CN115154366A

CN115154366A - Cosmetic composition with suspended oil globules and method of making same

Info

Publication number: CN115154366A
Application number: CN202210753043.1A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 吴思远; 彭燕辉; 彭婷婷
Original assignee: Peng Shi Huizhou Industrial Development Co ltd
Current assignee: Peng Shi Huizhou Industrial Development Co ltd
Priority date: 2022-06-29
Filing date: 2022-06-29
Publication date: 2022-10-11

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition with suspended oil droplets, which contains, based on 100 parts by weight of the cosmetic composition, the following: 5-10 parts of oil phase and 90-95 parts of water phase. The aqueous phase of the cosmetic composition contains: acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, cellulose, disodium hydrogen phosphate and phenoxyethanol; aminomethyl propanol; and a humectant consisting of glycerin, 1, 3-propylene glycol, ethylhexylglycerin and 1, 2-hexanediol. The cosmetic composition oil phase contains: isononyl isononanoate and polydimethylsiloxane. The invention also relates to a preparation method of the cosmetic composition.

Description

Cosmetic composition with suspended oil globules and method of making same

Technical Field

The invention relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular to a cosmetic composition with suspended oil beads and a preparation method of the cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition of the invention is intended to be applied to keratin materials, in particular the skin, more particularly the facial skin.

Background

Cosmetic compositions, especially solution-type cosmetic compositions, are commonly used to impart a smooth, moist, tender skin feel to the skin. The current solution-type cosmetic compositions on the market mainly comprise water-based systems, microemulsion systems and water-oil layered systems. Cosmetic compositions of the water-based system are further classified into non-viscous cosmetic compositions and cosmetic compositions with a small amount of thickener, and the cosmetic compositions mainly achieve moisturizing effect by adding water-soluble humectant, and have refreshing skin feel, but have limited moisturizing degree due to no oil component. The microemulsion system cosmetic composition and the water-oil layered system cosmetic composition can be added with water-soluble and oil-soluble substances at the same time, so that the moisturizing and moistening effects are good after use.

However, with the continuous development of the cosmetic market, consumers have not satisfied the skin feel and efficacy of the product, and the requirements on the appearance and texture of the product are higher and higher. Therefore, some cosmetic manufacturers have proposed a suspension oil bead type cosmetic composition, which is prepared by adding low acyl gellan gum, electrolyte and xanthan gum to construct a suspension system of the whole formula, and then compounding silicone oil, so that the silicone oil beads can be uniformly suspended in the system, but the matching results in poor appearance transparency and the defect of wall hanging phenomenon.

Disclosure of Invention

The present invention aims to provide a cosmetic composition having high transparency in appearance, excellent moisturizing effect and suspended oil droplets capable of maintaining uniform and stable dispersion over a long period of time and over a wide temperature range. The cosmetic composition has a fresh, easily absorbed, moist but not greasy skin feel, the suspended oil bead is breakable when the cosmetic composition is spread on the skin, rubbing or pressing the cosmetic composition on the skin causes the suspended oil bead content to be released.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are particularly stable, in particular during 2 months at room temperature, even at 37 ℃ or 45 ℃, and they exhibit optimal cosmetic properties. In fact, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention exhibit a suitable fluidity: they are easy to handle and also easy to apply and spread onto the skin. Furthermore, the inventors noticed that the cosmetic composition according to the invention lasted without any cloudiness. The cosmetic composition also exhibits a texture required for cosmetic use: they are not sticky, soft to the touch and rebound in texture.

High transparency of the cosmetic composition of the invention means that the cosmetic composition of the invention can transmit at least 50%, in particular at least 60%, in particular at least 70% of light having a wavelength of 750 nm.

The suspended oil droplets in the cosmetic composition have an average particle diameter of 800 μm or more. For skin care applications, the average particle size is less than about 3000 μm, based on the diameter of the suspended oil droplets. Preferably, the average particle size is 1000 to 2000 μm in diameter. The average size of the suspended oil droplets is the numerical average size measured with a Brookhaven type granulometer, the measurement principle of which is based on quasi-elastic light scattering (QELS).

The present invention provides a cosmetic composition with suspended oil droplets, which contains, based on 100 parts by weight of the cosmetic composition: 5-10 parts of oil phase and 90-95 parts of water phase. The water phase adopts water as a main solvent, and the oil phase is in the form of suspended oil beads.

In order to achieve the technical effects of (i) stable presence of oil droplets, (ii) stable dispersion of oil droplets, (iii) an average particle size of oil droplets satisfying visual observation, and (iv) moisture retention and skin-moisturizing properties at the same time, it is necessary:

the aqueous phase contains:

-acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer, cellulose, disodium hydrogen phosphate and phenoxyethanol;

-aminomethyl propanol;

and a humectant consisting of glycerin, 1, 3-propanediol, ethylhexylglycerin and 1, 2-hexanediol.

The oil phase contains:

-isononyl isononanoate and polydimethylsiloxane.

From the viewpoint of obtaining a cosmetic composition which is high in appearance transparency, good in fluidity, free from stickiness, and uniform and stable, the thickener is contained in an amount of 2 to 5 parts by weight based on 100 parts by weight of the cosmetic composition. If the content of the thickener is less than 2 parts by weight, the suspension ability for oil droplets becomes weak, and the oil droplets cannot be uniformly and stably suspended; if the thickener content exceeds 5 parts by weight, the fluidity of the cosmetic composition becomes poor.

It has been unexpectedly found that aminomethyl propanol in a cosmetic composition not only acts as a pH adjuster, but also adjusts the average particle size of the suspended oil droplets by the amount of aminomethyl propanol added. From the viewpoint of obtaining stable suspended oil droplets, aminomethyl propanol is contained in an amount of 0.05 to 0.1 parts by weight based on 100 parts by weight of the cosmetic composition.

The aqueous phase further contains p-hydroxyacetophenone from the viewpoint of improving the antioxidant properties of the cosmetic composition. From the viewpoint of improving the stability of the components of the aqueous phase, the aqueous phase further contains a chelating agent, preferably disodium ethylenediaminetetraacetate (disodium EDTA).

The oil phase also contains a fragrance, preferably a perfume, from the viewpoint of enhancing the use experience of the cosmetic composition.

From the viewpoint of enhancing the appearance of the cosmetic composition, the aqueous phase also contains a colorant, so that the aqueous phase obtains a corresponding color appearance and still has high transparency. The colorant includes an organic or inorganic pigment or colorant applicable to cosmetics, which is water-soluble or water-dispersible, and which is non-oil-soluble and non-oil-dispersible or has limited solubility in oil. Organic pigments such as synthetic dyes or natural dyes selected from any of the well-known FD & C or D & C dyes; inorganic pigments, such as metal oxides or lakes, such as lakes based on cochineal, barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum and any combination (blend) thereof. Preferred organic pigments include, for example, D & C blue No. 4, D & C brown No. 1, D & C green No. 5, D & C green No. 6, D & C orange No. 4, D & C orange No. 5, D & C orange No. 10, D & C orange No. 11, D & C red No. 6, D & C red No. 7, D & C red No. 17, D & C red No. 21, D & C red No. 22, D & C red No. 27, D & C red No. 28, D & C red No. 30, D & C red No. 31, D & C red No. 33, D & C red No. 34, D & C red No. 36, D & C violet No. 2, D & C yellow No. 7, D & C yellow No. 8, D & C yellow No. 10, D & C yellow No. 11, FD & C blue No. 1, FD & C green No. 3, FD & C red No. 40, FD & C yellow No. 5, FD & C yellow No. 6, and the like. It is suitable that the colorant is contained in the cosmetic composition in an amount of 0.001-0.005 parts by weight, based on 100 parts by weight of the cosmetic composition.

In another aspect, it is still another object of the present invention to provide a method for preparing the above cosmetic composition. The preparation method of the cosmetic composition comprises the following steps:

step one, dispersing a thickening agent consisting of acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, cellulose, disodium hydrogen phosphate and phenoxyethanol in an emulsifying pot by using partial water pre-separation, adding EDTA disodium, glycerol, 1, 3-propylene glycol, ethylhexyl glycerol and p-hydroxyacetophenone, and homogenizing for not less than 3min until no particles exist and the mixture is uniform liquid;

step two, mixing an emollient consisting of isononyl isononanoate and polydimethylsiloxane and an aromatic, heating to 70-80 ℃, uniformly stirring to obtain an oil phase, and cooling to room temperature for later use;

adding the oil phase into an emulsifying pot under a stirring state (the stirring speed is not lower than 150 r/min), and stirring until suspended oil droplets are formed;

and step four, pre-dispersing the aminomethyl propanol by using the residual water, adding the aminomethyl propanol into an emulsifying pot, stirring at a low speed to uniformly disperse the suspended oil droplets, stopping stirring, discharging after the inspection is qualified, and filling to obtain the aminomethyl propanol.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:

according to the invention, the specific water phase and oil phase components are selected and compounded to prepare the cosmetic composition which is high in appearance transparency, good in fluidity and capable of uniformly and stably dispersing suspended oil beads, and the cosmetic composition can realize coexistence of the oil phase and the water phase without adding an emulsifier, so that the excellent moisturizing effect is achieved, the stimulation to the skin is reduced, and the product is fresh, easy to absorb, and moist but not greasy in skin feel.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention provides a strong moisturizing sensation while having a very pleasant sensation during application and a completely natural cosmetic effect after application. Finally, all of these features contribute to providing a very good balance of skin care efficacy perception and cosmetic efficacy (proper coverage and natural shine). In addition, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may exhibit a moisturizing effect.

Advantageously, said oil globules are deformable in the presence of said aqueous phase.

Advantageously, the oil globules within the composition are rupturable under pressure when applied to the keratin material.

The present invention is also directed to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising the application to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, of a cosmetic composition according to the invention.

The components of the oil phase need to be such that the oil phase has a large surface tension in the water phase, and oil globules can only be formed in the water phase by the oil phase if the surface tension of the oil phase is greater than the surface tension of the water phase. And the components of the oil phase need to reduce the oil floating on the surface of oil droplets so as to achieve the effect of separating the water phase from the oil phase. Meanwhile, the oil phase is required to achieve a lubricating effect, and therefore, it is preferable that the oil phase mainly comprises isononyl isononanoate and polydimethylsiloxane.

The oil globules are surrounded by an aqueous phase, which comprises at least one polymer, in particular a hydrophilic polymer, in order to achieve the effect of suspending the oil globules, based on the fact that the oil globules comprise predominantly isononyl isononanoate and polydimethylsiloxane. Preferably, the hydrophilic polymer is selected from the group consisting of polysaccharides and derivatives, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, or salts and esters thereof, and mixtures thereof. The polysaccharide and derivatives thereof are preferably selected from polysaccharides and derivatives thereof, preferably cellulose polymers, comprising one type of sugar or a plurality of types of sugar, preferably a plurality of types of sugar, especially at least as D-glucose unit of a sugar. According to a preferred embodiment, the aqueous phase comprises cellulose and an acrylic/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer. From the viewpoint of maintaining stable dispersion of oil droplets in the aqueous phase, the acrylic/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer has a molecular weight of 750kDa to 850kDa, and the cellulose is carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC).

Since isononyl isononanoate and polydimethylsiloxane in the oil globules are lipophilic, the aqueous phase needs to contain at least one water-soluble salt, and at least one hydrophilic alcohol compound in addition to the hydrophilic polymer in order to achieve a stable suspension and dispersion effect of the oil globules of larger average particle size. Preferably, the water-soluble salt is disodium hydrogen phosphate, based on the hydrophilic polymer in the aqueous phase. The alcohol compounds are in particular selected from the group consisting of lower alcohols, glycols, polyols, the hydrophilic polymers being soluble or dispersible in the alcohol compounds, preferably based on the hydrophilic polymers in the aqueous phase, the alcohol compounds including aminomethyl propanol, glycerol, 1, 3-propanediol, ethylhexyl glycerol and 1, 2-hexanediol, and the aminomethyl propanol giving the cosmetic composition a pH value ranging from 6.5 to 7.5.

In the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the oil droplets dispersed in the aqueous phase have a lamellar liquid crystal coating, i.e., the combination of the thickener, aminomethyl propanol and humectant in the aqueous phase forms a monolayer lamellar or a multilayer lamellar layer on the surface of each oil droplet. The combination of thickener, aminomethyl propanol and humectant in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention is particularly advantageous because their presence significantly improves the stability of the suspended oil globules. It was noted that at different temperatures, the amount of broken oil droplets was significantly reduced after two months of storage of the cosmetic composition.

The oil globules in the cosmetic composition of the invention need to be contacted with an aqueous phase comprising water, which is particularly advantageous with respect to imparting and/or improving the deformability of the oil globules of the invention. Advantageously, the aqueous phase acts as a swelling agent or softening agent with respect to the oil globules without breaking the globules. Oil droplets are not inert when placed in the aqueous phase, they swell: its diameter increases significantly with optional softening of the oil droplets; or the oil globules soften significantly without increasing in diameter, they become more malleable and more prone to rupture when applied to the skin. The aqueous phase used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is capable of acting on the softening kinetics of the oil globules, more particularly it makes it possible to obtain a good balance between softening kinetics and hardness. In a suitable manner, therefore, the water is particularly advantageous with respect to softening the oil globules suitable for the invention, since the water plays a role in the softening kinetics of the oil globules. Advantageously, the aqueous phase acts as a swelling agent or softening agent with respect to the oil globules, preferably without breaking the globules.

Advantageously, the glycerin, 1, 3-propanediol, ethylhexylglycerin and 1, 2-hexanediol included in the aqueous phase in the cosmetic composition of the present invention are moisturizers or humectants, which may have an effect on the stability of other components of the cosmetic composition, especially oil droplets, and the synergistic effect of the moisturizing agent and the emollient in the cosmetic composition of the present invention causes the cosmetic composition to exhibit a remarkable moisturizing effect or moisturizing effect.

The cosmetic composition of the invention is cosmetically acceptable, i.e. it comprises a medium which is physiologically acceptable, non-toxic and suitable for application on human keratin materials. By "cosmetically acceptable" is meant a cosmetic composition that has a pleasant appearance, odor, or feel. The "physiologically acceptable medium" is generally suitable in the form of: the cosmetic composition is intended to be formulated in this form.

Detailed Description

It should be understood that the specific embodiments described herein are merely illustrative of the invention and do not limit the invention.

Specific component parameters of the cosmetic compositions provided in examples 1-3 are shown in table 1.

The specific component parameters of the cosmetic compositions provided in comparative examples 1 to 5 are shown in table 2.

The (ester) acrylic/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosslinked polymers used in the cosmetic compositions of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 2 to 5 were

ULTREZ 20POLYMER。

It is to be noted that the combination of cellulose, disodium hydrogen phosphate and phenoxyethanol used in the cosmetic compositions of examples 1 to 3, comparative example 1 and comparative examples 3 to 5 is

CS。

TABLE 1

TABLE 2

The cosmetic compositions of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 5 were prepared by the following processes:

step one, in an emulsifying pot, dispersing an A1 phase (if any) and an A2 phase (if any) by using partial water pre-separation, then adding an A3 phase, and homogenizing for 3min to obtain a uniform liquid without particles;

step two, mixing the components of the phase B, heating to 75 ℃, uniformly stirring to obtain an oil phase, and cooling to room temperature for later use;

step three, adding the mixed phase B into an emulsifying pot under a stirring state (the stirring speed is 150 r/min), and stirring until suspended oil droplets are formed;

and step four, pre-dispersing the phase A4 (if any) by using the residual water, adding the pre-dispersed phase A4 into an emulsifying pot, stirring at a low speed to uniformly disperse the suspended oil droplets, stopping stirring, discharging after the inspection is qualified, and filling to obtain the cosmetic composition.

The test methods or evaluation methods of the respective performance indexes of the cosmetic compositions of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 5 are as follows:

[ transparency ]

Transmission measurements were performed using a Cary300 scanning UV-visible spectrophotometer from Varian corporation: pouring the cosmetic composition into a square spectrophotometer sample pool with the side length of 10 mm; then, a sample of the cosmetic composition was kept at 20 ℃ for 24 hours in a thermostatic chamber; then, measuring the light transmitted through the sample of the cosmetic composition by wavelength scanning from 700nm to 800nm on a spectrophotometer, the measurement being performed in transmission mode; then, the percentage of light transmitted through a sample of the cosmetic composition at a wavelength of 750nm was determined.

[ measurement of pH ]

Weighing one part (accurate to 0.1 g) of the cosmetic composition, adding boiled and cooled laboratory water nine parts, heating to 40 deg.C, stirring, cooling to 25 deg.C, and measuring pH.

[ measurement of viscosity ]

The measurement was carried out using a BROOKFIELD DV-C viscometer.

[ stability test ]

The cosmetic composition is placed in a refrigerator at 25 deg.C, -15 deg.C, and a constant temperature incubator at 50 deg.C for one month, taken out, and returned to room temperature to observe appearance.

[ sensory evaluation ]

The cosmetic composition was provided to 15 or more volunteers for one week for trial, and evaluations were made respectively for the following indices and general impression of the product, by 1-5 points, skin feel general impression mean = each index score × corresponding weight/weight sum, and the mean was counted.

The above tests are shown in table 3.

TABLE 3

The present invention provides a cosmetic composition having high appearance transparency, excellent moisturizing effect and suspended oil droplets, which can maintain uniform and stable dispersion over a long period of time and a wide temperature range.

The technical features of the embodiments described above may be arbitrarily combined, and for the sake of brevity, all possible combinations of the technical features in the embodiments described above are not described, but should be considered as being within the scope of the present specification as long as there is no contradiction between the combinations of the technical features.

The above-mentioned embodiments only express several embodiments of the present invention, and the description thereof is more specific and detailed, but not construed as limiting the scope of the invention. It should be noted that, for a person skilled in the art, several variations and modifications can be made without departing from the inventive concept, which falls within the scope of the present invention. Therefore, the protection scope of the present patent shall be subject to the appended claims.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition having suspended oil droplets, the cosmetic composition comprising, based on 100 parts by weight of the cosmetic composition: 5-10 parts by weight of an oil phase and 90-95 parts by weight of an aqueous phase,

the aqueous phase contains: acrylic acid (ester)/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, cellulose, disodium hydrogen phosphate and phenoxyethanol; aminomethyl propanol; and a humectant consisting of glycerin, 1, 3-propanediol, ethylhexylglycerin and 1, 2-hexanediol;

the oil phase contains: isononyl isononanoate and polydimethylsiloxane.

2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the thickener is contained in an amount of 2 to 5 parts by weight based on 100 parts by weight of the cosmetic composition.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the aminomethyl propanol is contained in the cosmetic composition in an amount of 0.05 to 0.1 parts by weight, based on 100 parts by weight of the cosmetic composition.

4. The cosmetic composition of claim 3, wherein said aqueous phase further comprises p-hydroxyacetophenone and disodium edetate.

5. The cosmetic composition of claim 4, wherein said oil phase further comprises a fragrance.

6. A process for preparing the cosmetic composition of claim 5, comprising the steps of:

step one, dispersing the thickening agent by using partial water in an emulsifying pot, adding the p-hydroxyacetophenone, the disodium ethylene diamine tetraacetate and the humectant, and homogenizing for not less than 3min until no particles are present and the mixture is a uniform liquid;

step two, mixing the emollient and the aromatic, heating to 70-80 ℃, uniformly stirring to obtain the oil phase, and cooling to room temperature for later use;

adding the oil phase into the emulsifying pot under a stirring state, and stirring until suspended oil droplets are formed;

and step four, pre-dispersing the aminomethyl propanol by using the residual water, adding the aminomethyl propanol into the emulsifying pot, stirring at a low speed to uniformly disperse the suspended oil droplets, stopping stirring, discharging after the suspended oil droplets are qualified by inspection, and filling to obtain the aminomethyl propanol.