WO2022150951A1

WO2022150951A1 - Biphase composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials

Info

Publication number: WO2022150951A1
Application number: PCT/CN2021/071200
Authority: WO
Inventors: Lingwei XU
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2021-01-12
Filing date: 2021-01-12
Publication date: 2022-07-21
Anticipated expiration: 2023-07-12
Also published as: CN116744888A; FR3118701B1; FR3118701A1

Abstract

It relates to a biphase composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials consisting of an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate, the composition comprising: a) at least one C8-C12 branched alkane; b) at least one C13-C18 branched alkane; c) at least 0.15 wt. %of at least one surfactant selected from alkyl polyglucosides of formula (I), relative to the total weight of the composition, R-O-G x ' (I) wherein R is a C 6-C 12 alkyl group, G is a moiety derived from reducing saccharide containing from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, x' is average degree of polymerisation of the alkyl polyglucoside from 1 to 10; and d) at least one divalent metal salt, wherein the weight ratio of the C8-C12 branched alkane to the C13-C18 branched alkane is from 30: 70 to 90: 10 and the composition is silicone-free. It also relates to a process for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising shaking the composition to form an emulsion, applying the emulsion to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, and rinsing off said composition after an optional period of time.

Description

BIPHASE COMPOSITION FOR CLEANSING AND/OR REMOVING MAKEUPS FROM KERATIN MATERIALS

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular, a biphase composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials. The present invention also relates to a process for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials using said composition.

BACKGROUD ART

Cleansing the skin or removing makeups from the skin is very important for caring for the skin. It must be as efficient as possible because greasy residues, such as excess sebum, the remnants of cosmetic products used daily and make-up products, in particular waterproof products, accumulate in the skin folds, and can block the pores of the skin and result in the appearance of spots.

Several types of skin cleansing or makeup removing products, for example, rinsable anhydrous oils and gels, foaming creams and lotions, as well as biphase makeup removers, are known.

Compositions consisting of two separate phases, in particular, an aqueous phase and a fatty phase which are separate, are generally referred to as "biphase compositions" . Biphase compositions appeal to consumers on account of their pearly appearance. The two phases are separate at rest by a single interface.

The use, in biphase compositions, of silicone oils such as cyclopentasiloxane, for example, in a suitable amount may make it possible to obtain biphase compositions consisting of two separate immiscible phases which form, after shaking, an emulsion, while keeping the desired properties for the biphase compositions, i.e. rapid phase separation into two transparent phases.

Biphase compositions based on cyclic silicone oils have already been described, for example in documents EP 0 370 856 and EP 0 603 080, especially for removing eye makeup.

Moreover, consumers are increasingly in search of cosmetic products formed on the basis of natural constituents or constituents of natural origin, in particular products not comprising any volatile silicone compounds.

The skilled in the art have made efforts to develop “silicone oil free” biphase makeup removers. For example, they have tried to use branched alkane, for example isododecane instead of silicone oil. However, mixing and separating of the two phases of the biphase products containing branched alkane is difficult, therefore, the biphase products are not easy to be emulsified due to higher surface tension, and the separation time is longer and the interface between the aqueous phase and the oily phase is not sharp due to the formation of stable emulsion, and there will be droplets on the inside wall of the containers for the biphase products.

Therefore, there is a need to formulate silicone-free biphase makeup removers, which are easy to form an emulsion upon shaking and demonstrate good makeup removability, the two phases can start to separate quickly and separate completely, meanwhile, there is no droplets on the inside wall of containers therefor and no greasy feeling upon application.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The inventors have found that such a need can be achieved by the present invention.

Thus, according to an aspect, the present invention provides a biphase composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials consisting of an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate, the composition comprising:

a) at least one C8-C12 branched alkane;

b) at least one C13-C18 branched alkane;

c) at least 0.15 wt. %of at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl polyglucosides of formula (I) , relative to the total weight of the composition,

R-O-G _x’ (I)

wherein

R is a C6-C12 alkyl group,

G is a moiety derived from reducing saccharide containing from 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

x’ is average degree of polymerisation of the alkyl polyglucoside from 1 to 10; and

d) at least one divalent metal salt,

wherein the weight ratio of the C8-C12 branched alkane to the C13-C18 branched alkane is from 30: 70 to 90: 10 and the composition is silicone-free.

The composition according to the present invention is easy to form an emulsion upon shaking, for example after gentle shaking for 10 times.

The composition according to the present invention can demonstrate good makeup removability, especially for water-proof products, for example, lipsticks, mascaras, eye liners, and water-proof foundations.

The composition according to the present invention can start to separate into two phases after 10 minutes’ standing, and a clear aqueous phase, a clear oily phase and a sharp interface between the aqueous phase and the oily phase can be observed within 24 hours after being still, even after being subjected to a 5 days’ cycle of once shaking per 24 hours, meanwhile, there is no droplets on the inside wall of containers therefor.

In addition, the composition according to the present invention also provides a good skin finish (i.e. fresh feeling) after application.

The composition according to the present invention may be used for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, in particular, the skin, especially the face, the lips and/or the eyes.

According to another aspect, the present invention provides a process for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising shaking the composition according to the present invention to form an emulsion, applying the emulsion to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, and rinsing off said composition after an optional period of time.

Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.

In that which follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within this range, in particular in the expressions "between…and…" and "ranging from... to... " .

Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more" .

Throughout the instant application, the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. “consisting of” ) .

Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired purpose as required.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “keratin material” is intended to cover human skin. The face, the lips and the eyes are most particularly considered according to the present invention.

By "an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate" , it means that the aqueous phase and the oily phase are visible one on top of the other before shaking. The two phases may or may not be coloured.

By "silicone-free" , it means that the content of the silicone in the composition is less than 2 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably the composition does not comprise any silicone.

All percentages in the present invention refer to weight percentage, unless otherwise specified.

According to an aspect, the present invention relates to a biphase composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials consisting of an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate, the composition comprising:

a) at least one C8-C12 branched alkane;

b) at least one C13-C18 branched alkane;

R-O-G _x’ (I)

wherein

R is a C6-C12 alkyl group,

d) at least one divalent metal salt,

Branched alkanes

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one C8-C12 branched alkane and at least one C13-C18 branched.

As examples of C8-C12 branched alkane, mention can be made of 2, 2, 4-trimethylpentane, isooctane, isononane, isodecane, isoundecane, isododecane, and mixtures thereof.

As a commercial product of C8-C12 branched alkanes, mention can be made of isododecane sold by the company Ineos.

As examples of C13-C18 branched alkanes, mention can be made of isotridecane, isotetradecane, isopentadecane, isohexadecane, isoheptadecane, isooctadecane, and mixtures thereof.

As commercial products of C13-C18 branched alkanes, mention can be made of, the isoparaffins sold under the trade name Isopar M by the company Exxon Chemical and isohexadecane sold by the company Ineos.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the C8-C12 branched alkane and C13-C18 branched alkane as the only oils.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a combination of isododecane and isohexadecane.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a combination of isododecane and isohexadecane as the only oils.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, as the only oils, a combination of isododecane and isohexadecane at a weight ratio from 30: 70 to 70: 30, preferably from 40: 60 to 60: 40.

Advantageously, the total amount of the C8-C12 branched alkane (s) and the C13-C18 branched alkane ranges from 10 wt. %to 90 wt. %, preferably from 30 wt. %to 70 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the C8-C12 branched alkane is present in an amount ranging from 12 wt. %to 36 wt. %, preferably from 16 wt. %to 24 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the C13-C18 branched alkane is present in an amount ranging from 4 wt. %to 28 wt. %, preferably from 16 wt. %to 24 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Alkyl polyglucosides

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl polyglucoside of formula (I) :

R-O-G _x’ (I)

Wherein

R is a C6-C12 alkyl group,

G is a moiety derived from a reducing saccharide containing from 5 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a glucose unit, and

x’ represents the average degree of polymerisation of the alkyl polyglucoside from 1 to 10.

Preferably, R is a C6-C10 alkyl group.

For a particular alkyl polysaccharide molecule, x’ can only assume integral values. In any physical sample of alkyl polyglucosides, there will generally be molecules having different values of x’. The physical sample can be characterized by the average value of x’, which can assume non-integral values. In the specification, the values of x’ are to be understood to be average values.

The polysaccharide hydrophilic portion of the alkyl polyglucoside contains from about 1 to about 10, preferably from 1.4 to 3, saccharide units on the average. The saccharide unit may be galactoside, glucoside, lactoside, fructoside, glucosyl, fructosyl, lactosyl, and/or galactosyl units, and preferably glucoside unit. Mixtures of these saccharide moieties may be used in the alkyl poly saccharide. Glucoside is the preferred saccharide moiety.

The hydrophobic group on the alkyl polyglucoside is an alkyl group, linear or branched, containing from about 6 to about 12 carbon atoms on average. Preferably the alkyl group is primarily a straight chain C6-C10 alkyl group.

Useful alkyl polyglucosides of the present invention are also disclosed in U.S. Patent 4,565,647, Llenado, issued January 21, 1986, having a hydrophobic group containing from about 6 to about 12 carbon atoms, preferably from about 6 to about 10 carbon atoms and a polysaccharide, e.g., a polyglycoside, hydrophilic group containing from about 1.3 to about 10, preferably from about 1.3 to about 3, most preferably from about 1.3 to about 2.7 saccharide units. Any reducing saccharide containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms can be used, e.g., glucose, galactose and galactosyl moieties can be substituted for the glucosyl moieties (optionally the hydrophobic group is attached at the 2-, 3, 4-, etc positions thus giving a glucose or galatose as opposed to a glucoside or galactoside) . The intersaccharide bonds can be, e.g., between the one position of the additional saccharide units and the 2-, 3-, 4-, and/or 6-positions on the preceding saccharide units.

Preferably, in formula (I) :

R is a C8-C10 alkyl group,

G is selected from galactoside, glucoside, lactoside, fructoside, glucosyl, fructosyl, lactosyl, and galactosyl units,

x’ is from 1.4 to 3.

Examples of alkyl polyglucoside include but are not limited to: caprylyl/capryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, and octyl glucoside.

Typically, the non-ionic surfactant is selected from caprylyl/capryl glucoside, octyl glucoside, and decyl glucoside.

The preferred alkyl polyglucosides are available under the trade name, for example:

For decyl glucoside:

2000 UP sold by Cognis,

For caprylyl/capryl glucoside: Oramix ^TM CG 110 sold by Seppic,

For octyl glucoside: Rewosan sold by Rewo.

Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl polyglucosides is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.15 wt. %to 1.2 wt. %, preferably from 0.3 wt. %to 0.9 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Metal salts

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one divalent metal salt.

The divalent metal salt comprises a metal ion M ⁿ⁺. Preferably, M ⁿ⁺is selected from Mg ²⁺, Ca ²⁺, Zn ²⁺, Fe ²⁺, Mn ²⁺, and Cu ²⁺.

The metal salt is selected from metal salts of an organic acid or an inorganic acid.

As example of organic acid, mention can be made of ascorbic acid, formic acid, acetic acid, glycolic acid, gluconic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, oxalic acid, maleic acid, malonic acid, glyoxylic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, fumaric acid, sebacic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, tricarboxylic acid, glutaric acid, glucaric acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, phenol sulfonic acid, salicylic acid, etc.

As example of inorganic acid, mention can be made of sulfuric acid, carbonic acid, silicic acid, hydrochloric acid, nitric acid, phosphoric acid, etc.

Preferably, metal salts of an inorganic acid are selected from metal chlorides, sulfates, nitrates, carbonates and hydrogen carbonates, phosphates, silicates, and mixtures thereof, wherein the metal is selected from Mg, Ca, Zn, Mn, Cu, and Fe.

More preferably, metal salts of an inorganic acid are selected from calcium chloride, calcium sulfate, calcium nitrate, calcium carbonate and calcium hydrogen carbonate, calcium phosphate, zinc chloride, zinc sulfate, zinc nitrate, zinc carbonate and zinc hydrogen carbonate, zinc phosphate, magnesium chloride, magnesium sulfate, magnesium nitrate, magnesium carbonate and magnesium hydrogen carbonate, magnesium phosphate, magnesium aluminum silicate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, metal salts of an organic acid are selected from metal ascorbates, formates, acetates, glycolates, gluconates, lactates, mandelates, oxalates, maleates, malonates, glyoxylates, succinates, adipates, fumarates, sebacates, citrates, tartarates, malates, tricarboxylates, glutarates, glucarates, pyrrolidone carboxylates, phenolsulfonate, salicylates, and mixtures thereof, wherein the metal is selected from Mg, Ca, Zn, Mn, Cu, and Fe.

More preferably, metal salts of an organic acid are selected from magnesium gluconate, magnesium PCA (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate) , magnesium acetate, calcium PCA, zinc lactate, zinc gluconate, zinc phenolsulfonate, zinc salicylate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (Zinc PCA) , zinc citrate, zinc ascorbate, copper PCA, copper gluconate, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the metal salt is selected from magnesium gluconate, magnesium PCA, magnesium sulfate, magnesium acetate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium aluminum silicate, calcium carbonate, calcium PCA, calcium chloride, calcium carbonate, zinc PCA, zinc gluconate, copper PCA, copper gluconate, and a mixture thereof.

Advantageously, the metal salt is present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.03 wt. %to 3 wt. %, preferably from 0.18 wt. %to 0.6 wt. %, more preferably from 0.36 wt. %to 0.48 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The inventors have found that with the combination of non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl polyglucoside and divalent metal salt as defined in the present application, quick separation of the aqueous phase and the oily phase can be achieved, meanwhile a clear aqueous phase, a clear oily phase, and a sharp interface between the aqueous phase and the oily phase can be observed within 24 hours after being still.

Aqueous phase

The composition of the present invention comprises an aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase of the composition according to the present invention comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, for instance C ₂-C ₈ polyols or monoalcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol.

The term “polyol” should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycols, for instance butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, glycerol (i.e. glycerin) and polyethylene glycols.

The aqueous phase may represent from 10 wt. %to 90 wt. %, preferably from 30 wt. %to 70 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Oily phase

The composition of the present invention comprises an oily phase.

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise at least one additional non-silicone oil other than the branched alkanes comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

The additional non-silicone oil (s) may be chosen from volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils other than the branched alkanes comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially from, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atoms; it may contain ester, ether, amine or amide groups.

The term “volatile” refers to a compound that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 ^-3 to 300 mmHg) , preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg) .

Examples of non-silicone oils that may be used in the composition of the invention include:

- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as perhydrosqualene, liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, coriander oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil;

- synthetic esters and ethers, especially of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, for instance the oils of formulae R ¹COOR ² and R ¹OR ² in which R ¹ represents a fatty acid residue containing from 7 to 29 carbon atoms and R ² represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, and fatty alkyl heptanoates, octanoates and decanoates; polyol esters, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, for instance pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;

- volatile or non-volatile, linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, and derivatives thereof, other than the branched alkanes comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, such as liquid petroleum jelly and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as

oil; volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms such as undecane or tridecane;

- fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol.

Preferably, the composition comprises at least one additional non-silicone oil chosen from the following hydrocarbon-based oils: fatty acid esters comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate or isocetyl stearate; linear hydrocarbons such as

oil and liquid petroleum jelly, volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms such as undecane or tridecane. Among the volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, mention may be made of alkanes such as those that are described in the Cognis patent applications WO 2007/068 371 or WO 2008/155 059 (mixtures of different alkanes differing by at least one carbon) . These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil.

As examples of linear alkanes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of n-heptane (C7) , n-octane (C8) , n-nonane (C9) , n-decane (C10) , n-undecane (C11) , n-dodecane (C12) , n-tridecane (C13) and n-tetradecane (C14) , and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is chosen from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane and n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof.

In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention does not comprise any additional non-silicone oil. In such embodiments, the composition comprises only oils chosen from branched alkanes comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, alone or as a mixture.

In some embodiments, the composition of the present invention comprises a ether or linear alkane to improve the skin sensory.

In the composition of the invention, all oils taken together, the total amount of oil (s) may range from 10 wt. %to 90 wt. %and preferably from 30 wt. %to 70 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The oily phase can comprise additional ingredients rather than the oil (s) , as mentioned later.

Advantageously, the oily phase represents from 10 wt. %to 90 wt. %, and preferably from 30 wt. %to 70 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional ingredients

The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more additional ingredients, selected from those conventionally used in skincare cleasners.

The composition in accordance with the present invention may comprise in the oily phase and/or the aqueous phase an additional ingredient selected from pH adjusting agents (e.g. citric acid) , additional surfactants, preservatives (e.g. hydroxyacetophenone, chlorphenesin) , fragrances (e.g. perfumes, essential oils) , and thickeners.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention does not comprise cationic preservative and cationic surfactant.

A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the present invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired properties of these compositions are not adversely affected by the additional ingredients.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a biphase composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials consisting of an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate, the composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

a) from 16 wt. %to 24 wt. %of at least one C8-C12 branched alkane;

b) from 16 wt. %to 24 wt. %of at least one C13-C18 branched alkane;

c) from 0.3 wt. %to 0.9 wt. %of at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from caprylyl/capryl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, and decyl glucoside; and

d) from 0.36 wt. %to 0.48 wt. %at least one divalent metal salt selected from magnesium gluconate, magnesium PCA, magnesium sulfate, magnesium acetate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium aluminum silicate, calcium carbonate, calcium PCA, calcium chloride, calcium carbonate, zinc PCA, zinc gluconate, copper PCA, copper gluconate, and a mixture thereof,

wherein the weight ratio of the C8-C12 branched alkane to the C13-C18 branched alkane is from 40: 60 to 90: 10 and the composition is silicone-free.

Galenic forms and use

The composition according to the present invention may be conditioned, in a known manner, in a bottle with a single compartment. The user must shake the bottle before pouring its contents onto a pad of cotton wool. The composition may also be conditioned in a bottle of "pump-action bottle" type.

It may be used as a daily facial cleanser and/or makeup remover. The composition of the present invention is a rinse-off product. Thus, such a composition can be applied on the skin (for example, the face, the lips, the eyes) , and then rinsed with flush water.

Thus, according to another aspect, the present invention provides a process for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising shaking the composition according to the present invention to form an emulsion, applying the emulsion to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, and rinsing off said composition after an optional period of time.

It was found that the composition according to the present invention is easy to form an emulsion upon shaking, for example after gentle shaking for 10 times.

In addition, the composition according to the present invention also provides a good skin finish (i.e. no greasy feeling) after application.

The present invention is illustrated in greater detail by the examples described below, which are given as non-limiting illustrations.

EXAMPLES

Main raw materials used, trade names and supplier thereof are listed in Table 1.

Table 1

Comparative Examples 1-5 and Invention Examples 1-2

Compositions of comparative examples (CE. ) 1-5 and invention examples (IE. ) 1-4 were prepared according to the amounts given in Table 2. The amount of each component is given in%by weight of the total weight of the phase containing it.

Table 2

Preparation process

The compositions were prepared as follows, taking the composition according to Invention Example 1 as an example.

Firstly, the oily phase and the aqueous phase were prepared individually.

Oily phase:

Mixing isododecane and isohexadecane under 40℃;

Aqueous phase:

1. Adding water and caprylyl/capryl glucoside to a main beaker, and heat to 45℃;

2. Adding calcium chloride with stirring;

3. Adding preservatives one by one with stirring;

4. Cooling down to room temperature.

Then, the oily phase and the aqueous phase were combined together at desired weight ration to obtain the biphase composition.

Evaluation of compositions

The compositions prepared above were evaluated.

Mixing easiness

A 50ml PET bottle was used to contain 70%by volume of the composition tested, then was shake up-down within 10 cm at a frequency of 2 times/sec, meanwhile, the times needed to get the composition well mixed (i.e. there is white foams on the top of the composition) was counted.

Makeup removability

The test was carried out on both face and front arm by 6 volunteers as follows:

1. Apply makeups on a forearm or the face according to the following standards:

a) a 5cm line for water-proof products:

a water-proof mascara sold under the name Hyper Curl from the company Maybelline,

an eye liner sold under the name Hyper Sharp Liner from the company Maybelline,

a long lasting lipstick sold under the name SUPERSTAY matte ink from the company Maybelline;

b) 0.05g a water-proof foundation sold under the name FIT ME Matte from the company Maybelline to 2 cm x 5 cm rectangle.

2. After air drying for half an hour, the biphase composition tested was shaked and applied on a cotton pad, put the cotton pad on the makeup for 10 seconds, and swipe it.

3. Count how many times of wiping needed for the makeups to be removed completely.

4. Rate the removability according to the times of wiping needed for the makeups to be removed remove completely according to the following standards.

Rate	The times of wiping
Very good	1-5
Good	6-10
Normal	11-15
Bad	16-20
Very Bad	20-25

Skin feeling (greasiness)

The skin feeling was evaluated by the 6 volunteers by following the same process for testing the makeup removability. A score within a range of 1-5 was given, wherein:

1 means a very greasy feeling;

2 means a relative greasy feeling;

3 means a non-greasy and non-fresh feeling;

4 means a relative fresh feeling;

5 means a very fresh feeling.

Complete Separation

The composition tested was slightly shaked till the oily and aqueous phases were well mixed. Then the mixed composition remained standing for 24 hours. Then the oily phase, the aqueous phase, and the interface of the two phases were observed and rated as follows. Such procedure was repeated for 5 times, then the oily phase, the aqueous phase, and the interface of the two phases were observed and rated as follows.

Appearance of the inside wall of the container after 24 hours’ standing

The inside wall of the container containing the composition tested was observed when the whole package was standing for 24 hours and rated.

Rate	Appearance of the inside wall of the container
Very good	No droplet/line on the inside wall
Good	Very small droplet/line on the inside wall
Acceptable	Visible but small droplet/line on the inside wall
Bad	Big droplet/line on the inside wall

The results of the evaluations were summarized in Table 3.

Table 3

It was found that each composition of invention formulas 1-4 is easy to form an emulsion upon shaking and demonstrate good makeup removability.

In addition, each composition of invention formulas 1-4 also provides a good skin finish (i.e. fresh feeling) after application.

It was found that each composition of invention formulas 1-4 can start to separate into two phases after 10 minutes’ standing, and the clear aqueous phase, the clear oily phase and the sharp interface can be observed within 24 hours after being still, even after being subjected to a 5 days’ cycle of once shaking per 24 hours, meanwhile, there is no droplets on the inside wall of containers therefor.

Claims

A biphase composition for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials consisting of an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate, the composition comprising:

a) at least one C8-C12 branched alkane,

b) at least one C13-C18 branched alkane;

c) at least 0.15 wt. %of at least one non-ionic surfactant selected from alkyl polyglucosides of formula (I) , relative to the total weight of the composition,

R-O-G _x’ (I)

wherein

R is a C ₆-C ₁₂ alkyl group,

G is a moiety derived from reducing saccharide containing from 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

x’ is average degree of polymerisation of the alkyl polyglucoside from 1 to 10; and

d) at least one divalent metal salt,

wherein the weight ratio of the C8-C12 branched alkane to the C13-C18 branched alkane is from 30: 70 to 90: 10 and the composition is silicone-free.
The composition according to claim 1, wherein the C8-C12 branched alkane is selected from isooctane, isononane, isodecane, isoundecane, isododecane, and mixtures thereof.
The composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the C13-C18 branched alkane is selected from isotridecane, isotetradecane, isopentadecane, isohexadecane, isoheptadecane, isooctadecane, and mixtures thereof.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the composition comprises the C8-C12 branched alkane and the C13-C18 branched alkane as the only oils.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the total amount of the C8-C12 branched alkane and the C13-C18 branched alkane ranges from 10 wt. %to 90 wt. %, preferably from 40 wt. %to 60 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein in formula (I) :

R is a C ₆-C ₁₀ alkyl group,

G is selected from galactoside, glucoside, lactoside, fructoside, glucosyl, fructosyl, lactosyl, and galactosyl units,

x’ is from 1.4 to 3.
The composition accordingto any of claims 1-6, wherein the alkyl polyglucoside is selected from caprylyl/capryl glucoside, and decyl glucoside.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the surfactant selected from alkyl polyglucosides is present in an amount ranging from 0.15 wt. %to 1.2 wt. %, preferably from 0.3 wt. %to 0.9 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the metal salt comprises a metal ion M ⁿ⁺ selected from Mg ²⁺, Ca ²⁺, Zn ²⁺, Fe ²⁺, Mn ²⁺, and Cu ²⁺.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the metal salt is selected from magnesium gluconate, magnesium PCA, magnesium sulfate, magnesium acetate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium aluminum silicate, calcium carbonate, calcium PCA, calcium chloride, calcium carbonate, zinc PCA, zinc gluconate, copper PCA, copper gluconate, and a mixture thereof.
The composition accordingto any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the metal salt is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.03 wt. %to 3 wt. %, preferably from 0.18 wt. %to 0.6 wt. %, more preferably from 0.36 wt. %to 0.48 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition accordingto any one of claims 1 to 10, further comprising in the oily phase and/or the aqueous phase an additional ingredient selected from pH adjusting agents, additional surfactants, preservatives, fragrances, and thickeners.
The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the aqueous phase represents from 10 wt. %to 90 wt. %, preferably from 40 wt. %to 60 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The composition according to claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

a) from 16 wt. %to 24 wt. %of at least one C8-C12 branched alkane;

b) from 16 wt. %to 24 wt. %of at least one C13-C18 branched alkane;

c) from 0.3 wt. %to 0.9 wt. %of at least one non-ionic surfactant is selected from caprylyl/capryl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, and decyl glucoside; and

d) from 0.36 wt. %to 0.48 wt. %at least one divalent metal salt selected from magnesium gluconate, magnesium PCA, magnesium sulfate, magnesium acetate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium aluminum silicate, calcium carbonate, calcium PCA, calcium chloride, calcium carbonate, zinc PCA, zinc gluconate, copper PCA, copper gluconate, and a mixture thereof,

wherein the weight ratio of the C8-C12 branched alkane to the C13-C18 branched alkane is from 40: 60 to 90: 10 and the composition is silicone-free.
A process for cleansing and/or removing makeups from keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising shaking the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 to form an emulsion, applying the emulsion to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, and rinsing off said composition after an optional period of time.