WO2022187788A1 - Formulation and processing of jelly highlighter - Google Patents

Abstract

The present technology provides a cosmetic composition that includes about 1.0 weight percent (wt%) to about 5.0 wt% of a carrageenan material, where the carrageenan material has a weight ratio of an iota carrageenan component to a lambda carrageenan component of about 2:1 to about 6:1, about 5.0 wt% to about 15.0 wt% of a humectant, about 1.0 wt% to about 25.0 wt% of a colorant, and about 65.0 wt% to about 75 wt.% of water, and methods of preparing the same.

Description

FORMULATION AND PROCESSING OF JELLY HIGHLIGHTER

CROSS-REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS [0001] This application claims the benefit of U.S. Provisional Patent Application No.

63/155,130, filed March 1, 2021, which is incorporated by reference herein in its entirety.

TECHNICAL FIELD

[0002] This application relates to natural-based cosmetic compositions and methods of making the same.

BACKGROUND

[0003] Cosmetic highlighters are products used to enhance and highlight key features of a face and/or body. Such highlighters are used to add luster, shine, and glow to the area it is applied. Highlighters also serve to enhance looks by contouring areas of a face and/or body by creating a perception of change in angle or depth after application of the product. For example, highlighters can be used on cheekbones and browbone on a face. Additionally, highlighters may also be used on neck area, collarbone, shoulders, and legs.

[0004] Highlighters come in various product forms like gel, creams, powders, and sticks. Most of the highlighters available in the market use a combination of chemicals to design and formulate the desired product properties. A typical formulation consists of base or substrate that can support high pigment load in the formula and still be shelf stable. The base or substrate can be an emulsion or suspension system, or a combination of waxes in a highlighter stick formula. However, with changing trends towards more natural, sustainable, and biodegradable alternatives, consumers demand more natural-based products. In addition, novel unique textures are still in demand.

[0005] Accordingly, there is an ever-growing need to have cosmetic formulations (such as highlighters) more or only natural-based ingredients as described herein.

SUMMARY

[0006] In one aspect, the present technology provides a cosmetic composition that includes about 1.0 weight percent (wt%) to about 5.0 wt% of a carrageenan material, where the carrageenan material has a weight ratio of an iota carrageenan component to a lambda carrageenan component of about 2:1 to about 6:1, about 5.0 wt% to about 15.0 wt% of a humectant, about 1.0 wt% to about 25.0 wt% of a colorant, and about 65.0 wt% to about 75 wt.% of water.

[0007] In another aspect, the present disclosure provides a method of preparing the natural -based cosmetic formulation. The method includes: preparing a slurry that includes carrageenan material, a humectant, and water; heating the slurry while stirring to obtain a homogenous mixture; mixing the homogenous mixture with a colorant to obtain the cosmetic formulation; and extruding the cosmetic formulation; wherein the carrageenan material includes a weight ratio of an iota carrageenan component to a lambda carrageenan component is about 2: 1 to about 6:1.

[0008] In another related aspect, the present technology provides a cosmetic formulation as described herein in any aspect for use as a gel (or jelly-like) highlighter.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

[0009] FIG. 1 A shows an exemplary cosmetic composition prior to extrusion (Example 2).

[0010] FIG. IB illustrates an exemplary cosmetic composition prior to extrusion (Example

2).

[0011] FIG. 2 illustrates an exemplary cosmetic composition following extrusion (Example 2).

[0012] FIG. 3 shows a graph of the gel strength analysis via texture analyzer as a function of force (g) vs. time (s) (Example 5 - Formulations 4-10).

[0013] FIG. 4 shows a graph of the gel strength analysis via texture analyzer as a function of force (g) vs. time (s) (Example 5 - Formulations 7, 14-16, and 30).

[0014] FIG. 5 shows a graph of the gel strength analysis via texture analyzer as a function of force (g) vs. time (s) (Example 5 - Formulations 7, 18-20).

[0015] FIG. 6 shows a graph of the gel strength analysis via texture analyzer as a function of force (g) vs. time (s) (Comparative Samples A-D and Formulation 7).

DETAILED DESCRIPTION

[0016] Reference will now be made in detail to certain aspects of the disclosed subject matter. While the disclosed subject matter will be described in conjunction with the enumerated claims, it will be understood that the exemplified subject matter is not intended to limit the claims to the disclosed subject matter. One aspect described in conjunction with a particular aspect is not necessarily limited to that aspect and can be practiced with any other aspect(s). [0017] Throughout this document, values expressed in a range format should be interpreted in a flexible manner to include not only the numerical values explicitly recited as the limits of the range, but also to include all the individual numerical values or sub-ranges encompassed within that range as if each numerical value and sub-range is explicitly recited.

For example, arange of “about 0.1% to about 5%” or “about 0.1% to 5%” should be interpreted to include not just about 0.1% to about 5%, but also the individual values (e.g.. 1%, 2%, 3%, and 4%) and the sub-ranges (e.g., 0.1% to 0.5%, 1.1% to 2.2%, 3.3% to 4.4%) within the indicated range. The statement “about X to Y” has the same meaning as “about X to about Y,” unless indicated otherwise. Likewise, the statement “about X, Y, or about Z” has the same meaning as “about X, about Y, or about Z,” unless indicated otherwise.

[0018] As used herein, the singular forms "a," "an," and "the" and similar referents in the context of describing the elements (especially in the context of the following claims) include plural referents unless the context clearly dictates otherwise. For example, reference to "a substituent" encompasses a single substituent as well as two or more substituents, and the like.

It is understood that any term in the singular may include its plural counterpart and vice versa, unless otherwise indicated herein or clearly contradicted by context.

[0019] The term “or” is used to refer to a nonexclusive “or” unless otherwise indicated.

The statement “at least one of A and B” has the same meaning as “A, B, or A and B.”

[0020] In addition, it is to be understood that the phraseology or terminology employed herein, and not otherwise defined, is for the purpose of description only and not of limitation. Any use of section headings is intended to aid reading of the document and is not to be interpreted as limiting; information that is relevant to a section heading may occur within or outside of that particular section. Any publications, patents, and patent documents referred to in this document are incorporated by reference herein in their entirety, as though individually incorporated by reference. In the event of inconsistent usages between this document and those documents so incorporated by reference, the usage in the incorporated reference should be considered supplementary to that of this document; for irreconcilable inconsistencies, the usage in this document controls.

[0021] As used herein, the terms "for example," "for instance," "such as," or "including" are meant to introduce examples that further clarify more general subject matter. Unless otherwise specified, these examples are provided only as an aid for understanding the applications illustrated in the present disclosure and are not meant to be limiting in any fashion. [0022] In the methods described herein, the acts can be carried out in a specific order as recited herein. Alternatively, in any aspect disclosed herein, specific acts may be carried out any order without departing from the principles of the disclosure, except when a temporal or operational sequence is explicitly recited. Furthermore, specified acts can be carried out concurrently unless explicit claim language recites that they be carried out separately. For example, a claimed act of doing X and a claimed act of doing Y can be conducted simultaneously within a single operation, and the resulting process will fall within the literal scope of the claimed process.

[0023] The term “about” as used herein can allow for a degree of variability in a value or range, for example, plus or minus within 10%, within 5%, or within 1% of a stated value or of a stated limit of a range, and includes the exact stated value or range.

[0024] The term “substantially” as used herein refers to a majority of, or mostly, as in at least about 50%, 60%, 70%, 80%, 90%, 95%, 96%, 97%, 98%, 99%, 99.5%, 99.9%, 99.99%, or at least about 99.999% or more, or 100%.

[0025] As used herein, the following terms have the following meanings unless expressly stated to the contrary.

[0026] The term “natural-based” as used herein refers to a composition in which the formulation primarily includes ingredients derived from plant or animal sources.

[0027] The term “carrageenan” as used herein refers to a family of poly disperse long chain galactans, which can be extracted from seaweed (e.g, red seaw eeds). The basic structure of carrageenans is a linear polysaccharide made up of a repeating disaccharide sequence of b-D- galactopyranose linked through positions 1,3 (A residues) and a-D-galactopyranose residues linked through positions 1,4 (B residues). The regular backbone structure of the basic carrageenans is disrupted by a more or less ordered distribution of sulphate groups. Some of the galactose units have attached sulfate groups while others are unsulfated. The three main types (iota, kappa, and lambda) of carrageenan molecules differ by (1) the types of linkages between the galactose units, and (2) the point of attachment of the sulfate groups to the galactose units. These apparently small differences in chemical constitution and structure make major differences in the properties of each type of carrageenan.

[0028] Gelling in carrageenan is caused by helix formation and this can only occur in repeat structures where the B residue is in a l-C-4 conformation. Lambda carrageenan (theoretically having 3 sulphate groups per repeating unit) has both its sugar residues in a 4-C-l conformation and therefore is not typically active in gel formation. The gelling types of carrageenan include the kappa type (theoretically having 1 sulphate group per repeating unit) and the iota type (theoretically having 2 sulphate groups per repeating unit); all containing a 3,6- anhydro bridge on the B unit which forces the sugar to flip from a 4-C-l conformation to a 1-C- 4 conformation, allowing for cross-linking and gel formation.

[0029] As used herein, the term “humectant” refers to a wetting or moistening agent, which aids in maintaining or retention of moisture in a product or formulation.

[0030] As used herein, the term “colorant” refers to a substance that imparts color, such as a dye, pigments, or the like.

[0031] The present technology provides natural-based cosmetic compositions (such as cosmetic highlighters) and methods of preparing the same. The cosmetic composition as described herein advantageously provides a minimalist approach to the INCI (International Nomenclature Cosmetic Ingredient) list of ingredients, where the present technology provides a clean and simple cosmetic formulation which surprisingly exhibits good functional properties of easy spreading, non-sticky/tacky skin feel, good pick up, and smooth application.

Natural-Based Cosmetic Composition

[0032] In one aspect, the present technology provides a cosmetic composition that includes about 1.0 weight percent (wt%) to about 5.0 wt% of a carrageenan material, where the carrageenan material has a weight ratio of an iota carrageenan component to a lambda carrageenan component of about 2:1 to about 6:1, about 5.0 wt% to about 15.0 wt% of a humectant, about 1.0 wt% to about 25.0 wt% of a colorant, and about 65.0 wt% to about 75 wt.% of water.

[0033] In an aspect, the present technology provides a cosmetic composition that includes about 1.0 wt% to about 5.0 wt% of a carrageenan material, where the carrageenan material has a weight ratio of an iota carrageenan component to a lambda carrageenan component of about 2: 1 to about 6: 1, about 5.0 wt% to about 20.0 wt% of a humectant, about 1.0 wt% to about 30.0 wt% of a colorant, and about 60.0 wt% to about 90 wt.% of water.

[0034] In any aspect disclosed herein, the carrageenan material may be present in an amount of about 1.0 wt% to about 5.0 wt%, about 1.5 wt% to about 4.5 wt%, about 2.5 wt% to about 4.5 wt%, about 3.0 wt% to about 4.0 wt%, or any range including and/or in between any two of the preceding values. [0035] The carrageenan material includes a combination of iota carrageenan component and lambda carrageenan component. As described herein, “iota carrageenan component” refers to a carrageenan that substantially includes iota carrageenan. For example, in any aspect disclosed herein, the iota carrageenan component may include iota carrageenan in an amount of greater than or equal to about 80 wt%, about 85 wt%, about 90 wt%, about 95 wt%, about 99 wt%, aboutlOO wt%, or any range including and/or in between any two of the preceding values, based on total weight of the iota carrageenan component. In any aspect, the iota carrageenan component may include greater than or equal to about 95 wt% of iota carrageenan. In any aspect, the iota carrageenan component may include about 100 wt% of iota carrageenan.

[0036] As described herein, “lambda carrageenan component” refers to a carrageenan that substantially includes lambda carrageenan. For example, in any aspect disclosed herein, the lambda carrageenan component may include lambda carrageenan in an amount of greater than or equal to about 80 wt%, about 85 wt%, about 90 wt%, about 95 wt%, about 99 wt%, about 100 wt%, or any range including and/or in between any two of the preceding values, based on total weight of the lambda carrageenan component. In any aspect, the lambda carrageenan component may include greater than or equal to about 95 wt% of lambda carrageenan. In any aspect, the lambda carrageenan component may include about 100 wt% of lambda carrageenan.

[0037] In any aspect disclosed herein, the carrageenan material may be free, or substantially free, of kappa carrageenan. For example, the carrageenan material may include no greater than about 5 wt%, about 3 wt%, about 1.5 wt%, about 1 wt%, about 0.5 wt%, or any range including and/or in between the preceding values. In any aspect, the carrageenan material may be free of kappa carrageenan.

[0038] In any aspect disclosed herein, the carrageenan material may have a weight ratio of the iota carrageenan component to the lambda carrageenan component of about 2:1, about 2.5:1, about 3:1, about 3.5:1, about 4:1, about 4.5:1, about 5:1, about 5.5:1, about 6:1, or any range including and/or in between any two of the preceding values. For example, suitable weight ratio ranges may include about 2: 1 to about 6:1, about 3: 1 to about 5: 1, or about 3.5: 1 to about 4.5:1.

[0039] The cosmetic composition may include the iota carrageenan component in an amount of about 0.5 wt% to about 4.0 wt% based on total weight of the cosmetic composition. Suitable amounts of the iota carrageenan component may be about 0.5 wt%, about 1.0 wt%, about 1.5 wt%, about 2.0 wt%, about 2.5 wt%, about 3.0 wt%, about 3.5 wt%, about 4.0 wt%, or any range including and/or in between any two of the preceding claims. In any aspect, the cosmetic composition may include the iota carrageenan component in amounts of about 1.0 wt% about 4.0 wt%, about 1.5 wt% to about 3.5 wt%, or about 2.0 wt% to about 3.5 wt% based on total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0040] The cosmetic composition may include the lambda carrageenan component in an amount of about 0.1 wt% to about 1.5 wt% based on total weight of the cosmetic composition. Suitable amounts of the lambda carrageenan component may be about 0.1 wt%, about 0.3 wt%, about 0.5 wt%, about 0.7 wt%, about 0.9 wt%, about 1.1 wt%, about 1.3 wt%, about 1.5 wt%, or any range including and/or in between any two of the preceding values. In any aspect, the cosmetic composition may include the lambda carrageenan component in amounts of about 0.1 wt% to about 1.3 wt%, about 0.3 wt% to about 1.1 wt%, or about 0.3 wt% to about 0.9 wt% based on total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0041] The cosmetic composition, in any aspect disclosed herein, may include one or more humectants. Suitable humectants may include, but are not limited to, glycerol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hyaluronic acid, sodium pyroglutamic acid, sorbitol, pyrrobdone carboxylic acid (PCA) or salts thereof (such as sodium PCA), and combinations thereof. In any aspect, the humectant may be glycerol.

[0042] The cosmetic composition may include about 5.0 wt% to about 15.0 wt% of the humectant based on total weight of the cosmetic composition. In any aspect, the cosmetic composition may include about 5.0 wt% to about 20.0 wt% of the humectant based on total weight of the cosmetic composition. Suitable amounts of humectant in the cosmetic composition may be about 5.0 wt%, about 6.0 wt%, about 7.0 wt%, about 8.0 wt%, about 9.0 wt%, about 10.0 wt%, about 11.0 wt%, about 12.0 wt%, about 13.0 wt%, about 14.0 wt%, about 15.0 wt%, about 16.0 wt%, about 17.0 wt%, about 18.0 wt%, about 19.0 wt%, about 20.0 wt%, or any range including and/or in between any two of the preceding values. In any aspect, the cosmetic composition may include the humectant in amounts of about 5.0 wt% to about 15.0 wt%, about 6.0 wt% to about 12.0 wt%, or about 7.0 wt% to about 10.0 wt% based on total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0043] The cosmetic composition includes a colorant. In any aspect disclosed herein, the colorant may be any organic or inorganic effect pigment known by those of skill in the relevant art. As used herein, the term “effect pigment” refers to a particle that includes an organic or inorganic, natural or synthetic substrate (such as natural or synthetic mica, glass, acrylic resins, polyester, polyurethane, polyethylene terethalate, ceramics, or alumina), where the substrate may be covered with metallic or metal oxide coating (such as titanium dioxide, iron oxide, chromium oxide, aluminum, gold, silver, platinum, copper, bronze, or combinations thereof). In any aspect described herein, the colorant may be a mica-based pearlescent pigment. Said mica- based pearlescent pigments may be a mica (natural or synthetic) having a metallic or metal oxide coating (such as titanium, bismuth oxychloride, titanium dioxide, iron oxide, ferric oxide, chromium oxide. In any aspect, the mica-based pearlescent pigment may include mica having a metal oxide layer, where the metal oxide layer may include titanium dioxide, iron oxide, or combinations thereof.

[0044] In any aspect disclosed herein, the colorant may further include organic or inorganic dyestuffs, lakes, or mixtures thereof.

[0045] The colorant may be present in the cosmetic composition in amounts from about

5.0 wt% to about 25.0 wt% based on total weigh to the cosmetic composition. In any aspect, the cosmetic composition may include about 5.0 wt% to about 30.0 wt% of the colorant based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Suitable amounts of the colorant may include about 5.0 wt%, about 6.0 wt%, about 7.0 wt%, about 8.0 wt%, about 9.0 wt%, about 10.0 wt%, about 11.0 wt%, about 12.0 wt%, about 13.0 wt%, about 14.0 wt%, about 15.0 wt%, about 16.0 wt%, about 17.0 wt%, about 18.0 wt%, about 19.0 wt%, about 20.0 wt%, about 21.0 wt%, about 22.0 wt%, about 23.0 wt%, about 24.0 wt%, about 25.0 wt%, about 26.0 wt%, about 27.0 wt%, about 28.0 wt%, about 29.0 wt%, about 30.0 wt%, or any range including and/or in between any two of the preceding values. In any aspect, the cosmetic composition may include about 5.0 wt% to about 30.0 wt%, about 5.0 wt% to about 25.0 wt%, about 10.0 wt% to about 25.0 wt%, or about 12.0 wt% to about 20.0 wt%.

[0046] The cosmetic composition may further include one or more preservatives. In any aspect disclosed herein, the cosmetic composition may include about 0.1 wt% to about 1.0 wt% of the preservative based on total weight of the cosmetic composition. In any aspect disclosed herein, the cosmetic composition may include about 0.1 wt% to about 3.0 wt% of the preservative based on total weight of the cosmetic composition. Suitable amounts of the one or more preservatives may include about 0.1 wt%, about 0.2 wt%, about 0.3 wt%, about 0.4 wt%, about 0.5 wt%, about 0.6 wt%, about 0.7 wt%, about 0.8 wt%, about 0.9 wt%, about 1.0 wt%, about 1.2 wt%, about 1.4 wt.%, about 1.6 wt%, about 1.8 wt%, about 2.0 wt%, about 2.2 wt%, about 2.4 wt%, about 2.6 wt%, about 2.8 wt%, about 3.0 wt%, or any range including and/or in between any two of the preceding values. In any aspect, the cosmetic composition may include the preservative in an amount of about 0.1 wt% to about 3.0 wt%, about 0.1 wt% to about 1.0 wt%, about 0.3 wt% to about 1.4 wt%, about 0.7 wt% to about 1.2 wt%, or about 0.3 wt% to about 0.7 wt%. The one or more preservatives may include, but are not limited to, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexlglycerin, carpylyl glycol, glycerol, benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid, sorbic acid, dehydroacetic acid, benzoic acid, or mixtures thereof.

[0047] In any aspect disclosed herein, the cosmetic composition may include a pH- adjusting agent. Suitable pH-adjusting agents may include those that will adjust the pH of the cosmetic composition to about 7.0 or below. Preferably, the pH-adjusting agent may be included in the cosmetic composition such that the cosmetic composition has a pH in a range from about 5.0 to about 7.0. For example, the cosmetic composition may have a pH of about 5.0, about 5.2, about 5.4, about 5.6, about 5.8, about 6.0, about 6.2, about 6.4, about 6.6, about 6.8, about 7.0, or any range including and/or in between the preceding values. In any aspect, the pH-adjusting agent may be a food grade edible acid. For example, the pH-adjusting agent may be selected from citric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, or combinations thereof. In any aspect, the pH-adjusting agent may be included in an amount suitable to adjust the pH of the cosmetic composition in a range of about 5.0 to about 7.0.

[0048] The cosmetic composition as described herein in aspect provides a natural-based cosmetic composition having enhanced sensorial and textural properties. Such properties may include, but are not limited to, improved light sensory upon application to skin, ease of use, improved spreadability, and good pickup. In some aspects, the cosmetic composition may undergo extrusion to further enhance the sensorial or textural properties of the cosmetic composition. Extrusion is a process well known to those of ordinary skill in the cosmetic and food arts. For example, extrusion is widely used in the food industry for shaping and texturization, particularly with a view to modifying the sensory properties and quality of the resultant extruded food. Dictionary of Food Science and Technology, 2^nd Ed., 2009 p. 160. As used herein, the term “extrusion” refers to a processing technique which involves forcing, by pressure and/or other force (for example, a rotating screw, or the like), through a constriction (such as a die, barrel, or other constriction device). In any aspect disclosed herein, the materials may be pumped or forced by a screw through a barrel or die, and the process may be performed at an elevated temperature. In any aspect, the cosmetic composition is an extruded cosmetic composition.

[0049] In any aspect, the cosmetic composition may include about 1.0 wt% to about 5.0 wt% of a carrageenan material, where the carrageenan material has a weight ratio of an iota carrageenan component to a lambda carrageenan component of about 2: 1 to about 6:1, about 5.0 wt% to about 20.0 wt% of a humectant, about 1.0 wt% to about 30.0 wt% of a colorant, and about 60.0 wt% to about 90 wt.% of water.

[0050] In any aspect, the cosmetic composition may include about 1.5 wt% to about 4.5 wt% of a carrageenan material, where the carrageenan material has a weight ratio of an iota carrageenan component to a lambda carrageenan component of about 2: 1 to about 6:1, about 8.0 wt% to about 20.0 wt% of a humectant, about 12.0 wt% to about 28.0 wt% of a colorant, about 0.5 wt% to about 2.0 wt% of a preservative, and about 60.0 wt% to about 90 wt.% of water. [0051] In any aspect, the cosmetic composition may include about 1.0 wt% to about 5.0 wt% of a carrageenan material, where the carrageenan material has a weight ratio of an iota carrageenan component to a lambda carrageenan component of about 2: 1 to about 6:1, about 5.0 wt% to about 20.0 wt% of a humectant, about 1.0 wt% to about 30.0 wt% of a colorant, about 0.5 wt% to about 2.0 wt% of a preservative, and about 60.0 wt% to about 90 wt.% of water. [0052] In any aspect, the cosmetic composition may include about 1.0 wt% to about 5.0 wt% of a carrageenan material, where the carrageenan material has a weight ratio of an iota carrageenan component to a lambda carrageenan component of about 2: 1 to about 6:1, about 8.0 wt% to about 20.0 wt% of a humectant, about 5.0 wt% to about 28.0 wt% of a colorant, about 0.5 wt% to about 2.0 wt% of a preservative, a pH-adjusting agent, and about 60.0 wt% to about 90 wt.% of water, wherein the cosmetic composition has a pH of about 7.0 or less.

[0053] In any aspect, the cosmetic composition may include about 1.0 wt% to about 5.0 wt% of a carrageenan material, where the carrageenan material has a weight ratio of an iota carrageenan component to a lambda carrageenan component of about 2: 1 to about 6:1, about 5.0 wt% to about 20.0 wt% of a humectant, about 1.0 wt% to about 30.0 wt% of a colorant, about 0.5 wt% to about 2.0 wt% of a preservative, a pH-adjusting agent, and about 60.0 wt% to about 90 wt.% of water, wherein the cosmetic composition has a pH of about 5.0 to about 7.0.

[0054] In any aspect, the cosmetic composition may include about 1.0 wt% to about 5.0 wt% of a carrageenan material, where the carrageenan material has a weight ratio of an iota carrageenan component to a lambda carrageenan component of about 2: 1 to about 6:1, about 5.0 wt% to about 20.0 wt% of a humectant, about 1.0 wt% to about 30.0 wt% of a colorant, about 0.5 wt% to about 2.0 wt% of a preservative, a pH-adjusting agent comprising citric acid, and about 60.0 wt% to about 90 wt.% of water, wherein the cosmetic composition has a pH of about 5.0 to about 7.0.

[0055] In any aspect, the cosmetic composition may include about 1.5 wt% to about 5.0 wt% of a carrageenan material, where the carrageenan material has a weight ratio of an iota carrageenan component to a lambda carrageenan component of about 2: 1 to about 6:1, about 8.0 wt% to about 20.0 wt% of a humectant, about 5.0 wt% to about 30.0 wt% of a colorant, about 0.5 wt% to about 2.0 wt% of a preservative, a pH-adjusting agent comprising citric acid, and about 60.0 wt% to about 90 wt.% of water, wherein the cosmetic composition has a pH of about 5.0 to about 7.0.

[0056] The cosmetic composition of the present technology exhibits improved gel strength. Preferably, the gel strength is measured using a texture analyzer ( e.g ., TA.XT plus from Stable Microsystems). In any aspect, the cosmetic composition may exhibit a peak gel strength of about 35 g/s to about 300 g/s, about 60 g/s to about 280 g/s, about 90 g/s to about 225 g/s, about 100 g/s to about 150 g/s, or any range including and/or in between any two of the preceding values. [0057] In a related aspect, the present technology provides a cosmetic formulation as described herein in any aspect for use as a gel (or jelly-like) highlighter.

Method of Preparing Natural-based Cosmetic Composition

[0058] In another aspect, the present disclosure provides a method of preparing the natural-based cosmetic formulation. The method includes: preparing a slurry that includes carrageenan material, a humectant, and water; heating the slurry while stirring to obtain a homogenous mixture; mixing the homogenous mixture with a colorant to obtain the cosmetic formulation; and extruding the cosmetic formulation; wherein the carrageenan material includes a weight ratio of an iota carrageenan component to a lambda carrageenan component is about 2: 1 to about 6:1.

[0059] The slurry may include about 1.0 wt% to about 5.0 wt% of the carrageenan material, about 5.0 wt% to about 15.0 wt% of the humectant, about 65.0 wt% to about 75.0 wt% of water, and about 1.0 wt% to about 25.0 wt% of the colorant.

[0060] In any aspect, the slurry may include about 1.0 wt% to about 5.0 wt% of the carrageenan material, about 5.0 wt% to about 20.0 wt% of the humectant, about 60.0 wt% to about 90.0 wt% of water, and about 1.0 wt% to about 30.0 wt% of the colorant.

[0061] In any aspect, the slurry may include about 1.0 wt% to about 5.0 wt% of the carrageenan material, about 8.0 wt% to about 20.0 wt% of the humectant, about 60.0 wt% to about 90.0 wt% of water, and about 5.0 wt% to about 30.0 wt% of the colorant. [0062] In any aspect, the slurry may include about 1.5 wt% to about 4.5 wt% of the carrageenan material, about 8.0 wt% to about 20.0 wt% of the humectant, about 60.0 wt% to about 90.0 wt% of water, and about 12.0 wt% to about 28.0 wt% of the colorant.

[0063] In any aspect, the slurry may include about 1.0 wt% to about 5.0 wt% of the carrageenan material, about 5.0 wt% to about 20.0 wt% of the humectant, about 60.0 wt% to about 90.0 wt% of water, about 1.0 wt% to about 30.0 wt% of the colorant and about 0.5 wt% to about 2.0 wt% of a preservative.

[0064] In any aspect, the slurry may include about 1.0 wt% to about 5.0 wt% of the carrageenan material, about 5.0 wt% to about 20.0 wt% of the humectant, about 60.0 wt% to about 90.0 wt% of water, about 1.0 wt% to about 30.0 wt% of the colorant, a pH-adjusting agent, and about 0.5 wt% to about 2.0 wt% of a preservative.

[0065] In any aspect, the slurry may include about 1.0 wt% to about 5.0 wt% of the carrageenan material, about 5.0 wt% to about 20.0 wt% of the humectant, about 60.0 wt% to about 90.0 wt% of water, about 1.0 wt% to about 30.0 wt% of the colorant, a pH-adjusting agent, and about 0.5 wt% to about 2.0 wt% of a preservative, wherein the slurry has a pH of about 7.0 or less.

[0066] In any aspect, the slurry may include about 1.0 wt% to about 5.0 wt% of the carrageenan material, about 5.0 wt% to about 20.0 wt% of the humectant, about 60.0 wt% to about 90.0 wt% of water, about 1.0 wt% to about 30.0 wt% of the colorant, a pH-adjusting agent, and about 0.5 wt% to about 2.0 wt% of a preservative, wherein the slurry has a pH of about 5.0 to about 7.0.

[0067] The carrageenan material includes a combination of iota carrageenan component and lambda carrageenan component as described herein in any aspect. In any aspect, the iota carrageenan component may include greater than or equal to about 95 wt% of iota carrageenan. In any aspect, the iota carrageenan component may include 100 wt% of iota carrageenan. In any aspect, the lambda carrageenan component may include greater than or equal to about 95 wt% of lambda carrageenan. In any aspect, the lambda carrageenan component may include 100 wt% of lambda carrageenan. In any aspect disclosed herein, the carrageenan material may be free, or substantially free, of kappa carrageenan. For example, the carrageenan material may include no greater than about 5 wt%, about 3 wt%, about 1.5 wt%, about 1 wt%, about 0.5 wt%, or any range including and/or in between the preceding values. In any aspect, the carrageenan material may be free of kappa carrageenan. [0068] In any aspect disclosed herein, the carrageenan material may have a weight ratio of the iota carrageenan component to the lambda carrageenan component of about 2:1, about 2.5:1, about 3:1, about 3.5:1, about 4:1, about 4.5:1, about 5:1, about 5.5:1, about 6:1, or any range including and/or in between any two of the preceding values. For example, suitable weight ratio ranges may include about 2:1 to about 6:1, about 3:1 to about 5:1, or about 3.5:1 to about 4.5:1. [0069] The cosmetic formulation prepared according to the method described herein may include the iota carrageenan component in an amount of about 0.5 wt% to about 4.0 wt% based on total weight of the cosmetic formulation. Suitable amounts of the iota carrageenan component may be about 0.5 wt%, about 1.0 wt%, about 1.5 wt%, about 2.0 wt%, about 2.5 wt%, about 3.0 wt%, about 3.5 wt%, about 4.0 wt%, or any range including and/or in between any two of the preceding claims. In any aspect, the cosmetic composition may include the iota carrageenan component in amounts of about 1.0 wt% about 4.0 wt%, about 1.5 wt% to about 3.5 wt%, or about 2.0 wt% to about 3.5 wt% based on total weight of the cosmetic formulation. [0070] The cosmetic formulation prepared according to the method described herein may include the lambda carrageenan component in an amount of about 0.1 wt% to about 1.5 wt% based on total weight of the cosmetic formulation. Suitable amounts of the lambda carrageenan component may be about 0.1 wt%, about 0.3 wt%, about 0.5 wt%, about 0.7 wt%, about 0.9 wt%, about 1.1 wt%, about 1.3 wt%, about 1.5 wt%, or any range including and/or in between any two of the preceding values. In any aspect, the cosmetic formulation may include the lambda carrageenan component in amounts of about 0.1 wt% to about 1.3 wt%, about 0.3 wt% to about 1.1 wt%, or about 0.3 wt% to about 0.9 wt% based on total weight of the cosmetic formulation.

[0071] In any aspect, the humectant may include, but are not limited to, glycerol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hyaluronic acid, sodium pyroglutamic acid, sorbitol, PCA or salts thereof, and combinations thereof. In any aspect, the humectant may be glycerol.

[0072] The cosmetic formulation prepared according to the method described herein may include about 5.0 wt% to about 15.0 wt% of the humectant based on total weight of the cosmetic composition. In any aspect, the cosmetic formulation may include about 5.0 wt% to about 20.0 wt% of the humectant based on total weight of the cosmetic composition. Suitable amounts of humectant in the cosmetic composition may be about 5.0 wt%, about 6.0 wt%, about 7.0 wt%, about 8.0 wt%, about 9.0 wt%, about 10.0 wt%, about 11.0 wt%, about 12.0 wt%, about 13.0 wt%, about 14.0 wt%, about 15.0 wt%, about 16.0 wt%, about 17.0 wt%, about 18.0 wt%, about 19.0 wt%, about 20 wt%, or any range including and/or in between any two of the preceding values. In any aspect, the cosmetic composition may include the humectant in amounts of about 5.0 wt% to about 15.0 wt%, about 6.0 wt% to about 12.0 wt%, or about 7.0 wt% to about 10.0 wt% based on total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0073] In any aspect disclosed herein, the colorant may be an organic or inorganic effect pigment as described herein in any aspect. For example, the colorant may be a mica-based pearlescent pigment as described herein. In any aspect disclosed herein, the colorant may further include organic or inorganic dyestuffs, lakes, or mixtures thereof.

[0074] The colorant may be present in the cosmetic formulation in amounts from about 5.0 wt% to about 25.0 wt% based on total weigh to the cosmetic formulation. In any aspect, the cosmetic formulation may include about 5.0 wt% to about 30.0 wt% of the colorant based on the total weight of the cosmetic formulation. Suitable amounts of the colorant may include about 5.0 wt%, about 6.0 wt%, about 7.0 wt%, about 8.0 wt%, about 9.0 wt%, about 10.0 wt%, about 11.0 wt%, about 12.0 wt%, about 13.0 wt%, about 14.0 wt%, about 15.0 wt%, about 16.0 wt%, about 17.0 wt%, about 18.0 wt%, about 19.0 wt%, about 20.0 wt%, about 21.0 wt%, about 22.0 wt%, about 23.0 wt%, about 24.0 wt%, about 25.0 wt%, about 26.0 wt%, about 27.0 wt%, about 28.0 wt%, about 29.0 wt%, about 30.0 wt%, or any range including and/or in between any two of the preceding values. In any aspect, the cosmetic formulation may include about 5.0 wt% to about 30.0 wt%, about 5.0 wt% to about 25.0 wt%, about 10.0 wt% to about 25.0 wt%, or about 12.0 wt% to about 20.0 wt%.

[0075] The slurry of the present method may further include one or more preservatives.

The preservative may be included such that the cosmetic formulation includes amounts of the preservative of about 0.1 wt% to about 1.0 wt% of the preservative based on total weight of the cosmetic formulation. Suitable amounts of the one or more preservatives may include about 0.1 wt%, about 0.2 wt%, about 0.3 wt%, about 0.4 wt%, about 0.5 wt%, about 0.6 wt%, about 0.7 wt%, about 0.8 wt%, about 0.9 wt%, about 1.0 wt%, or any range including and/or in between any two of the preceding values. In any aspect, the cosmetic formulation may include the preservative in an amount of about 0.1 wt% to about 1.0 wt% or about 0.3 wt% to about 0.7 wt%. The one or more preservatives may include, but are not limited to, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexlglycerin, carpylyl glycol, glycerol, benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid, sorbic acid, dehydroacetic acid, benzoic acid, or mixtures thereof.

[0076] In any aspect disclosed herein, the cosmetic formulation prepared according to the method described herein may include a pH-adjusting agent. Suitable pH-adjusting agents may include those that will adjust the pH of the cosmetic formulation to about 7.0 or below. Preferably, the pH-adjusting agent may be included in the cosmetic formulation such that the cosmetic formulation has a pH in a range from about 5.0 to about 7.0. For example, the cosmetic composition may have a pH of about 5.0, about 5.2, about 5.4, about 5.6, about 5.8, about 6.0, about 6.2, about 6.4, about 6.6, about 6.8, about 7.0, or any range including and/or in between the preceding values. In any aspect, the pH-adjusting agent may be a food grade edible acid. For example, the pH-adjusting agent may be selected from citric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, or combinations thereof.

[0077] Upon extrusion, the cosmetic formulation may exhibit improved sensorial or textural properties. For example, the extruded cosmetic formulation may exhibit improved pick up, spreadability, or combinations thereof. The extruded cosmetic formulation may have a fluffy, bouncy, or mousse-like texture.

[0078] In a related aspect, the present technology provides a cosmetic formulation prepared according to the method described herein in any aspect.

[0079] In another related aspect, the present technology provides a cosmetic formulation as described herein in any aspect for use as a gel (or jelly-like) highlighter.

[0080] The present invention, thus generally described, will be understood more readily by reference to the following examples, which are provided by way of illustration and are not intended to be limiting of the present invention.

EXAMPLES

Ingredients:

Table 1.

[0081] Example 1 - Preparation of Cosmetic Composition. Iota and lambda carrageenan as described herein were used in a system containing mica-based colorants as well as emollients to produce a shiny and shimmery highlighter. Combining all ingredients and processing in a specific manner resulted in a jelly-like texture that is unique in sensory and application.

Table 2. Cosmetic Formulation

[0082] To prepare the cosmetic formulation, water and preservative as outlined in Table 2 were weighed into a suitable beaker. The beaker of water and preservative was placed onto a hot plate with a propeller attached with moderate mixing around 500 rpm. While mixing, the Satiagel VPC 508 and Satiagum VPC 430 were weighed into a weigh boat together and mixed with the entire amount of glycerol in the formula. Once a thick slurry forms with the glycerol and carrageenan, the slurry was added to the beaker with water and preservative. The contents mixture was heated to 65 °C with mixing at 800-1,000 rpm until a homogenous mixture was obtained.

[0083] Mica-based pearlescent pigments were weighed out and slowly added to the beaker. Mixing was continued at about 1,500 rpm until the colorant is completely dispersed. The mixture was cooled down to at least 30 °C. Once the mixture was sufficiently cool, the product was prepared for further processing and dispensing

[0084] The cosmetic formulations in Table 2 provided a natural, stable cosmetic formulation suitable for further processing; particularly, the cosmetic formulations resulted in giving a unique textured cosmetic highlighter with a jelly-like texture.

[0085] As shown in Table 2, Formulations 1-3 included the iota and lambda carrageenan combination at about 1-2 wt% amounts, resulting in a texture that is more liquid or fluid-like in texture (i.e., having lower gel-like texture). Formulation 4 with carrageenans at 2.5 wt% resulted in a soft gel product. Formulations 5-7 with carrageenans at 3-3.7 wt% provided a fluffy/mousse-like texture and form with good pickup (i.e., property that defines how the product is hand-picked up using fingers to be applied on skin). Formulations 8-10 having carrageenans at 4-5 wt% exhibited a firmer texture than Formulations 1-7, and as a result, the pick-up or spreading of the formula was less than Formulations 1-7. A dose-dependent response can be seen with the carrageenan combinations which shows that in this jelly highlighter formulation, the higher the carrageenan concentration, the firmer the texture.

[0086] As provided in the above example, the present technology provides a natural-based jelly highlighter with a unique bouncy, fluffy, mousse- or jelly-like texture with a combination of carrageenan’s and pigments. The processing parameters like extrusion resulted in obtaining a unique texture that has good and light sensory upon application of the product onto the skin and ease of use, such as good spreading and desired benefits of a jelly-like cosmetic highlighter. The overall formulation provides a natural-based and sustainable cosmetic composition.

[0087] Example 2. Extruded Product. The cosmetic formulations as prepared in Example 1 were further processed. The product was added to an apparatus for extrusion, such as KitchenAid mixer (Model number RRK 150 WH) with a sausage attachment (1.2 cm diameter). About 500 g was used to dispense the product through the extrusion attachments. Extrusion was conducted by pushing the product into the aforementioned attachment with moderate pressure and the mixer set on the lowest setting. As provided herein, combining the materials (Table 2) as described in Example 1 and processing in a specific manner resulted in a jelly-like texture that is unique in sensory and application.

[0088] FIGS. 1A and IB show products that are non-extruded. As shown, the product exhibits a flat texture. In contrast, FIG. 2 shows the extruded product which exhibits a bounder, mousse- or jelly-like texture which was fluffy and light upon application. Accordingly, further processing via extrusion of the cosmetic composition as described herein provides for improved sensorial and textural properties.

[0089] Example 3. Accelerated Shelf-Life Evaluation for Formulations with varying Humectant Concentrations. Extruded cosmetic compositions in keeping with the present technology were prepared according to the preparation procedures described in Examples 1 and 2, except the amount of humectant (glycerol) was varied according to the formulations in Table 3. Formulations 11-16 were stored at 45°C (113°F) for accelerated shelf- life evaluation. As shown in Table 3, separation was observed for formulations 11 and 12 after 4 weeks of accelerated shelf-life at 45°C. Sample 13 remained stable up to 8 weeks of shelf-life storage at 45°C; separation was observed after 8 weeks for sample 13. Samples 14-16 remained stable after 8 weeks of accelerated shelf-life storage at 45°C.

Table 3. Cosmetic Formulations/Accelerate Shelf-life Stability at 45°C (113°F)

[0090] Example 4. Accelerated Shelf-Life Evaluation for Formulations with varying Colorant Concentrations. Extruded cosmetic compositions in keeping with the present technology were prepared according to the preparation procedures described in Examples 1 and 2, except the amount of colorant (mica pigment) was varied according to the formulations in Table 4. Formulations 17-20 were stored at 45°C (113°F) for accelerated shelf-life evaluation. As shown in Table 4, separation was observed for formulations 17 and 18 after 4 weeks of accelerated shelf-life at 45°C. Sample 19 remained stable up to 8 weeks of shelf-life storage at 45°C; slight separation was observed after 8 weeks for sample 19. Sample 20 remained stable after 8 weeks of accelerated shelf-life storage at 45°C.

Table 4. Cosmetic Formulations/Accelerate Shelf-life Stability at 45°C (113°F)

[0091] Example 5. Texture Analysis. Extruded formulations 4-10 and 14-20 prepared in Examples 1 and 2 were initially tested for sensory feel by touching and applying the product on skin and then evaluating parameters like softness or firmness of the product. To better understand and define the texture using analytical evaluation, gel strength testing was conducted using a texture analyzer, TA.XT plus from Stable Microsystems.

[0092] The strength of a gel can be tested by measuring the resistance of the gel to deformation. The shape of the force/distance plot during the course of deformation and retraction of the probe with the texture analyzer allows evaluation of the gel strength as well as insights on the brittleness of the gel (jaggedness or smoothness of the deformation curve). Additional information such as adhesiveness can also be calculated by looking at the negative force area when the probe returns to its original position.

TA.XT Method:

[0093] In this method, the probe approaches the gel surface at 4 mm/s and starts the measurement upon detection of the 5 g trigger force and slows to a deformation rate of 2 mm/sec. The probe travels 5mm deep into the gel before retracting at 4 mm/sec to its original start position. Peak heights, distance and areas under the peaks upon deformation and retraction are recorded.

Impact of carrageenan concentration on gel strength:

[0094] The concentration of carrageenan’s in samples 4-10 are described in Table 2. The results are shown below in FIG. 3. Formulations 1-3 were liquid, so gel strength analysis was not tested on these samples. As shown in FIG. 3 and Table 5, formulation 4 showed the lowest peak gel strength, indicating less force is required to deform the gel and corresponds to a lower gel strength compared to formulations 5-10. Formulations 8-10 exhibited higher gel strength values, indicating firm to very firm textures. The texture analysis data clearly corelates with the observed sensory feel data obtained for the formulations in Table 2. Higher values can be seen when the levels of carrageenan’s are increased, which indicate a firmer texture. Lower levels of carrageenan resulted in lower force generated which indicates a softer texture.

Table 5. Peak Gel Strength

Impact of glycerin concentration on gel strength:

[0095] The levels of glycerin and pearls were then analyzed to determine an impact on the final texture of the prototypes.

[0096] Formulation 14-16 having varying humectant (glycerol) levels were evaluated via texture analyzer as described above and their resulting gel strength was measured (FIG. 4 and Table 6). Formulation 30 was prepared according to the procedure in Example 3, with the exception that the level of glycerol was 30 wt% and water was 53.5 wt%. Formulations 14-16 and 30, having higher levels of glycerol (12-30 wt%) exhibited higher gel strength than formulation 7 (9.3 wt% glycerol), indicating a firmer texture was observed with increasing levels of glycerol.

Table 6. Peak Gel Strength

Impact of Pearl colorant concentration on gel strength:

[0097] As shown in FIG. 5 and Table 7, lower levels of pearl colorant (formulations 17 and 18) resulted in a lower gel strength and softer texture than formulation 7, while higher levels of pearl colorant (formulations 19 and 20) resulted in a higher gel strength than formulation 7 exhibiting a significant increase in gel strength and a very firm texture.

Table 7. Peak Gel Strength

Gel Strength Evaluation of Formulation 7 Compared to Commercial Samples:

[0098] Commercially available j elly highlighter products were selected based on ease of access and popularity/trends. Four different commercial products were used to collect comparative gel strength data: Comparative Sample A (Jelly Beam™, sold by Farsali) Comparative Sample B (Jelly Highlighter, sold by E.L.F.), Comparative Sample C (Make Them Jelly™ Hi-Lite, sold by Almay), and Comparative Sample D (Master Chrome™ Jelly Highlighter, sold by Maybelline). Comparative Samples A-D were tested against the formulation 7 jelly highlighter.

[0099] As shown in FIG. 6 and Table 8, Comparative samples A and B exhibited the lowest peak force, while exhibiting the highest adhesion values. This indicates comparative samples A and B have a softer (less firm) texture compared to formulation 7. Comparative samples A and B also appear to be stickier. Comparative sample D exhibited a medium peak force with moderate adhesion (FIG. 6). Comparative sample C exhibited a moderate to high peak force with the lowest overall adhesion value, indicating the least sticky texture. The formulation 7 jelly highlighter exhibited the highest overall peak force while also showing a comparable adhesion value to that of comparative sample D.

Table 8. Peak Gel Strength

Conclusions:

[0100] As demonstrated by the above examples and exemplary formulations, the present technology provides a novel cosmetic composition (i.e., jelly highlighter) with a unique bouncy, fluffy, mousse-like texture. The processing parameters, like extrusion, further facilitate achieving the unique texture resulting in a surprisingly light sensorial feel on application of the product to skin and ease of use with good spreading along with exhibiting the desired benefits of the jelly highlighter. The overall formulation of the present technology provides a minimalist approach with only six ingredients in the formula which are nature-derived and sustainable. Texture analysis of the inventive cosmetic formulations provided quantitative gel strength values corresponding to the observed sensory observations. The gel strength data further demonstrated the improved sensorial feel of the present technology with respect to the combined impact of carrageenan material, humectant and colorant on the overall texture.

Exemplary Aspects

[0101] The following exemplary aspects are provided, the numbering of which is not to be construed as designating levels of importance:

[0102] Para. A A cosmetic composition comprising: about 1.0 weight percent (wt%) to about 5.0 wt% of carrageenan material, wherein the carrageenan material has a weight ratio of an iota carrageenan component to a lambda carrageenan component of about 2: 1 to about 6:1; about 5.0 wt% to about 15 wt% of a humectant; about 1.0 wt% to about 25 wt% of a colorant; and [0103] about 65.0 wt% to about 75.0 wt% of water.Para. B The cosmetic composition of Para. A, wherein the iota carrageenan component comprises at least about 95 wt% of iota carrageenan based on total weight of the iota carrageenan component.

[0104] Para. C The cosmetic composition of Para. A or B, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises about 0.5 wt% to about 4.0 wt% of the iota carrageenan component based on total weight of the composition.

[0105] Para. D The cosmetic composition of any one of Paras. A-C, wherein the lambda carrageenan component comprises at least about 95 wt% of lambda carrageenan based on total weight of the lambda carrageenan component.

[0106] Para. E The cosmetic composition of any one of Paras. A-D, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises about 0.1 wt% to about 1.5 wt% of the lambda carrageenan component based on total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0107] Para. F The cosmetic composition of any one of Paras. A-E, wherein the carrageenan material comprises less than about 5.0 wt% of kappa carrageenan based on total weight of the carrageenan material.

[0108] Para. G The cosmetic composition of any one of Paras. A-F, wherein the carrageenan material comprises less than about 1.0 wt% of kappa carrageenan based on total weight of the carrageenan material. [0109] Para. H The cosmetic composition of any one of Paras. A-G, wherein the carrageenan material is free, or substantially free, of kappa carrageenan.

[0110] Para. I The cosmetic composition of any one of Paras. A-H, wherein the humectant is selected from the group consisting of glycerol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hyaluronic acid, sodium pyroglutamic acid, sorbitol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) or salts thereof, and combinations thereof.

[0111] Para. J The cosmetic composition of any one of Paras. A-I, wherein the humectant comprises glycerol.

[0112] Para. K The cosmetic composition of any one of Paras. A-J, wherein the colorant comprises an organic or inorganic effect pigment.

[0113] Para. L The cosmetic composition of Para. K, wherein the colorant is a mica-based pearlescent pigment comprises mica comprising one or more metal oxide layers.

[0114] Para. M The cosmetic composition of Para. L, wherein the metal oxide layer comprises titanium dioxide, iron oxide, or combinations thereof.

[0115] Para. N The cosmetic composition of any one of Paras. K-M, wherein the colorant further comprises organic pigments, dyes, lakes, or mixtures thereof.

[0116] Para. O The cosmetic composition of any one of Paras. A-N, wherein the cosmetic composition further comprises a preservative.

[0117] Para. P The cosmetic composition of Para. O, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises about 0.1 wt% to about 1.0 wt% of the preservative based on total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0118] Para. Q The cosmetic composition of Para. O or P, wherein the preservative comprises phenoxyethanol, ethylhexlglycerin, carpylyl glycol, glycerol, benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid, sorbic acid, dehydroacetic acid, benzoic acid, or mixtures thereof.

[0119] Para. R The cosmetic composition of any one of Paras. A-Q, wherein the cosmetic composition has undergone extrusion.

[0120] Para. S The cosmetic composition of Para. R, wherein the cosmetic composition exhibits improved pick up and spreadability.

[0121] Para. T The cosmetic composition of any one of Paras. A-S, wherein the carrageenan material comprises a weight ratio of the iota carrageenan component to the lambda carrageenan component of about 3: 1 to about 5:1.

[0122] Para. U A method of preparing a cosmetic formulation, the method comprising: preparing a slurry comprising carrageenan material, a humectant, and water; heating the slurry while stirring to obtain a homogenous mixture; mixing the homogenous mixture with a colorant to obtain the cosmetic formulation; and extruding the cosmetic formulation; wherein the carrageenan material comprises a weight ratio of an iota carrageenan component to a lambda carrageenan component of about 2: 1 to about 6:1.

[0123] Para. V The method of Para. U, wherein the carrageenan material comprises a weight ratio of the iota carrageenan component to the lambda carrageenan component of about 3: 1 to about 5:1.

[0124] Para. W The method of Para. U or V wherein the slurry further comprises a preservative.

[0125] Para X The method of any one of Paras. U-W, wherein the extruded cosmetic formulation exhibits improved pick up and spreadability.

[0126] Para. Y A cosmetic formulation prepared according to the method of any one of Paras. U-Y.

[0127] Para. Z A cosmetic composition comprising: about 1.0 weight percent (wt%) to about 5.0 wt% of carrageenan material, wherein the carrageenan material has a weight ratio of an iota carrageenan component to a lambda carrageenan component of about 2: 1 to about 6:1; about 5.0 wt% to about 20 wt% of a humectant; about 1.0 wt% to about 30 wt% of a colorant; and about 65.0 wt% to about 75.0 wt% of water.

[0128] Para. AA A cosmetic composition comprising: about 1.0 weight percent (wt%) to about 5.0 wt% of carrageenan material, wherein the carrageenan material has a weight ratio of an iota carrageenan component to a lambda carrageenan component of about 2: 1 to about 6:1; about 5.0 wt% to about 20 wt% of a humectant; about 1.0 wt% to about 30 wt% of a colorant; and about 60.0 wt% to about 90.0 wt% of water.

[0129] Para. AB The cosmetic composition of any one of Paras. A-T, Z, or AA further comprising about 0.1 wt% to about 3.0 wt% of preservative based on total weight of the cosmetic composition. [0130] Para. AC The cosmetic composition of any one of Paras. A-T, Z, or AA further comprising about 0.5 wt% to about 2.0 wt% of preservative based on total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[0131] Para. AD The cosmetic composition of any one of Paras. A-T, Z, or AA further comprising a pH-adjusting agent.

[0132] Para. AE The cosmetic composition of Para. AD, wherein the pH-adjusting agent comprises food grade edible acid.

[0133] Para. AF The cosmetic composition of Para. AE or AD, wherein the pH-adjusting agent is selected from citric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, or combinations thereof. [0134] Para. AG The cosmetic composition of any one of Paras. A-T, Z, or AA, wherein the cosmetic composition has a pH of about 7.0 or less.

[0135] Para. AH The cosmetic composition of Para. AG, wherein the cosmetic composition has a pH of about 5.0 to about 7.0.

[0136] Para. AI The cosmetic composition of any one of Paras. A-T, Z, or AA, wherein the cosmetic composition exhibits a peak gel strength of about 35 g/s to about 300 g/s.

[0137] Para. AJ The cosmetic composition of any one of Paras. A-T, Z, or AA, wherein the cosmetic composition exhibits a peak gel strength of about 60 g/s to about 280 g/s.

[0138] Para. AK The cosmetic composition of any one of Paras. A-T, Z, or AA, wherein the cosmetic composition exhibits a peak gel strength of about 90 g/s to about 225 g/s.

[0139] Para. AL The cosmetic composition of any one of Paras. A-T, Z, or AA, wherein the cosmetic composition exhibits a peak gel strength of about 100 g/s to about 150 g/s.

[0140] Each of the non-limiting aspects above can stand on its own, or can be combined in various permutations or combinations with one or more of the other aspects or other subject matter described in this document. While certain aspects have been illustrated and described, a person with ordinary skill in the art, after reading the foregoing specification can effect changes, substitutions of equivalents and other types of alterations to the present technology as set forth herein. Each aspect and aspect described above can also have included or incorporated therewith such variations or aspects as disclosed in regard to any or all of the other aspects and aspects. [0141] The present technology is also not to be limited in terms of the particular aspects described herein, which are intended as single illustrations. Many modifications and variations of this present technology can be made without departing from its spirit and scope, as will be apparent to those skilled in the art from the foregoing descriptions. Such modifications and variations are intended to fall within the scope of the appended claims. It is to be understood that this present technology is not limited to particular methods, reagents, compounds, or compositions, which can, of course, vary. It is also to be understood that the terminology used herein is for the purpose of describing particular aspects only, and is not intended to be limiting. Thus, it is intended that the specification be considered as exemplary only with the breadth, scope and spirit of the present technology indicated only by the appended claims, definitions therein and any equivalents thereof.

[0142] The aspects, illustratively described herein may suitably be practiced in the absence of any element or elements, limitation or limitations, not specifically disclosed herein. Thus, for example, the terms “comprising,” “including,” “containing,” etc. shall be read expansively and without limitations. Additionally, the terms and expressions employed herein have been used as terms of description and not of limitation, and there is no intention in the use of such terms and expressions of excluding any equivalents of the features shown and described or portions thereof, but it is recognized that various modifications are possible within the scope of the claimed technology. Additionally, the phrase “consisting essentially of’ will be understood to include those elements specifically recited and those additional elements that do not materially affect the basic and novel characteristics of the claimed technology. The phrase “consisting of’ excludes any element not specified.

[0143] In addition, where features or aspects of the disclosure are described in terms of Markush groups, those skilled in the art will recognize that the disclosure is also thereby described in terms of any individual member or subgroup of members of the Markush group. Each of the narrower species and subgeneric groupings falling within the generic disclosure also form part of the invention. This includes the generic description of the invention with a proviso or negative limitation removing any subject matter form the genus, regardless of whether or not the excised material is specifically.

Claims

CLAIMS What is claimed is:

1. A cosmetic composition comprising: about 1.0 weight percent (wt%) to about 5.0 wt% of carrageenan material, wherein the carrageenan material has a weight ratio of an iota carrageenan component to a lambda carrageenan component of about 2: 1 to about 6:1; about 5.0 wt% to about 15 wt% of a humectant; about 1.0 wt% to about 25 wt% of a colorant; and about 65.0 wt% to about 75.0 wt% of water.

2. The cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein the iota carrageenan component comprises at least about 95 wt% of iota carrageenan based on total weight of the iota carrageenan component.

3. The cosmetic composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises about 0.5 wt% to about 4.0 wt% of the iota carrageenan component based on total weight of the composition.

4. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-3, wherein the lambda carrageenan component comprises at least about 95 wt% of lambda carrageenan based on total weight of the lambda carrageenan component.

5. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-4, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises about 0.1 wt% to about 1.5 wt% of the lambda carrageenan component based on total weight of the cosmetic composition.

6. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-5, wherein the carrageenan material comprises less than about 5.0 wt% of kappa carrageenan based on total weight of the carrageenan material.

7. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-6, wherein the carrageenan material comprises less than about 1.0 wt% of kappa carrageenan based on total weight of the carrageenan material.

8. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-7, wherein the carrageenan material is free, or substantially free, of kappa carrageenan.

9. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-8, wherein the humectant is selected from the group consisting of glycerol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hyaluronic acid, sodium pyroglutamic acid, sorbitol, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) or salts thereof, and combinations thereof.

10. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-9, wherein the humectant comprises glycerol.

11. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-10, wherein the colorant comprises an organic or inorganic effect pigment.

12. The cosmetic composition of claim 10, wherein the colorant is a mica-based pearl escent pigment comprises mica comprising one or more metal oxide layers.

13. The cosmetic composition of claim 12, wherein the metal oxide layer comprises titanium dioxide, iron oxide, or combinations thereof.

14. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 11-13, wherein the colorant further comprises organic pigments, dyes, lakes, or mixtures thereof.

15. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-14, wherein the cosmetic composition further comprises a preservative.

16. The cosmetic composition of claim 15, wherein the cosmetic composition comprises about 0.1 wt% to about 1.0 wt% of the preservative based on total weight of the cosmetic composition.

17. The cosmetic composition of claim 15 or 16, wherein the preservative comprises phenoxyethanol, ethylhexlglycerin, carpylyl glycol, glycerol, benzyl alcohol, salicylic acid, sorbic acid, dehydroacetic acid, benzoic acid, or mixtures thereof.

18. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-17, wherein the cosmetic composition has undergone extrusion.

19. The cosmetic composition of claim 18, wherein the cosmetic composition exhibits improved pick up and spreadability.

20. The cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1-19, wherein the carrageenan material comprises a weight ratio of the iota carrageenan component to the lambda carrageenan component of about 3: 1 to about 5:1.

21. A method of preparing a cosmetic formulation, the method comprising: preparing a slurry comprising carrageenan material, a humectant, and water; heating the slurry while stirring to obtain a homogenous mixture; mixing the homogenous mixture with a colorant to obtain the cosmetic formulation; and extruding the cosmetic formulation; wherein the carrageenan material comprises a weight ratio of an iota carrageenan component to a lambda carrageenan component of about 2: 1 to about 6:1.

22. The method of claim 21, wherein the carrageenan material comprises a weight ratio of the iota carrageenan component to the lambda carrageenan component of about 3: 1 to about 5:1.

23. The method of claim 21 or 22, wherein the slurry further comprises a preservative.

24. The method of any one of claims 21-23, wherein the extruded cosmetic formulation exhibits improved pick up and spreadability.

25. A cosmetic formulation prepared according to the method of any one of claims 21-24.