EP4196078A1 - Composition cosmétique obtenue en mélangeant deux mélanges de silanes - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique obtenue en mélangeant deux mélanges de silanes

Info

Publication number
EP4196078A1
EP4196078A1 EP21734812.7A EP21734812A EP4196078A1 EP 4196078 A1 EP4196078 A1 EP 4196078A1 EP 21734812 A EP21734812 A EP 21734812A EP 4196078 A1 EP4196078 A1 EP 4196078A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
agent
acid
organic
group
water
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP21734812.7A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Phillip Jaiser
Torsten LECHNER
Gabriele Weser
Marc NOWOTTNY
Juergen Schoepgens
Andreas Walter
Ulrike Schumacher
Jing Hodes
Claudia Kolonko
Caroline KRIENER
Carsten MATHIASZYK
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP4196078A1 publication Critical patent/EP4196078A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585Organosilicon compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C07ORGANIC CHEMISTRY
    • C07FACYCLIC, CARBOCYCLIC OR HETEROCYCLIC COMPOUNDS CONTAINING ELEMENTS OTHER THAN CARBON, HYDROGEN, HALOGEN, OXYGEN, NITROGEN, SULFUR, SELENIUM OR TELLURIUM
    • C07F7/00Compounds containing elements of Groups 4 or 14 of the Periodic Table
    • C07F7/02Silicon compounds
    • C07F7/08Compounds having one or more C—Si linkages
    • C07F7/0834Compounds having one or more O-Si linkage
    • C07F7/0838Compounds with one or more Si-O-Si sequences
    • C07F7/0872Preparation and treatment thereof
    • C07F7/0874Reactions involving a bond of the Si-O-Si linkage
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08LCOMPOSITIONS OF MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS
    • C08L83/00Compositions of macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions forming in the main chain of the macromolecule a linkage containing silicon with or without sulfur, nitrogen, oxygen or carbon only; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • C08L83/04Polysiloxanes
    • C08L83/06Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to oxygen-containing groups
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08LCOMPOSITIONS OF MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS
    • C08L83/00Compositions of macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions forming in the main chain of the macromolecule a linkage containing silicon with or without sulfur, nitrogen, oxygen or carbon only; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • C08L83/04Polysiloxanes
    • C08L83/08Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to organic groups containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen and oxygen
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/432Direct dyes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • A61K2800/5922At least two compounds being classified in the same subclass of A61K8/18
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/882Mixing prior to application
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08GMACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED OTHERWISE THAN BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING UNSATURATED CARBON-TO-CARBON BONDS
    • C08G77/00Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions forming a linkage containing silicon with or without sulfur, nitrogen, oxygen or carbon in the main chain of the macromolecule
    • C08G77/04Polysiloxanes
    • C08G77/14Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to oxygen-containing groups
    • C08G77/18Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to oxygen-containing groups to alkoxy or aryloxy groups
    • CCHEMISTRY; METALLURGY
    • C08ORGANIC MACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS; THEIR PREPARATION OR CHEMICAL WORKING-UP; COMPOSITIONS BASED THEREON
    • C08GMACROMOLECULAR COMPOUNDS OBTAINED OTHERWISE THAN BY REACTIONS ONLY INVOLVING UNSATURATED CARBON-TO-CARBON BONDS
    • C08G77/00Macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions forming a linkage containing silicon with or without sulfur, nitrogen, oxygen or carbon in the main chain of the macromolecule
    • C08G77/04Polysiloxanes
    • C08G77/22Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to organic groups containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen and oxygen
    • C08G77/26Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to organic groups containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen and oxygen nitrogen-containing groups

Definitions

  • the present application relates to a cosmetic composition obtained by mixing the two agents (A) and (B).
  • the two agents (A) and (B) are two silane blends which are each obtained by reacting one or more organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes with a certain amount of water.
  • a second subject matter of the present invention is a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for dyeing keratin material, which, packaged separately in two packaging units, comprises the cosmetic preparation described above and also an agent (C), the agent (C) contains at least one coloring compound.
  • a third subject is a method for coloring keratinous material, in which the above-described cosmetic composition and agent (C) are applied to the keratinous material.
  • Oxidation colorants are usually used for permanent, intensive colorations with good fastness properties and good gray coverage. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components, which form the actual dyes with one another under the influence of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide. Oxidation coloring agents are characterized by very long-lasting coloring results.
  • color pigments are generally understood to mean insoluble, color-imparting substances. These are present in undissolved form in the form of small particles in the coloring formulation and are only deposited from the outside on the hair fibers and/or the surface of the skin. Therefore they can usually be removed without leaving any residue by washing a few times with detergents containing surfactants.
  • Various products of this type are available on the market under the name of hair mascara.
  • EP 2168633 B1 deals with the task of producing long-lasting hair coloring using pigments.
  • the document teaches that when using a combination of pigment, organic silicon compound, hydrophobic polymer and a solvent, colorations can be produced on hair which are particularly resistant to shampooing.
  • the organic silicon compounds used in EP 2168633 B1 are reactive compounds from the class of alkoxysilanes. These alkoxysilanes hydrolyze at high speed in the presence of water and form—depending on the amounts of alkoxysilane and water used in each case—hydrolysis products and/or condensation products. The influence of the amount of water used in this reaction on the properties of the hydrolysis or condensation product is described, for example, in WO 2013068979 A2.
  • a film or a coating is formed on the keratin material, which completely envelops the keratin material and in this way greatly influences the properties of the keratin material.
  • Possible areas of application are, for example, permanent styling or permanent changes in the shape of keratin fibers.
  • the keratin fibers are brought into the desired shape mechanically and then fixed in this shape by forming the coating described above.
  • Another particularly well suited application is the coloring of keratin material; in the context of this application, the coating or the film is produced in the presence of a coloring compound, for example a pigment.
  • a coloring compound for example a pigment.
  • the film colored by the pigment remains on the keratin material or the keratin fibers, and surprisingly wash-resistant colorations result.
  • the great advantage of the coloring principle based on alkoxy silanes is that the high reactivity of this class of compounds enables very fast coating. Extremely good coloring results can be achieved after a very short period of use of just a few minutes.
  • the high reactivity of alkoxysilanes also has some disadvantages. Even minor changes in production and application conditions, such as changes in humidity and/or temperature, can lead to major fluctuations in product performance. Above all, the work leading to this invention has shown that the alkoxysilanes are extremely sensitive to the conditions prevailing in the manufacture of the keratin treatment agents.
  • the mixtures of alkoxysiloxanes used in these agents or processes should be produced in a targeted manner in such a way that the optimal performance properties can be achieved in subsequent use.
  • the agents produced in this way should have an optimal degree of crosslinking or siloxane oligomers with an optimal distribution of the molecular weight, which should improve the coloring performance.
  • the agents, when used in a dyeing process should lead to dyeings with higher color intensity and improved fastness properties, in particular with improved fastness to washing and improved fastness to rubbing.
  • the agents produced in this way should be particularly stable on storage, and the later coloring potential of the agents should not depend on the storage time.
  • the two agents (A) and (B) are silane blends which are obtained by reacting C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes with a particular amount of water.
  • agent (A) the C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes are reacted with a smaller amount of water, whereas in the case of agent (B) a larger amount of water is reacted with the C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes.
  • a first subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratinous material, in particular human hair, which is obtained by mixing a first agent (A) with a second agent (B), wherein
  • the first agent (A) is obtained by reacting one or more organic C 1 - C 6 -alkoxysilanes with an amount of water which corresponds to the molar amount of water determined according to equation (G-1),
  • X [(n ⁇ (alkoxysilanes) xn ⁇ (alkoxy groups)] / n (H 2 O) (G-1)
  • n (H 2 O) is the molar amount of water used on average (A)
  • n ⁇ is the molar amount of the organic C 1 - C 6 -alkoxysilanes used on average (A)
  • n ⁇ is the number of C 1 - C 6 -alkoxy groups per organic C 1 - C 6 -alkoxysilane used on average (A)
  • X is a number from 3.0 to 100
  • the second agent (B) is obtained by reacting one or more organic C 1 - C 6 -alkoxysilanes with an amount of water corresponding to the molar amount of water determined according to equation (G-2),
  • Y [(n a (alkoxysilanes) xn b (alkoxy groups)]/m(H 2 O) (G-2)
  • m(H 2 O) is the molar amount of water used on average (B)
  • na is the molar amount of the organic C 1 - C 6 -alkoxysilanes used in average (B)
  • n b is the number of C 1 - C 6 -alkoxy groups per organic C 1 - C 6 -alkoxysilane used in average (B)
  • Y is a number from 0.1 to 2.9.
  • Keratinic material means hair, skin, nails (such as fingernails and/or toenails). Wool, fur and feathers also fall under the definition of keratin material.
  • Keratinic material is preferably understood to mean human hair, human skin and human nails, in particular fingernails and toenails. Very particularly preferably, keratin material is understood as meaning human hair.
  • Agents for the treatment of keratin material are understood to mean, for example, agents for coloring the keratin material, agents for reshaping or shaping keratin material, in particular keratin fibers, or also agents for conditioning or caring for the keratin material.
  • the agents produced by the process according to the invention are particularly suitable for coloring keratinic material, in particular for coloring keratinic fibers, which are particularly preferably human hair.
  • coloring agent is used in the context of this invention for coloring the keratin material, in particular the hair, caused by the use of coloring compounds such as pigments, mica, thermochromic and photochromic dyes, direct dyes and/or oxidation dyes.
  • coloring compounds such as pigments, mica, thermochromic and photochromic dyes, direct dyes and/or oxidation dyes.
  • the aforementioned coloring compounds are deposited in a particularly homogeneous and smooth film on the surface of the keratin material or diffuse into the keratin fibers.
  • the film is formed in situ by oligomerization or condensation of the organic silicon compound(s), with the coloring compound(s) interacting with this film or this coating and being embedded in it or surrounded by it.
  • Agent (A) is obtained by reacting one or more organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes with a specific amount of water, the amount of water used (calculated in moles of water) being given by formula (G-1).
  • the agent (A) can also be referred to as a silane blend and comprises one or more silanes which condense to form siloxanes during the reaction with the water and which have a specific molecular weight distribution and a specific oligomer structure.
  • the organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes are organic, non-polymeric silicon compounds which are preferably selected from the group of silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms.
  • Organic silicon compounds which are alternatively referred to as organosilicon compounds, are compounds that either have a direct silicon-carbon bond (Si—C) or in which the carbon is attached via an oxygen, nitrogen, or sulfur atom the silicon atom is linked.
  • the organic silicon compounds according to the invention are preferably compounds containing one to three silicon atoms.
  • the organic silicon compounds particularly preferably contain one or two silicon atoms.
  • silane stands for a group of chemical compounds based on a silicon backbone and hydrogen.
  • organic silanes some or all of the hydrogen atoms are replaced by organic groups such as (substituted) alkyl groups and/or alkoxy groups.
  • the C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes according to the invention thus comprise at least one structural unit R'R"R"'Si-O-(C 1 - C 6 -alkyl) where the radicals R', R" and R"' represent the three remaining bond valences of the silicon atom.
  • the C.sub.1 -C.sub.6 -alkoxy group or groups bonded to the silicon atom are very reactive and are hydrolyzed at high speed in the presence of water, the reaction speed also depending, inter alia, on the number of hydrolyzable groups per molecule.
  • the organic silicon compound preferably contains a structural unit R'R"R"'Si-O-CH2-CH3.
  • the radicals R', R" and R"' again represent the three remaining free valences of the silicon atom.
  • the first agent (A) is obtained by reacting one or more organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes of the formula (I) and/or (II) and/or (IV) with a certain amount of water .
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the first agent (A) is obtained by reacting one or more organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes of the formula (I) and/or (II) and /or (IV),
  • R 1 , R 2 independently represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 - C 6 -alkyl group
  • L represents a linear or branched, divalent C 1 -C 20 alkylene group
  • R 3 , R 4 independently represent a C 1 - C 6 alkyl group
  • a represents an integer from 1 to 3
  • b represents the integer 3 - a stands
  • A, A', A", A"' and A"" independently represent a linear or branched, divalent C 1 -C 20 -alkylene group
  • R 7 and R 8 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group, a hydroxy-C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group, a C 2 -C 6 -alkenyl group, an amino-C 1 - C 6 -alkyl group or a group of the formula (III),
  • - c' is an integer from 1 to 3
  • R9 represents a C 1 -C 12 alkyl group or a C 2 -C 12 alkenyl group
  • R10 represents a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group
  • - k is an integer from 1 to 4,
  • Examples of a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, s-butyl and t-butyl, n-pentyl and n-hexyl. Propyl, ethyl and methyl are preferred alkyl radicals.
  • Examples of a C 2 -C 6 -alkenyl group are vinyl, allyl, but-2-enyl, but-3-enyl and isobutenyl, preferred C 2 -C 6 -alkenyl radicals are vinyl and allyl.
  • a hydroxy C 1 -C 6 - alkyl group are hydroxymethyl, 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl, 3-hydroxypropyl, 4-hydroxybutyl, 5-hydroxypentyl and 6-hydroxyhexyl; a 2-hydroxyethyl group is particularly preferred.
  • Examples of an amino-C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group are the aminomethyl group, the 2-aminoethyl group, the 3-aminopropyl group. The 2-aminoethyl group is particularly preferred.
  • Examples of a linear divalent C 1 -C 20 -alkylene group are, for example, the methylene group (-CH 2 -), the ethylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -), the propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 - ) and the butylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -).
  • the propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -) is particularly preferred.
  • divalent alkylene groups can also be branched. Examples of branched divalent C 3 -C 20 alkylene groups are (-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-) and (-CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )-CH 2 -).
  • the radicals R 1 and R 2 independently represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 - C 6 - alkyl group.
  • the radicals R 1 and R 2 are very particularly preferably both hydrogen atoms.
  • the organic silicon compound In the middle part of the organic silicon compound is the structural unit or the linker -L- which stands for a linear or branched, divalent C 1 -C 20 -alkylene group.
  • the divalent C1- C20 alkylene group may alternatively also be referred to as a divalent or divalent C1- C20 alkylene group, by which is meant that each -L- moiety can form two bonds.
  • -L- preferably represents a linear, divalent C 1 -C 20 -alkylene group. More preferably -L- is a linear divalent C 1 -C 6 alkylene group. -L- is particularly preferably a methylene group (-CH 2 -), an ethylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -), a propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -) or a butylene group (-CH 2 - CH2 - CH2 - CH2- ). L is very particularly preferably a propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -).
  • the radicals R 3 and R 4 independently represent a C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group.
  • R 3 and R 4 particularly preferably independently represent a methyl group or an ethyl group.
  • a represents an integer of 1 to 3
  • b represents an integer of 3 - a. If a is the number 3, then b is equal to 0. If a is the number 2, then b is equal to 1. If a is 1, then b is 2.
  • At least one organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane of the formula (I) is reacted with water in which the radicals R 3 , R 4 independently represent a methyl group or an ethyl group.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the first agent (A) is obtained by reacting one or more organic C 1 - C 6 -alkoxysilanes of the formula (I) with water, where
  • R 3 , R 4 independently represent a methyl group or an ethyl group
  • organic silicon compounds of the formula (I) are commercially available.
  • (3-aminopropyl)trimethoxysilane is commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.
  • (3-Aminopropyl)triethoxysilane is also commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the first agent (A) is obtained by reacting one or more organic C 1 - C 6 -alkoxysilanes of the formula (II) with a certain amount of water,
  • organosilicon compounds of the formula (II) carry the silicon-containing groups (R 5 O) c (R 6 ) d Si- and -Si(R 6 ') d' (OR 5 ') c' at both of their ends
  • each of the radicals e, f, g and h can independently represent the number 0 or 1, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals e, f, g and h is different from 0 .
  • an organic silicon compound of the formula (II) according to the invention contains at least one group from the group consisting of -(A)- and - [NR 7 -(A')]- and -[O-(A”)]- and - [NR 8 -(A''')]-
  • the radicals R 5 , R 5 ', R 5 " are independent of one another for a C 1 - C 6 alkyl group.
  • the radicals R 6 , R 6 ' and R 6 " independently represent a C 1 - C 6 -alkyl group.
  • c is an integer of 1 to 3
  • d is an integer of 3 - c. If c is the number 3, then d is equal to 0. If c is the number 2, then d is equal to 1. If c is 1, then d is 2.
  • c' represents an integer from 1 to 3, and d' represents the integer 3 - c'. If c' represents the number 3, then d' equals 0. If c' represents the number 2, then d' equals 1 . If c' is the number 1, then d' is 2.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the first agent (A) is obtained by reacting one or more organic C 1 - C 6 -alkoxysilanes of the formula (II) with water,
  • R 5 and R 5 ' independently represent a methyl group or an ethyl group
  • the radicals e, f, g and h can, independently of one another, represent the number 0 or 1, with at least one radical from e, f, g and h being different from zero.
  • the abbreviations e, f, g and h therefore define which of the groups -(A) e - and -[NR 7 -(A')] f - and -[O-(A”)] g - and - [NR 8 -(A''')] h - are located in the central part of the organic silicon compound of formula (II).
  • the radicals A, A', A", A"' and A”" independently represent a linear or branched, divalent C 1 -C 20 -alkylene group.
  • the radicals A, A′, A′′, A′′′′ and A′′′′ independently of one another preferably represent a linear, divalent C 1 -C 20 -alkylene group. More preferably, the radicals A, A′, A′′, A′′′′ and A′′′′ independently represent a linear divalent C 1 -C 6 -alkylene group.
  • the divalent C 1 -C 20 alkylene group may alternatively also be referred to as a divalent or divalent C 1 -C 20 alkylene group, by which is meant that each moiety A, A', A", A"' and A"" is two can form bonds.
  • the radicals A, A', A", A"' and A"" independently represent a methylene group (-CH 2 -), an ethylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -), a propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -) or a butylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -).
  • the radicals A, A′, A′′, A′′′′ and A′′′′ are very particularly preferably a propylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -).
  • the organic silicon compound of the formula (II) according to the invention contains a structural grouping -[NR 7 -(A')]-.
  • the organic silicon compound of the formula (II) according to the invention contains a structural grouping -[NR 8 -(A''')]-.
  • radicals R 7 and R 8 independently stand for a hydrogen atom, a C1-C 6 - alkyl group, a hydroxy-C 1 - C 6 -alkyl group, a C 2 -C 6 -alkenyl group, an amino-C 1 - C 6 -alkyl group or a group of formula (III)
  • the radicals R 7 and R 8 are very particularly preferably, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-alkenyl group, a 2-aminoethyl group or a group of the formula (III).
  • the organosilicon compound of the present invention contains the [NR 7 -(A')] moiety but not the -[NR 8 -(A''')] moiety if the radical R 7 now stands for a group of the formula (III), then the pretreatment agent (a) contains an organic silicon compound having 3 reactive silane groups.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that agent (A) is obtained by reacting one or more organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes of the formula (II) with water,
  • a and A' independently represent a linear, divalent C 1 - C 6 -alkylene group
  • R 7 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-alkenyl group, a 2-aminoethyl group or a group of formula (III).
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (A) is obtained by reacting one or more organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes of the formula (II) with water, where
  • a and A' independently represent a methylene group (-CH 2 -), an ethylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -
  • R 7 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-alkenyl group, a 2-aminoethyl group or a group of formula (III).
  • bis(trimethoxysilylpropyl)amine with CAS number 82985-35-1 can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich.
  • bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]amine with CAS number 13497-18-2 is commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.
  • N-methyl-3-(trimethoxysilyl)-N-[3-(trimethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine is referred to as bis(3-trimethoxysilylpropyl)-N-methylamine and is commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich or Fluorochem .
  • 3-(Triethoxysilyl)-N,N-bis[3-(triethoxysilyl)propyl]-1-propanamine with CAS number 18784-74-2 can be purchased from Fluorochem or Sigma-Aldrich, for example.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (A) is obtained by reacting one or more organic C 1 - C 6 -alkoxysilanes of the formula (II) with water, one or more organic C 1 - C 6 -alkoxysilanes selected from the group
  • agent (A) is obtained by reacting one or more organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes of the formula (IV) with water,
  • the compounds of formula (IV) are organosilicon compounds selected from silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms, where the organosilicon compound comprises one or more hydrolysable groups per molecule.
  • R 9 represents a C 1 -C 12 alkyl group or a C 2 -C 12 alkenyl group
  • R 10 represents a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group
  • - k is an integer from 1 to 4,
  • - m is the integer 4 - k.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (A) is obtained by reacting one or more organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes of the formula (IV) with water,
  • R 9 represents a C 1 -C 12 alkyl group or a C 2 -C 12 alkenyl group
  • R 10 represents a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group
  • - k is an integer from 1 to 4,
  • the radical R 9 is a C 1 -C 12 - alkyl group or a C 2 -C 12 -alkenyl group.
  • This C 1 -C 12 alkyl group is saturated and can be linear or branched.
  • the C 2 -C 12 alkenyl group can comprise one or more double bonds and can be linear or branched.
  • R9 is preferably a linear C 1 -C 8 -alkyl group.
  • Rg preferably represents a methyl group, an ethyl group, an n-propyl group, an n-butyl group, an n-pentyl group, an n-hexyl group, an n-octyl group or an n-dodecyl group.
  • R 9 is particularly preferably a methyl group, an ethyl group or an n-octyl group.
  • the radical R 10 is a C 1 -C 6 -alkyl group.
  • R 10 particularly preferably represents a methyl group or an ethyl group. .
  • the silanes of the formula (IV) are tetra-C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes. Examples of suitable silanes of this type are tetraethoxysilane or tetramethoxysilane.
  • the silanes of the formula (IV) are C 1 -C 12 -alkyl-tri-C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes.
  • the silanes of the formula (IV) are di-C 1 -C 12 -alkyl-di-C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes.
  • the silanes of the formula (IV) are tri-C 1 -C 12 -alkyl-C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes.
  • Dyeings with the best fastness to washing could be obtained if, in the preparation of agent (A), at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (IV) in which the radical k is the number 3 was reacted with water. In this case, the remainder m stands for the number 1.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that agent (A) is obtained by reacting one or more organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes of the formula (IV) with water,
  • Rg represents a C 1 -C 8 alkyl group
  • R 10 represents a methyl group or an ethyl group
  • - n-dodecyltrimethoxysilane also referred to as dodecyltrimethoxysilane
  • - n-dodecyltriethoxysilane also referred to as dodecyltriethoxysilane
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (A) is obtained by reacting one or more organic C 1 - C 6 -alkoxysilanes of the formula (II) with water, one or more organic C 1 - C 6 -alkoxysilanes selected from the group
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the first agent (A) is obtained by reacting one or more organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes, which are selected from the group consisting of
  • agents (A) with particularly advantageous properties were obtained if mixtures of different C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes were also used in the preparation of agent (A). Particularly good results were obtained when both at least one organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane of the formula (I) and at least one organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane of the formula (IV) were used.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the first agent (A) is obtained by mixing one or more organic C 1 - C 6 -alkoxysilanes of the formula (I) and one or more organic C 1 - C 6 -Alkoxysilanes of the formula (IV) in a weight ratio of (I)/(IV) from 1:1 to 1:10, preferably from 1:1 to 1:8, more preferably from 1:1 to 1:6 more preferably from 1:1 to 1:4 and very particularly preferably from 1:2 to 1:4 are used with one another and reacted with water.
  • 1 part by weight of (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane and 1 part by weight of methyltriethoxysilane can be used.
  • 1 part by weight of (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane and 1 part by weight of methyltrimethoxysilane can also be used.
  • a weight ratio of the organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes of the formula (I) and the organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes of the formula (IV) ie at a weight ratio (I)/(IV) of 1:10
  • 1 part by weight of (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane and 10 parts by weight of methyltriethoxysilane can be used.
  • 1 part by weight of (3-aminopropyl)-triethoxysilane and 10 parts by weight of methyltrimethoxysilane can also be used.
  • the weight ratios given mean the total amount of all organic C 1 - C 6 -alkoxysilanes of the formula (I) used in the preparation of the agent (A) which add up to the total amount of all organic C 1 - C 6 -alkoxysilanes of the formula (IV) in Means (A) is put in relation.
  • the weight ratio of (I)/(IV) is very particularly preferably from 1:1 to 1:8, more preferably from 1:1 to 1:6, even more preferably from 1:1 to 1:4 and completely particularly preferably from 1:2 to 1:4.
  • the organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes of the formula (IV) are two to four times greater than the organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes of the formula (I). Excess weight used.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized in that the cosmetic agent contains a mixture of organic C 1 - C 6 -alkoxy siloxanes, which is obtained by one or more organic C 1 - C 6 -alkoxysilanes of the formula (I ) and one or more organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes of formula (II) in a weight ratio of (I)/(II) of 1:1 to 1:10, preferably from 1:1 to 1:8, more preferably from 1:1 to 1:6, even more preferably from 1:1 to 1:4 and very particularly preferably from 1:2 to 1 :4 to each other.
  • the mixture of one or more organic C 1 - C 6 - alkoxysilanes preferably those of the formula (I), (II) and / or (IV), mixed with water to a targeted To set hydrolysis and thereby caused a pre-condensation in motion.
  • Water can be added, for example, by adding the water dropwise or by pouring it in to the organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane(s).
  • a solvent can optionally be present during the hydrolysis.
  • the water can be added dropwise or at room temperature.
  • the mixture of organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes and, if appropriate, solvent is heated to a temperature of 30 to 80° C., preferably 40 to 75° C., more preferably from 45 to 70°C and most preferably from 50 to 65°C before adding the water.
  • the preferred and particularly preferred temperature ranges can be set by controlling the temperature of the reaction vessel or reactor.
  • the reaction vessel or the reactor can be surrounded from the outside with a temperature control bath, which can be, for example, a water bath or a silicone oil bath.
  • a temperature-controlled liquid can also be passed through the space which is formed by the two walls and which surrounds the reaction space.
  • the hydrolysis reaction is exothermic, it has proven to be particularly advantageous to stir or mix the reaction mixture to improve heat dissipation.
  • the water is therefore particularly preferably added with stirring.
  • the reaction now initiated by the addition of water and, if appropriate, a catalyst continues to be exothermic, so that the reaction mixture remains in the preferred temperature ranges indicated above or can also heat up further without further supply of energy. It is preferred if the additional heating due to the reaction exotherm remains within a range of 5 to 20°C. If the reaction mixture heats up beyond this range, it is advantageous to cool the mixture.
  • the water can be added continuously, in portions or directly as a total amount. To ensure adequate temperature control, the addition amount and speed of the water preferably adjusted. Depending on the amount of silanes used, the addition and reaction can take place over a period of 2 minutes to 72 hours.
  • targeted hydrolysis means that some, but not all, of the C 1 -C 6 -alkoxy groups present in the organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes are hydrolyzed.
  • the alkoxysilane-water ratio has an influence on the crosslinking within the siloxane network.
  • the degree of cross-linking can be described by so-called T-structures.
  • T 0 is an unreacted monomer such as methyltriethoxysilane.
  • T 1 bond there is a siloxane bond between two alkoxysilanes, and the two siloxanes are not bonded to any other alkoxysilane.
  • T 2 bond one alkoxysilane is bonded to exactly two others.
  • a T 3 bond describes a siloxane bonded to three other siloxanes.
  • the distribution of these different T structures can be influenced by using different molar ratios of alkoxysilanes to water.
  • a high ratio i.e. less water, leads to less crosslinked structures, while a low ratio, i.e. a larger amount of water, leads to stronger crosslinking.
  • the quantitative determination of the mean T0 structures, T1 structures, T2 structures and T3 structures can be carried out, for example, by means of quantitative 29Si-NMR spectroscopy.
  • the integrals of the individual signals could be compared with one another.
  • the sum over all integrals was set equal to 100 mol%.
  • the area of each individual signal was related to the total sum over all integrals.
  • the spectra can be measured, for example, by the method described in Journal of Organometallic Chemistry 625 (2001), 208-216.
  • the amount of water required to prepare the agent (A) corresponds to the molar amount of water, which is determined according to equation (E-1).
  • X [(n ⁇ (alkoxysilanes) xn ⁇ (alkoxy groups)] / n (H 2 O) (G-1) where n (H 2 O) is the molar amount of water used on average (A), n ⁇ is the molar amount of the organic C 1 - C 6 -alkoxysilanes used on average (A), n ⁇ is the number of C 1 - C 6 -alkoxy groups per organic C 1 - C 6 -alkoxysilane used on average (A), and
  • X is a number from 3.0 to 100
  • the index number X indicates the molar ratio of the total number of moles of hydrolyzable C 1 -C 6 -alkoxy groups, which is related to the molar amount of water used.
  • nl indicates the total molar amount of the organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes used on average (A). If only one C 1 - C 6 -alkoxysilane of a certain structure is used, then the total molar amount n ⁇ corresponds to the molar amount of the C 1 - C 6 -alkoxysilane used.
  • agent (A) if a mixture of C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes is used to prepare agent (A), the total molar amount is added up from the individual molar amounts of each C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane used.
  • n indicates the number of C 1 -C 6 -alkoxy groups per organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane used on average (A). If only one C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane of a certain structure is used, then nil corresponds to the number of C 1 -C 6 -alkoxy groups present in this molecule.
  • agent (A) if a mixture of C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes is used to prepare agent (A), the number of C 1 -C 6 -alkoxy groups of each individual C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane is included in the equation.
  • 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane has 3 hydrolyzable alkoxy groups per molecule
  • Methyltrimethoxysilane has 3 hydrolyzable alkoxy groups per molecule
  • the value X is calculated by applying the formula (G-1 ') and forming corresponding sums, ie
  • 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane has 3 hydrolyzable alkoxy groups per molecule
  • Methyltrimethoxysilane has 3 hydrolyzable alkoxy groups per molecule
  • the degree of crosslinking set by adding the appropriate amount of water when preparing agent (A) influences the performance properties of the coating produced on the keratin material during later use.
  • a particularly stable and resistant film could be produced if the first agent (A) is obtained by reacting with an amount of water which corresponds to the molar amount of water which is determined according to equation (G-1), where
  • X is a number from 3.5 to 85.0, preferably from 3.7 to 65.0, more preferably from 3.9 to 45.0, even more preferably from 4.1 to 25.9 and most preferably from is 4.3 to 5.0.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the first agent (A) is obtained by reaction with an amount of water which corresponds to the molar amount of water which is obtained according to equation (G-1) determined where
  • X is a number from 3.5 to 85.0, preferably from 3.7 to 65.0, more preferably from 3.9 to 45.0, even more preferably from 4.1 to 25.9 and most preferably from is 4.3 to 5.0.
  • agent (B) is also obtained by reacting one or more organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes with a certain amount of water.
  • the amount of water used (calculated in moles of water) is given by formula (G-2).
  • G-2 a larger amount of water is used in the preparation of agent (B).
  • Agent (B) can also be referred to as a silane blend and comprises a mixture of C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes which have reacted to form siloxanes. Due to the other application amount of water, the molecular weight distribution and the oligomer structure on average (B) is different than on average (A).
  • the production method of the agents (A) and (B) can in principle be chosen to be the same.
  • the difference lies in the different amounts of water required to produce agents (A) and (B). Less water is used in the production of agent (A), whereas the amount of water used is greater in the production of agent (B).
  • the organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes which have already been described in detail in connection with the production of this agent (A) can be used in particular in the preparation of the agent (B). At this point, explicit reference is made to the section "Organic C 1 - C 6 - alkoxy silanes on average (A)".
  • the organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes described as being preferred or particularly preferred in the preparation of agent (A) are also preferred or particularly preferred in the preparation of agent (B).
  • agent (B) The same organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes that are also used in the preparation of agent (A) can be used to prepare agent (B). However, it is also possible and according to the invention if agent (B) is obtained by reaction of organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes which differ from those used in agent (A).
  • organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes are preferably used in agents (A) and (B).
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the second agent (B) is obtained by reacting one or more organic C 1 - C 6 -alkoxysilanes of the formula (I) and/or (II ) and/or (IV) with water,
  • R 1 , R 2 independently represent a hydrogen atom or a C 1 - C 6 -alkyl group
  • L represents a linear or branched, divalent C 1 -C 20 alkylene group
  • R 3 , R 4 independently represent a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group
  • a represents an integer from 1 to 3
  • b represents the integer 3 - a stands
  • A, A', A", A"' and A"" independently represent a linear or branched, divalent C 1 -C 20 -alkylene group
  • R 7 and R 8 independently represent a hydrogen atom, a C 1 - C 6 -alkyl group, a hydroxy-C 1 - C 6 -alkyl group, a C 2 -C 6 -alkenyl group, an amino-C 1 - C 6 -alkyl group or a group of the formula (III),
  • - c' is an integer from 1 to 3
  • R9 represents a C 1 -C 12 alkyl group or a C 2 -C 12 alkenyl group
  • R10 represents a C 1 - C 6 alkyl group
  • - k is an integer from 1 to 4,
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the second agent (B) is obtained by reacting one or more organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes, which are selected from the group consisting of
  • agent (B) either only one organic C 1 - C 6 -alkoxysilane from the group of compounds of the formula (I), only one organic C 1 - C 6 -alkoxysilane from the group of compounds of the formula ( II), or just an organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane from the group of compounds of the formula (IV) can be used.
  • agent (B) When preparing agent (B), it is also possible with preference to use the mixtures of organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes which have also been mentioned as being preferred in connection with the preparation of agent (A).
  • the mixture of one or more organic C 1 - C 6 - alkoxysilanes preferably those of the formula (I) and / or (II) and / or (IV), mixed with water to to initiate a targeted hydrolysis and, as a result, a pre-condensation.
  • the amount of water used in the preparation of agent (B) is higher.
  • Water can be added, for example, by adding the water dropwise or by pouring it in to the mixture of the organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes and the solvent.
  • the addition of the water when preparing the agent (B) can be carried out analogously to the preparation of the agent (A).
  • the degree of crosslinking is also influenced in agent (B) by using different molar ratios between alkoxysilanes and water.
  • a high ratio i.e. less water, leads to less crosslinked structures, while a low ratio, i.e. a larger amount of water, leads to stronger crosslinking.
  • the alkoxysilane-water ratio also affects the crosslinking within the siloxane network in agent (B).
  • the degree of crosslinking can be described by so-called T structures.
  • T 0 is an unreacted monomer such as methyltriethoxysilane.
  • T 1 bond there is a siloxane bond between two alkoxysilanes, and the two siloxanes are not bonded to any other alkoxysilane.
  • T 2 bond one alkoxysilane is bonded to exactly two others.
  • a T 3 bond describes a siloxane bonded to three other siloxanes.
  • the distribution of these different T structures can be influenced by using different molar ratios between alkoxysilanes and water.
  • a high ratio i.e. less water, leads to less crosslinked structures, while a low ratio, i.e. a larger amount of water, leads to stronger crosslinking.
  • the quantitative determination of the mean T0 structures, T1 structures, T2 structures and T3 structures can be carried out, for example, by means of quantitative 29Si-NMR spectroscopy.
  • the integrals of the individual signals could be compared with one another.
  • the sum over all integrals was set equal to 100 mol%.
  • the area of each individual signal was related to the total sum over all integrals.
  • the amount of water required to prepare the agent (B) corresponds to the molar amount of water, which is determined according to equation (E-2).
  • Y [(n a (alkoxysilanes) xn b (alkoxy groups)] / m(H 2 O) (G-2)
  • m(H 2 O) is the molar amount of water used on average (B)
  • na is the molar amount of organic C 1 - C 6 -alkoxysilanes used on average ( B)
  • n b is the number of C 1 - C 6 -alkoxy groups per organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane used on average (B)
  • Y is a number from 0.1 to 2.9.
  • the index number Y indicates the molar ratio of the total number of moles of hydrolyzable C 1 -C 6 -alkoxy groups, which is related to the molar amount of water used.
  • na indicates the total molar amount of the organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes used on average (B). If only one C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane of a certain structure is used, then the total molar amount n a corresponds to the molar amount of the C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane used.
  • agent (B) if a mixture of C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes is used to prepare agent (B), the total molar amount is added up from the individual molar amounts of each C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane used.
  • n b indicates the number of C 1 -C 6 -alkoxy groups per organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane used on average (B). If only one C 1 - C 6 -alkoxysilane of a certain structure is used, then nb corresponds to the number of C 1 - C 6 -alkoxy groups present in this molecule.
  • 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane has 3 hydrolyzable alkoxy groups per molecule
  • Methyltrimethoxysilane has 3 hydrolyzable alkoxy groups per molecule
  • the value Y is calculated by applying the formula (E-2') and forming corresponding sums, ie
  • the degree of crosslinking set by adding the appropriate amount of water during production of agent (B) influences the performance properties of the coating produced on the keratin material during later use.
  • a particularly stable and resistant film could be produced if the second agent (B) is obtained by reacting with an amount of water which corresponds to the molar amount of water determined according to equation (G-2), where
  • Y is a number from 0.4 to 2.8, preferably from 0.7 to 2.7, more preferably from 1.0 to 2.6, even more preferably from 1.3 to 2.5 and very particularly preferably from is 1.7 to 2.4.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that the second agent (B) is obtained by reacting with an amount of water that corresponds to the molar amount of water determined according to equation (G-2). , whereby
  • Y is a number from 0.4 to 2.8, preferably from 0.7 to 2.7, more preferably from 1.0 to 2.6, even more preferably from 1.3 to 2.5 and very particularly preferably from is 1.7 to 2.4.
  • the reaction of the organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes with water can take place in various ways.
  • the reaction starts as soon as the C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes come into contact with water through mixing.
  • an exothermic hydrolysis reaction takes place according to the following scheme (reaction scheme using 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane as an example):
  • the hydrolysis reaction can also take place several times per C 1 - C 6 alkoxy silane used:
  • the hydrolysis reaction can also take place several times per C 1 - C 6 -alkoxysilane used:
  • Both partially hydrolyzed and completely hydrolyzed C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes can take part in the condensation reaction and undergo a condensation with unreacted, partially or completely hydrolyzed C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes.
  • condensation reactions are (shown using the mixture of (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane and methyltrimethoxysilane):
  • condensation to give a dimer is shown in each case, but more extensive condensations to give oligomers having a plurality of silane atoms are also possible and also preferred, since they lead to the crosslinking of the siloxane mixture described above.
  • the agents (A) and (B) are preferably prepared from organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysiloxanes in a reactor or reaction vessel suitable for this purpose.
  • a reaction vessel that is very well suited for smaller batches is, for example, a glass flask usually used for chemical reactions with a capacity of 1 liter, 3 liters or 5 liters, for example a 3-liter single-neck or multi-neck flask with ground joints.
  • a reactor is a delimited space (container, container) that was specially designed and manufactured to allow certain reactions to take place and to be controlled under defined conditions.
  • Typical reactors can have a capacity of 10 liters, 20 liters or 50 liters, for example. Larger reactors for the production area can also have capacities of 100 liters, 500 liters or 1000 liters.
  • Double-walled reactors have two reactor shells or reactor walls, with a tempering liquid being able to circulate in the area located between the two walls. This enables the temperature to be set to the required values particularly well.
  • reactors in particular double-walled reactors with an enlarged heat exchange surface, has also proven to be particularly suitable, it being possible for the heat exchange here to take place either through internal fittings or also through the use of an external heat exchanger.
  • Corresponding reactors are, for example, laboratory reactors from IKA.
  • the models "LR-2.ST” or the model “magic plant” can be called.
  • reactors that can be used are reactors with a thin-film evaporator, since very good heat dissipation and therefore particularly precise temperature control can be carried out in this way.
  • thin-film evaporators are also referred to as thin-film evaporators.
  • Thin film evaporators can be purchased commercially from Asahi Glassplant Inc., for example.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is then obtained by mixing a first agent (A) with a second agent (B).
  • this mixing takes place before the cosmetic composition is applied to the keratin material.
  • the agents (A) and (B) can be mixed either shortly before use, or the two agents (A) and (B) can, for example, first be produced separately, then stored for a certain period of time and then mixed together. After this mixing process, the cosmetic preparation can be stored again for a certain period of time before it is then applied to the keratin material.
  • Agents (A) and (B) can initially be stored for a few days, weeks or months, for example, before being mixed together.
  • the cosmetic preparation produced by mixing agents (A) and (B) can also be stored again for some time, for example a day, week or month. It has been found to be particularly preferred to fill the cosmetic composition, after mixing the agents (A) and (B), into a small container such as a bottle, tube, sachet or jar, which is suitable for use in the end consumer area and can be applied to the hair by the user, for example, as part of a hair treatment.
  • the degree of crosslinking in the cosmetic composition according to the invention also depends on the mixing ratio in which the two agents (A) and (B) are mixed with one another. In order to produce particularly stable, resistant and reproducible films or coatings on the keratin material, it has proven to be particularly preferable to mix agents (A) and (B) with one another in a specific proportion.
  • agent (A) and the agent (B) were used in a weight ratio (A)/(B) of from 1:5 to 5:1, preferably from 1:4 to 4:1, more preferably from 1:3 to 3:1, even more preferably from 1:1 to 3:1 and very particularly preferably from 2:1 to 3:1.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that it is obtained by mixing the first agent (A) with the second agent (B) in a weight ratio (A)/(B) of 1:5 to 5: 1, preferably from 1:4 to 4:1, more preferably from 1:3 to 3:1, even more preferably from 1:1 to 3:1 and very particularly preferably from 2:1 to 3:1.
  • the weight ratio (A)/B) is 23/10 and is therefore 2.3:1.
  • agent (A) was produced, filled into separate containers and then stored for 14 days. Thereafter, 50 g of agent (A) was mixed with 20 g of agent (B).
  • the weight ratio (A)/B) is 50/20 and is therefore 2.5:1.
  • the agents (A) and (B) can be mixed, for example, by stirring or by shaking. Depending on the batch size of the agents (A) and (B) produced, the mixing can be carried out, for example, in a smaller vessel with, for example, a flask or beaker, or--in the case of larger batches--in a reactor.
  • T0 structures, T1 structures, T2 structures and T3 structures present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention can also be determined quantitatively by means of quantitative 29Si-NMR spectroscopy.
  • the mixing can be carried out, for example, by first placing the solvent other than water in a suitable reactor or reaction vessel and then adding the organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane(s).
  • the addition can be done by dropping or pouring.
  • a sequential procedure is also possible, ie first adding solvent and a first organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane, then adding a solvent again and then again adding a further organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane.
  • the solvent is preferably added with stirring.
  • a solvent which has a boiling point of 20 to 90° C., preferably 30 to 85° C. and very particularly preferably 40 to 80° C. at atmospheric pressure (1013 hPa).
  • very particularly preferred solvents can be selected from the group of monohydric or polyhydric C 1 -C 12 alcohols.
  • Monohydric or polyhydric C 1 -C 12 alcohols are compounds with one to twelve carbon atoms which carry one or more hydroxy groups. According to the invention, other functional groups other than the hydroxy groups are not present in the C 1 -C 12 -alcohols.
  • the C 1 -C 12 alcohols can be aliphatic or aromatic.
  • C 1 -C 12 alcohols examples include methanol, ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol, n-pentanol, n-hexanol, benzyl alcohol, 2-phenylethanol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol and glycerol .
  • C 1 -C 12 alcohols which are very particularly suitable are methanol, ethanol and isopropanol.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that
  • the first agent (A) is obtained by reacting one or more organic C 1 - C 6 - alkoxysilanes with water in the presence of a solvent selected from the group consisting of methanol, ethanol and isopropanol, and/or
  • the second agent (B) is obtained by reacting one or more organic C 1 - C 6 - alkoxysilanes with water in the presence of a solvent selected from the group consisting of methanol, ethanol and isopropanol.
  • the solvent can be removed again. Removal can be accomplished by distillation under reduced pressure, for example using a rotary evaporator. More work have shown, however, that it can also be advantageous to leave the solvent or solvents in the mixture of organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysiloxanes.
  • one or more organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes are reacted with water, hydrolysis and precondensation of the C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes taking place.
  • This reaction particularly preferably takes place in the presence of a catalyst, with the addition of the catalyst initiating or accelerating the hydrolysis reaction.
  • a catalyst to be a substance that increases the reaction rate by lowering the activation energy of a chemical reaction without being consumed in the process.
  • the catalyst can be added before or after the water has been added.
  • the catalyst is very particularly preferably selected from the group consisting of inorganic or organic acids and inorganic or organic bases.
  • catalyst aromatics are inorganic and organic acids, which can preferably be selected from the group consisting of sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, maleic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, methanesulfonic acid, benzoic acid, malonic acid, oxalic acid and 1-hydroxyethane-1 ,1-diphosphonic acid.
  • sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid and maleic acid are explicitly very particularly preferred.
  • catalysts are inorganic and organic bases, which can preferably be selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide and calcium hydroxide.
  • sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide are very particularly preferred.
  • Alkanolamines can be selected from primary amines with a C 2 -C 6 -alkyl skeleton which carries at least one hydroxyl group.
  • Preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group formed by 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropane -2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1 -amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropane-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol.
  • an amino acid is an organic compound whose structure contains at least one protonatable amino group and at least one —COOH or one —SO 3 H group.
  • Preferred amino acids are amino carboxylic acids, in particular ⁇ -(alpha)-amino carboxylic acids and ⁇ -amino carboxylic acids, a-amino carboxylic acids being particularly preferred.
  • basic amino acids are to be understood as meaning those amino acids which have an isoelectric point pI greater than 7.0.
  • Basic ⁇ -amino carboxylic acids contain at least one asymmetric carbon atom.
  • both possible enantiomers can be used equally as a specific compound or else mixtures thereof, in particular as racemates.
  • the basic amino acids are preferably selected from the group formed from arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine, particularly preferably from arginine and lysine.
  • an agent according to the invention is therefore characterized in that the alkalizing agent is a basic amino acid from the group arginine, lysine, ornithine and/or histidine.
  • inorganic alkalizing agents or bases can also be used.
  • Inorganic alkalizing agents that can be used according to the invention can be selected, for example, from the group formed by sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, sodium metasilicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate and potassium carbonate.
  • a process according to the invention is characterized in that the catalyst is selected from the group of inorganic and organic bases, preferably from the group of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide and calcium hydroxide.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention is characterized in that - the first agent (A) is obtained by reacting one or more organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes with water in the presence of a catalyst from the group consisting of sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, maleic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, lactic acid , acetic acid, methanesulfonic acid, benzoic acid, malonic acid, oxalic acid and 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide and calcium hydroxide, and/or
  • a catalyst from the group consisting of sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, maleic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, lactic acid , acetic acid, methanesulfonic acid, benzoic acid, malonic acid, oxalic acid and 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-di
  • the second agent (B) is obtained by reacting one or more organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes with water in the presence of a catalyst from the group consisting of sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, maleic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, lactic acid , acetic acid, methanesulfonic acid, benzoic acid, malonic acid, oxalic acid and 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide and calcium hydroxide.
  • a catalyst from the group consisting of sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, maleic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, lactic acid , acetic acid, methanesulfonic acid, benzoic acid, malonic acid, oxalic acid and 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide
  • the catalysts are preferably used in the amount ranges customary for catalysts. Since the catalysts accelerate the hydrolysis or condensation without being consumed themselves, the amounts used can be selected to be correspondingly small.
  • the catalyst or catalysts can be used in a quantity range from 0.0000001 to 2.0% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 1.5% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.01 to 1.0% by weight.
  • % on average (A) and/or (B) can be used.
  • the percentage by weight relates to the total amount of catalyst used, which is related to the total amount of organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysiloxanes plus solvent plus water used in the agent in question.
  • agents (A) and (B) are conceivable for the preparation of agents (A) and (B).
  • a possible production process is, for example, the following: i) A quantity of solvent, for example ethanol or methanol, and a quantity of organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane, for example methyltrimethoxysilane or methyltriethoxysilane, are placed in a round bottom flask. ii) The filled round bottom flask is equipped with a stirrer and a thermometer. iii) The round bottom flask is then clamped into a stirring apparatus and connected to the cooling system. iv) The contents of the flask are brought to the desired temperature by means of an oil bath while stirring at 500 rpm.
  • solvent for example ethanol or methanol
  • organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilane for example methyltrimethoxysilane or methyltriethoxysilane
  • the catalyst used is at least one acid, for example an acid from the group consisting of sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, maleic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, methanesulfonic acid, benzoic acid, malonic acid, Oxalic acid and 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid is used.
  • an acid from the group consisting of sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, phosphoric acid, maleic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, methanesulfonic acid, benzoic acid, malonic acid, Oxalic acid and 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid is used.
  • this production process is particularly well suited when at least one base, preferably from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide and calcium hydroxide, is used as the catalyst.
  • Another possible manufacturing process is as follows: i.) A quantity of solvent, for example ethanol or methanol, and a quantity of organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes, for example methyltrimethoxysilane and/or methyltriethoxysilane and/or (3-aminopropyl) are added to a round bottom flask. -triethoxysilane, submitted.
  • solvent for example ethanol or methanol
  • organic C 1 -C 6 -alkoxysilanes for example methyltrimethoxysilane and/or methyltriethoxysilane and/or (3-aminopropyl
  • a mixture of methyltriethoxysilane and (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane, a mixture of methyltriethoxysilane and (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane or a mixture of ethyltriethoxysilane and (3-aminopropyl)triethoxysilane are particularly preferably initially taken in this step.
  • the filled round bottom flask is fitted with a stirrer and a thermometer.
  • the round bottom flask is then clamped into a stirring apparatus and connected to the cooling system.
  • the contents of the flask are brought to the desired temperature by means of an oil bath while stirring at 500 rpm.
  • This production process is particularly well suited when at least one base, for example a base from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide and calcium hydroxide, is used as the catalyst.
  • a base for example a base from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide and calcium hydroxide, is used as the catalyst.
  • Multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts)
  • the cosmetic composition of the first subject matter of the invention shows particularly good suitability for the treatment of keratinic materials, a treatment being understood to mean, for example, care, conditioning, shaping or also styling.
  • the cosmetic composition is particularly well suited for coloring the cosmetic material.
  • the film or the coating is preferably formed in the presence of a coloring compound, in particular in the presence of a pigment and/or a direct dye. It is of particular advantage here if the coloring compounds are made available to the user in a separate, separately prepared packaging unit.
  • a second subject matter of the present invention is a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for coloring keratin material, in particular human hair, which is made up separately from one another
  • the cosmetic composition produced by mixing agents (A) and (B) preferably contains no further cosmetic ingredients.
  • the separately packaged agents (C) and optionally (D) can contain various other ingredients.
  • the cosmetic ingredients that can optionally be used in the cosmetic carrier can be any suitable components in order to impart further positive properties to the agent.
  • the films formed on the keratin material not only had good rub fastness, but also a particularly high color intensity if a coloring compound from the group of pigments and/or the substantive ones was used in the process Dyes was applied.
  • the use of pigments has proven to be very particularly preferred.
  • the color-providing compound or compounds can be selected from the group of pigments and substantive dyes, it also being possible for the substantive dyes to be photochromic dyes and thermochromic dyes.
  • pigments are understood to mean coloring compounds which have a solubility in water at 25° C. of less than 0.5 g/l, preferably less than 0.1 g/l, even more preferably less than 0. Possess 05 g/L.
  • the water solubility can be determined, for example, using the method described below: 0.5 g of the pigment is weighed out in a glass beaker. A stir bar is added. Then one liter of distilled water is added. This mixture is heated to 25°C with stirring on a magnetic stirrer for one hour. If undissolved components of the pigment are still visible in the mixture after this period, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g/L.
  • the mixture is filtered. If a proportion of undissolved pigments remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g/L.
  • Suitable color pigments can be of inorganic and/or organic origin.
  • a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) according to the invention is characterized in that agent (C) contains at least one coloring compound from the group of inorganic and/or organic pigments.
  • Preferred color pigments are selected from synthetic or natural inorganic pigments.
  • Inorganic color pigments of natural origin can be made from chalk, ochre, umbra, green earth, burnt terra di sienna or graphite.
  • black pigments such as B. iron oxide black, colored pigments such.
  • B. ultramarine or iron oxide red and fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments can be used.
  • Colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides and metal oxide hydrates, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, metal chromates and/or metal molybdates are particularly suitable.
  • Particularly preferred color pigments are black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, pigment blue 29), hydrated chromium oxide (CI77289 ), Iron Blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, CI77510) and/or Carmine (Cochineal).
  • Coloring compounds from the group of pigments which are also particularly preferred according to the invention are colored pearlescent pigments. These are usually based on mica and/or mica and can be coated with one or more metal oxides. Mica belongs to the layered silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite and margarite. To produce the pearlescent pigments in combination with metal oxides, the mica, mainly muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide.
  • a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) according to the invention is characterized in that agent (C) contains at least one coloring compound from the group of inorganic pigments, which is selected from the group of colored metal oxides , metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and/or colored pigments based on mica or mica, which are coated with at least one metal oxide and/or one metal oxychloride.
  • agent (C) contains at least one coloring compound from the group of inorganic pigments, which is selected from the group of colored metal oxides , metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and/or colored pigments based on mica or mica, which are coated with at least one metal oxide and/or one metal oxychloride.
  • synthetic mica optionally coated with one or more metal oxide(s) can also be used as pearlescent pigment.
  • Particularly preferred pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica (mica) and are coated with one or more of the aforementioned metal oxides. The color of the respective pigments can be varied by varying the layer thickness of the metal oxide(s).
  • a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (C) contains at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments, which is selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, Metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and/or from coloring compounds on mica or mica base coated with at least one metal oxide and/or one metal oxychloride.
  • the agent (C) contains at least one coloring compound from the group of pigments, which is selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, Metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and/or from coloring compounds on mica or mica base coated with at least one metal oxide and/or one metal oxychloride.
  • a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (C) contains at least one coloring compound which is selected from pigments based on mica or mica, which are coated with one or more metal oxides from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and/or brown iron oxide (CI 77491, CI 77499), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), hydrated chromium oxide (CI 77289), chromium oxide (CI 77288) and/or iron blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, Cl 77510).
  • the agent (C) contains at least one coloring compound which is selected from pigments based on mica or mica, which are coated with one or more metal oxides from the group consisting of titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow
  • color pigments are commercially available, for example under the trade names Rona®, Colorona®, Xirona®, Dicrona® and Timiron® from Merck, Ariabel® and Unipure® from Sensient, Prestige® from Eckart Cosmetic Colors and Sunshine® available from Sunstar.
  • Colorona® Very particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Colorona® are, for example:
  • color pigments with the trade name Xirona® are, for example:
  • color pigments with the trade name Unipure® are, for example:
  • Timiron Diamond Cluster MP 149 Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide)
  • the agent (C) used in the kit-of-part according to the invention can also contain one or more color-imparting compounds from the group of organic pigments
  • the organic pigments according to the invention are correspondingly insoluble organic dyes or lakes, for example from the group of nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, anthraquinone, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene - , diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindido, dioxazine, and/or triarylmethane compounds can be selected.
  • Particularly suitable organic pigments are, for example, carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11680 , CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11725 , CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800
  • a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) according to the invention is characterized in that agent (C) contains at least one coloring compound from the group of organic pigments selected from the group of carmine, quinacridone , phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 11680, CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21 108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 1 1725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105 , red pigments with the Color Index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12
  • the organic pigment can also be a colored lake.
  • the term colored lake is understood to mean particles which comprise a layer of absorbed dyes, the unit made up of particles and dye being insoluble under the above-mentioned conditions.
  • the particles can be, for example, inorganic substrates, which can be aluminum, silica, calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate or aluminum.
  • Alizarin color lake for example, can be used as the color lake.
  • the use of the aforementioned pigments in the agents according to the invention is particularly preferred. Furthermore, it is preferred if the pigments used have a specific particle size. On the one hand, this particle size leads to a uniform distribution of the pigments in the polymer film formed and, on the other hand, avoids a rough feel on the hair or skin after the cosmetic agent has been applied. It is therefore advantageous according to the invention if the at least one pigment has an average particle size D 50 of from 1.0 to 50 ⁇ m, preferably from 5.0 to 45 ⁇ m, preferably from 10 to 40 ⁇ m, in particular from 14 to 30 ⁇ m.
  • the mean particle size D 50 can be determined, for example, using dynamic light scattering (DLS).
  • Pigments with a specific shape can also be used to color the keratin material.
  • a pigment based on a lamellar and/or a lenticular substrate flake can be used.
  • coloring based on a small substrate plate comprising a vacuum-metallized pigment is also possible.
  • a method according to the invention can be characterized in that the corresponding agent also contains one or more coloring compounds from the group of pigments based on a lamellar substrate flake, pigments based on a lenticular substrate flake and vacuum metallized pigments.
  • the substrate flakes of this type have an average thickness of at most 50 nm, preferably less than 30 nm, particularly preferably at most 25 nm, for example at most 20 nm.
  • the average thickness of the substrate flakes is at least 1 nm, preferably at least 2.5 nm, particularly preferably at least 5 nm, for example at least 10 nm.
  • Preferred ranges for the thickness of the substrate flakes are 2.5 to 50 nm, 5 to 50 nm, 10 to 50nm; 2.5 to 30nm, 5 to 30nm, 10 to 30nm; 2.5 to 25 nm, 5 to 25 nm, 10 to 25 nm, 2.5 to 20 nm, 5 to 20 nm and 10 to 20 nm.
  • Each substrate plate preferably has a thickness which is as uniform as possible.
  • the pigment Due to the small thickness of the substrate flakes, the pigment has a particularly high hiding power.
  • the substrate plates have a monolithic structure.
  • monolithic means consisting of a single self-contained unit without fractures, layers or inclusions, although structural changes can occur within the substrate platelets.
  • the substrate flakes are preferably constructed homogeneously, ie that within the flakes no concentration gradient occurs. In particular, the substrate flakes are not built up in layers and have no particles or particles distributed therein.
  • the size of the small substrate can be adjusted to the respective application, in particular the desired effect on the keratin material.
  • the substrate flakes have an average largest diameter of about 2 to 200 ⁇ m, in particular about 5 to 100 ⁇ m.
  • the form factor (aspect ratio), expressed as the ratio of the average size to the average thickness, is at least 80, preferably at least 200, more preferably at least 500, particularly preferably more than 750.
  • the mean size of the uncoated substrate flakes is the d50 value of the uncoated substrate flakes. Unless otherwise stated, the d50 value was determined using a Sympatec Heios device with Quixel wet dispersion. To prepare the sample, the sample to be examined was predispersed in isopropanol for a period of 3 minutes.
  • the substrate flakes can be constructed from any material that can be formed into flake form.
  • the substrate flakes can be of natural origin, but also produced synthetically.
  • Materials from which the substrate flakes can be constructed are, for example, metals and metal alloys, metal oxides, preferably aluminum oxide, inorganic compounds and minerals such as mica and (semi)precious stones, and plastics.
  • the substrate flakes are preferably constructed from metal (alloys).
  • metal suitable for metallic luster pigments can be used as the metal.
  • metals include iron and steel, as well as all air and water-resistant (semi)metals such as platinum, zinc, chromium, molybdenum and silicon, and their alloys such as aluminum bronze and brass.
  • Preferred metals are aluminum, copper, silver and gold.
  • Preferred substrate flakes are aluminum flakes and brass flakes, with aluminum substrate flakes being particularly preferred.
  • Lamellar substrate platelets are characterized by an irregularly structured edge and are also referred to as "cornflakes" because of their appearance.
  • pigments based on lamellar substrate flakes Due to their irregular structure, pigments based on lamellar substrate flakes generate a high proportion of scattered light.
  • the pigments based on lamellar substrate platelets do not cover the existing color of a keratin material completely and, for example, effects analogous to a natural graying can be achieved.
  • Vacuum metallized pigments can be obtained, for example, by releasing metals, metal alloys or metal oxides from appropriately coated foils. They are distinguished by a particularly low thickness of the substrate flakes in the range from 5 to 50 nm and by a particularly smooth surface with increased reflectivity.
  • substrate flakes which comprise a pigment metallized in a vacuum are also referred to as VMP substrate flakes.
  • Aluminum VMP substrate flakes can be obtained, for example, by releasing aluminum from metallized foils.
  • the substrate flakes made of metal or metal alloy can be passivated, for example by anodizing (oxide layer) or chromating.
  • Uncoated lamellar, lenticular and/or VPM substrate flakes in particular those made of metal or metal alloy, reflect the incident light to a large extent and produce a light-dark flop but no color impression.
  • a color impression can be generated, for example, due to optical interference effects.
  • Such pigments can be based on substrate flakes coated at least once. These show interference effects due to the superimposition of differently refracted and reflected light beams.
  • preferred pigments are pigments based on a coated lamellar substrate platelet.
  • the substrate flake preferably has at least one coating B made of a high-index metal oxide with a coating thickness of at least 50 nm. There is preferably another coating A between the coating B and the surface of the small substrate.
  • Suitable materials for the coatings A, B and C are all substances which can be applied in the form of a film and permanently to the substrate flakes and, in the case of layers A and B, have the required optical properties.
  • General is a coating of a part of the surface of the substrate flakes is sufficient to obtain a pigment with a glossy effect.
  • only the upper and/or lower side of the substrate flakes can be coated, with the side surface(s) being omitted.
  • the entire surface of the optionally passivated substrate flakes, including the side surfaces, is preferably covered by coating B.
  • the substrate flakes are thus completely encased by coating B. This improves the optical properties of the pigment and increases the mechanical and chemical resilience of the pigments.
  • the above also applies to layer A and preferably also to layer C, if present.
  • the coated substrate flakes preferably have only one coating A, B and, if present, C each.
  • the coating B is made up of at least one metal oxide with a high refractive index. Materials with a high refractive index have a refractive index of at least 1.9, preferably at least 2.0 and particularly preferably at least 2.4.
  • the coating B preferably comprises at least 95% by weight, particularly preferably at least 99% by weight, of high-index metal oxide(s).
  • the coating B has a thickness of at least 50 nm.
  • the thickness of coating B is preferably no more than 400 nm, particularly preferably at most 300 nm.
  • High-index metal oxides suitable for coating B are preferably selectively light-absorbing (ie colored) metal oxides, such as iron(III) oxide ( ⁇ - and ⁇ -Fe2O3, red), cobalt(II) oxide (blue), chromium(III) oxide (green ), titanium(III) oxide (blue, is usually present in a mixture with titanium oxynitrides and titanium nitrides) and vanadium(V) oxide (orange) and mixtures thereof. Colorless, high-index oxides such as titanium dioxide and/or zirconium oxide are also suitable.
  • ie colored metal oxides such as iron(III) oxide ( ⁇ - and ⁇ -Fe2O3, red), cobalt(II) oxide (blue), chromium(III) oxide (green ), titanium(III) oxide (blue, is usually present in a mixture with titanium oxynitrides and titanium nitrides) and vanadium(V) oxide (orange) and mixtures thereof.
  • Coating B can contain a selectively absorbing dye, preferably 0.001 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01 to 1% by weight, based in each case on the total amount of coating B. Suitable organic and inorganic dyes are stable in have a metal oxide coating installed.
  • the coating A preferably has at least one metal oxide and/or metal oxide hydrate with a low refractive index.
  • Coating A preferably comprises at least 95% by weight, particularly preferably at least 99% by weight, of low-index metal oxide (hydrate).
  • Materials with low refractive index have a refractive index of at most 1.8, preferably at most 1.6.
  • the low-index metal oxides suitable for coating A include, for example, silicon (di)oxide, silicon oxide hydrate, aluminum oxide, aluminum oxide hydrate, boron oxide, germanium oxide, manganese oxide, magnesium oxide and mixtures thereof, silicon dioxide being preferred.
  • the coating A preferably has a thickness of 1 to 100 nm, particularly preferably 5 to 50 nm, particularly preferably 5 to 20 nm.
  • the distance between the surface of the substrate flakes and the inner surface of coating B is preferably at most 100 nm, particularly preferably at most 50 nm, particularly preferably at most 20 nm.
  • the pigment based on a lamellar substrate platelet has only one layer A, it is preferred that the pigment has a lamellar substrate platelet made of aluminum and a layer A made of silicon dioxide. If the pigment based on a lamellar substrate flake has a layer A and a layer B, it is preferred that the pigment has a lamellar substrate flake made of aluminum, a layer A made of silicon dioxide and a layer B made of iron oxide.
  • the pigments have a further coating C of a metal oxide (hydrate) which is different from the underlying coating B on.
  • a metal oxide hydrate
  • suitable metal oxides are silicon(di)oxide, silicon oxide hydrate, aluminum oxide, aluminum oxide hydrate, zinc oxide, tin oxide, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, iron(III) oxide and chromium(III) oxide. Silicon dioxide is preferred.
  • the coating C preferably has a thickness of 10 to 500 nm, particularly preferably 50 to 300 nm.
  • Layers A and C are used in particular as protection against corrosion and also for chemical and physical stabilization.
  • Layers A and C particularly preferably contain silicon dioxide or aluminum oxide, which are applied by the sol-gel method.
  • This method comprises dispersing the uncoated lamellar substrate flakes or the lamellar substrate flakes already coated with layer A and/or layer B in a solution of a metal alkoxide such as tetraethyl orthosilicate or aluminum triisopropoxide (usually in a solution of organic solvent or a mixture of organic solvent and water with at least 50% by weight organic solvent such as a C1 to C4 alcohol), and Addition of a weak base or acid to hydrolyze the metal alkoxide, creating a film of the metal oxide on the surface of the (coated) substrate flakes.
  • a metal alkoxide such as tetraethyl orthosilicate or aluminum triisopropoxide
  • Layer B can be produced, for example, by hydrolytic decomposition of one or more organic metal compounds and/or by precipitation of one or more dissolved metal salts and, if appropriate, subsequent post-treatment (for example converting a hydroxide-containing layer formed into the oxide layer by tempering).
  • each of the coatings A, B and/or C may be composed of a mixture of two or more metal oxide (hydrate)s, each of the coatings is preferably composed of one metal oxide (hydrate).
  • the pigments based on coated lamellar or lenticular substrate flakes or the pigments based on coated VMP substrate flakes preferably have a thickness of 70 to 500 nm, particularly preferably 100 to 400 nm, particularly preferably 150 to 320 nm, for example 180 to 290 nm, on. Due to the small thickness of the substrate flakes, the pigment has a particularly high hiding power.
  • the small thickness of the coated substrate flakes is achieved in particular by the fact that the thickness of the uncoated substrate flakes is small, but also by the fact that the thicknesses of the coatings A and, if present, C are set to the smallest possible value.
  • the thickness of coating B determines the color impression of the pigment.
  • the adhesion and abrasion resistance of pigments based on coated substrate plates in the keratin material can be significantly increased by modifying the outermost layer, layer A, B or C depending on the structure, with additional organic compounds such as silanes, phosphoric acid esters, titanates, borates or carboxylic acids will.
  • the organic compounds are bound to the surface of the outermost layer A, B or C, which preferably contains metal oxide.
  • the outermost layer refers to the layer that is spatially furthest away from the lamellar substrate plate.
  • the organic compounds are preferably functional silane compounds which can bond to the layer A, B or C containing metal oxide. These can be either monofunctional or bifunctional compounds.
  • bifunctional organic compounds are methacryloxypropenyltrimethoxysilane, 3-methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, 3-acryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, 2-acryloxyethyltrimethoxysilane, 3-methacryloxypropyltriethoxysilane, 3-acryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, 2-methacryloxyethyltriethoxysilane, 2-acryloxyethyltriethoxysilane, 3-methacryloxypropyltris(methoxy-yethoxy) 3-methacryloxypropyltris(butoxyethoxy)silane, 3-methacryloxypropyltris(propoxy)silane, 3-methacryloxypropyltris(butoxy)silane, 3-acryloxypropyltris(methoxyethoxy)silane, 3-acryloxypropyltris(butoxyethoxy)silane, 3-acryloxypropyltris(me
  • a modification with a monofunctional silane in particular an alkyl silane or aryl silane, can take place.
  • This has only one functional group which can bond covalently to the surface of pigment based on coated lamellar substrate flakes (ie to the outermost layer containing metal oxide) or, if the coverage is not quite complete, to the metal surface.
  • the hydrocarbon residue of the silane points away from the pigment.
  • a different degree of hydrophobicization of the pigment is achieved. Examples of such silanes are hexadecyltrimethoxysilane, propyltrimethoxysilane, etc.
  • Pigments based on silicon dioxide-coated aluminum substrate flakes are particularly preferably surface-modified with a monofunctional silane. Octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, hecadecyltrimethoxysilane and hecadecyltriethoxysilane are particularly preferred.
  • the changed surface properties / water repellency can improve adhesion, abrasion resistance and orientation in the application.
  • Suitable pigments based on a lamellar substrate flake include, for example, the pigments from Eckart's VISIONAIRE series.
  • Pigments based on a lenticular substrate flake are available, for example, under the name Alegrace® Spotify from Schlenk Metallic Pigments GmbH.
  • Pigments based on a substrate flake which comprises a vacuum-metallized pigment
  • a substrate flake which comprises a vacuum-metallized pigment
  • Alegrace® Marvelous or Alegrace® Aurous from Schlenk Metallic Pigments GmbH are available, for example, under the name Alegrace® Marvelous or Alegrace® Aurous from Schlenk Metallic Pigments GmbH.
  • a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (C) - based on the total weight of the agent (C) - contains one or more pigments in a total of 0.001 to 20 wt %, in particular from 0.05 to 5% by weight.
  • compositions according to the invention can also contain one or more direct dyes as coloring compounds.
  • Direct dyes are dyes that are applied directly to the hair and do not require an oxidative process to develop the color.
  • Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes or indophenols.
  • the substantive dyes for the purposes of the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25° C. of more than 0.5 g/l and are therefore not to be regarded as pigments.
  • the substantive dyes for the purposes of the present invention preferably have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25° C. of more than 1.0 g/l.
  • the substantive dyes for the purposes of the present invention particularly preferably have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25° C. of more than 1.5 g/l.
  • Direct dyes can be divided into anionic, cationic and nonionic direct dyes.
  • a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) according to the invention is characterized in that agent (C) contains at least one anionic, cationic and/or nonionic direct dye.
  • Suitable cationic direct dyes are Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 16, Basic Blue 347 (Cationic Blue 347/Dystar), HC Blue no. 16, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31, Basic Red 51, Basic Red 76
  • nonionic direct dyes which can be used are nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes.
  • Suitable nonionic substantive dyes are those under the international designations or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3 , HC Red 10, HC Red 1 1 , HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11 , HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 1 , Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 known Compounds, as well as 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4-(2-hydroxyethyl) -aminophenol, 2-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4-[(2-hydroxyeth
  • Anionic direct dyes are also referred to as acid dyes.
  • Acid dyes are understood as meaning direct dyes which have at least one carboxylic acid group (—COOH) and/or one sulfonic acid group (—SO 3 H).
  • —COOH carboxylic acid group
  • —SO 3 H sulfonic acid group
  • the protonated forms (-COOH, -SO 3 H) of the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups are in equilibrium with their deprotonated forms (-COO-, -SO 3 before).
  • the proportion of profaned forms increases.
  • Acid dyes according to the invention can also be used in the form of their sodium salts and/or their potassium salts.
  • the acid dyes for the purposes of the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25° C. of more than 0.5 g/l and are therefore not to be regarded as pigments.
  • the acid dyes for the purposes of the present invention preferably have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25° C. of more than 1.0 g/l.
  • alkaline earth metal salts such as, for example, calcium salts and magnesium salts
  • aluminum salts of acid dyes often have poorer solubility than the corresponding alkali metal salts. If the solubility of these salts is below 0.5 g/L (25 °C, 760 mmHg), they do not fall under the definition of a substantive dye.
  • An essential feature of acid dyes is their ability to form anionic charges, with the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups responsible for this usually being linked to different chromophoric systems.
  • Suitable chromophoric systems are found, for example, in the structures of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, triarylmethane dyes, xanthene dyes, rhodamine dyes, oxazine dyes and/or indophenol dyes.
  • Acid Yellow 1 (D&C Yellow 7, Citronin A, Ext. D&C Yellow No. 7, Japan Yellow 403, CI 10316, COLIPA n° B001), Acid Yellow 3 (COLIPA n° : C 54, D&C Yellow N° 10, Quinoline Yellow, E104, Food Yellow 13), Acid Yellow 9 (CI 13015), Acid Yellow 17 (CI 18965), Acid Yellow 23 (COLIPA n° C 29, Covacap Jaune W 1100 (LCW), Sicovit Tartrazine 85 E 102 (BASF), Tartrazine, Food Yellow 4, Japan Yellow 4, FD&C Yellow No.
  • Acid Yellow 1 (D&C Yellow 7, Citronin A, Ext. D&C Yellow No. 7, Japan Yellow 403, CI 10316, COLIPA n° B001), Acid Yellow 3 (COLIPA n° : C 54, D&C Yellow N° 10, Quinoline Yellow, E104, Food Yellow 13), Acid Yellow 9 (CI 13015), Acid Yellow 17 (CI 18965), Acid Yellow 23 (COLIPA n° C 29, Co
  • Acid Yellow 36 (CI 13065), Acid Yellow 121 (CI 18690), Acid Orange 6 (CI 14270), Acid Orange 7 (2-Naphthol orange, Orange II, CI 15510, D&C Orange 4, COLIPA n° C015), Acid Orange 10 (Cl 16230; Orange G sodium salt), Acid Orange 11 (Cl 45370), Acid Orange 15 (Cl 50120), Acid Orange 20 (Cl 14600), Acid Orange 24 (BROWN 1 ;CI 20170;KATSU201 ;nosodium salt;Brown No.201 ;RESORCIN BROWN;ACID ORANGE 24;Japan Brown 201 ;D & C Brown No.1), Acid Red 14 (Cl14720), Acid Red 18 (E124, Red 18; Cl 16255), Acid Red 27 (E 123, Cl 16185, C-Red 46, Fast Red D, FD&C Red No.2, Food Red 9, Naphthol Red S), Acid Red 33 (Red 33, Fuchsia Red, D&C Red 33,
  • Acid Green 50 (Brilliant Acid Green BS, Cl 44090, Acid Brilliant Green BS, E 142), Acid Black 1 (Black n° 401, Naphthalene Black 10B, Amido Black 10B, Cl 20 470, COLIPA n° B15 ), Acid Black 52 (Cl 1571 1), Food Yellow 8 (Cl 14270), Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 11 , D&C Red 21 , D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33 , D&C Violet 2 and/or D&C Brown 1 .
  • the water solubility of the anionic direct dyes can be determined, for example, in the following way. 0.1 g of the anionic direct dye are placed in a beaker. A stir bar is added. Then 100 ml of water are added. This mixture is heated to 25°C on a magnetic stirrer with stirring. Stir for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then assessed visually. If there are still undissolved residues, the amount of water is increased - for example in steps of 10 ml. Water is added until the amount of dye used has completely dissolved. If the dye-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high intensity of the dye, the mixture is filtered. If a proportion of undissolved dyes remains on the filter paper, the solubility test is repeated with a larger amount of water. If 0.1 g of the anionic direct dye dissolves in 100 ml of water at 25° C., the solubility of the dye is 1.0 g/L.
  • Acid Yellow 1 is named 8-Hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt and has a solubility in water of at least 40 g/L (25°C).
  • Acid Yellow 3 is a mixture of the sodium salts of mono- and sulfonic acids of 2-(2-quinolyl)-1H-indene-1,3(2H)-dione and has a water solubility of 20 g/L (25 °C) .
  • Acid Yellow 9 is the disodium salt of 8-hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid, its water solubility is above 40 g/L (25 °C).
  • Acid Yellow 23 is the trisodium salt of 4,5-dihydro-5-oxo-1-(4-sulfophenyl)-4-((4-sulfophenyl)azo)-1 H-pyrazole-3-carboxylic acid and is good at 25°C soluble in water.
  • Acid Orange 7 is the sodium salt of 4-[(2-hydroxy-1-naphthyl)azo]benzenesulfonate. Its water solubility is more than 7 g/L (25 °C).
  • Acid Red 18 is the trisodium salt of 7-hydroxy-8-[(E)-(4-sulfonato-1-naphthyl)-diazenyl)]-1,3-naphthalenedisulfonate and has a very high water solubility of more than 20% by weight. %.
  • Acid Red 33 is the diantrium salt of 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3-(phenylazo)-naphthalene-2,7-disulphonate, its water solubility is 2.5 g/L (25 °C).
  • Acid Red 92 is the disodium salt of 3,4,5,6-tetrachloro-2-(1,4,5,8-tetrabromo-6-hydroxy-3-oxoxanthen-9-yl)benzoic acid, its water solubility specified as greater than 10 g/L (25 °C).
  • Acid Blue 9 is the disodium salt of 2-( ⁇ 4-[N-ethyl(3-sulfonatobenzyl)amino]phenyl ⁇ 4-[(N-ethyl(3-sulfonatobenzyl)imino]-2,5-cyclohexadien-1- ylidene ⁇ methyl)-benzenesulfonate and has a water solubility of more than 20% by weight (25 °C).
  • thermochromic dyes can also be used.
  • Thermochromism is the property of a material to reversibly or irreversibly change color as a function of temperature. This can be done by changing the intensity and/or the wavelength maximum.
  • Photochromism includes the property of a material to reversibly or irreversibly change its color as a function of exposure to light, particularly UV light. This can be done by changing the intensity and/or the wavelength maximum.
  • Agent (C) preferably contains - based on the total weight of agent (C) - one or more coloring compounds in a total amount of 0.01 to 20.0% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 15.0% by weight. -%, more preferably from 0.2 to 10.0% by weight and most preferably from 0.3 to 5.0% by weight. film-forming polymers on average (D)
  • the multi-component packaging unit according to the invention can comprise a further separately packaged agent (D) which contains at least one film-forming polymer.
  • Polymers are understood to be macromolecules with a molecular weight of at least 1000 g/mol, preferably at least 2500 g/mol, particularly preferably at least 5000 g/mol, which consist of identical, repeating organic units.
  • the polymers of the present invention can be synthetically produced polymers produced by the polymerization of one type of monomer or by the polymerization of different types of monomers which are structurally different from one another. If the polymer is made by polymerizing one type of monomer, it is called a homo-polymer. If structurally different types of monomers are used in the polymerization, the resulting polymer is referred to as a copolymer.
  • the maximum molecular weight of the polymer depends on the degree of polymerization (number of polymerized monomers) and the batch size and is also determined by the polymerization method. For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferred if the maximum molecular weight of the film-forming, hydrophobic polymer (c) is not more than 10 7 g/mol, preferably not more than 10 6 g/mol and particularly preferably not more than 10 5 g / mole.
  • a film-forming polymer is a polymer which is able to form a film on a substrate, for example on a keratin material or a keratin fiber. The formation of a film can be demonstrated, for example, by examining the keratin material treated with the polymer under a microscope.
  • the film-forming polymers can be hydrophilic or hydrophobic.
  • a hydrophobic polymer is understood to mean a polymer that has a solubility in water at 25° C. (760 mmHg) of less than 1% by weight.
  • the water solubility of the film-forming hydrophobic polymer can be determined, for example, in the following way. 1.0 g of the polymer is placed in a beaker. Water is made up to 100 g. A stir bar is added and the mixture is warmed to 25°C on a magnetic stirrer with stirring. Stir for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then assessed visually. If the polymer-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to a high level of turbidity in the mixture, the mixture is filtered. If some undissolved polymer remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the polymer is less than 1% by weight.
  • Particularly suitable film-forming, hydrophobic polymers are, for example, polymers from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers or methacrylic acid amide copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, vinyl alcohol copolymers, vinyl acetate copolymers, ethylene homopolymers or copolymers, propylene homopolymers or copolymers, styrene homopolymers or copolymers, polyurethanes, polyesters and/or or the polyamides.
  • an agent (D) according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one film-forming, hydrophobic polymer that is selected from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid amides , vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, vinyl alcohol copolymers, vinyl acetate copolymers, ethylene homopolymers or copolymers, propylene homopolymers or copolymers, styrene homopolymers or copolymers, polyurethanes, polyesters and/or polyamides.
  • the film-forming hydrophobic polymers selected from the group of synthetic polymers, polymers obtainable by free-radical polymerization or natural polymers have proven to be particularly suitable for solving the problem of the invention.
  • film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homopolymers or copolymers of olefins, such as cycloolefins, butadiene, isoprene or styrene, vinyl ethers, vinyl amides, the esters or amides of (meth)acrylic acid having at least one C 1 -C 20 - Alkyl group, an aryl group or a C 2 -C 10 - hydroxyalkyl group.
  • olefins such as cycloolefins, butadiene, isoprene or styrene
  • vinyl ethers vinyl amides
  • esters or amides of (meth)acrylic acid having at least one C 1 -C 20 - Alkyl group, an aryl group or a C 2 -C 10 - hydroxyalkyl group.
  • film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homo- or copolymers of isooctyl (meth)acrylate; isononyl (meth)acrylate; 2-ethylhexyl (meth)acrylate; lauryl (meth)acrylate); isopentyl (meth)acrylate; n-butyl (meth)acrylate); isobutyl (meth)acrylate; ethyl (meth)acrylate; methyl (meth)acrylate; tert-butyl (meth)acrylate; stearyl (meth)acrylate; hydroxyethyl (meth)acrylate; 2-hydroxypropyl (methacrylate; 3-hydroxypropyl (meth)acrylate and/or mixtures thereof.
  • film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homo- or copolymers of (meth)acrylamide; N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular those with C2-C18 alkyl groups, such as N-ethyl acrylamide, N-tert-butyl acrylamide, le N-octyl-acrylamide; N -Di(C1-C4)alkyl(meth)acrylamide.
  • anionic copolymers are, for example, copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their C 1 -C 6 -alkyl esters, such as are sold under the INCI declaration Acrylates Copolymers.
  • a suitable commercial product is, for example, Aculyn® 33 from Rohm & Haas.
  • preference is also given to copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their C 1 -C 6 -alkyl esters and the esters of an ethylenically unsaturated acid and an alkoxylated fatty alcohol.
  • Suitable ethylenically unsaturated acids are, in particular, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and itaconic acid; suitable alkoxylated fatty alcohols are, in particular, steareth-20 or ceteth-20.
  • Very particularly preferred polymers on the market are, for example, Aculyn® 22 (acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer), Aculyn®28 (acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer), Structure 2001® (acrylates/steareth-20 itaconate).
  • Suitable polymers based on vinyl monomers are the homo- and copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, of vinylcaprolactam, of vinyl(C1-C6)alkylpyrrole, of vinyloxazole, of vinylthiazole, of vinylpyrimidine, of vinylimidazole.
  • copolymers octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers such as those sold commercially by NATIONAL STARCH under the trade names AMPHOMER® or LOVOCRYL® 47, or the copolymers of acrylates/octylacrylamide under the trade names DERMACRYL® LT and DERMACRYL® 79 are sold by NATIONAL STARCH.
  • Suitable polymers based on olefins are the homo- and copolymers of ethylene, propylene, butene, isoprene and butadiene.
  • the film-forming hydrophobic polymers used can be block copolymers which comprise at least one block of styrene or the derivatives of styrene.
  • These block copolymers can be copolymers which, in addition to a styrene block, contain one or more other blocks, such as styrene/ethylene, styrene/ethylene/butylene, styrene/butylene, styrene/isoprene, styrene/butadiene.
  • Corresponding polymers are sold commercially by BASF under the trade name “Luvitol HSB”.
  • agent (D) contained at least one film-forming polymer selected from the group consisting of homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid, homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid -esters, homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, homopolymers and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl alcohol, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl acetate, Homopolymers and copolymers of ethylene, the Propylene homopolymers and copolymers, styrene homopolymers and copolymers, polyurethanes, polyesters and polyamides.
  • film-forming polymer selected from the group consisting of homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid, homopolymers and
  • a hydrophilic polymer is understood as meaning a polymer that has a solubility in water at 25° C. (760 mmHg) of more than 1% by weight, preferably more than 2% by weight.
  • the water solubility of the film-forming hydrophilic polymer can be determined, for example, in the following way. 1.0 g of the polymer is placed in a beaker. Water is made up to 100 g. A stir bar is added and the mixture is warmed to 25°C on a magnetic stirrer with stirring. Stir for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then assessed visually. A completely dissolved polymer appears macroscopically homogeneous. If the polymer-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to a high level of turbidity in the mixture, the mixture is filtered. If no undissolved polymer remains on the filter paper, then the solubility of the polymer is greater than 1% by weight.
  • Nonionic, anionic and cationic polymers can be used as film-forming, hydrophilic polymers.
  • Suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers can, for example, from the group of polyvinylpyrrolidone (co)polymers, polyvinyl alcohol (co)polymers, vinyl acetate (co)polymers, carboxyvinyl (co)polymers, acrylic acid (co) Polymers, methacrylic acid (co)polymers, natural gums, polysaccharides and/or acrylamide (co)polymers.
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • copolymer containing vinylpyrrolidone a copolymer containing vinylpyrrolidone
  • an agent (D) according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one film-forming, hydrophilic polymer which is selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and the copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone.
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • the agent (D) according to the invention contains polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) as the film-forming, hydrophilic polymer.
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • Particularly suitable polyvinylpyrrolidones are available, for example, under the name Luviskol® K from BASF SE, in particular Luviskol® K 90 or Luviskol® K 85 from BASF SE.
  • the polymer PVP K30 which is marketed by Ashland (ISP, POI Chemical), can also be used as a further polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) that is explicitly very particularly well suited.
  • PVP K 30 is a polyvinylpyrrolidone that is very soluble in cold water and has the CAS number 9003-39-8. The molecular weight of PVP K 30 is around 40000 g/mol.
  • polyvinylpyrrolidones are the substances known under the trade names LUVITEC K 17, LUVITEC K 30, LUVITEC K 60, LUVITEC K 80, LUVITEC K 85, LUVITEC K 90 and LUVITEC K 115 and are available from BASF.
  • film-forming hydrophilic polymers from the group of polyvinylpyrrolidone copolymers has also led to particularly good and washfast color results.
  • Particularly suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers in this context are vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl ester copolymers, such as those sold under the trademark Luviskol® (BASF).
  • Luviskol® VA 64 and Luviskol® VA 73, each vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, are particularly preferred nonionic polymers.
  • styrene/VP copolymer and/or a vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymer and/or a VP/DMAPA acrylate copolymer and/or a VP/vinyl caprolactam/DMAPA acrylate copolymer are very particularly preferably used in the cosmetic compositions .
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers are marketed by BASF SE under the name Luviskol® VA.
  • a VP/vinyl caprolactam/DMAPA acrylates copolymer is sold by Ashland Inc. under the tradename Aquaflex® SF-40.
  • a VP/DMAPA acrylates copolymer sold by Ashland under the name Styleze CC-10 is a highly preferred vinylpyrrolidone-containing copolymer.
  • copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone are the copolymers obtained by reacting N-vinylpyrrolidone with at least one other monomer from the group consisting of V-vinylformamide, vinyl acetate, ethylene, propylene, acrylamide, vinylcaprolactam, vinylcaprolactone and/or vinyl alcohol .
  • an agent (D) according to the invention is characterized in that it contains at least one film-forming, hydrophilic polymer selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/styrene copolymers , vinylpyrrolidone/ethylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/propylene copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/vinylcaprolactam copolymers,
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers vinylpyrrolidone/styrene copolymers
  • vinylpyrrolidone/ethylene copolymers vinylpyrrolidone/propylene copolymers
  • vinylpyrrolidone/vinylcaprolactam copolymers vinylpyrrolidone/vinylcaprolactam copolymers
  • Another suitable copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone is the polymer known under the INCI name maltodextrin/VP copolymer.
  • the agent (D) contains at least one nonionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer.
  • a nonionic polymer is understood to mean a polymer which, under standard conditions, in a protic solvent--such as water, for example--does not carry any structural units with permanently cationic or anionic groups which have to be compensated for by counterions while maintaining electroneutrality.
  • Cationic groups include, for example, quaternized ammonium groups, but not protonated amines.
  • Anionic groups include, for example, carboxyl and sulfonic acid groups.
  • agents which contain at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of as the nonionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer
  • copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are used, it is preferred if the molar ratio of the structural units from the monomer N-vinylpyrrolidone to the structural units of the polymer from the monomer vinyl acetate is in the range from 20:80 to 80:20, in particular from 30 to 70 to 60 to 40.
  • Suitable copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are available, for example, under the trade names Luviskol® VA 37, Luviskol® VA 55, Luviskol® VA 64 and Luviskol® VA 73 from BASF SE.
  • Another particularly preferred polymer is selected from the polymers with the INCI designation VP/methacrylamide/vinyl imidazole copolymer, which are available, for example, under the trade name Luviset Clear from BASF SE.
  • Another very particularly preferred nonionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer is a copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N,N-dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide, which, for example, has the INCI designation VP/DMAPA Acrylates Copolymer, for example B. is sold under the trade name Styleze®CC 10 by the company ISP.
  • a cationic polymer according to the invention is the copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide and 3-(methacryloylamino)propyl-lauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-69), which is, for example, under the Trade name AquaStyle® 300 (28-32% by weight of active substance in an ethanol-water mixture, molecular weight 350,000) is sold by ISP.
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers such as those offered under the names Luviquat® FC 370, FC 550 and the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 as well as FC 905 and HM 552,
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers as are commercially available with acrylic acid esters and acrylic acid amides as the third monomer building block, for example under the name Aquaflex® SF 40.
  • Polyquaternium-11 is the reaction product of diethyl sulfate with a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate.
  • Suitable commercial products are available, for example, under the names Dehyquart® CC 11 and Luviquat® PQ 11 PN from BASF SE or Gafquat 440, Gafquat 734, Gafquat 755 or Gafquat 755N from Ashland Inc.
  • Polyquaternium-46 is the reaction product of vinylcaprolactam and vinylpyrrolidone with methylvinylimidazolium methosulfate and is available, for example, under the name Luviquat® Hold from BASF SE. Polyquaternium-46 is preferably used in an amount of 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. It is most preferred that Polyquaternium-46 is used in combination with a cationic guar compound. In fact, it is highly preferred that Polyquaternium-46 is used in combination with a cationic guar compound and Polyquaternium-11.
  • anionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymers examples include acrylic acid polymers, which can be present in uncrosslinked or crosslinked form.
  • Corresponding products are sold, for example, under the trade names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by Lubrizol or also under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by 3V Sigma (The Sun Chemicals, Inter Harz).
  • Suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the group of natural gums are xanthan gum, gellan gum and carob gum.
  • Suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the group of polysaccharides are hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose.
  • suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the group of acrylamides are polymers which are prepared from monomers of (methyl)acrylamido-C1-C4-alkylsulfonic acid or the salts thereof.
  • Corresponding polymers can be selected from the polymers of polyacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, polyacrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, polyacrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, poly2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, poly-2-methylacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and/or poly-2-methylacrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid.
  • Preferred polymers of poly(meth)arylamido-C1-C4-alkylsulfonic acids are crosslinked and at least 90% neutralized. These polymers can be crosslinked or uncrosslinked.
  • Crosslinked and completely or partially neutralized polymers of the poly-2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid type are known by the INCI names "ammonium polyacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate” or "ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide”.
  • Another preferred polymer of this type is the crosslinked poly-2-acrylamido-2methyl-propanesulphonic acid polymer sold by Clamant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS, which is partially neutralized with ammonia.
  • the agent (D) contains at least one anionic, film-forming polymer.
  • agent (D) contains at least one film-forming polymer which comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (PI) and at least one structural unit of the formula (P-II).
  • M is a hydrogen atom or ammonium (NH 4 ), sodium, potassium, 1 ⁇ 2 magnesium or 1 ⁇ 2 calcium.
  • the structural unit of formula (P-I) is based on the sodium salt of acrylic acid.
  • the structural unit of formula (P-I) is based on the potassium salt of acrylic acid.
  • the film-forming polymer or polymers according to the invention are preferably used in certain amount ranges on average (D).
  • D on average
  • the agent (D) - based on its total weight - one or more film-forming polymers in a total amount of 0.1 to 18.0 wt .-%, preferably from 1, 0 to 16 0.0% by weight, more preferably from 5.0 to 14.5% by weight and very particularly preferably from 8.0 to 12.0% by weight.
  • Another subject of the present application is a method for dyeing keratinic material, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps
  • composition (C) wherein the composition (C) contains at least one pigment and/or one substantive dye
  • step (3) mixing the composition provided in step (1) with the agent (C) provided in step (2) to produce a ready-to-use colorant
  • step (1) of the method the cosmetic composition according to the invention is provided. This can be done, for example, in the form of a separately prepared blend or concentrate, which is preferably packed in an airtight manner.
  • the user or hairdresser can take the agent (C) in step (2) and mix it with the cosmetic composition in step (3).
  • the mixing in step (3) can take place, for example, by stirring or shaking. It is particularly advantageous to package the two preparations separately in two containers and then, before use, to transfer the entire amount of the cosmetic composition provided in step (1) from its container to the container in which the agent (C) is located. located.
  • the cosmetic composition and the agent (C) can be mixed with one another in different proportions.
  • the cosmetic composition is particularly preferably provided in step (1) in the form of a relatively highly concentrated, low-water silane blend, which is virtually diluted by mixing with agent (C). For this reason it is very particularly preferred to mix the cosmetic composition provided in step (1) with a weight excess of agent (C).
  • agent (C) For example, 1 part by weight of cosmetic composition (siloxane mixture) can be mixed with 20 parts by weight of agent (C), or 1 part by weight of cosmetic composition (siloxane mixture) is mixed with 10 parts by weight of agent (C), or 1 part by weight of cosmetic composition (siloxane mixture) is mixed with 5 parts by weight of agent (C).
  • step (4) of the method the ready-to-use agent prepared in step (3) is applied to the keratin material, in particular to human hair.
  • the application can be done with the help of the gloved hand or with the help of a brush, a spout or an applicator.
  • step (5) the applied agent is allowed to act in or on the keratin material. Exposure times of 30 seconds to 60 minutes, preferably 1 to 30 minutes, more preferably 1 to 20 minutes and very particularly preferably 1 to 10 minutes are suitable here.
  • step (6) the agent is rinsed off the keratin material or the hair. Rinsing is preferably done with tap water only.
  • an aftertreatment agent (agent (D)) can optionally be applied to the keratin material, left to act and then optionally rinsed out again.
  • an aftertreatment agent (agent (D)) can also be particularly preferred if the method for treating keratinic material is a coloring method in which a coloring compound is added in a subsequent step, such as, for example, in particular in Pigment to be applied to keratin materials.
  • the means (C) and (D) are preferably the means which have also been mentioned as being preferred or particularly preferred in the description of the kit-of-parts.
  • 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane has 3 hydrolyzable alkoxy groups per molecule
  • Methyltriethoxysilane (MTES) 0.269 mol
  • Methyltrimethoxysilane has 3 hydrolyzable alkoxy groups per molecule
  • 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane has 3 hydrolyzable alkoxy groups per molecule
  • Methyltrimethoxysilane has 3 hydrolyzable alkoxy groups per molecule
  • agent (A) 100 g of agent (A) were mixed with 44 g of agent (B). The mixture prepared in this way was filled in an airtight glass jar.
  • a ready-to-use colorant was first prepared.
  • 10 g of the previously prepared cosmetic composition was mixed with 100 g of agent (C) (shaking for 3 minutes).
  • a strand of hair (Kerling Euro natural hair white) was dipped into the ready-to-use colorant and left in it for 1 minute. Thereafter, excess agent was stripped from each strand of hair. Each strand of hair was then washed out with water and dried. The tresses were then evaluated visually under a daylight lamp. The strand of hair was dyed with a high color intensity bordeaux-red color.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique pour le traitement de matière kératinique, en particulier des cheveux humains, obtenue par mélange d'une première composition (A) avec une seconde composition (B), la première composition (A) étant obtenue par réaction d'un ou de plusieurs alcoxysilanes en C1-C6 organiques avec une quantité d'eau correspondant à la quantité molaire d'eau selon l'équation (G-1) X = [(ni(alcoxysilanes) x nii(groupes alcoxy)] / η(Η2O) (G-1) dans laquelle η(Η2O) est la quantité molaire (A) de l'eau utilisée dans la composition (A), ni est la quantité molaire des alcoxysilanes en C1-C6 organiques utilisés dans la composition (A), nii est le nombre de groupes alcoxy en C1-C6 par alcoxysilane en C1-C6 organique utilisé dans la composition (A) et X est un nombre de 3,0 à 100, et la seconde composition (B) est obtenue par réaction d'un ou de plusieurs alcoxysilanes en C1- C6 organiques avec une quantité d'eau correspondant à la quantité molaire d'eau selon l'équation (G-2) Y = [(na(alcoxysilanes) x nb(groupes alcoxy)] / m(Η2O) (G-2) dans laquelle m(Η2O) est la quantité molaire de l'eau utilisée dans la composition (B), na est la quantité molaire des alcoxysilanes en C1-C6 organiques utilisés dans la composition (B), nb est le nombre des groupes alcoxy en C1-C6 par alcoxysilane en C1-C6 organique utilisé dans la composition (B), et Y est un nombre de 0,1 à 2,9.
EP21734812.7A 2020-08-17 2021-06-21 Composition cosmétique obtenue en mélangeant deux mélanges de silanes Pending EP4196078A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102020210426.3A DE102020210426A1 (de) 2020-08-17 2020-08-17 Kosmetische Zusammensetzung, die durch das Vermischen von zwei Silan-Blends erhalten wird
PCT/EP2021/066760 WO2022037824A1 (fr) 2020-08-17 2021-06-21 Composition cosmétique obtenue en mélangeant deux mélanges de silanes

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EP4196078A1 true EP4196078A1 (fr) 2023-06-21

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EP21734812.7A Pending EP4196078A1 (fr) 2020-08-17 2021-06-21 Composition cosmétique obtenue en mélangeant deux mélanges de silanes

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US (1) US20240041741A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP4196078A1 (fr)
DE (1) DE102020210426A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2022037824A1 (fr)

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
ES2573052T3 (es) 2008-09-30 2016-06-03 L'oreal Composición cosmética integrada por un compuesto orgánico de silicio, -con al menos una función básica-, un polímero filmógeno hidrófobo, un pigmento y un solvente volátil
FR2964869B1 (fr) * 2010-09-20 2013-04-26 Oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant au moins un alkylalcoxysilane
FR2982155B1 (fr) 2011-11-09 2014-07-18 Oreal Composition cosmetique comprenant au moins un alcoxysilane
US10524999B2 (en) * 2015-12-14 2020-01-07 L'oreal Composition comprising a combination of particular alkoxysilanes and a fatty substance

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DE102020210426A1 (de) 2022-02-17
US20240041741A1 (en) 2024-02-08

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