WO2021128054A1 - Composition pour le conditionnement de fibres kératiniques - Google Patents

Composition pour le conditionnement de fibres kératiniques Download PDF

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WO2021128054A1
WO2021128054A1 PCT/CN2019/128217 CN2019128217W WO2021128054A1 WO 2021128054 A1 WO2021128054 A1 WO 2021128054A1 CN 2019128217 W CN2019128217 W CN 2019128217W WO 2021128054 A1 WO2021128054 A1 WO 2021128054A1
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composition
composition according
silicone
segment
oil
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PCT/CN2019/128217
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English (en)
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Junliang Zhang
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L'oreal
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Priority to PCT/CN2019/128217 priority Critical patent/WO2021128054A1/fr
Priority to CN201980103284.8A priority patent/CN114901248B/zh
Publication of WO2021128054A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021128054A1/fr

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9706Algae
    • A61K8/9722Chlorophycota or Chlorophyta [green algae], e.g. Chlorella
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31Hydrocarbons
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • A61K8/411Aromatic amines, i.e. where the amino group is directly linked to the aromatic nucleus
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A61K8/892Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone modified by a hydroxy group, e.g. dimethiconol
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition for conditioning keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for conditioning keratin fibres.
  • the hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light, weather, and/or the action of mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent and/or straightening.
  • the process of altering the color of hair can involve either depositing an artificial color onto the hair, which provides a different shade or color to the hair, or lifting the color of the hair, for example, from a dark brown shade to a medium brown or a light brown shade.
  • Hair is thus damaged by these various factors and may over time become dry, coarse or dull, especially in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends leading to split ends.
  • compositions for conditioning the keratin fibres in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, which would make the hair more manageable, provide a color retouch effect for an expected period of time, and meanwhile give the hair a clean feel.
  • An object of the present invention is thus to develop a composition for conditioning the keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, which would make the keratin fibres more manageable, provide a color retouch effect and give the keratin fibres a clean feel, and all these benefits can be maintained for long time, for example 24 hours.
  • the present invention provides a composition for conditioning keratin fibres comprising:
  • the present invention provides a cosmetic process for conditioning keratin fibres comprising applying the composition as described above onto the keratin fibres.
  • the composition would make keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair more manageable, provide a color retouch effect and give the keratin fibres a clean feel, and all these benefits can be maintained for at least 24 hours.
  • Fig. 1 is a photo of the hair swatch before the application of the leave-on oil of invention formula 1;
  • Fig. 2 is a photo of the same hair swatch as shown in Fig. 1 at 24 hours after application of the leave-on oil of invention formula 1 (T24h) ;
  • Fig. 3 shows the lust BNT value of the bleached hair swatches treated with the leave-on oil of invention formula 1 immediately after application (T0) and that of at 24 hours after application (T24h) .
  • keratin fibers includes animal keratin fibers and human keratin fibers such as the hair.
  • keratin fibres includes animal keratin fibres and human keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • the term “manageable” means the hair is aligned, curl of the hair are regular and remained.
  • the composition can be used to resist the dullness and yellowish, especially on the tips of the hair, to render the color of the hair to be shiny and even.
  • a composition for conditioning keratin fibres comprises:
  • the composition comprises at least one lipophilic dye.
  • the lipophilic dye is selected from natural or synthetic lipophilic dyes.
  • the lipophilic dye is selected from DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto, curcumin, carotenes, xanthophylls, lipophilic green dyes and a mixture thereof.
  • carotenes mention can be made to, in particular, ⁇ -carotene, ⁇ -carotene, lycopene.
  • ⁇ -carotene will be used more particularly (CI 40800, CI 75130, Food Orange 5 or Natural Yellow 26) .
  • the ⁇ -carotene molecule is a chain consisting of 8 isoprenic units with alternating single and double bonds, and has the following formula:
  • ⁇ -carotene is found in some fruits and vegetables: pepper, carrot, spinach, lettuce, tomato, sweet potato, broccoli, cantaloupe, squash, apricot.
  • ⁇ -carotene can be obtained either by extraction, by synthesis or by biotechnological means. Natural ⁇ -carotene comes mainly from red palm oil and alfalfa and also from carrot oil.
  • ⁇ -carotene will be used in the form of a dispersion in an oil such as a 30%dispersion of ⁇ -carotene in sunflower oil, such as the product sold under the trade name 409185 CAROTENE-DISPERSION NATURAL 30%L-OS E-160A manufactured by LCW -Sensient Cosmetic Technologies or the 30%dispersion in corn oil, such as the product sold under the trade name 30%Beta Carotene FS (Fluid Suspension) by the company DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.
  • an oil such as a 30%dispersion of ⁇ -carotene in sunflower oil, such as the product sold under the trade name 409185 CAROTENE-DISPERSION NATURAL 30%L-OS E-160A manufactured by LCW -Sensient Cosmetic Technologies or the 30%dispersion in corn oil, such as the product sold under the trade name 30%Beta Carotene FS (Fluid Suspension) by the company DSM Nutritional Products, Inc.
  • Astaxanthin is usually extracted from the alga Haematococcus pluvialis. It belongs to the family of terpenes, and is part of the phytochemicals. It is present in crustaceans (crabs, shrimps, lobster, crayfish, lobsters) , salmon, sea bream and in the feathers of some birds. It can be considered as the ultimate term of a series of hydroxylations and oxidations from ⁇ -carotene.
  • the astaxanthin will be used in the form of a dispersion in an oil such as a 5%dispersion of astaxanthin from Euphausia Superba in a caprylic/capric triglyceride mixture such as the product sold under the name Commercial ASTAX-Sby the company ITANO REFRIGERATED FOOD, or a dispersion of 4.5-7%asthaxanthin in a caprylic/capric triglyceride mixture extracted from seaweed HAEMATOCOCCUS PLUVIALIS as the product sold under the trade name ASTA TROL-X by FUJI COLOR, or the product sold under the trade name BIOASTIN 5%OLEORESIN by the company CYANOTECH.
  • an oil such as a 5%dispersion of astaxanthin from Euphausia Superba in a caprylic/capric triglyceride mixture such as the product sold under the name Commercial ASTAX-Sby the company ITANO REFRIGERATED FO
  • asthaxanthin dispersions in a caprylic/capric triglyceride mixture extracted from HAEMATOCOCCUS PLUVIALIS algae such as AM Asta-SOD commercial products from Athena Co LTD; the Astaxanthin-5C and Astaxanthin-PC1 commercial products by Oryza Oil &Fat Chemical Co.
  • green dye any organic cosmetic or dermatological dye capable of absorbing light radiation of wavelength between 400 and 500 nm and those of wavelength between 600 and 700 nm.
  • quinizarin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1, 4-Di-p-toluidoanthraquinone, Green No. 202, Quinizarin Green SS) of formula:
  • chlorophylls may also be mentioned more preferably.
  • Chlorophylls consist of four ring-shaped pyrrole rings as a complex of a divalent cation and a long-chain alcohol such as phytol.
  • a divalent cation such as phytol.
  • the divalent cation (s) present in chlorophylls are generally selected from alkali metals such as sodium or potassium, alkaline earth metals such as calcium, magnesium and transition metals such as copper and iron or mixtures thereof.
  • a chlorophyll in the form of a copper complex and more particularly in the form of a dispersion in an oil such as sunflower oil or grape seed oil, such as the commercial products CHLOROPHYLLE LIPOSOLUBLE W 7208, 503509 COPPER CHLOROPHYLL 15% L -OS and CHLOROPHYLLE LIPOSOLUBLE W 7208 sold by LCW -Sensient Cosmetic Technologies.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises lipophilic dye (s) selected from D&C Violet 2 (C.I. 60725) , beta-carotene (C.I. 75130) , astaxanthin, and mixtures thereof.
  • lipophilic dye selected from D&C Violet 2 (C.I. 60725) , beta-carotene (C.I. 75130) , astaxanthin, and mixtures thereof.
  • the lipophilic dye is present in amount ranging from 0.001 wt. %to 2 wt. %, preferably from 0.002 wt. %to 1 wt. %, more preferably from 0.002 wt. %to 0.8 wt.%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises at least one copolymer containing a silicone resin segment and a fluid silicone segment, also called as “silicone copolymer” in the present application.
  • the silicone copolymer is derived from the reaction between a silicone resin and a fluid silicone. These copolymers are described in patent applications WO 03/026 596, WO 2004/073 626, WO 2007/051 505 and WO 2007/051 506 for various cosmetic applications on hair and nails and for pharmaceutical applications on the skin.
  • copolymers are also described, for example, in “Silicone Pressure Sensitive Adhesive” , Sobieski and Tangney, Handbook of Pressure Sensitive Adhesive Technology (D. Satas Ed. ) , Von Nostrand Reinhold, New York.
  • the silicone resin segment of the copolymer is a MQ type silicone resin.
  • MQ type silicone resins include, but are not limited to: (i) the alkyl siloxysilicates of formula [ (R1) 3 SiO 1/2 ] x (SiO 4/2 ) y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and the group R1 represents a hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group, and preferably is an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group; and (ii) phenylalkyl siloxysilicate resins, the alkyl of the phenylalkyl is as defined above, such as phenylpropyldimethyl siloxysilicate.
  • MQ type silicone resins also include, but are not limited to, trimethyl siloxysilicate type, such as those sold under the reference SR1000 by the company General Electric, under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker, or under the name KF-7312J by the company Shin-Etsu or DC 749 or DC 593 by the company Dow Corning.
  • MQ type silicone resins further include, but are not limited to, MQ siloxysilicate units, such as phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins like phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate (Silshine 151 sold by the company General Electric) .
  • MQ siloxysilicate units such as phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins like phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate (Silshine 151 sold by the company General Electric) .
  • the fluid silicone segment of the copolymer according to the present invention bears an OH end function group.
  • the fluid silicone segment is a diorganopolysiloxane bearing OH end functions, having a viscosity of between 100 and 100,000 cSt at 25°C (determined with Brookfield viscometer using ASTMD-445 method) , for which the substituent (s) of the diorganopolysiloxane are independently chosen from methyl, ethyl, propyl and vinyl radicals.
  • the diorganopolysiloxanes are preferably linear polymers.
  • diorganopolysiloxanes may be, in a non-limiting manner, a polydimethylsiloxane, an ethylmethyl polysiloxane, a copolymer of dimethylsiloxane and of methylvinylsiloxane, and mixtures of such polymers or copolymers containing OH end groups.
  • the preferred diorganopolysiloxane is a polydimethylsiloxane.
  • copolymers according to the present invention may be prepared by heating the following mixture of:
  • silicone resin being the product of condensation of SiO 2 and R 3 (SiO) 1/2 units for which each group R is independently selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl and vinyl radicals and for which the ratio between the SiO 2 functions and the R 3 (SiO) 1/2 functions of the silicone resin ranges from 0.6 to 0.9;
  • a suitable catalyst which is preferably an organic aliphatic amine compound preferably chosen from primary amines, secondary amines, tertiary amines, carboxylic acid salts of the amines mentioned above and quaternary ammonium salts.
  • the mixture is heated to a temperature of between 80°C and 160°C until the adhesive nature of the resulting silicone copolymer is obtained.
  • the silicone resin is present in a content of between 45%and 75%(relative to the total mass of silicone) and the fluid silicone is present in a content of between 25%and 55%, the sum of the percentages of silicone resin and of fluid silicone being equal to 100.
  • the silicone resin is present in a content of between 55%and 65% (relative to the total mass of silicone) and the fluid silicone is present in a content of between 35%and 45%, the sum of the percentages of silicone resin and of fluid silicone being equal to 100.
  • copolymers that are preferred according to the present invention are sold by Dow Corning under the reference and DOWSIL TM . Mention may be made especially of the grades 7-4400, 7-4405, 7-4500 and 7-4600 for and FC-5001 CM Resin Gum, FC-5002 IDD Resin Gum and FC-5004 DM Resin Gum for DOWSIL TM .
  • the copolymer containing a silicone resin segment and a fluid silicone segment is present in an amount ranging from 0.5 wt. %to 10 wt. %, preferably from 0.8 wt. %to 8 wt. %, more preferably from 1 wt. %to 6 wt. %, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises at least one oil.
  • oil means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid) at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
  • oil (s) those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oil (s) may be volatile or non-volatile, preferably non-volatile.
  • the oil may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a plant or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.
  • the oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of plant or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.
  • plant oils examples include, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane
  • ester oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane
  • ether oils such as triglycerides
  • the ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
  • esters of monoalcohols Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid, from which the esters of the present invention are derived, is branched.
  • ethyl palmitate ethyl hexyl palmitate
  • isopropyl palmitate dicaprylyl carbonate
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate
  • isocetyl stearate 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate
  • isononyl isononanoate isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.
  • esters of C 4 -C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols, and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C 4 -C 26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids.
  • sucrose means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • suitable sugars include sucrose (or saccharose) , glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be selected especially from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or non-conjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.
  • monoesters and diesters and especially sucrose, glucose or methylglucose monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates.
  • ester oils mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hex
  • artificial triglycerides mention may be made of, for example, caprylic/capric triglyceride, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, and glyceryl tri (caprate/caprylate/linolenate) .
  • silicone oils mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
  • linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like
  • cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodeca
  • silicone oil is selected from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, especially liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.
  • PDMS liquid polydimethylsiloxanes
  • silicone oils may also be organomodified.
  • organomodified silicones that can be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
  • Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968) , Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the silicones are more particularly selected from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms.
  • These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile 7207 by Union Carbide or 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile 7158 by Union Carbide, 70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the type such as dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane, such as Silicone FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:
  • Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly selected from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.
  • oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the oils sold by Rhodia for instance the oil 70 047 V 500 000;
  • oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm 2 /s;
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • silicones containing aryl groups are polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names:
  • oils of the SF series from General Electric such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.
  • the organomodified liquid silicones may especially contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. Mention may thus be made of the silicone KF-6017 proposed by Shin-Etsu, and the oils L722 and L77 from the company Union Carbide.
  • Hydrocarbon oils may be selected from:
  • hydrocarbon oils As preferable examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil(e.g., liquid paraffin) , paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil(e.g., liquid paraffin) , paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty in the fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 4 or more, preferably 6 or more, and more preferably 12 or more carbon atoms are encompassed within the scope of fatty alcohols.
  • the fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated.
  • the fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.
  • the fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • R may be selected from C 12 -C 20 alkyl and C 12 -C 20 alkenyl groups.
  • R may be or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.
  • fatty alcohol examples include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty alcohol be a saturated fatty alcohol.
  • the fatty alcohol may be selected from straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 -C 30 alcohols, preferably straight or branched, saturated C 6 -C 30 alcohols, and more preferably straight or branched, saturated C 12 -C 20 alcohols.
  • saturated fatty alcohol here means an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol be selected from any linear or branched, saturated C 6 -C 30 fatty alcohols. Among the linear or branched, saturated C 6 -C 30 fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated C 12 -C 20 fatty alcohols may preferably be used. Any linear or branched, saturated C 16 -C 20 fatty alcohols may be more preferably used. Branched C 16 -C 20 fatty alcohols may be even more preferably used.
  • saturated fatty alcohols mention may be made of isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof, can be used as a saturated fatty alcohol.
  • the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably selected from octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and mixtures thereof.
  • the oil is selected from branched alkane oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 16 carbon atoms such as isododecane, triglycerides, polydimethylsiloxanes optionally containing dimethylsilanol end groups such as dimethicones, dimethiconols, a mixture thereof.
  • the oil is present in amount ranging from 80 wt. %to 98.5 wt. %, preferably from 91 wt. %to 97.5 wt. %, more preferably from 93.5 wt. %to 97 wt. %, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention be anhydrous.
  • anhydrous here means that the composition according to the present invention may contain only a small amount of water, preferably no water.
  • the amount of water may be 2 wt. %or less, preferably 1.5 wt. %or less, and more preferably 1 wt.%or less relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention contains no water.
  • composition according to the present invention is advantageously a cosmetic composition.
  • composition according to the present invention may also comprise an effective amount of other ingredients, known previously elsewhere in cosmetic compositions, such as various common adjuvants, vitamins or provitamins, for instance, panthenol, opacifiers, fragrances, plant extracts, thickeners, cationic polymers and so on.
  • other ingredients known previously elsewhere in cosmetic compositions, such as various common adjuvants, vitamins or provitamins, for instance, panthenol, opacifiers, fragrances, plant extracts, thickeners, cationic polymers and so on.
  • the present invention provides a composition for conditioning keratin fibres comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • the silicone resin segment is an alkyl siloxysilicate of formula [ (R1) 3 SiO 1/2 ] x (SiO 4/2 ) y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and the group R1 is an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms
  • the fluid silicone segment is a diorganopolysiloxane bearing OH end functions , having a viscosity of between 100 and 100,000 cSt at 25°C (determined with Brookfield viscometer using ASTMD-445 method) , for which the substituent (s) of the diorganopolysiloxane are independently chosen from methyl, ethyl, propyl and vinyl; and
  • At least one oil selected from branched alkane oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, triglycerides, polydimethylsiloxanes optionally containing dimethylsilanol end groups, a mixture thereof.
  • compositions according to above preferred embodiment provides very good results in term of manageability and clean feel of the keratin fibres as well as colour retouch effect.
  • composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing ingredients a) to c) , as essential ingredients, as well as additional ingredient (s) , as explained above.
  • the method and means to mix the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means can be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention.
  • composition according to the present invention can be uniform.
  • composition according to the present invention can be a conditioner, a leave-on product, for example, a leave-on oil.
  • composition can be done on wet or dry hair.
  • a cosmetic process for conditioning keratin fibres comprising applying the composition as described above onto the keratin materials.
  • Leave-on oils according to invention formula (Inv. ) 1 and comparative formulas (comp. ) 1-2 were prepared (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material with regard to the total weight of each leave-on oil, unless otherwise indicated) :
  • the leave-on oil of comparative formula 1 comprises TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE instead of a copolymer containing a silicone resin segment and a fluid silicone segment.
  • the leave-on oil of comparative formula 2 does not comprise any resin.
  • the leave-on oils listed above were prepared by cold mixing all ingredients together evenly.
  • Example 1 Each leave-on oil prepared in Example 1 was applied to one curly hair swatch from a same batch, and the hair swatch was observed immediately after application (T0) and 24 hours after application (T24h) .
  • the manageability (in terms of alignment, curl retention and regularity) and clean feel (in terms of not oily, not sticky and not greasy) of the treated hair swatch was scored immediately after application (T0) and 24 hours after application (T24h) .
  • Each leave-on oil was applied to one straight bleached hair swatch from a same batch and one curly bleached hair swatch from a same batch, and the hair swatch was observed immediately after application (T0) and 24 hours after application (T24h) .
  • the color retouch effect (in terms of shininess and evenness of color) on the bleached hair swatch treated with each leave-on oil prepared in Example 1 was scored immediately after application (T0) and 24 hours after application (T24h) .

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Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition de conditionnement de fibres kératiniques qui comprend : a) au moins un colorant lipophile ; b) au moins un copolymère contenant un segment de résine de silicone et un segment de silicone fluide ; et c) au moins une huile.
PCT/CN2019/128217 2019-12-25 2019-12-25 Composition pour le conditionnement de fibres kératiniques WO2021128054A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

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PCT/CN2019/128217 WO2021128054A1 (fr) 2019-12-25 2019-12-25 Composition pour le conditionnement de fibres kératiniques
CN201980103284.8A CN114901248B (zh) 2019-12-25 2019-12-25 用于调理角蛋白纤维的组合物

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PCT/CN2019/128217 WO2021128054A1 (fr) 2019-12-25 2019-12-25 Composition pour le conditionnement de fibres kératiniques

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US20130236408A1 (en) * 2012-03-12 2013-09-12 L'oreal Cosmetic compositions based on a supramolecular polymer, a hyperbranched functional polymer, a light silicone fluid, a copolymer of a silicone resin and a fluid silicone, and a functional filler
US20130236406A1 (en) * 2012-03-12 2013-09-12 L'oreal S.A. Cosmetic compositions based on a supramolecular polymer, a hyperbranched functional polymer, a light silicone fluid and a copolymer of a silicone resin and a fluid silicone
CN104379115A (zh) * 2012-06-29 2015-02-25 莱雅公司 染色角蛋白纤维的双涂层方法
CN104427967A (zh) * 2012-06-29 2015-03-18 莱雅公司 用包含疏水性成膜聚合物、至少一种挥发性溶剂和至少一种颜料的组合物在角蛋白纤维上形成有色图案的方法

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EP1792640A1 (fr) * 2005-12-02 2007-06-06 Wella Aktiengesellschaft Crème de coiffrage
FR2918562B1 (fr) * 2007-07-13 2009-10-16 Oreal Composition cosmetique anhydre comprenant un copolymere silicone adhesif sensible a la pression, une silicone volatile et une silicone fluide particuliere
FR2924939B1 (fr) * 2007-12-13 2010-02-26 Oreal Procede de coloration des cheveux a partir d'une composition comprenant un polymere filmogene hydrophobe, un pigment et un solvant volatil
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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN102497849A (zh) * 2009-08-10 2012-06-13 莱雅公司 包含特定的有机硅共聚物、挥发性溶剂和金属颗粒的化妆品组合物
US20130236408A1 (en) * 2012-03-12 2013-09-12 L'oreal Cosmetic compositions based on a supramolecular polymer, a hyperbranched functional polymer, a light silicone fluid, a copolymer of a silicone resin and a fluid silicone, and a functional filler
US20130236406A1 (en) * 2012-03-12 2013-09-12 L'oreal S.A. Cosmetic compositions based on a supramolecular polymer, a hyperbranched functional polymer, a light silicone fluid and a copolymer of a silicone resin and a fluid silicone
CN104379115A (zh) * 2012-06-29 2015-02-25 莱雅公司 染色角蛋白纤维的双涂层方法
CN104427967A (zh) * 2012-06-29 2015-03-18 莱雅公司 用包含疏水性成膜聚合物、至少一种挥发性溶剂和至少一种颜料的组合物在角蛋白纤维上形成有色图案的方法

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