WO2022208394A1 - Agent démaquillant anti-bavures multiphase à base d'eau - Google Patents

Agent démaquillant anti-bavures multiphase à base d'eau Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022208394A1
WO2022208394A1 PCT/IB2022/052961 IB2022052961W WO2022208394A1 WO 2022208394 A1 WO2022208394 A1 WO 2022208394A1 IB 2022052961 W IB2022052961 W IB 2022052961W WO 2022208394 A1 WO2022208394 A1 WO 2022208394A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
cleansing composition
phase
cal
solubility parameter
layer
Prior art date
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PCT/IB2022/052961
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English (en)
Inventor
Zhi Li
Hy Si Bui
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from US17/217,735 external-priority patent/US11633332B2/en
Priority claimed from FR2107715A external-priority patent/FR3125222B1/fr
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2022208394A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022208394A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/03—Liquid compositions with two or more distinct layers

Definitions

  • This invention relates to make-up removal and cleansing composition provided in a multi-phase formula that provides visually and tactically desirable properties with natural ingredients and which provides effective cleansing and makeup removal.
  • Multiphase liquid cleansing compositions provide excellent aesthetic appearance and are very attractive for consumers and have been proposed for uses related to bath/shower, makeup removals, and hair.
  • a multi-phase liquid forms two or more visibly distinct phases.
  • the cleansing composition forms a visible single phase which separates and returns to the multiple visibly distinct phases.
  • Such compositions include one or more of emulsifying surfactants and polymers, and volatile silicone oils and other similar synthetic compositions, any or all of which can be irritating to skin or eyes.
  • US20160367959 provides a three-phase cosmetics composition in which one of the liquids comprises a triglyceride oil, another comprises a silicone oil, and a third liquid comprises a polyalkylene glycol.
  • EP 1593364 provides a three-phase cosmetics composition for keratin fibers especially for hair that includes an oily first phase, a second phase that contains an ethoxylated glyceryl fatty acid monoester, and a third phase that includes polyols.
  • WO 2014018543 provides a three- phase cosmetics composition for treating hair that includes an oil phase, a polyol phase, and a silicone phase.
  • KR20090004048 provides a three-phase cosmetics composition in which the bottom layer includes 1 to 10 parts by weight of water and 15 to 30 parts by weight of palm oil fatty acid polyoxyethylene glycerin, a middle layer includes 15 to 40 parts by weight of glycerin, and an upper layer includes 20 to 50 parts by weight of mineral oil.
  • KR20090004050 provides a four-phase cosmetics composition for cleansing in which the bottom layer includes 5-10 weight part of water and 15-30 weight part of palm oil fatty acid polyoxyethylene glycerol, the lower middle layer includes 10 to 20 parts by weight of glycerin, the upper middle layer includes 15 to 25 parts by weight of dimethicone, and the upper layer includes 10 to 30 parts by weight of mineral oil.
  • These various compositions provide some of the desired aesthetic benefits sought by consumers relating to the visual and tactile feel of multi-phase compositions, but none of them is "highly natural” or “natural.”
  • the instant invention overcomes the disadvantages of the art as pertains to make-up removing compositions that include ingredients that are primarily natural or nature-based in an aesthetically pleasing multi-phase formulation with a sharp phase interfaces and which allows easy make-up removal that is comparable to or improved over prior art compositions, and is not greasy, and includes little or no components that may be irritating to the skin or eyes.
  • the disclosure provides, in various embodiments, a cleansing composition, in particular useful for skin cleansing and for make-up removal.
  • the cleansing composition is a multi-phase composition that includes at least three distinct phase layers that include a first visually distinct phase layer comprising at least one cosmetic solvent having a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value that is greater than 15 cal. 1/3 . cm 2/3 , a second visually distinct phase layer comprising at least one cosmetic solvent having a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value less than 7.5 cal. 1/3 . cm 2/3 , and a third visually distinct phase layer comprising at least one cosmetic solvent having a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value that is between 8 and 10 cal. 1/3 . cm 2/3 .
  • the first visually distinct phase layer comprises at least one cationic surfactant present in the cleansing composition from about 0.02% to about 2%, and at least one inorganic salt present in the cleansing composition from about 0.1% to about 2%, all amounts by weight, based on the total weight of the cleansing composition.
  • the at least one cationic surfactant is an amino acid based cationic surfactant, and in some particular embodiments, the amino acid based cationic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of a derivative ethyl lauroyl arginate or a salt thereof, and ethyl cocoyl arginate or a salt thereof (PCA ethyl cocoyl arginate).
  • the composition further comprises at least one additional solvent/surfactant, in some embodiments a nonionic surfactant, selected from the group consisting of lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, and combinations thereof.
  • a nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, and combinations thereof.
  • the at least one inorganic salt is selected from the group consisting of sea salt, sodium chloride, magnesium chloride, calcium chloride, potassium chloride, magnesium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, and zinc pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, and other suitable mineral salts of sodium, calcium, magnesium, potassium, zinc, and combinations thereof.
  • the first visually distinct phase layer is present in the cleansing composition at about 20% to about 80%, by weight, based on the total weight of the cleansing composition.
  • the second visually distinct phase layer is present in the cleansing composition at about 5% to about 50%, by weight, based on the total weight of the cleansing composition.
  • the third visually distinct phase layer is present in the cleansing composition at about 5% to about 50%, by weight, based on the total weight of the cleansing composition.
  • the inventive cleansing composition demonstrates phase separation after shaking. In some embodiments, when agitated, the cleansing composition forms a milky single phase which separates after agitation into three or more visibly distinct phases in a maximum period of 24 hours. In some embodiments, the inventive cleansing composition demonstrates phase separation after shaking wherein after agitation is ceased, demonstrates slow initial phase separation to enable sufficient homogenous emulsion before dispensing. In some embodiments, the inventive cleansing composition demonstrates after agitation is ceased and there is a clear container wall with minimal liquid droplet visible to the eye wherein there are essentially no clinging or dragging of a layer on a container wall and there are no or minimal liquid droplets visible at any phase interface. In some embodiments, the cleansing composition demonstrates excellent ability to remove both long wear mascara and long wear foundation.
  • the at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent with a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value greater than 15 cal. 1/3 . crrr 2/3 may be selected from water, and water based solvents, including, but not limited to, glycerin and propanediol; nonionic surfactants; or combinations thereof.
  • the at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent with a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value less than 7.5 cal. 1/3 . cm 2/3 may be selected from oil, and oil based solvents, including but not limited to, dimethicone, isoparaffins, Isododecane, C15-19 ALKANE, undecane, tridecane, white mineral oil, linseed oil; or combinations thereof.
  • the at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent with a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value between 8 and 10 cal. 1/3 . cm 2/3 may be selected from oil, and oil based solvents, plasticizers, alcohol, and the like. In some embodiments, the at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent with a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value between 8 and 10 cal. 1/3 . cm 2/3 is selected from the group consisting of PPG-3 Methyl Ether, castor oil, triethyl citrate, diisopropyl adipate, and combinations thereof.
  • the cleansing composition includes:
  • phase layer that includes at least one cationic surfactant and at least one inorganic salt, such phase layer present in an amount, by weight of the cleansing composition in a range from about 20% to about 80% and includes at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent with a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value greater than 15 cal. 1/3 . cm 2/3 , the solvent selected from water, and water based solvents;
  • phase layer present in an amount, by weight of the cleansing composition in a range from about 5% to about 50% that includes at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent with a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value less than 7.5 cal. 1/3 . cm 2/3 , the solvent selected from the group consisting of oil, and oil based solvents;
  • phase layer present in an amount, by weight of the cleansing composition in a range from about 5% to about 50% and includes at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent with a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value between 8 and 10 cal. 1/3 . cm 2/3 , the so solvent selected from the group consisting of plasticizers, oil, and oil based solvents, and alcohol .
  • the phase layer that includes a solvent with a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value greater than 15 cal. 1/3 . cm 2/3 includes water. In some embodiments, the phase layer that includes a solvent with a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value greater than 15 cal. 1/3 . crrr 2/3 includes water and one or more of propanediol, and Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside.
  • the phase layer that includes a solvent with a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value less than 7.5 cal. 1/3 . cm 2/3 includes one or more oils.
  • the one or more oils is selected from the group consisting of C15-19 alkane, undecane, tridecane, isopropyl palmitate, Isododecane, and combinations thereof.
  • the phase layer that includes a solvent with a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value between 8 and 10 cal. 1/3 . cm 2/3 includes one or more plasticizers.
  • the one or more plasticizers includes triethyl citrate.
  • the cleansing composition includes at least a top, a middle and a bottom layer.
  • the visually distinct phase layer comprising at least one cosmetic solvent having a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value lower than 7.5 is the top layer
  • the visually distinct phase layer comprising at least one cosmetic solvent having a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value that is greater than 15 cal. 1/3 . cm 2/3 is the middle layer
  • the visually distinct phase layer comprising at least one cosmetic solvent having a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value that is between 8 and 10 cal. 1/3 . cm 2/3 is the bottom layer.
  • phase layers there may be more than one of each of the described first, second and third phase layers in the cleansing composition.
  • Other phase layers may have different properties, including Hilderbrand solubility parameter of any value, including less than or equal to 7.5 up to 15 or greater.
  • water is present in an amount in the range from about 40% to about 75%, based on the total weight of the cleansing composition.
  • the cleansing composition comprises:
  • phase layer that includes at least one cationic surfactant that is an amino acid based cationic surfactant selected from the group consisting of a derivative ethyl lauroyl arginate or a salt thereof, and ethyl cocoyl arginate or a salt thereof (PCA ethyl cocoyl arginate); at least one inorganic salt selected from the group consisting of sea salt, sodium chloride, magnesium chloride, calcium chloride, potassium chloride, magnesium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, and zinc pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, and other suitable mineral salts of sodium, calcium, magnesium, potassium, zinc, and combinations thereof; and at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent with a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value greater than 15 cal. 1/3 . cm 2/3 , the solvent selected from water, and water based solvents, such phase layer present in an amount, by weight of the cleansing composition in a range from about 20% to about 80%;
  • phase layer present in an amount, by weight of the cleansing composition in a range from about 5% to about 50%, and comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent with a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value less than 7.5 cal. 1/3 . cm 2/3 , the solvent comprising oil selected from the group consisting of C15-19 alkane, undecane, tridecane, isopropyl palmitate, Isododecane, and combinations thereof;
  • phase layer present in an amount, by weight of the cleansing composition in a range from about 5% to about 50%, and comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent with a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value between 8 and 10 cal. 1/3 . cm 2/3 , the so solvent comprising triethyl citrate.
  • the cleansing composition also comprises one or more additional components selected from: i. one or more humectants; ii. one or more preservatives; iii. one or more cosmetically acceptable additives; iv. and combinations thereof.
  • the cleansing composition may further include one or more cosmetically acceptable additives selected from fragrances; colorants; essential oils; fruit extracts, for example Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, and Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder; citric acid, sodium chloride; neutralizing or pH-adjusting agents (e.g., triethylamine (TEA) and sodium hydroxide); and combinations thereof.
  • the cleansing composition lacks, or is free or essentially free of silicones, in particular volatile silicones, for example but not limited to, cyclomethicones such as cyclopentasiloxane, surfactants, parabens, formaldehyde, and formaldehyde-derived compounds.
  • the cleansing composition lacks, or is free or essentially free of any one or a combination of silicone oils, isoparaffins, mineral oils, polyethylene glycol (PEG), polypropylene glycol (PPG) surfactants or solvents, petrochemical- derived compounds like benzalkonium chloride, preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, or combinations thereof.
  • silicone oils isoparaffins, mineral oils, polyethylene glycol (PEG), polypropylene glycol (PPG) surfactants or solvents, petrochemical- derived compounds like benzalkonium chloride, preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, or combinations thereof.
  • an inventive make-up removal composition for make up removal that provides an aesthetically pleasing gliding application and is smudge resistant.
  • an inventive make-up removal composition according to the disclosure is in the form of a water-based micellar make-up removal composition comprising at least two surfactants, one or more powdered polysaccharides, and water.
  • the cleansing composition can also include one or more inorganic mineral powders, one or more humectants, one or more silicone-based defoaming agents, one or more preservatives, and other cosmetically acceptable additives.
  • the inventors hereof have surprisingly demonstrated with the cleansing composition that a nature-based formulation that lacks harsh surfactants, silicones, and thickeners unexpectedly provides appealing aesthetics when applied to skin and exhibits good multiphase properties.
  • the cleansing composition includes at least three or more visually distinct liquid phases (phase layers). At least one of the at least three visually distinct phase layers includes at least one cationic surfactant and at least one inorganic salt, such phase layer present in an amount, by weight of the cleansing composition in a range from about 20% to about 80% and has at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent with a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value greater than 15 cal. 1/3 . crrr 2/3 .
  • At least one of the at least three visually distinct phase layers includes at least one cationic surfactant and at least one inorganic salt, such phase layer present in an amount, by weight of the cleansing composition in a range from about 5% to about 50% and has at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent with a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value less than 7.5 cal. 1/3 . cm 2/3 .
  • at least one of the at least three visually distinct phase layers is present in an amount, by weight of the cleansing composition in a range from about 5% to about 50% and has at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent with a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value between 8 and 10 cal. 1/3 . cm 2/3 .
  • the cleansing composition forms a milky single phase which separates after agitation into three or more visibly distinct phases in a maximum period of 24 hours.
  • “Cleanser” or “cleansing composition” as used herein means and refers to any cleansing composition utilized for application to a keratinous tissue for one or more of cleansing the skin, removal of make-up and the like.
  • Cosmetically acceptable means and refers to a carrier that is compatible with any keratinous substrate.
  • Keratinous substrate and “keratinous tissue” as used herein means and refers to, but is not limited to, skin, hair, and nails.
  • Multi-phase as used herein means and refers to compositions that include two, three, four or more phases which are separated by a single-phase interface.
  • the cleansing composition includes at least three such phases.
  • a multiphase composition requires shaking prior to application in order to form an extemporaneous emulsion of the multiple phases, wherein after shaking has ceased the phases become rapidly being to separate and wherein within a period of time after shaking that can range from a few seconds to a few hours the phases become essentially completely separated and regain their initial state with distinct phase interfaces.
  • the phenomenon of rapid phase separation, or de-mixing, of the phases after their use is one of the desired aesthetic qualities of multi-phase compositions.
  • the inventive composition achieves this property with high natural ingredient content and with no or with minimal synthetic components such as synthetic oils, for example, silicone oils, such as cyclopentasiloxane, and without thickeners.
  • Natural or “Nature-based” as used herein means and refers to cosmetically acceptable materials and components that are one or more of directly obtained from nature, are obtained from nature with minimal processing, and are derivatives of materials that are obtained from nature. Cleansing composition according to the instant disclosure are in some embodiments up to 99.11% natural, or "Highly natural.”
  • Plant-derived oils as used herein means fatty plant-derived oils that contain one or more fatty chain, and in some embodiments the fatty chain has a chain length from and including C8 to C24.
  • a fatty plant-derived oil may comprise one or a blend of oils having a chain length of C8, C9, CIO, Cll, C12, C13, C14, C15, C16, C17, C18, C19, C20, C21, C22, C23, and C24.
  • Free and "devoid” each indicates that no reliably measurable excluded material, for example, an excluded volatile silicone oil or excluded surfactant or other excluded material as described herein, is present in the cleansing composition.
  • the term “essentially free” means that, while it is preferred that no excluded material is present in the cleansing composition, it is possible to have very small amounts of the excluded material in the cleansing composition of the invention, provided that these amounts do not materially affect the advantageous properties of the cleansing composition.
  • "essentially free” means that excluded material can be present in the cleansing composition at an amount of less than 5%, or less than 4%, or less than 3%, or less than 2%, or less than 1%, or less than 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the cleansing composition.
  • silicone-free means that excluded silicones have not been added as a component.
  • a composition is devoid of silicones.
  • silicones that are lacking from the cosmetic cleansing composition includes, but is not limited to, silicone polymers, for example selected from dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, and other silicone oils, and silicone elastomers.
  • “Petrochemical-free” means that excluded petrochemical have not been added as a component.
  • Some specific but non-limiting examples of petrochemicals that are lacking from the cosmetic cleansing composition include benzalkonium chloride, isododecane, isohexadecane and the like.
  • the cleansing composition is not free from petrochemicals, but is formulated to have an amount of petrochemicals that is at or below the amounts found in similar compositions that are commercially available.
  • the cleansing composition is devoid of surfactants.
  • the cleansing composition is devoid of ethylene glycol (PEG) based surfactants or of sulfate/sulfonate based surfactant, or combinations thereof.
  • a surfactant may be present in a composition via its presence in one or more of the formulation components; thus, in some embodiments the cleansing composition may be "essentially surfactant-free" wherein surfactant is present at a concentration that does not exceed 5% by weight, and in some instances is present not more than 3% by weight, and in some instances is present not more than 1% by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.
  • surfactant- free means that the cosmetic cleansing composition is free or devoid specifically of surfactant.
  • alkyl ether sulfate and sulfonates alkyl sulfates and sulfonates; alkylbenzene sulfonates; alkyl and dialkyl sulfosuccinates; C8-C20 acyl isethionates; C8-C20 alkyl ether phosphates; alkylethercarboxylate.
  • Some specific surfactants that are lacking from the cosmetic cleansing composition include PEG-100 Stearate; PEG-20 Stearate and other esters of Polyethylene Glycol); Sucrose Stearate and other emulsifiers based on sugar esters; Glyceryl Stearate and other glycerol esters; Disodium Ethylene Dicocamide PEG-15 Disulfate; Sodium Steroyl Glutamate and other fatty amides; Steareth-100 and other fatty ethers; Acrylates/ClO- 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer and similar polymeric emulsifiers.
  • Skin as used herein means and refers to skin materials containing keratin such as facial and body skin, scalp, eyebrows, and lips.
  • the cleansing composition includes at least three or more visually distinct liquid phases (phase layers). In some embodiments, the cleansing composition includes three visually distinct phase layers. In some embodiments, the cleansing composition includes more than three visually distinct phase layers, for example four or more.
  • the cleansing composition includes at least three visually distinct phase layers.
  • the first visually distinct phase layer includes at least one cosmetic solvent and has a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value that is greater than 15 cal. 1/3 . cm 2/3 .
  • the second visually distinct phase layer includes at least one cosmetic solvent having a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value lower than 7.5.
  • the third visually distinct phase layer includes at least one cosmetic solvent having a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value that is between 8 and 10 cal. 1/3 . cm 2/3 .
  • Other phase layers may have different properties, including Hilderbrand solubility parameter of any value, including less than or equal to 7.5 up to 15 or greater.
  • the cleansing composition includes at least a top, a middle and a bottom layer.
  • At least one of the at least three visually distinct phase layers includes at least one cationic surfactant and at least one inorganic salt, such phase layer present in an amount, by weight of the cleansing composition in a range from about 20% to about 80% and has at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent with a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value greater than 15 cal. 1/3 . cm 2/3 .
  • the acceptable solvent may be selected from water, and water based solvents, nonionic surfactants, and the like .
  • the phase layer that includes a solvent with a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value greater than 15 cal. 1/3 . cm 2/3 includes one or more of water, glycerin and propanediol.
  • At least one of the at least three visually distinct phase layers includes at least one cationic surfactant and at least one inorganic salt, such phase layer present in an amount, by weight of the cleansing composition in a range from about 5% to about 50% and has at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent with a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value less than 7.5 cal. 1/3 . cm 2/3 .
  • the acceptable solvent may be selected from oil, and oil based solvents, and the like.
  • the phase layer that includes a solvent with a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value less than 7.5 cal. 1/3 . cm 2/3 includes one or more oils.
  • the one or more oils is selected from the group consisting of C15-19 alkane, undecane, tridecane, isopropyl palmitate, Isododecane, dimethicone, isoparaffins, white mineral oil, linseed oil, and combinations thereof.
  • At least one of the at least three visually distinct phase layers is present in an amount, by weight of the cleansing composition in a range from about 5% to about 50% and has at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent with a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value between 8 and 10 cal. 1/3 . crrr 2/3 .
  • the acceptable solvent may be selected from plasticizers, oil, and oil based solvents, alcohol, and the like.
  • the phase layer that includes a solvent with a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value between 8 and 10 cal. 1/3 . cm 2/3 includes one or more plasticizers.
  • the one or more plasticizers includes triethyl citrate.
  • the at least one cosmetically acceptable solvent with a Hilderbrand solubility parameter d value between 8 and 10 cal. 1/3 . cm 2/3 is selected from the group consisting of PPG-3 Methyl Ether, castor oil, triethyl citrate, diisopropyl adipate, and combinations thereof.
  • the cleansing composition When agitated, the cleansing composition forms a milky single phase which separates after agitation into three or more visibly distinct phases in a maximum period of 24 hours.
  • the cleansing composition includes at least one cationic surfactant.
  • the cationic surfactant is an amino acid based cationic surfactant, and in some particular embodiments, the amino acid based cationic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of a derivative ethyl lauroyl arginate or a salt thereof, and ethyl cocoyl arginate or a salt thereof (PCA ethyl cocoyl arginate). In some other examples, the amino acid based cationic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of cationic lysine-based surfactants.
  • amino acid-based cationic surfactants can be found in the literature like Tripathy, Divya, Mishra, Anuradha, Clark, James Hanley orcid.org/0000-0002-5860-et al (2016) Synthesis, chemistry, physicochemical properties and industrial applications of amino acid surfactants : A review. Comptes Rendus Chimie. pp. 112- 130. Reference may be made to certain commercial examples of amino acid based surfactants, which include AMINAT-G (TM) from Vedeqsa, and CAE (TM) from Ajinomoto.
  • TM AMINAT-G
  • TM CAE
  • the amount of the at least one cationic surfactant that is an amino acid based cationic surfactant is present in the cleansing composition is in a range of from about 0.01% to about 5%, or from about 0.02% to about 2%, or from about 0.05% to about 1% by weight, or from about 0.08% to about 1.5%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.5%, or from about 0.2% to about 0.4%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cleansing composition.
  • One of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.
  • each of the at least one cationic surfactant in the cleansing composition is present by weight, based on the total weight of the cleansing composition, from about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9, 4, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9, to about 5 percent, by weight, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • the cleansing composition includes in a water phase one or more additional surfactant, in some embodiments, a nonionic surfactant.
  • Useful alkylpolyglucosides include lauryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, coco glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate, or combinations thereof.
  • the one or more additional surfactant includes at least one nonionic surfactant that includes caprylyl/capryl glucoside.
  • the amount of the one or more additional surfactant present in the cleansing composition is in a range of from about 0.01% to about 5%, or from about 0.02% to about 2%, or from about 0.05% to about 1% by weight, or from about 0.08% to about 1.5%, or from about 0.1% to about 1.0%, or from about 0.2% to about 0.7%, or any suitable combination, sub combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cleansing composition.
  • One of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.
  • the one or more additional surfactant that is present in the cleansing composition is present by weight, based on the total weight of the cleansing composition, from about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9, 4, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9, to about 5 percent, by weight, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • the cleansing composition includes one or more salts, for example, the cleansing composition includes one or more salts selected from the group consisting of sea salt, sodium chloride, magnesium chloride, calcium chloride, potassium chloride, magnesium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, and zinc pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, and other suitable mineral salts of sodium, calcium, magnesium, potassium, zinc, and combinations thereof.
  • the cleansing composition includes one or more salts selected from the group consisting of sea salt, sodium chloride, magnesium chloride, calcium chloride, potassium chloride, magnesium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, and zinc pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, and other suitable mineral salts of sodium, calcium, magnesium, potassium, zinc, and combinations thereof.
  • the cleansing composition includes sea salt or sodium chloride.
  • the amount of each of the one or more salts, when present is in a range from about 0.01% to about 5%, or from about 0.02% to about 2%, or from about 0.05% to about 1% by weight, or from about 0.08% to about 1.5%, or from about 0.1% to about 0.5%, or from about 0.2% to about 0.4%, or any suitable combination, sub combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cleansing composition.
  • One of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate that other ranges are within the scope of the invention.
  • any one of the added salts is present, by weight, based on the total weight of the cleansing composition, from about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9, 3, 3.1, 3.2, 3.3, 3.4, 3.5, 3.6, 3.7, 3.8, 3.9, 4, 4.1, 4.2, 4.3, 4.4, 4.5, 4.6, 4.7, 4.8, 4.9, to about 5 percent, by weight, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • the cleansing composition includes one or more oils.
  • the cleansing composition includes one or more oils that are natural or nature-based oils.
  • the cleansing composition includes more than two oils, wherein at least one of each of the more than two oils is in a different phase layer of the cleansing composition.
  • the cleansing composition includes at least one or more oils present in a phase layer of the cleansing composition.
  • at least one phase layer of the cleansing composition includes two or more oils selected from the group consisting of a C15-19 alkane, undecane, tridecane, isopropyl palmitate, isododecane, and combinations thereof.
  • oil refers to any nonpolar compound that is a liquid at 25 °C and is hydrophobic and lipophilic. Oil that is suitable for use herein may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • volatile oil relates to oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or a keratin fiber in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil(s) are liquid at room temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mmHg).
  • non-volatile oil relates to oil which remains on the skin or the keratin fiber, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, for at least several hours and which in particular has a vapor pressure of less than 10-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
  • the oils are natural, food-derived oils, and in some particular embodiments, are oils of plant origin.
  • Plant-derived oils include glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have varied chain lengths from C4 to C24, it being possible for these chains to be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched.
  • NEOSSANCE TM
  • TM NEOSSANCE
  • TM HEMISQUALANE from Amyris
  • Cetiol Ultimate (TM) from BASF.
  • the cleansing composition may comprise one or more hydrocarbon-based oils.
  • the hydrocarbon-based oil may be a saturated hydrocarbon, an unsaturated hydrocarbon, lipids, triglycerides, a natural oil, and/or a synthetic oil.
  • the cleansing composition may include a synthetic oil selected from the group consisting of hydrogenated polyisobutene and hydrogenated polydecene.
  • a hydrocarbon-based oil may be a non-volatile hydrocarbon-based, such as:
  • hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have varied chain lengths from C4 to C24, it being possible for these chains to be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; these oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin seed oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, musk rose oil, and essential oils, such as Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Lavand
  • fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, containing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2- undecylpentadecanol;
  • (ix) essential oils selected from the group consisting of sunflower oil, sesame oil, peppermint oil, macadamia nut oil, tea tree oil, evening primrose oil, sage oil, rosemary oil, coriander oil, thyme oil, pimento berries oil, rose oil, anise oil, balsam oil, bergamot oil, rosewood oil, cedar oil, chamomile oil, sage oil, clary sage oil, clove oil, cypress oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, sea fennel oil, frankincense oil, geranium oil, ginger oil, grapefruit oil, jasmine oil, juniper oil, lavender oil, lemon oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, mandarin oil, marjoram oil, myrrh oil, neroli oil, orange oil, patchouli oil, pepper oil, black pepper oil, petitgrain oil, pine oil, rose otto oil, rosemary oil, sandalwood oil, spearmint oil
  • Hydrocarbon-based oils may be glyceride triesters and in particular to caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and in particular isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C12- C15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, such as octyldodecanol.
  • hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and in particular of branched C8-C16 alkanes, such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2, 2, 4,4,6- pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names, branched C C8-C16 esters, and isohexyl neopentanoate.
  • C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2, 2, 4,4,6- pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names, branched C C8-C16 esters, and iso
  • the cleansing composition may comprise one or more oils such as from those described herein above, and from oils that may be selected from branched or linear, liquid alkane with carbon chain length of Cll to C20.
  • liquid alkanes may be selected from those with a carbon chain length of from Cll to C20.
  • the liquid alkanes may be selected from those with a carbon chain length of from Cll to C20, or from C15 to C19, or one of Cll, C12, C13, C14, C15, C16, C17, C18 to C19.
  • suitable liquid alkanes that may be used according to the disclosure include hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes.
  • the one or more branched or linear, liquid alkane is selected from the group consisting of C15-19 alkane, undecane, tridecane, isododecane, isohexadecane, and combinations thereof.
  • the cosmetic cleansing composition may comprise two or more branched or linear, liquid alkanes.
  • the cosmetic cleansing composition may comprise each of C15-19 alkane, isododecane, undecane, and tridecane.
  • the cleansing composition may comprise one or more oils selected from polar emollients selected from esters, triglycerides, ethers, carbonates, alcohols, oils, butters, fatty acids, and their combinations thereof.
  • the polar emollients may be selected from those with a molecular weight of 400 g/mol or less. More, generally, the polar emollient may have a molecular weight in the range from about 50 g/mol to about 350 g/mol.
  • each of the at least one branched or linear, liquid alkane, when present, is present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of from about 1% to about 25% by weight, or from about 5% to about 20% by weight, or from about 10% to about 15% or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.
  • a range of from about 1% to about 25% by weight, or from about 5% to about 20% by weight, or from about 10% to about 15% or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight based on the weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.
  • each of the at least one branched or linear, liquid alkane, when present in the cosmetic cleansing composition may be present by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition, from about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21,22, 23, 24 to about 25 weight percent, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • the cleansing composition may comprise polar emollients that include those derived from C12-C50 fatty acids, preferably C16-C22 saturated fatty acids, and monohydric alcohols.
  • esters may be chosen from isopropyl myristate, methyl palmitate, isopropyl laurate, isopropyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, ethylhexyl laurate, ethylhexyl oleate, ethylhexyl isononanoate, myristyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl caprate/caprylate (or octyl caprate/caprylate), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, esters of lactic acid and of fatty alcohols comprising esters of lactic acid and of fatty alcohol
  • each of the at least one polar emollient when present, is present in the cosmetic cleansing composition in a range of from about 1% to about 12% by weight, or from about 2% to about 10% by weight, or from about 3% to about 5% or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.
  • a range of from about 1% to about 12% by weight, or from about 2% to about 10% by weight, or from about 3% to about 5% or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight based on the weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition.
  • each of the at least one polar emollient when present in the cosmetic cleansing composition, may be present by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing composition, from about 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, to about 12 weight percent, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • plasticizers may be present in the cleansing composition.
  • plasticizers tend to modify mechanical properties of a composition by reducing the Glass Transition Temperature (Tg) and increasing the softness and flexibility of films.
  • suitable plasticizers have a boiling point measured at ambient pressure of less than or equal to 285° C, in some embodiments less than or equal to 270° C, and in some embodiments less than or equal to 250° C. In the present specification, the boiling point values are to be considered accurate to ⁇ 2° C. owing to the uncertainties of boiling point measurement.
  • the cosmetic cleansing composition may comprise the plasticizer triethyl citrate.
  • plasticizers include, but are not limited to, glycols and their ester derivatives, esters of acids, in particular carboxylic acids, such as citrates, adipates, carbonates, tartrates, phosphates or sebacates, oxyethylenated derivatives, such as oxyethylenated oils, and their mixtures.
  • carboxylic acids such as citrates, adipates, carbonates, tartrates, phosphates or sebacates
  • oxyethylenated derivatives such as oxyethylenated oils, and their mixtures.
  • suitable plasticizing agents include, but are not limited to, diisobutyl adipate, the ester of teributyl acid and 2,2,4-trimethylpentane-l,3-diol, diethyl adipate, diethyl phthalate, dibutyl phthalate, dioctyl phthalate, butyl 2-ethylhexyl phthalate, dimethyl sebacate, dibutyl sebacate, ethyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, dipropylene glycol n-butyl ether, tributyl phosphate, tributoxyethyl phosphate, tricresyl phosphate, triphenyl phosphate, glycerol triacetate, butyl stearate, butyl glycolate, benzyl benzoate, butyl acetyltricinoleate, glyceryl acetyltricino
  • the amount of each plasticizer, when present in the cleansing composition can range from about 0.1% to about 35%, or from about 10% to about 30%, or from about 15% to about 20%, or any suitable combination, sub combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cleansing composition.
  • the amount of each plasticizer, when present in the cleansing composition can range from about 0.1% to about 35%, or from about 10% to about 30%, or from about 15% to about 20%, or any suitable combination, sub combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cleansing composition.
  • each plasticizer when present, is present by weight, based on the total weight of the cleansing composition, from about 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22,23,24,25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34 to about 35 weight percent, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • the humectant may comprise one or more of polyols, including, for example, glycerin, glycerol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol/propanediol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols, monoethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycol ethers such as monopropylene, dipropylene and tripropylene glycol alkyl(Cl-C4)ethers, squalane, triacetin, sugars, such as glucose, xylitol, maltitol, sorbitol, sucrose pentaerythritol, inositol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, lactic acid, lithium chloride, acet
  • polyols including, for example, glycerin, glycerol, butylene glycol, propy
  • the cleansing composition includes the propanediol.
  • the amount of each humectant, when present in the cleansing composition can range from about 0.5% to about 10% by weight, or from about 1% to about 10% by weight, or from about 3% to about 8% or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cleansing composition.
  • each of the at least one humectant in the cleansing composition when present, is present by weight, based on the total weight of the cleansing composition, from about 0.5,
  • water is present in the cleansing composition in a range from about 40% to about 75%, or from about 45% to about 70%, or from about 50% to about 65%, or from about 55%, or from about 60%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cleansing composition.
  • water is present, by weight, based on the total weight of the cleansing composition, from about 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, to about 80 weight percent, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • the water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or lime water, and/or a natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: water from Vittel, water from the Vichy basin, water from Uriage, water from La Roche Posay, water from La Bourboule, water from Enghien-les-Bains, water from Saint Gervais-les-Bains, water from Neris-les-Bains, water from Allevar-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizieres, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le-Saunier, water from Eaux Bonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water from Les Fumades, water from Tercis-les-Bains or water from Avene.
  • the water phase may also comprise reconstituted thermal water, that is to say a water comprising trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a
  • the pH of the cleansing composition is not limited but is generally between 5 and 9, and in some embodiments, is one of between 6 and 8, and in some embodiments is 7. In some particular embodiments, the pH of the cleansing composition is generally between 4 and 8, and in some embodiments, is one of between 5 and 7, and in some embodiments is 5.5.
  • the pH can be adjusted to the desired value by addition of a base (organic or inorganic) to the cleansing composition, for example ammonia or a primary, secondary or tertiary (poly)amine, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or 1,3-propanediamine, or alternatively by addition of an inorganic or organic acid, advantageously a carboxylic acid, such as, for example, citric acid.
  • a base organic or inorganic
  • a primary, secondary or tertiary (poly)amine such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine or 1,3-propanediamine
  • an inorganic or organic acid advantageously a carboxylic acid, such as, for example, citric acid.
  • the cleansing composition may include at least one water-soluble solvent.
  • water-soluble solvent is interchangeable with the term “water-miscible solvent” and means a compound that is liquid at 25 °C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), and it has a solubility of at least 50% in water under these conditions.
  • the water-soluble solvent has a solubility of at least 60%, 70%, 80%, or 90% in water under these conditions.
  • Non-limiting examples of water-soluble solvents include, for example, glycerin, alcohols (for example, C1-C30, C1-C15, C1-C10, or C1-C4 alcohols), organic solvents, polyols, glycols, or combinations thereof.
  • alcohols for example, C1-C30, C1-C15, C1-C10, or C1-C4 alcohols
  • organic solvents for example, polyols, glycols, or combinations thereof.
  • a water- soluble solvent when present, may include caprylyl glycol, glycerin, or combinations thereof.
  • organic solvents non-limiting mentions can be made of monoalcohols and polyols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, propyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, for example, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.
  • organic solvents are ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, propanediol, and glycerin.
  • the organic solvents can be volatile or non-volatile compounds.
  • water-soluble solvents include alkanols (polyhydric alcohols such as glycols and polyols) such as glycerin, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3- butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-l,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6- hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 2-butene-l,4-diol,
  • a water-soluble solvent may be propanediol.
  • the amount of the at least one water- soluble solvent, when present, is from about 0.1% to about 10%, or from about 1% to about 10%, or from about 2% to about 8%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cleansing composition.
  • the cleansing composition includes more than one water soluble solvent, each water soluble solvent present in an amount as set forth herein above, wherein each different water soluble solvent may be present within one of the ranges selected from the ranges set forth herein above.
  • each one or combination of water-soluble solvents when present, may be present by weight, based on the total weight of the cleansing composition, from about 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, to about 10 weight percent, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • one or more preservatives may be present in the cleansing composition.
  • the one or more preservatives when present, may be selected from Myrtrimonium bromide, phenoxyethanol, hydroxyacetophenone, ethylhexyl glycerin, chlorphenesin, cetrimonium chloride, caprylyl glycol, hexyl glycerin, octylglycerin, benzylglycerin, 3-heptoyl-2,2-propandiol, and 1,2-hexandiol; polyaminopropyl biguanide, also known as polyhexamethylene biguanide, or PHMB, and combinations thereof.
  • the cleansing composition is free or essentially free of one or more of caprylyl glycol, phenoxyethanol, hexyl glycerin, ethylhexylglycerin, octylglycerin, benzylglycerin, 3-heptoyl-2,2-propandiol, and 1,2-hexandiol; polyaminopropyl biguanide, also known as polyhexamethylene biguanide, or PHMB.
  • the one more preservatives includes Myrtrimonium bromide, phenoxyethanol, hydroxyacetophenone, and combinations thereof.
  • the amount of each one of the one more preservatives if present in the cleansing composition can range from about 0.01% to about 1% by weight, or from about 0.02% to about 0.5% by weight, or from about 0.03% to about 0.1% or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cleansing composition.
  • the amount of each one of the one more preservatives if present in the cleansing composition can range from about 0.01% to about 1% by weight, or from about 0.02% to about 0.5% by weight, or from about 0.03% to about 0.1% or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the weight of the cleansing composition.
  • each one of the one more preservatives when present in the cleansing composition, is present by weight, based on the total weight of the cleansing composition, from about 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1, 1.1, 1,2, 1.3, 1.4, 1.5, 1.6, 1.7, 1.8, 1.9, 2, 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9 to about 3 weight percent, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • the cleansing composition can also comprise at least one additive used in the cosmetics field which does not affect the properties of the cleansing composition according to the invention, such as additives selected from fragrances, vitamins, colorants; essential oils; fruit extracts, for example Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, and Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder; citric acid, sodium chloride; neutralizing or pH-adjusting agents (e.g., triethylamine (TEA) and sodium hydroxide); and combinations thereof.
  • additives selected from fragrances, vitamins, colorants; essential oils; fruit extracts, for example Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, and Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder; citric acid, sodium chloride; neutralizing or pH-adjusting agents (e.g., triethylamine (TEA) and sodium hydroxide); and combinations thereof.
  • the amount of one or more actives and additives, alone or in combination, present in the cleansing composition can be present in the cleansing composition according to the disclosure in a range from about 0.001% to about 20%, by weight, or from about 0.005% to about 0.01%, or from about 0.01% to about 0.1%, or from about 0.15% to about 5%, or from about 0.40% to about 4%, or from about 0.5% to about 2.5% by weight, or from about 1% to about 2%, or any suitable combination, sub-combination, range, or sub-range thereof by weight, based on the total weight of the cleansing composition.
  • any one or a combination of actives and additives may be present, by weight, based on the total weight of the cleansing composition, each one or the combination present from about 0.001, 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.005, 0.006, 0.007, 0.008, 0.009, 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.10, 0.20, 0.30, 0.40, 0.50, 0.60, 0.70, 0.80, 0.90, 1.0, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19 to about 20 weight percent, including increments and ranges therein and there between.
  • EXAMPLE 1 Inventive Compositions: [00134] One example of this multiphase cleansing composition is disclosed in the Formula 1 (see Table 1). When left standing, Formula 1 forms three visibly distinct layers. When agitated, the cleansing composition forms a milky single phase.
  • PCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate Raw Material has active present from about 50% to about 100%.
  • Formula 2 Another example of this multiphase cleansing composition is disclosed in the Formula 2 (see Table 2). When left standing. Formula 2 forms three visibly distinct layers. When agitated, the cleansing composition forms a milky single phase.
  • PCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate Raw Material has active present from about 50% to about 100%.
  • PCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate Raw Material has active present from about 50% to about 100%.
  • Inventive and Comparative compositions were tested in a study in which foundation was applied to skin and left to dry for 30 min.
  • Each of the multiphase liquid compositions that include Formula 1, Formula BF, and Formula BPAN was agitated and 1 gram of the formed single phase mixture was transferred to a cotton pad.
  • Each of the wetted cotton pads were rubbed six times against the makeup film on skin, and the makeup removability was assessed after rubbing.
  • Inventive and Comparative compositions were also tested in a study in which Mascara was evenly spread on skin and subsequently dried for 1 hour.
  • Each of the multiphase liquid compositions that include Formula 1 and Formula BF was agitated and 1 gram of the formed single phase mixture was transferred to a cotton pad.
  • Each of the wetted cotton pads were rubbed two times against the mascara film on skin, and the removability was assessed after rubbing. The results demonstrated that Formula 1 showed a better removal performance than comparative Formula BF.
  • EXAMPLE 4 Inventive Compositions [00148] Shown in Table 5 is another example of a 3-phase all liquid composition (Formula 3) based on the discovery in this disclose.
  • PCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate Raw Material has active present from about 50% to about 100%.
  • Table 6 Shown in Table 6 is another example of a 3-phase all liquid composition (Formula 4) based on the discovery in this disclose.
  • Each of the Formula 3 and Formula 4 compositions demonstrates good separation performance, which includes: 1) slow initial phase separation to enable sufficient homogenous emulsion before dispensing; 2) clear interface before the top layer of oil and bottom layer of aqueous solution; 3) clear container wall with minimal liquid droplet visible to eye.
  • the cleansing composition also demonstrated excellent ability to remove both long wear mascara and long wear foundation.
  • At least one means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
  • the terms “free” and “devoid” and “excludes” indicates that no reliably measurable excluded material is present in the cleansing composition, typically 0% by weight, based on the total weight of the cleansing composition.
  • the term “essentially free” means that, while it prefers that no excluded material is present in the cleansing composition, it is possible to have very small amounts of the excluded material in the cleansing composition of the invention, provided that these amounts do not materially affect the advantageous properties of the cleansing composition.
  • "essentially free” means that excluded material can be present in the cleansing composition at an amount of less than about 0.1% by weight, based on the total weight of the cleansing composition.
  • weight percent of an ingredient refers to the amount of the raw material comprising the ingredient, wherein the raw material may be described herein to comprise less than and up to 100% activity of the ingredient. Therefore, weight percent of an active in a composition is represented as the amount of raw material containing the active that is used and may or may not reflect the final percentage of the active, wherein the final percentage of the active is dependent on the weight percent of active in the raw material.

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Abstract

Une composition de nettoyage comprend au moins trois couches de phase visuellement distinctes. La première couche de phase visuellement distincte comprend au moins un solvant cosmétique et présente une valeur δ de paramètre de solubilité Hilderbrand qui est supérieure à 15 cal.1/3. cm-2/3 et comprend au moins un tensioactif cationique et au moins un sel inorganique. La deuxième couche de phase visuellement distincte comprend au moins un solvant cosmétique ayant une valeur δ de paramètre de solubilité Hilderbrand inférieure à 7,5 cal.1/3. cm-2/3. Et la troisième couche de phase visuellement distincte comprend au moins un solvant cosmétique ayant une valeur δ de paramètre de solubilité Hilderbrand qui est comprise entre 8 et 10 cal.1/3. cm-2/3.
PCT/IB2022/052961 2021-03-30 2022-03-30 Agent démaquillant anti-bavures multiphase à base d'eau WO2022208394A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US17/217,735 US11633332B2 (en) 2021-03-30 2021-03-30 Multi-phase water-based smudge-resistant make-up remover
US17/217,735 2021-03-30
FRFR2107715 2021-07-16
FR2107715A FR3125222B1 (fr) 2021-07-16 2021-07-16 démaquillant multiphasique à base d’eau et résistant au maculage

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