WO2021110625A1 - Hair treatment process comprising the application of a composition comprising cationic polymers and organosilanes, followed by a washing step - Google Patents

Hair treatment process comprising the application of a composition comprising cationic polymers and organosilanes, followed by a washing step Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021110625A1
WO2021110625A1 PCT/EP2020/084015 EP2020084015W WO2021110625A1 WO 2021110625 A1 WO2021110625 A1 WO 2021110625A1 EP 2020084015 W EP2020084015 W EP 2020084015W WO 2021110625 A1 WO2021110625 A1 WO 2021110625A1
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group
alkyl
linear
branched
radical
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PCT/EP2020/084015
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French (fr)
Inventor
Sandrine Maggio
Anne-Sophie BRAC DE LA PERRIERE
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L'oreal
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585—Organosilicon compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/002—Preparations for repairing the hair, e.g. hair cure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • Hair treatment process comprising the application of a composition comprising cationic polymers and organosilanes, followed by a washing step
  • the present invention relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of the hair, consisting in sequentially applying a cosmetic pre-shampoo composition comprising one or more cationic polymers and one or more organosilanes, and a cosmetic washing composition comprising one or more anionic surfactants.
  • Hair may be damaged or embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, or by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing.
  • mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing.
  • haircare compositions may be conditioning shampoos or hair conditioners, which may be in the form of hair gels or lotions or more or less thick creams.
  • conditioning agents which are intended mainly to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects brought about by the various treatments or attacking factors to which hair fibres are more or less repeatedly subjected.
  • organosilanes in cosmetic care compositions, to give hair satisfactory conditioning properties.
  • Such compositions are described, for example, in patent applications FR 2910276, EP 2343042 and EP 2111848.
  • care compositions described in these documents afford conditioning and disentangling properties that are not sufficiently long-lasting. Specifically, these properties generally do not sufficiently resist washing and tend to diminish from the first shampoo wash. In other words, even though these haircare compositions make it possible to obtain suitable results during and just after their use (at TO), it was found that these effects had a tendency to disappear gradually with hair washes; it was thus necessary to regularly renew the application of hair treatments to maintain adequate conditioning effects.
  • Application WO 2016/083578 has therefore proposed a hair composition for caring for the hair, capable of affording conditioning properties that are not only satisfactory, but also persistent with respect to washing, for example persistent at least after three shampoo washes.
  • This care composition comprises the combination of organosilanes, cationic polymers of high charge density and cationic surfactants; it can confer on the hair a cosmetic care treatment that is persistent with respect to shampoo washes, in particular softness, suppleness, smoothness, lightness, volume, and a non-greasy, non-laden natural feel.
  • This composition also provides hair with improved disentangling ability. These properties show good resistance to the various attacking factors to which hair may be subjected, such as light, bad weather, washing and perspiration. They are particularly persistent with respect to shampoo washing, especially after at least three shampoo washes.
  • a hair treatment process comprising the sequential application of a composition comprising organosilanes and of a composition for caring for or washing the hair has also been proposed, for example by EP 2 111 849.
  • This document describes in particular the use of a composition comprising an organosilane as a pre-shampoo, that is to say applied to the hair before washing with a shampoo comprising at least one anionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant. This process makes it possible in particular to obtain supple, smooth hair which disentangles well.
  • pre shampoo compositions notably in terms of providing strength (denser, more rigid hair), while at the same time retaining a certain lightness thereof (tonic and tangle- free hair) and also in terms of cosmetic properties such as disentangling and smooth feel; this being immediately, at the time of application of the composition to the hair (at TO), but also persistently, that is to say after several shampoo washes, for example persistence after 2 to 4 shampoo washes.
  • the process according to the invention makes it possible to improve the use qualities of the shampoo used, notably in terms of foam qualities and abundance. Moreover, the hair is much more supple during rinsing.
  • the strand separation of the hair is better and the hair has more body and is more disentangled and fluid, with a smoother visual appearance, and a provision of force.
  • a subject of the present invention is thus a hair treatment process comprising:
  • step (i) of applying to the hair a cosmetic care composition comprising one or more cationic polymers and at least 6% by weight of one or more organosilanes,
  • a step (ii) of washing said hair comprising the application of a cosmetic washing composition comprising one or more anionic surfactants, said step (ii) of washing the hair being carried out at most 60 minutes after said step
  • the process according to the invention makes it possible to give the hair strength and resistance, thus resulting notably in reducing breaking of the hair during subsequent blow drying operations and/or in reducing the presence of split ends of the hair. Moreover, the cosmetic properties such as disentangling and smooth feel (uniform feel from the root to the end) are improved.
  • the process according to the invention allows a reduction in split ends at TO and up to after that 4 applications of a shampoo + mask routine without having to reapply the pre-shampoo beforehand.
  • the hair treatment process according to the invention thus comprises a step (i) that consists in applying to the hair a cosmetic care composition, or pre-shampoo, as defined below.
  • This step may or may not be followed by a leave-on step, for example a leave-on time of from 1 to 15 minutes, in particular 2 to 5 minutes.
  • step (i) may also be optionally followed by a rinsing step, for example rinsing with water, before carrying out step (ii).
  • a rinsing step for example rinsing with water
  • step (i) is followed by a rinsing step.
  • the process according to the invention comprises an intermediate rinsing step between steps (i) and (ii).
  • the hair treatment process according to the invention also comprises a washing step (ii) that consists in applying to the hair a cosmetic washing composition as defined below.
  • This step may or may not be followed by a leave-on step, for example a leave-on time of from 1 to 15 minutes, in particular 2 to 5 minutes. It can also be optionally followed by a rinsing step, for example rinsing with water; and/or by a drying step. Preferably, said washing step (ii) is followed by a rinsing step and optionally by a drying step.
  • step of applying (i) the care composition and the washing step (ii) are carried out successively, or sequentially, which means that one of the application steps is prior to the other application step; it being possible for intermediate steps, for example leave-on and/or rinsing and/or drying steps, to be present between these two steps.
  • the applying step (i) is carried out before the washing step (ii).
  • the time separating said step (i) of applying the care composition (or pre-shampoo) and the step (ii) of washing the hair is at most 60 minutes; it may for example be between 30 seconds and 60 minutes, notably between 1 and 30 minutes, or even between 2 and 20 minutes, even better still between 3 and 15 minutes, and most particularly between 4 and 10 minutes.
  • the term "care composition” denotes a composition which provides haircare, in particular conditioning; it is a cosmetic composition and is in no way a pharmaceutical composition.
  • the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be substituted for said expression; the expression “between ... and” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from ... to” and can be substituted for said expression, and implies that the limits are included.
  • the hair treatment process according to the invention thus comprises a step (i) consisting in applying to the hair a cosmetic care composition comprising one or more cationic polymers and at least 6% by weight of one or more organosilanes.
  • This care composition can be described as a pre-shampoo.
  • composition according to the invention comprises one or more organosilanes, preferably chosen from the compounds of formula (I) and/or oligomers thereof and/or hydrolysis products thereof:
  • R1 is a cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 , in particular C 2 -C 20 , hydrocarbon-based chain, which may be substituted with a group chosen from amine groups NH 2 or NHR (R being a linear or branched C 1 -C 20 , in particular C 1 -C6, alkyl, a C3-C 40 cycloalkyl or a C6-C30 aromatic radical); the hydroxyl group (OH), a thiol group, an aryl group (more particularly benzyl), which is possibly substituted with an NH 2 or NHR group; it being possible for R1 to be interrupted with a heteroatom (0, S or NH) or a carbonyl group (CO),
  • R2 and R3 which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
  • - y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3
  • - z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3
  • oligomer is intended to mean the polymerization products of the compounds of formula (I) comprising from 2 to 10 silicon atoms.
  • R2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, better still a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably the ethyl group.
  • z ranges from 1 to 3.
  • y 0.
  • z 3
  • R1 represents a linear alkyl group comprising from 7 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 7 to 12 carbon atoms, or a Ci-Ce, preferably C2-C4, aminoalkyl group. More particularly, R1 represents an octyl group.
  • R1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain.
  • R1 preferably represents a saturated linear C1-C3 alkyl group, preferably a methyl group.
  • R1 preferably represents a C1-C6, preferably C2-C4, aminoalkyl group.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more organosilanes chosen from methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), octyltriethoxysilane (OTES), dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltriethoxysilane, hexadecyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 2-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3- aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3-(m-aminophenoxy)propyltrimethoxysilane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, N-(2- aminoethylaminomethyl)phenethyltrimethoxysilane, and oligomers thereof, and/or mixtures thereof; and
  • the organosilanes used in the composition of the invention may be partially or totally neutralized in order to improve the water solubility thereof.
  • the neutralizer may be chosen from organic or mineral acids, such as citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid or hydrochloric acid.
  • the optionally neutralized organosilanes according to the invention are water-soluble and especially soluble at a concentration of 2%, better still at a concentration of 5% and even better still at a concentration of 10% by weight in water at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1 atm).
  • the term “soluble” is intended to mean the formation of a single macroscopic phase.
  • the organosilane(s) are present in the care composition according to the invention in a total content of at least 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the care composition, preferably in a total content ranging from 6% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 7% to 15% by weight and better still from 8% to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the care composition.
  • 2/ Cationic polymers are present in the care composition according to the invention in a total content of at least 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the care composition, preferably in a total content ranging from 6% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 7% to 15% by weight and better still from 8% to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the care composition.
  • the cosmetic care composition comprises one or more cationic polymers.
  • cationic polymer is intended to mean any nonsilicone polymer (polymer not comprising any silicon atoms) containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
  • the cationic polymers that can be used preferably have a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 4 milliequivalents/gram (meq/g), better still greater than or equal to 5 meq/g, or even ranging from 5 to 20 meq/g.
  • the cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under conditions in which it is totally ionized. It may be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, i.e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar proportion or weight proportion. It may also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.
  • the cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5x10 6 approximately and preferably between 10 3 and 3x10 6 approximately.
  • the cationic polymers that can be used may be associative or non-associative.
  • association polymer refers to an amphiphilic polymer that is capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combining with itself or with other molecules. It generally includes, in its chemical structure, at least one hydrophilic region or group and at least one hydrophobic region or group.
  • the hydrophobic group may be a fatty hydrocarbon-based chain such as a linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl or linear or branched alkylaryl group comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • cationic polymers mention may be made of:
  • R3 which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a Chh radical
  • - A which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • R1 and R2 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;
  • - X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
  • the copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers that may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C1-C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
  • - quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP, - preferably crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1- C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide.
  • an olefinically unsaturated compound in particular methylenebisacrylamide.
  • Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil.
  • This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba.
  • Use may also be made of a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba;
  • cationic polysaccharides in particular cationic galactomannan gums and celluloses.
  • cationic polysaccharides mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
  • cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are in particular described in FR 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
  • cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in patent US 4 131 576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
  • the commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
  • guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups.
  • Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, a chloride).
  • a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt for example, a chloride.
  • Such products are in particular sold under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 by the company Rhodia;
  • polymers constituted of piperazinyl units and of divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals bearing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers;
  • water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis- haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyamino
  • polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxyl ic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical includes from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl.
  • alkyl radical includes from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl.
  • Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz;
  • Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Flercosett 57 by the company Flercules Inc. or else under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Flercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer;
  • cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium such as the homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II): in which
  • R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
  • R10 and R11 independently of one another, denote a C1-C6 alkyl group, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R10 and R11 may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; R10 and R11 , independently of one another, preferably denote a C1-C4 alkyl group;
  • - Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
  • R13, R14, R15 and R16 which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-C12 hydroxyalkyl aliphatic radicals, or else R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non nitrogen heteroatom; or else R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1 -C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -C0-0-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group, where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group; - A1 and B1 represent linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may contain, linked to or inter
  • - X denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid; it being understood that A1 , R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; in addition, if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 may also denote a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2) P - with n and p, which may be identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting: a) a glycol residue of formula -0-Z-0-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH 2 CH20)x-CH 2 CH2- and -[CH 2 CH(CH3)0]y-CH 2 CH(CH3)-, in which x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree
  • X- is an anion, such as chloride or bromide.
  • Mn number-average molar mass
  • R1 , R2, R3 and R4 which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
  • Ri8, Ri9, R20 and R21 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, b-hydroxyethyl, b-hydroxypropyl or - CH2CH2(OCH2CH2) OH radical, in which p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
  • - r and s which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
  • - X denotes an anion such as a halide
  • - A denotes a divalent dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-0-CH2- CH2-.
  • Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by Miranol;
  • polyamines such as Polyquart® FI sold by Cognis, referred to under the name Polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine in the CTFA dictionary;
  • these polymers may be in particular chosen from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
  • these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).
  • These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.
  • the weight-average molecular weight of said polymer measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g/mol.
  • the polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are in particular sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products provided under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
  • Cationic polymers chosen from those of families (1), (2), (7) and (10) mentioned above are most particularly preferred, better still those of families (1 ), (7) and (10).
  • associative cationic polymers that may be used, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of:
  • R and R’ which may be identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom
  • X and X’ which may be identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group, or alternatively a group L”;
  • L, L’ and L which may be identical or different, represent a group derived from a diisocyanate
  • P and P’ which may be identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group
  • Y represents a hydrophilic group
  • r is an integer between 1 and 100 inclusive, preferably between 1 and 50 inclusive and in particular between 1 and 25 inclusive
  • n, m and p are each, independently of one another, between 0 and 1000 inclusive; the molecule containing at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group.
  • the only hydrophobic groups are the groups R and R’ at the chain ends.
  • R and R’ both independently represent a hydrophobic group
  • X and X’ each represent a group L
  • n and p are integers that are between 1 and 1000 inclusive
  • L, L', L", P, P', Y and m have the meaning indicated above.
  • Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (la) above in which:
  • the polymers do not include any units derived from a monomer containing an amine function, incorporated into the polymer during the polycondensation),
  • the protonated amine functions result from the hydrolysis of excess isocyanate functions, at the chain end, followed by alkylation of the primary amine functions formed with alkylating agents containing a hydrophobic group, i.e. compounds of the type RQ or R’Q, in which R and R’ are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide or a sulfate.
  • R and R’ both independently represent a hydrophobic group
  • L, L’, Y and m have the meaning given above.
  • the number-average molecular weight (Mn) of the cationic associative polyurethanes is preferably between 400 and 500 000 inclusive, in particular between 1000 and 400 000 inclusive and ideally between 1000 and 300 000 inclusive.
  • hydrophobic group is intended to mean a radical or polymer containing a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N or S, or a radical containing a perfluoro or silicone chain.
  • hydrophobic group denotes a hydrocarbon- based radical, it includes at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound.
  • the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.
  • X and/or X’ denote(s) a group comprising a tertiary or quaternary amine
  • X and/or X’ may represent one of the following formulae: in which:
  • R 2 represents a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, 0 and P;
  • Ri and R3 which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical or an aryl radical, at least one of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, 0 and P;
  • A- is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide, or a mesylate.
  • Z represents -0-, -S- or -NH-
  • R 4 represents a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P.
  • the groups P and P' comprising an amine function may represent at least one of the following formulae: in which:
  • R5 and R7 have the same meanings as R 2 defined above;
  • R8 and R9 have the same meanings as Ri and R3 defined above;
  • R 10 represents a linear or branched, optionally unsaturated alkylene group possibly containing one or more heteroatoms chosen from N, O, S and P; and
  • A- is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance chloride or bromide, or mesylate.
  • hydrophilic group is intended to mean a polymeric or non-polymeric water-soluble group.
  • hydrophilic polymer when it is a hydrophilic polymer, in accordance with one preferred embodiment, mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides or a mixture of these polymers.
  • the hydrophilic compound is preferentially a polyether and in particular a poly(ethylene oxide) or polypropylene oxide).
  • the cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (la) are formed from diisocyanates and from various compounds bearing functions containing labile hydrogen.
  • the functions containing labile hydrogen may be alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions, giving, after reaction with the diisocyanate functions, polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas, respectively.
  • the term “polyurethanes” encompasses these three types of polymer, namely polyurethanes per se, polyureas and polythioureas, and also copolymers thereof.
  • a first type of compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (la) is a compound comprising at least one unit bearing an amine function.
  • This compound may be multifunctional, but the compound is preferentially difunctional, that is to say that, according to a preferential embodiment, this compound includes two labile hydrogen atoms borne, for example, by a hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine or thiol function.
  • a mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is low may also be used.
  • this compound may include more than one unit containing an amine function.
  • it is a polymer bearing a repetition of the unit containing an amine function.
  • HZ-(P)n-ZH or HZ-(P') p -ZH, in which Z, P, P', n and p are as defined above.
  • Z, P, P', n and p are as defined above. Examples that may be mentioned include N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert- butyldiethanolamine and N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine.
  • the second compound included in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (la) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the formula:
  • methylenediphenyl diisocyanate By way of example, mention may be made of methylenediphenyl diisocyanate, methylenecyclohexane diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, tolylene diisocyanate, naphthalene diisocyanate, butane diisocyanate and hexane diisocyanate.
  • a third compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (la) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the terminal hydrophobic groups of the polymer of formula (la).
  • This compound is formed from a hydrophobic group and a function containing a labile hydrogen, for example a hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol function.
  • this compound may be a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol.
  • this compound may be, for example, a-hydroxylated hydrogenated polybutadiene.
  • the hydrophobic group of the polyurethane of formula (la) may also result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of the compound comprising at least one tertiary amine unit.
  • the hydrophobic group is introduced via the quaternizing agent.
  • This quaternizing agent is a compound of the type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.
  • the cationic associative polyurethane may also comprise a hydrophilic block.
  • This block is provided by a fourth type of compound involved in the preparation of the polymer.
  • This compound may be multifunctional. It is preferably difunctional. It is also possible to have a mixture in which the percentage of multifunctional compound is low.
  • the functions containing labile hydrogen are alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions. This compound may be a polymer terminated at the chain ends with one of these functions containing labile hydrogen.
  • hydrophilic polymer When it is a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters and sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers.
  • the hydrophilic compound is preferentially a polyether and in particular a polyethylene oxide) or polypropylene oxide).
  • the hydrophilic group termed Y in formula (la) is optional. Specifically, the units containing a quaternary or protonated amine function may suffice to provide the solubility or water-dispersibility required for this type of polymer in an aqueous solution.
  • hydrophilic group Y is optional, cationic associative polyurethanes comprising such a group are, however, preferred.
  • quaternized cellulose derivatives and in particular quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
  • groups comprising at least one fatty chain such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
  • quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
  • R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcNT-, Q- in which Ra, Rb and Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C-i- C30 alkyl, and Q- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide; preferably an alkyl;
  • R' represents an ammonium group R'aR'bR'cN + -, Q' _ in which R'a, R'b and R'c, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl, and Q 1 represents an anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide; preferably an alkyl; it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b and R'c represents a linear or branched C8-C30 alkyl;
  • x and y which may be identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10 000.
  • At least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b and R'c represents a linear or branched C8-C30, better still C10-C24, or even C10-C14, alkyl; mention may be made in particular of the dodecyl radical (C12).
  • the other radical(s) represent a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl, in particular methyl.
  • radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b and R'c represents a linear or branched C8-C30, better still C10-C24, or even C10-C14, alkyl; mention may be made in particular of the dodecyl radical (C12).
  • the other radicals represent a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl, in particular methyl.
  • R may be a group chosen from -N + (CH3)3, Q 1 and - N + (Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q 1 , preferably an -N + (CH3)3, Q 1 group.
  • R' may be a group -N + (Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q 1 .
  • aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
  • C18 alkyl such as the product Crodacel QS®, sold by Croda.
  • R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide; preferentially, R represents trimethylammonium chloride (CH 3 )3N + -, Cl and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride (CH3)2(Ci2H25)N + -, Cl .
  • This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; as commercial products, mention may be made of the Softcat Polymer SL® polymers, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5, from Amerchol/Dow Chemical.
  • the polymers of formula (lb) are those of which the viscosity is between 2000 and 3000 cPs inclusive, preferentially between 2700 and 2800 cPs.
  • Softcat Polymer SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs
  • Softcat Polymer SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs
  • Softcat Polymer SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs
  • Softcat Polymer SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs;
  • - X denotes an oxygen atom or an NR 6 radical
  • Ri and R6 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 -C5 alkyl radical
  • R 2 denotes a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical
  • R 3 , R 4 and R 5 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C 1 -C 30 alkyl radical or a radical of formula (lllc):
  • Yi and Y 2 denote, independently of one another, a linear or branched C 2 -C 16 alkylene radical
  • R 7 denotes a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl radical,
  • - Re denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 -C30 alkyl radical
  • n denote, independently of one another, an integer ranging from 0 to 100 inclusive
  • - x denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100 inclusive
  • - Z denotes an anionic counterion of an organic or mineral acid, such as a halide, for instance chloride or bromide, or mesylate; with the proviso that:
  • R3, R 4 , Rs or Rs denotes a linear or branched C9- C30 alkyl radical
  • the cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crossl inked and may also be block polymers.
  • the counterion Z of the monomers of formula (lc) is chosen from halide ions, phosphate ions, the methosulfate ion and the tosylate ion.
  • R3, R4 and R5 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical.
  • the monomer b) is a monomer of formula (lc) for which, preferentially, m and n are equal to 0.
  • the vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam monomer is preferably a compound of structure (IVc): in which:
  • - s denotes an integer ranging from 3 to 6
  • R 9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 -C 5 alkyl radical
  • R10 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R9 and R10 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • the monomer (IVc) is vinylpyrrolidone.
  • the cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may also contain one or more additional monomers, preferably cationic or non-ionic monomers.
  • terpolymers comprising, by weight, 40% to 95% of monomer (a), 0.1 % to 55% of monomer (c) and 0.25% to 50% of monomer (b) will be used.
  • Such polymers are in particular described in patent application WO- 00/68282.
  • cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, the following are in particular used: vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/dodecyldimethylmethacryla midopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/cocoyldimethylmethacrylami dopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/lauryldimethylmethacrylamid opropylammonium tosylate or chloride terpolymers.
  • the vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/lauryldimethylmethacrylamid opropylammonium chloride terpolymer is in particular sold by ISP under the names Styleze W10® and Styleze W20L® (INCI name: Polyquaternium-55).
  • the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers is preferably between 500 and 20 000 000, more particularly between 200 000 and 2 000 000 and preferentially between 400 000 and 800 000.
  • Such a polymer is, for example, the compound sold by Lubrizol under the name Carbopol Aqua CC® and which corresponds to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer.
  • the associative or non-associative cationic polymers that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers and in particular homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride);
  • the cationic polymer(s) present in the composition according to the invention are chosen from 2-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride (Polyquaternium-37), dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Polyquaternium-6), and mixtures thereof.
  • the care composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic polymer(s) in a total amount of between 0.01 % and 8% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.1 % to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the care composition may optionally comprise one or more organic acids, in particular as neutralizing agent for the organosilane(s).
  • organic acid is intended to mean an organic acid and/or the associated bases thereof with a pKa of less than or equal to 7, preferably less than or equal to 6, especially ranging from 1 to 6 and preferably from 2 to 5.
  • the organic acid(s) are chosen from carboxylic acids, sulfonic acids and mixtures thereof.
  • the organic acid(s) are chosen from saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids.
  • the organic acid(s) are chosen from lactic acid, propanoic acid, butanoic acid, acetic acid, citric acid, maleic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid and mixtures thereof, and more preferably lactic acid.
  • the care composition may comprise the organic acid(s), when they are present, in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 8% by weight and even better still from 3% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the care composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more thickeners, preferably chosen from thickening polymers, and even better still from thickening polysaccharides, which may be of natural or synthetic origin.
  • the polysaccharides may be anionic, non-ionic, cationic or amphoteric; they are preferably anionic or non-ionic.
  • the base units of the polysaccharides may be mono- or disaccharides.
  • the units that may be included in the composition of the polysaccharides are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, fructose, anhydrogalactose. Mention may notably be made, as thickening polysaccharides, of the following polymers, and also derivatives thereof:
  • locust bean gum polymer of mannose and galactose
  • polymers can be physically or chemically modified. Mention may in particular be made, as physical treatment, of the temperature. Chemical treatments that may be mentioned include esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to result in polymers which can be non-ionic, cationic or amphoteric.
  • the non-ionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups. Mention may be made, among the hydroxyalkyl groups, of the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups. These guar gums are well known in the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for instance, propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.
  • the degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably varies from 0.4 to 1 .2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.
  • Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.
  • the guar gums modified with cationic groups which can more particularly be used according to the invention are guar gums comprising trialkylammonium cationic groups.
  • guar gums comprising trialkylammonium cationic groups.
  • from 2% to 30% of the number of the hydroxyl functions of these guar gums carry trialkylammonium cationic groups.
  • 5% to 20% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these guar gums are branched with trialkylammonium cationic groups.
  • these trialkylammonium groups mention may most particularly be made of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum.
  • Guar gums modified with 2,3- epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride may be used according to the invention.
  • the guar gums modified with cationic groups are products already known per se and are, for example, described in patent US 3 589 578. Such products are sold especially under the trade names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15 and Jaguar C 17 by the company Rhodia Chimie.
  • modified locust bean gum of the cationic locust bean gum containing hydroxypropyltrimonium groups, such as Catinal CLB 200 provided by the company Toho.
  • the starch molecules used in the present invention can originate from any plant starch source, in particular cereals and tubers; more particularly, they can be starches from maize, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, pea, oat or tapioca. Use may also be made of the starch hydrolysates mentioned above or other starch derivatives.
  • the starch is preferably derived from potato.
  • the starches can be chemically or physically modified, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation or heat treatments.
  • starch derivatives mention may in particular be made of dextrins.
  • amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups.
  • the anionic and cationic groups may be bonded to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably bonded to the same reactive site.
  • the anionic groups can be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably of carboxylic type.
  • the cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.
  • amphoteric starches are in particular chosen from the compounds having the following formulae: in which:
  • St-0 represents a starch molecule
  • R which may be identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
  • R' which may be identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or a -COOH group; n is an integer equal to 2 or 3,
  • M which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as Na, K, Li or NFU, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine,
  • R" represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C18 alkyl radical.
  • starches of formula (lla) or (Ilia) Use is in particular made of the starches of formula (lla) or (Ilia); and preferably starches modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid, that is to say the starches of formula (lla) or (Ilia) in which R, R', R" and M represent a hydrogen atom and n is equal to 2.
  • the preferred amphoteric starch is a starch chloroethylamidodipropionate.
  • the celluloses and cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non ionic.
  • non-ionic cellulose ethers that may be mentioned are alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses and hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR sold by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed hydroxyalkyl-alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.
  • alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses and hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Nat
  • cationic cellulose ethers mention may be made of crosslinked or non- crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses.
  • the quaternizing agent can in particular be diallyldimethylammonium chloride (for example Celquat L200 from National Starch).
  • the composition preferably comprises one or more thickeners chosen from, alone or as a mixture, non-ionic polysaccharides, better still chosen from, alone or as a mixture, non-ionic cellulose ethers, and notably (Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses and hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses.
  • thickeners chosen from, alone or as a mixture, non-ionic polysaccharides, better still chosen from, alone or as a mixture, non-ionic cellulose ethers, and notably (Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses and hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses.
  • composition according to the invention can comprise the thickener(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise one or more non-ionic polysaccharides in a total amount ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, notably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the care composition may comprise a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with topical application to keratin fibres, in particular the hair.
  • the care composition according to the invention may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and polyethylene glycols; and mixtures thereof.
  • C1-C4 alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol
  • polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and polyethylene glycols
  • the care composition according to the invention comprises a total water content of between 30% and 94% by weight, preferably between 40% and 92%, preferentially between 50% and 90% by weight, even better still between 60% and 88% by weight, or even between 65% and 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the care composition according to the invention generally ranges from 3 to 9, preferably from 3 to 8, preferentially from 3.5 to 7 and better still from 4 to 6, or even from 4.5 to 5.5.
  • the cosmetic care composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one standard cosmetic ingredient, in particular chosen from plant, mineral, animal or synthetic oils; liquid fatty alcohols; liquid fatty esters; solid fatty substances and in particular waxes, solid fatty esters, solid alcohols; anionic, cationic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants; sunscreens; moisturizers; antidandruff agents; antioxidants; pearlescent agents and opacifiers; plasticizers or coalescence agents; preservatives; sequestrants (EDTA and salts thereof); colorants.
  • the composition may of course comprise several cosmetic ingredients featured in the above list. Those skilled in the art will take care to select the ingredients making up the composition, and also the amounts thereof, such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
  • the hair treatment process according to the invention also comprises a step, termed washing step, (ii) that consists in applying to the hair a cosmetic washing composition, comprising one or more anionic surfactants.
  • said washing composition, or shampoo can also comprise one or more amphoteric surfactants and/or one or more non-ionic surfactants.
  • the cosmetic washing composition comprises one or more anionic surfactants.
  • Anionic surfactant is understood to mean a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
  • an entity is described as being "anionic" when it possesses at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized to give a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium or pH, for example) and not comprising a cationic charge.
  • the anionic surfactants may be sulfate, sulfonate and/or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. Very obviously, a mixture of these surfactants can be employed.
  • the carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxyl or carboxylate (-COOH or -COO ) function and can optionally additionally comprise one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate functions;
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3-) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions; and
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not comprise a carboxylate or sulfonate function.
  • the carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used thus include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ).
  • acylglycinates may be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-30 aryl)ether carboxylic acids, alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxyl ic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.
  • carboxylic surfactants mention may be made most particularly of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds sold by Kao under the Akypo names.
  • polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1 ):
  • Rr represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (C8- C9)alkylphenyl radical, a radical R 2 CONH-CH2-CH2- with R 2’ denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical; preferably, Rr is a C8-C20, preferably C8- C18, alkyl radical;
  • - n’ is an integer or decimal number (mean value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10,
  • - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
  • polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that are particularly preferred are those of formula (1) in which:
  • Rr denotes a linear or branched C8-C22, in particular C10-C16 or even Ci 2 -Cu alkyl radical, or alternatively a (C8-C9)alkylphenyl radical;
  • - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom
  • - n’ ranges from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.
  • Rr denotes a Ci 2 -Cu alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical
  • A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom
  • n’ ranges from 2 to 10.
  • carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • - acylglutamates in particular of C6-C24 or even Ci 2 -C 2 o, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;
  • acylsarcosinates in particular of C6-C 24 or even Ci 2 -C 2 o, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;
  • acyllactylates in particular of Ci 2 -C 28 or even C 14 -C 24 , such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;
  • C6-C24 polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; in particular in acid form or in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • Polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof are preferably used.
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used include at least one sulfonate function (-SO 3 H or -SOz ⁇ ).
  • alkylsulfonates alkyl ether sulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a- olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants capable of being used comprise at least one sulfate (-OSO3H or -OSO3 ) function.
  • alkyl sulfates alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
  • alkyl ether sulfates in particular of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; in particular in the form of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • said salt can be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
  • amino alcohol salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1- propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
  • the anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • C 12 -C 20 alkyl ether sulfates preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units
  • acylglycinates in particular in acid form or in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • the composition comprises one or more sulfate anionic surfactants, preferably one or more C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl sulfates, and/or one or more C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, particularly in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • sulfate anionic surfactants preferably one or more C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl sulfates, and/or one or more C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, particularly in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) are preferably present in the washing composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, notably from 4% to 25% by weight, better still from 5% to 20% by weight and even better still from 6% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the washing composition according to the invention may also optionally comprise one or more amphoteric surfactants.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are nonsilicone surfactants. They may in particular be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
  • R a represents a Cio to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R a COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut kernel oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
  • R b represents a b-hydroxyethyl group
  • - M + represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • - X represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (C-i- C4)alkylaryl-sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M + and X- are absent;
  • - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX’
  • - X represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ’, -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2- COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom;
  • - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ' or -CH 2 CH(0H)S0 3 H or the group CH 2 CH(0H)S0 3 -Z';
  • - Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • - Ra’ represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a -COOH which is preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, in particular a CM group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated CM group.
  • cocoamphodiacetate sold by Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.
  • - Y represents the group -COOH, -COOZ" or -CH 2 -CH(0H)S0 3 H or the group CH 2 CH(0H)S0 3 -Z";
  • R d and R e independently of one another, represent a Ci to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical
  • - Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • Ra represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a" -COOH which is preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil;
  • n and n' denote, independently of one another, an integer ranging from 1 to 3. Mention may be made, among the compounds of formula (II), of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by Chimex under the name Chimexane FIB.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants use is preferably made of (Cs- C 2 o)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C 2 o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocam idopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof, and the compounds of formula (IV) such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (Cs- C 2 o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocam idopropylbetaine.
  • the amphoteric surfactant(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, preferentially in a content ranging from 3.5% to 15% by weight and better still from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants, notably such as those described in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pp 116-178.
  • non-ionic surfactants notably such as those described in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pp 116-178.
  • non-ionic surfactants examples include the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:
  • the oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or their combination, preferably oxyethylene units.
  • the number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges in particular from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 10.
  • the non-ionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise any oxypropylene units.
  • they comprise a number of moles of ethylene oxide ranging from 1 to 250, notably from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50.
  • glycerolated non-ionic surfactants use is preferably made of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated Cs to C40 alcohols, comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol and preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol.
  • lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.
  • the glycerolated alcohols it is more particularly preferred to use the Cs to Cio alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the Cio to C12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.
  • non-ionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the washing composition according to the invention are preferentially chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated Cs to C40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide; they preferably include one or two fatty chains;
  • - saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50;
  • - monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated Cs to C40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol and preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol;
  • non-ionic surfactant(s) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated Cs to C40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains, in particular at least one C8-C20 and in particular C10-C18 alkyl chain;
  • the washing composition may comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type of general formula:
  • R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical of which the linear or branched alkyl radical includes 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms; preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
  • R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • - G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably glucose, fructose or galactose; even better still glucose;
  • - 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably 0 to 4, better still from 0 to 3 and even better still 0;
  • - v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization (v) more particularly being between 1 and 2.
  • the glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type.
  • the alkyl (poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl (poly)glucoside surfactant.
  • the washing composition according to the invention comprises the non ionic surfactant(s), when they are present, in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 10% by weight and preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the washing composition.
  • the washing composition according to the invention may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from Ci- C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols; and mixtures thereof.
  • the washing composition according to the invention has a total water content of between 20% and 95% by weight, preferably between 30% and 90%, preferentially between 40% and 85% by weight and even better still between 50% and 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the washing composition according to the invention generally ranges from 3 to 9, preferably from 3 to 7, preferentially from 3.5 to 6 and better still from 4 to 5.5.
  • the cosmetic washing composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one standard cosmetic ingredient, in particular chosen from polymeric or nonpolymeric conditioning agents; mention may in particular be made of cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers, silicones, organomodified silicones such as amino silicones; plant, mineral, animal or synthetic oils; liquid fatty alcohols; liquid fatty esters; solid fatty substances and in particular waxes, solid fatty esters, solid alcohols; ceram ides; sunscreens; moisturizers; antidandruff agents; antioxidants; pearlescent agents and opacifiers; plasticizers or coalescence agents; preservatives; sequestrants (EDTA and salts thereof); colorants.
  • the composition may of course comprise several cosmetic ingredients featured in the above list. Those skilled in the art will take care to select the ingredients making up the composition, and also the amounts thereof, such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
  • Example 1 The following pre-shampoo compositions according to the invention are prepared (% by weight of active material):
  • the pre-shampoo composition C is applied to half a head, on wet and dirty hair (medium-long to long hair), in a proportion of 10 g per half head. It is left on for 3 minutes and then rinsed off with water.
  • a commercial shampoo (comprising in particular 17 g% of sodium lauryl ether sulfate and 3 g% of cocobetaine) is then applied in a proportion of 16 g per head, and is then rinsed off with water.
  • a commercial hair mask (comprising notably cationic surfactants, solid fatty substances and an amino silicone) is applied, in a proportion of 10 g per half head, to the half head which has not received pre-shampoo C, it is left on for 5 minutes and is then rinsed off with water. The hair is then dried with a hairdryer.
  • the application of the pre-shampoo makes it possible to obtain a foam that is much more abundant, and hair that is much more supple during rinsing and smoother in the foam;
  • the hair treated according to the invention is much more tonic; it is stronger, more rigid (resistant to deformation when seeking to bend it); a feeling of having more material is noted (provision of density); faster drying is also noted;
  • the hair treated according to the invention is visually smoother.
  • the provision of strength persists (hair more rigid with provision of density and of body). It is thus noted that the invention makes it possible to provide strength along with lightness, at TO.
  • pre-shampoo composition according to the invention is prepared (% by weight of active material):
  • Locks of natural hair weighing 2.7 g and measuring 25 cm are pre-damaged by automated repeated brushing so as to generate split ends. The number of split ends per 100 strands of hair is counted for each lock.
  • control application of a DOP standard shampoo (0.4 g per gram of lock), rinsing and drying.
  • Protocol 2 application of a commercial shampoo X (sodium laureth sulfate, CAPB, cationic polymer, amino silicone, etc.) (0.4 g per gram of lock), rinsing and drying.
  • shampoo X sodium laureth sulfate, CAPB, cationic polymer, amino silicone, etc.
  • Protocol 3 application of the commercial shampoo X (0.4 g per gram of lock), rinsing; followed by the application of a standard mask Y (fatty alcohol, cationic surfactant, amino silicone, etc.) (0.4 g per gram of lock), leave-on time of 3 minutes, rinsing and drying.
  • a standard mask Y fatty alcohol, cationic surfactant, amino silicone, etc.
  • Protocol 4 application of the pre-shampoo D (0.4 g per gram of lock), leave-on time of 5 minutes then rinsing; followed by application of the commercial shampoo X (0.4 g per gram of lock) then rinsing; followed by application of the standard mask Y (0.4 g per gram of lock), leave-on time of 3 minutes then rinsing and drying.
  • pre-shampoo composition E according to the invention and comparative pre-shampoo composition E’ are prepared (% by weight of active material):
  • the pre-shampoo composition E is applied to one half of a head, and the pre shampoo composition E’ is applied to the other half, on wet and dirty hair (medium- long to long hair), in a proportion of 10 g per half head. They are left on for 3 minutes and then rinsed off with water.
  • a commercial shampoo (comprising notably 17 g% of sodium lauryl ether sulfate and 3 g% of cocobetaine) is then applied to the whole of the head, in a proportion of 16 g per head, and is then rinsed off with water.
  • the expert takes a lock between the thumb and index finger and slides the fingers along the lock from the upper part to the ends. The expert evaluates whether the hair exhibits rough patches, whether it catches the figures, and whether it feels uniform.
  • volume or density
  • composition E according to the invention provided a smoother feel than comparative composition E’.
  • composition E according to the invention provided greater volume than comparative composition E’.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a hair treatment process comprising: - a step (i) of applying to the hair a cosmetic care composition comprising one or more cationic polymers and at least 6% by weight of one or more organosilanes, - then a step (ii) of washing said hair, comprising the application of a cosmetic washing composition comprising one or more anionic surfactants, said step (ii) of washing the hair being carried out at most 60 minutes after said step (i).

Description

DESCRIPTION
Hair treatment process comprising the application of a composition comprising cationic polymers and organosilanes, followed by a washing step
The present invention relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of the hair, consisting in sequentially applying a cosmetic pre-shampoo composition comprising one or more cationic polymers and one or more organosilanes, and a cosmetic washing composition comprising one or more anionic surfactants.
Hair may be damaged or embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, or by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing. To overcome these drawbacks, it is common practice to make use of hair treatments which can condition the hair. These haircare compositions may be conditioning shampoos or hair conditioners, which may be in the form of hair gels or lotions or more or less thick creams.
To improve the cosmetic properties of these compositions, it is known practice to introduce therein conditioning agents, which are intended mainly to repair or limit the harmful or undesirable effects brought about by the various treatments or attacking factors to which hair fibres are more or less repeatedly subjected.
With this aim, it has already been proposed to use, inter alia, organosilanes in cosmetic care compositions, to give hair satisfactory conditioning properties. Such compositions are described, for example, in patent applications FR 2910276, EP 2343042 and EP 2111848.
However, the care compositions described in these documents afford conditioning and disentangling properties that are not sufficiently long-lasting. Specifically, these properties generally do not sufficiently resist washing and tend to diminish from the first shampoo wash. In other words, even though these haircare compositions make it possible to obtain suitable results during and just after their use (at TO), it was found that these effects had a tendency to disappear gradually with hair washes; it was thus necessary to regularly renew the application of hair treatments to maintain adequate conditioning effects.
Application WO 2016/083578 has therefore proposed a hair composition for caring for the hair, capable of affording conditioning properties that are not only satisfactory, but also persistent with respect to washing, for example persistent at least after three shampoo washes. This care composition comprises the combination of organosilanes, cationic polymers of high charge density and cationic surfactants; it can confer on the hair a cosmetic care treatment that is persistent with respect to shampoo washes, in particular softness, suppleness, smoothness, lightness, volume, and a non-greasy, non-laden natural feel. This composition also provides hair with improved disentangling ability. These properties show good resistance to the various attacking factors to which hair may be subjected, such as light, bad weather, washing and perspiration. They are particularly persistent with respect to shampoo washing, especially after at least three shampoo washes.
A hair treatment process comprising the sequential application of a composition comprising organosilanes and of a composition for caring for or washing the hair has also been proposed, for example by EP 2 111 849. This document describes in particular the use of a composition comprising an organosilane as a pre-shampoo, that is to say applied to the hair before washing with a shampoo comprising at least one anionic surfactant and an amphoteric surfactant. This process makes it possible in particular to obtain supple, smooth hair which disentangles well.
However, it is still possible to improve the performance results provided by pre shampoo compositions, notably in terms of providing strength (denser, more rigid hair), while at the same time retaining a certain lightness thereof (tonic and tangle- free hair) and also in terms of cosmetic properties such as disentangling and smooth feel; this being immediately, at the time of application of the composition to the hair (at TO), but also persistently, that is to say after several shampoo washes, for example persistence after 2 to 4 shampoo washes.
The process according to the invention makes it possible to improve the use qualities of the shampoo used, notably in terms of foam qualities and abundance. Moreover, the hair is much more supple during rinsing.
At the end of the process according to the invention, the performance results in terms of tonicity, disentanglement and density are improved on wet hair. Faster drying is moreover observed.
After drying, the strand separation of the hair is better and the hair has more body and is more disentangled and fluid, with a smoother visual appearance, and a provision of force.
Furthermore, the performance results in terms of coating of the hair, density, manageability and strength are persistent with respect to subsequent shampoo washing, and up to 3 shampoo washes, without having to reapply the pre-shampoo.
A subject of the present invention is thus a hair treatment process comprising:
- a step (i) of applying to the hair a cosmetic care composition comprising one or more cationic polymers and at least 6% by weight of one or more organosilanes,
- then a step (ii) of washing said hair, comprising the application of a cosmetic washing composition comprising one or more anionic surfactants, said step (ii) of washing the hair being carried out at most 60 minutes after said step
(i).
The process according to the invention makes it possible to give the hair strength and resistance, thus resulting notably in reducing breaking of the hair during subsequent blow drying operations and/or in reducing the presence of split ends of the hair. Moreover, the cosmetic properties such as disentangling and smooth feel (uniform feel from the root to the end) are improved.
The process according to the invention allows a reduction in split ends at TO and up to after that 4 applications of a shampoo + mask routine without having to reapply the pre-shampoo beforehand.
The hair treatment process according to the invention thus comprises a step (i) that consists in applying to the hair a cosmetic care composition, or pre-shampoo, as defined below.
This step may or may not be followed by a leave-on step, for example a leave-on time of from 1 to 15 minutes, in particular 2 to 5 minutes.
This step may also be optionally followed by a rinsing step, for example rinsing with water, before carrying out step (ii). Preferably, said step (i) is followed by a rinsing step. Thus, preferably, the process according to the invention comprises an intermediate rinsing step between steps (i) and (ii).
The hair treatment process according to the invention also comprises a washing step (ii) that consists in applying to the hair a cosmetic washing composition as defined below.
This step may or may not be followed by a leave-on step, for example a leave-on time of from 1 to 15 minutes, in particular 2 to 5 minutes. It can also be optionally followed by a rinsing step, for example rinsing with water; and/or by a drying step. Preferably, said washing step (ii) is followed by a rinsing step and optionally by a drying step.
The step of applying (i) the care composition and the washing step (ii) are carried out successively, or sequentially, which means that one of the application steps is prior to the other application step; it being possible for intermediate steps, for example leave-on and/or rinsing and/or drying steps, to be present between these two steps.
The applying step (i) is carried out before the washing step (ii).
The time separating said step (i) of applying the care composition (or pre-shampoo) and the step (ii) of washing the hair is at most 60 minutes; it may for example be between 30 seconds and 60 minutes, notably between 1 and 30 minutes, or even between 2 and 20 minutes, even better still between 3 and 15 minutes, and most particularly between 4 and 10 minutes.
In the present description, the term "care composition" denotes a composition which provides haircare, in particular conditioning; it is a cosmetic composition and is in no way a pharmaceutical composition. In the present description, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more" and can be substituted for said expression; the expression "between ... and" is equivalent to the expression "ranging from ... to" and can be substituted for said expression, and implies that the limits are included.
A / Care composition
The hair treatment process according to the invention thus comprises a step (i) consisting in applying to the hair a cosmetic care composition comprising one or more cationic polymers and at least 6% by weight of one or more organosilanes. This care composition can be described as a pre-shampoo.
1/ Organosilanes
The composition according to the invention comprises one or more organosilanes, preferably chosen from the compounds of formula (I) and/or oligomers thereof and/or hydrolysis products thereof:
R1Si(OR2)z(R3)x(OH)y (I) in which:
- R1 is a cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22, in particular C2-C20, hydrocarbon-based chain, which may be substituted with a group chosen from amine groups NH2 or NHR (R being a linear or branched C1-C20, in particular C1-C6, alkyl, a C3-C40 cycloalkyl or a C6-C30 aromatic radical); the hydroxyl group (OH), a thiol group, an aryl group (more particularly benzyl), which is possibly substituted with an NH2 or NHR group; it being possible for R1 to be interrupted with a heteroatom (0, S or NH) or a carbonyl group (CO),
- R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
- y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3,
- z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and
- x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2, with z + x + y = 3.
The term "oligomer" is intended to mean the polymerization products of the compounds of formula (I) comprising from 2 to 10 silicon atoms.
Preferably, R1 is a linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated C1-C22, in particular C2-C12, hydrocarbon-based chain, which may be substituted with an amine group NH2 or NHR (R = C1-C20, in particular C1-C6, alkyl).
Preferably, R2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, better still a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably the ethyl group.
Preferably, z ranges from 1 to 3.
Preferably, y = 0. Preferentially, z = 3, and therefore x = y = 0.
In one embodiment of the invention, R1 represents a linear alkyl group comprising from 7 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 7 to 12 carbon atoms, or a Ci-Ce, preferably C2-C4, aminoalkyl group. More particularly, R1 represents an octyl group.
In another embodiment of the invention, R1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C6 hydrocarbon-based chain. In this variant, R1 preferably represents a saturated linear C1-C3 alkyl group, preferably a methyl group.
In another embodiment of the invention, R1 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based chain, substituted with an amine group NH2 or NHR (R = C1-C20, in particular C1-C6, alkyl, C3-C40 cycloalkyl or C6-C30 aromatic). In this variant, R1 preferably represents a C1-C6, preferably C2-C4, aminoalkyl group.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more organosilanes chosen from methyltriethoxysilane (MTES), octyltriethoxysilane (OTES), dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltriethoxysilane, hexadecyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 2-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3- aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3-(m-aminophenoxy)propyltrimethoxysilane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, N-(2- aminoethylaminomethyl)phenethyltrimethoxysilane, and oligomers thereof, and/or mixtures thereof; and more particularly chosen from methyltriethoxysilane (MTES) and 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), oligomers thereof, hydrolysis products thereof and/or mixtures thereof; and even better still chosen from 3- aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), oligomers thereof and/or hydrolysis products thereof.
The organosilanes used in the composition of the invention, especially those comprising a basic function, may be partially or totally neutralized in order to improve the water solubility thereof. In particular, the neutralizer may be chosen from organic or mineral acids, such as citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid or hydrochloric acid. Preferably, the optionally neutralized organosilanes according to the invention are water-soluble and especially soluble at a concentration of 2%, better still at a concentration of 5% and even better still at a concentration of 10% by weight in water at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1 atm). The term “soluble” is intended to mean the formation of a single macroscopic phase.
The organosilane(s) are present in the care composition according to the invention in a total content of at least 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the care composition, preferably in a total content ranging from 6% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 7% to 15% by weight and better still from 8% to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the care composition. 2/ Cationic polymers
The cosmetic care composition comprises one or more cationic polymers.
The term "cationic polymer" is intended to mean any nonsilicone polymer (polymer not comprising any silicon atoms) containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not containing any anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.
The cationic polymers that can be used preferably have a cationic charge density greater than or equal to 4 milliequivalents/gram (meq/g), better still greater than or equal to 5 meq/g, or even ranging from 5 to 20 meq/g.
The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under conditions in which it is totally ionized. It may be determined by calculation if the structure of the polymer is known, i.e. the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar proportion or weight proportion. It may also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.
The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5x106 approximately and preferably between 103 and 3x106 approximately.
The cationic polymers that can be used may be associative or non-associative.
The term "associative polymer" refers to an amphiphilic polymer that is capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combining with itself or with other molecules. It generally includes, in its chemical structure, at least one hydrophilic region or group and at least one hydrophobic region or group. In particular, the hydrophobic group may be a fatty hydrocarbon-based chain such as a linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl or linear or branched alkylaryl group comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made of:
(1 ) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units having the following formula: in which:
- R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a Chh radical;
- A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;
- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers that may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C1-C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.
Among these copolymers of family (1 ), mention may be made of:
- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules,
- copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the products sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,
- the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as that sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,
- quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937,
- dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,
- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as the copolymers sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP,
- quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP, - preferably crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(C1-C4)alkyltri(C1- C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. Use may also be made of a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba;
(2) cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic galactomannan gums and celluloses. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.
The cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are in particular described in FR 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
The cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in patent US 4 131 576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, a chloride). Such products are in particular sold under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 by the company Rhodia;
(3) polymers constituted of piperazinyl units and of divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals bearing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers;
(4) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis- haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they include one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized;
(5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxyl ic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical includes from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz;
(6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1 ; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Flercosett 57 by the company Flercules Inc. or else under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Flercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer;
(7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II):
Figure imgf000011_0001
in which
- k and t are equal to 0 or 1 , the sum k + t being equal to 1 ;
- R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
- R10 and R11 , independently of one another, denote a C1-C6 alkyl group, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R10 and R11 may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; R10 and R11 , independently of one another, preferably denote a C1-C4 alkyl group;
- Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride) for example sold under the name Merquat lOO by the company Nalco and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide, in particular sold under the name Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR;
(8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula:
Figure imgf000011_0002
in which:
- R13, R14, R15 and R16, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-C12 hydroxyalkyl aliphatic radicals, or else R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non nitrogen heteroatom; or else R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1 -C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -C0-0-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group, where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group; - A1 and B1 represent linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
- X denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid; it being understood that A1 , R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; in addition, if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 may also denote a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)P- with n and p, which may be identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting: a) a glycol residue of formula -0-Z-0-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2CH20)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)0]y-CH2CH(CH3)-, in which x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or else the divalent radical -CH2- CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-; d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.
Preferably, X- is an anion, such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100 000.
Mention may be made more particularly of polymers that are constituted of repeating units corresponding to the formula:
Figure imgf000012_0001
in which R1 , R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
A particularly preferred compound of formula (IV) is the one for which R1 , R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical and n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature;
(9) polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V): in which:
- Ri8, Ri9, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, b-hydroxyethyl, b-hydroxypropyl or - CH2CH2(OCH2CH2) OH radical, in which p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
- r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
- q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
- X denotes an anion such as a halide,
- A denotes a divalent dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-0-CH2- CH2-.
Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1, Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by Miranol;
(10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF;
(11) polyamines such as Polyquart® FI sold by Cognis, referred to under the name Polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine in the CTFA dictionary;
(12) polymers comprising in their structure:
(a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:
-CH2- CH —
NH2 (A)
(b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:
Figure imgf000013_0001
In other words, these polymers may be in particular chosen from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).
These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.
The weight-average molecular weight of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g/mol.
The polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are in particular sold under the name Lupamin by the company BASF, for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products provided under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.
Cationic polymers chosen from those of families (1), (2), (7) and (10) mentioned above are most particularly preferred, better still those of families (1 ), (7) and (10).
Among the associative cationic polymers that may be used, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of:
- (A) cationic associative polyurethanes, which can be represented by general formula (la) below: R-X-(P)n-[L-(Y)m]r-L'-(P')p-X'-R' in which:
R and R’, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom;
X and X’, which may be identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group, or alternatively a group L”;
L, L’ and L”, which may be identical or different, represent a group derived from a diisocyanate;
P and P’, which may be identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group;
Y represents a hydrophilic group; r is an integer between 1 and 100 inclusive, preferably between 1 and 50 inclusive and in particular between 1 and 25 inclusive; n, m and p are each, independently of one another, between 0 and 1000 inclusive; the molecule containing at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group.
Preferably, the only hydrophobic groups are the groups R and R’ at the chain ends.
One preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (la) described above, in which:
R and R’ both independently represent a hydrophobic group,
X and X’ each represent a group L", n and p are integers that are between 1 and 1000 inclusive, and L, L', L", P, P', Y and m have the meaning indicated above.
Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (la) above in which:
- n = p = 0 (the polymers do not include any units derived from a monomer containing an amine function, incorporated into the polymer during the polycondensation),
- the protonated amine functions result from the hydrolysis of excess isocyanate functions, at the chain end, followed by alkylation of the primary amine functions formed with alkylating agents containing a hydrophobic group, i.e. compounds of the type RQ or R’Q, in which R and R’ are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide or a sulfate.
Yet another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (la) above in which:
R and R’ both independently represent a hydrophobic group,
X and X’ both independently represent a group comprising a quaternary amine, n = p = 0, and
L, L’, Y and m have the meaning given above.
The number-average molecular weight (Mn) of the cationic associative polyurethanes is preferably between 400 and 500 000 inclusive, in particular between 1000 and 400 000 inclusive and ideally between 1000 and 300 000 inclusive.
The term “hydrophobic group” is intended to mean a radical or polymer containing a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N or S, or a radical containing a perfluoro or silicone chain. When the hydrophobic group denotes a hydrocarbon- based radical, it includes at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound.
By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.
When X and/or X’ denote(s) a group comprising a tertiary or quaternary amine, X and/or X’ may represent one of the following formulae: in which:
R2 represents a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, 0 and P;
Ri and R3, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical or an aryl radical, at least one of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, 0 and P;
A- is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide, or a mesylate.
The groups L, L' and L" represent a group of formula:
Figure imgf000016_0001
in which:
Z represents -0-, -S- or -NH-; and
R4 represents a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P.
The groups P and P' comprising an amine function may represent at least one of the following formulae: in which:
R5 and R7 have the same meanings as R2 defined above;
Re, R8 and R9 have the same meanings as Ri and R3 defined above;
R10 represents a linear or branched, optionally unsaturated alkylene group possibly containing one or more heteroatoms chosen from N, O, S and P; and A- is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance chloride or bromide, or mesylate.
As regards the meaning of Y, the term “hydrophilic group” is intended to mean a polymeric or non-polymeric water-soluble group.
By way of example, when it is not a polymer, mention may be made of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.
When it is a hydrophilic polymer, in accordance with one preferred embodiment, mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides or a mixture of these polymers. The hydrophilic compound is preferentially a polyether and in particular a poly(ethylene oxide) or polypropylene oxide).
The cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (la) according to the invention are formed from diisocyanates and from various compounds bearing functions containing labile hydrogen. The functions containing labile hydrogen may be alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions, giving, after reaction with the diisocyanate functions, polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas, respectively. In the present invention, the term “polyurethanes” encompasses these three types of polymer, namely polyurethanes per se, polyureas and polythioureas, and also copolymers thereof.
A first type of compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (la) is a compound comprising at least one unit bearing an amine function. This compound may be multifunctional, but the compound is preferentially difunctional, that is to say that, according to a preferential embodiment, this compound includes two labile hydrogen atoms borne, for example, by a hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine or thiol function. A mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is low may also be used.
As mentioned above, this compound may include more than one unit containing an amine function. In this case, it is a polymer bearing a repetition of the unit containing an amine function.
Compounds of this type may be represented by one of the following formulae: HZ-(P)n-ZH, or HZ-(P')p-ZH, in which Z, P, P', n and p are as defined above. Examples that may be mentioned include N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert- butyldiethanolamine and N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine.
The second compound included in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (la) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the formula:
0=C=N-R4-N=C=0 in which F is defined above.
By way of example, mention may be made of methylenediphenyl diisocyanate, methylenecyclohexane diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, tolylene diisocyanate, naphthalene diisocyanate, butane diisocyanate and hexane diisocyanate.
A third compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (la) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the terminal hydrophobic groups of the polymer of formula (la).
This compound is formed from a hydrophobic group and a function containing a labile hydrogen, for example a hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol function.
By way of example, this compound may be a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. When this compound includes a polymeric chain, it may be, for example, a-hydroxylated hydrogenated polybutadiene.
The hydrophobic group of the polyurethane of formula (la) may also result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of the compound comprising at least one tertiary amine unit. Thus, the hydrophobic group is introduced via the quaternizing agent. This quaternizing agent is a compound of the type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.
The cationic associative polyurethane may also comprise a hydrophilic block. This block is provided by a fourth type of compound involved in the preparation of the polymer. This compound may be multifunctional. It is preferably difunctional. It is also possible to have a mixture in which the percentage of multifunctional compound is low.
The functions containing labile hydrogen are alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions. This compound may be a polymer terminated at the chain ends with one of these functions containing labile hydrogen.
By way of example, when it is not a polymer, mention may be made of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.
When it is a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters and sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. The hydrophilic compound is preferentially a polyether and in particular a polyethylene oxide) or polypropylene oxide).
The hydrophilic group termed Y in formula (la) is optional. Specifically, the units containing a quaternary or protonated amine function may suffice to provide the solubility or water-dispersibility required for this type of polymer in an aqueous solution.
Although the presence of a hydrophilic group Y is optional, cationic associative polyurethanes comprising such a group are, however, preferred.
- (B) quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
Preferably, mention may be made of quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof.
Preferentially, mention may be made of the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (lb):
Figure imgf000019_0001
in which:
- R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcNT-, Q- in which Ra, Rb and Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C-i- C30 alkyl, and Q- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide; preferably an alkyl;
- R' represents an ammonium group R'aR'bR'cN+-, Q'_ in which R'a, R'b and R'c, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl, and Q1 represents an anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide; preferably an alkyl; it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b and R'c represents a linear or branched C8-C30 alkyl;
- n, x and y, which may be identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10 000.
Preferably, in formula (lb), at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b and R'c represents a linear or branched C8-C30, better still C10-C24, or even C10-C14, alkyl; mention may be made in particular of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, the other radical(s) represent a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl, in particular methyl. Preferably, in formula (lb), only one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b and R'c represents a linear or branched C8-C30, better still C10-C24, or even C10-C14, alkyl; mention may be made in particular of the dodecyl radical (C12). Preferably, the other radicals represent a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl, in particular methyl.
Even better still, R may be a group chosen from -N+(CH3)3, Q1 and - N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q1 , preferably an -N+(CH3)3, Q1 group.
Even better still, R' may be a group -N+(Ci2H25)(CH3)2, Q1 .
The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
Mention may notably be made of the polymers having the following INCI names:
- Polyquaternium-24, such as the product Quatrisoft LM 200®, sold by Amerchol/Dow Chemical;
- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride, such as the product Crodacel QM®;
- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride (C12 alkyl), such as the product Crodacel QL®; and
- PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride (C18 alkyl), such as the product Crodacel QS®, sold by Croda.
Mention may also be made of the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (lb) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide; preferentially, R represents trimethylammonium chloride (CH3)3N+-, Cl and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride (CH3)2(Ci2H25)N+-, Cl . This type of polymer is known under the INCI name Polyquaternium-67; as commercial products, mention may be made of the Softcat Polymer SL® polymers, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5, from Amerchol/Dow Chemical.
More particularly, the polymers of formula (lb) are those of which the viscosity is between 2000 and 3000 cPs inclusive, preferentially between 2700 and 2800 cPs. Typically, Softcat Polymer SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs and Softcat Polymer SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs;
- (C) cationic polyvinyllactams, in particular those comprising:
-a) at least one monomer of vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam type; -b) at least one monomer of structure (lc) or (lie) below:
Figure imgf000021_0001
PS
CH—C(R1}-C0-X-(Y)-(CH2-CH2-0)-(CH2-CH(R2)-0 )-(¥,)—
(lie) R4 in which:
- X denotes an oxygen atom or an NR6 radical,
- Ri and R6 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical,
- R2 denotes a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical,
- R3, R4 and R5 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical or a radical of formula (lllc):
- (Y2)r (CH2-CH(R7)-0)- Rg (lllc)
- Y, Yi and Y2 denote, independently of one another, a linear or branched C2-C16 alkylene radical,
- R7 denotes a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical or a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical,
- Re denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical,
- p, q and r denote, independently of one another, 0 or 1 ,
- m and n denote, independently of one another, an integer ranging from 0 to 100 inclusive,
- x denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100 inclusive,
- Z denotes an anionic counterion of an organic or mineral acid, such as a halide, for instance chloride or bromide, or mesylate; with the proviso that:
- at least one of the substituents R3, R4, Rs or Rs denotes a linear or branched C9- C30 alkyl radical,
- if m and/or n is other than zero, then q is equal to 1 ,
- if m = n = 0, then p or q is equal to 0.
The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crossl inked and may also be block polymers.
Preferably, the counterion Z of the monomers of formula (lc) is chosen from halide ions, phosphate ions, the methosulfate ion and the tosylate ion.
Preferably, R3, R4 and R5 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical.
More preferentially, the monomer b) is a monomer of formula (lc) for which, preferentially, m and n are equal to 0.
The vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam monomer is preferably a compound of structure (IVc):
Figure imgf000022_0001
in which:
- s denotes an integer ranging from 3 to 6,
- R9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical,
- R10 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R9 and R10 denotes a hydrogen atom.
Even more preferentially, the monomer (IVc) is vinylpyrrolidone.
The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may also contain one or more additional monomers, preferably cationic or non-ionic monomers.
As compounds that are particularly preferred, mention may be made of the following terpolymers comprising at least: a) one monomer of formula (IVc), b) a monomer of formula (lc) in which p = 1 , m = n = q = 0, R3 and R4 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a C1-C5 alkyl radical and R5 denotes a linear or branched C9-C24 alkyl radical, and c) a monomer of formula (lie) in which p = 1 , m = n = q = 0, and R3 and R4 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical.
Even more preferentially, terpolymers comprising, by weight, 40% to 95% of monomer (a), 0.1 % to 55% of monomer (c) and 0.25% to 50% of monomer (b) will be used. Such polymers are in particular described in patent application WO- 00/68282.
As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, the following are in particular used: vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/dodecyldimethylmethacryla midopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/cocoyldimethylmethacrylami dopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/lauryldimethylmethacrylamid opropylammonium tosylate or chloride terpolymers.
The vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/lauryldimethylmethacrylamid opropylammonium chloride terpolymer is in particular sold by ISP under the names Styleze W10® and Styleze W20L® (INCI name: Polyquaternium-55).
The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers is preferably between 500 and 20 000 000, more particularly between 200 000 and 2 000 000 and preferentially between 400 000 and 800 000.
- (D) the cationic polymers obtained by polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising one or more vinyl monomers substituted with one or more amino groups, one or more hydrophobic non-ionic vinyl monomers, and one or more associative vinyl monomers, as described in patent application WO 2004/024779.
Among these polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the products of polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising:
- a di(Ci-C4 alkyl)amino(Ci-C6 alkyl) methacrylate,
- one or more C1-C30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid,
- a polyethoxylated C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate (20-25 mol of ethylene oxide unit),
- a 30/5 polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol allyl ether,
- a hydroxy(C2-C6 alkyl) methacrylate, and
- an ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.
Such a polymer is, for example, the compound sold by Lubrizol under the name Carbopol Aqua CC® and which corresponds to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer.
Preferably, the associative or non-associative cationic polymers that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers, and in particular homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride);
- optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci- C4)alkyltri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts;
- quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole;
- the cationic polymers (B) derived from quaternized cellulose, and the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (lb) above.
Mention may notably be made of the polymers having the INCI name: Polyquaternium-6, Polyquaternium-7, Polyquaternium-37 and Polyquaternium-67, alone or as a mixture.
Even better still, the cationic polymer(s) present in the composition according to the invention are chosen from 2-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride (Polyquaternium-37), dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Polyquaternium-6), and mixtures thereof.
The care composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic polymer(s) in a total amount of between 0.01 % and 8% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.1 % to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
3/ Organic acids
The care composition may optionally comprise one or more organic acids, in particular as neutralizing agent for the organosilane(s).
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "organic acid" is intended to mean an organic acid and/or the associated bases thereof with a pKa of less than or equal to 7, preferably less than or equal to 6, especially ranging from 1 to 6 and preferably from 2 to 5.
According to a preferred embodiment, the organic acid(s) are chosen from carboxylic acids, sulfonic acids and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the organic acid(s) are chosen from saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids. Preferably, the organic acid(s) are chosen from lactic acid, propanoic acid, butanoic acid, acetic acid, citric acid, maleic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid and mixtures thereof, and more preferably lactic acid.
The care composition may comprise the organic acid(s), when they are present, in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 8% by weight and even better still from 3% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
4/ Thickener
The care composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more thickeners, preferably chosen from thickening polymers, and even better still from thickening polysaccharides, which may be of natural or synthetic origin. The polysaccharides may be anionic, non-ionic, cationic or amphoteric; they are preferably anionic or non-ionic.
The base units of the polysaccharides may be mono- or disaccharides. The units that may be included in the composition of the polysaccharides are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, fructose, anhydrogalactose. Mention may notably be made, as thickening polysaccharides, of the following polymers, and also derivatives thereof:
- guar gum (polymer of mannose and galactose),
- locust bean gum (polymer of mannose and galactose),
- fenugreek gum (polymer of mannose and galactose),
- tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose),
- konjac gum (polymer of glucose and mannose),
- scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer),
- cellulose (glucose polymer),
- starch (glucose polymer),
- inulin (polymer of fructose and glucose).
These polymers can be physically or chemically modified. Mention may in particular be made, as physical treatment, of the temperature. Chemical treatments that may be mentioned include esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to result in polymers which can be non-ionic, cationic or amphoteric.
The non-ionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups. Mention may be made, among the hydroxyalkyl groups, of the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups. These guar gums are well known in the prior art and may be prepared, for example, by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, for instance, propylene oxides, with the guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups. The degree of hydroxyalkylation preferably varies from 0.4 to 1 .2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum. Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120 by the company Rhodia Chimie.
The guar gums modified with cationic groups which can more particularly be used according to the invention are guar gums comprising trialkylammonium cationic groups. Preferably, from 2% to 30% of the number of the hydroxyl functions of these guar gums carry trialkylammonium cationic groups. Even more preferentially, 5% to 20% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these guar gums are branched with trialkylammonium cationic groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may most particularly be made of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferentially, these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. Guar gums modified with 2,3- epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride may be used according to the invention. The guar gums modified with cationic groups are products already known per se and are, for example, described in patent US 3 589 578. Such products are sold especially under the trade names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15 and Jaguar C 17 by the company Rhodia Chimie.
Use may be made, as modified locust bean gum, of the cationic locust bean gum containing hydroxypropyltrimonium groups, such as Catinal CLB 200 provided by the company Toho.
The starch molecules used in the present invention can originate from any plant starch source, in particular cereals and tubers; more particularly, they can be starches from maize, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum, pea, oat or tapioca. Use may also be made of the starch hydrolysates mentioned above or other starch derivatives. The starch is preferably derived from potato. The starches can be chemically or physically modified, in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidation or heat treatments.
More particularly, these reactions may be performed in the following manner:
- pregelatinization by splitting the starch granules (for example drying and cooking in a drying drum);
- oxidation with strong oxidizing agents, resulting in the introduction of carboxyl groups into the starch molecule and in the depolymerization of the starch molecule (for example by treating an aqueous starch solution with sodium hypochlorite);
- crosslinking with functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups of the starch molecules, which will thus be bonded together (for example with glyceryl and/or phosphate groups);
- esterification in alkaline medium for the grafting of functions, especially C1-C6 acyl (acetyl), C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl (hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl), carboxymethyl or octenylsuccinic.
Among the starch derivatives, mention may in particular be made of dextrins.
According to the invention, use may also be made of amphoteric starches comprising one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be bonded to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably bonded to the same reactive site. The anionic groups can be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably of carboxylic type. The cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.
The amphoteric starches are in particular chosen from the compounds having the following formulae: in which:
St-0 represents a starch molecule,
R, which may be identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
R', which may be identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or a -COOH group; n is an integer equal to 2 or 3,
M, which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as Na, K, Li or NFU, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine,
R" represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C18 alkyl radical.
Use is in particular made of the starches of formula (lla) or (Ilia); and preferably starches modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid, that is to say the starches of formula (lla) or (Ilia) in which R, R', R" and M represent a hydrogen atom and n is equal to 2. The preferred amphoteric starch is a starch chloroethylamidodipropionate.
The celluloses and cellulose derivatives can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non ionic. Among these derivatives, mention may be made of cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers.
Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers that may be mentioned are alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel Standard 100 Premium from Dow Chemical); hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses and hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR sold by Aqualon) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from Aqualon); mixed hydroxyalkyl-alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical), hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses (for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from Akzo Nobel) and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.
Among the cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of crosslinked or non- crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses. The quaternizing agent can in particular be diallyldimethylammonium chloride (for example Celquat L200 from National Starch). Mention may be made, as other cationic cellulose ether, of hydroxyethylcellulose hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium (for example Ucare polymer JR 400 from Amerchol).
The composition preferably comprises one or more thickeners chosen from, alone or as a mixture, non-ionic polysaccharides, better still chosen from, alone or as a mixture, non-ionic cellulose ethers, and notably (Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses and hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses.
The composition according to the invention can comprise the thickener(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more non-ionic polysaccharides in a total amount ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, notably from 0.2% to 5% by weight, preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
5/ Other ingredients
The care composition may comprise a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with topical application to keratin fibres, in particular the hair.
The care composition according to the invention may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from C1-C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and polyethylene glycols; and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the care composition according to the invention comprises a total water content of between 30% and 94% by weight, preferably between 40% and 92%, preferentially between 50% and 90% by weight, even better still between 60% and 88% by weight, or even between 65% and 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The pH of the care composition according to the invention generally ranges from 3 to 9, preferably from 3 to 8, preferentially from 3.5 to 7 and better still from 4 to 6, or even from 4.5 to 5.5.
The cosmetic care composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one standard cosmetic ingredient, in particular chosen from plant, mineral, animal or synthetic oils; liquid fatty alcohols; liquid fatty esters; solid fatty substances and in particular waxes, solid fatty esters, solid alcohols; anionic, cationic, amphoteric and non-ionic surfactants; sunscreens; moisturizers; antidandruff agents; antioxidants; pearlescent agents and opacifiers; plasticizers or coalescence agents; preservatives; sequestrants (EDTA and salts thereof); colorants. The composition may of course comprise several cosmetic ingredients featured in the above list. Those skilled in the art will take care to select the ingredients making up the composition, and also the amounts thereof, such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
B / Washing composition
The hair treatment process according to the invention also comprises a step, termed washing step, (ii) that consists in applying to the hair a cosmetic washing composition, comprising one or more anionic surfactants.
In a known manner, said washing composition, or shampoo, can also comprise one or more amphoteric surfactants and/or one or more non-ionic surfactants.
1/ Anionic surfactants
The cosmetic washing composition comprises one or more anionic surfactants. Anionic surfactant is understood to mean a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
In the present description, an entity is described as being "anionic" when it possesses at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized to give a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (medium or pH, for example) and not comprising a cationic charge.
The anionic surfactants may be sulfate, sulfonate and/or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. Very obviously, a mixture of these surfactants can be employed.
It is understood, in the present description, that:
- the carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxyl or carboxylate (-COOH or -COO ) function and can optionally additionally comprise one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate functions;
- the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SO3-) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions; and
- the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not comprise a carboxylate or sulfonate function.
The carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used thus include at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ).
They may be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-30 aryl)ether carboxylic acids, alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Use may also be made of the C6-C24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside- polycarboxyl ic acids, such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.
Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may be made most particularly of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds sold by Kao under the Akypo names.
The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1 ):
Rr-(OC2H4)n'-OCH2COOA (1) in which:
- Rr represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, a (C8- C9)alkylphenyl radical, a radical R2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2’ denoting a linear or branched C9-C21 alkyl or alkenyl radical; preferably, Rr is a C8-C20, preferably C8- C18, alkyl radical;
- n’ is an integer or decimal number (mean value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10,
- A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
Use may also be made of mixtures of compounds of formula (1), in particular mixtures of compounds bearing different groups Rr.
The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that are particularly preferred are those of formula (1) in which:
- Rr denotes a linear or branched C8-C22, in particular C10-C16 or even Ci2-Cu alkyl radical, or alternatively a (C8-C9)alkylphenyl radical;
- A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom, and
- n’ ranges from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.
Even more preferentially, use is made of the compounds of formula (1 ) in which Rr denotes a Ci2-Cu alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and n’ ranges from 2 to 10.
Among the commercial products that may preferably be used are the products sold by KAO under the names:
Akypo® NP 70 (Ri = nonylphenyl, n = 7, A = H)
Akypo® NP 40 (Ri = nonylphenyl, n = 4, A = H)
Akypo® OP 40 (Ri = octylphenyl, n = 4, A = H)
Akypo® OP 80 (Ri = octylphenyl, n = 8, A = H)
Akypo® OP 190 (Ri = octylphenyl, n = 19, A = H)
Akypo® RLM 38 (Ri = (Ci2-Cu)alkyl, n = 4, A = H)
Akypo® RLM 38 NV (Ri = (Ci2-Cu)alkyl, n = 4, A = Na)
Akypo® RLM 45 CA (Ri = (Ci2-Cu)alkyl, n = 4.5, A = H)
Akypo® RLM 45 NV (Ri = (Ci2-Cu)alkyl, n = 4.5, A = Na)
Akypo® RLM 100 (Ri = (Ci2-Cu)alkyl, n = 10, A = H)
Akypo® RLM 100 NV (Ri = (Ci2-Cu)alkyl, n = 10, A = Na)
Akypo® RLM 130 (Ri = (Ci2-Cu)alkyl, n = 13, A = H)
Akypo® RLM 160 NV (Ri = (Ci2-Cu)alkyl, n = 16, A = Na), or by the company Sandoz under the names:
Sandopan DTC-Acid (Ri = (Ci3)alkyl, n = 6, A = H)
Sandopan DTC (Ri = (Ci3)alkyl, n = 6, A = Na)
Sandopan LS 24 (Ri = (Ci2-Cu)alkyl, n = 12, A = Na)
Sandopan JA 36 (Ri = (Ci3)alkyl, n = 18, A = H), and more particularly the products sold under the following names:
Akypo® RLM 45 (INCI: Laureth-5 carboxylic acid)
Akypo® RLM 100 Akypo® RLM 38.
Preferentially, the carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- acylglutamates, in particular of C6-C24 or even Ci2-C2o, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;
- acylsarcosinates, in particular of C6-C24 or even Ci2-C2o, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;
- acyllactylates, in particular of Ci2-C28 or even C14-C24, such as behenoyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;
- C6-C24 and in particular Ci2-C2o acylglycinates;
- (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates, and in particular (Ci2-C2o)alkyl ether carboxylates; in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;
- polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; in particular in acid form or in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
Polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof are preferably used. The sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used include at least one sulfonate function (-SO3H or -SOz~). They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkylsulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a- olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Preferentially, the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
- C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 olefin sulfonates;
- C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates;
- C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
- (C6-C24)acylisethionates and preferably (Ci2-Ci8)acylisethionates; in particular in the form of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
The sulfate anionic surfactants capable of being used comprise at least one sulfate (-OSO3H or -OSO3 ) function.
They may be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and the salts of these compounds; the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
Preferentially, the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
- alkyl sulfates, in particular of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, and
- alkyl ether sulfates, in particular of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; in particular in the form of alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
When the anionic surfactant is in the salt form, said salt can be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
Mention may be made, as examples of amino alcohol salts, of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1- propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
Preferentially, the anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl sulfates;
- C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
- C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates;
- C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 olefin sulfonates;
- C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
- (C6-C24)acylisethionates and preferably (Ci2-Ci8)acylisethionates;
C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 acylsarcosinates; in particular palmitoylsarcosinates;
- (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably (Ci2-C2o)alkyl ether carboxylates; in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;
- polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups;
- C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 acylglutamates;
- C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 acylglycinates; in particular in acid form or in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
Preferentially, the composition comprises one or more sulfate anionic surfactants, preferably one or more C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl sulfates, and/or one or more C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, particularly in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
The anionic surfactant(s) are preferably present in the washing composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, notably from 4% to 25% by weight, better still from 5% to 20% by weight and even better still from 6% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
21 Amphoteric surfactants The washing composition according to the invention may also optionally comprise one or more amphoteric surfactants.
In particular, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are nonsilicone surfactants. They may in particular be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
Mention may in particular be made of (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (Cs- C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and (Cs- C2o)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylsulfobetaines.
Among the optionally quaternized derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds having the respective structures (II) and (III) below:
Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO-, M+, X (II) in which:
- Ra represents a Cio to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut kernel oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
- Rb represents a b-hydroxyethyl group; and
- Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;
- M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and
- X represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C4)alkyl- or (C-i- C4)alkylaryl-sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M+ and X- are absent;
Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (III) in which:
- B represents the group -CH2CH2OX’;
- B' represents the group -(CH2)ZY\ with z = 1 or 2;
- X represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ’, -CH2CH2COOH or CH2CH2- COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom;
- Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ' or -CH2CH(0H)S03H or the group CH2CH(0H)S03-Z';
- Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
- Ra’ represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra-COOH which is preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, in particular a CM group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated CM group.
These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.
Use may also be made of compounds of formula (IV):
Ra"-NHCH(Y")-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)n'-N(Rd)(Re) (IV) in which:
- Y" represents the group -COOH, -COOZ" or -CH2-CH(0H)S03H or the group CH2CH(0H)S03-Z";
- Rd and Re, independently of one another, represent a Ci to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;
- Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
- Ra" represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra"-COOH which is preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil;
- n and n' denote, independently of one another, an integer ranging from 1 to 3. Mention may be made, among the compounds of formula (II), of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by Chimex under the name Chimexane FIB.
These compounds may be used alone or as mixtures.
Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, use is preferably made of (Cs- C2o)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocam idopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof, and the compounds of formula (IV) such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).
Preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (Cs- C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocam idopropylbetaine.
Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant(s) are present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 3% to 20% by weight, preferentially in a content ranging from 3.5% to 15% by weight and better still from 4% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
3/ Non-ionic surfactants The cosmetic composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants, notably such as those described in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pp 116-178.
Examples of non-ionic surfactants that may be mentioned include the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:
- oxyalkylenated (C8-C24)alkylphenols;
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated Cs- C40 alcohols, preferably comprising one or two fatty chains;
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated Cs to C30 fatty acid amides;
- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cs to C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols;
- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cs to C30 acids and of sorbitol which are preferably oxyethylenated;
- esters of fatty acids and of sucrose;
- (C8-C3o)alkyl(poly)glucosides, (C8-C3o)alkenyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated and which comprise from 1 to 15 glucose units, (Cs- C3o)alkyl(poly)glucoside esters;
- saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils;
- condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide;
- N-(C8-C3o)alkylglucamine and N-(C8-C3o)acylmethylglucamine derivatives;
- amine oxides.
The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or their combination, preferably oxyethylene units.
The number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges in particular from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 10. Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise any oxypropylene units.
Preferably, they comprise a number of moles of ethylene oxide ranging from 1 to 250, notably from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50.
As examples of glycerolated non-ionic surfactants, use is preferably made of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated Cs to C40 alcohols, comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol and preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol.
As examples of compounds of this type, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.
Among the glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the Cs to Cio alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the Cio to C12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.
The non-ionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the washing composition according to the invention are preferentially chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated Cs to C40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide; they preferably include one or two fatty chains;
- saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50;
- (C8-C3o)alkyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably with 0 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units;
- monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated Cs to C40 alcohols, comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol and preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol;
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated Cs to C30 fatty acid amides;
- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cs to C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols;
- preferably oxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cs to C30 acids and of sorbitol.
More preferentially, the non-ionic surfactant(s) are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated Cs to C40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains, in particular at least one C8-C20 and in particular C10-C18 alkyl chain;
- preferably oxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cs to C30 acids and of sorbitol; and
- (C8-C3o)alkyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably comprising from 1 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units.
In particular, the washing composition may comprise one or more non-ionic surfactants of alkyl(poly)glycoside type of general formula:
RiO-(R20)t-(G)v in which:
- R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical of which the linear or branched alkyl radical includes 6 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms; preferably a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
- R2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
- G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms; preferably glucose, fructose or galactose; even better still glucose;
- 1 denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably 0 to 4, better still from 0 to 3 and even better still 0;
- v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization (v) more particularly being between 1 and 2.
The glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type.
Preferably, the alkyl (poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl (poly)glucoside surfactant.
Preferably, the washing composition according to the invention comprises the non ionic surfactant(s), when they are present, in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 10% by weight and preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the washing composition.
4/ Other ingredients
The washing composition according to the invention may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from Ci- C4 alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols; and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the washing composition according to the invention has a total water content of between 20% and 95% by weight, preferably between 30% and 90%, preferentially between 40% and 85% by weight and even better still between 50% and 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The pH of the washing composition according to the invention generally ranges from 3 to 9, preferably from 3 to 7, preferentially from 3.5 to 6 and better still from 4 to 5.5.
The cosmetic washing composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one standard cosmetic ingredient, in particular chosen from polymeric or nonpolymeric conditioning agents; mention may in particular be made of cationic polymers, amphoteric polymers, silicones, organomodified silicones such as amino silicones; plant, mineral, animal or synthetic oils; liquid fatty alcohols; liquid fatty esters; solid fatty substances and in particular waxes, solid fatty esters, solid alcohols; ceram ides; sunscreens; moisturizers; antidandruff agents; antioxidants; pearlescent agents and opacifiers; plasticizers or coalescence agents; preservatives; sequestrants (EDTA and salts thereof); colorants. The composition may of course comprise several cosmetic ingredients featured in the above list. Those skilled in the art will take care to select the ingredients making up the composition, and also the amounts thereof, such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.
The present invention is illustrated in greater detail in the examples that follow (AM = active material).
Example 1 The following pre-shampoo compositions according to the invention are prepared (% by weight of active material):
[Table 1]
Figure imgf000039_0001
The pre-shampoo composition C is applied to half a head, on wet and dirty hair (medium-long to long hair), in a proportion of 10 g per half head. It is left on for 3 minutes and then rinsed off with water.
A commercial shampoo (comprising in particular 17 g% of sodium lauryl ether sulfate and 3 g% of cocobetaine) is then applied in a proportion of 16 g per head, and is then rinsed off with water.
A commercial hair mask (comprising notably cationic surfactants, solid fatty substances and an amino silicone) is applied, in a proportion of 10 g per half head, to the half head which has not received pre-shampoo C, it is left on for 5 minutes and is then rinsed off with water. The hair is then dried with a hairdryer.
Observations at TO:
- the application of the pre-shampoo makes it possible to obtain a foam that is much more abundant, and hair that is much more supple during rinsing and smoother in the foam;
- on wet hair (before drying): the hair treated according to the invention is much more tonic; it is stronger, more rigid (resistant to deformation when seeking to bend it); a feeling of having more material is noted (provision of density); faster drying is also noted;
- on dried hair: the hair treated according to the invention is visually smoother. The provision of strength persists (hair more rigid with provision of density and of body). It is thus noted that the invention makes it possible to provide strength along with lightness, at TO.
Observations after 3 shampoo washes (persistence):
After 3 shampoo washes, it is noted that the provision of strength persists on wet hair and on dry hair: the hair is more coated (coating of glidance and covering type). After drying, the dried hair is much more dense (feeling of having a large amount of hair in the hands) and has been given more body (more rigid).
Example 2
The following pre-shampoo composition according to the invention is prepared (% by weight of active material):
[Table 2]
Figure imgf000040_0001
Locks of natural hair weighing 2.7 g and measuring 25 cm are pre-damaged by automated repeated brushing so as to generate split ends. The number of split ends per 100 strands of hair is counted for each lock.
One of the following protocols is then carried out on the pre-damaged locks.
- Protocol 1 (control): application of a DOP standard shampoo (0.4 g per gram of lock), rinsing and drying.
- Protocol 2: application of a commercial shampoo X (sodium laureth sulfate, CAPB, cationic polymer, amino silicone, etc.) (0.4 g per gram of lock), rinsing and drying.
- Protocol 3: application of the commercial shampoo X (0.4 g per gram of lock), rinsing; followed by the application of a standard mask Y (fatty alcohol, cationic surfactant, amino silicone, etc.) (0.4 g per gram of lock), leave-on time of 3 minutes, rinsing and drying.
- Protocol 4: application of the pre-shampoo D (0.4 g per gram of lock), leave-on time of 5 minutes then rinsing; followed by application of the commercial shampoo X (0.4 g per gram of lock) then rinsing; followed by application of the standard mask Y (0.4 g per gram of lock), leave-on time of 3 minutes then rinsing and drying.
At the end of the protocols, the number of split ends per 100 strands of hair is again counted.
The % reduction in split ends (RF) relative to protocol 1 is then calculated using the following equation:
RF = 100 X (Number of split ends Protocol 1 - Number of split ends Protocol X)/Number of split ends Protocol 1
The following results are obtained: [Table 3]
Figure imgf000041_0001
It is noted that the process according to the invention makes it possible to reduce the number of split ends by 66% compared to a standard shampoo. It also makes it possible to reduce the number of split ends compared to protocols 2 and 3.
Example 3
The following pre-shampoo composition E according to the invention and comparative pre-shampoo composition E’ are prepared (% by weight of active material):
[Table 4]
Figure imgf000041_0002
Protocol: with pre-shampoo
The pre-shampoo composition E is applied to one half of a head, and the pre shampoo composition E’ is applied to the other half, on wet and dirty hair (medium- long to long hair), in a proportion of 10 g per half head. They are left on for 3 minutes and then rinsed off with water.
A commercial shampoo (comprising notably 17 g% of sodium lauryl ether sulfate and 3 g% of cocobetaine) is then applied to the whole of the head, in a proportion of 16 g per head, and is then rinsed off with water.
Results
The performance results in terms of “smooth feel” and “provision of volume” were evaluated by 6 experts, on dry hair, in a blind test.
Each of the 6 experts declared which half head presented the best “smooth feel” and the best “provision of volume” according to the following scale: for the side with the worst performance results “=” in the event of equality “+” for the side with the best performance results
In order to evaluate the “smooth feel” nature, the expert takes a lock between the thumb and index finger and slides the fingers along the lock from the upper part to the ends. The expert evaluates whether the hair exhibits rough patches, whether it catches the figures, and whether it feels uniform.
The provision of volume (or density) is evaluated by touch: the expert takes hold of a lock in the hand, and evaluates, from the root to the end, the feeling of how much hair is between the fingers.
The results obtained are given below:
[Table 5]
Figure imgf000042_0001
All of the experts (6 out of 6) judged that composition E according to the invention provided a smoother feel than comparative composition E’. [Table 6]
Figure imgf000043_0001
All of the experts (6 out of 6) judged that composition E according to the invention provided greater volume than comparative composition E’.

Claims

1 . Hair treatment process comprising:
- a step (i) of applying to the hair a cosmetic care composition comprising one or more cationic polymers and at least 6% by weight of one or more organosilanes,
- then a step (ii) of washing said hair, comprising the application of a cosmetic washing composition comprising one or more anionic surfactants, said step (ii) of washing the hair being carried out at most 60 minutes after said step (i), preferably between 30 seconds and 60 minutes, notably between 1 and 30 minutes, or even between 2 and 20 minutes, even better still between 3 and 15 minutes, and most particularly between 4 and 10 minutes.
2. Process according to Claim 1 , in which
- step (i) is followed by a leave-on step, for example a leave-on time of from 1 to 15 minutes, in particular 2 to 5 minutes; and/or a rinsing step, for example with water; and/or
- the washing step (ii) is followed by a leave-on step, for example a leave-on time of from 1 to 15 minutes, in particular 2 to 5 minutes; and/or a rinsing step, for example with water; and/or a drying step; preferably, said washing step (ii) is followed by a rinsing step and optionally a drying step.
3. Process according to either one of the preceding claims, in which the care composition comprises one or more organosilanes chosen from the compounds of formula (I) and/or oligomers thereof and/or hydrolysis products thereof:
R1 Si(OR2)z(R3)x(OH)y (I) in which:
- R1 is a cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22, in particular C2-C20, hydrocarbon-based chain, which may be substituted with a group chosen from amine groups NH2 or NHR (R being a linear or branched C1-C20, in particular C1-C6, alkyl, a C3-C40 cycloalkyl or a C6-C30 aromatic radical); the hydroxyl group (OH), a thiol group, an aryl group (more particularly benzyl), which is possibly substituted with an NH2 or NHR group; it being possible for R1 to be interrupted with a heteroatom (O, S or NH) or a carbonyl group (CO),
- R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
- y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3,
- z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and
- x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2,
- with z + x + y = 3; preferably, R1 being a linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated C1-C22, in particular C1-C12, hydrocarbon-based chain, which may be substituted with an amine group NH2 or NHR (R = C1-C20, in particular C1-C6, alkyl); preferably, R2 representing an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, better still a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and even better still an ethyl group; preferably, z ranging from 1 to 3, better still z = 3 and y = 0.
4. Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the organosilane(s) are present in the care composition in a total content ranging from 6% to 20% by weight, preferentially from 7% to 15% by weight and better still from 8% to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the care composition.
5. Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the care composition comprises one or more associative or non-associated cationic polymers chosen from:
(1 ) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units having the following formula:
Figure imgf000045_0001
in which:
- R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;
- A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- R4, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
- R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;
- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide;
(2) cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic galactomannan gums and celluloses; (3) polymers constituted of piperazinyl units and of divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals bearing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers;
(4) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis- haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they include one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized;
(5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents.
(6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine including two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1 ; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1 ;
(7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II):
Figure imgf000046_0001
in which
- k and t are equal to 0 or 1 , the sum k + t being equal to 1 ;
- R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
- R10 and R11 , independently of one another, denote a C1-C6 alkyl group, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R10 and R11 may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; R10 and R11 , independently of one another, preferably denote a C1-C4 alkyl group;
- Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate;
(8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula:
Figure imgf000047_0001
in which:
- R13, R14, R15 and R16, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-C12 hydroxyalkyl aliphatic radicals, or else R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second non nitrogen heteroatom; or else R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1 -C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -COO-R17-D or -CONHR17D group, where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
- A1 and B1 represent linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
- X denotes an anion derived from an inorganic or organic acid; it being understood that A1 , R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; in addition, if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 may also denote a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)P- with n and p, which may be identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting: a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2CH20)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)0]y-CH2CH(CH3)-, in which x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or else the divalent radical -CH2-CH2- S-S-CH2-CH2-; d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-;
(9) polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V):
Figure imgf000048_0001
in which:
- R18, Ri9, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, b-hydroxyethyl, b-hydroxypropyl or - CH2CH2(OCH2CH2) OH radical, in which p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,
- r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,
- q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,
- X denotes an anion such as a halide,
- A denotes a divalent dihalide radical or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-0-CH2- CH2-.
(10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole;
(11 ) polyamines such as Polyethylene glycol (15) tallow polyamine;
(12) polymers comprising in their structure:
(a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:
Figure imgf000048_0002
(b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:
Figure imgf000048_0003
(13) cationic associative polyurethanes, which may be represented by the general formula (la) below: R-X-(P)n-[L-(Y)m]r-L'-(P')p-X'-R' in which:
R and R’, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom;
X and X', which may be identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group, or alternatively a group L";
L, L' and L", which may be identical or different, represent a group derived from a diisocyanate;
P and P', which may be identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group;
Y represents a hydrophilic group; r is an integer between 1 and 100 inclusive, preferably between 1 and 50 inclusive and in particular between 1 and 25 inclusive; n, m and p are each, independently of one another, between 0 and 1000 inclusive; the molecule containing at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group;
- (14) quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular quaternized celluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl groups, linear or branched arylalkyl groups, or linear or branched alkylaryl groups, preferably linear or branched alkyl groups, these groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, notably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 24, or even from 10 to 14, carbon atoms; or mixtures thereof;
- (15) cationic polyvinyllactams, notably those comprising:
-a) at least one monomer of vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam type;
-b) at least one monomer of structure (lc) or (lie) below:
Figure imgf000049_0001
_ / J
CH2 — C(R1)-CO— X (Y)— (CH2-CH2-0)— (CH2-CH(R2)-Q)-(Y1)q —
(lie) R4 in which:
- X denotes an oxygen atom or an NR6 radical,
- Ri and R6 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical,
- R2 denotes a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical,
- R3, R4 and R5 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical or a radical of formula (lllc): - (Y2)— (CH2-CH(R7)-0)— RS (MIC)
- Y, Yi and Y2 denote, independently of one another, a linear or branched C2-C16 alkylene radical,
- R7 denotes a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical or a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical,
- Rs denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical,
- p, q and r denote, independently of one another, 0 or 1 ,
- m and n denote, independently of one another, an integer ranging from 0 to 100 inclusive,
- x denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100 inclusive,
- Z denotes an anionic counterion of an organic or mineral acid, such as a halide, for instance chloride or bromide, or mesylate; with the proviso that:
- at least one of the substituents R3, R4, Rs or Rs denotes a linear or branched C9- C30 alkyl radical,
- if m and/or n is other than zero, then q is equal to 1 ,
- if m = n = 0, then p or q is equal to 0;
- (16) the cationic polymers obtained by polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising one or more vinyl monomers substituted with one or more amino groups, one or more hydrophobic non-ionic vinyl monomers, and one or more associative vinyl monomers.
6. Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the care composition comprises one or more associative or non-associative cationic polymers, in particular chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers, and in particular homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride);
- optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci- C4)alkyltri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts;
- quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole;
- the cationic polymers derived from quaternized cellulose, and the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (lb) below:
Figure imgf000050_0001
in which:
- R represents an ammonium group RaRbRcNT-, Q- in which Ra, Rb and Rc, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C-i- C30 alkyl, and Q- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide; preferably an alkyl;
- R' represents an ammonium group R'aR'bR'cN+-, Q'_ in which R'a, R'b and R'c, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl, and Q'_ represents an anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide; preferably an alkyl; it being understood that at least one of the radicals Ra, Rb, Rc, R'a, R'b and R'c represents a linear or branched C8-C30 alkyl;
- n, x and y, which may be identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10 000.
7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the care composition comprises one or more associative or non-associative cationic polymers in a total amount of between 0.01 % and 8% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 5% by weight and preferentially from 0.1 % to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
8. Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the care composition comprises one or more thickeners, preferably chosen from thickening polymers, and even better still from thickening polysaccharides, most particularly chosen from, alone or as a mixture, non-ionic polysaccharides, better still chosen from, alone or as a mixture, non-ionic cellulose ethers, and notably (Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses and hydroxy(Ci-C4)alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses.
9. Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetic washing composition comprises one or more anionic surfactants chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
- C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl sulfates;
- C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
- C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates;
- C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 olefin sulfonates;
- C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfosuccinates;
- (C6-C24)acylisethionates and preferably (Ci2-Ci8)acylisethionates;
C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 acylsarcosinates; in particular palmitoylsarcosinates;
- (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylates, preferably (Ci2-C2o)alkyl ether carboxylates; in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; - polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups;
- C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 acylglutamates;
- C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 acylglycinates; in particular in acid form or in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts; preferentially, the composition comprises one or more sulfate anionic surfactants, preferably one or more C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl sulfates, and/or one or more C6-C24 and in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates; preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, particularly in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
10. Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetic washing composition comprises one or more anionic surfactants in a total amount ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, notably from 4% to 25% by weight, better still from 5% to 20% by weight and even better still from 6% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
11. Process according to one of the preceding claims, in which the cosmetic washing composition comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants, preferably chosen from (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3- C8)alkylbetaines such as cocam idopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof, and the compounds of formula (IV):
Ra''-NHCH(Y")-(CH2)nCONH(CH2)n'-N(Rd)(Re) (IV) in which:
- Y" represents the group -COOH, -COOZ" or -CH2-CH(0H)S03H or the group CH2CH(0H)S03-Z";
- Rd and Re, independently of one another, represent a Ci to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;
- Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
- Ra" represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra"-COOH which is preferably present in coconut kernel oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil;
- n and n' denote, independently of one another, an integer ranging from 1 to 3; such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate.
PCT/EP2020/084015 2019-12-06 2020-12-01 Hair treatment process comprising the application of a composition comprising cationic polymers and organosilanes, followed by a washing step WO2021110625A1 (en)

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FR3136162A1 (en) * 2022-06-01 2023-12-08 L'oreal Hair treatment process comprising the application of a composition comprising amino acids and hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, followed by washing the hair, and use as a pre-shampoo

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