WO2022137636A1 - Produit cosmétique d'écran solaire de type huile-dans-eau - Google Patents

Produit cosmétique d'écran solaire de type huile-dans-eau Download PDF

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WO2022137636A1
WO2022137636A1 PCT/JP2021/029915 JP2021029915W WO2022137636A1 WO 2022137636 A1 WO2022137636 A1 WO 2022137636A1 JP 2021029915 W JP2021029915 W JP 2021029915W WO 2022137636 A1 WO2022137636 A1 WO 2022137636A1
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oil
mass
total amount
water
cosmetics
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PCT/JP2021/029915
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English (en)
Japanese (ja)
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圭太 西田
堅登 上野
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株式会社 資生堂
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Priority to CN202180079224.4A priority Critical patent/CN116710042A/zh
Priority to JP2022571035A priority patent/JPWO2022137636A1/ja
Publication of WO2022137636A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022137636A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/14—Liposomes; Vesicles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/894—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a polyoxyalkylene group, e.g. cetyl dimethicone copolyol
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to an underwater oil type sunscreen cosmetic having improved vibration stability and water resistance in sunscreen cosmetics.
  • Some amphipathic substances form spherical closures consisting of bilayer membranes (lamella liquid crystals) in the aqueous phase, and such bilayer membrane closures are called vesicles. Vesicles can retain water-soluble components inside the closed body, oil-based components can be retained inside the bilayer membrane, and can be expected to have effects such as improving the stability of the system, so they are the basis of cosmetics. It is used as an agent.
  • vesicles are formed by using a specific polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil derivative as an amphipathic substance, and by containing this as an emulsifier, cosmetics that are not sticky and have a good usability. Is disclosed that was obtained.
  • a silicone-based surfactant can be mentioned as an amphipathic substance forming a vesicle.
  • the vesicle formed by the silicone-based surfactant is preferably used because it has advantages such as a composition having no stickiness and a good usability and being easy to prepare.
  • Patent Document 3 the stability of vesicles was improved by adding a water-soluble low-molecular-weight surfactant to a vesicle-containing aqueous solution previously formed by mixing an aqueous formulation and a silicone-based surfactant. Is described. Further, Patent Document 4 describes that the stability of the vesicle is improved by adding the anionic surfactant after forming the vesicle from the silicone-based surfactant.
  • Patent Document 4 shows that the stability tends to decrease when the oil content is 0.4% by mass or more.
  • Patent Document 5 discloses a technique of dispersing a liquid phase insoluble in water in an outer phase by a vesicle including an inner phase.
  • a vesicle including an inner phase since emulsification by vesicles is unstable and there are restrictions on practical use, the amount of vesicles to be blended tends to be large, and as is generally known, stickiness due to a surfactant forming vesicles is a problem. In some cases.
  • An object of the present invention is to provide an oil-in-water emulsified sunscreen cosmetic having excellent stability and water resistance and high ultraviolet protection.
  • the inventors have used a vesicle formed by a specific silicone-based surfactant in the presence of a specific aqueous component in an oil-in-water emulsified composition as a precursor.
  • a specific silicone-based surfactant in the presence of a specific aqueous component in an oil-in-water emulsified composition as a precursor.
  • nanodisc is a flat plate-shaped lamellar liquid crystal closure whose precursor is a vesicle (lamellar liquid crystal spherical closure) formed by an amphipathic substance, and contains a water-soluble component inside the closure. However, it refers to a substance having an amphipathic group at the edge portion. Nanodiscs exist as precursor vesicles in oil-free compositions, and the vesicles undergo structural changes (hereinafter also referred to as "transfers”) to nanodisks by adding oil and emulsifying.
  • an anionic surfactant and an oil component are added to a vesicle aqueous dispersion obtained by mixing an aqueous component selected from a monohydric alcohol and a divalent alcohol with a polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone to form a vesicle. It is obtained by adding and dispersing while applying a strong stirring force.
  • Nanodiscs exist in a state of being adsorbed on the oil-water interface in an emulsified state, and contribute to emulsification stability.
  • the amphipathic substance forming the vesicle is a silicone-based surfactant
  • the nanodisk of the present invention is also referred to as “silicone nanodisk”.
  • the present invention (A) Aqueous component selected from monohydric alcohols and divalent alcohols, (B) Polyoxyalkylene modified silicone, (C) Oil containing polar oil, (D) An ultraviolet scattering agent having a hydrophobic surface, and (E) Containing anionic surfactant,
  • Aqueous component selected from monohydric alcohols and divalent alcohols,
  • B) Polyoxyalkylene modified silicone (C) Oil containing polar oil, (D) An ultraviolet scattering agent having a hydrophobic surface, and (E) Containing anionic surfactant,
  • the aqueous component (A) is monohydric alcohol alone, it is 1 to 15% by mass with respect to the total amount of cosmetics, and when dihydric alcohol is alone, it is 1 to 20% by mass with respect to the total amount of cosmetics.
  • the total amount is 1 to 45% by mass with respect to the total amount of cosmetics.
  • the ratio of the low molecular weight oil to the total amount of the oil excluding the ultraviolet absorber is 50% or less in terms of mass ratio, which is an oil-in-water sunscreen.
  • the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic according to the present invention is characterized in that nanodisks made of the (B) polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone are attached to the oil-water interface.
  • the cosmetic according to the present invention becomes an oil-in-water emulsion having a high emulsifying power by the above composition, a large amount of an ultraviolet protective agent (ultraviolet absorber and ultraviolet scattering agent) is blended in the oil phase. Can be done. In addition, vibration stability and water resistance can be improved as compared with the conventional emulsification by vesicles. Therefore, it is possible to realize a cosmetic that is more suitable for carrying. Furthermore, since the silicone nanodisc according to the present invention has sufficient emulsifying power, it is also possible to add a water-soluble agent such as a salt-type whitening agent, which tends to have poor stability when added to the aqueous phase, which is usually the outer phase. It becomes.
  • a water-soluble agent such as a salt-type whitening agent
  • the cosmetic according to the present invention comprises (A) an aqueous component selected from a monohydric alcohol and a divalent alcohol, (B) a polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone, (C) an oil containing polar oil, and (D) a hydrophobic surface. It is characterized by containing an ultraviolet scattering agent having and (E) an anionic surfactant.
  • A an aqueous component selected from a monohydric alcohol and a divalent alcohol
  • B a polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone
  • C an oil containing polar oil
  • D a hydrophobic surface. It is characterized by containing an ultraviolet scattering agent having and (E) an anionic surfactant.
  • the (A) aqueous component (hereinafter, may be simply referred to as "(A) component”) blended in the cosmetic according to the present invention is one or more selected from monohydric alcohol and dihydric alcohol.
  • the monohydric alcohol is not particularly limited as long as it is usually used for cosmetics, and examples thereof include ethyl alcohol (ethanol), normal propyl alcohol, and isopropyl alcohol, and in the present invention, ethyl alcohol is preferable.
  • the divalent alcohol is not particularly limited as long as it is usually used for cosmetics, but examples thereof include 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and the like, and dipropylene glycol is preferable in the present invention.
  • the surface of the spherical vesicles formed by the surfactant is entirely covered with hydrophilic groups, but since nanodiscs have lipophilic groups at the edges, it is difficult to generate nanodisks in water.
  • the solvent effect hydrophilizes the surfactant (polyether-modified silicone in the present invention), resulting in accelerated transfer from spherical vesicles to nanodisks.
  • the blending amount is 1 to 15% by mass with respect to the total amount of cosmetics
  • the divalent alcohol is used alone
  • the blending amount is 1 to 15% by mass with respect to the total amount of cosmetics. It is 1 to 20% by mass.
  • the total blending amount is 1 to 45% by mass, preferably 1 to 35% by mass, based on the total amount of the cosmetics. More preferably, it is preferably blended with the concentration of the monohydric alcohol and the divalent alcohol satisfying the following formula (1) as the upper limit.
  • the blending amount of monohydric alcohol alone, the blending amount of dihydric alcohol alone, and the total blending amount of monohydric alcohol and divalent alcohol is less than 1% by mass, vesicles may not be generated or the structure may be disturbed and emulsification may not be possible. .. Further, when the blending amount of the monohydric alcohol alone exceeds 15% by mass or when the blending amount of the dihydric alcohol alone exceeds 20% by mass, the blending ratio of the monohydric alcohol and the dihydric alcohol is further in the above formula (1).
  • the (B) polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone (hereinafter, may be simply referred to as “component (B)”) blended in the cosmetic according to the present invention has a polysiloxane structure as a hydrophobic group and a polyoxyalkylene as a hydrophilic group. It is a surfactant having a structure, and is preferably a water-soluble silicone-based surfactant in which a part of the methyl group of dimethicone is replaced with polyethylene glycol. Specifically, it is expressed by the following equation (2).
  • R 1 is hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and may be the same or independently different from each other.
  • At least one of A is the formula (3): -(CH 2 ) a- (C 2 H 4 O) b- (C 3 H 6 O) c-R 2 (3)
  • the other A is a hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, which may be the same or independently different from each other.
  • R 2 in the formula (3) is hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a is an integer of 1 to 6, b is an integer of 0 to 50, c is an integer of 0 to 50, and b + c is at least 5 or more. be.
  • m is an integer of 1 to 200
  • n is an integer of 0 to 50.
  • the (B) polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone of the present invention preferably has an HLB of less than 10 in the HLB calculation according to the Griffin formula.
  • PEG-12 dimethicone in which c is 0 and b is 12 in the above formula (3) is particularly preferable. Further, it is more preferable that PEG-12 dimethicone has an HLB of less than 10.
  • Examples of commercially available products of PEG-12 dimethicone include DOWNSIL TM ES-5373, SH3772M, SH3773M, SH3775M (all manufactured by Dow Toray), IM-22 (manufactured by Wacker Chemical Co., Ltd.) and the like.
  • the blending amount of the component (B) is not particularly limited as long as it can form a vesicle that is a precursor of nanodisks, but is, for example, 0.1 to 5.0% by mass, preferably 0, based on the total amount of cosmetics. .3 to 3.0% by mass, more preferably 0.8 to 2.0% by mass. If the blending amount is less than 0.1% by mass, vesicles may not be sufficiently formed, and if it exceeds 5.0% by mass, the stability of the vesicles may be inferior.
  • the cosmetic according to the present invention contains nanodiscs made of the surfactant of the component (B).
  • Vesicles which are precursors of nanodisks, can be formed by a conventional method. Specifically, a vesicle composed of the component (B) is formed by mixing and stirring (A) the aqueous component and (B) the polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone.
  • a vesicle composed of the component (B) is formed by mixing and stirring (A) the aqueous component and (B) the polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone.
  • water or an aqueous component usually used in cosmetics may be blended in an amount within a range that does not impair the stability of the vesicle.
  • the average particle size of the vesicle is not particularly limited, but is usually about 30 nm to 150 nm.
  • the (C) oil component (hereinafter, may be simply referred to as “(C) component”) blended in the cosmetics according to the present invention refers to an oil content that contains at least polar oil indispensable.
  • the oil content (C) of the present invention contains a low molecular weight oil content
  • the ratio of the low molecular weight oil content to the total amount of the oil content excluding the ultraviolet absorber shall be 50% or less in terms of mass ratio. Needs.
  • Examples of the polar oil blended in the cosmetics according to the present invention include ester oils, particularly ester oils having an IOB value of about 0.1 to 0.6, and oil-soluble and polar ultraviolet absorbers.
  • ester oil having an IOB value of about 0.1 to 0.6 are not limited, but are limited to diisopropyl sebacate, pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate, cetyl ethylhexanate, jojoba oil, and di (phytosteryl / octyl) lauroyl glutamate.
  • oil-soluble and polar UV absorber may be those normally blended in sunscreen cosmetics, and are not particularly limited, but specific examples include ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, and dimethico.
  • organic UV absorbers such as butylphenol, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, terephthalylidenedicanfursulfonic acid, and drometrizoletrisiloxane.
  • the polar oil used in the present invention one kind or a combination of two or more kinds may be used.
  • the oil (C) of the present invention may further contain one or more selected from hydrocarbon oils and silicone oils.
  • hydrocarbon oil examples include isododecane, isohexadecane, hydrogenated polydecene, isoparaffin, liquid paraffin, ozokerite, squalane, pristane, paraffin, ceresin, squalane, petrolatum, microcrystalline wax and the like.
  • silicone oil examples include chain polysiloxane (eg, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, diphenylpolysiloxane, etc.) and cyclic polysiloxane (eg, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl, etc.).
  • chain polysiloxane eg, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, diphenylpolysiloxane, etc.
  • cyclic polysiloxane eg, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl, etc.
  • Silicone resin forming a three-dimensional network structure, silicone rubber, various modified polysiloxanes (amino-modified polysiloxane, polyether-modified polysiloxane, alkyl-modified polysiloxane, fluorine-modified polysiloxane, etc.), acrylic Examples include silicones.
  • the ratio of the low molecular weight oil to the total amount of the oil excluding the ultraviolet absorber is set to 50% or less in terms of mass ratio. There must be. This is because if the ratio of the small molecule oil to the total amount of the oil excluding the ultraviolet absorber exceeds 50%, sufficient vibration stability cannot be obtained. Since it is not necessary to add a small molecule oil as an oil in the cosmetic according to the present invention, the lower limit of the ratio of the small molecule oil to the total amount of the oil excluding the ultraviolet absorber is 0%. ..
  • the small molecule oil content refers to an oil content having a volatilization rate at 25 ° C. and a weight change rate of 30% or more per hour.
  • the volatilization rate refers to the value of the rate of change in weight per hour measured under the condition of 25 ° C. by placing a filter paper on a glass petri dish, dropping about 0.2 g of a sample, and using a gravimetric method.
  • Specific examples of the small molecule oil include isododecane, low-viscosity volatile silicone (low-viscosity dimethicone) having an average degree of polymerization of less than 650, and the like.
  • Examples of commercially available small molecule oil products include Creasil ID CG (manufactured by Shima Trading Co., Ltd.) and KF-96L-1.5CS (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.).
  • the volatilization rate of Creasil ID CG is 90% or more, and the volatilization rate of KF-96L-1.5CS is about 50%.
  • At least polar oil may be included as the oil component (C) of the present invention. Therefore, the cosmetic of the present invention includes an embodiment containing only polar oil as an oil component.
  • the amount of the oil (C) blended in the cosmetic according to the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is an amount normally used for blending an ultraviolet scattering agent in the oil phase, but for example, with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic. It is mentioned that it is 1 to 40% by mass. (C) If the blending amount of the oil exceeds 40% by mass, the stability and usability tend to decrease.
  • a UV absorber When a UV absorber is blended, it is preferably 1% by mass or more, or 3 to 30% by mass or 5 to 25, based on the total amount of the cosmetic, from the viewpoint of obtaining a sufficient UV protection effect by the UV absorber. It is more preferable to use% by mass.
  • the (D) ultraviolet scattering agent (hereinafter, may be simply referred to as “(D) component”) blended in the cosmetic according to the present invention is not particularly limited, but is appropriately selected from those usually used in cosmetics. be able to. Specific examples include metal oxides such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, and tungsten oxide. In the present invention, titanium oxide and zinc oxide are preferable.
  • the (D) ultraviolet scattering agent used in the present invention may be either untreated or hydrophobized as long as the surface of the particles is hydrophobic.
  • Various types of hydrophobizing surface treatments can be used to hydrophobize the surface.
  • Examples of the method for hydrophobizing surface treatment include silicone oils such as methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane, and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and methyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, and the like.
  • the blending amount of the component (D) is not particularly limited, but is usually 1% by mass or more, for example, 1 to 30% by mass, preferably 1 to 20% by mass with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic. If the blending amount is less than 1% by mass, it is difficult to obtain a sufficient UV protection effect, and if it exceeds 30% by mass, the stability tends to deteriorate. Since the cosmetic according to the present invention has excellent emulsification stability, it is possible to add an ultraviolet scattering agent exceeding 10% by mass.
  • the cosmetic according to the present invention is a powder-type composition in oil in water in which (D) an ultraviolet scattering agent is dispersed in oil droplets as an internal phase.
  • the oil phase is preferably 1 to 50% by mass with respect to the total amount of the cosmetics.
  • the (E) anionic surfactant (hereinafter, may be simply referred to as "(E) component") blended in the cosmetics according to the present invention may be any one usually used for cosmetics, and the above-mentioned ( B) A surfactant other than a silicone-based surfactant such as polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone, which has an anionic hydrophilic group such as a carboxylic acid, a sulfonic acid, and a surfactant having a phosphoric acid structure.
  • the formulation of anionic surfactant stabilizes the nanodisc.
  • an anionic surfactant having a Krafft temperature higher than room temperature.
  • the silicone-based surfactant and the anionic surfactant are likely to mix and interact with each other, which tends to prevent the transfer from the vesicle to the nanodisc. be.
  • a sulfonate-type anionic surfactant is preferable.
  • the sulfonate-type anionic surfactant include sulfosuccinic acid diester salt, alkylallyl sulfonate, alkyl ether sulfonate, sulfosuccinic acid ester salt, acylmethyl taurine salt, acyl taurine salt, potassium cetyl phosphate, and potassium cocoyl glutamate. And so on. Among them, it is preferable to select and use from acylmethyltaurine salt, potassium cetylphosphate and potassium cocoylglutamate.
  • N-acylmethyl taurine salt as the (E) anionic surfactant.
  • the N-acylmethyl taurine salts represented by the following formula (4) the N-stearoyl-N-methyl taurine salt is preferable.
  • the blending amount of the component (E) is preferably 0.01 to 1% by mass, more preferably 0.01 to 0.1% by mass, and 0.01 to 0. It is more preferably 06% by mass. If the blending amount is less than 0.01% by mass, the nanodisk may not be sufficiently stable, and if it exceeds 1% by mass, the vesicle that is the precursor of the nanodisk is solubilized or the formation of the nanodisk is hindered. In some cases. Further, the mixing amount ratio of (B) polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone and (E) anionic surfactant is 1: 0 in terms of mass ratio. It is preferably 01 to 1: 0.06.
  • a whitening agent is added to sunscreen cosmetics, but it is generally known that when a salt-type whitening agent is added to the aqueous phase, which is the outer phase, the stability tends to deteriorate. Since the cosmetic according to the present invention is emulsified by nanodiscs formed of a specific silicone-based surfactant and the emulsifying power is enhanced by limiting the oil content to be blended, a salt-type whitening agent is blended in the aqueous phase. Even so, it has the effect of being excellent in vibration stability.
  • the (F) whitening agent (hereinafter, may be simply referred to as "(F) component”) blended in the cosmetic according to the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is normally blended in the cosmetic.
  • Specific examples include L-ascorbic acid and its derivatives, tranexamic acid and its derivatives, alkoxysalicylic acid and its derivatives, glycyrrhizic acid and its derivatives, nicotinic acid and its derivatives, and the like.
  • one kind or a combination of two or more kinds of the above-mentioned agents may be blended.
  • L-ascorbic acid monoalkyl esters such as L-ascorbic acid monostearate, L-ascorbic acid monopalmitate, and L-ascorbic acid monoolate; L-ascorbic acid monophosphate ester, L.
  • L-L-ascorbic acid monoesters such as ascorbic acid-2-sulfate ester
  • L-ascorbic acid dialkyl esters such as L-ascorbic acid distearate, L-ascorbic acid dipalmitate, L-ascorbic acid dioleate
  • L-ascorbic acid tri L-ascorbic acid trialkyl esters such as stearate, L-ascorbic acid tripalmitate, L-ascorbic acid triolate
  • L-ascorbic acid triesters such as L-ascorbic acid triphosphate
  • L-ascorbic acid 2 -L-ascorbic acid glucosides such as glucoside can be mentioned.
  • L-ascorbic acid, L-ascorbic acid phosphate ester, L-ascorbic acid-2-sulfate ester, L-ascorbic acid 2-glucoside and salts thereof are preferably used.
  • tranexamic acid Derivatives of tranexamic acid include dimers of tranexamic acid (eg, trans-4- (trans-aminomethylcyclohexanecarbonyl) aminomethylcyclohexanecarboxylic acid, etc.), esters of tranexamic acid and hydroquinone (eg, 4).
  • tranexamic acid and a salt thereof are preferably used.
  • the derivative of alkoxysalicylic acid is one in which the hydrogen atom at any of the 3-position, 4-position or 5-position of salicylic acid is substituted with an alkoxy group, and the alkoxy group as the substituent is preferably a methoxy group, an ethoxy group, or the like. It is any one of a propoxy group, an isopropoxy group, a butoxy group and an isobutoxy group, and more preferably a methoxy group or an ethoxy group.
  • compound names include 3-methoxysalicylic acid, 3-ethoxysalicylic acid, 4-methoxysalicylic acid, 4-ethoxysalicylic acid, 4-propoxysalicylic acid, 4-isopropoxysalicylic acid, 4-butoxysalicylic acid, and 5-methoxysalicylic acid. , 5-ethoxysalicylic acid, 5-propoxysalicylic acid and the like.
  • methoxysalicylic acid and a salt thereof are preferably used.
  • Examples of the derivative of glycyrrhizic acid include salts of glycyrrhizic acid and esters of glycyrrhizic acid and higher alcohols.
  • glycyrrhizic acid and salts thereof are preferably used.
  • the salt of the above-mentioned drug is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include alkali metal salts such as sodium salt, potassium salt and calcium salt, alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium salts, amino acid salts and the like.
  • nicotinic acid and its derivatives examples include nicotinic acid, benzyl nicotinate, nicotinic acid amide, and dl- ⁇ -tocopherol nicotinate. Nicotinamide is preferably used in the present invention.
  • the blending amount of the (F) whitening agent is 0.05 to 10% by mass, preferably 0.1 to 7% by mass, and more preferably 0.5 to 5% by mass with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic. If the blending amount is less than 0.05% by mass, it is difficult to obtain a sufficient medicinal effect, and if it exceeds 10% by mass, the stability and usability tend to deteriorate.
  • the (F) whitening agent of the present invention may be dissolved or dispersed in the aqueous phase together with other aqueous components.
  • the cosmetic according to the present invention may contain one or more (G) dispersants.
  • the dispersant include sorbitan sesquiisostearate, isostearic acid, palmitic acid, polyhydroxystearic acid and the like.
  • sorbitan sesquiisostearate and isostearic acid are exemplified as particularly suitable ones, and one or both of them may be blended.
  • the dispersant is a selective compounding ingredient in the cosmetics of the present invention, and therefore must be blended, but when blended, the effect of the blending is recognized and the dispersant is blended. It is preferable to add the mixture to the extent that no adverse effects such as an excessive amount of the compounding and impairing the usability are observed.
  • the suitable blending amount of the (G) dispersant in the cosmetic according to the present invention is preferably about 0.01 to 1% by mass with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic.
  • the water to be blended in the cosmetic according to the present invention is selected as necessary, such as ion-exchanged water, purified water, tap water, and natural water.
  • the blending amount is the remaining amount (mass% with respect to the total amount of cosmetics) with respect to the sum of the essential ingredient according to the present invention and other optional blending ingredients. Generally, about 30 to 70% by mass is preferable with respect to the total amount of cosmetics.
  • the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic according to the present invention includes any other additive ingredients usually used for external skin preparations such as cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, as long as the purpose and effect of the present invention are not impaired.
  • cosmetics and pharmaceuticals for example, fats and oils, waxes, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, oil phase thickeners, surfactants, water-soluble ultraviolet absorbers, pigments, chelating agents, lower alcohols, polyhydric alcohols, pH adjusters, antioxidants, powders.
  • Ingredients, fragrances and the like can be appropriately blended as needed.
  • the present invention is not limited to these examples.
  • (B) polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone is sufficiently mixed with (A) an aqueous component, and then the mixed solution is water containing an aqueous component other than (A) component. It can be produced as a vesicle aqueous dispersion by dropping the mixture into the phase while stirring.
  • the mixed state of the (B) polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone and the (A) aqueous component may be as long as it can be confirmed that the mixed solution is transparent and in a one-phase state. For example, mixing is performed at room temperature to 90 ° C. for 1 to 30 minutes. It can be achieved by doing.
  • vesicle particles having an average particle size of 30 to 150 nm measured by a dynamic light scattering method can be obtained.
  • the vesicle according to the present invention can also be produced in a form in which an oily component is retained inside the bilayer membrane of the vesicle by a conventional method.
  • the vesicle according to the present invention is oil-soluble by adding and mixing an oil-soluble component such as a fragrance in the step of mixing (B) polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone and (A) an aqueous component. It may be produced as a vesicle in which the component is retained in the bilayer membrane of the vesicle.
  • the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic according to the present invention is emulsified by nanodiscs transferred from vesicles by adding an anionic surfactant and oil to the aqueous phase containing vesicles and dispersing while applying strong stirring force. It was done.
  • the cosmetic of the present invention is stabilized by a three-phase structure of aqueous phase-nanodisc phase-oil phase in which nanodiscs (phases) are attached to oil phases (oil droplets). Therefore, the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic according to the present invention is characterized in that nanodiscs made of polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone are attached (localized) around the oil-water interface, that is, around the oil droplets made of the oil phase. ..
  • the major axis of the nanodisk is 20 nm to 1000 nm.
  • the three-phase structure of the aqueous phase-nanodisc phase-oil phase in the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic according to the present invention can be formed by a conventional method. That is, under stirring, polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone was dropped onto an aqueous component to form vesicle particles to obtain a vesicle aqueous dispersion, and an oily component separately mixed and dissolved with an anionic surfactant in this vesicle aqueous dispersion. Is added and dispersed with a strong stirring force, the vesicles are transferred to the nanodisks, forming a three-phase structure of aqueous phase-nanodisk phase-oil phase.
  • Oil droplets composed of oily components are emulsified and dispersed in the aqueous phase, and nanodisks are localized on the surface of the oil droplet particles, so that the emulsification stability is excellent and the feeling of use (freshness, non-stickiness) is also improved.
  • the stirring device used for stirring is not particularly limited, and for example, a homomixer, a disper, or the like can be used.
  • the vesicle particles formed in the aqueous phase can be molded into a sufficiently fine particle size by applying a strong share with the above-mentioned homomixer or the like, and uniformly dispersed in the aqueous phase.
  • the degree of strong share is not particularly limited, but is usually about 5 minutes under the condition of 7,000 to 12,000 rpm by a homomixer.
  • the cosmetic of the present invention is obtained by forming vesicle particles in an aqueous phase, adding an anionic surfactant to the vesicle dispersion, and then adding an oily component to emulsify. Therefore, the method for producing an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic according to the present invention is obtained by a vesicle forming step of mixing (A) an aqueous component and (B) a polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone to form a vesicle, and a vesicle forming step.
  • aqueous component and (B) a polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone are previously dissolved, and the solution is mixed with the remaining aqueous phase components to disperse the vesicles in the aqueous phase.
  • a liquid may be obtained, or the vesicles are dispersed in the aqueous phase by mixing and stirring (B) the polyoxyalkylene-modified silicone in the aqueous phase containing (A) an aqueous component and an aqueous component other than (A).
  • a vesicle dispersion may be obtained.
  • the cosmetic according to the present invention has a fresh feeling of use peculiar to an oil-in-water emulsion and exhibits an excellent UV protection effect.
  • the nanodisc-containing emulsion according to the present invention can be blended with a large amount of oil that cannot be blended with a normal solubilized product, yet a refreshing feeling of use can be obtained.
  • the cosmetic according to the present invention is suitably used in various dosage forms such as creamy, milky liquid, and liquid.
  • a product form it can be a skin care cosmetic having a sunscreen effect, or a make-up cosmetic such as a foundation or a foundation having a sunscreen effect.
  • the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples below, but the present invention is not limited thereto.
  • the blending amount is shown in mass% with respect to the system in which the component is blended.
  • Vibration stability 30 ml of the prepared sample was placed in a resin tube, vibrated for 30 minutes under the condition of 10 Hz or higher, and the emulsified separation and powder aggregation state of the sample after standing were visually observed. The evaluation was based on the following criteria. A: No emulsification destruction or powder agglomeration is observed. B: Emulsification destruction and powder agglomeration are rarely seen. C: Emulsification destruction and powder agglomeration are observed. D: Emulsification destruction and powder agglomeration are severely observed.
  • Water resistance measures the UV protection ability of UV protection agents (UV absorbers and UV scattering agents) contained in cosmetics before and after bathing, and the ratio of UV protection ability remaining after bathing (absorbance). By calculating the residual rate), the strength of water resistance was measured. Specifically, the cosmetics (samples) of each example were dropped onto a measurement plate (S plate) (5 x 5 cm V-groove PMMA plate, SPFMASTER-PA01) in an amount of 2 mg / cm 2 and applied with a finger for 60 seconds. Then, the absorbance of the coating film formed after drying for 15 minutes was measured with a U-3500 type self-recording spectrophotometer manufactured by Hitachi, Ltd.
  • S plate 5 x 5 cm V-groove PMMA plate, SPFMASTER-PA01
  • Abs residual rate (%) (Abs integrated value after water bath) / (Abs integrated value before water bath) ⁇ 100 Based on the calculated Abs residual rate, the determination was made according to the following criteria. A: 80% or more remains. B: 60% or more and less than 80% remains. C: Less than 60% remains.
  • KF-96L-1.5CS manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • Volatilization rate approx. 50%
  • 2: KF-96L-6T manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • 3: KF-96A-20CS manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • Table 1 shows cosmetics prepared by changing the amphipathic substance forming the vesicle, (E) anionic surfactant, and (C) oil.
  • Example 1 and Example 2 which are the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetics of the present invention, were both excellent in vibration stability and water resistance.
  • the vibration stability was excellent, but the water resistance was inferior. rice field.
  • polar oil diisopropyl sebacate, cetyl ethylhexanate, ultraviolet absorber
  • silicone oil or hydrocarbon oil is blended in addition to polar oil as an oil component.
  • All of the cosmetics of Examples 8 to 10 had excellent vibration stability and water resistance. As shown in Example 7, it was confirmed that excellent vibration stability and water resistance can be obtained by blending polar oil without containing an ultraviolet absorber.
  • KF-96L-1.5CS manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • Volatilization rate approx. 50%
  • 2: KF-96L-6T manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • 3: KF-96A-20CS manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • Table 2 shows cosmetics prepared by changing the ratio of small molecule oil to the total amount of oil excluding ultraviolet absorbers. Comparison of cosmetics containing isododecane with a volatilization rate of 90% or more, which is a low molecular weight oil, or dimethicone with a volatility rate of about 50%, in which the ratio of these low molecular weight oils to the total amount of oils excluding UV absorbers exceeds 50%. In the cosmetics of Example 5, Comparative Example 6 and Comparative Example 7, the vibration stability was significantly reduced. On the other hand, cosmetics in which the ratio of the small molecule oil content to the total amount of oil excluding the ultraviolet absorber is 50% (Example 12, Example 14, Example 15) and cosmetics in which the ratio is 25% (Example 13, Implementation). All of Examples 16) had sufficient vibration stability.

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Abstract

Le but de la présente invention est de fournir un produit cosmétique d'écran solaire émulsifié de type huile-dans-eau qui, en tant que composition émulsifiée de type huile-dans-eau contenant des vésicules, présente une excellente stabilité de vibration et une excellente résistance à l'eau et possède une capacité élevée de blocage des ultraviolets. Un produit cosmétique d'écran solaire émulsifié de type huile-dans-eau selon la présente invention est caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend un composant aqueux (A) choisi parmi les alcools monohydriques et les alcools dihydriques, une silicone modifiée par polyoxyalkylène (B), une fraction d'huile contenant de l'huile polaire (C), un agent de diffusion des ultraviolets (D) ayant une surface rendue hydrophobe, et un tensioactif anionique (E), lorsque le composant aqueux (A) est seulement un alcool monohydrique, il est de 1 à 15 % en masse par rapport à la quantité totale du produit cosmétique ; lorsque le composant aqueux (A) est seulement un alcool dihydrique, il est de 1 à 20 % en masse par rapport à la quantité totale du produit cosmétique ; et lorsque le composant aqueux (A) est une combinaison alcool monohydrique / alcool dihydrique, il est de 1 à 45 % en masse par rapport à la quantité totale du produit cosmétique. Une autre caractéristique est que, lorsqu'une fraction d'huile de faible poids moléculaire est incorporée en tant que fraction d'huile (C), la proportion de la fraction d'huile de faible poids moléculaire par rapport à la quantité totale de la fraction d'huile à l'exclusion des absorbeurs d'ultraviolets n'est pas supérieure à 50 % en tant que rapport de masse.
PCT/JP2021/029915 2020-12-25 2021-08-16 Produit cosmétique d'écran solaire de type huile-dans-eau WO2022137636A1 (fr)

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Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2009102236A (ja) * 2007-10-22 2009-05-14 Shiseido Co Ltd 水中油型乳化組成物及びその製造方法
JP2014070032A (ja) * 2012-09-28 2014-04-21 Shiseido Co Ltd 水中油型乳化組成物
JP2014214134A (ja) * 2013-04-26 2014-11-17 株式会社 資生堂 水性組成物
JP2018076308A (ja) * 2016-10-28 2018-05-17 ロート製薬株式会社 外用組成物

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2009102236A (ja) * 2007-10-22 2009-05-14 Shiseido Co Ltd 水中油型乳化組成物及びその製造方法
JP2014070032A (ja) * 2012-09-28 2014-04-21 Shiseido Co Ltd 水中油型乳化組成物
JP2014214134A (ja) * 2013-04-26 2014-11-17 株式会社 資生堂 水性組成物
JP2018076308A (ja) * 2016-10-28 2018-05-17 ロート製薬株式会社 外用組成物

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