WO2021121724A1 - Procédé de coloration de matières kératiniques, comprenant l'utilisation d'un alcoxysilane en c1 à c6 organique, d'un composé colorant et de gomme laque - Google Patents

Procédé de coloration de matières kératiniques, comprenant l'utilisation d'un alcoxysilane en c1 à c6 organique, d'un composé colorant et de gomme laque Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021121724A1
WO2021121724A1 PCT/EP2020/079187 EP2020079187W WO2021121724A1 WO 2021121724 A1 WO2021121724 A1 WO 2021121724A1 EP 2020079187 W EP2020079187 W EP 2020079187W WO 2021121724 A1 WO2021121724 A1 WO 2021121724A1
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Prior art keywords
composition
group
stands
pigments
organic
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PCT/EP2020/079187
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Gabriele Weser
Ulrike Schumacher
Jing Hodes
Claudia Kolonko
Juergen Schoepgens
Marc NOWOTTNY
Phillip Jaiser
Carsten MATHIASZYK
Torsten LECHNER
Caroline KRIENER
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2021121724A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021121724A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/927—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of insects, e.g. shellac
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/432—Direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884—Sequential application

Definitions

  • a method of coloring keratin material comprising the use of an organic C1-C6 alkoxysilane, a coloring compound and shellac
  • the present application is in the field of cosmetics and relates to a method for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair, which comprises the use of two compositions (A) and (B).
  • the composition (A) is a composition which contains at least one organic Ci-C6-alkoxysilane (A1) and at least one coloring compound (A2).
  • the application also describes multi-component packaging units (kit-of-parts) for coloring keratinic material.
  • Oxidation dyes are usually used for permanent, intensive dyeings with good fastness properties and good gray coverage. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components, which, under the influence of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, form the actual dyes with one another. Oxidation dyes are characterized by very long-lasting dyeing results.
  • color pigments are generally understood to mean insoluble, coloring substances. These are undissolved in the form of small particles in the dye formulation and are only deposited on the outside of the hair fibers and / or the surface of the skin. Therefore, they can usually be removed without leaving any residue by a few washes with detergents containing surfactants. Various products of this type are available on the market under the name of hair mascara.
  • EP 2168633 B1 deals with the problem of producing long-lasting hair colorations using pigments.
  • the document teaches that when a combination of pigment, organic silicon compound, hydrophobic polymer and a solvent is used, hair can be colored which is particularly resistant to abrasion and / or shampooing.
  • the organic silicon compounds used in EP 2168633 B1 are reactive compounds from the class of alkoxysilanes. These alkoxysilanes hydrolyze in the presence of water at high speed and - depending on the amounts of alkoxysilane and water used in each case - form hydrolysis products and / or condensation products.
  • a film or also a coating is formed on the keratin material, which completely envelops the keratin material and in this way strongly influences the properties of the keratin material.
  • Possible areas of application are, for example, permanent styling or the permanent change in shape of keratin fibers.
  • the keratin fibers are mechanically brought into the desired shape and then fixed in this shape by forming the above-described coating.
  • Another very particularly suitable application is the coloring of keratin material;
  • the coating or the film is produced in the presence of a coloring compound, for example a pigment.
  • the film colored by the pigment remains on the keratin material or the keratin fibers and results in surprisingly wash-resistant colorations.
  • a major advantage of the alkoxysilane-based coloring principle is that the high reactivity of this class of compounds enables very fast coating. In this way, good staining results can be achieved after a short application period of just a few minutes. The shorter the exposure times for the hair treatment agent, the greater the comfort for the user. With regard to the durability of the dye, in particular its wash fastness and / or abrasion resistance, there is still room for improvement.
  • the keratin material is colored in a process in which two compositions (A) and (B) are applied to the keratin material.
  • the first composition (A) contains at least one organic Ci-C6-alkoxysilane and / or its condensation product and also at least one coloring compound.
  • the second composition (B) is characterized by a content of shellac.
  • a first object of the present invention is a method for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair, in which the keratinic material is used:
  • (A2) at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments and substantive dyes
  • composition (A) was applied to the keratin material as part of a coloring process, an increase in the intensity of the color was found especially when the composition (B) was applied to the keratin material in the form of an aftertreatment agent after the composition (A) had been applied .
  • intensification of the color intensity an improvement in the wash fastness and the rub fastness could surprisingly also be observed in this context.
  • Keratin material or keratin material are to be understood as meaning hair, the skin, the nails (such as fingernails and / or toenails, for example). Furthermore, wool, furs and feathers also fall under the definition of keratinic material.
  • Keratinic material is preferably understood to mean human hair, human skin and human nails, in particular fingernails and toenails. Keratinic material is very particularly preferably understood to mean human hair.
  • composition for coloring is used in the context of this invention for a coloring of the keratin material, in particular the hair, caused by the use of coloring compounds such as thermochromic and photochromic dyes, pigments, mica, substantive dyes.
  • coloring compounds such as thermochromic and photochromic dyes, pigments, mica, substantive dyes.
  • the aforementioned coloring compounds are deposited in a particularly homogeneous and smooth film on the surface of the keratin material or diffuse into the keratin fiber.
  • the film is formed in situ by oligomerization or polymerization of the organic alkoxysilane (s), and by the interaction of the coloring compound and the organic silicon compound and, optionally, further constituents, such as a film-forming polymer.
  • composition (A) is characterized in that it contains one or more organic C 1 -C 6 alkoxysilanes (A1) and / or their condensation products.
  • the organic Ci-C6-alkoxysilane (s) are organic, non-polymeric silicon compounds which are preferably selected from the group of silanes with one, two or three silicon atoms
  • Organic silicon compounds which are alternatively referred to as organosilicon compounds, are compounds that either have a direct silicon-carbon bond (Si-C) or in which the carbon is attached to the silicon via an oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur atom. Atom is linked.
  • the organic silicon compounds according to the invention are preferably compounds which contain one to three silicon atoms.
  • the organic silicon compounds particularly preferably contain one or two silicon atoms.
  • silane stands for a group of chemical compounds based on a silicon skeleton and hydrogen.
  • the hydrogen atoms have been completely or partially replaced by organic groups such as, for example, (substituted) alkyl groups and / or alkoxy groups.
  • Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes It is characteristic of the Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes that at least one Ci-C6-alkoxy group is bonded directly to a silicon atom.
  • the Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes according to the invention thus comprise at least one structural unit R'R "R” 'Si-0- (Ci-C6-alkyl) where the radicals R', R "and R” 'stand for the three remaining bond valences of the silicon atom .
  • the Ci-C6 alkoxy group or groups bonded to the silicon atom are very reactive and are hydrolyzed at high speed in the presence of water, the reaction rate also depending, among other things, on the number of hydrolyzable groups per molecule.
  • the organic silicon compound preferably contains a structural unit R’R “R“ ‘Si-0-CH2-CH3.
  • the radicals R ‘, R“ and R “‘ again represent the three remaining free valences of the silicon atom.
  • a condensation product is understood to mean a product that is formed by the reaction of at least two organic Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes with elimination of water and / or with elimination of a Ci-C6-alkanol.
  • the condensation products can be, for example, dimers, but also trimers or oligomers, the condensation products being in equilibrium with the monomers.
  • composition (A) contains one or more organic Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes (A1) selected from silanes with one, two or three silicon atoms, the organic silicon compound also comprises one or more basic chemical functions.
  • This basic group can be, for example, an amino group, an alkylamino group or a dialkylamino group, which is preferably connected to a silicon atom via a linker.
  • the basic group is preferably an amino group, a Ci-C6-alkylamino group or a di (Ci-C6) alkylamino group.
  • composition (A) contains one or more organic Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes (A1) which are selected from the group of silanes with one, two or three silicon atoms, and where the Ci- C6-alkoxysilanes furthermore comprise one or more basic chemical functions.
  • Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes of the formula (S-I) and / or (S-II) were used in the process. Since, as already described above, hydrolysis / condensation begins even with traces of moisture, the condensation products of the Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes of the formula (S-I) and / or (S-II) are also included in this embodiment.
  • a method is characterized in that the first composition (A) contains one or more organic C1-C6 alkoxysilanes (A1) of the formula (S-I) and / or (S-II),
  • L stands for a linear or branched, divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group
  • R3, R4 independently of one another represent a Ci-C6-alkyl group, a, represents an integer from 1 to 3, and b represents the integer 3 - a, and
  • R5, R5 ‘, R5”, R6, R6 ‘and R6“ independently represent a Ci-C6-alkyl group
  • A, A ‘, A”, A “‘ and A ““ independently of one another represent a linear or branched, divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group
  • R7 and Rs independently of one another for a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C6-alkyl group, a hydroxy-Ci-C6-alkyl group, a C2-C6-alkenyl group, an amino-Ci-C6-alkyl group or a grouping of the formula (S- Ill) stand,
  • Ci-C6-alkyl group examples are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, s-butyl and t-butyl, n-pentyl and n-hexyl. Propyl, ethyl and methyl are preferred alkyl radicals.
  • Examples of a C2-C6-alkenyl group are vinyl, allyl, but-2-enyl, but-3-enyl and isobutenyl, preferred C2-C6-alkenyl radicals are vinyl and allyl.
  • a hydroxy-Ci-C6- alkyl groups are a hydroxymethyl, a 2-hydroxyethyl, a 2-hydroxypropyl, a 3-hydroxypropyl, a 4-hydroxybutyl group, a 5-hydroxypentyl and a 6-hydroxyhexyl group; a 2-hydroxyethyl group is particularly preferred.
  • Examples of an amino-Ci-C6-alkyl group are the aminomethyl group, the 2-aminoethyl group and the 3-aminopropyl group. The 2-aminoethyl group is particularly preferred.
  • Examples of a linear divalent Ci-C 2 o-alkylene group are, for example, the methylene group (-CH 2 -), the ethylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -), the propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 - ) and the butylene group (-CH 2 - CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -).
  • the propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -) is particularly preferred.
  • divalent alkylene groups can also be branched. Examples of branched, divalent C 3 -C 2 o-alkylene groups are (-CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -) and (-CH 2 -CH (CH 3 ) -CH 2 -)
  • RiR 2 NL-Si (OR 3 ) a (R4) b (Sl) the radicals Ri and R 2 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6-alkyl group.
  • the radicals Ri and R 2 are very particularly preferably both a hydrogen atom.
  • the organic silicon compound In the middle part of the organic silicon compound is the structural unit or the linker -L- which stands for a linear or branched, divalent Ci-C 2 o-alkylene group.
  • the divalent Ci-C 2 o -alkylene group can alternatively also be referred to as a divalent or divalent Ci-C 2 o-alkylene group, which means that each group -L- can form two bonds.
  • -L- is preferably a linear, divalent Ci-C 2 o-alkylene group.
  • -L- stands for a linear divalent Ci-C6-alkylene group.
  • Particularly preferably -L- stands for a methylene group (-CH 2 -), an ethylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -), a propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -) or a butylene group (-CH 2 - CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -).
  • L very particularly preferably represents a propylene group (—CH 2 —CH 2 —CH 2 -).
  • the radicals R3 and R4 independently of one another represent a Ci-C6-alkyl group, particularly preferably R3 and R4 independently of one another represent a methyl group or an ethyl group.
  • a stands for an integer from 1 to 3
  • b stands for the integer 3 - a. If a is 3, then b is 0. If a is 2, b is 1. If a is 1, b is 2.
  • Keratin treatment agents with particularly good properties could be produced if the composition (A) contains at least one organic Ci-C6-alkoxysilane of the formula (S-1) in which the radicals R3, R4 independently of one another represent a methyl group or an ethyl group.
  • composition (A) contains at least one organic Ci-C6-alkoxysilane of the formula (S-1) in which the radical a stands for the number 3. In this case, the remainder b stands for the number 0.
  • composition (A) contains one or more organic Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes of the formula (S-l), where
  • R3, R4 independently of one another represent a methyl group or an ethyl group
  • composition (A) contains at least one or more organic Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes of the formula (S-l),
  • R2 both stand for a hydrogen atom
  • - L stands for a linear, divalent Ci-C6-alkylene group, preferably for a propylene group (-CH2-CH2-) or for an ethylene group (-CH2-CH2-),
  • R3 stands for an ethyl group or a methyl group
  • R4 represents a methyl group or an ethyl group
  • a method is characterized in that the first composition (A) contains at least one organic Ci-C6-alkoxysilane (A1) of the formula (S-l) which is selected from the group of
  • organic silicon compounds of the formula (I) are commercially available.
  • (3-Aminopropyl) trimethoxysilane can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich, for example.
  • (3-Aminopropyl) triethoxysilane is also commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.
  • composition (A) can also contain one or more organic Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes of the formula (S-II),
  • organosilicon compounds of the formula (S-II) each have the silicon-containing groups (R50) c (R6) dSi and -Si (R6 ') d' (OR5 ') c at their two ends
  • each of the radicals e, f, g and h can independently represent the number 0 or 1, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals e, f, g and h is different from 0 .
  • an organic silicon compound of the formula (II) according to the invention contains at least one group from the group consisting of - (A) - and - [NR 7 - (A ')] - and - [0- (A ”) j- and - [NR 8 - (A ”')] -
  • the radicals R5, R5', R5 "independently of one another represent a Ci-C6-alkyl group.
  • the radicals R6, R6 'and R6 ′′ stand independently of one another for a Ci-C6-alkyl group.
  • c stands for an integer from 1 to 3, and d stands for the integer 3 - c. If c is 3, then d is 0. If c is 2, then d is 1. If c is 1, then d is 2.
  • d‘ stands for the integer 3 - c ‘. If c ‘stands for the number 3, then d‘ equals 0. If c clergy stands for the number 2, then d ‘equals 1. If c ‘stands for the number 1, then d‘ is 2.
  • composition (A) contains one or more organic Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes of the formula (S-II),
  • R5 and R5 ‘independently represent a methyl group or an ethyl group
  • the radicals e, f, g and h can independently represent the number 0 or 1, at least one radical from e, f, g and h being different from zero.
  • the abbreviations e, f, g and h define which of the groupings - (A) e - and - [NR7- (A ')] f - and - [0- (A ”)] g - and - [ NRs- (A ”')] h - are located in the central part of the organic silicon compound of the formula (II).
  • the radicals A, A ', A “, A”' and A “” stand independently of one another for a linear or branched, divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group.
  • the radicals A, A ', A “, A”' and A “” are preferably, independently of one another, a linear, divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group.
  • the radicals A, A ', A ", A"' and A “” are more preferably, independently of one another, a linear divalent Ci-C6-alkylene group.
  • the divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group can alternatively be referred to as a divalent or double-bonded Ci-C2o-alkylene group, which means that each grouping A, A ', A ", A"' and A "" can form two bonds.
  • the radicals A, A ', A “, A”' and A “” are particularly preferably, independently of one another, a methylene group (-CH2-), an ethylene group (-CH2-CH2-), a propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2) -) or a butylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-).
  • the radicals A, A ‘, A ′′, A ′′ and A ′′ ′′ very particularly preferably stand for a propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-).
  • the organic silicon compound of the invention of the formula (II) contains a structural grouping - [NR7- (A ')] -.
  • the organic silicon compound of the invention of the formula (II) contains a structural grouping - [NR8- (A "’)] -.
  • R? and Rs independently of one another for a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Ce-alkyl group, a hydroxy-Ci-C6-alkyl group, a C2-C6-alkenyl group, an amino-Ci-C6-alkyl group or a grouping of the formula (S-III )
  • the radicals R7 and R8 are very particularly preferably, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-alkenyl group, a 2-aminoethyl group or a grouping of the formula (S-III).
  • the organic silicon compound according to the invention contains the grouping [NR7- (A ') j, but not the grouping - [NR8- (A ”')] if the radical R7 is a grouping of the formula (III), the organic silicon compound comprises 3 reactive silane groups.
  • composition ⁇ ) contains one or more organic Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes (A1) of the formula (S-II)
  • - A and A 'independently of one another represent a linear, divalent Ci-C6-alkylene group and - R7 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-alkenyl group, a 2-aminoethyl group or a grouping of the formula (S-III).
  • composition (A) contains one or more organic Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes (A1) of the formula (S-II), where
  • - A and A ‘independently of one another represent a methylene group (-CH2-), an ethylene group (-CH2-CH2-) or a propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2), and
  • R7 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-alkenyl group, a 2-aminoethyl group or a grouping of the formula (S-III).
  • Bis (trimethoxysilylpropyl) amine with the CAS number 82985-35-1 can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich, for example.
  • Bis [3- (triethoxysilyl) propyl] amine with the CAS number 13497-18-2 can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich, for example.
  • N-methyl-3- (trimethoxysilyl) -N- [3- (trimethoxysilyl) propyl] -1-propanamine is alternatively also referred to as bis (3-trimethoxysilylpropyl) -N-methylamine and can be purchased commercially from Sigma-Aldrich or Fluorochem .
  • composition (A) contains one or more organic Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes of the formula (S-II) which are selected from the group of
  • Ci-C6-alkoxysilane (A1) of the formula (S-IV) was used in the process R 9 Si (ORio) k (Rn) m (S- IV).
  • the compounds of the formula (S-IV) are organic silicon compounds which are selected from silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms, the organic silicon compound comprising one or more hydrolyzable groups per molecule.
  • organic silicon compound or compounds of the formula (S-IV) can also be referred to as silanes of the alkyl-Ci-C6-alkoxysilane type,
  • - Rg stands for a Ci-Ci8-alkyl group
  • - R10 stands for a Ci-C6-alkyl group
  • a particularly preferred method is characterized in that the first composition (A) contains one or more organic C1-C6-
  • Rg stands for a Ci-Ci8-alkyl group
  • R11 stands for a Ci-C6-alkyl group
  • k stands for an integer from 1 to 3
  • m stands for the integer 3 - k, and / or their condensation products.
  • the radical Rg stands for a C1-C18-alkyl group.
  • This Ci-Ci8-alkyl group is saturated and can be linear or branched.
  • Rg is preferably a linear Ci-Cs-alkyl group.
  • Rg preferably stands for a methyl group, an ethyl group, an n-propyl group, an n-butyl group, an n-pentyl group, an n-hexyl group, an n-octyl group, an n-dodecyl group or an n-octadecyl group.
  • Rg particularly preferably stands for a methyl group, an ethyl group or an n-hexyl group.
  • the radical R10 stands for a C1-C6-alkyl group.
  • R10 particularly preferably represents a methyl group or an ethyl group.
  • the radical Rn stands for a C1-C6-alkyl group.
  • Rn particularly preferably represents a methyl group or an ethyl group.
  • k stands for an integer from 1 to 3, and m stands for the integer 3 - k. If k is 3, then m is 0. If k is 2, then m is 1. If k is 1, m is 2.
  • composition (A) contains at least one organic Ci-C6-alkoxysilane (A1) of the formula (S-IV) in which the remainder k stands for the number 3.
  • the remainder m stands for the number 0.
  • Organic silicon compounds of the formula (S-IV) which are particularly suitable for solving the problem are - methyltrimethoxysilane
  • n-dodecyltriethoxysilane also known as dodecyltriethoxysilane
  • n-octadecyltrimethoxysilane also referred to as octadecyltrimethoxysilane
  • n-octadecyltriethoxysilane also referred to as octadecyltriethoxysilane
  • a method is characterized in that the first composition (A) contains at least one organic Ci-C6-alkoxysilane (A1) of the formula (S-IV) which is selected from the group consisting of - methyltrimethoxysilane - methyltriethoxysilane
  • a method is characterized in that the first composition (A) contains at least two structurally different organic silicon compounds.
  • a method is characterized in that the first composition (A) contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (I) and at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (IV).
  • a method is characterized in that the first composition (A) contains:
  • At least one first organic silicon compound selected from the group consisting of (3-aminopropyl) trimethoxysilane, (3-aminopropyl) triethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl) trimethoxysilane, (2-aminoethyl) triethoxysilane, (3-dimethylaminopropyl) trimethoxysilane, ( 3-dimethylaminopropyl) triethoxysilane (2-dimethylaminoethyl) trimethoxysilane and (2-dimethylaminoethyl) triethoxysilane, and
  • At least one second organic silicon compound which is selected from the group consisting of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, propyltrimethoxysilane, propyltriethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane, hexyltriethoxysilane, hexyltriethoxysilane, hexyltriethoxhoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, diethoxecyltroxysilane, diethoxecyltroxysilane, diethoxecyltroxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, dieth
  • a method is characterized in that the first composition (A) contains: - At least one first organic silicon compound which comprises (3-aminopropyl) triethoxysilane, and
  • At least one second organic silicon compound which is selected from the group consisting of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, propyltrimethoxysilane, propyltriethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane, hexyltriethoxysilane, hexyltriethoxysilane, hexyltriethoxhoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, diethoxecyltroxysilane, diethoxecyltroxysilane, diethoxecyltroxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, octyltrimethoxysilane, dieth
  • a method is characterized in that the first composition (A) contains:
  • At least one first organic silicon compound which comprises (3-aminopropyl) triethoxysilane
  • At least one second organic silicon compound selected from the group consisting of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltriethoxysilane, hexyltriethoxysilane and octyltriethoxysilane.
  • hydrolysis or condensation products are, for example, the following compounds:
  • the hydrolysis reaction can also take place several times per Ci-C6-alkoxysilane used: or.
  • the hydrolysis reaction can also take place several times per Ci-C6-alkoxysilane used:
  • condensation reactions are for example (shown on the basis of the mixture (3-aminopropyl) triethoxysilane and methyltrimethoxysilane): and or In the above exemplary reaction schemes, the condensation to form a dimer is shown in each case, but further condensation to form oligomers with several silane atoms is also possible and also preferred.
  • Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes of the formula (S-l) which undergo a condensation with not yet reacted, partially or completely hydrolyzed Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes of the formula (S-l) can take part in these condensation reactions.
  • the Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes of the formula (S-l) react with themselves.
  • Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes of the formula (S1) can also take part in the condensation reactions, which condensation with not yet reacted, partially or completely hydrolyzed Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes of the formula (S-IV) run through.
  • the Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes of the formula (S-l) react with the Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes of the formula (S-IV).
  • Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes of the formula (S-IV) can also take part in the condensation reactions, which condensation with not yet reacted, partially or completely hydrolyzed Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes of the formula (S- IV) go through. In this case, the Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes of the formula (S-IV) react with themselves.
  • composition (A) according to the invention can contain one or more organic C1-C6-alkoxysilanes (A1) in various proportions.
  • the person skilled in the art determines this as a function of the desired thickness of the silane coating on the keratin material and of the amount of the keratin material to be treated.
  • a particularly preferred method is characterized in that the first composition (A) - based on the total weight of the composition (A) - one or more organic Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes (A2) and / or the condensation products thereof in one Total amount from 30.0 to 85.0% by weight, preferably from 35.0 to 80.0% by weight, more preferably from 40.0 to 75.0% by weight, even more preferably from 45.0 to 70.0% by weight and very particularly preferably from 50.0 contains up to 65.0% by weight.
  • the composition (A) contains at least one coloring compound (A2) from the group of pigments and substantive dyes.
  • the coloring compound (s) will be selected from pigments and substantive dyes, the substantive dyes also being able to be photochromic dyes and thermochromic dyes.
  • Composition (A) very particularly preferably contains at least one pigment.
  • Pigments in the context of the present invention are understood to mean coloring compounds which at 25 ° C. in water have a solubility of less than 0.5 g / L, preferably less than 0.1 g / L, even more preferably less than 0, 05 g / L.
  • the water solubility can for example take place using the method described below: 0.5 g of the pigment is weighed out in a beaker. A stir fry is added. Then one liter of distilled water is added. This mixture is heated to 25 ° C. for one hour while stirring on a magnetic stirrer. If undissolved constituents of the pigment are still visible in the mixture after this period, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L. If the pigment-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high intensity of the pigment which may be present in finely dispersed form, the mixture is filtered.
  • the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L.
  • Suitable color pigments can be of inorganic and / or organic origin.
  • the agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one coloring compound from the group of inorganic and / or organic pigments.
  • Preferred color pigments are selected from synthetic or natural inorganic pigments.
  • Inorganic color pigments of natural origin can be made from chalk, ocher, umber, green earth, burnt Terra di Siena or graphite, for example.
  • black pigments such as. B. iron oxide black, colored pigments such. B. ultramarine or iron oxide red and fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments can be used.
  • Colored metal oxides, hydroxides and oxide hydrates, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, metal chromates and / or metal molybdates are particularly suitable.
  • Particularly preferred color pigments are black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29),
  • Chromium oxide hydrate (CI77289), iron blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, CI77510) and / or carmine (Cochineal).
  • Coloring compounds from the group of pigments which are likewise particularly preferred according to the invention are colored pearlescent pigments. These are usually based on mica and / or mica and can be coated with one or more metal oxides. Mica is one of the layered silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite and margarite. To produce the pearlescent pigments in conjunction with metal oxides, the mica, predominantly muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide.
  • synthetic mica coated with one or more metal oxide (s) can also be used as a pearlescent pigment.
  • Particularly preferred pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica (mica) and are coated with one or more of the aforementioned metal oxides. The color of the respective pigments can be varied by varying the layer thickness of the metal oxide (s).
  • pigments based on mica are synthetically produced mica platelets coated with metal oxide, in particular based on synthetic fluorophlogopite (INCI: Synthetic Fluorophlogopite).
  • the synthetic fluorophlogopite platelets are coated, for example, with tin oxide, iron oxide (s) and / or titanium dioxide.
  • the metal oxide layers can also have pigments such as iron (II l) hexacyanidoferrate (l l / l II) or carmine red.
  • Such mica pigments are available, for example, under the name SYNCRYSTAL from Eckart.
  • a method is characterized in that the first composition (A) contains at least one inorganic pigment (A2), which is preferably selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides , Metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or from colored pigments based on mica or mica, which are coated with at least one metal oxide and / or a metal oxychloride.
  • A2 inorganic pigment
  • the composition (A) is characterized in that it contains at least one coloring compound (A2) from the group of pigments, which is selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, Metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or of coloring compounds based on mica or mica coated with at least one metal oxide and / or a metal oxychloride.
  • A2 from the group of pigments, which is selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, Metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or of coloring compounds based on mica or mica coated with at least one metal oxide and / or a metal oxychloride.
  • a composition (A) is characterized in that it contains at least one coloring compound (A2) which is selected from pigments based on mica or mica which are mixed with one or more metal oxides from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (CI 77891) , black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (CI 77491, CI 77499), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, pigment blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), chromium oxide (CI 77288) and / or iron blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, CI 77510) are coated.
  • A2 which is selected from pigments based on mica or mica which are mixed with one or more metal oxides from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (CI 77891) , black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (
  • a composition (A) is characterized in that it contains at least one coloring compound from the group of inorganic pigments, which is selected from the group consisting of black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red Iron oxide (CI 77491) and mixtures thereof.
  • Yellow iron oxide (or iron oxide yellow) is the name for FeO (OH), in the Color Index under C.I. Pigment Yellow 42 listed.
  • Red iron oxide (or iron oxide red) is the name for Fe 2 03, listed in the Color Index under Cl Pigment Red 101. Depending on the particle size, red iron oxide pigments can be set to have a very yellowish cast (small particle size) to a very bluish cast (coarse particles).
  • Black iron oxide (or iron oxide black) is listed in the Color Index under Cl Pigment Black 11. Iron oxide black is ferromagnetic. The chemical formula is often given as Fe30 4 , in reality there is a mixed crystal of Fe 2 03 and FeO with an inverse spinel structure. Additional black pigments are obtained by doping with chromium, copper or manganese.
  • Brown black iron oxide usually does not designate a defined pigment, but a mixture of yellow, red and / or black iron oxide.
  • Iron oxide pigments usually have particle diameters in the range from 2,000 to 4,000 nm. For some application purposes, in particular for cosmetic purposes, it can be advantageous to use iron oxide pigments with significantly smaller particle diameters. For example, hair colorations with iron oxide pigments which have a particle diameter in the range from 100 to 1,000 nm, more preferably 150 nm 700 nm, have better durability and better gray coverage. Even more preferred is therefore a composition (A) which further comprises a coloring compound from the group of pigments and / or substantive dyes, wherein the coloring compound includes a pigment from the group of iron oxide pigments and wherein the iron oxide pigment has a particle diameter in the range of 100 to 1000 nm, more preferably 150 nm 700 nm.
  • color pigments are commercially available, for example, under the trade names Rona®, Colorona®, Xirona®, Dichrona® and Timiron® from Merck, Ariabel® and Unipure® from Sensient, Prestige® and SynCrystal from Eckart Cosmetic Colors and Sunshine® available from Sunstar.
  • Particularly preferred pigments with the trade name Colorona® are, for example:
  • particularly preferred pigments with the trade name Unipure® are, for example:
  • composition (A) can also contain one or more coloring compounds from the group of organic pigments
  • the organic pigments according to the invention are correspondingly insoluble, organic dyes or color lakes, for example from the group of nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, anthraquinone, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene -, Diketopyrrolopyorrole, indigo, thioindido, dioxazine, and / or triarylmethane compounds can be selected.
  • Particularly suitable organic pigments are, for example, carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680 , CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725 , CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800
  • a method is characterized in that the first composition (A) contains at least one organic pigment (A2), which is preferably selected from the group of carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700
  • organic pigment A2
  • the organic pigment can also be a colored lacquer.
  • the term “colored lacquer” is understood to mean particles which comprise a layer of absorbed dyes, the unit of particles and dye being insoluble under the above-mentioned conditions.
  • the particles can be, for example, inorganic substrates, which can be aluminum, silica, calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate or also aluminum.
  • the alizarin color varnish can be used as the color varnish.
  • the use of the aforementioned pigments in the agents according to the invention is particularly preferred.
  • the pigments used have a certain particle size. This particle size leads, on the one hand, to a uniform distribution of the pigments in the polymer film formed and, on the other hand, prevents the hair or skin feeling rough after the cosmetic agent has been applied.
  • the at least one pigment has an average particle size D50 of 1.0 to 50 ⁇ m, preferably 5.0 to 45 ⁇ m, more preferably 10 to 40 ⁇ m, in particular 14 to 30 ⁇ m.
  • the mean particle size D50 can be determined using dynamic light scattering (DLS), for example.
  • Pigments with a specific shape can also have been used to color the keratin material.
  • a pigment based on a lamellar and / or a lenticular substrate platelet can be used.
  • VMP vacuum metallized pigment
  • a method is characterized in that the first composition (A) contains at least one pigment (A2) selected from the group consisting of the pigments based on a lamellar substrate platelet, the pigments based on a lenticular substrate platelet, and the Pigments based on a substrate platelet, which comprises a vacuum metallized pigment ("VMP").
  • VMP vacuum metallized pigment
  • the substrate platelets of this type have an average thickness of at most 50 nm, preferably less than 30 nm, particularly preferably at most 25 nm, for example at most 20 nm.
  • the average thickness of the substrate platelets is at least 1 nm, preferably at least 2.5 nm, particularly preferably at least 5 nm, for example at least 10 nm.
  • Preferred ranges for the thickness of the substrate platelets are 2.5 to 50 nm, 5 to 50 nm, 10 to 50 nm; 2.5 to 30 nm, 5 to 30 nm, 10 to 30 nm; 2.5 to 25 nm, 5 to 25 nm, 10 to 25 nm, 2.5 to 20 nm, 5 to 20 nm and 10 to 20 nm.
  • Each substrate plate preferably has a thickness that is as uniform as possible.
  • the pigment Due to the small thickness of the substrate platelets, the pigment has a particularly high hiding power.
  • the substrate platelets have a monolithic structure.
  • monolithic means consisting of a single closed unit without breaks, layers or inclusions, although changes in structure can occur within the substrate platelets.
  • the substrate platelets are preferably constructed homogeneously, ie that within the Platelets no concentration gradient occurs. In particular, the substrate platelets are not constructed in layers and have no particles or particles distributed therein.
  • the size of the substrate platelet can be matched to the particular application, in particular the desired effect on the keratinic material.
  • the substrate platelets have a mean largest diameter of about 2 to 200 ⁇ m, in particular about 5 to 100 ⁇ m.
  • the aspect ratio expressed by the ratio of the mean size to the average thickness, is at least 80, preferably at least 200, more preferably at least 500, particularly preferably more than 750.
  • the mean size of the uncoated substrate platelets is understood to be the d50 value of the uncoated substrate platelets. Unless otherwise stated, the d50 value was determined using a Sympatec Helos device with Quixel wet dispersion. To prepare the sample, the sample to be examined was predispersed in isopropanol for a period of 3 minutes.
  • the substrate platelets can be constructed from any material which can be brought into platelet form.
  • the substrate platelets can be of natural origin, but also synthetically produced.
  • Materials from which the substrate platelets can be constructed are, for example, metals and metal alloys, metal oxides, preferably aluminum oxide, inorganic compounds and minerals such as mica and (semi) precious stones, as well as plastics.
  • the substrate platelets are preferably constructed from metal (alloys).
  • metal suitable for metallic luster pigments can be considered as the metal.
  • metals include iron and steel, as well as all air and water-resistant (semi) metals such as platinum, zinc, chromium, molybdenum and silicon, and their alloys such as aluminum bronze and brass.
  • Preferred metals are aluminum, copper, silver and gold.
  • Preferred substrate platelets are aluminum platelets and brass platelets, with substrate platelets made of aluminum being particularly preferred.
  • Lamellar substrate platelets are characterized by an irregularly structured edge and are also referred to as "cornflakes" because of their appearance.
  • pigments based on lamellar substrate platelets Due to their irregular structure, pigments based on lamellar substrate platelets generate a high proportion of scattered light. In addition, the pigments based on lamellar substrate platelets do not cover the existing color of a keratinic material completely and effects analogous to natural graying can be achieved, for example.
  • Vacuum metallized pigments can be obtained, for example, by releasing metals, metal alloys or metal oxides from appropriately coated foils. They are distinguished by a particularly small thickness of the substrate platelets in the range from 5 to 50 nm and by a particularly smooth surface with increased reflectivity. Substrate platelets which comprise a pigment metallized in a vacuum are also referred to in the context of this application as VMP substrate platelets. VMP substrate platelets made of aluminum can be obtained, for example, by releasing aluminum from metallized foils.
  • the substrate platelets made of metal or metal alloy can be passivated, for example by anodizing (oxide layer) or chromating.
  • Uncoated lamellar, lenticular and / or VPM substrate platelets in particular those made of metal or metal alloy, reflect the incident light to a high degree and produce a light-dark flop, but no color impression.
  • a color impression can be generated, for example, on the basis of optical interference effects.
  • Such pigments can be based on at least once coated substrate platelets. These show interference effects due to the superposition of differently refracted and reflected light rays.
  • preferred pigments are pigments based on a coated substrate platelet.
  • the substrate platelet preferably has at least one coating B made of a high-index metal oxide with a coating thickness of at least 50 nm.
  • a further coating A is preferably located between the coating B and the surface of the substrate platelet.
  • another coating C which is different from the layer B below, is located on the layer B.
  • Suitable materials for the coatings A, B and C are all substances that can be applied permanently and in film form to the substrate platelets and, in the case of the layers A and B, have the required optical properties.
  • a coating is one Part of the surface of the substrate platelets is sufficient to obtain a pigment with a glossy effect.
  • only the upper and / or lower side of the substrate platelets can be coated, with the side surface (s) being cut out.
  • the entire surface of the optionally passivated substrate platelets, including the side surfaces, is preferably covered by coating B.
  • the substrate platelets are therefore completely encased by coating B. This improves the optical properties of the pigment and increases the mechanical and chemical resistance of the pigments.
  • the foregoing also applies to layer A and preferably also to layer C, if any.
  • the coated substrate platelets preferably each have only one coating A, B and, if present, C.
  • the coating B is made up of at least one high-index metal oxide. Highly refractive materials have a refractive index of at least 1.9, preferably at least 2.0 and particularly preferably at least 2.4.
  • the coating B preferably comprises at least 95% by weight, particularly preferably at least 99% by weight, of high-index metal oxide (s).
  • the coating B has a thickness of at least 50 nm.
  • the thickness of coating B is preferably not more than 400 nm, particularly preferably at most 300 nm.
  • High refractive index metal oxides suitable for coating B are preferably selectively light-absorbing (ie colored) metal oxides such as iron (III) oxide (a- and y-Fe 2 O 3, red), cobalt (II) oxide (blue), chromium (III) oxide (g rü n). Titanium (111) oxide (blue, is usually a mixture with titanium oxynitrides and titanium nitrides) and vanadium (V) oxide (orange) and their mixtures. Colorless, high-index oxides such as titanium dioxide and / or zirconium oxide are also suitable.
  • ie colored metal oxides such as iron (III) oxide (a- and y-Fe 2 O 3, red), cobalt (II) oxide (blue), chromium (III) oxide (g rü n). Titanium (111) oxide (blue, is usually a mixture with titanium oxynitrides and titanium nitrides) and vanadium (V) oxide (orange) and their mixtures.
  • Coating B can contain a selectively absorbing dye, preferably 0.001 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01 to 1% by weight, based in each case on the total amount of coating B.
  • the coating A preferably has at least one low refractive index metal oxide and / or metal oxide hydrate.
  • Coating A preferably comprises at least 95% by weight, particularly preferably at least 99% by weight, of low-refractive-index metal oxide (hydrate).
  • Low refractive index materials have a refractive index of at most 1.8, preferably at most 1.6.
  • the low refractive index metal oxides which are suitable for coating A include, for example, silicon (di) oxide, silicon oxide hydrate, aluminum oxide, aluminum oxide hydrate, boron oxide, germanium oxide, manganese oxide, magnesium oxide and mixtures thereof, silicon dioxide being preferred.
  • the coating A preferably has a thickness of 1 to 100 nm, particularly preferably 5 to 50 nm, particularly preferably 5 to 20 nm.
  • the distance between the surface of the substrate platelets and the inner surface of coating B is preferably at most 100 nm, particularly preferably at most 50 nm, particularly preferably at most 20 nm Coating B is in the range given above, it can be ensured that the pigments have a high hiding power.
  • the pigment based on a substrate flake has only one layer A, it is preferred for the pigment to have a substrate flake made of aluminum and a layer A made of silicon dioxide. If the pigment on the basis of a substrate flake has a layer A and a layer B, it is preferred for the pigment to have a substrate flake made of aluminum, a layer A made of silicon dioxide and a layer B made of iron oxide.
  • layer B can comprise a metal particle carrier layer with metal particles applied to the surface of the metal particle carrier layer.
  • the metal particles directly cover part of the metal particle carrier layer.
  • the effect pigment has areas in which there are no metal particles, i.e. areas which are not covered with the metal particles.
  • the metal particle carrier layer comprises a metal layer and / or a metal oxide layer.
  • the metal particle carrier layer comprises a metal layer and a metal oxide layer, the arrangement of these layers is not limited.
  • the metal particle carrier layer comprises at least one metal layer. It is further preferred that the metal layer has an element selected from tin (Sn), palladium (Pd), platinum (Pt) and gold (Au).
  • the metal layer can be formed, for example, by adding alkali to a metal salt solution containing the metal. If the metal particle carrier layer contains a metal oxide layer, this preferably does not comprise silicon dioxide.
  • the metal oxide layer preferably contains an oxide of at least one element selected from the group consisting of Mg (magnesium), Sn (tin), Zn (zinc),
  • the metal particle carrier layer iii) particularly preferably contains a metal oxide of Sn, Zn, Ti and Ce in the form of a metal oxide layer.
  • the metal particle carrier layer can be produced in the form of a metal oxide layer, for example, by hydrolysis of an alkoxide of a metal which forms the metal of the metal oxide in a sol-gel process.
  • the thickness of the metal layer is preferably not more than 30 nm.
  • the metal particles can comprise at least one element which is selected from the group consisting of aluminum (Al), titanium (Ti), chromium (Cr), iron (Fe), cobalt (Co), nickel (Ni), copper (Cu) , Zinc (Zn), ruthenium (Ru), rhodium (Rh), palladium (Pd), silver (Ag), tin (Sn),
  • the metal particles have at least one element selected from copper (Cu), nickel (Ni) and silver (Ag).
  • the average particle diameter of the metal particles is preferably not more than 50 nm, more preferably not more than 30 nm.
  • the distance between the metal particles is preferably not more than 10 nm.
  • Suitable methods for forming the metal particles are vacuum evaporation, sputtering, chemical vapor deposition (CVD), electroless plating, or the like. Of these methods, electroless plating is particularly preferred.
  • the pigments have a further coating C made of a metal oxide (hydrate), which is different from the coating B below.
  • Suitable metal oxides are, for example, silicon (di) oxide, silicon oxide hydrate, aluminum oxide, aluminum oxide hydrate, zinc oxide, tin oxide, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, iron (III) oxide and chromium (III) oxide. Silica is preferred.
  • the coating C preferably has a thickness of 10 to 500 nm, particularly preferably 50 to 300 nm. By providing the coating C, for example based on T1O2, a better interference can be achieved, with a high hiding power being ensured.
  • Layers A and C serve in particular as protection against corrosion and also for chemical and physical stabilization.
  • Layers A and C particularly preferably contain silicon dioxide or aluminum oxide, which are applied by the sol-gel process.
  • This method comprises dispersing the uncoated substrate platelets or the substrate platelets already coated with layer A and / or layer B in a solution of a metal alkoxide such as tetraethyl orthosilicate or aluminum triisopropoxide (usually in a solution of organic solvent or a mixture of organic solvent and water with at least 50 wt .-% organic solvent such as a C1 to C4 alcohol), and adding a weak base or acid to hydrolyze the metal alkoxide, whereby a film of the metal oxide is formed on the surface of the (coated) substrate platelets.
  • a metal alkoxide such as tetraethyl orthosilicate or aluminum triisopropoxide
  • Layer B can be produced, for example, by hydrolytic decomposition of one or more organic metal compounds and / or by precipitation of one or more dissolved metal salts and, if necessary, subsequent aftertreatment (for example conversion of a hydroxide-containing layer that has formed into the oxide layers by annealing).
  • each of the coatings A, B and / or C can be composed of a mixture of two or more metal oxides (hydrate), each of the coatings is preferably composed of a metal oxide (hydrate).
  • the pigments based on coated lamellar or lenticular substrate platelets or the pigments based on coated VMP substrate platelets preferably have a thickness of 70 to 500 nm, particularly preferably 100 to 400 nm, particularly preferably 150 to 320 nm, for example 180 to 290 nm, on. Due to the small thickness of the substrate platelets, the pigment has a particularly high hiding power.
  • the small thickness of the coated substrate platelets is achieved in particular in that the thickness of the uncoated substrate platelets is small, but also in that the thicknesses of the coatings A and, if present, C are set to the smallest possible value.
  • the thickness of coating B determines the color impression of the pigment.
  • Pigments based on a substrate platelet comprising artificial mica are also suitable pigments. Particularly preferred are pigments comprising a) a substrate platelet comprising artificial mica, and ⁇ ) a coating comprising at least one first metal oxide (hydrate) layer comprising T1O2, Sn0 2 and / or iron oxide (s).
  • the adhesion and abrasion resistance of pigments based on coated substrate platelets in the keratinic material can be significantly increased by additionally modifying the outermost layer, depending on the structure, layer A, B or C, with organic compounds such as silanes, phosphoric acid esters, titanates, borates or carboxylic acids becomes.
  • organic compounds such as silanes, phosphoric acid esters, titanates, borates or carboxylic acids becomes.
  • organic compounds bound to the surface of the outermost layer A, B or C preferably containing metal oxide.
  • the outermost layer denotes the layer which is spatially furthest away from the substrate plate.
  • the organic compounds are preferably functional silane compounds which can bond to the layer A, B or C containing metal oxide. These can be either mono- or bifunctional compounds.
  • bifunctional organic compounds are methacryloxypropenyltrimethoxysilane, 3-methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, 3- acryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, 2-acryloxyethyltrimethoxysilane, 3-methacryloxy propyltriethoxysilane, 3-acryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, 2-Methacryloxyethyl- triethoxysilane, 2-acryloxyethyltriethoxysilane, 3-methacryloxypropyl tris (methoxyethoxy) silane, 3- Methacryloxypropyltris (butoxyethoxy) silane, 3-methacryloxypropyltris (propoxy) silane, 3- methacryloxypropyltris (butoxy) silane, 3-acryloxypropyltris (methoxyethoxy) silane, 3- acryloxypropyltris (butoxyethoxy) silane, 3-acryloxypropyltris (meth
  • a modification with a monofunctional silane in particular an alkylsilane or arylsilane, can take place.
  • This has only one functional group which can covalently bind pigments based on coated substrate platelets (ie to the outermost metal oxide-containing layer) or, if not completely covered, to the metal surface.
  • the hydrocarbon residue of the silane faces away from the pigment.
  • a different degree of hydrophobicity of the pigment is achieved. Examples of such silanes are hexadecyltrimethoxysilane, propyltrimethoxysilane, etc.
  • Pigments based on silicon dioxide-coated aluminum substrate platelets are surface-modified with a monofunctional silane.
  • Octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, hecadecyltrimethoxysilane and hecadecyltriethoxysilane are particularly preferred.
  • the changed surface properties / hydrophobization can improve adhesion, abrasion resistance and alignment in the application.
  • Suitable pigments based on a substrate platelet include, for example, the pigments of the VISIONAIRE series from Eckart.
  • Pigments based on a lenticular substrate platelet are available, for example, under the name Alegrace® Spotify from Schlenk Metallic Pigments GmbH.
  • Pigments based on a substrate platelet which comprises a vacuum metallized pigment
  • a method is characterized in that the composition (A) - based on the total weight of the composition (A) - has one or more pigments in a total amount of 0.001 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 5 Wt .-% contains.
  • compositions (A) can also contain one or more substantive dyes as coloring compounds.
  • Substantive dyes are dyes that are absorbed directly onto the hair and do not require an oxidative process to develop the color.
  • Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines,
  • Nitroaminophenols azo dyes, anthraquinones, triary imethane dyes or indophenols.
  • the substantive dyes for the purposes of the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25 ° C. of more than 0.5 g / L and are therefore not to be regarded as pigments.
  • the substantive dyes for the purposes of the present invention preferably have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25 ° C. of more than 1.0 g / l.
  • the substantive dyes particularly preferably have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25 ° C. of more than 1.5 g / l.
  • Substantive dyes can be divided into anionic, cationic and nonionic substantive dyes.
  • composition (A) is characterized in that it contains at least one anionic, cationic and / or nonionic substantive dye as the coloring compound.
  • composition (A) contains at least one coloring compound from the group of anionic, nonionic and / or cationic substantive dyes.
  • Suitable cationic substantive dyes are, for example, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 16, Basic Blue 347 (Cationic Blue 347 / Dystar), HC Blue No. 16, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31, Basic Red 51 Basic Red 76
  • Nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes can be used as nonionic substantive dyes.
  • Suitable nonionic substantive dyes are those under the international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10, HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 known compounds, as well as 1, 4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1, 4- bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) aminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4 - [(2 -Hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-a
  • Anionic substantive dyes are also referred to as acid dyes.
  • Acid dyes are understood to mean substantive dyes which have at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH) and / or one sulfonic acid group (-SO3H).
  • -COOH carboxylic acid group
  • -SO3H sulfonic acid group
  • the protonated forms (-COOH, -SO3H) of the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups are in equilibrium with their deprotonated forms (-COO-, -S03 _). The proportion of protonated forms increases with decreasing pH.
  • the carboxylic acid groups or sulfonic acid groups are in deprotonated form and are neutralized with corresponding stoichiometric equivalents of cations to maintain electrical neutrality.
  • Acid dyes according to the invention can also be used in the form of their sodium salts and / or their potassium salts.
  • the acid dyes for the purposes of the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25 ° C. of more than 0.5 g / L and are therefore not to be regarded as pigments.
  • the acid dyes preferably have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25 ° C. of more than 1.0 g / l.
  • alkaline earth salts such as calcium salts and magnesium salts
  • aluminum salts of acid dyes often have poorer solubility than the corresponding alkali salts. If the solubility of these salts is below 0.5 g / L (25 ° C, 760 mmHg), they do not fall under the definition of a substantive dye.
  • acid dyes are their ability to form anionic charges, the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups responsible for this usually being linked to different chromophoric systems.
  • Suitable chromophoric systems are found, for example, in the structures of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, triarylmethane dyes, xanthene dyes, rhodamine dyes, oxazine dyes and / or indophenol dyes.
  • One or more compounds from the following group can be selected as particularly suitable acid dyes: Acid Yellow 1 (D&C Yellow 7, Citronin A, Ext. D&C Yellow No.
  • Acid Yellow 36 (CI 13065), Acid Yellow 121 ( CI 18690), Acid Orange 6 (CI 14270), Acid Orange 7 (2-Naphthol orange, Orange II, CI 15510, D&C Orange 4, COLIPA n ° C015), Acid Orange 10 (Cl 16230; Orange G sodium salt), Acid Orange 11 (CI 45370), Acid Orange 15 (CI 50120), Acid Orange 20 (CI 14600), Acid Orange 24 (BROWN 1; CI
  • Food Blue 2 Acid Blue 2 (CI 62045), Acid Blue 74 (E 132, CI 73015), Acid Blue 80 (CI 61585), Acid Green 3 (CI 42085, Foodgreenl), Acid Green 5 (CI 42095), Acid Green 9 (C.1.42100), Acid Green 22 (C.1.42170), Acid Green 25 (CI 61570, Japan Green 201, D&C Green No.
  • Acid Green 50 (Brillantklare indispensable BS, Cl 44090, Acid Brilliant Green BS , E 142), Acid Black 1 (Black n ° 401, Naphthalene Black 10B, Amido Black 10B, CI 20 470, COLIPA n ° B15), Acid Black 52 (CI 15711), Food Yellow 8 (CI 14270), Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 11, D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33, D&C Violet 2 and / or D&C Brown 1.
  • the water solubility of the anionic substantive dyes can be determined, for example, in the following way. 0.1 g of the anionic substantive dye are placed in a beaker. A stir bar is added. Then 100 ml of water are added. This mixture is heated to 25 ° C. on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. It is stirred for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then assessed visually. If there are still undissolved residues, the amount of water is increased - for example in steps of 10 ml. Water is added until the amount of dye used has completely dissolved. If the dye-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high intensity of the dye, the mixture is filtered.
  • the solubility test is repeated with a higher amount of water. If 0.1 g of the anionic substantive dye dissolves in 100 ml of water at 25 ° C., the solubility of the dye is 1.0 g / l.
  • Acid Yellow 1 is called 8-hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt and has a solubility in water of at least 40 g / L (25 ° C).
  • Acid Yellow 3 is a mixture of the sodium salts of mono- and disulfonic acids of 2- (2-quinolyl) -1H-indene-1,3 (2H) -dione and has a water solubility of 20 g / L (25 ° C).
  • Acid Yellow 9 is the disodium salt of 8-hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid, its water solubility is above 40 g / L (25 ° C).
  • Acid Yellow 23 is the trisodium salt of 4,5-dihydro-5-oxo-1- (4-sulfophenyl) -4 - ((4-sulfophenyl) azo) -1H-pyrazole-3-carboxylic acid and works well in water at 25 ° C soluble.
  • Acid Orange 7 is the sodium salt of 4 - [(2-Hydroxy-1-naphthyl) azo] benzene sulfonate. Its water solubility is more than 7 g / L (25 ° C).
  • Acid Red 18 is the trisodium salt of 7-hydroxy-8 - [(E) - (4-sulfonato-1-naphthyl) -diazenyl)] - 1,3-naphthalenedisulfonate and has a very high solubility in water of more than 20 wt. %.
  • Acid Red 33 is the disodium salt of 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3- (phenylazo) -naphthalene-2,7-disulphonate, its water solubility is 2.5 g / L (25 ° C).
  • Acid Red 92 is the disodium salt of 3,4,5,6-tetrachloro-2- (1,4,5,8-tetrabromo-6-hydroxy-3-oxoxanthen-9-yl) benzoic acid, its water solubility is specified with more than 10 g / L (25 ° C).
  • Acid Blue 9 is the disodium salt of 2 - ( ⁇ 4- [N-ethyl (3-sulfonatobenzyl] amino] phenyl ⁇ ⁇ 4 - [(N-ethyl (3-sulfonatobenzyl) imino] -2,5-cyclohexadiene-1- ylidene ⁇ methyl) benzene sulfonate and has a water solubility of more than 20% by weight (25 ° C).
  • thermochromic dyes can also be used.
  • Thermochromism includes the property of a material to change its color reversibly or irreversibly depending on the temperature. This can be done both by changing the intensity and / or the wavelength maximum.
  • Photochromism includes the property of a material to change its color reversibly or irreversibly depending on the irradiation with light, especially UV light. This can be done both by changing the intensity and / or the wavelength maximum.
  • composition (A) based on the total weight of the composition (A) - one or more substantive dyes in a total amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 0.05 to 5% by weight.
  • Further cosmetic ingredients in composition (A) are characterized in that the composition (A) - based on the total weight of the composition (A) - one or more substantive dyes in a total amount of 0.001 to 20 wt .-%, in particular from 0.05 to 5% by weight.
  • composition (A) can also contain one or more further cosmetic ingredients.
  • the cosmetic ingredients which can optionally be used in the composition (A) can be all suitable constituents in order to impart further positive properties to the composition.
  • a solvent, a thickening or film-forming polymer, a surface-active compound from the group of nonionic, cationic, anionic or zwitterionic / amphoteric surfactants, the coloring compounds from the group of pigments, the substantive dyes, the oxidation dye precursors can be used in the composition (A) , the fatty components from the group of C8-C30 fatty alcohols, hydrocarbon compounds, fatty acid esters, the acids and bases belonging to the group of pH regulators, perfumes, preservatives, plant extracts and protein hydrolysates.
  • the at least one coloring compound (A2) from the group of the pigments and the substantive dyes is preferably used in the form of a pigment suspension comprising the at least one coloring compound (A2) and a liquid carrier medium.
  • the carrier medium is preferably non-aqueous.
  • the carrier medium can for example comprise a silicone oil.
  • the composition (A) accordingly contains the liquid carrier medium.
  • the method is characterized by the application of a first composition (A) to the keratinic material.
  • composition (A) is a ready-to-use composition which, in its present embodiment, can be applied to the keratin materials, in particular to the hair.
  • the composition (A) can either be provided in its present form in a container.
  • the Ci-C6-Alkoxysilanen contains the Composition (A), however, very reactive compounds.
  • the ready-to-use and reactive composition (A) only shortly before use by mixing two or more storage-stable compositions.
  • the ready-to-use composition (A) can be prepared by mixing a low-water silane blend (A '), which contains the organic Ci-C6-alkoxysilane (s) (A1) in concentrated form, and a water-rich carrier formulation (A ") , which can be a gel, a lotion or a surfactant system, for example.
  • the ready-to-use composition (A) accordingly preferably has a higher water content, which - based on the total weight of the composition (A) - is in the range from 50.0 to 90.0% by weight, preferably from 55.0 to 90.0% by weight .-%, more preferably 60.0 to 90.0% by weight and particularly preferably 70.0 to 90.0% by weight.
  • a method is characterized in that the composition (A) - based on the total weight of the composition (A) - 50.0 to 90.0% by weight, preferably from 55.0 to 90.0% by weight. -%, more preferably 60.0 to 90.0% by weight and particularly preferably 70.0 to 90.0% by weight of water. pH of the compositions (A)
  • the pH values of the composition (A) can have an influence on the color intensities obtained during the dyeing. It was found here that alkaline pH values in particular have an advantageous effect on the dyeing performance that can be achieved in the process.
  • compositions (A) have a pH of from 7.0 to 12.0, preferably from 7.5 to 11.5, more preferably from 8.0 to 11.0 and very particularly preferably from 8.0 to 10.5.
  • the pH value can be measured using the usual methods known from the prior art, such as, for example, pH value measurement using glass electrodes using combination electrodes or using pH indicator paper.
  • composition (A) has a pH of from 7.0 to 12.0, preferably from 7.5 to 11.5, more preferably from 8.0 to 11 , 0 and very particularly preferably from 8.0 to 10.5.
  • Shellac (BP in the composition (Bl) contains shellac as an ingredient essential to the invention.
  • Shellac is a resinous substance that is produced by the female lacquer scale insect "Kerria lacca” after sucking on certain plants to protect the clutch against external weather conditions.
  • Shellac can be melted at temperatures around 80 ° C. It is available in large quantities in the South Asian region in particular, as the lacquer scale insect secretion, which covers the branches of the herbaceous plants in thick layers, is removed, crushed and freed from plant residues.
  • the so-called stick lacquer obtained in this way is washed in alkaline solution and dried and the actual shellac is isolated from the so-called grain lacquer obtained therefrom as a wax-containing or wax-free resin in various ways (for example by melt filtration).
  • wax-free shellac can also be obtained by solvent extraction. The latter accumulates in the form of thin leaves when drying.
  • a purified, wax-free shellac resin which has a molecular weight of about 1000 is preferably used in the process.
  • the wax-free shellac resin comprises a number of hydroxymonodicarboxylic acids in the form of lactones, lactides and intramolecular esters.
  • the main components are aleuritic acid, shellolic acid and jalaric acid (C15H20O5) with molecular weights of 304, 296 and 280 respectively.
  • Shellac is an oligomer of hydroxycarboxylic acids rather than a polymer. Using a solvent extraction process, for example with an alcohol, impurities can be removed, and after decolorization with activated charcoal and evaporation of the alcohol, shellac can be converted into a yellowish to pale yellowish solid.
  • Shellac can be used in the process in the form of aqueous dispersions.
  • Shellac is preferably used in dissolved form.
  • Suitable solvents include, in particular, alcohols, ketones and organic acids.
  • Shellac in the form of an alcoholic solution is particularly preferably used.
  • Suitable alcohols include methanol, ethanol, n-propanol, i-propanol, n-butanol, tert-butanol, ethanediol, 1-methoxy2-propanol, 1,2-propanediol and / or 1,3-propanediol, with ethanol and 1 , 2-propanediol are preferred.
  • the method is characterized in that the composition (B) further comprises ethanol and / or 1,2-propanediol.
  • composition (B) - based on the total weight of the composition (B) - shellac (B1) in a total amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt % and more preferably from 0.25 to 2.5% by weight.
  • the shellac when applied to keratin material which has previously been treated with the composition (A) leads to a stronger crosslinking of the alkoxysilanes and / or their hydrolysis or condensation products leads to the film formed by the keratinic material, thereby increasing the wash resistance of the dyeings obtained.
  • Shellac is preferably used in the form of an aqueous-alcoholic solution.
  • composition (B) preferably also contains water.
  • composition (B) - based on the total weight of the composition (B) - shellac (B1) in a total amount of 1.5 to 2.5% by weight in an aqueous-alcoholic solution , comprising ethanol and water or 1,2-propanediol and water. pH of the compositions (Bl
  • the pH values of the composition (B) can have an influence on the wash resistance obtained during dyeing. It was found here that alkaline pH values in particular have an advantageous effect on the authenticity that can be achieved in the process.
  • compositions (B) have a pH of 6.5 to 12.7, preferably from 7 to 12, more preferably from 7.5 to 11.5 and very particularly preferably from 8 to 11 .
  • the pH value can be measured using the usual methods known from the prior art, such as, for example, pH value measurement using glass electrodes using combination electrodes or using pH indicator paper.
  • composition (B) has a pH of 6.5 to 12.7, preferably from 7 to 12, more preferably from 7.5 to 11.5 and very particularly preferably from 8 to 11.
  • acidifying agents and / or alkalizing agents can be used to set the aforementioned pH values.
  • the composition (B) can additionally contain at least one film-forming polymer which is not shellac.
  • Polymers are understood to mean macromolecules with a molecular weight of at least 1000 g / mol, preferably of at least 2500 g / mol, particularly preferably of at least 5000 g / mol, which consist of identical, repeating organic units.
  • the polymers of the present invention can be synthetically produced polymers which are produced by polymerizing one type of monomer or by polymerizing different types of monomers which are structurally different from one another. If the polymer is produced by polymerizing one type of monomer, it is called homo-polymer. If structurally different types of monomers are used in the polymerization, the resulting polymer is referred to as a copolymer.
  • the maximum molecular weight of the polymer depends on the degree of polymerisation (number of polymerised monomers) and the batch size and is also determined by the polymerisation method. For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferred if the maximum molecular weight of the film-forming, hydrophobic polymer is not more than 10 7 g / mol, preferably not more than 10 6 g / mol and particularly preferably not more than 10 5 g / mol.
  • a film-forming polymer is understood to mean a polymer which is capable of forming a film on a substrate, for example on a keratinic material or a keratinous fiber.
  • the formation of a film can be detected, for example, by viewing the keratin material treated with the polymer under a microscope.
  • a method is characterized in that the second composition (B) contains at least one film-forming polymer.
  • the second composition (B) contains at least one film-forming polymer, which is preferably selected from the group of homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid, of methacrylic acid, of acrylic acid esters, of methacrylic acid -Esters, of acrylic acid amides, of methacrylic acid amides, of vinyl pyrrolidone, of vinyl alcohol, of vinyl acetate, of ethylene, of propylene, of styrene, of polyurethanes, of polyesters and / or of polyamides.
  • the second composition (B) contains at least one film-forming polymer, which is preferably selected from the group of homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid, of methacrylic acid, of acrylic acid esters, of methacrylic acid -Esters, of acrylic acid amides, of methacrylic acid amides, of vinyl pyrrolidone, of vinyl alcohol, of vinyl acetate, of ethylene, of propylene, of styrene, of polyure
  • the film-forming polymers can be hydrophilic or hydrophobic.
  • composition (B) it may be preferred to use at least one hydrophobic, film-forming polymer in composition (B).
  • a hydrophobic polymer is understood to mean a polymer that has a solubility in water at 25 ° C. (760 mmHg) of less than 1% by weight.
  • the water solubility of the film-forming, hydrophobic polymer can be determined, for example, in the following way. 1.0 g of the polymer are placed in a beaker. Make up to 100 g with water. A stir bar is added and the mixture is warmed to 25 ° C on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. It is stirred for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then assessed visually. If the polymer-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high turbidity of the mixture, the mixture is filtered. If a proportion of undissolved polymer remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the polymer is less than 1% by weight.
  • the polymers of the acrylic acid type, the polyurethanes, the polyesters, the polyamides, the polyureas, the cellulose polymers, the nitro-cellulose polymers, the silicone polymers, the polymers of the acrylamide type and the polyisoprenes can be mentioned here in particular .
  • Particularly suitable film-forming, hydrophobic polymers are, for example, polymers from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, copolymers of vinyl alcohol, copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers or copolymers of propylene, homopolymers or copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and / or the polyamides.
  • a composition (B) is characterized in that it contains at least one film-forming, hydrophobic polymer selected from the group consisting of copolymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, copolymers of vinyl alcohol, copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers or copolymers Propylene, homopolymers or copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and / or polyamides.
  • a film-forming, hydrophobic polymer selected from the group consisting of copolymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers or cop
  • the film-forming hydrophobic polymers in particular, those from the group of synthetic, have proven to be particularly suitable for achieving the object of the invention Polymers, the polymers obtainable by radical polymerization or the natural polymers.
  • suitable film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homopolymers or copolymers of olefins, such as cycloolefins, butadiene, isoprene or styrene, vinyl ethers, vinyl amides, the esters or amides of (meth) acrylic acid with at least one Ci-C2o-alkyl group, an aryl group or a C2-C10 hydroxyalkyl group.
  • Further film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homo- or copolymers of isooctyl (meth) acrylate, isononyl (meth) acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl (meth) acrylate, lauryl (meth) acrylate), isopentyl (meth) acrylate, n- Butyl (meth) acrylate, isobutyl (meth) acrylate, ethyl (meth) acrylate, methyl (meth) acrylate, tert-butyl (meth) acrylate, stearyl (meth) acrylate, hydroxyethyl (meth) acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl (meth ) acrylate, 3-hydroxypropyl (meth) acrylate and / or mixtures thereof.
  • Further film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homo- or copolymers of (meth) acrylamide; N-alkyl- (meth) acrylamides, in particular those with C2-C18 alkyl groups, such as, for example, N-ethyl acrylamide, N-tert-butyl acrylamide, N-octyl acrylamide; N-di (C1-C4) alkyl (meth) acrylamide.
  • anionic copolymers are, for example, copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their Ci-C6-alkyl esters, as sold under the INCI declaration Acrylates Copolymers.
  • a suitable commercial product is, for example Aculyn ® 33 from Rohm & Haas.
  • copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their Ci-C6-alkyl esters and the esters of an ethylenically unsaturated acid and an alkoxylated fatty alcohol are also preferred.
  • Suitable ethylenically unsaturated acids are in particular acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and itaconic acid; suitable alkoxylated fatty alcohols are, in particular, steareth-20 or ceteth-20.
  • Particularly preferred polymers on the market are, for example, Aculyn ® 22 (Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), Aculyn ® 28 (Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), Structure 2001 ® (Acryla-tes / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer) , Structure 3001 ® (Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure Plus ® (Acrylates / Aminoacrylates C10-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Carbopol® 1342, 1382, Ultrez 20, Ultrez 21 (Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), Synthalen W2000® (Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer) or the Soltex OPT (Acrylates / C 12-22 Alkyl methacrylate Copolymer) sold by Rohme and Ha
  • Suitable polymers based on vinyl monomers are the homo- and copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl- (C1- C6-) alkyl pyrrole, vinyl oxazole, vinyl thiazole, of vinyl pyrimidine, of vinyl imidazole.
  • copolymers octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer as sold commercially by NATIONAL STARCH under the trade names AMPHOMER® or LOVOCRYL® 47, or the copolymers of acrylates / octylacrylamides under the trade name DERMACRYL®, are also very particularly suitable LT and DERMACRYL® 79 are sold by NATIONAL STARCH.
  • Suitable polymers based on olefins are the homo- and copolymers of ethylene, propylene, butene, isoprene and butadiene.
  • block copolymers which comprise at least one block of styrene or the derivatives of styrene can be used as film-forming hydrophobic polymers.
  • These block copolymers can be copolymers which, in addition to a styrene block, contain one or more further blocks, such as, for example, styrene / ethylene, styrene / ethylene / butylene, styrene / butylene, styrene / isoprene, styrene / butadiene.
  • Corresponding polymers are sold commercially by BASF under the trade name “Luvitol HSB”.
  • composition (B) furthermore contained at least one film-forming polymer selected from the group of homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid, homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid -Esters, homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl alcohol, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl acetate, of Homopolymers and copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers and copolymers of propylene, homopolymers and copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and polyamides.
  • film-forming polymer selected from the group of homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid, homopolymers
  • a method is characterized in that the composition (B) contains at least one film-forming polymer selected from the group of homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid, homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid esters , the homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, the homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl alcohol, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers and copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers and copolymers of propylene and homopolymers Copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and polyamides.
  • the composition (B) contains at least one film-forming polymer selected from the group of homopolymers
  • composition (B) it can be preferred to use at least one hydrophilic, film-forming polymer in composition (B).
  • a hydrophilic polymer is understood to mean a polymer that has a solubility in water at 25 ° C. (760 mmHg) of more than 1% by weight, preferably more than 2% by weight.
  • the water solubility of the film-forming hydrophilic polymer can be determined, for example, in the following way. 1.0 g of the polymer are placed in a beaker. Make up to 100 g with water. A stir bar is added and the mixture is warmed to 25 ° C on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. It is stirred for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then assessed visually. A completely dissolved polymer appears macroscopically homogeneous. If the polymer-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high turbidity of the mixture, the mixture is filtered. If no undissolved polymer remains on the filter paper, then the solubility of the polymer is more than 1% by weight.
  • Nonionic, anionic and cationic polymers can be used as film-forming, hydrophilic polymers.
  • Suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers can, for example, from the group of polyvinylpyrrolidone (co) polymers, polyvinyl alcohol (co) polymers, vinyl acetate (co) polymers, carboxyvinyl (co) polymers, acrylic acid (co) polymers, methacrylic acid (co) polymers, natural gums, polysaccharides and / or acrylamide (co) polymers.
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • / or a vinylpyrrolidone-containing copolymer as the film-forming hydrophilic polymer.
  • a composition (B) is characterized in that it contains at least one film-forming, hydrophilic polymer selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and the copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone. It is also preferred if the composition (B) contains polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) as the film-forming, hydrophilic polymer. Surprisingly, the washfastness of the dyeings that could be obtained with PVP-containing agents (b9) was also very good.
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • polyvinylpyrrolidones are available for example under the name Luviskol K from BASF SE, in particular Luviskol ® "90 or Luviskol ®” 85 from BASF SE.
  • the polymer PVP K30 which is sold by the Ashland company (ISP, POI Chemical), can also be used as another polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) that is explicitly very particularly suitable.
  • PVP K 30 is a polyvinylpyrrolidone which is very soluble in cold water and has the CAS number 9003-39-8.
  • the molecular weight of PVP K 30 is approx. 40,000 g / mol.
  • polyvinylpyrrolidones are the substances known under the trade names LUVITEC K 17, LUVITEC K 30, LUVITEC K 60, LUVITEC K 80, LUVITEC K 85, LUVITEC K 90 and LUVITEC K 115 and available from BASF.
  • film-forming hydrophilic polymers from the group of copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone has also led to particularly good and washable color results.
  • Vinylester vinylpyrrolidone copolymers can be mentioned, as they are sold for example under the trademark Luviskol ® (BASF) in this context.
  • Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73, each vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are particularly preferred nonionic polymers.
  • styrene / VP copolymer and / or a vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymer and / or a VP / DMAPA acrylates copolymer and / or a VP / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylates copolymer are very particularly preferably used in the cosmetic compositions .
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers are sold under the name Luviskol® VA by BASF SE.
  • a VP / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylates copolymer is sold by Ashland Inc. under the trade name Aquaflex® SF-40, for example.
  • a VP / DMAPA Acrylates copolymer is sold, for example, under the name Styleze CC-10 by Ashland and is a highly preferred vinylpyrrolidone-containing copolymer.
  • copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone that can be mentioned are the copolymers which are obtained by reacting N-vinylpyrrolidone with at least one further monomer the group of V-vinylformamide, vinyl acetate, ethylene, propylene, acrylamide, vinyl caprolactam, vinyl caprolactone and / or vinyl alcohol can be obtained.
  • a composition (B) is characterized in that it contains at least one film-forming, hydrophilic polymer selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / styrene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / Ethylene copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / propylene copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl caprolactam copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl formamide copolymers and / or vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl alcohol copolymers.
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers vinylpyrrolidone / styrene copolymers
  • vinylpyrrolidone / Ethylene copolymers vinyl pyrrolidone / propylene copolymers
  • Another suitable copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone is the polymer known under the INCI name maltodextrin / VP copolymer.
  • composition (B) contain at least one nonionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer.
  • a nonionic polymer is understood to mean a polymer which in a protic solvent - such as, for example, water - does not carry any structural units with permanently cationic or anionic groups under standard conditions which have to be compensated by counterions while maintaining electrical neutrality.
  • Cationic groups include, for example, quaternized ammonium groups but not protonated amines.
  • Anionic groups include, for example, carboxyl and sulfonic acid groups.
  • compositions (B) which contain, as the nonionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer, are at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of
  • Another particularly preferred polymer is selected from the polymers with the INCI name VP / Methacrylamide / Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer, which are available, for example, from BASF SE under the trade name Luviset Clear.
  • Another very particularly preferred nonionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer is a copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N, N-dimethylaminiopropyl methacrylamide, which, for example, with the INCI name VP / DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer z. B. is sold under the trade name Styleze ® CC 10 by the company ISP.
  • a cationic polymer according to the invention is the copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide and 3- (methacryloylamino) propyl-lauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-69), which is available, for example, under the trade name AquaStyle ® 300 (28-32% by weight of active substance in an ethanol-water mixture, molecular weight 350,000) is sold by ISP.
  • AquaStyle ® 300 28-32% by weight of active substance in an ethanol-water mixture, molecular weight 350,000
  • hydrophilic polymers are, for example
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers as offered under the names Luviquat ® FC 370, FC 550 and the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 as well as FC 905 and HM 552,
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl caprolactam-acrylate terpolymers such as those offered by Acrylklareestern and acrylamides as the third monomer commercially, for example under the name Aqua Flex ® SF 40th
  • Polyquaternium-11 is the reaction product of diethyl sulfate with a copolymer of vinyl pyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate.
  • Suitable commercial products are available, for example, under the names Dehyquart® CC 11 and Luviquat® PQ 11 PN from BASF SE or Gafquat 440, Gafquat 734, Gafquat 755 or Gafquat 755N from Ashland Inc.
  • Polyquaternium-46 is the reaction product of vinyl caprolactam and vinyl pyrrolidone with methyl vinyl imidazolium methosulfate and is available under the name Luviquat® Hold, for example available from BASF SE. Polyquaternium-46 is preferably used in an amount of 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. It is very particularly preferred that Polyquaternium-46 is used in combination with a cationic guar compound. It is even highly preferred that Polyquaternium-46 is used in combination with a cationic guar compound and Polyquaternium-11.
  • Acrylic acid polymers for example, which can be present in uncrosslinked or crosslinked form, can be used as suitable anionic film-forming, hydrophilic polymers.
  • Corresponding products are sold commercially, for example, under the trade names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by Lubrizol or also under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by 3V Sigma (The Sun Chemicals, Inter Harz).
  • Suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the group of natural gums are xanthan gum, gellan gum, carob gum.
  • Suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the group of the polysaccharides are hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose.
  • Suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the group of acrylamides are, for example, polymers which are produced starting from monomers of (meth) acrylamido-C1-C4-alkyl-sulfonic acid or the salts thereof.
  • Corresponding polymers can be selected from the polymers of polyacrylamido methanesulfonic acid, polyacrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, polyacrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, poly-2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, poly-2-methylacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and / or poly-2-methylacrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid.
  • Preferred polymers of the poly (meth) arylamido-C1-C4-alkyl-sulfonic acids are crosslinked and at least 90% neutralized. These polymers can be crosslinked or also uncrosslinked.
  • Crosslinked and completely or partially neutralized polymers of the poly-2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid type are known under the INCI names "Ammonium Polyacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonate” or "Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide”.
  • composition (B) contains at least one anionic, film-forming polymer.
  • composition (B) contains at least one film-forming polymer which comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (P1) and at least one structural unit of the formula (P-II) in which
  • M for a hydrogen atom or for ammonium (NFU), sodium, potassium, or magnesium Calcium stands.
  • the structural unit of the formula (P-1) is based on an acrylic acid unit.
  • the structural unit of the formula (P-1) is based on the ammonium salt of acrylic acid.
  • the structural unit of the formula (P-1) is based on the sodium salt of acrylic acid.
  • the structural unit of the formula (P-1) is based on the potassium salt of acrylic acid.
  • the structural unit of the formula (P-1) is based on the magnesium salt of acrylic acid.
  • the structural unit of the formula (P-1) is based on the calcium salt of acrylic acid.
  • the film-forming polymer or polymers are preferably used in certain quantity ranges in the composition (B).
  • the composition (B) - based in each case on its total weight - has one or more film-forming polymers in a total amount of 0.1 to 18.0% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 16.0% by weight, more preferably from 5.0 to 14.5% by weight and very particularly preferably from 8.0 to 12.0% by weight.
  • a method is characterized in that the composition (B) - based on its respective total weight - has one or more film-forming polymers in a total amount of 0.1 to 18.0% by weight, preferably from 1.0 to 16.0% by weight, more preferably from 5.0 to 14.5% by weight and very particularly preferably from 8.0 to 12.0% by weight.
  • composition (B) furthermore comprises one or more film-forming polymers
  • composition (B) also furthermore comprises at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments and substantive dyes.
  • coloring compounds from the group of pigments and substantive dyes which are disclosed as being suitable for use in composition (A) can be used as coloring compounds in the composition (B).
  • composition (B) can also contain one or more further cosmetic ingredients.
  • the cosmetic ingredients that can optionally be used in the composition (B) can be all suitable constituents in order to impart further positive properties to the composition.
  • compositions (AI and (Bl) Application of the compositions (AI and (Bl)
  • the method comprises applying both compositions (A) and (B) to the keratinic material.
  • the two compositions (A) and (B) are two different compositions. As already described above, it is particularly preferred if the composition (A) is applied to the keratin material first, and then the composition (B) is applied to the keratin material in the form of an aftertreatment agent.
  • composition (A) allowing the composition (A) to act on the keratin material for a period of 1 to 10 minutes, preferably 1 to 5 minutes,
  • composition (A) from the keratin material
  • composition (B) (4) applying the composition (B) to the keratin material
  • composition (B) allowing the composition (B) to act on the keratin material for a period of 1 to 10 minutes, preferably 1 to 5 minutes,
  • composition (B) rinsing the composition (B) from the keratin material.
  • Rinsing out the keratinous material with water in steps (3) and (6) of the method is understood according to the invention to mean that only water is used for the rinsing process, without any further compositions different from the compositions (A) and (B) would be used.
  • the composition (A) is first applied to the keratin materials, in particular the human hair.
  • composition (A) is allowed to act on the keratin materials.
  • exposure times of 10 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 20 seconds to 5 minutes and very particularly preferably from 30 seconds to 2 minutes on the hair have proven to be particularly advantageous.
  • the composition (A) can now be rinsed out of the keratin materials before the composition (B) is applied to the hair in the subsequent step.
  • step (4) the composition (B) is now applied to the keratin materials. After application, the composition (B) is now allowed to act on the hair.
  • compositions (A) and (B) Even with a short exposure time for compositions (A) and (B), the process allows dyeings to be produced with particularly good intensity and washfastness. Contact times from 10 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably from 20 seconds to 5 minutes and very particularly preferably from 30 seconds to 3 minutes on the hair have proven particularly advantageous.
  • step (6) the composition (B) is then rinsed out of the keratin material with water.
  • composition (A) allowing the composition (A) to act on the keratin material for a period of 1 to 10 minutes, preferably 1 to 5 minutes,
  • composition (A) from the keratin material
  • composition (B) (4) applying the composition (B) to the keratin material
  • composition (B) allowing the composition (B) to act on the keratin material for a period of 1 to 10 minutes, preferably 1 to 5 minutes,
  • composition (B) Rinsing the composition (B) out of the keratin material, in particular for the dyeing process, necessary compositions are provided in the form of a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts).
  • a second subject of the present invention is a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for coloring keratinic material, comprising a first container with a first composition (A) and a second container with a second composition (B), where the compositions (A) and (B) have already been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention.
  • kit-of-parts for coloring keratinic material
  • the multi-component packaging unit can also comprise further packaging units, each containing a cosmetic composition.
  • These compositions can contain ingredients which are chemically and / or physically incompatible with ingredients of the composition (A) and / or (B).
  • composition (A) contains the alkoxysilanes, a class of highly reactive compounds which, when used, can undergo hydrolysis or oligomerization and / or polymerization.
  • a multi-component packaging unit for coloring keratinous material, packaged separately from one another, comprises a first container with a first composition (A '), comprising one or more organic Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes and / or their Condensation products, a second container with a second composition (A ”), comprising at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments and substantive dyes, and a third container with a third composition (B), comprising shellac, the ingredients of the compositions that are essential to the invention (A '), (A “) and (B) have already been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention.
  • a multi-component packaging unit for coloring keratinous material, packaged separately from one another, comprises a first container with a first composition (A '), comprising one or more organic Ci-C6-alkoxysilanes and / or their condensation products , a second container with a second composition (A "), comprising at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments and substantive dyes, a third container with a third composition (A" '), comprising water, and a fourth container with a fourth composition (B), comprising shellac, the ingredients essential to the invention of compositions (A '), (A “), (A“') and (B) having already been disclosed in detail in the description of the first subject matter of the invention.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé de coloration de matières kératiniques, en particulier de cheveux humains, selon lequel les éléments suivants sont utilisés sur les matières kératiniques : une première composition (A) qui contient : (A1) un ou plusieurs alcoxysilanes en C1 à C6 organiques et/ou des produits de condensation de ceux-ci, et (A2) au moins un composé colorant du groupe des pigments et des colorants directs, et une seconde composition (B) qui contient (B1) de la gomme laque.
PCT/EP2020/079187 2019-12-16 2020-10-16 Procédé de coloration de matières kératiniques, comprenant l'utilisation d'un alcoxysilane en c1 à c6 organique, d'un composé colorant et de gomme laque WO2021121724A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102019219720.5A DE102019219720A1 (de) 2019-12-16 2019-12-16 Verfahren zur Färbung von Keratinmaterial, umfassend die Anwendung eines organischen C1-C6-Alkoxysilans, einer farbgebenden Verbindung und Schellack
DE102019219720.5 2019-12-16

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WO2021121724A1 true WO2021121724A1 (fr) 2021-06-24

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Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2004012691A1 (fr) * 2002-07-25 2004-02-12 Itn Nanovation Gmbh Utilisation de silanes dans des produits cosmetiques et procede de traitement capillaire
EP2168633B1 (fr) 2008-09-30 2016-03-30 L'Oréal Composition cosmétique comprenant un composé organique du silicium comportant au moins une fonction basique, un polymère filmogène hydrophobe, un pigment et un solvant volatil

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2004012691A1 (fr) * 2002-07-25 2004-02-12 Itn Nanovation Gmbh Utilisation de silanes dans des produits cosmetiques et procede de traitement capillaire
EP2168633B1 (fr) 2008-09-30 2016-03-30 L'Oréal Composition cosmétique comprenant un composé organique du silicium comportant au moins une fonction basique, un polymère filmogène hydrophobe, un pigment et un solvant volatil

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