EP3941432A1 - Procédé de coloration d'une matière kératinique consistant à utiliser un composé organique au silicium, un pigment à effet et un polymère filmogène ii - Google Patents

Procédé de coloration d'une matière kératinique consistant à utiliser un composé organique au silicium, un pigment à effet et un polymère filmogène ii

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Publication number
EP3941432A1
EP3941432A1 EP20711862.1A EP20711862A EP3941432A1 EP 3941432 A1 EP3941432 A1 EP 3941432A1 EP 20711862 A EP20711862 A EP 20711862A EP 3941432 A1 EP3941432 A1 EP 3941432A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
group
stands
agent
organic silicon
acid
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
EP20711862.1A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Torsten LECHNER
Gabriele Weser
Claudia Kolonko
Caroline KRIENER
Ulrike Schumacher
Marc NOWOTTNY
Juergen Schoepgens
Phillip Jaiser
Carsten MATHIASZYK
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Original Assignee
Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Henkel AG and Co KGaA filed Critical Henkel AG and Co KGaA
Publication of EP3941432A1 publication Critical patent/EP3941432A1/fr
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0254—Platelets; Flakes
    • A61K8/0258—Layered structure
    • A61K8/0266—Characterized by the sequence of layers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A61K8/8176—Homopolymers of N-vinyl-pyrrolidones. Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/413—Nanosized, i.e. having sizes below 100 nm
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes
    • A61K2800/436—Interference pigments, e.g. Iridescent, Pearlescent
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/884—Sequential application

Definitions

  • Oxidation colorants contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components, which, under the influence of oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, form the actual dyes with one another. Oxidation dyes are characterized by very long-lasting coloring results.
  • Silicon compound and the agent (b) contains at least one selected pigment (b1) and a film-forming polymer (b2).
  • agents (a) and (b) are applied to the keratinic material, in particular the human hair.
  • the two means (a) and (b) are different from each other.
  • the agent (a) particularly preferably contains at least one organic silicon compound selected from silanes having one, two or three silicon atoms.
  • Silicon compound also comprises one or more basic chemical functions and one or more hydroxyl groups or hydrolyzable groups per molecule.
  • the hydrolyzable group (s) is preferably a Ci-C6-alkoxy group, in particular an ethoxy group or a methoxy group. It is preferred if the hydrolyzable group is bonded directly to the silicon atom. If, for example, the hydrolyzable group is an ethoxy group, the organic silicon compound preferably contains a structural unit R'R "R"'Si-O-CH 2 -CH3. The radicals R ', R "and R"' represent the three remaining free valences of the silicon atom.
  • a method is characterized in that an agent (a) is used on the keratinous material or the human hair, the agent (a) at least one organic silicon compound (a) of the formula (I) and / or (II) contains,
  • R2 independently represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C6-alkyl group
  • - L stands for a linear or branched, divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group
  • R3 stands for a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C6-alkyl group
  • R5 ‘, R5“ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 alkyl group
  • R6 ‘and R6“ independently represent a Ci-C6-alkyl group
  • a ‘, A”, A “‘ and A ““ independently of one another represent a linear or branched, divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group
  • R7 and Re independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a Ci-C6-alkyl group, a hydroxy-Ci-C6-alkyl group, a C2-C6-alkenyl group, an amino-Ci-C6-alkyl group or a grouping of the formula (III ) stand
  • Ci-C6-alkyl group examples are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, s-butyl and t-butyl, n-pentyl and n-hexyl. Propyl, ethyl and methyl are preferred alkyl radicals.
  • Examples of a C2-C6-alkenyl group are vinyl, allyl, but-2-enyl, but-3-enyl and isobutenyl, preferred C2-C6-alkenyl radicals are vinyl and allyl.
  • a hydroxy-Ci-C6-alkyl group are a hydroxymethyl, a 2-hydroxyethyl, a 2-hydroxypropyl, a 3-hydroxypropyl, a 4-hydroxybutyl group, a 5-hydroxypentyl and a 6-hydroxyhexyl group; a 2-hydroxyethyl group is particularly preferred.
  • Examples of an amino-Ci-C6-alkyl group are the aminomethyl group, the 2-aminoethyl group and the 3-aminopropyl group. The 2-aminoethyl group is particularly preferred.
  • Examples of a linear divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group are, for example, the methylene group (-CH2-), the ethylene group (-CH2-CH2-), the propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-) and the butylene group (-CH2- CH2-CH2-CH2-).
  • the propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-) is particularly preferred.
  • divalent alkylene groups can also be branched. Examples of branched, divalent C3-C2o-alkylene groups are (-CFh-CF CFh) -) and (-CH2-CH (CH 3 ) -CH 2 -).
  • Ri R2N-L-Si OR3) a (R4) b (l)
  • the radicals Ri and R2 independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6-alkyl group.
  • the radicals Ri and R2 are very particularly preferably both a hydrogen atom.
  • the organic silicon compound In the middle part of the organic silicon compound is the structural unit or the linker -L- which stands for a linear or branched, divalent Ci-C2o-alkylene group.
  • L very particularly preferably represents a propylene group (- CH2-CH2-CH2-).
  • the radical R3 stands for a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C6-alkyl group
  • the radical R4 stands for a Ci-C6-alkyl group.
  • R3 and R4 are particularly preferably, independently of one another, a methyl group or an ethyl group.
  • a stands for an integer from 1 to 3, and b stands for the integer 3 - a. If a is 3, then b is 0. If a is 2, then b is 1. If a is 1, then b is 2.
  • the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (I) in which the radicals R3, R4 independently of one another represent a methyl group or an ethyl group.
  • the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (I) in which the radical a stands for the number 3. In this case, the remainder b stands for the number 0.
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (I),
  • R 3 independently of one another represent a methyl group or an ethyl group
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (I),
  • R2 both stand for a hydrogen atom
  • - L stands for a linear, divalent Ci-C6-alkylene group, preferably for a propylene group (-CH2- CH2-CH2-) or for an ethylene group (-CH2-CH2-),
  • R3 represents a hydrogen atom, an ethyl group or a methyl group
  • R4 stands for a methyl group or for an ethyl group
  • the method is accordingly characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (I),
  • Ci-C6 alkylene group preferably for a propylene group (-CH2-
  • R3 represents a hydrogen atom, an ethyl group or a methyl group
  • the process is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (I) selected from the group consisting of
  • (3-Aminopropyl) trimethoxysilane can be purchased from Sigma-Aldrich, for example. (3-Aminopropyl) triethoxysilane is also commercially available from Sigma-Aldrich.
  • the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (II)
  • organosilicon compounds of the formula (II) each have the silicon-containing groups (R50) c (R6) dSi- and -Si (R6 ') d' (OR5 ') c at their two ends
  • each of the radicals e, f, g and h can independently represent the number 0 or 1, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals e, f, g and h is different from 0.
  • Silicon compound of the formula (II) at least one group from the group consisting of - (A) - and - [NR7- (A ') j- and - [0- (A ”) j- and - [NR 8 - (A”' )] -
  • radicals R5, R5', R5 "independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C6- Alkyl group.
  • the radicals R6, R6 'and R6 ′′ stand independently of one another for a Ci-C6-alkyl group.
  • c stands for an integer from 1 to 3, and d stands for the integer 3 - c. If c is 3, then d is 0. If c is 2, d is 1. If c is 1, d is 2.
  • d‘ stands for the integer 3 - c ‘. If c ‘stands for the number 3, then d‘ equals 0. If c ‘stands for the number 2, then d‘ equals 1. If c ‘stands for the number 1, then d‘ equals 2.
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (II),
  • R5 and R5 ‘independently represent a methyl group or an ethyl group
  • radicals e, f, g and h can independently represent the number 0 or 1, at least one radical from e, f, g and h being different from zero.
  • the radicals A, A ', A “, A”' and A “” stand independently of one another for a linear or branched, divalent Ci-C 2 o-alkylene group.
  • the radicals A, A ', A “, A”' and A “” are preferably, independently of one another, a linear, divalent Ci-C 2 o-alkylene group.
  • the radicals A, A ', A ", A"' and A "" are more preferably, independently of one another, a linear divalent Ci-C6-alkylene group.
  • the radicals A, A ', A “, A”' and A “” are particularly preferably, independently of one another, a methylene group (-CH2-), an ethylene group (-CH2-CH2-), a propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2) -) or a butylene group (-CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -).
  • the radicals A, A ', A ", A"' and A "" are very particularly preferably a propylene group (-CH2-CH2-CH2-).
  • Silicon compound of formula (II) has a structural grouping - [NR7- (A ’)] -.
  • Silicon compound of formula (II) has a structural grouping - [NR8- (A ”’)] -.
  • radicals R7 and Rs are independently a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C6- alkyl group, a hydroxy-Ci-C6-alkyl group, a C 2 -C 6 alkenyl group, an amino-Ci-C6-alkyl group or a Grouping of formula (III)
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (II),
  • R7 represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group, a 2-hydroxyethyl group, a 2-alkenyl group, a 2-aminoethyl group or a grouping of the formula (III).
  • organic silicon compound (s) of the formula (IV) can also be referred to as silanes of the alkylalkoxysilane or alkylhydroxysilane type,
  • - Rio stands for a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C6-alkyl group
  • - R11 stands for a Ci-C6-alkyl group
  • the process is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one further organic silicon compound of the formula (IV) in addition to the organic silicon compound or compounds of the formula (I)
  • - Rio stands for a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C6-alkyl group
  • the process is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one further organic silicon compound of the formula (IV) in addition to the organic silicon compound or compounds of the formula (II)
  • Rg stands for a Ci-Ci8-alkyl group
  • the process is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one further organic silicon compound of the formula (IV) in addition to the organic silicon compound or compounds of the formula (I) and / or (II)
  • Rg stands for a Ci-Ci8-alkyl group
  • - Rio stands for a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C6-alkyl group
  • the radical Rn stands for a Ci-C6-alkyl group.
  • R11 particularly preferably represents a methyl group or an ethyl group.
  • the process is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (IV) which is selected from the group from
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least two structurally different organic silicon compounds.
  • the method is thereby
  • an agent (a) is applied to the keratinic material, which Contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (I) which is selected from the group consisting of (3-aminopropyl) triethoxysilane and (3-aminopropyl) trimethoxysilane, and additionally contains at least one organic silicon compound of the formula (IV) which is selected from the group consisting of methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, ethyltrimethoxysilane,
  • Ethyltriethoxysilane, hexyltrimethoxysilane and hexyltriethoxysilane is selected.
  • the agent (a) - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - is one or more organic
  • the agent (a) - based on the total weight of the agent (a) - has one or more organic silicon compounds of the formula (IV) in a total amount of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight and particularly preferably 2 to 8% by weight.
  • hydrolysis products and / or organic silicon compounds with at least one hydroxyl group can be in a
  • organosilicon compounds with at least one hydrolyzable group and their hydrolysis and / or condensation products can be contained in the agent (a).
  • organosilicon compounds with at least one hydroxyl group both the organic silicon compounds with at least one hydroxyl group and their
  • Condensation products may be contained in the agent (a).
  • a condensation product is understood to mean a product that is formed by the reaction of at least two organic silicon compounds each having at least one hydroxyl group or hydrolyzable group per molecule with elimination of water and / or with elimination of an alkanol.
  • the condensation products can be, for example, dimers, but also trimers or oligomers, the condensation products being in equilibrium with the monomers. Depending on the amount of water used or consumed in the hydrolysis, the equilibrium shifts from monomeric organic silicon compounds to condensation product. Particularly good results could be obtained if organic silicon compounds of the formula (I) and / or (II) were used in the process. Since, as already described above, hydrolysis / condensation starts even with traces of moisture, these are also
  • Embodiment includes.
  • the agent (a) preferably contains water and has a pH of from 7 to 11.5, preferably from 7.5 to 11 and particularly preferably from 8 to 10.5.
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (a) has a pH of 7 to 11.5, preferably from 7.5 to 11 and particularly preferably from 8 to 10.5.
  • the agent (b) is characterized by the presence of at least one coloring compound (b1) and at least one film-forming polymer (b2).
  • the coloring compound (b1) comprises at least one pigment based on a lenticular substrate plate.
  • the substrate platelets have an average thickness of at most 50 nm, preferably less than 30 nm, particularly preferably at most 25 nm, for example at most 20 nm.
  • the average thickness of the substrate platelets is at least 1 nm, preferably at least 2.5 nm, particularly preferably at least 5 nm, for example at least 10 nm.
  • Preferred ranges for the thickness of the substrate platelets are 2.5 to 50 nm, 5 to 50 nm, 10 to 50 nm; 2.5 to 30 nm, 5 to 30 nm, 10 to 30 nm; 2.5 to 25 nm, 5 to 25 nm, 10 to 25 nm, 2.5 to 20 nm, 5 to 20 nm and 10 to 20 nm.
  • Each substrate plate preferably has a thickness that is as uniform as possible.
  • the pigment is particularly thick
  • the substrate platelets are monolithic.
  • monolithic means consisting of a single closed unit without breaks, layers or inclusions, although changes in structure can occur within the substrate platelets.
  • the substrate platelets are preferably constructed homogeneously, i. E. that no concentration gradient occurs within the platelets.
  • the substrate platelets are not constructed in layers and have no particles or particles distributed therein.
  • the size of the substrate platelet can be matched to the particular application, in particular the desired effect on the keratinic material.
  • the substrate platelets have a mean largest diameter of about 2 to 200 ⁇ m, in particular about 5 to 100 ⁇ m.
  • the aspect ratio, expressed by the ratio of the mean size to the average thickness is at least 80, preferably at least 200, more preferably at least 500, particularly preferably more than 750.
  • the average size of the uncoated substrate platelets is the d50 value of the uncoated
  • Sample preparation the sample to be examined is predispersed in isopropanol for a period of 3 minutes.
  • the substrate platelets can be constructed from any material that can be brought into platelet form.
  • the substrate platelets can be of natural origin, but also synthetically produced.
  • Materials from which the substrate platelets can be constructed are, for example, metals and metal alloys, metal oxides, preferably aluminum oxide, inorganic compounds and minerals such as mica and (semi) precious stones, as well as plastics.
  • the substrate platelets are preferably made of
  • metals suitable for effect pigments can be considered as the metal.
  • metals include iron and steel, as well as all air and water-resistant (semi) metals such as platinum, zinc, chromium, molybdenum and silicon, and their alloys such as aluminum bronze and brass.
  • Preferred metals are aluminum, copper, silver and gold.
  • Preferred substrate platelets are aluminum platelets and brass platelets, with substrate platelets made of aluminum being particularly preferred.
  • the substrate platelets made of metal or metal alloy can be passivated, for example by anodizing (oxide layer) or chromating.
  • Uncoated lenticular substrate platelets in particular those made of metal or metal alloy, reflect the incident light to a high degree and produce a light-dark flop, but no color impression.
  • a color impression can be generated, for example, due to optical interference effects.
  • Such pigments can be based on at least once coated substrate platelets. These show interference effects due to the superposition of differently refracted and reflected light beams.
  • preferred pigments are pigments based on a coated lenticular substrate platelet.
  • the substrate platelet preferably has at least one coating B made of a high-index metal oxide with a coating thickness of at least 50 nm.
  • a further coating A is preferably located between the coating B and the surface of the substrate platelet.
  • another coating C which is different from the layer B below, is located on the layer B.
  • Suitable materials for the coatings A, B and C are all substances that can be applied permanently and in film form to the substrate platelets and, in the case of the layers A and B, have the required optical properties.
  • a coating of part of the surface of the substrate flakes is sufficient to obtain a pigment with a glossy effect.
  • only the upper and / or lower side of the substrate platelets can be coated, with the side surface (s) being cut out.
  • the entire surface of the optionally passivated substrate platelets, including the side surfaces, is preferably covered by coating B.
  • the substrate platelets are therefore completely encased by coating B. This improves the optical properties of the pigment and increases the mechanical and chemical resistance of the pigments.
  • the foregoing also applies to layer A and preferably also to layer C, if any.
  • the coated substrate platelets preferably each have only one coating A, B and, if present, C.
  • the coating B has a thickness of at least 50 nm.
  • the thickness of coating B is preferably not more than 400 nm, particularly preferably at most 300 nm.
  • metal oxides such as iron (III) oxide (a- and y-Fe 2 03, red), cobalt (II) oxide (blue), chromium (III) oxide (green), titanium (III) oxide (blue, is usually a mixture with titanium oxynitrides and titanium nitrides) and vanadium (V) oxide (orange) and their mixtures.
  • Colorless, high-index oxides such as titanium dioxide and / or zirconium oxide are also suitable.
  • Coating B can contain a selectively absorbing dye, preferably 0.001 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01 to 1% by weight, in each case based on the total amount of Coating B.
  • a selectively absorbing dye preferably 0.001 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01 to 1% by weight, in each case based on the total amount of Coating B.
  • Organic and inorganic dyes that can be stably incorporated into a metal oxide coating are suitable.
  • the coating A preferably has at least one low refractive index metal oxide and / or metal oxide hydrate.
  • Coating A preferably comprises at least 95% by weight, particularly preferably at least 99% by weight, of low refractive index metal oxide (hydrate), based in each case on the total amount of coating A.
  • Low refractive index materials have a refractive index of at most 1.8, preferably at most 1.6 on.
  • the low refractive index metal oxides which are suitable for coating A include
  • the coating A preferably has a thickness of 1 to 100 nm, particularly preferably 5 to 50 nm, particularly preferably 5 to 20 nm.
  • a particularly preferred pigment based on a lenticular substrate platelet comprises, in addition to a lenticular substrate platelet made of aluminum, only a coating A made of silicon dioxide.
  • the distance between the surface of the substrate platelets and the inner surface of coating B is preferably at most 100 nm, particularly preferably at most 50 nm, particularly preferably at most 20 nm. Because the thickness of coating A and thus the distance between the surface of the substrate platelets and Coating B in the above
  • the pigment based on a lenticular substrate platelet has only one layer A, it is preferred for the pigment to have a lenticular substrate platelet made of aluminum and a layer A made of silicon dioxide. If the pigment based on a lenticular substrate platelet has a layer A and a layer B, it is preferred that the pigment be a lenticular one
  • the pigments have a further coating C made of a metal oxide (hydrate), which is different from the coating B below.
  • Suitable metal oxides are, for example, silicon (di) oxide, silicon oxide hydrate, aluminum oxide, aluminum oxide hydrate, zinc oxide, tin oxide, titanium dioxide, zirconium oxide, iron (III) oxide and chromium (III) oxide. Silica is preferred.
  • the coating C preferably has a thickness of 10 to 500 nm, particularly preferably 50 to 300 nm. By providing the coating C, for example based on T1O2, better interference can be achieved, with a high hiding power being ensured. Layers A and C serve in particular as protection against corrosion and also for chemical and physical stabilization. Layers A and C are particularly preferably contained
  • the layer B can, for example, by hydrolytic decomposition of one or more organic metal compounds and / or by precipitation of one or more dissolved metal salts and, if necessary, subsequent aftertreatment (for example conversion of a hydroxide-containing compound formed
  • Layers in the oxide layers by annealing are produced.
  • each of the coatings A, B and / or C can be built up from a mixture of two or more metal oxides (hydrate), each of the coatings is preferably built up from a metal oxide (hydrate).
  • the pigments based on coated lenticular substrate platelets preferably have a thickness of 70 to 500 nm, particularly preferably 100 to 400 nm, particularly preferably 150 to 320 nm, for example 180 to 290 nm. Due to the small thickness of the substrate platelets, the pigment has a particularly high hiding power. The small thickness of the coated lenticular substrate platelets
  • Substrate platelets are achieved in particular in that the thickness of the uncoated
  • the substrate platelet is small, but also because the thicknesses of the coatings A and, if present, C are set to the smallest possible value.
  • the thickness of coating B determines the color impression of the pigment.
  • the adhesion and abrasion resistance of pigments based on coated lenticular substrate platelets in the keratinous material can be significantly increased by adding organic compounds such as silanes to the outermost layer, depending on the structure of layer A, B or C,
  • Phosphoric acid esters, titanates, borates or carboxylic acids is modified.
  • the organic compounds are bound to the surface of the outermost layer A, B or C, preferably containing metal oxide.
  • the outermost layer designates the layer which is spatially furthest away from the lenticular substrate plate.
  • the organic compounds are preferably functional silane compounds which can bind to the layer A, B or C containing metal oxide. These can be either mono- or bifunctional compounds. Examples of bifunctional organic compounds are
  • a modification with a monofunctional silane, in particular an alkylsilane or arylsilane, can take place. This has only one functional group, which can covalently bind pigments based on coated lenticular substrate platelets (i.e. to the outermost metal oxide-containing layer) or, if it is not completely covered, to the metal surface.
  • the hydrocarbon residue of the silane points away from the pigment.
  • silanes are hexadecyltrimethoxysilane, propyltrimethoxysilane, etc.
  • Pigments based on silicon dioxide-coated ones are particularly preferred
  • Aluminum substrate platelets surface-modified with a monofunctional silane Octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, and hecadecyltrimethoxysilane are particularly preferred
  • Hecadecyltriethoxysilane The changed surface properties / hydrophobicity can improve adhesion, abrasion resistance and alignment in the application.
  • pigments based on lenticular substrate platelets, with such a surface modification also show better compatibility with the organosilicon compounds used and / or their condensation or polymerization products.
  • Substrate platelets in a total amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 6% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.5 to 4, Contains 5% by weight.
  • Pigments based on a lenticular substrate platelet are available, for example, under the name Alegrace® Spotify from Schlenk Metallic Pigments GmbH.
  • Colorings with pigments based on lenticular substrate platelets have a high rub and wash fastness due to their regular structure.
  • the agent (b) can contain further coloring compounds selected from the group consisting of pigments and / or substantive dyes.
  • Pigments in the context of the present invention are understood to mean coloring compounds which at 25 ° C. in water have a solubility of less than 0.5 g / L, preferably less than 0.1 g / L, even more preferably less than 0, 05 g / L.
  • the water solubility can be achieved, for example, using the method described below: Weigh out 0.5 g of the pigment in a beaker. A stir fry is added. Then one liter of distilled water is added. This mixture is heated to 25 ° C. for one hour while stirring on a magnetic stirrer. Are still undissolved in the mixture after this period
  • the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L. If the pigment-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high intensity of the pigment which may be present in finely dispersed form, the mixture is filtered. If a proportion of undissolved pigments remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L.
  • Suitable color pigments can be of inorganic and / or organic origin.
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (b) contains at least one further coloring compound from the group of inorganic and / or organic pigments.
  • Preferred color pigments are selected from synthetic or natural inorganic pigments.
  • Inorganic color pigments of natural origin can be made from chalk, ocher, umber, green earth, burnt Terra di Siena or graphite, for example.
  • black pigments such as B. iron oxide black, colored pigments such.
  • B. ultramarine or iron oxide red and fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments can be used.
  • Colored metal oxides, hydroxides and oxide hydrates, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, metal chromates and / or molybdates are particularly suitable.
  • Particularly preferred color pigments are black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate
  • Colored pigments which are also particularly preferred are colored pearlescent pigments. These are usually based on mica and / or mica and can be coated with one or more metal oxides. Mica is one of the layered silicates. The most important representatives of these silicates are muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite and margarite. To manufacture the
  • Pearlescent pigments in connection with metal oxides the mica, predominantly muscovite or phlogopite, is coated with a metal oxide.
  • synthetic mica coated with one or more metal oxide (s) can also be used as a pearlescent pigment.
  • Particularly preferred pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica (mica) and are coated with one or more of the aforementioned metal oxides. The color of the respective pigments can be varied by varying the layer thickness of the metal oxide (s).
  • pigments based on mica are synthetically produced mica flakes coated with metal oxide, in particular based on synthetic fluorophlogopite (INCI:
  • Synthetic fluorophlogopite The synthetic fluorophlogopite platelets are coated, for example, with tin oxide, iron oxide (s) and / or titanium dioxide.
  • the metal oxide layers can also have pigments such as iron (11/14) hexacyanidoferrate (11/1 11) or carmine red.
  • Such mica pigments are available, for example, under the name SYNCRYSTAL from Eckart.
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (b) contains at least one further coloring compound from the group of pigments, which is selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, Metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or of colored pigments based on mica or mica, which are coated with at least one metal oxide and / or a metal oxychloride.
  • the agent (b) contains at least one further coloring compound from the group of pigments, which is selected from the group of colored metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, Metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or of colored pigments based on mica or mica, which are coated with at least one metal oxide and / or a metal oxychloride.
  • the one method is characterized in that the agent (b) contains at least one further coloring compound from the group of pigments, which is selected from pigments based on mica or mica with one or more metal oxides from the group made of titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (CI 77491, CI 77499), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), chromium oxide (CI 77288) and / or iron blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, CI 77510) are coated.
  • the agent (b) contains at least one further coloring compound from the group of pigments, which is selected from pigments based on mica or mica with one or more metal oxides from the group made of titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77
  • borosilicates are based on metal oxide-coated platelet-shaped borosilicates. These are coated, for example, with tin oxide, iron oxide (s), silicon dioxide and / or titanium dioxide. Such borosilicate-based pigments are available, for example, under the name MIRAGE from Eckart or Reflecks from BASF SE.
  • Colorona® Xirona®
  • Dichrona® and Timiron® from Merck
  • Ariabel® and Unipure® from Sensient
  • Prestige® from Eckart Cosmetic Colors
  • Flamenco® Cellini®
  • Cloisonne® Duocrome®
  • Gemtone® Timica®
  • MultiReflections Chione from BASF SE and Sunshine® from Sunstar.
  • Particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Colorona® are, for example:
  • the agent (b) can also contain one or more further coloring compounds from the group of organic pigments.
  • the organic pigments are correspondingly insoluble, organic dyes or color lakes, for example from the group of nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, anthraquinone, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene , Diketopyrrolopyorrol-, indigo, thioindido, dioxazine, and / or triarylmethane compounds can be selected.
  • Examples of particularly suitable organic pigments are carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680 , CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725 , CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (b) contains at least one further coloring compound from the group of organic pigments, which is selected from the group consisting of carmine,
  • the organic pigment can also be a colored lacquer.
  • colored varnish is understood to mean particles which comprise a layer of absorbed dyes, the unit of particles and dyestuff under the above
  • the particles can be, for example, inorganic substrates, which can be aluminum, silica, calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate or also aluminum.
  • the alizarin color varnish for example, can be used as the color varnish.
  • the use of the aforementioned pigments in means (b) of the process is very particularly preferred. It is also preferred if the pigments used have a certain particle size. It is advantageous according to the invention if the at least one pigment has an average particle size D 50 of 1 to 50 ⁇ m, preferably 5 to 45 ⁇ m, more preferably 10 to 40 ⁇ m, in particular 14 to 30 ⁇ m.
  • the mean particle size Dso can be determined, for example, using dynamic light scattering (DLS).
  • the agent (b) can contain, as further coloring compound (s) (b1), other effect pigments such as pigments based on lamellar substrate platelets or pigments based on VMP substrate platelets.
  • VMP refers to vacuum metallized pigments.
  • the further pigment or pigments can be used in an amount of from 0.001 to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.05 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the agent (b).
  • the agents (b) used in the process can also contain one or more substantive dyes as further coloring compounds.
  • Direct dyes are dyes that are absorbed directly onto the hair and do not require an oxidative process to develop the color. Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines,
  • Nitroaminophenols azo dyes, anthraquinones, triarylmethane dyes or indophenols.
  • the substantive dyes for the purposes of the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25 ° C. of more than 0.5 g / L and are therefore not to be regarded as pigments.
  • the substantive dyes for the purposes of the present invention preferably have a
  • Substantive dyes can be divided into anionic, cationic and nonionic substantive dyes.
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (b) contains at least one anionic, cationic and / or nonionic substantive dye as a further coloring compound.
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (b) contains at least one anionic, cationic and / or nonionic substantive dye.
  • Suitable cationic substantive dyes are, for example, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic Violet 2 and Basic Violet 14, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Red 76, Basic Blue 16, Basic Blue 347 (Cationic Blue 347 / Dystar), HC Blue No. 16, Basic Blue 99, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17, Basic Yellow 57, Basic Yellow 87, Basic Orange 31, Basic Red 51, and / or Basic Red 76
  • nonionic substantive dyes for example, nonionic nitro and
  • Direct dyes are those under the international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, HC Yellow 12, HC Orange 1, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 1, HC Red 3, HC Red 10 , HC Red 11, HC Red 13, HC Red BN, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 11, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9 known compounds, as well as 1, 4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1,4-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -amino-2-nitrobenzene, 3-nitro-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) -aminophenol, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-4,6-dinitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-amino-4- (2-hydroxyethyl) -amino-5-chloro- 2-nitrobenzene, 4-
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (b) contains at least one substantive dye which is selected from the group of anionic, cationic and nonionic substantive dyes.
  • agents (b) which contain at least one anionic substantive dye dyeings with particularly high color intensity can be produced.
  • an agent (b) used in the process is therefore characterized in that it contains at least one anionic substantive dye.
  • Anionic substantive dyes are also referred to as acid dyes.
  • Acid dyes are substantive dyes understood that at least one
  • Carboxylic acid grouping (-COOH) and / or a sulfonic acid grouping (-SO3H).
  • the protonated forms (-COOH, -SO3H) of the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups are in equilibrium with their deprotonated forms (-COO-, -SO3- before). The proportion of protonated forms increases with decreasing pH. If substantive dyes are used in the form of their salts, the carboxylic acid groups or
  • Sulphonic acid groups are present in deprotonated form and are neutralized with corresponding stoichiometric equivalents of cations in order to maintain electroneutrality.
  • Acid dyes can also be used in the form of their sodium salts and / or their potassium salts.
  • the acid dyes for the purposes of the present invention have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25 ° C. of more than 0.5 g / L and are therefore not to be regarded as pigments.
  • the acid dyes preferably have a solubility in water (760 mmHg) at 25 ° C. of more than 1.0 g / l.
  • alkaline earth salts such as calcium salts and magnesium salts
  • aluminum salts of acid dyes often have a poorer solubility than the corresponding alkali salts. If the solubility of these salts is below 0.5 g / L (25 ° C, 760 mmHg), they do not fall under the definition of a substantive dye.
  • An essential feature of the acid dyes is their ability to form anionic charges, the carboxylic acid or sulfonic acid groups responsible for this usually being linked to different chromophoric systems.
  • Suitable chromophoric systems are found, for example, in the structures of nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, triarylmethane dyes, xanthene dyes, rhodamine dyes, oxazine dyes and / or indophenol dyes.
  • an agent (b) which is characterized in that it contains at least one anionic substantive dye selected from the group of nitrophenylenediamines, the
  • Nitroaminophenols the azo dyes, the anthraquinone dyes, the triarylmethane dyes, the xanthene dyes, the rhodamine dyes, the oxazine dyes and / or the
  • Indophenol dyes the dyes from the aforementioned group each having at least one carboxylic acid group (-COOH), one sodium carboxylate group (-COONa) and one potassium carboxylate group (-COOK), a sulfonic acid group (-SO3H), a sodium sulfonate group (-SOsNa) and / or a potassium sulfonate group (-SO3K).
  • Acid Yellow 1 (D&C Yellow 7, Citronin A, Ext. D&C Yellow No. 7, Japan Yellow 403, CI 10316, COLIPA n ° B001), Acid Yellow 3 (COLIPA n °: C 54, D&C Yellow N ° 10, Quinoline Yellow, E104, Food Yellow 13), Acid Yellow 9 (CI 13015), Acid Yellow 17 (CI 18965), Acid Yellow 23 (COLIPA n ° C 29, Covacap Jaune W 1 100 (LCW), Sicovit Tartrazine 85 E 102 (BASF), Tartrazine, Food Yellow 4, Japan Yellow 4, FD&C Yellow No.
  • Acid Yellow 1 (D&C Yellow 7, Citronin A, Ext. D&C Yellow No. 7, Japan Yellow 403, CI 10316, COLIPA n ° B001), Acid Yellow 3 (COLIPA n °: C 54, D&C Yellow N ° 10, Quinoline Yellow, E104, Food Yellow 13), Acid Yellow 9 (CI 13015), Acid Yellow 17 (CI 18965), Acid Yellow 23 (COLIPA
  • Acid Yellow 36 (CI 13065), Acid Yellow 121 ( CI 18690), Acid Orange 6 (CI 14270), Acid Orange 7 (2-Naphthol orange, Orange II, CI 15510, D&C Orange 4, COLIPA n ° C015), Acid Orange 10 (Cl 16230; Orange G sodium salt), Acid Orange 1 1 (CI 45370), Acid Orange 15 (CI 50120), Acid Orange 20 (CI 14600), Acid Orange 24 (BROWN 1; CI 20170; KATSU201; nosodiumsalt; Brown No.201; RESORCIN BROWN; ACID
  • Acid Green 50 (Brillantklare indispensable BS, Cl 44090, Acid Brilliant Green BS, E 142), Acid Black 1 (Black n ° 401, Naphthalene Black 10B, Amido Black 10B, CI 20 470, COLIPA n ° B15), Acid Black 52 (CI 15711), Food Yellow 8 (CI 14270), Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 1 1, D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33, D&C Violet 2 and / or D&C Brown 1.
  • the water solubility of the substantive dyes can be determined, for example, in the following way. 0.1 g of the substantive dye are placed in a beaker. A stir bar is added. Then 100 ml of water are added. This mixture is heated to 25 ° C. on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. It is stirred for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then assessed visually. If there are still undissolved residues, the amount of water is increased - for example in steps of 10 ml. Water is added until the amount of dye used has completely dissolved. If the dye-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high intensity of the dye, the mixture is filtered.
  • the solubility test is carried out with a higher amount of water repeatedly. If 0.1 g of the anionic substantive dye dissolves in 100 ml of water at 25 ° C., the solubility of the dye is 1.0 g / l.
  • Acid Yellow 1 is called 8-hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid disodium salt and has a solubility in water of at least 40 g / L (25 ° C).
  • Acid Yellow 3 is a mixture of the sodium salts of mono- and disulfonic acids of 2- (2-quinolyl) -1 H-indene-1, 3 (2H) -dione and has a water solubility of 20 g / L (25 ° C).
  • Acid Yellow 9 is the disodium salt of 8-hydroxy-5,7-dinitro-2-naphthalenesulfonic acid, its water solubility is above 40 g / L (25 ° C).
  • Acid Yellow 23 is the trisodium salt of 4,5-dihydro-5-oxo-1 - (4-sulfophenyl) -4 - ((4-sulfophenyl) azo) - 1 H-pyrazole-3-carboxylic acid and at 25 ° C well in Water soluble.
  • Acid Orange 7 is the sodium salt of 4 - [(2-Hydroxy-1-naphthyl) azo] benzene sulfonate. His
  • Water solubility is more than 7 g / L (25 ° C).
  • Acid Red 18 is the trisodium salt of 7-hydroxy-8 - [(E) - (4-sulfonato-1-naphthyl) -diazenyl)] - 1,3-naphthalenedisulfonate and has a very high solubility in water of more than 20 wt. -%.
  • Acid Red 33 is the disodium salt of 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3- (phenylazo) -naphthalene-2,7-disulphonate, its water solubility is 2.5 g / L (25 ° C).
  • Acid Red 92 is the disodium salt of 3,4,5,6-tetrachloro-2- (1,4,5,8-tetrabromo-6-hydroxy-3-oxoxanthen-9-yl) benzoic acid, its water solubility is specified with greater than 10 g / L (25 ° C).
  • Acid Blue 9 is the disodium salt of 2 - ( ⁇ 4- [N-ethyl (3-sulfonatobenzyl] amino] phenyl ⁇ ⁇ 4 - [(N-ethyl (3-sulfonatobenzyl) imino] -2,5-cyclohexadiene-1 - ylidene ⁇ methyl) benzene sulfonate and has a water solubility of more than 20% by weight (25 ° C).
  • a very particularly preferred method is characterized in that the agent (b) has at least one anionic substantive dye from the group consisting of Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 3, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 17, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 121, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 1 1, Acid Orange 15, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Acid Red 14, Acid Red, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35 , Acid Red 51, Acid Red 52, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 87, Acid Red 92, Acid Red 95, Acid Red 184, Acid Red 195, Acid Violet 43, Acid Violet 49, Acid Violet 50, Acid Blue 1, Acid Blue 3, Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 104, Acid Blue 9, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 74, Acid Blue 80, Acid Green 3, Acid Green 5, Acid Green 9, Acid Green 22, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 50 , Acid Black 1, Acid Black 52, Food Yellow 8, Food Blue 5, D&C Yellow 8, D&C Green 5, D&C Orange 10, D&C Orange 11, D&C Red 21, D&C Red 27, D&C Red 33, D&C Violet 2, D&C Brown 1 and mixture
  • the substantive dye or dyes in particular the anionic substantive dyes, can be used in the agent (b) in various amounts, depending on the desired color intensity. Particularly good results could be obtained if the means (b) - based on the
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (b) - based on the total weight of the agent (b) - has one or more substantive dyes in a total amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably of 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 6% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.5 to 4.5% by weight.
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (b) - based on the total weight of the agent - has one or more anionic
  • substantive dyes in a total amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 6% by weight and very particularly preferably from 0.5 to 4 , 5% by weight.
  • the agent (b) used in the method is further characterized in that it contains at least one film-forming polymer (b2).
  • Polymers are understood to mean macromolecules with a molecular weight of at least 1000 g / mol, preferably of at least 2500 g / mol, particularly preferably of at least 5000 g / mol, which consist of identical, repeating organic units.
  • the polymers of the present invention can be synthetically produced polymers which are produced by polymerizing one type of monomer or by polymerizing different types of monomers which are structurally different from one another. If the polymer is produced by polymerizing one type of monomer, it is called a homo-polymer. If structurally different types of monomers are used in the polymerization, the resulting polymer is referred to as a copolymer.
  • the maximum molecular weight of the polymer depends on the degree of polymerisation (number of polymerised monomers) and the batch size and is also determined by the polymerisation method. For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferred if the maximum
  • Molecular weight of the film-forming, hydrophobic polymer (b) is not more than 10 7 g / mol, preferably not more than 10 6 g / mol and particularly preferably not more than 10 5 g / mol.
  • a film-forming polymer is understood to mean a polymer which is capable of forming a film on a substrate, for example on a keratin material or a keratin fiber. The formation of a film can be detected, for example, by viewing the keratinic material treated with the polymer under a microscope.
  • the film-forming polymers (b2) in the agent (b) can be hydrophilic or hydrophobic.
  • At least one hydrophobic, film-forming polymer in the means (b).
  • a hydrophobic polymer is understood to mean a polymer that has a solubility in water at 25 ° C. (760 mmHg) of less than 1% by weight.
  • the water solubility of the film-forming, hydrophobic polymer can be determined, for example, in the following way. 1 g of the polymer is placed in a beaker. Make up to 100 g with water. A stir bar is added and the mixture is warmed to 25 ° C on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. It is stirred for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then assessed visually. If the polymer-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high turbidity of the mixture, the mixture is filtered. If a proportion of undissolved polymer remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the polymer is less than 1% by weight.
  • the polymers of the acrylic acid type, the polyurethanes, the polyesters, the polyamides, the polyureas, the cellulose polymers, the nitro-cellulose polymers, the silicone polymers, the polymers of the acrylamide type and the polyisoprenes can be mentioned here in particular .
  • Particularly suitable film-forming, hydrophobic polymers are, for example, polymers from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, copolymers of vinyl alcohol, copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers or copolymers of propylene, homopolymers or copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and / or the polyamides.
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (b) contains at least one film-forming, hydrophobic polymer (b2) which is selected from the group of copolymers of acrylic acid, copolymers of methacrylic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid -Esters, the homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, the homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid amides, the homopolymers or Copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, copolymers of vinyl alcohol, copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers or copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers or copolymers of propylene, homopolymers or copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and / or the polyamides.
  • the agent (b) contains at least one film-forming, hydrophobic polymer (b2) which is selected from the group of copolymers
  • the film-forming hydrophobic polymers which are selected from the group of synthetic polymers, the polymers obtainable by free radical polymerization or the natural polymers have proven particularly suitable for achieving the object of the invention.
  • suitable film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homopolymers or copolymers of olefins, such as cycloolefins, butadiene, isoprene or styrene, vinyl ethers, vinyl amides, the esters or amides of (meth) acrylic acid with at least one Ci-C2o-alkyl group, an aryl group or a C2-Cio-hydroxyalkyl group.
  • olefins such as cycloolefins, butadiene, isoprene or styrene
  • vinyl ethers vinyl amides
  • esters or amides of (meth) acrylic acid with at least one Ci-C2o-alkyl group, an aryl group or a C2-Cio-hydroxyalkyl group such as cycloolefins, butadiene, isoprene or styrene
  • vinyl ethers such as vinyl ethers
  • Further film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homo- or
  • Further film-forming hydrophobic polymers can be selected from the homo- or
  • anionic copolymers are, for example, copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their Ci-C6-alkyl esters, as described under the INCI declaration Acrylates
  • Copolymers are sold.
  • a suitable commercial product is, for example Aculyn ® 33 from Rohm & Haas.
  • copolymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their Ci-C6-alkyl esters and the esters of an ethylenically unsaturated acid and an alkoxylated fatty alcohol are also preferred.
  • Suitable ethylenically unsaturated acids are, in particular, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and itaconic acid;
  • suitable alkoxylated fatty alcohols are, in particular, steareth-20 or ceteth-20.
  • Particularly preferred polymers on the market are, for example, Aculyn® 22 (Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), Aculyn® 28 (Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), Structure 2001® (Acryla-tes / Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer) , Structure 3001® (Acrylates / Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Structure Plus® (Acrylates / Aminoacrylates C10-30 Alkyl PEG-20 Itaconate Copolymer), Carbopol® 1342, 1382, Ultrez 20, Ultrez 21 (Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer), Synthalen W 2000® (Acrylates / Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer) or the Soltex OPT (Acrylates / C 12-22 Alkyl methacrylate Copolymer) sold by Rohme and Haas.
  • Suitable polymers based on vinyl monomers are the homo- and copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone, vinylcaprolactam, vinyl- (C1-C6-) alkyl pyrrole, vinyl oxazole, vinyl thiazole, vinyl pyrimidine or Vinylimidazole.
  • copolymers octylacrylamide / acrylates /
  • butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer as it is, for example, under the trade name
  • AMPHOMER® or LOVOCRYL® 47 is sold commercially by NATIONAL STARCH, or the copolymers of acrylates / octylacrylamides which are sold under the trade names DERMACRYL® LT and DERMACRYL® 79 by NATIONAL STARCH.
  • Suitable polymers based on olefins are the homo- and copolymers of ethylene, propylene, butene, isoprene and butadiene.
  • block copolymers which comprise at least one block made of styrene or the derivatives of styrene can be used as film-forming hydrophobic polymers.
  • These block copolymers can be copolymers which, in addition to a styrene block, contain one or more other blocks, such as, for example, styrene / ethylene, styrene / ethylene / butylene, styrene / butylene, styrene / isoprene, styrene / butadiene.
  • Corresponding polymers are sold commercially by BASF under the trade name “Luvitol HSB”.
  • the agent (b) contained at least one film-forming polymer (b2) which was selected from the group of the homopolymers and copolymers of
  • Vinyl acetate homopolymers and copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers and copolymers of propylene, homopolymers and copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and polyamides.
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (b) contains at least one film-forming polymer (b2) which is selected from the group of homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid, the homopolymers and copolymers of
  • Methacrylic acid the homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid esters, the homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid esters, the homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic acid amides, the homopolymers and copolymers of methacrylic acid amides, the homopolymers and Copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl alcohol, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl acetate, homopolymers and copolymers of ethylene, homopolymers and copolymers of propylene, homopolymers and copolymers of styrene, polyurethanes, polyesters and polyamides.
  • a hydrophilic polymer is understood to mean a polymer that has a solubility in water at 25 ° C. (760 mmHg) of more than 1% by weight, preferably more than 2% by weight.
  • the water solubility of the film-forming hydrophilic polymer can be determined, for example, in the following way. 1 g of the polymer is placed in a beaker. Make up to 100 g with water. A stir bar is added and the mixture is warmed to 25 ° C on a magnetic stirrer while stirring. It is stirred for 60 minutes. The aqueous mixture is then assessed visually. A completely dissolved polymer appears macroscopically homogeneous. If the polymer-water mixture cannot be assessed visually due to the high turbidity of the mixture, the mixture is filtered. If no undissolved polymer remains on the filter paper, the solubility of the polymer is more than 1% by weight.
  • Nonionic, anionic and cationic polymers can be used as film-forming, hydrophilic polymers.
  • Suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers can, for example, from the group of
  • Polyvinylpyrrolidone (co) polymers polyvinyl alcohol (co) polymers, vinyl acetate (co) polymers, carboxyvinyl (co) polymers, acrylic acid (co) polymers, methacrylic acid (co) polymers, natural rubbers , the polysaccharides and / or the acrylamide (co) polymers can be selected.
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • / or a vinylpyrrolidone-containing copolymer as the film-forming hydrophilic polymer.
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (b) contains at least one film-forming, hydrophilic polymer which is selected from the group of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and the copolymers of
  • the agent contains polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) as the film-forming, hydrophilic polymer.
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • the washfastness of the dyeings that could be obtained with PVP-containing agents (b9) was also very good.
  • Particularly suitable polyvinylpyrrolidones are available, for example, under the name Luviskol® K from BASF SE, in particular Luviskol® K 90 or Luviskol® K 85 from BASF SE.
  • the polymer PVP K30 which is sold by Ashland (ISP, POI Chemical), can also be used as another polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) that is explicitly very particularly suitable.
  • PVP K 30 is a polyvinylpyrrolidone which is very soluble in cold water and has the CAS number 9003-39-8.
  • the molecular weight of PVP K 30 is approx. 40,000 g / mol.
  • polyvinylpyrrolidones are the substances known under the trade names LUVITEC K 17, LUVITEC K 30, LUVITEC K 60, LUVITEC K 80, LUVITEC K 85, LUVITEC K 90 and LUVITEC K 115 and available from BASF.
  • film-forming hydrophilic polymers (b2) from the group of copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone has also led to particularly good and washable color results.
  • Particularly suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers that can be mentioned in this context are vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl ester copolymers, such as those listed under the
  • Luviskol ® (BASF). Luviskol ® VA 64 and Luviskol ® VA 73, each vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are particularly preferred nonionic polymers.
  • styrene / VP copolymer and / or a vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymer and / or a VP / DMAPA acrylates copolymer and / or a VP / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA acrylates copolymer are very particularly preferably used in the cosmetic compositions .
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers are sold under the name Luviskol® VA by BASF SE.
  • a VP / vinyl caprolactam / DMAPA Acrylates copolymer is sold by Ashland Inc. under the trade name Aquaflex® SF-40.
  • a VP / DMAPA Acrylates copolymer is sold, for example, under the name Styleze CC-10 by Ashland and is a highly preferred vinylpyrrolidone-containing copolymer.
  • copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone that can be mentioned are the copolymers which are obtained by reacting N-vinylpyrrolidone with at least one further monomer from the group consisting of V-vinylformamide, vinyl acetate, ethylene, propylene, acrylamide, vinylcaprolactam,
  • Vinyl caprolactone and / or vinyl alcohol can be obtained.
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (b) contains at least one film-forming, hydrophilic polymer (b2) which is selected from the group consisting of polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / Styrene copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / ethylene copolymers, Vinyl pyrrolidone / propylene copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl caprolactam copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl formamide copolymers and / or vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl alcohol copolymers.
  • PVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • VVP polyvinylpyrrolidone
  • vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers vinylpyrrolidone / Styrene copolymers
  • vinyl pyrrolidone / ethylene copolymers vinyl pyrrol
  • the agent (b) can contain at least one nonionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer (b2).
  • a nonionic polymer is understood to mean a polymer that does not contain any in a protic solvent - such as, for example, water - under standard conditions
  • Cationic groups include, for example, quaternized ammonium groups, but not protonated amines.
  • Anionic groups include, for example, carboxyl and sulfonic acid groups.
  • the agents are very particularly preferred which contain, as the nonionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer, at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of
  • Carbon atoms in particular from N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate,
  • copolymers of N-vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are used, it is again preferred if the molar ratio of the structural units contained in the monomer N-vinylpyrrolidone to the structural units of the polymer contained in the monomer vinyl acetate is in the range from 20:80 to 80:20, in particular from 30 to 70 to 60 to 40.
  • Vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate are available, for example, under the trademarks Luviskol® VA 37, Luviskol® VA 55, Luviskol® VA 64 and Luviskol® VA 73 from BASF SE.
  • Another particularly preferred polymer is selected from the polymers of the INCI name VP / Methacrylamide / Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer, for example under the
  • Luviset Clear is available from BASF SE.
  • Another very particularly preferred nonionic, film-forming, hydrophilic polymer is a copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone and N, N-dimethylaminiopropyl methacrylamide, which
  • Styleze® CC 10 is sold by ISP.
  • a cationic polymer is the copolymer of N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-vinylcaprolactam, N- (3-dimethylaminopropyl) methacrylamide and 3- (methacryloylamino) propyl-lauryl-dimethylammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-69), which is available for example under the trade name AquaStyle ® 300 (28-32% by weight of active substance in an ethanol-water mixture, molecular weight 350,000) is sold by ISP.
  • AquaStyle ® 300 28-32% by weight of active substance in an ethanol-water mixture, molecular weight 350,000
  • hydrophilic polymers are, for example
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers as offered under the names Luviquat ® FC 370, FC 550 and the INCI name Polyquaternium-16 as well as FC 905 and HM 552,
  • Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylcaprolactam-acrylate terpolymers such as those with acrylic acid esters and
  • Acrylic acid amides are commercially available as a third monomer component, for example under the name Aquaflex ® SF 40.
  • Polyquaternium-1 1 is the reaction product of diethyl sulfate with a copolymer of
  • Vinyl pyrrolidone and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate are available, for example, under the names Dehyquart® CC 11 and Luviquat® PQ 11 PN from BASF SE or Gafquat 440, Gafquat 734, Gafquat 755 or Gafquat 755N from Ashland Inc.
  • Polyquaternium-46 is the reaction product of vinyl caprolactam and vinyl pyrrolidone with
  • Methyl vinylimidazolium methosulfate and is available, for example, under the name Luviquat® Hold from BASF SE.
  • Polyquaternium-46 is preferably used in an amount of 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. It is very particularly preferred that Polyquaternium-46 is used in combination with a cationic guar compound. It is even most preferred that Polyquaternium-46 is used in combination with a cationic guar compound and Polyquaternium-11.
  • Acrylic acid polymers for example, which can be present in uncrosslinked or crosslinked form, can be used as suitable anionic film-forming, hydrophilic polymers.
  • suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the group of natural gums are xanthan gum, gellan gum, carob gum.
  • suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the group of the polysaccharides are hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose.
  • Suitable film-forming, hydrophilic polymers from the group of acrylamides are, for example, polymers which are produced starting from monomers of (meth) acrylamido-C1-C4-alkyl-sulfonic acid or the salts thereof.
  • Corresponding polymers can be selected from the polymers of polyacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, polyacrylamidoethanesulfonic acid,
  • Polyacrylamidopropanesulfonic acid Poly2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, poly-2-methylacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and / or poly-2-methylacrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid.
  • Preferred polymers of the poly (meth) arylamido-C1-C4-alkyl-sulfonic acids are crosslinked and at least 90% neutralized. These polymers can be crosslinked or also uncrosslinked.
  • Crosslinked and completely or partially neutralized polymers of the poly-2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid type are known under the INCI names "Ammonium Polyacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonate” or "Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide”.
  • Another preferred polymer of this type is the crosslinked poly-2-acrylamido-2methyl-propanesulphonic acid polymer sold by Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS, which is partially neutralized with ammonia.
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (b) contains at least one anionic, film-forming polymer (b2).
  • agent (b) contains at least one film-forming polymer (b2) which comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (P-I) and at least one structural unit of the formula (P-II)
  • M for a hydrogen atom or for ammonium (NH4), sodium, potassium, or magnesium Calcium stands.
  • a method according to the invention is characterized in that the agent (b) contains at least one film-forming polymer (b2) which comprises at least one structural unit of the formula (P1) and at least one structural unit of the formula (P-II) in which
  • M for a hydrogen atom or for ammonium (NH4), sodium, potassium, or magnesium Calcium stands.
  • the structural unit of the formula (P-1) is based on the ammonium salt of acrylic acid.
  • the structural unit of the formula (P-1) is based on the magnesium salt of acrylic acid.
  • the structural unit of the formula (P-1) is based on the calcium salt of acrylic acid.
  • the film-forming polymer (s) (b2) are preferably used in certain quantity ranges in the agent (b). In this context, it has proven to be particularly preferred to solve the problem according to the invention if the means (b) - based on the
  • a method is characterized in that the agent (b) - based on the total weight of the agent (b) - has one or more film-forming polymers (b2) in a total amount of 0.1 to 18% by weight, preferably from 1 to 16% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 14.5% by weight and very particularly preferably from 8 to 12% by weight.
  • the means (a) and (b) described above can also contain one or more optional ingredients.
  • the means (a) and / or (b) can additionally contain one or more surfactants.
  • surfactants is understood to mean surface-active substances. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic residue and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants, which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge, cationic surfactants, which have a positively charged hydrophilic group in addition to a hydrophobic residue, and nonionic surfactants, which have no charges but rather strong dipole moments and are strongly hydrated in aqueous solution.
  • Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which have at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ⁇ -> or -S03 () group in the molecule.
  • Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example coconut alkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example cocoacylaminopropyl dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl -3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and that
  • Cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate Cocoacylaminoethyl hydroxyethyl carboxymethyl glycinate.
  • a preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
  • Ampholytic surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a Cs-C24 -alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one —COOH or —SOsH group and are capable of forming internal salts.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with about 8 to 24 C. Atoms in the alkyl group.
  • Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkyl betaines, alkyl amido betaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates,
  • Imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.
  • ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, the
  • the means (a) and / or (b) can also contain at least one nonionic surfactant.
  • Suitable nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglycosides and alkylene oxide addition products with fatty alcohols and fatty acids with 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid. Preparations with good properties are also obtained if, as nonionic surfactants, they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol which have been reacted with at least 2 mol of ethylene oxide.
  • agents (a) and / or (b) can also contain at least one cationic surfactant.
  • Cationic surfactants are understood to mean surfactants, that is to say surface-active compounds, each with one or more positive charges. Contains cationic surfactants only positive charges. These surfactants are usually composed of a hydrophobic part and a hydrophilic head group, the hydrophobic part usually consisting of a
  • Hydrocarbon backbone e.g. consisting of one or two linear or branched alkyl chains
  • positive charge (s) are located in the hydrophilic head group.
  • cationic surfactants are
  • Quaternary ammonium compounds which can carry one or two alkyl chains with a chain length of 8 to 28 carbon atoms as hydrophobic radicals,
  • the cationic charge can also be part of a heterocyclic ring (e.g. an imidazolium ring or a pyridinium ring) in the form of an onium structure.
  • the cationic surfactant can also contain other uncharged functional groups, as is the case, for example, with esterquats.
  • the cationic surfactants are used in a total amount of 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the respective agent.
  • the agents (a) and / or (b) can furthermore also contain at least one anionic surfactant.
  • Anionic surfactants are surface-active agents with exclusively anionic charges (neutralized by a corresponding counter cation).
  • anionic surfactants are fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 12 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 16 glycol ether groups in the molecule.
  • the anionic surfactants are used in a total amount of 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the respective agent.
  • the agents (a) and (b) can also contain at least one alkalizing agent and / or acidifying agent.
  • the pH values in the context of the present invention are pH values that were measured at a temperature of 22 ° C.
  • the agents (a) and / or (b) can contain, for example, ammonia, alkanolamines and / or basic amino acids as alkalizing agents.
  • alkanolamines that can be used in the agents are preferably selected from primary amines with a C2-C6-alkyl parent structure which carries at least one hydroxyl group.
  • Preferred alkanolamines are selected from the group that is formed from 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropane -2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1 - amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3- Aminopropane-1,2-diol, 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol.
  • Particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from 2-aminoethan-1-ol and / or 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1 -ol.
  • a particularly preferred embodiment is therefore characterized in that an agent (a) and / or (b) contains an alkanolamine selected from 2-aminoethane-1-ol and / or 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1 -ol as alkalizing agent.
  • amino acid in the context of the invention is an organic compound which in its structure contains at least one protonatable amino group and at least one —COOH or one —SOsH group.
  • Preferred amino acids are aminocarboxylic acids, in particular a- (alpha) - aminocarboxylic acids and w-aminocarboxylic acids, with a-aminocarboxylic acids being particularly preferred.
  • basic amino acids are to be understood as meaning those amino acids which have an isoelectric point p1 of greater than 7.
  • Basic ⁇ -aminocarboxylic acids contain at least one asymmetric carbon atom.
  • both possible enantiomers can be used equally as specific compounds or mixtures thereof, in particular as racemates.
  • the basic amino acids are preferably selected from the group that is formed from arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine, particularly preferably from arginine and lysine.
  • a method is therefore characterized in that the alkalizing agent is a basic amino acid from the group arginine, lysine,
  • the means (a) and / or (b) can contain further alkalizing agents, in particular inorganic alkalizing agents.
  • Inorganic alkalizing agents that can be used are preferably selected from the group formed by sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate,
  • alkalizing agents are ammonia and 2-aminoethan-1-ol
  • Acidifying agents familiar to the person skilled in the art are, for example, organic acids such as citric acid, acetic acid, maleic acid, lactic acid, malic acid or tartaric acid, and dilute mineral acids such as hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid or phosphoric acid.
  • the agent (a) and / or the agent (b) can also contain a matting agent.
  • Suitable matting agents include, for example, (modified) starches, waxes, talc and / or
  • agent (modified) silicas modified silicas.
  • the amount of matting agent is preferably between 0.1 and 10% by weight based on the total amount of agent (a) or agent (b).
  • Agent (b) preferably contains a matting agent.
  • the agent (a) also has at least one coloring compound selected from the group consisting of pigments and / or substantive compounds
  • the coloring compounds from the group of pigments and / or substantive dyes which can be used in agent (a) can in principle correspond to the coloring compounds which are also used in agent (b).
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one coloring compound from the group of inorganic and / or organic pigments.
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (a) contains at least one coloring compound from the group of organic pigments, which is selected from the group consisting of carmine, quinacridone,
  • Phthalocyanine, Sorgho blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 1 1680, CI 1 1710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21 100, CI 21 108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 1 1725, CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71 105, red pigments with the color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI
  • the means (a) and / or (b) can also contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, such as solvents, fatty components such as C8-C30 fatty acid triglycerides, C8-C30 fatty acid monoglycerides, C8-C3o -Fatty acid diglycerides and / or the hydrocarbons; Polymers; Structurants such as glucose or sodium chloride, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example lecithin and cephalins;
  • Perfume oils dimethyl isosorbide and cyclodextrins
  • active ingredients that improve fiber structure in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fruit sugar and lactose; Dyes for coloring the agent; Anti-dandruff ingredients such as Piroctone Olamine, Zinc Omadine and Climbazole; Amino acids and oligopeptides; Protein hydrolyzates based on animals and / or plants, and in the form of their fatty acid condensation products or optionally anionically or cationically modified derivatives; vegetable oils; Sunscreens and UV blockers; Active ingredients such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, pantolactone, allantoin, pyrrolidinone carboxylic acids and their salts, and bisabolol; Polyphenols, in particular hydroxycinnamic acids, 6,7-dihydroxycoumarins, hydroxybenzoic acids, catechins, tannins, leucoant
  • Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers; Pearlescent agents like
  • Ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3 distearate as well as propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N2O, dimethyl ether, CO2 and air.
  • the person skilled in the art will select these additional substances according to the desired properties of the agents. With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, express reference is made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art.
  • the additional active ingredients and auxiliaries are preferably used in agents (a) and / or (b) in amounts of 0.0001 to 25% by weight, in particular 0.0005 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the respective agent.
  • agents (a) and (b) are applied to the keratinic materials, in particular to human hair.
  • means (a) and (b) are the means ready to use.
  • the means (a) and (b) are different from each other.
  • the means (a) and (b) can in principle be used simultaneously or successively, the successive application being preferred.
  • a method for coloring keratinic material, in particular human hair, comprising the following steps in the specified is therefore very particularly preferred
  • Sequence in a first step, using an agent (a) on the keratinous material, the agent (a) containing at least one organic silicon compound, and
  • the agents (a) and (b) are also particularly preferably used within one and the same dyeing process, which means that between the use of the agents (a) and ( b) a period of a maximum of a few hours.
  • the method is characterized in that the agent (a) is applied first and then the agent (b) is applied, the period between the application of the agents (a) and (b) being a maximum of 24 hours , preferably a maximum of 12 hours and particularly preferably a maximum of 6 hours.
  • the keratinic materials in particular human hair, are first treated with agent (a).
  • agent (a) the actual coloring agent (b) - which contains the coloring compounds - is then applied to the keratinic materials.
  • the agent (a) itself preferably contains no dyes or no coloring compounds.
  • the agent (a) is characterized by its content of at least one reactive organic
  • the reactive organic silicon compound (s) (a) functionalize the hair surface as soon as they come into contact with it. In this way, a first, as yet uncolored film is formed.
  • a coloring agent (b) is then applied to the hair. During the application of the coloring agent (b) the coloring agents go
  • Compounds interact with the film formed by the organosilicon compounds and are bound in this way to the keratinic materials.
  • Rinsing out the keratinic material with water in steps (3) and (6) of the method is understood according to the invention to mean that only water is used for the rinsing process, without any further means other than means (a) and (b) would be used.
  • the agent (a) is first applied to the keratinic materials, in particular the human hair.
  • the agent (a) is allowed to act on the keratinic materials.
  • exposure times of 10 seconds to 10 minutes, preferably 20 seconds to 5 minutes and very particularly preferably 30 seconds to 2 minutes, on the keratinic materials, in particular on human hair, have proven to be particularly advantageous.
  • the agent (a) can now be rinsed out of the keratinic materials before the agent (b) is applied to the hair in the subsequent step.
  • step (4) the agent (b) is now applied to the keratinic materials. After application, the agent (b) is now allowed to act on the hair.
  • step (6) agent (b) (and any agent (a) that is still present) is then rinsed out of the keratinic material with water.
  • Multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts)
  • means (a) and (b) are applied to the keratinic materials, i. E. the two remedies (a) and (b) are the ready-to-use remedies.
  • a second subject of the present invention is therefore a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for coloring keratinic material, comprehensively packaged separately from one another
  • the organic silicon compounds contained in the middle (a) of the kit correspond to the organic silicon compounds which were also used in the middle (a) of the method described above.
  • the coloring compounds from the group of the pigments and / or the substantive dyes contained in the agent (b) of the kit correspond to the coloring compounds from the group of the pigments and / or the substantive dyes, which are also used in the agent (b) of the method described above were.
  • the agent (a) contains the organic silicon compound (s) a class of reactive compounds which, as described above, can undergo hydrolysis and / or oligomerization and / or polymerization in the presence of water. As a result of their high reactivity, these organic silicon compounds form a film on the keratinous material.
  • the ready-to-use agent (a) is not produced until shortly before use.
  • a multi-component packaging unit for coloring keratinous material is packaged comprehensively separately from one another
  • the agent (a1) itself is preferably formulated to be low in water or anhydrous.
  • a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) is characterized in that the agent (a1) - based on the total weight of the agent (a1) - has a water content of less than 10% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, more preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight and very particularly preferably less than 0.01% by weight.
  • the agent (a2) contains water.
  • a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) is characterized in that the agent (a2) - based on the total weight of the agent (a2) - has a water content of 15 to 100% by weight, preferably from 35 to 100% % By weight, more preferably from 55 to 100% by weight, even more preferably from 65 to 100% by weight and very particularly preferably from 75 to 100% by weight.
  • the ready-to-use agent (a) is now produced by mixing the agents (a1) and (a2).
  • the user can first stir or spill the agent (a1) which contains the organic silicon compound (s) with the water-containing agent (a2).
  • This mixture of (a1) and (a2) can now be applied to the keratinous materials by the user - either directly after its preparation or after a short reaction time of 10 seconds to 20 minutes.
  • the user can then use means (b) as described above.
  • silanes were mixed with some of the water, this mixture was allowed to stand for 30 minutes.
  • the pH was then adjusted to the desired value by adding citric acid / ammonia. It was then made up to 100 g with water.
  • the strands of hair were each dipped into the agent (b) and left in it for 1 minute. Thereafter, excess agent (b) was stripped from each strand of hair. Each strand of hair was briefly washed out with water. Excess water was wiped off each strand of hair.
  • the tresses were then assessed visually. A silver-metallic coloring of the hair with high intensity and authenticity was obtained.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne un procédé de coloration d'une matière kératinique, en particulier de cheveux, ce procédé comprenant les étapes suivantes : application d'un agent (a) sur la matière kératinique, l'agent (a) contenant au moins un composé organique au silicium; et application d'un agent (b) sur la matière kératinique, l'agent (b) contenant : (b1) au moins un composé colorant contenant au moins un pigment à base d'une plaquette de substrat lenticulaire; et (b2) au moins un polymère filmogène. La présente invention concerne également une unité de conditionnement à plusieurs composants, laquelle contient les deux agents (a) et (b) dans deux récipients confectionnés séparément.
EP20711862.1A 2019-03-19 2020-03-13 Procédé de coloration d'une matière kératinique consistant à utiliser un composé organique au silicium, un pigment à effet et un polymère filmogène ii Pending EP3941432A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE102019203677.5A DE102019203677A1 (de) 2019-03-19 2019-03-19 Verfahren zum Färben von keratinischem Material, umfassend die Anwendung von einer siliciumorganischen Verbindung, eines Effektpigments und eines filmbildenden Polymers II
PCT/EP2020/056793 WO2020187727A1 (fr) 2019-03-19 2020-03-13 Procédé de coloration d'une matière kératinique consistant à utiliser un composé organique au silicium, un pigment à effet et un polymère filmogène ii

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EP3941432A1 true EP3941432A1 (fr) 2022-01-26

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US (1) US20220168205A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP3941432A1 (fr)
JP (1) JP2022526137A (fr)
CN (1) CN113597300A (fr)
DE (1) DE102019203677A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2020187727A1 (fr)

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DE102019203676A1 (de) * 2019-03-19 2020-09-24 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verfahren zum Färben von keratinischem Material, umfassend die Anwendung von einer siliciumorganischen Verbindung, eines Effektpigments, einer weiteren farbgebenden Verbindung und eines filmbildenden Polymers II
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DE102019206915A1 (de) * 2019-05-13 2020-11-19 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verfahren zum Färben von keratinischem Material, umfassend die Anwendung einer siliciumorganischen Verbindung, einer farbgebenden Verbindung, eines modifizierten Fettsäureesters und eines filmbildenden Polymers II
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DE102019210686A1 (de) * 2019-07-19 2021-01-21 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verfahren zum Färben von keratinischem Material, umfassend die Anwendung von einer siliciumorganischen Verbindung, eines farbigen Effektpigments und eines filmbildenden Polymers I
DE102019210692A1 (de) * 2019-07-19 2021-01-21 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verfahren zum Färben von keratinischem Material, umfassend die Anwendung von einer siliciumorganischen Verbindung, eines farbigen Effektpigments und eines filmbildenden Polymers III
DE102019211505A1 (de) * 2019-08-01 2021-02-04 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verfahren zur Färbung von Keratinmaterial, umfassend die Anwendung eines organischen C1-C6-Alkoxy-silans und eines Alkalisierungsmittels
DE102019219715A1 (de) * 2019-12-16 2021-06-17 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verfahren zur Färbung von Keratinmaterial, umfassend die Anwendung eines organischen C1-C6-Alkoxysilans und Tanninsäure
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DE102019219713A1 (de) * 2019-12-16 2021-06-17 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verfahren zur Färbung von Keratinmaterial, umfassend die Anwendung eines organischen C1-C6-Alkoxysilans und eines Copolymers aus Styrol und Maleinsäure(anhydrid)
DE102020203248A1 (de) * 2020-03-13 2021-09-16 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Verfahren zum Färben von keratinischem Material, umfassend die Anwendung von einer siliciumorganischen Verbindung, zweier farbgebender Verbindungen und eines Nachbehandlungsmittels

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CN113597300A (zh) 2021-11-02
US20220168205A1 (en) 2022-06-02
JP2022526137A (ja) 2022-05-23
WO2020187727A1 (fr) 2020-09-24
DE102019203677A1 (de) 2020-09-24

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