CN116744888A - Dual phase composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials - Google Patents

Dual phase composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials Download PDF

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Publication number
CN116744888A
CN116744888A CN202180090348.2A CN202180090348A CN116744888A CN 116744888 A CN116744888 A CN 116744888A CN 202180090348 A CN202180090348 A CN 202180090348A CN 116744888 A CN116744888 A CN 116744888A
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composition
branched alkane
magnesium
group
pca
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许令玮
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/14Preparations for removing make-up
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/03Liquid compositions with two or more distinct layers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/27Zinc; Compounds thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31Hydrocarbons
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/604Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The present application relates to a biphasic composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, consisting of a separated aqueous phase and an oily phase, comprising: a) At least one C8-C12 branched alkane; b) At least one C13-C18 branched alkane; c) At least 0.15 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of alkyl polyglycosides of formula (I), R-O-G x’ (I) Wherein R is C 6 ‑C 12 Alkyl, G is a moiety derived from a reducing sugar containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms, x' is the average degree of polymerization of the alkylpolyglycoside of 1 to 10; and d) at least one divalent metal salt, wherein the weight ratio of C8-C12 branched alkane to C13-C18 branched alkane is 30:70 to 90:10, and the composition is silicone-free. The application also relates to a method for cleaning and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising shaking the composition to form an emulsion, applying the emulsion to keratin materials, in particular the skinAnd rinsing the composition after an optional period of time.

Description

Dual phase composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials
Technical Field
The present application relates to cosmetic compositions, in particular to a dual phase composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials. The application also relates to a method for cleaning and/or removing makeup from keratin materials using said composition.
Background
Cleaning the skin or removing makeup from the skin is very important for caring for the skin. It must be as effective as possible because greasy residues, such as excess sebum, cosmetic residues for daily use and make-up products, in particular waterproof products, accumulate in skin folds and can clog pores of the skin and cause spots to appear.
Several types of skin cleansing or makeup removal products are known, such as flushable anhydrous oils and gels, foam creams and lotions, and dual phase makeup removers.
Compositions consisting of two separate phases (in particular a separate aqueous phase and a fatty phase) are generally referred to as "biphasic compositions". Biphasic compositions are attractive to consumers due to their pearl-like appearance. The two phases are separated by a single interface when at rest.
The use of silicone oil (such as, for example, cyclopentadimethicone) in suitable amounts in the biphasic composition makes it possible to obtain a biphasic composition consisting of two separate immiscible phases which, after shaking, form an emulsion while maintaining the desired properties of the biphasic composition, i.e. rapid phase separation into two clear phases.
Biphasic compositions based on cyclic silicone oils have been described, for example, in documents EP 0370856 and EP 0603080, in particular for the removal of make-up from the eye.
Furthermore, consumers are increasingly seeking cosmetics formed based on natural ingredients or ingredients of natural origin, in particular products that do not contain any volatile silicone compounds.
Those skilled in the art have struggled to develop "silicone oil free" dual phase make-up removers. For example, they have attempted to use branched alkanes (e.g., isododecane) instead of silicone oils. However, the mixing and separation of the two phases of the biphasic product containing branched paraffins is difficult, and therefore the biphasic product is not easily emulsified due to the high surface tension and the separation time is longer, and the interface between the aqueous phase and the oil phase is not clear due to the formation of a stable emulsion and droplets will be present on the inner walls of the vessel of the biphasic product.
Thus, there is a need to formulate silicone-free two-phase make-up remover that readily forms an emulsion upon shaking and exhibits good make-up removal capability, the two phases can quickly begin to separate and completely separate, while there are no droplets on the inner walls of the container for it, and no greasy feel upon application.
Summary of The Invention
The inventors have found that such a need can be met by the present application.
Thus, according to one aspect, the present application provides a dual phase composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, consisting of a separate aqueous phase and an oil phase, comprising:
a) At least one C8-C12 branched alkane;
b) At least one C13-C18 branched alkane;
c) At least 0.15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of alkylpolyglycosides (alkyl polyglucoside) of formula (I),
R-O-G x’ (I)
wherein the method comprises the steps of
R is a C6-C12 alkyl group,
g is a moiety derived from a reducing sugar containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
x' is an average degree of polymerization of the alkylpolyglycoside of from 1 to 10; and
d) At least one of the salts of a divalent metal,
wherein the weight ratio of C8-C12 branched alkane to C13-C18 branched alkane is 30:70 to 90:10, and the composition is silicone-free.
The composition according to the application is prone to form an emulsion upon shaking (e.g. after 10 gentle shaking).
The composition according to the present application may exhibit good makeup removal, especially for waterproof products such as lipsticks, mascaras, eyeliners and waterproof foundations.
The composition according to the application can start to separate into two phases after 10 minutes of standing and within 24 hours after standing, a clear aqueous phase, a clear oil phase and a clear interface between aqueous and oil phases can be observed even after a cycle of shaking every 24 hours of 5 days, while there are no droplets on the inner wall of the container for it.
In addition, the composition according to the application provides a good skin finish (i.e. freshness) after application.
The composition according to the application can be used for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, in particular the skin, especially the face, the lips and/or the eyes.
According to a further aspect, the present application provides a method for cleaning and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising shaking a composition according to the application to form an emulsion, applying the emulsion to keratin materials, in particular the skin, and rinsing the composition after an optional period of time.
Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present application will become even more apparent upon reading the following description and examples.
Detailed Description
Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this application belongs. When a definition of a term in this specification conflicts with a meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present application pertains, the definition set forth herein shall apply.
In the following, and unless otherwise indicated, the upper and lower limits of the numerical ranges are included in the ranges, particularly in the expressions "between … … and … …" and "ranges … … to … …".
Furthermore, the expression "at least one" as used in the present specification is equivalent to the expression "one or more".
Throughout this disclosure, the term "comprising" should be interpreted to cover all the specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features. As used herein, use of the term "comprising" also discloses embodiments in which no feature other than (i.e., "consisting of") the specifically mentioned feature is present.
Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and so forth used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters set forth herein are approximations that can vary as desired by the desired purposes.
For the purposes of the present application, the term "keratin materials" is intended to cover the human skin. The face, lips and eyes are most particularly contemplated according to the present application.
By "separate aqueous and oil phases" is meant that the aqueous and oil phases are visible one above the other prior to shaking. The two phases may be colored or may be uncolored.
By "silicone-free" is meant that the silicone content of the composition is less than 2 wt.% relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably the composition does not comprise any silicone.
All percentages in the present application refer to weight percentages unless otherwise indicated.
According to one aspect, the present application relates to a biphasic composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, consisting of a separated aqueous phase and an oily phase, comprising:
a) At least one C8-C12 branched alkane;
b) At least one C13-C18 branched alkane;
c) At least 0.15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of alkyl polyglycosides of formula (I),
R-O-G x, (I)
wherein the method comprises the steps of
R is a C6-C12 alkyl group,
g is a moiety derived from a reducing sugar containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
x' is an average degree of polymerization of the alkylpolyglycoside of from 1 to 10; and
d) At least one divalent metal salt, wherein the weight ratio of C8-C12 branched alkane to C13-C18 branched alkane is 30:70 to 90:10, and the composition is silicone-free.
Branched alkane
The composition according to the application comprises at least one C8-C12 branched alkane and at least one C13-C18 branched (alkane).
As examples of C8-C12 branched alkanes, mention may be made of 2, 4-trimethylpentane, isooctane, isononane, isodecane, isoundecane, isododecane, and mixtures thereof.
As commercial products of the C8-C12 branched alkanes, isododecane sold by Ineos corporation may be mentioned.
As examples of C13-C18 branched alkanes, isotridecyl, isotetradecane, isopentadecyl, isohexadecane, isoheptadecyl, isooctadecyl, and mixtures thereof may be mentioned.
As commercial products of C13-C18 branched paraffins, mention may be made of the isoparaffins sold under the trade name Isopar M by Exxon Chemical company and the isohexadecane sold by Ineos company.
Preferably, the composition according to the application comprises C8-C12 branched paraffins and C13-C18 branched paraffins as the only oils.
Preferably, the composition according to the application comprises a combination of isododecane and isohexadecane.
Preferably, the composition according to the application comprises a combination of isododecane and isohexadecane as the only oil.
Preferably, the composition according to the application comprises as the only oil a combination of isododecane and isohexadecane in a weight ratio of from 30:70 to 70:30, preferably from 40:60 to 60:40.
Advantageously, the total amount of C8-C12 branched paraffins and C13-C18 branched paraffins ranges from 10% to 90% by weight, preferably from 30% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, the C8-C12 branched alkane is present in an amount ranging from 12% to 36% by weight, preferably from 16% to 24% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Advantageously, the C13-C18 branched alkane is present in an amount ranging from 4% to 28% by weight, preferably from 16% to 24% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Alkyl polyglycosides
The composition according to the application comprises at least one nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of alkyl polyglycosides of formula (I):
R-O-G x, (I)
wherein the method comprises the steps of
R is a C6-C12 alkyl group,
g is a moiety derived from a reducing sugar containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a glucose unit, and
x' represents an average degree of polymerization of the alkyl polyglycosides of 1 to 10.
Preferably, R is a C6-C10 alkyl group.
For a particular alkyl polysaccharide molecule, x' may only represent an integer value. In any solid sample of alkylpolyglycoside, there will typically be molecules with different x' values. The entity sample may be characterized by an average value of x', which may exhibit a non-integer value. In this specification, the value of x' is to be understood as an average value.
The hydrophilic portion of the polysaccharide of the alkyl polyglycoside contains an average of from about 1 to about 10, preferably from 1.4 to 3 saccharide units. The sugar units may be galactoside, glucoside, lactoside, fructoside, glucosyl, fructosyl, lactosyl and/or galactosyl units, and preferably glucoside units. Mixtures of these sugar moieties can be used for the alkyl polysaccharide. Glucosides are the preferred sugar moiety.
The hydrophobic groups on the alkyl polyglycosides are straight or branched chain alkyl groups containing on average from about 6 to about 12 carbon atoms. Preferably, the alkyl group is predominantly a linear C6-C10 alkyl group.
Also disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 4,565,647 to Llenado, month 21 of 1986, are useful alkylpolyglycosides of the present application having hydrophobic groups containing from about 6 to about 12 carbon atoms, preferably from about 6 to about 10 carbon atoms, and polysaccharide (e.g., polyglycoside) hydrophilic groups containing from about 1.3 to about 10, preferably from about 1.3 to about 3, most preferably from about 1.3 to about 2.7 saccharide units. Any reducing sugar containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms may be used, e.g. glucose, galactose, and the galactosyl moiety may replace the glucosyl moiety (optionally the hydrophobic group is attached to the 2-, 3-, 4-allele, thereby giving glucose or galactose, instead of a glucoside or galactoside). The intersugar bond may be, for example, between one position of the additional saccharide unit and the 2-, 3-, 4-and/or 6-position on the preceding saccharide unit.
Preferably, in formula (I):
r is a C8-C10 alkyl group,
g is selected from the group consisting of galactoside, glucoside, lactoside, fructoside, glucosyl, fructosyl, lactosyl and galactosyl units, and x' is from 1.4 to 3.
Examples of alkyl polyglycosides include, but are not limited to: octyl/decyl glucoside, decyl glucoside and octyl glucoside.
Typically, the nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of octyl/decyl glucoside, octyl glucoside, and decyl glucoside.
Preferred alkyl polyglycosides are available, for example, under the following trade names:
for decyl glucoside: sold by Cognis2000UP,
For octyl/decyl glucoside: oramix sold by Seppic TM CG 110,
For octyl glucoside: rewosan sold by Rewo.
Preferably, the nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl polyglycosides is present in the composition according to the application in an amount ranging from 0.15% to 1.2% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 0.9% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Metal salts
The composition according to the application comprises at least one divalent metal salt.
The divalent metal salt comprises a metal ion M n+ . Preferably M n+ Selected from Mg 2+ 、Ca 2+ 、Zn 2+ 、Fe 2+ 、Mn 2+ And Cu 2+
The metal salt is selected from metal salts of organic or inorganic acids.
As examples of the organic acid, ascorbic acid, formic acid, acetic acid, glycolic acid, gluconic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, oxalic acid, maleic acid, malonic acid, glyoxylic acid, succinic acid, adipic acid, fumaric acid, sebacic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, tricarboxylic acid, glutaric acid, glucaric acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, phenolsulfonic acid, salicylic acid, and the like can be mentioned.
As examples of the inorganic acid, sulfuric acid, carbonic acid, silicic acid, hydrochloric acid, nitric acid, phosphoric acid, and the like can be mentioned.
Preferably, the metal salt of the inorganic acid is selected from the group consisting of chlorides, sulfates, nitrates, carbonates and bicarbonates of metals, phosphates, silicates, and mixtures thereof, wherein the metals are selected from the group consisting of Mg, ca, zn, mn, cu and Fe.
More preferably, the metal salt of the inorganic acid is selected from the group consisting of calcium chloride, calcium sulfate, calcium nitrate, calcium carbonate and calcium bicarbonate, calcium phosphate, zinc chloride, zinc sulfate, zinc nitrate, zinc carbonate and zinc bicarbonate, zinc phosphate, magnesium chloride, magnesium sulfate, magnesium nitrate, magnesium carbonate and magnesium bicarbonate, magnesium phosphate, magnesium aluminum silicate, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the metal salt of the organic acid is selected from the group consisting of ascorbates, formates, acetates, glycolates, gluconates, lactates, mandelates, oxalates, maleates, malonates, glyoxylates, succinates, adipates, fumarates, sebacates, citrates, tartrates, malates, tricarboxylates, glutarates, glucarates, pyrrolidone carboxylates, phenolsulfonates, salicylates, and mixtures thereof of a metal, wherein the metal is selected from Mg, ca, zn, mn, cu and Fe.
More preferably, the metal salt of an organic acid is selected from the group consisting of magnesium gluconate, magnesium PCA (magnesium ascorbyl phosphate), magnesium acetate, calcium PCA, zinc lactate, zinc gluconate, zinc phenolsulfonate, zinc salicylate, zinc pyrrolidone carboxylate (zinc PCA), zinc citrate, zinc ascorbate, copper PCA, copper gluconate, and mixtures thereof.
According to a preferred embodiment, the metal salt is selected from the group consisting of magnesium gluconate, magnesium PCA, magnesium sulfate, magnesium acetate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium aluminum silicate, calcium carbonate, calcium PCA, calcium chloride, calcium carbonate, zinc PCA, zinc gluconate, copper PCA, copper gluconate, and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, the metal salt is present in the composition according to the application in an amount ranging from 0.03% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.18% to 0.6% by weight, more preferably from 0.36% to 0.48% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The inventors have found that with a combination of a nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl polyglycosides as defined in the present application with a divalent metal salt, a rapid separation of the aqueous phase and the oil phase can be achieved while a clear aqueous phase, a clear oil phase and a clear interface between the aqueous phase and the oil phase can be observed within 24 hours after standing.
Aqueous phase
The composition of the present application comprises an aqueous phase.
The aqueous phase of the composition according to the application comprises water and optionally one or more water-miscible or at least partially water-miscible compounds, e.g. C 2 -C 8 Polyhydric alcohols or monohydric alcohols, for example ethanol, isopropanol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol.
The term "polyol" is understood to mean any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include diols such as butanediol, propanediol, dipropylene glycol, isopentane diol, hexanediol, octanediol, glycerol (i.e. glycerol) and polyethylene glycol.
The aqueous phase may comprise from 10% to 90% by weight, preferably from 30% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Oil phase
The compositions of the present application comprise an oil phase.
The composition according to the application may also comprise at least one additional non-silicone oil other than branched paraffins comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
The additional non-silicone oil may be selected from volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils other than branched alkanes containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms.
The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil that is substantially formed of, or even consists of, carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and that does not contain silicon or fluorine atoms; it may contain ester, ether, amine or amide groups.
The term "volatile" refers to compounds that evaporate in less than one hour when contacted with skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oils are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at room temperature, in particular have a non-zero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular have a pressure in the range from 0.13Pa to 40 000Pa (10 -3 To 300 mmHg), preferably in the range of 1.3Pa to 13 000Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferably in the range of 1.3Pa to 1300Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
Examples of non-silicone oils useful in the compositions of the present application include:
hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as perhydro squalene; liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as heptanoic acid or octanoic acid triglycerides; or, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, cucurbit oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, macadamia nut oil, arara oil (arara oil), coriander oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter;
synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, for example of formula R 1 COOR 2 And R is 1 OR 2 Wherein R is 1 Represents a fatty acid residue containing from 7 to 29 carbon atoms and R 2 Represents a straight-chain or branched hydrocarbon-based chain having 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, duck tail oil (purcellin oil), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, 2-octyldeca erucic acidDialkyl esters or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, and fatty alkyl heptanoic, caprylic and capric acid; polyhydric alcohol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate;
volatile or non-volatile, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, other than branched alkanes containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and derivatives thereof, such as liquid petrolatum and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such asAn oil; volatile linear alkanes containing 7 to 17 carbon atoms, such as undecane or tridecane;
fatty alcohols containing 8 to 26 carbon atoms which are liquid at room temperature, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol.
Preferably, the composition comprises at least one additional non-silicone oil selected from the following hydrocarbon-based oils: fatty acid esters containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as isodecyl pivalate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate or isocetyl stearate; straight chain hydrocarbons such asOils and liquid petrolatum, volatile linear alkanes containing 7 to 17 carbon atoms such as undecane or tridecane. Among the volatile linear alkanes comprising 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular 9 to 15 carbon atoms, and more in particular 11 to 13 carbon atoms, mention may be made of alkanes such as those described in patent application WO 2007/068 371 or WO 2008/155 059 of Cognis (mixtures of different alkanes differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, which are themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil.
As examples of linear alkanes suitable for use in the present application, mention may be made of n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13) and n-tetradecane (C14), and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is selected from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane and n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof.
In some embodiments, the compositions of the present application do not comprise any additional non-silicone oils. In such embodiments, the composition comprises only an oil selected from branched alkanes containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, alone or as a mixture.
In some embodiments, the compositions of the present application comprise ethers or linear alkanes to improve skin feel.
In the composition of the application, all the oils are taken together and the total amount of oil may range from 10% to 90% by weight, and preferably from 30% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The oil phase may contain additional ingredients other than oil, as mentioned later.
Advantageously, the oil phase represents from 10% to 90% by weight, and preferably from 30% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Additional ingredients
The composition according to the application may comprise one or more additional ingredients selected from those conventionally used in skin care cleansers.
The composition according to the application may comprise additional ingredients selected from pH-adjusting agents (e.g. citric acid), additional surfactants, preservatives (e.g. hydroxyacetophenone, chlorophenylglycol), fragrances (e.g. perfumes, essential oils) and thickeners in the oil phase and/or in the aqueous phase.
Preferably, the composition according to the application does not comprise a cationic preservative and a cationic surfactant.
The type and amount of additional ingredients present in the compositions according to the application can be adjusted by the person skilled in the art by means of conventional operations so that the desired properties of these compositions are not adversely affected by the additional ingredients.
According to a preferred embodiment, the present application provides a biphasic composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, consisting of a separated aqueous phase and an oily phase, comprising, with respect to the total weight of the composition:
a) 16 to 24 wt% of at least one C8-C12 branched alkane;
b) 16 to 24 wt% of at least one C13-C18 branched alkane;
c) 0.3 to 0.9 wt% of at least one nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of octyl/decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, and decyl glucoside; and
d) 0.36 to 0.48 weight percent of at least one divalent metal salt selected from the group consisting of magnesium gluconate, magnesium PCA, magnesium sulfate, magnesium acetate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium aluminum silicate, calcium carbonate, calcium PCA, calcium chloride, calcium carbonate, zinc PCA, zinc gluconate, copper PCA, copper gluconate, and mixtures thereof, wherein the weight ratio of C8-C12 branched alkane to C13-C18 branched alkane is 40:60 to 90:10 and the composition is free of silicone.
Galenic form and use
The composition according to the application can be conditioned in a known manner in bottles with a single compartment. The user must shake the bottle before pouring the bottle contents onto the batting. The composition may also be conditioned in "pump bottle" type bottles.
The composition according to the application can be used for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, in particular the skin, especially the face, the lips and/or the eyes.
It can be used as daily facial cleanser and/or makeup remover. The compositions of the present application are rinse-off products. Thus, such compositions can be applied to the skin (e.g., face, lips, eyes) and subsequently rinsed off with rinse water.
Thus, according to a further aspect, the present application provides a method for cleansing keratin materials, in particular the skin, and/or for removing makeup from keratin materials, comprising shaking a composition according to the application to form an emulsion, applying the emulsion to keratin materials, in particular the skin, and rinsing the composition after an optional period of time.
The composition according to the application was found to be prone to emulsion formation upon shaking, e.g. after 10 gentle shaking.
The composition according to the present application may exhibit good makeup removal, especially for waterproof products such as lipsticks, mascaras, eyeliners and waterproof foundations.
The composition according to the application can start to separate into two phases after 10 minutes of standing and within 24 hours after standing, a clear aqueous phase, a clear oil phase and a clear interface between aqueous and oil phases can be observed without droplets on the inner wall of the container for it even after a cycle of shaking every 24 hours of 5 days.
Furthermore, the composition according to the application provides a good skin finish (i.e. no greasy feel) after application.
The application is illustrated in more detail by the examples described below, given as non-limiting illustrations.
Examples
The main raw materials used, trade names and suppliers thereof are listed in table 1.
TABLE 1
Comparative examples 1 to 5 and inventive examples 1 to 2
Compositions of comparative examples (ce.) 1-5 and inventive examples (IE.) 1-4 were prepared according to the amounts given in table 2. The amount of each component is given in weight% of the total weight of the phase containing it.
TABLE 2
Preparation process
Taking the composition according to application example 1 as an example, the composition was prepared as follows.
First, an oil phase and an aqueous phase were separately prepared.
An oil phase:
mixing isododecane and isohexadecane at 40 ℃;
aqueous phase:
1. water and octyl/decyl glucoside were added to the main beaker and heated to 45 ℃;
2. adding calcium chloride under stirring;
3. adding preservative one by one under stirring;
4. cooled to room temperature.
Subsequently, the oil phase and the water phase are combined together in a desired weight ratio to obtain a biphasic composition.
Composition evaluation
The composition prepared above was evaluated.
Miscibility of
A 50 ml PET bottle was used to hold 70% by volume of the test composition, followed by shaking up and down at a frequency of 2 times/second within 10 cm, while counting the number of times required to thoroughly mix the composition (i.e. white foam was present on top of the composition).
Make-up removal capability
Tests were performed by 6 volunteers on both face and forearm as follows:
1. make-up is applied to the forearm or face according to the following criteria:
a) For the following waterproof products, 5 cm lines:
waterproof mascara sold under the name Hyper Curl by the company Maybeline,
an eye line sold by maybeline under the name Hyper Sharp Liner,
permanent lipsticks sold by Maybelline corporation under the name SUPERSTAY matte ink;
b) 0.05 g of waterproof foundation sold under the name FIT ME Matte by Maybeline, is a rectangle of 2 cm by 5 cm.
2. After half an hour of air drying, the tested biphasic composition was shaken and applied to a cotton pad, the cotton pad was placed on a make-up for 10 seconds, and the make-up was wiped.
3. The number of wipes required to completely remove the make-up is counted.
4. The makeup removal ability was rated according to the following criteria, based on the number of wipes required to completely remove the makeup to be removed.
Rating of Number of wipes
Very good 1-5
Good (good) 6-10
Normal state 11-15
Difference of difference 16-20
Very poor 20-25
Skin feel (greasy)
Skin feel was assessed by 6 volunteers by the same makeup removal ability test method. Scores in the range of 1-5 are given, wherein:
1 represents a very greasy feel;
2 represents a relatively greasy feel;
3 represents no greasy and no fresh feel;
4 represents a relatively fresh sensation;
5 represents a very fresh sensation.
Complete separation
The tested composition was gently shaken until the oil phase and the water phase were thoroughly mixed. The mixed composition was then left to stand for 24 hours. The interface of the oil phase, the water phase and the two phases was then observed and rated as follows. Such procedure was repeated 5 times, followed by observing the interface of the oil phase, the water phase and the two phases, and rating as follows.
Appearance of inner wall of container after 24 hours of standing
The inner walls of the container containing the tested composition were observed and rated when the entire package was left to stand for 24 hours.
Rating of Appearance of inner wall of container
Very good No drop/line on the inner wall
Good (good) Very small drops/lines on the inner wall
Acceptable for Visible but small droplets/lines on the inner wall
Difference of difference Large drops/lines on the inner wall
The evaluation results are summarized in table 3.
TABLE 3 Table 3
Each of the compositions of inventive formulations 1-4 was found to readily form an emulsion upon shaking and exhibited good make-up removal.
In addition, each of the compositions of inventive formulations 1-4 also provided a good skin finish (i.e., freshness sensation) after application.
It was found that each of the compositions of inventive formulations 1-4 began to separate into two phases after 10 minutes of standing and that within 24 hours after standing, a clear aqueous phase, clear oil phase and clear interface could be observed even after a cycle of shaking every 24 hours of 5 days had been applied, while at the same time there were no droplets on the inner walls of the container used therefor.

Claims (15)

1. A dual phase composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials, consisting of an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separated, said composition comprising:
a) At least one C8-C12 branched alkane;
b) At least one C13-C18 branched alkane;
c) At least 0.15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one nonionic surfactant selected from alkyl polyglycosides of formula (I),
R-O-G x’ (I)
wherein the method comprises the steps of
R is C 6 -C 12 An alkyl group, a hydroxyl group,
g is a moiety derived from a reducing sugar containing 5 to 6 carbon atoms,
x' is an average degree of polymerization of the alkylpolyglycoside of from 1 to 10; and
d) At least one of the salts of a divalent metal,
wherein the weight ratio of the C8-C12 branched alkane to the C13-C18 branched alkane is 30:70 to 90:10, and the composition is silicone-free.
2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the C8-C12 branched alkane is selected from the group consisting of isooctane, isononane, isodecane, isoundecane, isododecane, and mixtures thereof.
3. The composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the C13-C18 branched alkane is selected from the group consisting of isotridecyl, isotetradecane, isopentadecyl, isohexadecane, isoheptadecyl, isooctadecyl, and mixtures thereof.
4. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the composition comprises the C8-C12 branched alkane and the C13-C18 branched alkane as the only oils.
5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the total amount of C8-C12 branched paraffins and C13-C18 branched paraffins ranges from 10 wt% to 90 wt%, preferably from 40 wt% to 60 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein in formula (I):
r is C 6 -C 10 An alkyl group, a hydroxyl group,
g is selected from the group consisting of galactoside, glucoside, lactoside, fructoside, glucosyl, fructosyl, lactosyl and galactosyl units, and x' is from 1.4 to 3.
7. The composition of any one of claims 1-6, wherein the alkyl polyglycoside is selected from the group consisting of octyl/decyl glucoside and decyl glucoside.
8. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the surfactant selected from alkyl polyglycosides is present in an amount ranging from 0.15 to 1.2 wt%, preferably from 0.3 to 0.9 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the metal salt comprises a metal selected from Mg 2+ 、Ca 2+ 、Zn 2 + 、Fe 2+ 、Mn 2+ And Cu 2+ Metal ion M of (2) n+
10. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the metal salt is selected from the group consisting of magnesium gluconate, magnesium PCA, magnesium sulfate, magnesium acetate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium aluminum silicate, calcium carbonate, calcium PCA, calcium chloride, calcium carbonate, zinc PCA, zinc gluconate, copper PCA, copper gluconate, and mixtures thereof.
11. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the metal salt is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.03 to 3 wt%, preferably from 0.18 to 0.6 wt%, more preferably from 0.36 to 0.48 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
12. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, further comprising additional ingredients selected from pH adjusters, additional surfactants, preservatives, fragrances and thickeners in the oil phase and/or the aqueous phase.
13. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the aqueous phase comprises from 10 to 90 wt%, preferably from 40 to 60 wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. The composition of claim 1, comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
a) 16 to 24 wt% of at least one C8-C12 branched alkane;
b) 16 to 24 wt% of at least one C13-C18 branched alkane;
c) 0.3 to 0.9 wt% of at least one nonionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of octyl/decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, and decyl glucoside; and
d) 0.36 to 0.48% by weight of at least one divalent metal salt selected from the group consisting of magnesium gluconate, magnesium PCA, magnesium sulfate, magnesium acetate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium aluminum silicate, calcium carbonate, calcium PCA, calcium chloride, calcium carbonate, zinc PCA, zinc gluconate, copper PCA, copper gluconate, and mixtures thereof,
wherein the weight ratio of the C8-C12 branched alkane to the C13-C18 branched alkane is 40:60 to 90:10, and the composition is silicone-free.
15. A method for cleansing keratin materials, in particular the skin, and/or for removing makeup from keratin materials, comprising shaking a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14 to form an emulsion, applying the emulsion to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, and rinsing the composition after an optional period of time.
CN202180090348.2A 2021-01-12 2021-01-12 Dual phase composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup from keratin materials Pending CN116744888A (en)

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US4565647B1 (en) 1982-04-26 1994-04-05 Procter & Gamble Foaming surfactant compositions
FR2638636B1 (en) 1988-11-09 1992-09-11 Oreal CLEANER FOR EYES WITH TWO SEPARATE PHASES
FR2699404B1 (en) 1992-12-18 1995-01-27 Oreal Two-phase cosmetic or dermatological composition for removing make-up, cleansing or caring for the skin containing benzalkonium chloride.
US20050075265A1 (en) * 2003-09-12 2005-04-07 L'oreal Two-phase compositions and uses thereof
FR2863874B1 (en) * 2003-12-18 2006-03-17 Oreal CLEANSING COMPOSITION
EP1798213A1 (en) 2005-12-14 2007-06-20 Cognis IP Management GmbH Process for the production of hydrocarbons
WO2008155059A2 (en) 2007-06-19 2008-12-24 Cognis Ip Management Gmbh Hydrocarbon mixtures and use thereof
FR2939662B1 (en) * 2008-12-17 2011-02-11 Oreal TRANSPARENT BIPHASE COMPOSITION WITHOUT SILICONES
FR2993177B1 (en) * 2012-07-16 2014-07-11 Oreal BIPHASIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING ALKYLPOLYGLUCOSIDE AND A FUSION POINT ESTER LESS THAN 10 ° C
DE102012219641A1 (en) * 2012-10-26 2014-04-30 Beiersdorf Ag Two-phase product
FR3007638B1 (en) * 2013-06-28 2015-08-07 Oreal BIPHASE COMPOSITION COMPRISING MAGNESIUM ACETATE
FR3012330B1 (en) * 2013-10-29 2015-10-23 Oreal BIPHASE COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN ESTER OF FATTY ACID AND SUGAR OR A LIQUID ALKYLPOLYGLUCOSIDE OF HLB <8, AND A C8-C18 BRANCHED ALKANE
US20200368558A1 (en) * 2019-05-25 2020-11-26 L'oreal Compositions and articles for make-up removal

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