WO2022180341A1

WO2022180341A1 - Method for manufacturing a functionalised dyed textile, use of a bleaching solution to increase the durability of a chemical functionalisation on a dyed textile, and dyed textile

Info

Publication number: WO2022180341A1
Application number: PCT/FR2022/050335
Authority: WO
Inventors: Sébastien FRANCOIS; Charles LANCERON
Original assignee: Induo
Priority date: 2021-02-26
Filing date: 2022-02-24
Publication date: 2022-09-01
Also published as: US20240133114A1; EP4298277A1

Abstract

Method (10) for manufacturing a functionalised dyed textile, comprising the following steps: obtaining (10-1) a dyed textile (12) comprising a majority by weight of natural fibres, preferably cellulose fibres; bleaching (10-2) the dyed textile to obtain a bleached dyed textile (13) the colouration of which has not been altered; and chemically functionalising (10-3) the bleached dyed textile (13) so as to obtain a hydrophobic dyed textile (14), the functionalisation having an increased attachment to the dyed textile due to the previous bleaching. The invention also discloses a functionalised dyed textile and the use of a bleaching solution to increase the durability of the chemical functionalisation on the dyed textile.

Description

Description Title: METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING A FUNCTIONALIZED DYED TEXTILE, USE OF A BLEACH SOLUTION TO INCREASE THE HOLD OF A CHEMICAL FUNCTIONALIZATION ON A DYED TEXTILE, AND DYED TEXTILE Technical field [0001] This disclosure relates to the field of dyed textiles and processes for functionalizing dyed textiles, in particular on textiles comprising a majority by mass of natural fibers, in particular cotton. PRIOR ART [0002] The textile industry has been considerably modernized over the past 50 years, in particular through the functionalization of textiles. Functionalization is the treatment of a textile (yarn or fabric or knit) to give it new properties. Among the best known properties are the waterproof treatment (hydrophobic), the anti-stain treatment (hydrophobic and oleophobic), the antibacterial treatment or the anti-crease treatment. The treatment can be either chemical in nature (by applying different products) or mechanical (by modifying the surface condition of the fabrics). [0003] The functionalization can be carried out at the level of the yarns before they are woven or knitted, or after weaving/knitting, on pieces of fabric or knitting, or assembled articles. Functionalization processes, also called finishing, can be classified into 3 groups: preparation and bleaching treatments; coloring treatments (dyeing and printing); finishing treatments (mechanical and chemical finishes, coatings). [0004] When the functionalization step is a final step in the textile production line (the dyed textile is bleached, colored and then functionalized), we speak of textile finishing. As regards the chemical finishing treatment, it is possible, for example, to subject the textile to one or more baths, which will make it possible to impregnate the textile with functionalizing products. The impregnation of the textile can be followed by a crosslinking step making it possible to create bonds and a network between the functionalizing product and the textile. [0005] Over time and washing, the functionalizing product may tend to detach from the textile, so that the textile loses performance with respect to its treatment output. Depending on the type of functionalization, the textile can lose most of its functionality after a few washes. Summary

[0006] The present disclosure makes it possible to improve the washing durability of the functionalization of the textile.

[0007] In this context, a method for manufacturing a functionalized dyed textile is proposed, the textile preferably being a fabric or a knit, comprising the following steps:

- Obtaining a dyed textile comprising a majority by mass of natural fibers, preferably ceilulosic fibers;

- bleaching of the dyed textile in order to obtain a bleached dyed textile whose dyeing has not been altered; and

- chemical functionalization of the bleached dyed textile in order to obtain a functionalized dyed textile, the functionalization having an increased attachment to the dyed textile thanks to the prior bleaching,

[0008] Bleaching before functionalization of an already dyed textile allows the functionalization to better attach to the textile, and thus to better resist wear and washing, whether by machine or dry cleaning.

[0009] The characteristics set out in the following paragraphs can, optionally, be implemented independently of one another or in combination with one another: [0010] the chemical functionalization of the textile aims to give it hydrophobic properties.

[0011] the chemical functionalization of the textile aims to give it oleophobic properties to make it substantially stain-resistant, preferably by exposing the textile to at least one bath chosen from a solution of perfiuorocarbons and/or a solution of silicone compounds.

[0012] - the chemical functionalization of the textile comprises the exposure of the textile to a solution of perfiuorocarbons or silicone compounds during a step comprising at least one operation of: burrowing, exhaustion, licking, spraying, sol-gel treatment, plasma treatment, and coating, followed by cross-linking of the textile. [6013] - the chemical functionalization of the textile comprises the following consecutive steps:

- first step of functionalizing the textile comprising exposing the textile to a solution of perfiuorocarbons during at least one operation of: fouiardage, exhaustion, licking, spraying, sol-gel treatment, plasma treatment, and coating, followed by crosslinking of the textile, in order to obtain a textile having hydrophobic properties, and

- second step of functionalizing the textile comprising exposing the textile to a solution of silicone compounds during at least one operation of: burrowing, exhaustion, licking, spraying, sol-gel treatment, plasma treatment, and coating, followed by reticulation of the textile.

[0014] the chemical functionalization of the textile comprises several exposures of the textile to different baths, the exposures being separated by at least one step of crosslinking the textile. [0015] - obtaining the dyed textile comprises obtaining the dyed textile having anti-crease properties, preferably having a residual angle after folding greater than or equal to 130 degrees.

[0016] - the bleaching of the textile comprises exposing the textile to a solution of hydrogen peroxide and/or to a solution of caustic soda, preferably to a solution comprising between 6 g/l and 12 g/l, preferably 8.4 g/l of 35% concentrated hydrogen peroxide, and between 2 g/l and 6 g/l, preferably 4 g/l, of caustic soda.

[0017] - the dyed textile is obtained from dyed yarns,

[0018] the dyed textile was obtained after a first bleaching step prior to dyeing. - the dyed textile comprises a majority by mass of cotton fibers, preferably in which the dyed textile comprises only cotton fibers.

[0020] - the dyed textile comprises a minority by mass of synthetic fibers, preferably fibers chosen from eiasthanne filaments, polyamide fibers and polyester fibers, [0021] - the dyed textile has been subjected to a mercerizing step comprising exposing the dyed textile to a solution of caustic soda or liquid ammonia.

[0022] - the dyed textile is of a color whose LABCIE1976 parameter L exceeds 80, measured by spectrometry.

According to another aspect, there is provided a functionalized dyed textile obtained according to the above process, optionally having any one or more of the preceding characteristics. The characteristics set out in the following paragraphs can, optionally, be implemented for the functionalized dyed textile obtained, independently of each other or in combination with each other:

[0025] the fabric is a shirt fabric dyed entirely of hydrophobic cotton. the textile has a residual angle after folding greater than or equal to 130 degrees, preferably greater than or equal to 135 degrees, even more preferably greater than or equal to 140 degrees, even more preferably greater than or equal to 145 degrees, and even more preferably greater than or equal to 150 degrees, measured according to the ISO 2313:1972 standard after having been exposed to 4 machine wash cycles according to the ISO 6330 standard.

- the textile has a residual angle after folding greater than or equal to 130 degrees, preferably greater than or equal to 135 degrees, even more preferably greater than or equal to 140 degrees, even more preferably greater than or equal to 145 degrees, and even more preferably greater than or equal to 148 degrees, measured according to ISO 2313:1972 after being exposed to 7 machine wash cycles according to ISO 8330.

- the textile has a residual angle after folding greater than or equal to 130 degrees, preferably greater than or equal to 135 degrees, even more preferably greater than or equal to 140 degrees, even more preferably greater than or equal to 145 degrees, measured according to the ISO 2313:1972 standard after being exposed to 20 machine wash cycles according to ISO 6330 standard,

[0029] - the textile has a residual angle after folding greater than or equal to 130 degrees, preferably greater than or equal to 135 degrees, even more preferably greater than or equal to 140 degrees, measured according to the ISO 2313:1972 standard after having been exposed to 40 machine wash cycles according to ISO 6330.

[0030] the textile has a spray test result of at least 3 measured according to the ISO 4920 standard, preferably of at least 4 measured according to the ISO 4920 standard, and even more preferably of 5 measured according to the ISO 4920 standard .

- the textile has a weight between 80 and 250 grams per m2, in particular between 80 and 220 grams per m2, in particular between 80 and 200 grams per m2, in particular between 80 and 170 grams per m2, in particular between 80 and 160 grams per m2, in particular between 80 and 150 grams per m2, in particular between 80 and 140 grams per m2,

According to another aspect, the use of a bleaching solution is proposed to increase the hold of a chemical functionalization on a dyed textile, the textile being preferably a fabric or a knit and comprising a majority by mass of natural fibers, preferably cellulosic fibers, preferably cotton fibers, the bleaching solution not altering the dyeing of the dyed textile.

Brief description of the drawings [0033] Other characteristics, details and advantages will appear on reading the detailed description below, and on analyzing the appended drawings, in which:

Fig. 1

[0034] [Fig. 1] shows stylized steps of a functionalized dyed textile manufacturing process according to one embodiment. Description of embodiments

[0035] Referring to Figure 1, stylized steps of a process 10 for manufacturing functionalized dyed textile are shown.

The method 10 consists in functionalizing a textile 12 which already holds, that is to say in providing it with additional properties. The method also aims to increase the durability of the functionalizing properties of the textile 12. For this the method 10 uses a step of cleaning the textile by bleaching before functionalization. This process is innovative in that the cleaning step is traditionally not carried out after dyeing, except in cases where it is desired that the dyed textile be discolored by the bleaching step.

Thus, according to a first step 10-1 of the process 10, the dyed textile 12 is obtained. The textile 12 can be a fabric or a knit. The textile 12 can also be textile yarns before weaving/knitting. If the textile 12 is a woven textile, it can be woven in different ways, such as plain weave, plain weave, twill, satin, jacquard, and their variants. The representation of FIG. 1 is only a schematic example of the type of weaving of the textile 12. According to one embodiment, the textile 12 is a textile intended for clothing, for example, a shirt or trousers. For a shirt, for example, the textile has a weight between 80 and 250 grams per m2, in particular between 80 and 220 grams per m2, in particular between 80 and 200 grams per m2, in particular between 80 and 170 grams per m2, in particular between 80 and 160 grams per m2, in particular between 80 and 150 grams per m2, in particular between 80 and 140 grams per m2. The shirting fabric can have a fineness between 5 and 18 Tex, a warp density between 20 and 100 threads/cm, and a weft density between 15 and 80 threads/cm.

The textile 12 obtained in the first step 10-1 can be in the form of a roll, especially if the textile 12 is a fabric. If the textile 12 is a knit, it can come in rolls or tubes. The roll can then be cut to form pieces which, once assembled, will constitute a garment. According to one embodiment, the textile 12 obtained in the first step 10-1 can be a cut piece intended to be sewn to other pieces in order to form a garment. The textile 12 obtained in the first step 10-1 could also be a partially or totally formed garment. According to another embodiment, the textile 12 is in the form of threads intended to be woven or knitted.

[0040] The textile 12 comprises a majority by mass of natural fibers. According to one embodiment, the natural fibers are cellulosic, for example cotton or linen. According to one embodiment, the textile 12 is composed entirely of natural fibers, and preferably entirely of cellulosic fibers. Thus, the textile 12 can be 100% cotton. According to another embodiment, the textile 12 comprises a minority by mass of fibers obtained from synthetic fibers, preferably fibers chosen from elastane filaments, polyamide fibers and polyester fibers. For example, the textile 12 contains a minority of polyamide fibers and/or polyester fibers. The textile 12 can contain one, two or more than two types of fibers, whether of natural or synthetic origin. According to one example, the fabric 12 is a mixture of yarns made from cotton fibers and yarns made from polyester. According to another example, the textile 12 is made of elastane; the threads are composed of a core of elastane filaments wrapped in a cotton fiber skin,

The textile 12 is already held, that is to say that a coloring treatment has already been applied to it before obtaining 10-1 of the textile. The coloring treatment does not necessarily give it a dark color or a color different from white. Coloring can be a brightening step to make it white, as in the case of cotton. The textile 12 can thus be white in color, light in color, that is to say whose parameter L of LABGIE1976 exceeds 60, measured by spectrophotometry, or dark in color. The textile 12 can be dyed in several colors, in order, for example, to create patterns. The textile 12 can also be dyed in a uniform color, such as, for example, all white or all blue. The textile 12 may have been dyed after weaving (or meshing if applicable), or else the fibers composing the textile may have been dyed before weaving (or meshing if applicable) so as to obtain a dyed textile, it is possible that certain only fibers of the textile have been dyed. For example, in the case of a textile composed of natural fibers and synthetic fibers, only the natural fibers may have undergone prior dyeing.

[0042] The coloring applied to the textile is a coloring that will resist the subsequent bleaching cleaning step. That is to say that the color will not be altered by bleaching before functionalization. For this, we do not choose indigo. One can for example choose reactive dyes because they are not very subject to discoloration when they are applied to cellulosic fibers. Reactive dyes are characterized by a covalent type attachment to the fiber (covalent chemical reaction between the dye and the reactive hydroxyl groups of the cellulose). It is also possible to bleach before functionalization which does not alter the colors. One can also use reactive dyes in combination with bleaching which does not alter the colors. By "does not alter the colors" it is understood that the colors do not differ from each other before and after bleaching by a Delta E parameter of less than 1.5 and preferably 1. The Delta E color difference is a measure of the visual difference between two colors, in a perceptually uniform colorimetric space such as L ^* a ^* b ^* established in 1978 by the International Commission on Illumination (CIE). For a Delta E color difference of 1.5, for example 80% of people are not able to identify a color difference. [0043] According to one embodiment, the dyeing is carried out after prior bleaching (or first bleaching). Bleaching consists of a step making it possible to prepare the textile 12 (woven, knitted or in the form of threads) to receive the dye, in particular when it comes to natural fibers. Bleaching, which can be done in one or more steps, removes natural or artificial impurities from fabrics. Bleaching followed by bluing on a cotton textile, for example, makes it possible to obtain a white textile. Examples of bleaching are given below.

According to one embodiment, the textile 12 has been mercerized. Mercerization is a chemical treatment process applied to cellulosic fibers that improves the physico-chemical and geometric characteristics of cotton fibers, such as giving them a lustrous appearance. Mercerization can be carried out on yarns before weaving/knitting or on the fabric/knitting directly. In the following, reference will therefore be made to mercerization on textiles to denote indifferently mercerization on yarns or on fabric or knitting.

[0045] The mercerizing can be carried out before or after the bleaching prior to the dyeing of the textile 12, depending on whether the fibers have undergone bluing or not. Thus, according to one embodiment, the textile 12 has been subjected to a mercerizing step comprising exposing the textile to a caustic soda solution, and the mercerizing step is carried out before the preliminary bleaching if the dyed yarns have undergone such first bleaching. And according to another embodiment, the textile 12 has been subjected to a mercerizing step comprising exposing the textile to an ammonia solution liquid just before brightening, if the textile has undergone a brightening step, otherwise the mercerizing step using an ammonia solution is carried out after dyeing.

[0046] Once the dyed textile 12 has been obtained (that is to say procured or made up), the manufacturing process 10 proceeds to a second step 10-2 consisting of cleaning the dyed textile 12 by bleaching in order to obtain a dyed textile 13 freed of impurities and whose color has not been altered, before chemical functionalization in a third step 10-3.

[6047] Process 10 therefore includes an unexpected bleaching step in that it occurs after dyeing and before functionalization. The step of cleaning the textile by bleaching, which is traditionally reserved for the preparation of the textile 12 for dyeing, will make it possible, within the framework of the method 10, to increase the resistance of the chemical functionalization over time. Consequently, the functionalization will be more resistant to washing (machine or dry cleaning) and to wear. Bleaching on already dyed textile is counter-intuitive for those skilled in the art because it traditionally never occurs after dyeing. Bleaching is typically reserved for the preparation of a textile before its dyeing, and not after. Since bleaching has properties for cleaning the fiber, those skilled in the art would not have the idea of applying a bleaching to the dyed textile which could alter the color of the textile. However, the inventors have found, surprisingly, that not only the colors of a textile dyed by reactive dyeing were not altered, but the textile 12 retained the subsequent functionalization better. Indeed, ie cleaning by bleaching after dyeing makes it possible to rid the textile of impurities such as glues and oils which would still be on the fibers. Consequently, the grip of the hydrophobic functionalization on the textile fibers is increased. [6648] Tests using a spray test (ISO 4920 standard) after washing (ISO 6330) on different cotton fabrics dyed by reactive dyeing, with and without the bleaching of step 10-2, show ^that step cleaning by bleaching before functionalization makes it possible to increase the anti-stain properties of the textile. The washing used according to the ISO 6330 standard was carried out in a type A machine, with a type A drying, a type I make-up load, a reference detergent 3, and a 6N washing method. The following results were obtained. These same characteristics will be used in this document for each result obtained using the 6330 standard. of 3.64. The median with whitening is 4.5 in spray test and the median without is 3.5. More specifically, with bleaching, two fabrics were obtained at 5 in the spray test, ten fabrics at 4.5, one fabric at 4 and one fabric at 3.5. Without bleaching, one fabric at 5, three fabrics at 4.5, one fabric at 4, five fabrics at 3.5 and five fabrics at 3 were obtained.

The cleaning by chemical bleaching of the second stage 10-2 can be carried out in the same way as the first bleaching discussed above and which was intended to prepare the textile 12 for dyeing. Bleaching before functionalization is chemical in nature in that it is subtractive because it “removes” chemical compounds. Brightening, by contrast, is an additive bleaching because it adds a molecule in order to modify the color.

According to one embodiment, the step 10-2 of bleaching the textile 12 comprises exposing the textile 12 to a bleaching solution, for example hydrogen peroxide and/or caustic soda (shown diagrammatically in ia figure 1 under ia reference 11), preferably to a solution comprising between 8 g/l and 12 g/l of concentrated hydrogen peroxide at 35% (preferably 8.4 g/l), and between 2 g/l and 6g/l of caustic soda (preferably 4g/l). The exposure can be done for example by exposing, impregnating or even saturating the textile 12 with the bleaching solution. According to one embodiment, the bleaching is carried out by applying to the surface of the textile 12 the solution of hydrogen peroxide and/or the solution of caustic soda at a temperature of 90° C. on a textile dyed with reactive dye for 45 min without temperature rise. The bleaching is preferably carried out at less than 90 degrees, for example 70 degrees, in particular for textiles colored by blueing for which a particular sensitivity to discoloration at the bleaching temperature has been observed.

The bleaching step includes a drying step in which the textile 12 is rinsed and then dried before proceeding to the functionalization step 10-3. The textile impregnated with hydrogen peroxide and/or caustic soda solution is first rinsed with water before being dried. Drying can be done in the open air or in a drying oven. Drying can be done continuously, on a drying rack or on a roller in a drying chamber. Drying can be by placing the rinsed textile in an oven at 120°C for 30 seconds in order to remove the water contained in the rinsed textile. At the end of drying, the bleached pretend textile 13 is dry, and there is no feeling of humidity to the touch,

Once the bleached dyed textile 13 is obtained, the method 10 proceeds to the third step 10-3 consisting in the functionalization of the bleached dyed textile 13 in order to obtain ^a functionalized dyed textile 14. The functionalization has an attachment to the dyed textile increased thanks to the preliminary whitening of the second stage 10-2. The third step 10-3 can be done immediately after the second step 10-2. Although the method 10 presented here does not include any intermediate steps between steps 10-2 and 10-3, it could be that according to one embodiment, one or more steps are carried out between steps 10 2 and 10-3. For example, a mercerizing step could be inserted between steps 10-2 and 10-3. The mercerization would then be similar to that described above.

The functionalization is a treatment of the textile 13 aimed at giving it new properties. The functionalization can be mechanical or chemical. Chemical functionalization consists of impregnating the textile 13 with a primer (also called functionalizing solution) to give it new properties. The impregnation is followed by a crosslinking of the textile 13 which makes it possible to activate chains in the polymers of the functionalizing solution. The crosslinking of the textile 13 can be carried out by passing it through an oven, the temperature of which can be between 140° C. and 200° C., for a period of between 15 seconds and 45 seconds, and which can be up to 5 minutes. The crosslinking could also be a wet crosslinking, which takes place under humid conditions at 70-90° C. for 8 to 24 hours.

There are various chemical functionalizations which can be applied alone or in addition to each other to the textile 13 to functionalize it. Among the best known are: waterproof treatment, anti-stain treatment, antibacterial treatment, anti-UV treatment, fire-retardant treatment, ie anti-crease treatment, softening, anti-felting, or antistatic, there are also several ways to impregnate the textile 13 with a functionalizing finish, among which mention may be made of: padding, exhaustion, licking, spraying, ie sol-gel treatment, ie plasma treatment, coating.

[0058] During padding, the textile 13 is immersed in a bath of the functionalizing solution (or primer), and passes between several rollers before coming out impregnated with the solution, which allows treatment of the whole of the textile 13 in favoring the penetration and diffusion of the solution.

During exhaustion, ie textile 13 is immersed in one or more baths containing the functionalizing solution without passing through rollers. This traditional method aims to bring the textile into contact with the functionalizing products, and this in different types of machines adapted to work the material into threads, parts, articles such as clothing. These machines work by circulating the bath through the textile, the textile in the bath, or both at the same time. For example, circulating bath apparatus, commonly referred to as "autoclaves", are used which can process off-the-shelf parts or coils of wire. Parts can also be worked in gut on overflow type machines. In this case, the chemicals used must have an affinity for the textile material in order to be adsorbed, then diffuse and fix themselves.

During coating, the textile is covered (or coated) with one or more layer(s) of polymer. The textile layer generally gives the system the resistance properties (tearing and tensile) and the elongation properties, while the polymer layer makes it possible to confer properties, for example, resistance to penetration and resistance to abrasion. impermeability (to liquids, gases and dust) and also to improve the abrasion resistance of the textile. If the enduetion concerns several layers, these can be bonded together by adding ^an adhesive to one or both of the layers. Cross-linking makes it possible to form the polymer on the textile surface (with or without adhesive).

[0059] During licking, the textile is wetted by means of a roller (or plates) which is immersed in a tank and which applies a controlled quantity of functionalizing solution to a single side of the textile. [0060] During spraying, fine droplets of functionalizing solution are applied to the textile.

During the sol-gel treatment, the reactivity of solutions at room temperature makes it possible to coat supports with low thermal resistance such as textile supports based on natural and/or synthetic fibres. The process is based on the hydrolysis and condensation of organometallic compounds.

[0062] During the plasma treatment, the textile surface is placed under a plasma zone. A plasma is an ionized gas composed of electrons, positively or negatively charged ionic particles, neutral atoms and molecules. Cold plasma, more suitable for textiles, is plasma at room temperature, which is applied to the textile to give it functionality.

According to one embodiment, the functionalization 10-3 of the textile 13 aims to give it hydrophobic (or water-repellent) properties, that is to say that the textile 13 does not allow aqueous compounds to penetrate it. This can be the case to give the textile a Waterproofing. These properties can be according to a range of hydrophobicity going from a completely waterproof textile to a textile, water repellent or simply repellent to water. According to one embodiment, the functionalization of the textile 13 aims to give it additional oleophobic (or oleophobic) properties, that is to say that it does not allow fatty substances to penetrate it.

If the functionalization of the textile 13 aims to give it hydrophobic and oleophobic properties, the textile 13 can be made substantially stain-resistant. According to a mode In one embodiment, the stain-resistant functionalization is obtained by exposing the textile to at least one bath chosen from a solution of perfluorocarbons and/or a solution of silicone compounds in order to give it hydrophobic or even stain-resistant properties. The solution of perfluorocarbons and/or silicone compounds can include only perfluorocarbons and/or silicone compounds, or else contain other compounds in addition to the perfluorocarbons and/or silicone compounds. The exposure of the textile 13 to the solution of perfluorocarbons or silicone compounds may comprise at least one operation of: padding, exhaustion, drying, spraying, self-gel treatment, plasma treatment, and coating, and the crosslinking of the textile 13.

According to another embodiment, the functionalization step 10-3 is an anti-stain functionalization aimed at giving the textile increased durability of the functionalization. The functionalization step 10-3 then comprises:

- a first step of functionalizing the textile comprising exposing the textile to a solution of perfiuorocarbons during at least one operation of: padding, exhaustion, drying, spraying, self-gei treatment, plasma treatment, and coating, followed by cross-linking of the textile, in order to obtain a textile having hydrophobic properties, and

- a second step of functionalizing the textile comprising exposing the textile to a solution of silicone compounds during at least one operation of: padding, exhaustion, drying, spraying, sol-gel treatment, plasma treatment, and coating, followed by of textile reticulation.

[0066] Indeed, it has been found that the use of ^a second step of functionalizing the textile comprising exposing the textile to a solution of silicone compounds after a first step of functionalizing the textile comprising exposing the textile to a solution of perfiuorocarbons made it possible to increase the anti-stain properties of the textile.

During each of the first or second functionalization steps above, only one of the impregnation operations discussed above can be carried out (once or several times), or else a combination of these operations can be carried out ( for example, exhaustion and padding in this order or in the reverse order). The first and second functionalization steps can be similar (each being the same operation), or different from each other.

The crosslinking of the textile 13 after the first functionalization step and the crosslinking of the textile 13 after the second functionalization step can each be carried out by passage through an oven whose temperature is between 140° C. and 200° C., preferably 170° C., for a period of between 15 seconds and 45 seconds, preferably 30 seconds. The crosslinking of the textile 13 after the first functionalization step and the crosslinking of the textile 13 after the second functionalization step can be done differently from each other, that is to say with drying times and temperatures different from each other.

The exposure of the textile 13 to the solution of perfluorocarbons during the first functionalization step makes it possible to give it hydrophobic or even also oleophobic properties. According to one embodiment, the perfluorocarbon solution predominantly comprises perfluorocarbons. According to one embodiment, the perfluorocarbon solution comprises perfluorocarbons having 6 carbon atoms or less. Examples of perfluorocarbons used during the first functionalization step are the compounds known commercially under the name Quecophob MPF-S, Tubiguard 30-F, Quecophob LE 6, or Nuva® 2114 Liq (ARCHROMA 219493). According to an example, an exhaustion bath or a padding solution can be prepared to carry out the first functionalization step by having a concentration of 80g of Nuva® 2114 Liq per liter of water.

The exposure of the textile 13 to the silicone solution makes it possible to give it hydrophobic or even also oleophobic properties. According to one embodiment, the solution of silicone compounds of the second functionalization step comprises a majority of silicone compounds. The solution of silicone compounds may comprise compounds chosen from polyorganosiloxane, in particular polyethylhydrosiloxane, polyethylhydrosiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, polydiethylsiloxane, poiy (dimethylsiloxane-co-methylhydrosiloxane), poly(methyl! hydrosi! oxane-co - methylphényisiloxane) or poly(dimethylsiloxane-co-hydrophenylsiloxane) or a mixture thereof, more particularly a polyorganosiloxane crosslinked by a crosslinking agent comprising at least one unsaturated functional group. Examples of solutions of silicone compounds used during the second functionalization step is the compound known commercially as Biuesil TCS 7001, Bluesil ICS 7110 A&B, Phobotex® WS ConcEco peri HC, Wacker repeüent 50 Extender, or Ecoperl active. This silicone compound can for example be used in cases where the textile 13 is made of cotton. Another type of Phobotex® could be used for a textile 13 other than cotton, for example wool. According to one example, an exhaustion bath or a padding solution can be prepared to carry out the first functionalization step with a concentration of 35 g of Phobotex® WS Conc per liter of water. According to one embodiment, the order of the steps between the first functionalization step and the second functionalization step can be reversed. However, it has been found, surprisingly, that when the first functionalization step is carried out before the second functionalization step, the durability of the functionalization is increased over time. An example of a functionalized textile having increased durability is discussed below. It was observed that the second functionalization step had an additional effect on the textile, in that it protected the functionalization obtained after the first step from wear, and therefore allowed the textile to keep its hydrophobic, even stain-resistant, functionalization. longer than if the second functionalization step had not taken place.

[0072] The stain-resistant functionalization in two steps makes it possible to increase the durability of the functionalization, compared to the application in a single step (that is to say the perfluorocarbon and silicone compounds mixed), or else which if a only of the two functionalizations had been made, or even if the order of the functionalizations had been reversed.

[0073] For example, for sixteen cotton fabrics tested, some before washing others after washing, some with bleaching others without, on average the spray test result was 4.53 with the two-step functionalization against 4.44 in one step (mixed perfluorocarbon and silicone compounds). In detail, for the one-step functionalization, we obtain seven tissues which have a spray test result of 5, four which have a spray test result of 4.5, two which have a spray test result of 4, two which have a spray test result of 3.5 and one which have a spray test result of 3. In comparison, for the two-step functionalization: seven tissues which have a spray test result of 5, six which have a result one with a spray test score of 4.5, one with a spray test score of 4, one with a spray test score of 3.5, and one with a spray test score of 3.

The bleached dyed textile 13 can be functionalized so as to give it more than one property. For example, the functionalization of the textile 13 comprises several exposures of the textile to different baths separated by at least one textile crosslinking step, and optionally one or more bleaching steps.

According to one embodiment, the functionalization according to the process 10 occurs on a textile 12 already functionalized (for example of a type other than that of the process 10) obtained in the first step 10-1. In this case, it was observed that not only did the bleaching of the second step 10-2 not alter the original functionalization of the textile 12, but in addition, the subsequent functionalization according to the method 10 allowed the original functionalization to last longer long time. According to one example, the method 10 makes it possible to functionalize hydrophobic in step 10-3 a textile already functionalized anti-crease in step 10-1. According to one example, the already functionalized anti-crease fabric has undergone an anti-crease treatment step. The anti-crease treatment may consist of a deposit of resin that does not react with the fibre. In this case the following resins can be used: phenol formaldehyde resin, urea formaldehyde resin, alkyd resin, ketone resin, or vinyl resin, not exhaustively. According to another example, a crosslinking resin is used to create covalent bonds. The crosslinking agents can be nitrogenous or non-nitrogenous crosslinking agents. These type resins chemically react with the fiber and crosslink the fiber molecules.

[0077] Thus, according to one example, a cotton fabric suitable for hydrophobic functionalized anti-crease clothing use thanks to process 10, can then present a residual angle after folding greater than or equal to 130 degrees, measured according to the ISO 2313:1972 standard. after being exposed to up to 40 machine wash cycles per ISO 8330. Residual angles are between 0 and 180 degrees. An angle close to 0, such as 80 degrees, represents more wrinkles than an angle close to 180 degrees, such as 160 degrees. In addition, the fabric can then present a spray test result of at least 4 measured according to the ISO 8330 standard.

The residual angle measured according to the ISO 2313:1972 standard presented here is the average of the residual angles found in the warp then weft directions on each side of the fabric. The residual angles measured according to the ISO 2313:1972 standard presented here are between 0 and 180 degrees.

[0079] [Equation 1]

[0080] According to one example, a hydrophobic cotton fabric suitable for clothing use having previously been functionalized to prevent creases, can have the following properties thanks to the process 10:

[0081] [Table 1]

[0082] In comparison, the same hydrophobic cotton fabric having been functionalized beforehand to prevent creasing has the following properties before undergoing process 10:

[0083] [Table 2]

[0084] An improvement in the anti-stain and anti-crease properties is therefore observed thanks to the prior bleaching of step 10-2 and to the double ionctionalization.

According to one embodiment, the method 10 is carried out by carrying out the steps 10-1, 10-2, and 10-3 in this order and directly one after the other. It could be that the method 10 includes additional steps, before or after some or each step 10-1, 10-2, 10-3,

The present disclosure is not limited to the examples of functionalized dyed textile manufacturing processes and to the functionalized dyed textiles described above, solely by way of example, but it encompasses all the variants that a person skilled in the art may consider. art within the scope of the protection sought.

Claims

[Claim 1] Process (10) for manufacturing a functionalized dyed textile, the textile preferably being a fabric or a knit, comprising the following steps:

- Obtaining (10-1) a dyed textile (12) comprising a majority by mass of natural fibers, preferably cellulosic fibers;

- bleaching (10-2) of the dyed textile in order to obtain a bleached dyed textile (13) whose dyeing has not been altered; and

- chemical functionalization (10 3) of the bleached dyed textile (13) in order to obtain a functionalized dyed textile (14), the functionalization having an increased attachment to the dyed textile thanks to the prior bleaching.

[Claim 2] Process (10) for manufacturing a textile according to claim 1, in which the chemical functionalization (10-3) of the textile is intended to give it hydrophobic properties.

[Claim s] Process (10) for manufacturing a textile according to claim 2, in which the chemical functionalization (10-3) of the textile is intended to give it oleophobic properties to make it substantially stain-resistant, preferably by exposing the textile to at least least one bath chosen from a solution of perfluorocarbons and/or a solution of silicone compounds.

[Claim 4] A process (10) for manufacturing a textile according to claim 3, wherein the chemical functionalization (10-3) of the textile comprises exposing the textile to a solution of perfluorocarbons and/or silicone compounds during a step comprising at least one operation of: padding, exhaustion, licking, spraying, sol-gel treatment, plasma treatment, and coating, followed by crosslinking of the textile.

[Claim s] A process (10) for manufacturing textile according to claim 3, in which the chemical functionalization (10-3) of the textile comprises the following consecutive steps:

- first step of functionalizing the textile comprising exposing the textile to a solution of perfluorocarbons during at least one operation of: padding, exhaustion, licking, spraying, sol-gel treatment, plasma treatment, and coating, followed by crosslinking of the textile, in order to obtain a textile having hydrophobic properties, and

- second step of functionalizing the textile comprising exposing the textile to a solution of silicone compounds during at least one operation of: padding, exhaustion, licking, spraying, sol-gel treatment, plasma treatment, and coating, followed by 'a reticulation of the textiie.

[Claim 6] Process (10) for manufacturing a textile according to one of the preceding claims, in which the chemical functionalization (10-3) of the textile comprises several exposures of the textile to different baths, the exposures being separated by at least one textile crosslinking step.

[Claim 7] A method (10) of making a textile according to any preceding claim, wherein obtaining (10-1) the dyed textile (12) comprises obtaining the dyed textile having anti-crease, preferably having a residual angle after bending greater than or equal to 130 degrees,

[Claim 8] A method (10) of manufacturing a textile according to any preceding claim, wherein bleaching (10-2) the textile comprises exposing the textile (12) to a solution of hydrogen peroxide and/or or to a solution of caustic soda, preferably to a solution comprising between 6 g/l and 12 g/l, preferably 8.4 g/l, of 35% concentrated hydrogen peroxide, and between 2 g/l and 6g/l, preferably 4g/l, of caustic soda.

[Claim 9] A method (10) of manufacturing a textile according to any preceding claim, wherein the dyed textile (12) is obtained from dyed yarns.

[Claim 10] Process (10) for manufacturing textiles according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the dyed textile (12) has been obtained after a first stage of bleaching prior to dyeing.

[Claim 11] A method (10) of manufacturing a textile according to any preceding claim, wherein the dyed textile (12) comprises a majority by mass of cotton fibers, preferably wherein the dyed textile (12) comprises only cotton fibers. [Claim 12] A method (10) of manufacturing a textile according to any preceding claim, wherein the dyed textile

(12) comprises a minority by mass of synthetic fibers, preferably fibers chosen from eiasthanne filaments, polyamide fibers and polyester fibers.

[Claim 13] A method (10) of manufacturing a textile according to any preceding claim, wherein the dyed textile (12) has been subjected to a mercerizing step comprising exposing the dyed textile to a solution of caustic soda or of liquid ammonia.

[Claim 14] A method (10) of manufacturing a textile according to any preceding claim, wherein the dyed textile (12) is of a color whose LABCIE1978 L-parameter exceeds 60, measured spectrometrically,

[Claim 15] Functionalized dyed textile (14) obtained according to the method (10 ⁾ of any one of the preceding claims.

[Claim 16] The functionalized dyed fabric (14) according to the preceding claim, wherein the fabric is a dyed shirting fabric made entirely of hydrophobic cotton.

[Claim 17] Functionalized dyed textile (14) according to the preceding claim, in which the textile has a residual angle after folding greater than or equal to 130 degrees, preferably greater than or equal to 135 degrees, even more preferably greater than or equal to 140 degrees, even more preferably greater than or equal to 145 degrees, and even more preferably greater than or equal to 150 degrees, measured according to the ISO 2313:1972 standard after having been exposed to 4 machine wash cycles according to the ISO 6330 standard,

[Claim 18] Functionalized dyed textile (14) according to the preceding claim, in which the textile has a residual angle after folding greater than or equal to 130 degrees, preferably greater than or equal to 135 degrees, even more preferably greater than or equal to 140 degrees, even more preferably greater than or equal to 145 degrees, and even more preferably greater than or equal to 148 degrees, measured according to the ISO 2313:1972 standard after having been exposed to 7 machine wash cycles according to the ISO 6330 standard,

[Claim 19] Functionalized dyed textile (14) according to the preceding claim, in which the textile has a residual angle after folding greater than or equal to 130 degrees, preferably greater than or equal to 135 degrees, even more preferably greater than or equal to 140 degrees, even more preferably greater than or equal to 145 degrees, measured according to the ISO 2313:1972 standard after having been exposed to 20 machine wash cycles according to the ISO 6330 standard.

[Claim 20] Functionalized dyed textile (14) according to the preceding claim, in which the textile has a residual angle after folding greater than or equal to 130 degrees, preferably greater than or equal to 135 degrees, even more preferably greater than or equal to 140 degrees, measured under ISO 2313:1972 after being exposed to 40 machine wash cycles under ISO 6330.

[Claim 21] Fully dyed shirting fabric (15) of hydrophobic cotton according to one of claims 17 to 20, wherein the fabric exhibits a spray test result of at least 3 measured according to the ISO 4920 standard, preferably of at least 4 measured according to the ISO 4920 standard, and even more preferably of 5 measured according to the ISO 4920 standard.

[Claim 22] Fully dyed shirt textile (15) of hydrophobic cotton according to one of Claims 16 to 21, in which the textile has a weight between 80 and 220 grams per m2, in particular between 80 and 170 grams per m2, in particular between 80 and 160 grams per m2, in particular between 80 and 150 grams per m2, in particular between 80 and 140 grams per m2.

[Claim 23] Use of a bleaching solution to increase the hold of a chemical functionalization (10-3) on a dyed textile (12), the textile preferably being a fabric or a knit and comprising a majority by mass of natural fibers, preferably cellulosic fibers, preferably cotton fibers, the bleaching solution not altering the dyeing of the dyed textile.