WO2021115825A1 - Composition cosmétique sous la forme d'une nanoémulsion huile-dans-eau comprenant au moins une substance grasse liquide, au moins une substance grasse solide et au moins un tensioactif cationique - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique sous la forme d'une nanoémulsion huile-dans-eau comprenant au moins une substance grasse liquide, au moins une substance grasse solide et au moins un tensioactif cationique Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021115825A1
WO2021115825A1 PCT/EP2020/083936 EP2020083936W WO2021115825A1 WO 2021115825 A1 WO2021115825 A1 WO 2021115825A1 EP 2020083936 W EP2020083936 W EP 2020083936W WO 2021115825 A1 WO2021115825 A1 WO 2021115825A1
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oil
weight
chosen
carbon atoms
fatty
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PCT/EP2020/083936
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English (en)
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Gérard Gabin
Aurore DION
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2021115825A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021115825A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/416—Quaternary ammonium compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/925—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of animal origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/21—Emulsions characterized by droplet sizes below 1 micron

Definitions

  • TITLE Cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water nanoemulsion comprising at least one liquid fatty substance, at least one solid fatty substance and at least one cationic surfactant
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil- in-water nanoemulsion
  • a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil- in-water nanoemulsion
  • at least one liquid fatty substance (i) preferably including at least one oil of triglyceride type, at least one solid fatty substance (ii), at least one particular surfactant (iii), and water (iv)
  • the total content of fatty substances (i) and (ii) being greater than or equal to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin fibres such as the hair, in which this composition is applied to said fibres.
  • the invention relates to the use of this composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • compositions in the form of a nanoemulsion in particular of oil-in-water type (O/W) are well known in the cosmetics and dermatology domain, in particular for preparing cosmetic products such as lotions, creams, tonics, serums or eaux de toilette in order to be applied to the skin and/or the hair.
  • O/W oil-in-water type
  • Compositions in nanoemulsion form generally have a number-average oil drop (or oily globule) size of less than 100 nanometres, said oil drops being stabilized by a layer of amphiphilic molecules that can optionally form a liquid crystal phase of lamellar type, located at the oil/aqueous phase interface.
  • amphiphilic molecule is intended to mean herein any molecule having a bipolar structure, i.e. including at least one hydrophobic part and at least one hydrophilic part and having the property of reducing the surface tension of water (g ⁇ 55 mN/m) and of reducing the interface tension between water and an oily phase.
  • Amphiphilic molecules are for example surfactants, surface agents or emulsifiers.
  • compositions in the form of a nanoemulsion offer a certain number of advantages from a cosmetic or dermatological point of view leading in particular to a uniform and effective deposit of the composition on the skin and/or hair, in particular for the hair a uniform deposit from the root to the end, while at the same time allowing satisfactory oil penetration and persistence.
  • compositions in nanoemulsion form confer improved cosmetic properties on keratin materials.
  • compositions in nanoemulsion form confer good disentangling, softness, feel, rinsability and suppleness properties and have a very good conditioning effect, which usually prove to be better than those obtained with the conventional emulsions and dispersions used in the cosmetics field.
  • Oil-in-water type nanoemulsions are for example described in patent application FR 1 763 395.
  • compositions during application to wet keratin materials, for example wet hair, sometimes transform too rapidly while going from a very structured gel to a fluid milk, which can present drawbacks, for example in terms of use qualities. More specifically, such compositions do not make it possible to guarantee a sufficiently precise application and a uniform distribution of the product on the keratin materials. In particular, it is sometimes difficult to take a handful of these compositions, to measure them out and to apply them to keratin materials, these compositions tending to run off said materials.
  • composition in the form of an oil-in-water nanoemulsion comprising at least one liquid fatty substance (i), preferably including at least one oil of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, at least one solid fatty substance (ii), at least one particular surfactant (iii), and water (iv), the total content of fatty substances (i) and (ii) being greater than or equal to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition makes it possible to meet the needs expressed above.
  • such a composition can have an original gelled texture which does not require the addition of thickening polymers or of a gelling agent.
  • a subject of the invention is thus a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water nanoemulsion comprising: (i) one or more fatty substances with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, preferably including one or more oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin,
  • the composition according to the invention has a firm, or even gelled, texture, and an "on surface” effect, that is to say a transformation of texture during application with the sensation of a creamy and rich texture which nicely coats the hair or nicely covers the skin, even though a fluid composition is applied. That results in the appearance of a coating and a more or less strong presence of the product on the keratin materials, at the moment of application.
  • This effect is directly connected to the rheological behaviour of the galenic product when it comes into contact with the wet keratin material, and thus to its level of viscosity when diluted with water.
  • the moment of application thus lasts longer; it also makes it possible to facilitate the grasping and measuring out of the product, and to obtain a better localization and a better distribution of the composition on the keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, when it is applied, while at the same time minimizing the risks of running and/or splashing, in particular into the eyes.
  • the composition has improved use qualities guaranteeing both a more targeted distribution without running at the point of application and a uniform spreading on the keratin materials, in particular the keratin fibres.
  • the initial composition which can be in quite a fluid form, will transform, during application to wet hair, into a creamier composition; the user will have the sensation of having more material to be distributed on the hair, the composition will not immediately melt away during application.
  • the composition according to the invention makes it possible to confer on the keratin fibres improved cosmetic properties, in particular in terms of suppleness, feel, softness, disentangling, and also good rinsability properties.
  • composition according to the invention is stable with respect to storage over time, both at ambient temperature (25°C) and at higher temperatures, in particular at 45°C.
  • stable with respect to storage over time is intended to mean that the following physical characteristics of the composition vary little, or even not at all, over time: oil globule size, appearance, pH, rheology (viscosity, consistency).
  • the composition does not give rise to any phase-separation or exudation phenomena over time, and at the intended storage temperature.
  • the invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin fibres such as the hair, in which the composition according to the invention is applied to said materials, preferably fibres.
  • the invention relates to the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular of human keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “one or more”.
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed on thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in the standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013> ⁇ 10 5 Pa).
  • fatty substance is intended to mean an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013> ⁇ 10 5 Pa) (solubility of less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferentially less than 0.1% by weight).
  • the fatty substances have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain including at least 6 carbon atoms and/or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups.
  • the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
  • organic solvents for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises one or more fatty substances (i) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, preferably less than or equal to 20°C, at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0 5 Pa), preferably including one or more oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin.
  • these fatty substances are liquid at atmospheric pressure, and are not in the solid or gaseous state.
  • this or these fatty substances are also referred to as “liquid fatty substance(s)” or “oil(s)”.
  • liquid fatty substances that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
  • non-silicone fatty substance is intended to mean a fatty substance not containing any Si-0 bonds and the term “silicone fatty substance” is intended to mean a fatty substance containing at least one Si-0 bond.
  • the liquid fatty substances (i) are non-silicone substances.
  • Oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin preferably comprises, among the fatty substances (i), one or more oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin.
  • the triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sesame oil, soybean oil, coffee oil, safflower oil, borage oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, apricot kernel oil, camellia oil, bambara pea oil, avocado oil, mango oil, rice bran oil, cottonseed oil, rose oil, kiwi seed oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, blueberry seed oil, poppy seed oil, orange pip oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, vernonia oil, marjoram oil, baobab oil, rapeseed oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under
  • the oil(s) of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin (i) are advantageously present in a total content of greater than or equal to 25% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 30% by weight, more preferentially greater than or equal to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the liquid fatty substances (i).
  • the oil(s) of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin are advantageously present in a total content ranging from 5 to 60% by weight, preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 15 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Liquid fatty substances other than the oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin are advantageously present in a total content ranging from 5 to 60% by weight, preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 15 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may optionally comprise one or more fatty substances (i) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C, other than the oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin. More particularly, the fatty substance(s) (i) can be chosen from G to Ci 6 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non silicone oils of animal origin, fluoro oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty alcohols, esters and acids more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group, comprising from 6 to 40 and better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular, with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • the Ce to Ci 6 liquid hydrocarbons the latter may be linear, branched, or optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes.
  • hexane By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane or isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane or isodecane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms may be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from liquid paraffin or liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam ® , and mixtures thereof.
  • hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.
  • fluoro oils they may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-l,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "Flutec ® PCI” and “Flutec ® PC3” by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-l,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050 ® " and "PF 5060 ® " by the company 3M, or else bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "Foralkyl ® " by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052 ® " by the company 3M.
  • the liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for use in the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols, including from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Mention may be made for example of octyl dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol or linoleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols other than the triglycerides mentioned above mention may be made notably of esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.
  • the esters of monoalcohols one at least of the alcohol or of the acid from which the esters of the invention result is branched.
  • dihydroabietyl behenate octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyldodecy
  • ethyl palmitate isopropyl palmitate
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate
  • isocetyl stearate 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate
  • isodecyl neopentanoate isostearyl neopentanoate
  • mixtures thereof ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate
  • Esters of C4 to C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of Ci to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of Ce to C30, preferably C12 to C22, fatty acids.
  • sugar esters and diesters of Ce to C30, preferably C12 to C22, fatty acids.
  • sugar esters and diesters of Ce to C30, preferably C12 to C22, fatty acids.
  • esters of sugars and of fatty acids may be chosen notably from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated G to C30, preferably C12 to C22, fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • the esters may also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates, arachidonates or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate and palmito-stearate esters.
  • monoesters and diesters and notably sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or di- oleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates, and mixtures thereof.
  • liquid ester of a monoacid and of a monoalcohol Preferably, use will be made of a liquid ester of a monoacid and of a monoalcohol.
  • the silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the present invention may be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched silicone oils, which are unmodified or modified with organic groups, and preferably have a viscosity from 5xl0 6 to 2.5 m 2 /s at 25°C, and preferably lxlO 5 to 1 m 2 /s.
  • the silicone oils are chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, notably polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes including at least one aryl group. These silicone oils may also be organomodified.
  • the organomodified silicone oils that may be used in accordance with the invention are preferably liquid silicones as defined above and including in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group, chosen, for example, from amine groups and alkoxy groups.
  • Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in Walter Noll’s publication Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • silicone oils are more particularly chosen from those with a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:
  • cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes including from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms. They may for example be octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, and also mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Volatile Silicone® FZ 3109 sold by the company Dow Chemicals.
  • Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes are preferably used.
  • silicone oils are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which mention may be made mainly of poly dimethyl siloxanes bearing trimethyl silyl end groups.
  • the viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25°C according to the standard ASTM 445, Appendix C.
  • polydialkylsiloxanes mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the following commercial products: - the Silbione® oils of the 47 and 70047 series or the Mirasil® oils sold by Rhodia, for instance the oil 70047 V 500 000;
  • oils of the 200 series from the company Dow Corning, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60 000 mm 2 /s; - the Viscasil ® oils from General Electric and certain oils of the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.
  • CTFA dimethiconol
  • organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined previously and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group.
  • liquid polyorganosiloxanes including at least one aryl group may notably be polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned previously.
  • the polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and/or branched polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes and polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1 x 10 5 to 5x 10 2 m 2 /s at 25°C.
  • examples that may be mentioned include the products sold under the following names:
  • organomodified silicones including:
  • substituted or unsubstituted amino groups such as the products sold under the names GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Coming.
  • the substituted amino groups are in particular Cl to C4 aminoalkyl groups;
  • the fatty substance(s) (i) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C other than the oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from Ce to Ci 6 liquid hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances (i) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C other than the oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin
  • the fatty substance(s) (i) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C other than the oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin are advantageously present in a total content ranging from 5 to 60% by weight, preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, more preferentially from 15 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the fatty substance(s) (i) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C are present in a total content of greater than or equal to 35% by weight, preferably ranging from 38 to 80% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 40 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition does not comprise any silicone liquid fatty substances.
  • the non-silicone fatty substance(s) (i) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C are present in a total content of greater than or equal to 35% by weight, preferably ranging from 38 to 80% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 40 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin and one or more fatty substances with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C other than the oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention also comprises one or more fatty substances with a melting point of greater than 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, more preferentially greater than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1.013xl0 5 Pa).
  • this or these fatty substances are also referred to as "solid fatty substance(s)”.
  • the solid fatty substances that may be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.
  • the solid fatty substances according to the invention preferably have a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s 1 .
  • the solid fatty substances are non-silicone substances.
  • the fatty substance(s) with a melting point of greater than 25°C are preferably chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, waxes, ceramides, solid monoglycerides, diglycerides or triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty acids is intended to mean a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the solid fatty acids according to the invention preferentially comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
  • the solid fatty acids that may be used in the present invention are notably chosen from myristic acid, cetylic acid, stearylic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty alcohol is intended to mean a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
  • the solid fatty alcohols may be saturated or unsaturated, and linear or branched, and include from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the solid fatty alcohols have the structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferentially from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and even better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the solid fatty alcohols that may be used are preferably chosen from saturated, and linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, (mono)alcohols including from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the solid fatty alcohols that may be used may be chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol.
  • the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl alcohol, better still the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl alcohol.
  • the solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from esters resulting from a C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and/or from a C9-C26 fatty alcohol.
  • these solid fatty esters are esters of a linear or branched, saturated carboxylic acid including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and of a linear or branched, saturated monoalcohol, including at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the saturated carboxylic acids may be optionally hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.
  • esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2-C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated alcohols may also be used.
  • the solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, notably myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate; C9-C26 alkyl myristates, such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate and stearyl stearate; and mixtures thereof.
  • C9-C26 alkyl palmitates notably myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate or stearyl palmitate
  • C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate
  • C9-C26 alkyl stearates in particular myristyl stearate, cetyl
  • the solid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol are chosen from myristyl stearate, myristyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
  • a wax is a lipophilic compound, which is solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point greater than about 40°C, which may range up to 200°C, and having in the solid state anisotropic crystal organization.
  • the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and/or scatter light, giving the composition that comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance.
  • the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes, and mixtures thereof.
  • hydrocarbon-based waxes for instance beeswax or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cocoa butter, cork fibre or sugarcane waxes, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumac wax, absolute waxes of flowers; montan wax, orange wax, lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.
  • C2 to C60 microcrystalline waxes such as Micro wax HW.
  • Mention may also be made of the PM 500 polyethylene wax sold under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene. Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched Cx to C32 fatty chains.
  • isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans- isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(l,l,l-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S ® by the company Heterene.
  • isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans- isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, notably the product manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil and bis(l,l,l-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, notably the product sold under the name Hest 2T-4S ® by the company Heterene.
  • the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol such as those sold under the names Phytowax Castor 16L64 ® and 22L73 ® by the company Sophim, may also be used.
  • a wax that may also be used is a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture.
  • Such a wax is notably sold under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P ® ", “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P ® “ and “Kester Wax K 80 P ®” by the company Koster Keunen.
  • microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; mention may be made notably of carnauba microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350 ® by the company Micro Powders, synthetic-wax microwaxes, such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S ® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names Micro Care 300 ® and 310 ® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and of synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325 ® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 200 ® , 220 ® , 220L ® and 250S ® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as the products sold under the names Microslip 519 ® and 5
  • the waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes, for instance paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite wax; plant waxes, for instance cocoa butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto grass wax, or absolute waxes of flowers, such as essential wax of blackcurrant flower sold by the company Bertin (France); waxes of animal origin, for instance beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and mixtures thereof.
  • mineral waxes for instance paraffin, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite wax
  • plant waxes for instance cocoa butter or cork fibre or sugar cane waxes, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, ouricury wax, carnauba
  • ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, which may be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; mention may in particular be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the Dawning classification.
  • ceramides or analogues thereof that may be used preferably correspond to the following formula: in which:
  • - Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, it being possible for this group to be substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid;
  • - R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8;
  • R3 denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon-based group, which is saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group possibly being substituted with one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; it being understood that, in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group optionally being esterified with a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid.
  • Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids
  • R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group
  • the ceramides that are more particularly preferred are the compounds for which Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated linear C15 group.
  • Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids
  • R2 denotes a hydrogen atom
  • R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated linear C15 group.
  • Use may also be made of the compounds for which Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived
  • the fatty substance(s) (ii) with a melting point of greater than 25°C are chosen from waxes, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially from beeswax, cetylstearyl alcohol, myristyl stearate, myristyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty substance(s) (ii) with a melting point of greater than 25°C are present in a content of greater than or equal to 2% by weight, preferably ranging from 2 to 20% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 3 to 18% by weight, better still from 4 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the non-silicone fatty substance(s) (ii) with a melting point of greater than 25°C are present in a content of greater than or equal to 2% by weight, preferably ranging from 2 to 20% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 3 to 18% by weight, better still from 4 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio between the total content of the fatty substance(s) (i) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C and the total content of the fatty substance(s) (ii) with a melting point of greater than 25°C is greater than 1, preferably greater than or equal to 2, preferentially ranges from 2 to 30, better still from 3 to 15, even better still from 3.5 to 10.
  • the fatty substances (i) and (ii) are present in a total content of greater than or equal to 42% by weight, preferably ranging from 42 to 90% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 45 to 80% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 50 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio between the total content of the non-silicone fatty substance(s) (i) with a melting point of less than or equal to 25°C and the total content of the non-silicone fatty substance(s) (ii) with a melting point of greater than 25°C is greater than 1, preferably greater than or equal to 2, preferentially ranges from 2 to 30, better still from 3 to 15, even better still from 3.5 to 10.
  • the non-silicone fatty substances (i) and (ii) are present in a total content of greater than or equal to 42% by weight, preferably ranging from 42 to 90% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 45 to 80% by weight, even more preferentially ranging from 50 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention also comprises one or more cationic surfactants.
  • cationic surfactant is intended to mean a surfactant that is positively charged when it is contained in the composition according to the invention. This surfactant may bear one or more positive permanent charges or may contain one or more cationizable functions in the composition according to the invention.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) can be chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, which are optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or salts thereof, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from quaternary ammonium salts.
  • the fatty amines generally comprise at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon-based chain.
  • quaternary ammonium salts examples include:
  • the groups Ri to R4 which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups Ri to R4 denoting a linear or branched aliphatic radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms especially such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
  • the aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C2-C6)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2-C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (Ci2-C22)alkyl acetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups;
  • X is an anion chosen from the group of the halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates and (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (Ci- C4)alkylaryl sulfonates.
  • quaternary ammonium salts of formula (I) are, on the one hand, tetraalkylammonium salts, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts, or else, on the other hand, the palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, the stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, the stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts, or the stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium salts sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk. It is preferred in particular to use the chloride salts of these compounds.
  • R.6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • R.7 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group
  • Rx represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group
  • X is an anion chosen from the group of the halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates or alkylarylsulfonates, the alkyl and aryl groups of which preferably comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • R5 and R.6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups including from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R.7 denotes a methyl group and Rx denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • R.7 denotes a methyl group
  • Rx denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • R9 denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms
  • Rio is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R9a)(Rioa)(Riia)N-(CH2)3,
  • R9a, Rioa, Riia, Rii, Ri2, Ri3 and Ri4, which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms
  • X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci- C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfonates and (Ci-C4)alkylaryl sulfonates, and in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
  • Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, made available by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, made available by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75), - quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (IV) below: in which:
  • Ri5 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;
  • Ri 6 is chosen from:
  • R18 is chosen from:
  • Ri7, Ri9 and R21 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups; r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10; x and z, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;
  • X is a simple or complex, organic or mineral anion; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R16 denotes R20, and that when z is 0 then Ris denotes R22.
  • the alkyl groups R15 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
  • Ris denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
  • the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
  • Ri 6 is a hydrocarbon-based group R20, it may be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R18 is a hydrocarbon-based group R22, it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • Rn, R19 and R21 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11- C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • x and z which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1.
  • y is equal to 1.
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
  • the anion X is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate.
  • halide chloride, bromide or iodide
  • alkyl sulfate more particularly methyl sulfate.
  • methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium bearing an ester function.
  • the anion X is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.
  • Ri5 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1 ; z is equal to 0 or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2;
  • R16 is chosen from:
  • R18 is chosen from: - the group
  • Ri7, Ri9 and R21 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • the hydrocarbon-based groups are linear.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include the compounds of formula (IV) such as the diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium and monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium salts (chloride or methyl sulfate in particular), and mixtures thereof.
  • the acyl groups preferably contain from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are derived more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.
  • These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with C10-C30 fatty acids or with mixtures of C10-C30 fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of the methyl esters thereof.
  • This esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably a methyl or ethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably a methyl or ethyl sulfate), methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably a methyl or ethyl halide), a
  • composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.
  • Use may also be made of the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride made available by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131.
  • the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
  • the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function which may be used, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethyl- ammonium salts.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) (iii) are preferably chosen from those of formula (I) and those of formula (IV), and even more preferentially from those of formula (I).
  • the cationic surfactant(s) (iii) of the invention are chosen from those of formula (I), more preferentially from behenyltrimethylammonium salts, cetyltrimethylammonium salts, and a mixture of these compounds, and even more preferentially from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and a mixture of these compounds.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) (iii) are present in a total content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5 to 10% by weight, and even more preferentially from 1 to 8% by weight, even better still from 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more polyols.
  • polyol is intended to mean an organic compound constituted of a hydrocarbon-based chain optionally interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms and bearing at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) borne by different carbon atoms, this compound possibly being cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.
  • the polyol(s) that may be used according to the invention comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxyl groups, more preferentially from 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and even more preferentially from 2 to 3 hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyol(s) that may be used according to the invention generally comprise at least three carbon atoms.
  • said polyol(s) that may be used according to the invention are chosen from polyols comprising at least three carbon atoms and ethylene glycol, and are preferably chosen from 1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, sorbitol, and a mixture of these compounds.
  • the polyol(s) that may be used according to the invention are chosen from glycerol, sorbitol or a mixture of these compounds, and preferably the polyol is glycerol.
  • composition according to the invention does not comprise propylene glycol.
  • the polyol(s) are present in a content preferably ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 2 to 15% by weight, and even more preferentially from 5 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention generally comprises water.
  • the water advantageously represents from 10 to 60% by weight, preferably from 15 to 50% by weight, and more preferentially from 20 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise, furthermore, one or more organic solvents other than polyols.
  • the organic solvent(s) other than polyols are chosen from non aromatic Ci-Ce alcohols such as ethyl alcohol or isopropyl alcohol, or aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more organic solvents other than polyols, preferably chosen from ethanol and isopropanol, and a mixture thereof.
  • the organic solvent(s) other than polyols generally represent from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • pH and acidifying or basifying agents generally represent from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the aqueous phase of the composition of the invention is generally between 3 and 8, preferably between 4 and 7, better still between 5 and 6.
  • the pH of the composition according to the invention may be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidifying or basifying agents usually used in cosmetic compositions, or alternatively using standard buffer systems.
  • acidifying agents examples that may be mentioned include mineral acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, (ortho)phosphoric acid, boric acid, nitric acid or sulfuric acid, or organic acids, for instance compounds comprising at least one carboxylic acid function such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, a sulfonic acid function, a phosphonic acid function or a phosphoric acid function.
  • mineral acids for instance hydrochloric acid, (ortho)phosphoric acid, boric acid, nitric acid or sulfuric acid
  • organic acids for instance compounds comprising at least one carboxylic acid function such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, a sulfonic acid function, a phosphonic acid function or a phosphoric acid function.
  • phosphoric acid is used as acidifying agent.
  • the basifying agent(s) may be mineral, organic or hybrid.
  • the mineral alkaline agent(s) are preferably chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium carbonate or bicarbonate, potassium carbonate or bicarbonate, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide or mixtures thereof.
  • the organic alkaline agent(s) are preferably chosen from organic amines with a pKb at 25°C of less than 12, and preferably of less than 10, even more advantageously of less than 6. It should be noted that it is the pKb corresponding to the highest basicity function.
  • the organic amines do not comprise any alkyl or alkenyl fatty chains comprising more than ten carbon atoms.
  • the organic alkaline agent(s) are chosen, for example, from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and the compounds of formula (VIII) below: in which W is a divalent Ci to Ce alkylene radical optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups or a Ci to Ce alkyl radical, and/or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms such as O, or NR U ; Rx, R y , Rz, Rt and R u , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci to Ce alkyl, Ci to Ce hydroxyalkyl or Ci to Ce aminoalkyl radical.
  • amines of formula (VIII) examples include 1,3- diaminopropane, l,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additives.
  • additives that may be used in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives and pigments.
  • antidandruff agents include panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, opacifiers or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives and pigments.
  • Nanoemulsion can be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0% to 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water nanoemulsion of which the particles (or drops) of oil preferably have a volume-average size of less than 500 nm, preferentially of between 10 and 300 nm, and better still between 20 and 250 nm, and even better still between 25 and 200 nm.
  • the volume-average size of the particles (or oil drops) may be determined in particular according to the known laser diffraction method.
  • the particle size analyser of the brand Malvern, model Zetasizer Nano ZS, equipped with a standard laser having a power of 4 mW, and at a wavelength of 633 nm.
  • This device is also equipped with a correlator (25 ns to 8000 s, 4000 channels maxi.).
  • the composition according to the invention generally has very low polydispersity, i.e. the particles have a very homogeneous size.
  • the particles present in the composition according to the invention are liquid oil (or oily phase) particles within the continuous aqueous phase.
  • the composition has a translucent to blueish colour, preferably a blueish colour.
  • the composition according to the invention may have a viscosity ranging for example from 100 to 500 Pa.s, in particular 150 to 475 Pa.s, or even from 200 to 450 Pa.s, the viscosity being measured at ambient temperature (25°C) and a shear rate of 0.1 Hz with an RM180 Rheomat (generally using spindle 1 or 2).
  • the invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, preferably of keratin fibres, in particular of human keratin fibres such as the hair, in which the composition according to the invention is applied to said materials, preferably to said fibres.
  • an effective amount of the composition may be applied to the keratin materials, preferably keratin fibres, followed by an optional rinse after an optional leave-on time.
  • the treatment process comprises a rinsing step after the application of the composition according to the invention.
  • the invention also relates to the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, preferably of keratin fibres, in particular of human keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • compositions according to the invention may be used, for example, as a cleaning composition, or as a pre-treatment or post-treatment composition for shampoos, dyes, permanent waves, bleaches and hair straighteners.
  • the composition according to the invention is a rinse- off or leave-on conditioner care product.
  • composition according to the invention is a rinse-off conditioner care product.
  • compositions A, B and C according to the invention and comparative compositions A' and B' were prepared from the ingredients of which the contents are indicated in the table below: [Table 11
  • compositions A, B and C according to the invention were tested for their use qualities on locks of moderately sensitized wet hair (alkaline solubility of 20%), in particular for their ease of distribution and their ability to transform in terms of texture during application, going from a firm texture to a rich and creamy texture ("on surface” effect). Compositions A, B and C are distributed in the same manner on the hair.
  • compositions A, B and C exhibit a satisfactory "on surface” effect; it is noted that the higher the wax content, the greater the “on surface” effect, and the more the composition will transform into a creamy, or even thickened, composition. ⁇ Sensory evaluation
  • compositions A and B according to the invention were tested for their sensory properties on locks of moderately sensitized wet hair (alkaline solubility of 20%).
  • compositions according to the invention make it possible to give the hair good suppleness, and also good hair-fibre-coating properties, in particular with regard to composition A comprising 12% of wax.
  • compositions A, B and C according to the invention also make it possible to introduce manageability, suppleness, a smooth feel and also good coating properties. ⁇ Rheological characteristics
  • compositions A, B and C according to the invention and of comparative compositions A and B' were analysed using a MARS rheometer (cone-plate 60/1°, Ti, sand-blasted), measurements carried out at 25°C and 0.1 Hz. Spectrum chaining at 0.1% of deformation / from 100 Hz to 0.1 Hz; Flow at 0.1 S-7900 S; 1 s -1 /600 s; 10 s -1 /300 s; 100 s -1 /120 s; 1000 s -1 /30 s.
  • Comparative compositions A' and B' do not exhibit an "on surface” effect; they do not exhibit a firmer texture of the composition during application.
  • compositions A, B and C according to the invention exhibit an "on surface” effect; their text is firmer during application to wet hair. Their viscosities are between 230 and 430 Pa.s, and their G' is between 3000 and 6200 Pa.
  • the presence of wax introduces an "on surface” effect which correlates with the previous sensory evaluations, with regard to the use qualities. The more the wax concentration increases, the more the surface effect increases and the firmer the texture as a result.
  • composition D according to the invention and comparative composition D' were prepared from the ingredients of which the contents (active material, am) are indicated in the table below: [Table 21]
  • compositions are prepared using a high-pressure homogenizer (HPH) at a pressure of 700 bars.
  • HPH high-pressure homogenizer
  • composition D After 2 passages in the HPH, the texture of the composition is already firm, it is not possible to carry out a 3rd passage.
  • Viscosity measurements of the nanoemulsions obtained with the HPH from compositions D and D’ were carried out after 30 secondes, with a RHEOMAT Mettler RM 180 at 200 rpm with respectively mobile number 4 and mobile number 2, and a temperature of 25°C.
  • composition D according to the invention leads to a much higher viscosity than that obtained with the comparative composition D’ .
  • composition D leads to a thick gel composition, whereas a fluid, non-gelled composition is obtained with comparative composition D’ .

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique sous la forme d'une nanoémulsion huile-dans-eau comprenant au moins une substance grasse liquide (i), comprenant de préférence au moins une huile du type triglycéride, au moins une substance grasse solide (ii), au moins un tensioactif particulier (iii) et de l'eau (iv), la teneur totale en substances grasses (i) et (ii) étant supérieure ou égale à 40 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.
PCT/EP2020/083936 2019-12-10 2020-11-30 Composition cosmétique sous la forme d'une nanoémulsion huile-dans-eau comprenant au moins une substance grasse liquide, au moins une substance grasse solide et au moins un tensioactif cationique WO2021115825A1 (fr)

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FR1914042A FR3104031B1 (fr) 2019-12-10 2019-12-10 Composition cosmétique sous forme de nanoémulsion huile-dans-eau comprenant au moins un corps gras liquide, au moins un corps gras solide et au moins un tensioactif cationique

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Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4137180A (en) 1976-07-02 1979-01-30 Lever Brothers Company Fabric treatment materials
US4874554A (en) 1986-07-10 1989-10-17 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Quaternary ammonium compounds
FR2940109A1 (fr) * 2008-12-18 2010-06-25 Natura Cosmeticos Sa Nanoemulsion huile dans l'eau contenant de l'huile de noix du bresil, composition cosmetique et produit cosmetique renfermant cette emulsion et utilisation de cette derniere.
FR3076219A1 (fr) * 2017-12-29 2019-07-05 L'oreal Composition cosmetique sous forme de nanoemulsion huile-dans-eau comprenant au moins 40 % de corps gras, au moins un tensioactif cationique et de l'eau

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US4137180A (en) 1976-07-02 1979-01-30 Lever Brothers Company Fabric treatment materials
US4874554A (en) 1986-07-10 1989-10-17 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Quaternary ammonium compounds
FR2940109A1 (fr) * 2008-12-18 2010-06-25 Natura Cosmeticos Sa Nanoemulsion huile dans l'eau contenant de l'huile de noix du bresil, composition cosmetique et produit cosmetique renfermant cette emulsion et utilisation de cette derniere.
FR3076219A1 (fr) * 2017-12-29 2019-07-05 L'oreal Composition cosmetique sous forme de nanoemulsion huile-dans-eau comprenant au moins 40 % de corps gras, au moins un tensioactif cationique et de l'eau

Non-Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
"Cosmetics and Toiletries", vol. 91, January 1976, TODD & BYERS, article "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics", pages: 27 - 32
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 17 May 2019 (2019-05-17), ANONYMOUS: "Blowout Butter", XP055717629, retrieved from www.gnpd.com Database accession no. 6565649 *
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 19 April 2017 (2017-04-19), ANONYMOUS: "Softening Ointment", XP055717637, retrieved from www.gnpd.com Database accession no. 4751641 *
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 27 November 2019 (2019-11-27), ANONYMOUS: "Intense Repair Hair Mask", XP055717579, retrieved from www.gnpd.com Database accession no. 7062073 *
WALTER NOLL: "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones", 1968, ACADEMIC PRESS

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