WO2022086439A1 - Textile à mailles tridimensionnelles à variation bidirectionnelle d'épaisseur - Google Patents

Textile à mailles tridimensionnelles à variation bidirectionnelle d'épaisseur Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2022086439A1
WO2022086439A1 PCT/SG2021/050495 SG2021050495W WO2022086439A1 WO 2022086439 A1 WO2022086439 A1 WO 2022086439A1 SG 2021050495 W SG2021050495 W SG 2021050495W WO 2022086439 A1 WO2022086439 A1 WO 2022086439A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
yarn
region
fabric
spacer
thickness
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/SG2021/050495
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Ranil Kirthi Vitarana
Sithila DASSANAYAKE
Dilru Roshan RATNAWEERA
Hetti Arachchige Malaka Chathuranga PERERA
Dodangodage Indika Sanjeewa WICKRAMARATNE
Original Assignee
Mas Innovation (Private) Limited
MATTEUCCI, Gianfranco
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Mas Innovation (Private) Limited, MATTEUCCI, Gianfranco filed Critical Mas Innovation (Private) Limited
Priority to EP21762824.7A priority Critical patent/EP4232624A1/fr
Priority to US18/249,644 priority patent/US20230392304A1/en
Priority to EP21787514.5A priority patent/EP4081676A1/fr
Priority to PCT/SG2021/050609 priority patent/WO2022086441A1/fr
Publication of WO2022086439A1 publication Critical patent/WO2022086439A1/fr
Priority to US17/819,356 priority patent/US20230010185A1/en

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • D04B1/108—Gussets, e.g. pouches or heel or toe portions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41C—CORSETS; BRASSIERES
    • A41C3/00—Brassieres
    • A41C3/12—Component parts
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/12—Patterned fabrics or articles characterised by thread material
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/04—Heat-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/041—Heat-responsive characteristics thermoplastic; thermosetting
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/02—Cross-sectional features
    • D10B2403/021—Lofty fabric with equidistantly spaced front and back plies, e.g. spacer fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/02—Cross-sectional features
    • D10B2403/022—Lofty fabric with variably spaced front and back plies, e.g. spacer fabrics
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
    • D10B2501/02—Underwear

Definitions

  • the current invention relates to a weft knit spacer fabric product formed from knitting that has bi-directional thickness variation and patterned in such a way to provide a free-standing 3- dimensional shape, making it suitable for use in 3-dimensional objects, such as bras, shoulder pads and the like.
  • Foam or polyurethane (Pll) bra cups are not sustainable in many ways.
  • the use of the starting raw materials and the method of manufacture is not sustainable, and the final product also causes problems in terms of its disposal once its useful life has been completed.
  • the current invention provides a sustainable alternative solution for Pll bra cups (and associated products).
  • the invention relates to a weft knit spacer fabric (also referred to herein as a fabric product) that has bi-directional thickness variation. That is, the product may be formed by flat knitting to generate a weft knit spacer fabric that has bi-directional thickness variation, which is patterned to provide a 3-dimensional (3D) structure.
  • the 3D fabric is free standing, that is the fabric product may be knitted such that it retains three- dimensionality in the absence of a support.
  • the fabric product may have a free standing hemispherical shape (or any other suitable shape).
  • the thickness variation e.g. in a bra cup this may relate to the change in thickness required for nipple concealment or support
  • the thickness variation may be created as required.
  • a weft knit spacer fabric having variable thicknesses comprising: a first surface layer formed from a first set of yarn; a second surface layer formed from a second set of yarn; and a set of spacer yarn between the first and second surface layers, where the fabric is formed from a plurality of courses of the sets of first, second and spacer yarns, where each course is connected to at least one other course in a wale direction, wherein the thickness is varied by varying one or both of: a density of tuck stitches along each course, where each tuck stitch is formed by the spacer yarn with the first and/or second surface layers; and a thickness of the set of spacer yarn in each course; and wherein: the fabric is patterned to provide a free-standing 3-dimensional shape that has an internal volume defined by the surface of the first or second surface layer; and the first and second sets of yarns comprise an elastic material, provided that the fabric is a fabric that has not been subjecte
  • first and second sets of yarns each comprise a main yarn and a platting yarn, where each main yarn forms an outer surface and the platting yarn forms an interior surface of the respective first and second surface layers.
  • the bra cup or bra cookie is patterned to have a first, a second, a third, a fourth and a fifth spacer yarn thickness region, each region having a different thickness for the sets of spacer yarn, such that: the first region corresponds to an outer peripheral region of the cup and has a set of spacer yarn with a diameter lower than a set of spacer yarn used in the second region; the second region corresponds to a region of the cup between the first and third regions and has a set of spacer yarn with a diameter lower than a set of spacer yarn used in the third region; the third region corresponds to a central region of the cup and has a spacer yarn diameter higher than a spacer yarn used in the first and second regions the fourth region corresponds to a region of the cup between the third and fifth regions and has a set of spacer yarn with a diameter lower than a set of spacer yarn used in the third region; the fifth region corresponds to an outer peripheral region of the cup and has a set of spacer yarn with
  • a garment comprising a weft knit spacer fabric having variable thicknesses as defined in any one of Clauses 1 to 10.
  • the materials used can be sustainable (e.g. recycled materials, bio-based materials, and recyclable materials) and the process enables less wastage during manufacturing, including low energy consumption compared to traditional Pll moulding.
  • Figure 1 shows a pattern for a weft knit spacer fabric of the invention.
  • Figure 2 shows a depiction of the patterns used in a 3-dimensional weft knit spacer fabric suitable for a bra cup, and depicts regions having different densities of tuck stitches.
  • Figure 3 shows a depiction of the patterns used in a 3-dimensional a weft knit spacer fabric suitable for a bra cup, and depicts regions having different spacer yarn thicknesses.
  • Figure 4 shows a suitable cross-section for a fabric of the invention, in which the first and second surface layers are formed from a single yarn that may be the same or different.
  • Figure 5 shows a suitable cross-section for a fabric of the invention, in which the first and second surface layers are formed from two separate yarns.
  • Figure 6 shows an example of longer and shorter courses that may be used to generate a three-dimensional hemi-sphere for a bra cup, such as that shown in Figures 2 and 3.
  • Figure 7 shows an example of the longer and shorter courses of Figure 6 with an overlay depicting tuck stitch density.
  • Figure 8 shows an example of the longer and shorter courses of Figure 6 with an overlay depicting the thickness of the spacer yarn used in the tuck stitches.
  • a weft knit spacer fabric having variable thicknesses, the fabric comprising: a first surface layer formed from a first set of yarn; a second surface layer formed from a second set of yarn; and a set of spacer yarn between the first and second surface layers, where the fabric is formed from a plurality of courses of the sets of first, second and spacer yarns, where each course is connected to at least one other course in a wale direction, wherein the thickness is varied by varying one or both of: a density of tuck stitches along each course, where each tuck stitch is formed by the spacer yarn with the first and/or second surface layers; and a thickness of the set of spacer yarn in each course; and wherein: the fabric is patterned to provide a free-standing 3-dimensional shape that has an internal volume defined by the surface of the first or second surface layer; and the first and second sets of yarns comprise an elastic material, provided that the fabric is a fabric that has not been subjected to a moulding step
  • the word “comprising” may be interpreted as requiring the features mentioned, but not limiting the presence of other features.
  • the word “comprising” may also relate to the situation where only the components/features listed are intended to be present (e.g. the word “comprising” may be replaced by the phrases “consists of” or “consists essentially of”). It is explicitly contemplated that both the broader and narrower interpretations can be applied to all aspects and embodiments of the present invention.
  • the word “comprising” and synonyms thereof may be replaced by the phrase “consisting of” or the phrase “consists essentially of’ or synonyms thereof and vice versa.
  • the phrase “consists essentially of” and its pseudonyms may be interpreted herein to refer to a material where minor impurities may be present.
  • the material may be greater than or equal to 90% pure, such as greater than 95% pure, such as greater than 97% pure, such as greater than 99% pure, such as greater than 99.9% pure, such as greater than 99.99% pure, such as greater than 99.999% pure, such as 100% pure.
  • first and second sets of yarns may be the same or different.
  • first and second sets of yarns may be formed from one or more materials.
  • the first set of yarn may be formed from an inelastic yarn, an elastic yarn or a combination of both.
  • weft directional tuck frequency (or density) will determine the thickness variation. If the tuck stiches are closer to each other (all needle tuck) then the thickness is high. If the tuck stiches are far from each other, then the thickness will be low. This frequency can go down to the level of no tuck stiches at all.
  • the density of tuck stitches along a course affects the thickness of the course itself across its length. For example, the density of tuck stitches may be the same across the course length. In this case, the thickness of the particular course will be even across its length, though it may be thicker or thinner than adjacent courses even when they make use of the same thickness of spacer yarn, as the adjacent courses may use a higher or lower density of tuck stitches across their length.
  • the density of the tuck stitches may vary along the course. For example, there may be a low density (or no) tuck stitches at peripheral regions of the course, while the central region of the course may have a high density of tuck stitches. As such, the course shows a thicker middle than peripheral regions. As will be appreciated any variation of this the above is possible to achieve the desired thickness across the courses.
  • At least one course in the fabric may vary the density of tuck stitches and at least one course may vary the thickness of the set of spacer yarn.
  • the thickness of the fabric may also be controlled by varying the thickness of the spacer yarns used in the set of spacer yarn. This may enable courses that have an identical density of tuck stitches to nevertheless have a different thickness due to the difference in thicknesses of the spacer yarns used in the respective courses.
  • Examples of thickness of spacer yarns that may be used herein may be from 10 to 700 Denier.
  • a thin spacer yarn may have a thickness of from 10 to 50 Denier, such as from 15 to 40 Denier, such as about 17 Denier.
  • a medium-thickness spacer yarn may have a thickness of from 50 to 300 Denier, while a thick spacer yarn may have a thickness of from 300 to 700 Denier, such as from 400 to 600 Denier.
  • a set of spacer yarns that includes a yarn that is elastic or stretchable in nature.
  • Any suitable textile yarn may be used in the first, second and spacer sets of yarns. However, specific types of yarn may be required, depending on the desired functionality.
  • the first and/or second yarns may comprise at least 10 wt% or, more particularly, 15 wt% of a yarn having elastic properties (e.g. elastane).
  • a yarn having elastic properties e.g. elastane.
  • the use of yarns with elastic properties helps the fabric product to retain its 3D shape, this is because: the recovery properties of the elastic material ensure that the shape is maintained; and/or the elastic material reduced the drapeability of the fabric and provides the fabric with structural support, thereby enabling the fabric to maintain its shape.
  • the use of elastic fibres may also add stretchability to the fabric material, leading to increased wearer comfort.
  • the three dimensional shape of a fabric product according to the invention may not exactly conform to the three dimensional shape of the body of a wearer.
  • the use of an elastic material may enable the fabric product to better conform to the body of a wearer.
  • Elastic materials may also be useful in certain specific applications, such as sportswear (e.g. sports bras).
  • the first and second sets of yarns may each comprise a main yarn and a platting yarn, where each main yarn forms an outer surface and the platting yarn forms an interior surface of the respective first and second surface layers.
  • the outer surface of the first and second surface layers refers to the exterior side of the respective layer, i.e. the surface of the first and second surface layers that is exposed to the environment or a wearer’s body.
  • the inner surface of the first and second surface layers refers to the interior surface of the respective layer, i.e. the surface of the first and second surface layers that is within the fabric product and exposed to the set of spacer yarns, and is not exposed to the environment or body of a wearer.
  • a wicking yarn may be used on an exterior surface that is intended to be in contact with the body of a wearer, to assist with wicking moisture away from a wearer’s skin.
  • a water repellent yarn might be desirable on an exterior surface that is intended to be exposed to the environment, in order to prevent the fabric product from becoming overly wet or saturated with moisture when worn outside in the rain.
  • the platting yarn of the first and second sets of yarns may be formed from a yarn having elastic properties.
  • the platting yarn may comprise at least 15 wt% of an elastic fibre (e.g. elastane).
  • the fabric product may be patterned to provide one or more of a bra cup, a bra cookie, and a bra.
  • the fabric product may comprise courses of different lengths that when knitted together result in a fabric product having a three-dimensional shape. This three-dimensional fabric product may therefore form, for example, a bra cup, a bra cookie or a bra.
  • the fabric may be a bra cup or bra cookie that is patterned to have a first, second and third tuck stitch region, each region having a different density of tuck stitches, such that: the first tuck stitch region corresponds to an outer peripheral region of the cup and has a tuck stitch density lower than the second region; the second tuck stitch region corresponds to a region of the cup between the first and third regions and has a tuck stitch density lower than the third region; the third tuck stitch region corresponds to a central region of the cup and has a tuck stitch density higher than the first and second regions.
  • the fabric may be a bra cup or bra cookie that is patterned to have a first, a second, a third, a fourth and a fifth spacer yarn thickness region, each region having a different thickness for the sets of spacer yarn, such that: the first spacer yarn thickness region corresponds to an outer peripheral region of the cup and has a set of spacer yarn with a diameter lower than a set of spacer yarn used in the second region; the second spacer yarn thickness region corresponds to a region of the cup between the first and third regions and has a set of spacer yarn with a diameter lower than a set of spacer yarn used in the third region; the third spacer yarn thickness region corresponds to a central region of the cup and has a spacer yarn diameter higher than a spacer yarn used in the first and second regions the fourth spacer yarn thickness region corresponds to a region of the cup between the third and fifth regions and has a set of spacer yarn with a diameter lower than a set of spacer yarn used in the
  • the length of all tuck stitches may be substantially identical.
  • the outer fabric’s appearance may visibly change. When the tuck stitch length is maintained, there will be no difference in the outer fabric’s appearance.
  • the 3-dimensional shape may be at least partly supplied by a 3-dimensional knitting pattern, as described in more detail herein.
  • the invention also provides a garment comprising a weft knit spacer fabric disclosed herein.
  • Figure 1 depicts a pattern for a fabric 100 according to the current invention.
  • the frequency of tuck stitches controls the thickness of the fabric in one direction (e.g. in the X direction), while the yarn count (diameter/thickness) of the set of spacer yarn used allows for the thickness of the fabric to be controlled in the other direction (e.g. in the Y direction).
  • a combination of frequency of tuck stiches and the different (various thickness) spacer yarns used along/across the fabric allows for thickness variation in both the X and Y directions.
  • the fabric 100 is formed by a plurality of courses (e.g. course 101).
  • a typical course is formed by front (e.g. denoted by the notation shown as 102), back (e.g. denoted by the notation shown as 103), front tuck (e.g. denoted by the notation shown as 104) and back tuck stitches (e.g. denoted by the notation shown as 105), or combinations thereof.
  • the fabric contains three tuck stitch density zones 110, 111 and 112, each with a varying density of tuck stitches.
  • the first zone 110 has the lowest density of tuck stiches
  • the second zone 111 has a higher number of tuck stiches and so it has a greater thickness than the first zone 110.
  • the third zone has the highest density and so it has an even greater thickness compared to the second zone. It is noticeable that the tuck stitch density may vary within a course, with courses 113, 114 and 115 showing all three densities within a single course.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un textile d'espacement à mailles de trame ayant des épaisseurs variables, le textile étant formé à partir : d'une première couche de surface formée à partir d'un premier ensemble de fils ; d'une seconde couche de surface formée à partir d'un second ensemble de fils ; et d'un ensemble de fils d'espacement entre la première et la seconde couche de surface, le textile étant formé à partir d'une pluralité de rangées des ensembles de premiers, de seconds et de fils d'espacement, chaque rangée étant reliée à au moins une autre rangée dans une direction de colonne de mailles, l'épaisseur étant modifiée en faisant varier l'une ou les deux parmi : une densité de mailles de repli le long de chaque rangée, chaque maille de repli étant formée par le fil d'espacement avec les première et/ou seconde couches de surface ; et une épaisseur de l'ensemble de fils d'espacement. Le textile est modelé pour fournir une forme tridimensionnelle autoportante qui a un volume interne défini par la surface de la première ou de la seconde couche de surface, et les premier et second ensembles de fils comprennent un matériau élastique, à condition que le textile soit un textile qui n'a pas été soumis à une étape de moulage.
PCT/SG2021/050495 2020-10-21 2021-08-24 Textile à mailles tridimensionnelles à variation bidirectionnelle d'épaisseur WO2022086439A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (5)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
EP21762824.7A EP4232624A1 (fr) 2020-10-21 2021-08-24 Textile à mailles tridimensionnelles à variation bidirectionnelle d'épaisseur
US18/249,644 US20230392304A1 (en) 2020-10-21 2021-08-24 A 3-dimensionally-knit fabric with bi-directional variation in thickness
EP21787514.5A EP4081676A1 (fr) 2020-10-21 2021-10-11 Tissu ayant des propriétés de tissu variables
PCT/SG2021/050609 WO2022086441A1 (fr) 2020-10-21 2021-10-11 Tissu ayant des propriétés de tissu variables
US17/819,356 US20230010185A1 (en) 2020-10-21 2022-08-12 Fabric with variable fabric properties

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
SG10202010445Y 2020-10-21
SG10202010445Y 2020-10-21

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2022086439A1 true WO2022086439A1 (fr) 2022-04-28

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ID=77543577

Family Applications (2)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/SG2021/050494 WO2022086438A1 (fr) 2020-10-21 2021-08-24 Tissu à variation d'épaisseur bidirectionnelle
PCT/SG2021/050495 WO2022086439A1 (fr) 2020-10-21 2021-08-24 Textile à mailles tridimensionnelles à variation bidirectionnelle d'épaisseur

Family Applications Before (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/SG2021/050494 WO2022086438A1 (fr) 2020-10-21 2021-08-24 Tissu à variation d'épaisseur bidirectionnelle

Country Status (3)

Country Link
US (1) US20230392304A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP4232624A1 (fr)
WO (2) WO2022086438A1 (fr)

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20040097151A1 (en) * 2002-11-16 2004-05-20 Mcmurray Brian Decorative faced multi-layer weft knit spacer fabric, method, and articles made therefrom
WO2016197051A1 (fr) * 2015-06-03 2016-12-08 Lululemon Athletica Canada Inc. Soutien-gorge tricoté et son procédé de fabrication
WO2019197319A1 (fr) * 2018-04-13 2019-10-17 Basf Se Tricot tridimensionnel à trame et son procédé de préparation, utilisation de la trame pour la préparation d'un matériau composite et matériau composite le comprenant

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20040097151A1 (en) * 2002-11-16 2004-05-20 Mcmurray Brian Decorative faced multi-layer weft knit spacer fabric, method, and articles made therefrom
WO2016197051A1 (fr) * 2015-06-03 2016-12-08 Lululemon Athletica Canada Inc. Soutien-gorge tricoté et son procédé de fabrication
WO2019197319A1 (fr) * 2018-04-13 2019-10-17 Basf Se Tricot tridimensionnel à trame et son procédé de préparation, utilisation de la trame pour la préparation d'un matériau composite et matériau composite le comprenant

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
US20230392304A1 (en) 2023-12-07
WO2022086438A1 (fr) 2022-04-28
EP4232624A1 (fr) 2023-08-30

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