested in step A clamp it between the upper and lower clamps of the stretching machine in a straightened and non-elongated state, press the test button, and stretch to the elongation Recover at 10%, and draw the first curve automatically at the same time.
  • Immediately after 1 minute adjust the origin of the drawing so that the drawing pointer of the device is at the starting point of the millimeter coordinate paper, repeat the above test steps of stretch recovery, and draw the second curve.
  • a total of 10 tests were performed and 10 curves were obtained.
  • a is the length of the elongated part
  • b is the length of the restored part
  • the horizontal length of the longest curve is recorded as a+b.
  • the number of times of measurement is set to 20,000 for the first time, and the wear of the fabric is observed after 20,000 times. If the fabric is damaged, stop the test and determine the abrasion resistance as 10,000 times; if the fabric is not damaged (woven fabric: more than two yarns are broken, knitted fabric: holes appear), continue the test. When continuing the test, set the number of test times to 10,000, and observe the wear of the fabric after 10,000 times. If the fabric is damaged, stop the test and determine the abrasion resistance as 20,000 times; if the fabric is not damaged by more than two yarns, continue the test. When continuing the test, set the number of test times to 10,000 times. After 10,000 times, observe the wear of the fabric.
  • the fabric If the fabric is damaged, stop the test and determine the wear resistance as 30,000 times. Gradually confirm the wear of the fabric at a frequency of every 10,000 times, and stop until the fabric is damaged. When the cumulative number of tests reaches 100,000 times, observe the wear of the fabric after 100,000 times. If the fabric is damaged, it is judged that the wear resistance is 90,000 times; if the fabric is not damaged, it is judged that the wear resistance is more than 100,000 times .
  • Identify two full weave loops on one side of the fabric First, according to the JIS L 1030-1:2012 standard, determine the types of all the yarns in one of the cycles, distinguish the spun yarns containing synthetic fibers, and judge the staple fibers according to the test method of the elastic recovery rate of synthetic fibers mentioned above. Whether the yarn contains synthetic fibers with an elastic recovery rate of more than 50%, determines the specific position of the spun yarn in the cycle.
  • PBT raw cotton manufactured by Toray Co., Ltd.
  • a fineness of 1.67dtex, a length of 38mm, and a knot strength of 3.1cN/dtex was selected as the raw material, and it went through the processes of opening and cleaning, carding, drawing, roving, siro compact spinning, and winding in sequence.
  • drawing process 2 times drawing, draft ratio 8 times, basis weight 16g/5m
  • roving process draft ratio 9 times
  • twist coefficient 0.6 basis weight 3.5g/10m
  • Siro compact spinning process number of revolutions 12500rpm, drafting ratio 49 times, twist coefficient 3.7, suction port average negative pressure 2300Pa
  • PBT content of the present invention is 40 British count spun yarns of 100wt%.
  • a sliver made of PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Co., Ltd.) with a fineness of 1.67dtex, a length of 38mm, and a knot strength of 3.1cN/dtex was selected as sliver A, and a sliver made of Brazilian cotton/American cotton (weight ratio 50:50)
  • sliver B sliver A and sliver B are drawn 3 times according to the weight ratio of 65:35, and the rest are the same as in Example 1 to obtain the 40-count spun yarn and knitted fabric with a PBT content of 65wt% of the present invention , the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • a sliver made of PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Co., Ltd.) with a fineness of 1.56dtex, a length of 38mm, and a knot strength of 3.9cN/dtex was selected as sliver A, and a sliver made of Brazilian cotton/American cotton (weight ratio 50:50)
  • sliver B sliver A and sliver B are drawn 3 times according to the weight ratio of 45:55, and the rest are the same as in Example 1 to obtain the 40-count spun yarn and knitted fabric with a PBT content of 45wt% of the present invention , the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • PBT raw cotton manufactured by Toray Co., Ltd.
  • a fineness of 1.67dtex a length of 38mm, and a knot strength of 3.1cN/dtex was selected as the raw material.
  • the roving process the draft ratio is 8 times
  • the quantitative 4g/10m the ring spinning process: the draft ratio is 28 times
  • all the other are the same as in Example 1
  • the PBT content of the present invention is 100wt% 40 British count spun yarn and
  • the performance parameters of knitted fabrics are shown in Table 1.
  • PBT raw cotton manufactured by Toray Co., Ltd.
  • the siro spinning process the drafting ratio is 49 times, and the rest are the same as in Example 1 to obtain the 40-count spun yarn and knitted fabric with a PBT content of 100wt% of the present invention, and the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • Example 1 Select the spun yarn obtained in Example 1 and 30 English count cotton yarn for 1:1 matching and interweaving, dyeing process: first dye PBT fiber (disperse dye DK9Z3, manufactured by Zhejiang Longsheng Dyestuff Chemical Co., Ltd., 120 ° C ⁇ 30 minutes) , and then dyed cotton fiber (reactive dye RK901, manufactured by Wuxi Advanced Chemical Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd., 60° C. ⁇ 60 min), and the rest were the same as in Example 1 to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • Example 1 Select the spun yarn prepared in Example 1 and 30 English count cotton yarns for 1:2 interknitting, and the rest are the same as in Example 17 to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • raw material B raw material A and raw material B are sequentially passed through the processes of opening and cleaning, carding, drawing, roving, ring spinning, and winding at a weight ratio of 65:35.
  • the drawing process 3 times of drawing, the rest are the same as in Example 1, and the PET content of the present invention is 65wt%, and the PBT content is 35wt%.
  • the 40-count spun yarn and the knitted fabric, the performance parameters are shown in Table 1 .
  • a sliver made of PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Co., Ltd.) with a fineness of 1.56dtex, a length of 38mm, and a knot strength of 3.9cN/dtex was selected as sliver A, and a sliver made of Brazilian cotton/American cotton (weight ratio 50:50)
  • sliver B sliver A and sliver B were drawn 3 times according to the weight ratio of 35:65, and the rest were the same as in Example 1 to obtain a 40-count spun yarn and a knitted fabric with a PET content of 35wt%.
  • the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • the anti-pilling and abrasion resistance of the fabric made by the former are better than the latter, but the stiffness value is slightly higher than the latter, that is, soft Sex is slightly less than the latter.
  • Example 3 From Example 3 and Example 4, it can be seen that under the same conditions, the spun yarn formed by the PBT staple fiber of the knot strength 5.5cN/dtex and the staple yarn formed by the PBT staple fiber of the knot strength 6.5cN/dtex Compared with fiber yarn, the pilling resistance of the fabric made by the former is better than that of the latter, but the wear resistance and softness (stiffness and softness) of the fabric made by both are equivalent.
  • Example 5 From Example 5 and Example 6, it can be seen that under the same conditions, the spun yarn formed by the PBT staple fiber of the knot strength 2.0cN/dtex and the staple yarn formed by the PBT staple fiber of the knot strength 1.5cN/dtex Compared with fiber yarn, the wear resistance of the fabric made by the former is better than that of the latter, but the pilling resistance and softness (stiffness and softness) of the fabric made by both are equivalent.
  • Example 1 From Example 1 and Example 15, it can be seen that under the same conditions, compared with the spun yarn made by the compact spinning method, the anti-fluffing of the fabric made by the former is Sphericality and wear resistance are better than the latter, but the value of rigidity and softness is slightly higher than the latter, that is, the softness is slightly lower than the latter.
  • Example 1 From Example 1 and Example 16, it can be seen that under the same conditions, compared with the spun yarn made by air-jet vortex spinning, the spun yarn made by the siro compact spinning method has a lower fluff resistance of the fabric made by the former. Although the pilling property is not as good as the latter, the hand feeling is better than the latter. In addition, the wear resistance of the fabrics made by the two is equivalent.
  • Example 17 From Example 17 and Example 18, it can be seen that under the same conditions, the knitted fabric with a PBT spun yarn exposure rate of 40% is compared with the knitted fabric with a PBT spun yarn exposure rate of 28%. Sphericality and wear resistance are better than the latter, and the value of stiffness and softness is slightly lower than the latter, that is, the softness is slightly better than the latter.
  • Example 10 From Example 10 and Example 20, it can be seen that under the same conditions, the spun yarn with a twist coefficient of 2.0 is compared with the spun yarn with a twist coefficient of 1.8.
  • the abrasiveness is better than the latter, but the hardness and softness value is slightly higher than the latter, that is, the softness is slightly lower than the latter.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Abstract

Disclosed in the present invention are a staple yarn and a fabric made therefrom. The staple yarn comprises synthetic fibers having an elastic recovery rate of 50% or more after stretching and recovering 10 times, and the content of the synthetic fibers is 40 wt% or more, thereby effectively reducing the occurrence of the phenomenon that the fibers are pulled out with pilling due to friction, such that no anti-pilling additive needs to be used, the strength of the fibers is maintained, and the wear resistance is not affected. The fabric made therefrom can be widely used for manufacturing sportswear, casual clothes, etc.

Description

短纤纱及由其制得的面料Spun yarn and fabrics made from it 技术领域technical field
本发明涉及一种短纤纱及由其制得的面料。The invention relates to a spun yarn and a fabric made from it.
背景技术Background technique
随着生活水平的不断提高,人们对面料的要求也在不断提高。使用短纤纱类的针织面料,由于具有柔软的手感以及良好的透气性等优点而深受广大消费者的喜爱但同时也存在容易起毛起球、耐磨性差的问题。为此,人们进行了很多的研究开发。With the continuous improvement of living standards, people's requirements for fabrics are also constantly improving. Knitted fabrics using spun yarns are popular among consumers because of their soft feel and good air permeability, but they also have the problems of easy pilling and poor wear resistance. Therefore, many researches and developments have been carried out.
如,日本专利文献特开平4-240209中公开了低起球的面料用丙烯腈系纤维,具体公开了丙烯腈系纤维具有不大于35%的断裂伸度以及不大于1.7g/旦尼尔的结节强力,虽然有效减少了毛球的形成,改善了抗起毛起球性,但是会影响到耐磨性。For example, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 4-240209 discloses acrylic fibers for fabrics with low pilling, specifically discloses that the acrylic fibers have an elongation at break of not more than 35% and a density of not more than 1.7 g/denier. Nodules are strong, although it effectively reduces the formation of hair balls and improves the anti-pilling properties, but it will affect the wear resistance.
又如,中国专利文献CN102505261A中公开了一种抗起球涤纶短纤维面料,具体公开了面料的经纱为抗起球涤纶短纤维和天然棉纱,纬纱为抗起球涤纶短纤维和羊毛,其中,抗起球涤纶短纤维是在纺丝过程中加入抗起球添加剂,从而在涤纶纤维表面形成类似天然纤维的结构,使得面料的起毛起球现象得到极大改变,但是,在纺丝过程中加入抗起球添加剂,不但工艺繁琐,成本增加,而且还存在由于纤维强力下降影响面料的耐磨性的问题。As another example, Chinese patent document CN102505261A discloses an anti-pilling polyester staple fiber fabric, which specifically discloses that the warp yarn of the fabric is anti-pilling polyester staple fiber and natural cotton yarn, and the weft yarn is anti-pilling polyester staple fiber and wool, wherein, Anti-pilling polyester staple fiber is added anti-pilling additives during the spinning process to form a structure similar to natural fibers on the surface of the polyester fiber, which greatly changes the pilling phenomenon of the fabric. However, adding anti-pilling additives during the spinning process Anti-pilling additives are not only cumbersome in process and increased in cost, but also have the problem of affecting the wear resistance of fabrics due to the decrease in fiber strength.
发明内容Contents of the invention
本发明的目的在于提供一种成本低廉、工艺简单,具备优越的抗起毛起球性但耐磨性不受影响的短纤纱。The object of the present invention is to provide a spun yarn with low cost, simple process, excellent pilling resistance but unaffected abrasion resistance.
本发明的另一个目的在于提供一种使用上述短纤纱制得的面料。Another object of the present invention is to provide a fabric made by using the above-mentioned spun yarn.
本发明的技术解决方案:Technical solution of the present invention:
(1)本发明的短纤纱,含有拉伸回复10回后弹性回复率为50%以上的合成纤维,且所述合成纤维的含量为40wt%以上。(1) The spun yarn of the present invention contains synthetic fibers having an elastic recovery rate of 50% or more after stretching recovery 10 times, and the content of the synthetic fibers is 40 wt% or more.
(2)所述合成纤维的结节强度为2.0~6.0cN/dtex。(2) The knot strength of the synthetic fiber is 2.0-6.0 cN/dtex.
(3)所述合成纤维为聚酯纤维。(3) The synthetic fibers are polyester fibers.
(4)所述聚酯纤维为聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯纤维和/或聚对苯二甲酸丁二醇酯纤维。(4) The polyester fiber is polyethylene terephthalate fiber and/or polybutylene terephthalate fiber.
(5)所述短纤纱的捻系数为2.0~6.0,且构成短纤纱的单根短纤维的纤度为0.5~4.0dtex、长度为35~110mm。(5) The twist coefficient of the spun yarn is 2.0-6.0, and the fineness of a single short fiber constituting the spun yarn is 0.5-4.0 dtex, and the length is 35-110 mm.
(6)所述短纤纱是通过赛络紧密纺、赛络纺或紧密纺得到的。(6) The spun yarn is obtained by siro compact spinning, siro spinning or compact spinning.
(7)所述短纤纱是通过喷气涡流纺得到的。(7) The spun yarn is obtained by air-jet vortex spinning.
(8)一种40wt%以上使用(1)~(7)中任一项所述短纤纱制得的面料。(8) A fabric made by using more than 40 wt% of the spun yarn described in (1) to (7).
(9)根据GB/T 4802.2:2008标准,所述面料的抗起毛起球性为3级以上,和/或根据JIS L 1096:2010标准E法,所述面料的耐磨性为3万回以上。(9) According to the GB/T 4802.2:2008 standard, the pilling resistance of the fabric is above grade 3, and/or according to the JIS L 1096:2010 standard E method, the abrasion resistance of the fabric is 30,000 times above.
(10)所述短纤纱在面料的至少一面上露出,且露出率为30%以上。(10) The spun yarn is exposed on at least one side of the fabric, and the exposure rate is 30% or more.
本发明的短纤纱通过选用一定含量的具有优异弹性回复性的合成纤维,有效减少了因摩擦而导致纤维被拉出并起毛起球的现象的发生,不需要使用任何的抗起球添加剂,纤维的强力得以保持,耐磨性不受影响,成本低廉,由其制得的面料可广泛用于制作运动服、休闲服等。The spun yarn of the present invention effectively reduces the occurrence of the fiber being pulled out and pilling due to friction by selecting a certain content of synthetic fibers with excellent elastic recovery, and does not need to use any anti-pilling additives. The strength of the fiber can be maintained, the wear resistance is not affected, and the cost is low. The fabric made by it can be widely used in making sportswear, leisure clothes and the like.
附图说明Description of drawings
图1为合成纤维单纤维的拉伸后弹性回复的示意图,其中,a为伸长部长度,b为回复部长度。Fig. 1 is a schematic diagram of the elastic recovery of a synthetic fiber single fiber after stretching, wherein a is the length of the elongated part, and b is the length of the recovered part.
具体实施方式Detailed ways
合成纤维的单纤维被拉伸(特别是被拉伸10%)后,在回复过程中会出现拉伸可回复部和拉伸不可回复部。拉伸可回复部所占的比例越高,纤维的弹性回复性越好。本发明的短纤纱中含有拉伸回复10回后弹性回复率为50%以上的合成纤维,这些合成纤维在摩擦过程中被拉出来后,大部分都能回到原位,不易缠结成球。如果合成纤维拉伸回复10回后的弹性回复率低于50%的话,合成纤维被多次拉伸后,疲劳现象明显,摩擦过程中被拉出来的绒毛不能很好地回到原位从而形成了毛球,随着后续反复摩擦,毛球渐渐变大、变多,从而导致面料的抗起毛起球性变差。After the single fiber of the synthetic fiber is stretched (especially stretched by 10%), a stretch recoverable portion and a stretch non-recoverable portion will appear during the recovery process. The higher the proportion of the stretch-recoverable portion, the better the elastic recovery of the fiber. The spun yarn of the present invention contains synthetic fibers whose elastic recovery rate is more than 50% after being stretched back 10 times. After these synthetic fibers are pulled out during the friction process, most of them can return to their original positions and are not easily entangled. ball. If the elastic recovery rate of the synthetic fiber is lower than 50% after stretching and recovering for 10 times, the fatigue phenomenon will be obvious after the synthetic fiber is stretched many times, and the fluff pulled out during the friction process cannot return to its original position well and form a Once the hair balls are removed, with subsequent repeated friction, the hair balls will gradually become larger and more numerous, resulting in poor pilling resistance of the fabric.
本发明的短纤纱可以是由100wt%的前记合成纤维构成,也可以是由前记合成纤维与其他短纤维混纺而成,优选由100wt%的前记合成纤维构成,这样的话,毛球形成的概率大大地减小,即便是被反复摩擦,抗起毛起球性也能得到保证。本发明的短纤纱由前记合成纤维与其他短纤维混纺时,如果前记合成纤维的含量低于40wt%的话,由于容易被拉长起毛并且成球的短纤维含量高,面料的抗起毛起球性会受到极大的影响。因此,本发明要求短纤纱中前记合成纤维的含量在40wt%以上。The spun yarn of the present invention can be made of 100wt% of the aforementioned synthetic fibers, or can be formed by blending the aforementioned synthetic fibers with other short fibers, preferably 100wt% of the aforementioned synthetic fibers. The probability of formation is greatly reduced, even if it is repeatedly rubbed, the anti-pilling property can be guaranteed. When the spun yarn of the present invention is blended with the aforementioned synthetic fibers and other staple fibers, if the content of the aforementioned synthetic fibers is lower than 40 wt%, the fluff resistance of the fabric will be reduced due to the high content of short fibers that are easily elongated and fluffed and balled. Pilling will be greatly affected. Therefore, the present invention requires that the content of the aforementioned synthetic fibers in the spun yarn be more than 40 wt%.
本发明的短纤纱由前记合成纤维与其他短纤维混纺时,所用混纺方式不作特别限定,可以是在混打绵或梳棉工序中将原棉进行混棉的方法,也可以是在并条工序或混 合针梳工序中将条子重叠复合的方法,还可以是在精纺工序中供给多根粗纱进行精纺加捻的方法等。When the spun yarn of the present invention is blended with the aforementioned synthetic fibers and other short fibers, the blending method used is not particularly limited, and it may be a method of blending raw cotton in the cotton blending or carding process, or in drawing frame The method of overlapping and compounding the sliver in the process or the mixed gilling process may also be a method of supplying a plurality of rovings in the worsted spinning process and performing worsted twisting.
本发明的短纤纱中前记合成纤维可以是具有相同弹性回复率的短纤维,也可以是具有不同弹性回复率的短纤维,只要弹性回复率都在50%以上即可。The aforementioned synthetic fibers in the spun yarn of the present invention can be short fibers with the same elastic recovery rate, or short fibers with different elastic recovery rates, as long as the elastic recovery rates are all above 50%.
作为优选,前记合成纤维的结节强度为2~6cN/dtex。这是考虑到,合成纤维的结节强度低于2cN/dtex时,单纤维的断裂强力比较低,有可能会影响到短纤纱的强力,由其形成的面料的耐磨性有下降的趋势。当结节强度高于6cN/dtex时,短纤纱的强力虽然有所提高,但是在反复摩擦过程中,形成了球核后极不易掉落,抗起毛起球性有下降的趋势。Preferably, the nodule strength of the aforementioned synthetic fibers is 2-6 cN/dtex. This is considering that when the knot strength of synthetic fibers is lower than 2cN/dtex, the breaking strength of single fibers is relatively low, which may affect the strength of spun yarns, and the wear resistance of fabrics formed by them tends to decline. . When the nodule strength is higher than 6cN/dtex, although the strength of the spun yarn is improved, it is extremely difficult to drop after the ball core is formed during repeated friction, and the pilling resistance tends to decline.
前记合成纤维的种类没有特别限定,可以是聚酯纤维、丙烯酸纤维、聚酰胺纤维等,优选为聚酯纤维。这里的聚酯纤维可以是聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯纤维(PET)、聚对苯二甲酸丁二醇酯纤维(PBT)、聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯纤维(PTT)中的一种或几种。这些纤维是通过将初生纤维经拉伸、卷曲、热处理(130~170℃)和切断等工序得到的。The aforementioned synthetic fibers are not particularly limited, and may be polyester fibers, acrylic fibers, polyamide fibers, etc., preferably polyester fibers. The polyester fiber here can be one of polyethylene terephthalate fiber (PET), polybutylene terephthalate fiber (PBT), and polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber (PTT). or several. These fibers are obtained by stretching, crimping, heat treatment (130-170°C) and cutting as-spun fibers.
其中,PBT纤维的大分子具有酯基和苯环结构,与普通PET纤维相比,基本链节上的柔性部分较长,熔点较低,主链结构呈螺旋状,容易发生微卷曲。PTT纤维的大分子中,具有“反式-旁式-旁式-反式”构象并呈现出一种明显的“Z”字形构象,而且PTT分子链上有三个亚甲基单元,因此在分子链之间会产生“奇碳效应”,这种分子结构使得PTT纤维具有如同线圈式弹簧一样的变形能力。最能体现本发明短纤纱效果的用途是针织物用途,但是PTT纤维的杨氏模量相对较低,有可能会影响到针织物的保型性。同时,PTT纤维的伸度较高,在长时间摩擦或者高强力摩擦时,被拉伸变长后容易和周围的毛羽发生缠绕,抗起毛起球效果有变差的趋势。因此,本发明中前记合成纤维更优选为PBT纤维。Among them, the macromolecule of PBT fiber has ester group and benzene ring structure. Compared with ordinary PET fiber, the flexible part of the basic chain link is longer, the melting point is lower, and the main chain structure is helical, which is prone to micro curling. In the macromolecules of PTT fibers, it has a "trans-side-side-trans" conformation and presents an obvious "Z" conformation, and there are three methylene units on the PTT molecular chain, so in the molecule There will be a "strange carbon effect" between the chains. This molecular structure makes the PTT fiber have the same deformation ability as a coil spring. The application that best embodies the effect of the spun yarn of the present invention is the application of knitted fabrics, but the Young's modulus of PTT fibers is relatively low, which may affect the shape retention of knitted fabrics. At the same time, the elongation of PTT fiber is high, and it is easy to entangle with the surrounding hairiness after being stretched and elongated during long-term friction or high-strength friction, and the anti-pilling effect tends to deteriorate. Therefore, the aforementioned synthetic fibers in the present invention are more preferably PBT fibers.
另外,在纺丝过程中纤维容易被拉长的话也会发生纱线品质下降、强力下降等问题,因此,最优选前记合成纤维为杨氏模量在30cN/dtex以上、且伸度在75%以下的纤维。In addition, if the fiber is easily elongated during the spinning process, problems such as yarn quality degradation and strength degradation will also occur. Therefore, the most preferred synthetic fiber mentioned above has a Young's modulus of 30 cN/dtex or more and an elongation of 75. % less fiber.
前记其他短纤维的种类也没有特别限定,可根据需要进行选择,如天然纤维、再生纤维、弹性回复率小于50%的合成纤维等。天然纤维可以列举的如棉、麻、毛、绢等,再生纤维可以列举的如铜氨纤维、粘胶纤维、醋酯纤维等。The types of other short fibers mentioned above are not particularly limited, and can be selected according to needs, such as natural fibers, regenerated fibers, and synthetic fibers with an elastic recovery rate of less than 50%. Examples of natural fibers include cotton, hemp, wool, and silk, and examples of regenerated fibers include cupro fibers, viscose fibers, and acetate fibers.
捻系数、以及构成短纤纱的单根短纤维的纤度和长度对本发明的短纤纱来说也是至 关重要的。以英制捻系数为例,短纤纱的捻系数低于2.0时,纤维间抱合力低,弱捻情况较多,短纤纱的强力有下降的趋势,在细纱工序中断头率增加,毛羽和棉结有增多的趋势。短纤纱的捻系数高于6.0时,单纤维的倾斜角度大,单纤维的强力利用率低,短纤纱的强力有下降的趋势,纱线易扭结形成辫子纱,断头停机或产生疵布的几率有增加的趋势,而且由其制得的面料的手感有变硬的趋势。单根短纤维的纤度低于0.5dtex的话,一方面纺纱难度增加,另一方面由于纤维抗弯刚度小,容易出现棉结,有可能会影响到布面品质。而单根短纤维的纤度高于4.0dtex的话,同等条件下,构成短纤纱的单根短纤维根数减少,纤维间抱合力降低,在摩擦的过程中,毛羽易被拉出形成球核,抗起毛起球性有变差的趋势;而且纤维抗弯刚度大,棉束分解可能不充分,梳棉成网的质量有下降的趋势。单根短纤维的长度低于35mm时,纤维与纤维之间的抱合力减弱,纺纱时断头率有变高的趋势;并且,成纱后,由于纤维较短,摩擦过程中很容易被拉出形成球核,抗起毛起球性有下降的趋势。单根短纤维的长度大于110mm时,开清棉、梳棉过程中纤维容易被损伤扯断,棉结数量增多,而这些棉结在摩擦过程中极易成核,抗起毛起球性有变差的趋势。因此,本发明中优选短纤纱的捻系数为2.0~6.0,且构成短纤纱的单根短纤维的纤度为0.5~4.0dtex、长度为35~110mm。The twist coefficient, as well as the denier and length of the individual staple fibers that make up the spun yarn are also critical to the spun yarn of the present invention. Taking the British twist coefficient as an example, when the twist coefficient of the spun yarn is lower than 2.0, the interfiber cohesion is low, there are many cases of weak twist, the strength of the spun yarn tends to decline, the rate of end breaks increases in the spinning process, and the hairiness and Neps tend to increase. When the twist coefficient of the spun yarn is higher than 6.0, the inclination angle of the single fiber is large, the utilization rate of the strength of the single fiber is low, the strength of the spun yarn tends to decline, the yarn is easy to kink to form a braided yarn, and the end stops or a defect occurs. The probability of cloth tends to increase, and the feel of fabrics made from it tends to harden. If the fineness of a single short fiber is lower than 0.5dtex, on the one hand, the difficulty of spinning will increase; on the other hand, due to the low bending stiffness of the fiber, neps are prone to appear, which may affect the quality of the cloth surface. However, if the fineness of a single short fiber is higher than 4.0dtex, under the same conditions, the number of single short fibers constituting the spun yarn decreases, and the cohesion between fibers decreases. During the friction process, the hairiness is easily pulled out to form a ball core. , the anti-pilling property tends to deteriorate; and the fiber bending stiffness is large, the decomposition of the cotton bundle may not be sufficient, and the quality of the carded web tends to decline. When the length of a single short fiber is less than 35mm, the cohesion between fibers is weakened, and the end-break rate tends to increase during spinning; and, after yarn formation, due to the short fiber, it is easy to be damaged during the friction process. Pulling out to form a core tends to lower the pilling resistance. When the length of a single short fiber is greater than 110mm, the fiber is easily damaged and torn during the process of opening, cleaning and carding, and the number of neps increases, and these neps are easily nucleated during the friction process, and the anti-pilling property is changed bad trend. Therefore, in the present invention, it is preferable that the twist coefficient of the spun yarn is 2.0 to 6.0, and the fineness of a single short fiber constituting the spun yarn is 0.5 to 4.0 dtex and the length is 35 to 110 mm.
本发明的短纤纱的纺纱方式没有特别限定,可以列举的如喷气涡流纺、环锭纺、赛络紧密纺、赛络纺或紧密纺等。考虑到兼顾抗起毛起球的效果以及手感,优选赛络紧密纺、赛络纺或紧密纺。其中,赛络紧密纺是紧密纺和赛络纺相结合的新型纺纱技术,两根粗纱以一定的间距经过双喇叭口平行喂入牵伸机构,离开前罗拉时,先通过负压气流吸风聚集后,再加捻缠绕在一起,其结构更加紧密,同时毛羽也大幅度减少,所以作为更优选。喷气涡流纺是利用喷嘴内部产生的高速涡流对纤维束进行加捻成纱,成纱具有双重结构,芯纤维平行排列、无捻度,鞘纤维缠绕于芯纤维外部,纤维头端和末端都被捻入纱线中,结构紧密、毛羽极少,考虑到更好的抗起球效果,则优选喷气涡流纺。The spinning method of the spun yarn of the present invention is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include air-jet vortex spinning, ring spinning, siro compact spinning, siro spinning or compact spinning, and the like. In consideration of both the effect of anti-pilling and the hand feeling, siro compact spinning, siro spinning or compact spinning are preferred. Among them, siro compact spinning is a new spinning technology combining compact spinning and siro spinning. Two rovings are fed into the drafting mechanism in parallel through double bell mouths at a certain distance. When leaving the front roller, they are sucked by negative pressure airflow first. After the wind gathers, it is twisted and entangled together, the structure is more compact, and the hairiness is also greatly reduced, so it is more preferable. Air-jet vortex spinning uses the high-speed vortex generated inside the nozzle to twist the fiber bundle into yarn. The yarn has a double structure, the core fibers are arranged in parallel without twist, the sheath fibers are wound outside the core fiber, and the fiber head and end are twisted. In the yarn, the structure is compact and there is very little hairiness. Considering the better anti-pilling effect, air-jet vortex spinning is preferred.
使用40wt%以上的上述短纤纱作为原料制得面料。这里的面料可以是机织物,也可以是针织物。部分使用本发明的短纤纱时,其他纱线没有特别限定,可根据需要进行选择。可以列举的如棉100%纯纺纱线、粘胶100%纯纺纱线、聚酯/棉混纺纱(这里的聚酯纤维为拉伸回复10回后弹性回复率低于50%的PET纤维)等。其中,针织物可以是圆机编物、横机编物,也可以是经编物。圆编物和横编物的组织可以是平针组织、罗纹组织、双罗纹组织、双反面组织、集圈组织、浮线组织、蕾丝组织、添纱组织、半畦编组织等, 不作特别限定。经编物可以是单梳栉经平组织、单梳栉经缎组织、双梳栉经绒组织、双梳栉经绒-经平组织、背面起绒组织、提花组织等,不作特别限定。其中,从抗起毛起球性效果方面考虑,更优选圆编物。另外,单层和多层都可以,前述多层可以是双层或更多层组织。Using more than 40 wt% of the above-mentioned spun yarns as raw materials to prepare fabrics. The fabric here can be woven or knitted. When the spun yarn of the present invention is partially used, other yarns are not particularly limited and can be selected as necessary. Can enumerate such as cotton 100% pure spun yarn, viscose 100% pure spun yarn, polyester/cotton blended yarn (the polyester fiber here is PET with an elastic recovery rate lower than 50% after stretching back 10 times) fiber), etc. Wherein, the knitted fabric can be a circular knitting fabric, a flat knitting fabric, or a warp knitting fabric. The weaves of circular knitting and flat knitting can be plain stitch, rib weave, double rib weave, double reverse weave, tuck weave, float weave, lace weave, plating weave, half furrow weave, etc., without any special limitation . The warp knitted fabric can be single bar warp flat weave, single bar warp satin weave, double bar warp velvet weave, double bar warp velvet-warp flat weave, back pile weave, jacquard weave, etc., without special limitation. Among these, circular knitted fabrics are more preferable from the viewpoint of the pilling-resistant effect. In addition, both single-layer and multi-layer can be used, and the aforementioned multi-layer can be a double-layer or more-layer tissue.
作为优选,本发明的面料根据GB/T 4802.2:2008标准,其抗起毛起球性为3级以上,和/或根据JIS L 1096:2010 E法标准,其耐磨性为3万回以上。Preferably, the fabric of the present invention has a pilling resistance of level 3 or above according to the GB/T 4802.2:2008 standard, and/or has an abrasion resistance of more than 30,000 times according to the JIS L 1096:2010 E method standard.
作为优选,本发明的短纤纱在面料的至少一面上露出,且露出率为30%以上。如果本发明的短纤纱在一面上的露出率低于30%的话,容易成球的纱线含量高,摩擦起球的几率增加,面料的抗起毛起球性有下降的趋势。Preferably, the spun yarn of the present invention is exposed on at least one side of the fabric, and the exposure rate is 30% or more. If the exposed rate of the spun yarn of the present invention is lower than 30%, the content of the yarn that is easy to form a ball is high, the probability of frictional pilling increases, and the pilling resistance of the fabric tends to decrease.
此外在不损伤面料的前提下,在后整理加工过程中,可以进行常规的染色加工、吸水加工、拒水加工等,还可以使用防紫外剂、抗菌剂、消臭剂、防虫剂、蓄光剂、反光剂、负离子发生剂等赋予功能的各种加工。In addition, on the premise of not damaging the fabric, in the finishing process, conventional dyeing processing, water absorption processing, water repellent processing, etc. can be carried out, and UV inhibitors, antibacterial agents, deodorants, insect repellents, and light storage agents can also be used. , Light reflective agent, anion generating agent, etc. to impart various processing functions.
以下结合实施例及比较例对本发明进一步说明,但本发明不限于此。本发明中所涉及的各物性参数按照如下方法进行测试。The present invention will be further described below in conjunction with examples and comparative examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. Each physical parameter involved in the present invention is tested according to the following method.
(1)合成纤维的弹性回复率以及混率(1) Elastic recovery rate and mixing ratio of synthetic fibers
A.取样A. Sampling
根据需要选择①或②进行取样:Select ① or ② for sampling as needed:
①直接选取5cm长的短纤纱5根,解捻,挑出30mm以上的短纤维作为待测试样品,根数记为X;①Directly select 5 spun yarns with a length of 5 cm, untwist them, pick out spun fibers over 30 mm as samples to be tested, and record the number of spun yarns as X;
②根据JIS L 1030-1:2012标准判断出构成面料的纱线的种类,将含有合成纤维的短纤纱拆解出来,取5cm长的短纤纱5根并解捻,挑出30mm以上的短纤维作为待测试样品,根数记为X;② According to the JIS L 1030-1:2012 standard, judge the type of yarns that make up the fabric, disassemble the spun yarns containing synthetic fibers, take 5 spun yarns with a length of 5 cm and untwist them, and pick out the spun yarns with a length of 30 mm or more. Short fiber is used as the sample to be tested, and the number of fibers is marked as X;
B.测试设备B. Test equipment
在连有orientec打印机(型号AR-6600-7)的RTC-1225A型拉伸机(INTEC CO.,LTD制)上选用EXTENSION CYCLE TEST程序测试样本的拉伸回复,设定隔距20mm、伸长率10%、拉伸速度20mm/min;On the RTC-1225A stretching machine (manufactured by INTEC CO., LTD) connected with an orientec printer (model AR-6600-7), the EXTENSION CYCLE TEST program is used to test the tensile recovery of the sample, and the interval is set to 20mm, and the elongation Rate 10%, stretching speed 20mm/min;
C.测试以及计算C. Test and calculation
从步骤A的待测样品中任意选取1根短纤维,将其在伸直、无伸长的状态下夹持到拉伸机的上下夹之间并按下测试按钮,拉伸至伸长率10%时回复,同时自动画出第1根曲 线。1分钟后随即调整画图的原点,使设备画图指针位于毫米坐标纸的起点处,重复上述拉伸回复的测试步骤,画出第2根曲线。一共测试10回,得到10根曲线,如附图1所示,在毫米坐标纸,a为伸长部长度,b为回复部长度,最长曲线的横向长度记为a+b。根据如下公式计算出单纤维拉伸回复10回后弹性回复率:弹性回复率=[b/(a+b)]×100%。按照同样的方法测完所有的待测样品,记录所有单纤维的弹性回复率并将弹性回复率在50%以上的所有数据取平均值,作为本发明合成纤维拉伸回复10回后弹性回复率。统计出弹性回复率在50%以上的根数并记为f1,根据如下公式计算出合成纤维的混率:混率=(f1/X)×100%。Randomly select a short fiber from the sample to be tested in step A, clamp it between the upper and lower clamps of the stretching machine in a straightened and non-elongated state, press the test button, and stretch to the elongation Recover at 10%, and draw the first curve automatically at the same time. Immediately after 1 minute, adjust the origin of the drawing so that the drawing pointer of the device is at the starting point of the millimeter coordinate paper, repeat the above test steps of stretch recovery, and draw the second curve. A total of 10 tests were performed and 10 curves were obtained. As shown in Figure 1, on the millimeter coordinate paper, a is the length of the elongated part, b is the length of the restored part, and the horizontal length of the longest curve is recorded as a+b. Calculate the elastic recovery rate of the single fiber after 10 times of stretch recovery according to the following formula: elastic recovery rate=[b/(a+b)]×100%. Measure all the samples to be tested according to the same method, record the elastic recovery rate of all single fibers and take the average value of all data with elastic recovery rate above 50%, as the elastic recovery rate after 10 times of stretch recovery of the synthetic fiber of the present invention . The number of fibers whose elastic recovery rate is above 50% is counted and recorded as f1, and the mixing ratio of the synthetic fibers is calculated according to the following formula: mixing ratio=(f1/X)×100%.
(2)短纤纱的混率(2) Mixing ratio of spun yarn
在面料中标记出一个完整的组织循环,并沿着该组织循环的边缘剪取样布一块(如果一个完整的组织循环小于5cm×5cm的面积的话,则剪取5cm×5cm大小的样布一块),拆解出所有纱线并称重记为m。根据JIS L 1030-1:2012标准判断出构成面料的纱线的种类,将含有合成纤维的短纤纱区分出来。按照前记合成纤维的弹性回复率的测试方法,判断短纤纱中是否含有弹性回复率50%以上的合成纤维。将含有弹性回复率50%以上的合成纤维的短纤纱称重并记为m1,按照如下公式计算出面料中短纤纱的混率,混率=(m1/m)×100%。Mark a complete tissue loop in the fabric, and cut a piece of sample cloth along the edge of the tissue loop (if a complete tissue loop is less than 5cm x 5cm, cut a piece of 5cm x 5cm sample fabric) , disassemble all the yarns and weigh them as m. According to the JIS L 1030-1:2012 standard, the type of yarn constituting the fabric is judged, and the spun yarn containing synthetic fibers is distinguished. According to the test method of the elastic recovery rate of the aforementioned synthetic fibers, it is judged whether the spun yarn contains synthetic fibers with an elastic recovery rate of 50% or more. The spun yarn containing synthetic fibers with an elastic recovery rate of more than 50% is weighed and recorded as m1, and the mixing ratio of the spun yarn in the fabric is calculated according to the following formula, mixing ratio=(m1/m)×100%.
(3)结节强度(3) Nodule strength
根据JIS L 1015:2010标准进行测试。Tested according to JIS L 1015:2010 standard.
(4)抗起毛起球性(4) Anti-pilling
根据GB/T 4802.2:2008标准进行测试。Tested according to GB/T 4802.2:2008 standard.
(5)耐磨性(5) Abrasion resistance
根据JIS L 1096:2010标准(E法)进行测试。Tested according to JIS L 1096:2010 standard (E method).
其中,首次设定测定回数为2万回,2万回后观察面料的磨损情况。若面料出现破损,则停止测试,并判定耐磨性为1万回;若面料未出现破损(机织物:两根纱线以上破断、针织物:出现破洞),则继续测试。继续测试时,设定测试回数为1万回,1万回后观察面料的磨损情况。若面料出现破损,则停止测试,并判定耐磨性为2万回;若面料未出现两根纱线以上的破损,则继续测试。继续测试时,设定测试回数为1万回,1万回后观察面料的磨损情况,若面料出现破损,则停止测试,并判定耐磨性为3万回。按照每1万回的频度逐步确认面料的磨损情况,直至面料出现破损方停止。累 计测试回数达到10万回时,10万回后观察面料的磨损情况,若面料出现破损,则判定耐磨性为9万回;若面料未出现破损,则判定耐磨性为10万回以上。Among them, the number of times of measurement is set to 20,000 for the first time, and the wear of the fabric is observed after 20,000 times. If the fabric is damaged, stop the test and determine the abrasion resistance as 10,000 times; if the fabric is not damaged (woven fabric: more than two yarns are broken, knitted fabric: holes appear), continue the test. When continuing the test, set the number of test times to 10,000, and observe the wear of the fabric after 10,000 times. If the fabric is damaged, stop the test and determine the abrasion resistance as 20,000 times; if the fabric is not damaged by more than two yarns, continue the test. When continuing the test, set the number of test times to 10,000 times. After 10,000 times, observe the wear of the fabric. If the fabric is damaged, stop the test and determine the wear resistance as 30,000 times. Gradually confirm the wear of the fabric at a frequency of every 10,000 times, and stop until the fabric is damaged. When the cumulative number of tests reaches 100,000 times, observe the wear of the fabric after 100,000 times. If the fabric is damaged, it is judged that the wear resistance is 90,000 times; if the fabric is not damaged, it is judged that the wear resistance is more than 100,000 times .
(6)短纤纱在一面上的露出率(6) Exposure rate of spun yarn on one side
在面料的一面上确定出两个完整组织循环。先根据JIS L 1030-1:2012标准判断出其中一个循环中所有纱线的种类,将含有合成纤维的短纤纱区分出来,并根据前记合成纤维的弹性回复率的测试方法,判断短纤纱中是否含有弹性回复率50%以上的合成纤维,确定出这种短纤纱在循环中的具体位置。接着使用数码显微镜(基恩士公司制)将另一个完整组织循环拍摄下来并用A4纸打印出来(如数码显微镜的最小倍率无法拍摄完整的组织循环,则使用数码相机拍摄),然后用剪刀剪去多余的部分,只留下一个完整组织循环,称重并记为G。根据前面确认的前记短纤纱在循环中的具体位置,将打印纸上的相应部分剪下称重并记为g1,按照如下公式计算出短纤纱的露出率,露出率=(g1/G)×100%。Identify two full weave loops on one side of the fabric. First, according to the JIS L 1030-1:2012 standard, determine the types of all the yarns in one of the cycles, distinguish the spun yarns containing synthetic fibers, and judge the staple fibers according to the test method of the elastic recovery rate of synthetic fibers mentioned above. Whether the yarn contains synthetic fibers with an elastic recovery rate of more than 50%, determines the specific position of the spun yarn in the cycle. Then use a digital microscope (manufactured by Keyence Corporation) to take another complete tissue cycle and print it out on A4 paper (if the minimum magnification of the digital microscope cannot capture the complete tissue cycle, use a digital camera to take pictures), and then cut it out with scissors The excess part, leaving only one complete tissue cycle, was weighed and recorded as G. According to the specific position of the aforementioned spun yarn in the circulation confirmed above, the corresponding part on the printing paper is cut out and weighed and recorded as g1, and the exposure rate of the spun yarn is calculated according to the following formula, the exposure rate=(g1/ G) x 100%.
(7)刚软度(7) Rigidity and softness
根据JIS L 1096:2010标准(A法)进行测试。数值越小,柔软性越好。Tested according to JIS L 1096:2010 standard (A method). The smaller the numerical value, the better the softness.
实施例1Example 1
选用纤度1.67dtex、长度38mm、结节强度3.1cN/dtex的PBT原棉(东丽株式会社制)作为原料,依次经过开清棉、梳棉、并条、粗纱、赛络紧密纺、络筒工序,其中,并条工序:2次并条、牵伸倍率8倍、定量16g/5m,粗纱工序:牵伸倍率9倍、捻系数0.6、定量3.5g/10m,赛络紧密纺工序:回转数12500rpm、牵伸倍率49倍、捻系数3.7、吸口平均负压2300Pa,得到本发明的PBT含量为100wt%的40英支短纤纱。PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Co., Ltd.) with a fineness of 1.67dtex, a length of 38mm, and a knot strength of 3.1cN/dtex was selected as the raw material, and it went through the processes of opening and cleaning, carding, drawing, roving, siro compact spinning, and winding in sequence. , among which, drawing process: 2 times drawing, draft ratio 8 times, basis weight 16g/5m, roving process: draft ratio 9 times, twist coefficient 0.6, basis weight 3.5g/10m, Siro compact spinning process: number of revolutions 12500rpm, drafting ratio 49 times, twist coefficient 3.7, suction port average negative pressure 2300Pa, obtain the PBT content of the present invention is 40 British count spun yarns of 100wt%.
在圆编机上,采用上述制得的短纤纱,在平针组织、横密45纵行/inch×纵密62横列/inch条件下进行编织得到坯布,然后经过精练(90℃×20分钟)→染色(分散染料DK9Z3,浙江龙盛染料化工有限公司制,120℃×30分钟)→后整理(吸湿排汗整理剂HS-TC-18,珠海华大浩宏化工有限公司制;用量10owf%,浴中加工80℃×20分钟)→烘干(150℃×1分钟)→定型(170℃×1分钟),得到本发明的针织面料,各项性能参数见表1。On the circular knitting machine, use the above-mentioned spun yarns to knit under the conditions of plain stitch, 45 wales/inch x 62 wales/inch to obtain gray cloth, and then scouring (90°C×20 minutes) → Dyeing (disperse dye DK9Z3, manufactured by Zhejiang Longsheng Dyestuff Chemical Co., Ltd., 120°C×30 minutes) → Finishing (moisture-wicking finishing agent HS-TC-18, manufactured by Zhuhai Huada Haohong Chemical Co., Ltd.; dosage 10owf% , processing in the bath (80°C × 20 minutes)→drying (150°C×1 minute)→setting (170°C×1 minute) to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention, and the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
实施例2Example 2
选用纤度1.67dtex、长度38mm、结节强度3.2cN/dtex的PTT原棉(上海德福伦化纤有限公司制)作为原料,其余同实施例1,得到本发明的PTT含量为100wt%的40英 支短纤纱及针织面料,各项性能参数见表1。Select the PTT raw cotton (made by Shanghai Defulun Chemical Fiber Co., Ltd.) of fineness 1.67dtex, length 38mm, knot strength 3.2cN/dtex as raw material, all the other are the same as embodiment 1, obtain the PTT content of the present invention and be 40 British branch of 100wt% The performance parameters of spun yarn and knitted fabric are shown in Table 1.
实施例3Example 3
选用纤度1.70dtex、长度38mm、结节强度5.5cN/dtex的PBT原棉(东丽株式会社制)作为原料,其余同实施例1,得到本发明的PBT含量为100wt%的40英支短纤纱及针织面料,各项性能参数见表1。Select the PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Corporation) of fineness 1.70dtex, length 38mm, knot strength 5.5cN/dtex as raw material, all the other are the same as embodiment 1, obtain the PBT content of the present invention and be 40 British count spun yarns of 100wt% And knitted fabrics, the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
实施例4Example 4
选用纤度1.70dtex、长度38mm、结节强度6.5cN/dtex的PBT原棉(东丽株式会社制)作为原料,其余同实施例1,得到本发明的PBT含量为100wt%的40英支短纤纱及针织面料,各项性能参数见表1。Select the PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Co., Ltd.) of fineness 1.70dtex, length 38mm, knot strength 6.5cN/dtex as raw material, all the other are the same as embodiment 1, obtain the PBT content of the present invention and be 40 British count spun yarns of 100wt% And knitted fabrics, the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
实施例5Example 5
选用纤度1.65dtex、长度38mm、结节强度2.0cN/dtex的PBT原棉(东丽株式会社制)作为原料,其余同实施例1,得到本发明的PBT含量为100wt%的40英支短纤纱及针织面料,各项性能参数见表1。Select the PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Corporation) of fineness 1.65dtex, length 38mm, knot strength 2.0cN/dtex as raw material, all the other are the same as embodiment 1, obtain the PBT content of the present invention and be 40 British count spun yarns of 100wt% And knitted fabrics, the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
实施例6Example 6
选用纤度1.65dtex、长度38mm、结节强度1.5cN/dtex的PBT原棉(东丽株式会社制)作为原料,其余同实施例1,得到本发明的PBT含量为100wt%的40英支短纤纱及针织面料,各项性能参数见表1。Select the PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Co., Ltd.) of fineness 1.65dtex, length 38mm, knot strength 1.5cN/dtex as raw material, all the other are the same as embodiment 1, obtain the PBT content of the present invention and be 40 British count spun yarns of 100wt% And knitted fabrics, the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
实施例7Example 7
选用纤度0.50dtex、长度35mm、结节强度3.1cN/dtex的PBT原棉(东丽株式会社制)作为原料,赛络紧密纺捻系数4.2,其余同实施例1,得到本发明的PBT含量为100wt%的40英支短纤纱及针织面料,各项性能参数见表1。Select the PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Co., Ltd.) of fineness 0.50dtex, length 35mm, knot strength 3.1cN/dtex as raw material, siro compact spinning twist coefficient 4.2, all the other are the same as embodiment 1, obtain the PBT content of the present invention to be 100wt % 40 British count spun yarn and knitted fabrics, the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
实施例8Example 8
选用纤度4.00dtex、长度110mm、结节强度3.1cN/dtex的PBT原棉(东丽株式会社制)作为原料,赛络紧密纺捻系数3.0,其余同实施例1,得到本发明的PBT含量为100wt%的40英支短纤纱及针织面料,各项性能参数见表1。Select the PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Co., Ltd.) of fineness 4.00dtex, length 110mm, knot strength 3.1cN/dtex as raw material, siro compact spinning twist coefficient 3.0, all the other are with embodiment 1, obtain the PBT content of the present invention to be 100wt % 40 British count spun yarn and knitted fabrics, the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
实施例9Example 9
选用纤度1.67dtex、长度38mm、结节强度3.1cN/dtex的PBT原棉(东丽株式会社制)作为原料,赛络紧密纺捻系数6.0,其余同实施例1,得到本发明的PBT含量为100wt%的40英支短纤纱及针织面料,各项性能参数见表1。Select the PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Co., Ltd.) of fineness 1.67dtex, length 38mm, knot strength 3.1cN/dtex as raw material, siro compact spinning twist coefficient 6.0, all the other are with embodiment 1, obtain the PBT content of the present invention to be 100wt % 40 British count spun yarn and knitted fabrics, the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
实施例10Example 10
选用纤度1.67dtex、长度38mm、结节强度3.1cN/dtex的PBT原棉(东丽株式会社制)作为原料,赛络紧密纺捻系数2.0,其余同实施例1,得到本发明的PBT含量为100wt%的40英支短纤纱及针织面料,各项性能参数见表1。Select the PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Co., Ltd.) of fineness 1.67dtex, length 38mm, knot strength 3.1cN/dtex as raw material, siro compact spinning twist coefficient 2.0, all the other are with embodiment 1, obtain the PBT content of the present invention to be 100wt % 40 British count spun yarn and knitted fabrics, the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
实施例11Example 11
选用纤度1.67dtex、长度38mm、结节强度3.1cN/dtex的PBT原棉(东丽株式会社制)形成的棉条作为棉条A,巴西棉/美国棉(重量比50:50)形成的棉条作为棉条B,棉条A和棉条B按照65:35的重量比进行3回并条,其余同实施例1,得到本发明的PBT含量为65wt%的40英支短纤纱及针织面料,各项性能参数见表1。A sliver made of PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Co., Ltd.) with a fineness of 1.67dtex, a length of 38mm, and a knot strength of 3.1cN/dtex was selected as sliver A, and a sliver made of Brazilian cotton/American cotton (weight ratio 50:50) As sliver B, sliver A and sliver B are drawn 3 times according to the weight ratio of 65:35, and the rest are the same as in Example 1 to obtain the 40-count spun yarn and knitted fabric with a PBT content of 65wt% of the present invention , the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
实施例12Example 12
选用纤度1.56dtex、长度38mm、结节强度3.9cN/dtex的PBT原棉(东丽株式会社制)形成的棉条作为棉条A,巴西棉/美国棉(重量比50:50)形成的棉条作为棉条B,棉条A和棉条B按照45:55的重量比进行3回并条,其余同实施例1,得到本发明的PBT含量为45wt%的40英支短纤纱及针织面料,各项性能参数见表1。A sliver made of PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Co., Ltd.) with a fineness of 1.56dtex, a length of 38mm, and a knot strength of 3.9cN/dtex was selected as sliver A, and a sliver made of Brazilian cotton/American cotton (weight ratio 50:50) As sliver B, sliver A and sliver B are drawn 3 times according to the weight ratio of 45:55, and the rest are the same as in Example 1 to obtain the 40-count spun yarn and knitted fabric with a PBT content of 45wt% of the present invention , the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
实施例13Example 13
选用纤度1.67dtex、长度38mm、结节强度3.1cN/dtex的PBT原棉(东丽株式会社制)作为原料,依次经过开清棉、梳棉、并条、粗纱、环锭纺、络筒工序,其中,粗纱工序:牵伸倍率8倍、定量4g/10m,环锭纺工序:牵伸倍率28倍,其余同实施例1,得到本发明的PBT含量为100wt%的40英支短纤纱及针织面料,各项性能参数见表1。PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Co., Ltd.) with a fineness of 1.67dtex, a length of 38mm, and a knot strength of 3.1cN/dtex was selected as the raw material. Wherein, the roving process: the draft ratio is 8 times, the quantitative 4g/10m, the ring spinning process: the draft ratio is 28 times, all the other are the same as in Example 1, and the PBT content of the present invention is 100wt% 40 British count spun yarn and The performance parameters of knitted fabrics are shown in Table 1.
实施例14Example 14
选用纤度1.67dtex、长度38mm、结节强度3.1cN/dtex的PBT原棉(东丽株式会社制)作为原料,依次经过开清棉、梳棉、并条、粗纱、赛络纺、络筒工序,其中,赛络纺工序:牵伸倍率49倍,其余同实施例1,得到本发明的PBT含量为100wt%的40英支短纤纱及针织面料,各项性能参数见表1。PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Co., Ltd.) with a fineness of 1.67dtex, a length of 38mm, and a knot strength of 3.1cN/dtex was selected as the raw material, and it went through the processes of opening and cleaning, carding, drawing, roving, siro spinning, and winding in sequence. Among them, the siro spinning process: the drafting ratio is 49 times, and the rest are the same as in Example 1 to obtain the 40-count spun yarn and knitted fabric with a PBT content of 100wt% of the present invention, and the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
实施例15Example 15
选用纤度1.67dtex、长度38mm、结节强度3.1cN/dtex的PBT原棉(东丽株式会社制)作为原料,依次经过开清棉、梳棉、并条、粗纱、紧密纺、络筒工序,其中,粗纱工序:牵伸倍率8倍、定量4g/10m,紧密纺工序:牵伸倍率28倍,其余同实施例1,得到本发明的PBT含量为100wt%的40英支短纤纱及针织面料,各项性能参数见表1。Select PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Co., Ltd.) with a fineness of 1.67dtex, a length of 38mm, and a knot strength of 3.1cN/dtex as a raw material, and successively go through the processes of opening and cleaning, carding, drawing, roving, compact spinning, and winding. , roving process: drafting ratio 8 times, quantitative 4g/10m, compact spinning process: drafting ratio 28 times, all the other are with embodiment 1, obtain PBT content of the present invention and be 40 British count spun yarns and knitted fabrics of 100wt% , the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
实施例16Example 16
选用纤度1.67dtex、长度38mm、结节强度3.1cN/dtex的PBT原棉(东丽株式会社制)作为原料,依次经过开清棉、梳棉、并条、涡流纺工序,其中,并条工序:3次并条、牵伸倍率8倍、定量11g/5m,涡流纺工序:总牵伸倍率150倍、速度300m/min,其余同实施例1,得到本发明的PBT含量为100wt%的40英支短纤纱及针织面料,各项性能参数见表1。Select PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Co., Ltd.) with a fineness of 1.67dtex, a length of 38mm, and a knot strength of 3.1cN/dtex as a raw material, and successively go through the processes of opening and cleaning, carding, drawing, and eddy current spinning, wherein the drawing process: 3 draw frames, 8 times of drafting ratio, quantitative 11g/5m, vortex spinning process: 150 times of total drafting ratio, 300m/min of speed, all the other are the same as embodiment 1, obtain the PBT content of the present invention and be 40 inches of 100wt%. The performance parameters of spun yarn and knitted fabric are shown in Table 1.
实施例17Example 17
选用实施例1制得的短纤纱与30英支棉纱进行1:1配列交编,染色工序:先染PBT纤维(分散染料DK9Z3,浙江龙盛染料化工有限公司制,120℃×30分钟),再染棉纤维(活性染料RK901,无锡先进化药化工有限公司制,60℃×60min),其余同实施例1,得到本发明的针织面料,各项性能参数见表1。Select the spun yarn obtained in Example 1 and 30 English count cotton yarn for 1:1 matching and interweaving, dyeing process: first dye PBT fiber (disperse dye DK9Z3, manufactured by Zhejiang Longsheng Dyestuff Chemical Co., Ltd., 120 ° C × 30 minutes) , and then dyed cotton fiber (reactive dye RK901, manufactured by Wuxi Advanced Chemical Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd., 60° C. × 60 min), and the rest were the same as in Example 1 to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention. The performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
实施例18Example 18
选用实施例1制得的短纤纱与30英支棉纱进行1:2配列交编,其余同实施例17,得到本发明的针织面料,各项性能参数见表1。Select the spun yarn prepared in Example 1 and 30 English count cotton yarns for 1:2 interknitting, and the rest are the same as in Example 17 to obtain the knitted fabric of the present invention. The performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
实施例19Example 19
选用纤度1.56dtex、长度38mm、结节强度4.5cN/dtex的PET原棉(东丽株式会社制)作为原料,其余同实施例1,得到本发明的PBT含量为100wt%的40英支短纤纱及针织面料,各项性能参数见表1。Select the PET raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Co., Ltd.) of fineness 1.56dtex, length 38mm, knot strength 4.5cN/dtex as raw material, all the other are the same as embodiment 1, obtain the PBT content of the present invention and be 40 British count spun yarns of 100wt% And knitted fabrics, the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
实施例20Example 20
选用纤度1.67dtex、长度38mm、结节强度3.1cN/dtex的PBT原棉(东丽株式会社制)作为原料,赛络紧密纺捻系数1.8,其余同实施例1,得到本发明的PBT含量为100wt%的40英支短纤纱及针织面料,各项性能参数见表1。Select the PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Co., Ltd.) of fineness 1.67dtex, length 38mm, knot strength 3.1cN/dtex as raw material, siro compact spinning twist coefficient 1.8, all the other are with embodiment 1, obtain the PBT content of the present invention to be 100wt % 40 British count spun yarn and knitted fabrics, the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
实施例21Example 21
选用纤度1.56dtex、长度38mm、结节强度4.5cN/dtex的PET原棉(东丽株式会社制)作为原料A和纤度1.67dtex、长度38mm、结节强度3.1cN/dtex的PBT原棉(东丽株式会社制)作为原料B,原料A和原料B按照65:35的重量比依次经过开清棉、梳棉、并条、粗纱、环锭纺、络筒工序。其中,并条工序:3次并条,其余同实施例1,得到本发明的PET含量为65wt%、PBT含量为35wt%的40英支短纤纱及针织面料,各项性能参数见表1。Select the PET raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Co., Ltd.) with a fineness of 1.56dtex, a length of 38mm, and a knot strength of 4.5cN/dtex as raw material A and a PBT raw cotton with a fineness of 1.67dtex, a length of 38mm, and a knot strength of 3.1cN/dtex (made by Toray Co., Ltd. Co., Ltd.) As raw material B, raw material A and raw material B are sequentially passed through the processes of opening and cleaning, carding, drawing, roving, ring spinning, and winding at a weight ratio of 65:35. Wherein, the drawing process: 3 times of drawing, the rest are the same as in Example 1, and the PET content of the present invention is 65wt%, and the PBT content is 35wt%. The 40-count spun yarn and the knitted fabric, the performance parameters are shown in Table 1 .
比较例1Comparative example 1
选用纤度1.56dtex、长度38mm、结节强度4.5cN/dtex的PET原棉(中国石化仪征化纤有限责任公司制)作为原料,其余同实施例1,得到PET含量为100wt%的40英支短纤纱及针织面料,各项性能参数见表1。Select the PET raw cotton (manufactured by Sinopec Yizheng Chemical Fiber Co., Ltd.) with a fineness of 1.56dtex, a length of 38mm, and a knot strength of 4.5cN/dtex as a raw material, and the rest are the same as in Example 1 to obtain a 40-count spun yarn with a PET content of 100wt%. And knitted fabrics, the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
比较例2Comparative example 2
选用纤度1.56dtex、长度38mm、结节强度3.9cN/dtex的PBT原棉(东丽株式会社制)形成的棉条作为棉条A,巴西棉/美国棉(重量比50:50)形成的棉条作为棉条B,棉条A和棉条B按照35:65的重量比进行3回并条,其余同实施例1,得到PET含量为35wt%的40英支短纤纱及针织面料,各项性能参数见表1。A sliver made of PBT raw cotton (manufactured by Toray Co., Ltd.) with a fineness of 1.56dtex, a length of 38mm, and a knot strength of 3.9cN/dtex was selected as sliver A, and a sliver made of Brazilian cotton/American cotton (weight ratio 50:50) As sliver B, sliver A and sliver B were drawn 3 times according to the weight ratio of 35:65, and the rest were the same as in Example 1 to obtain a 40-count spun yarn and a knitted fabric with a PET content of 35wt%. The performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
表1Table 1
Figure PCTCN2022118881-appb-000001
Figure PCTCN2022118881-appb-000001
根据上表,According to the above table,
(1)由实施例1和实施例2可知,同等条件下,由弹性回复率80%、结节强度(1) From Example 1 and Example 2, it can be seen that under the same conditions, 80% of the elastic recovery rate and nodular strength
3.1cN/dtex的PBT短纤维形成的短纤纱和由弹性回复率82%、结节强度3.1cN/dtex PBT short fiber formed spun yarn and elastic recovery rate of 82%, knot strength
3.2cN/dtex的PTT短纤维形成的短纤纱相比,前者制得的面料的抗起毛起球性和耐磨性均优于后者,但刚软度数值比后者略高,即柔软性略不及后者。Compared with the spun yarn formed by the PTT staple fiber of 3.2cN/dtex, the anti-pilling and abrasion resistance of the fabric made by the former are better than the latter, but the stiffness value is slightly higher than the latter, that is, soft Sex is slightly less than the latter.
(2)由实施例3和实施例4可知,同等条件下,由结节强度5.5cN/dtex的PBT短纤维形成的短纤纱和由结节强度6.5cN/dtex的PBT短纤维形成的短纤纱相比,前者制得的面料的抗起毛起球性优于后者,但两者制得的面料的耐磨性以及柔软性(刚软度)均相当。(2) From Example 3 and Example 4, it can be seen that under the same conditions, the spun yarn formed by the PBT staple fiber of the knot strength 5.5cN/dtex and the staple yarn formed by the PBT staple fiber of the knot strength 6.5cN/dtex Compared with fiber yarn, the pilling resistance of the fabric made by the former is better than that of the latter, but the wear resistance and softness (stiffness and softness) of the fabric made by both are equivalent.
(3)由实施例5和实施例6可知,同等条件下,由结节强度2.0cN/dtex的PBT短纤维形成的短纤纱和由结节强度1.5cN/dtex的PBT短纤维形成的短纤纱相比,前者制得的面料的耐磨性优于后者,但两者制得的面料的抗起毛起球性以及柔软性(刚软度)均相当。(3) From Example 5 and Example 6, it can be seen that under the same conditions, the spun yarn formed by the PBT staple fiber of the knot strength 2.0cN/dtex and the staple yarn formed by the PBT staple fiber of the knot strength 1.5cN/dtex Compared with fiber yarn, the wear resistance of the fabric made by the former is better than that of the latter, but the pilling resistance and softness (stiffness and softness) of the fabric made by both are equivalent.
(4)由实施例1和实施例15可知,同等条件下,通过赛络紧密纺法制得的短纤纱与通过紧密纺法制得的短纤纱相比,前者制得的面料的抗起毛起球性、耐磨性均优于后者,但刚软度数值比后者略高,即柔软性略不及后者。(4) From Example 1 and Example 15, it can be seen that under the same conditions, compared with the spun yarn made by the compact spinning method, the anti-fluffing of the fabric made by the former is Sphericality and wear resistance are better than the latter, but the value of rigidity and softness is slightly higher than the latter, that is, the softness is slightly lower than the latter.
(5)由实施例1和实施例16可知,同等条件下,通过赛络紧密纺法制得的短纤纱与通过喷气涡流纺法制得的短纤纱相比,前者制得的面料的抗起毛起球性虽然没有后者好,但手感比后者好,另外,两者制得的面料的耐磨性相当。(5) From Example 1 and Example 16, it can be seen that under the same conditions, compared with the spun yarn made by air-jet vortex spinning, the spun yarn made by the siro compact spinning method has a lower fluff resistance of the fabric made by the former. Although the pilling property is not as good as the latter, the hand feeling is better than the latter. In addition, the wear resistance of the fabrics made by the two is equivalent.
(6)由实施例17和实施例18可知,同等条件下,PBT短纤纱露出率为40%的针织面料与PBT短纤纱露出率为28%的针织面料相比,前者的抗起毛起球性和耐磨性均优于后者,而且刚软度数值比后者略低,即柔软性略优于后者。(6) From Example 17 and Example 18, it can be seen that under the same conditions, the knitted fabric with a PBT spun yarn exposure rate of 40% is compared with the knitted fabric with a PBT spun yarn exposure rate of 28%. Sphericality and wear resistance are better than the latter, and the value of stiffness and softness is slightly lower than the latter, that is, the softness is slightly better than the latter.
(7)由实施例10和实施例20可知,同等条件下,捻系数为2.0的短纤纱与捻系数为1.8的短纤纱相比,前者制得的面料的抗起毛起球性、耐磨性均优于后者,但刚软度数值比后者略高,即柔软性略不及后者。(7) From Example 10 and Example 20, it can be seen that under the same conditions, the spun yarn with a twist coefficient of 2.0 is compared with the spun yarn with a twist coefficient of 1.8. The abrasiveness is better than the latter, but the hardness and softness value is slightly higher than the latter, that is, the softness is slightly lower than the latter.
(8)由比较例1和实施例19可知,同等条件下,由弹性回复率40%的PET短纤维形成的短纤纱和由弹性回复率55%的PET短纤维形成的短纤纱相比,前者制得的面料的抗起毛起球性只有2级,而且耐磨性也不及后者。(8) From Comparative Example 1 and Example 19, it can be seen that under the same conditions, the spun yarn formed by PET staple fibers with an elastic recovery rate of 40% is compared with the spun yarn formed by PET staple fibers with an elastic recovery rate of 55%. , the pilling resistance of the fabric made by the former is only level 2, and the abrasion resistance is not as good as the latter.
(9)由比较例2和实施例12可知,同等条件下,合成纤维(弹性回复率65%)含量为35wt%的短纤纱与合成纤维(弹性回复率65%)含量为45wt%的短纤纱的短纤 纱相比,前者制得的面料的抗起毛起球性只有2级,而且耐磨性也只有2万回。(9) From Comparative Example 2 and Example 12, it can be seen that under the same conditions, the synthetic fiber (elastic recovery rate 65%) content is 35wt% spun yarn and the synthetic fiber (elastic recovery rate 65%) content is 45wt% staple yarn Compared with the spun yarn of the spun yarn, the anti-pilling property of the fabric made by the former is only level 2, and the abrasion resistance is only 20,000 times.

Claims (10)

  1. 短纤纱,其特征是:所述短纤纱中含有拉伸回复10回后弹性回复率为50%以上的合成纤维,且所述合成纤维的含量为40wt%以上。The spun yarn is characterized in that: the spun yarn contains synthetic fibers with an elastic recovery rate of more than 50% after stretching and recovering 10 times, and the content of the synthetic fibers is more than 40 wt%.
  2. 根据权利要求1所述短纤纱,其特征是:所述合成纤维的结节强度为2.0~6.0cN/dtex。The spun yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that: the knot strength of the synthetic fibers is 2.0-6.0 cN/dtex.
  3. 根据权利要求1或2所述短纤纱,其特征是:所述合成纤维为聚酯纤维。The spun yarn according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: the synthetic fibers are polyester fibers.
  4. 根据权利要求3所述短纤纱,其特征是:所述聚酯纤维为聚对苯二甲酸乙二醇酯纤维和/或聚对苯二甲酸丁二醇酯纤维。The spun yarn according to claim 3, wherein the polyester fiber is polyethylene terephthalate fiber and/or polybutylene terephthalate fiber.
  5. 根据权利要求1或2所述短纤纱,其特征是:所述短纤纱的捻系数为2.0~6.0,且构成短纤纱的单根短纤维的纤度为0.5~4.0dtex、长度为35~110mm。The spun yarn according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: the twist coefficient of the spun yarn is 2.0 to 6.0, and the fineness of a single short fiber constituting the spun yarn is 0.5 to 4.0 dtex and the length is 35 ~110mm.
  6. 根据权利要求1或2所述短纤纱,其特征是:所述短纤纱是通过赛络紧密纺、赛络纺或紧密纺得到的。The spun yarn according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: the spun yarn is obtained by siro compact spinning, siro spinning or compact spinning.
  7. 根据权利要求1或2所述短纤纱,其特征是:所述短纤纱是通过喷气涡流纺得到的。The spun yarn according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that: the spun yarn is obtained by air-jet vortex spinning.
  8. 一种40wt%以上使用权利要求1~7中任一项所述短纤纱制得的面料。A fabric made by using the spun yarn described in any one of claims 1-7 in an amount of more than 40 wt%.
  9. 根据权利要求8所述面料,其特征是:根据GB/T 4802.2:2008标准,所述面料的抗起毛起球性为3级以上,和/或根据JIS L 1096:2010标准E法,所述面料的耐磨性为3万回以上。The fabric according to claim 8, characterized in that: according to the GB/T 4802.2:2008 standard, the pilling resistance of the fabric is above grade 3, and/or according to JIS L 1096:2010 standard E method, the The wear resistance of the fabric is more than 30,000 times.
  10. 根据权利要求8所述面料,其特征是:所述短纤纱在面料的至少一面上露出,且露出率为30%以上。The fabric according to claim 8, wherein the spun yarn is exposed on at least one side of the fabric, and the exposure rate is more than 30%.
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Citations (6)

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JPH11269731A (en) * 1998-03-19 1999-10-05 Asahi Chem Ind Co Ltd Composite yarn
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CN103003478A (en) * 2010-07-21 2013-03-27 纳幕尔杜邦公司 Mixed polyester yarns and articles made therefrom
CN104047103A (en) * 2013-03-15 2014-09-17 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 Knitted fabric, and production method and application thereof
CN105401317A (en) * 2016-01-06 2016-03-16 江苏工程职业技术学院 Processing method of wear-resisting antibacterial deodorization socks
CN111118680A (en) * 2019-08-26 2020-05-08 张昌录 High-elasticity wear-resistant fiber fabric

Patent Citations (6)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH11269731A (en) * 1998-03-19 1999-10-05 Asahi Chem Ind Co Ltd Composite yarn
CN1468332A (en) * 2000-10-06 2004-01-14 ������������ʽ���� Spun yarn
CN103003478A (en) * 2010-07-21 2013-03-27 纳幕尔杜邦公司 Mixed polyester yarns and articles made therefrom
CN104047103A (en) * 2013-03-15 2014-09-17 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 Knitted fabric, and production method and application thereof
CN105401317A (en) * 2016-01-06 2016-03-16 江苏工程职业技术学院 Processing method of wear-resisting antibacterial deodorization socks
CN111118680A (en) * 2019-08-26 2020-05-08 张昌录 High-elasticity wear-resistant fiber fabric

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