WO2023110367A1

WO2023110367A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising a bis-amino silicone, an associative polymer and a cationic polymer

Info

Publication number: WO2023110367A1
Application number: PCT/EP2022/083319
Authority: WO
Inventors: Laura FENELON; Adrien BENAZZOUZ
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2021-12-14
Filing date: 2022-11-25
Publication date: 2023-06-22
Also published as: FR3130155A1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one bis-amino silicone, at least one cationic polymer and at least one associative polymer. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin materials, notably the hair, using such a composition, and to the use thereof for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials.

Description

DESCRIPTION

TITLE: Cosmetic composition comprising a bis-amino silicone, an associative polymer and a cationic polymer

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising one or more alpha, omega-bis-amino silicones, one or more associative polymers and one or more cationic polymers. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating human keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibres of a composition as defined above. The invention also relates to the use of a composition as defined above for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, and in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.

Hair is generally damaged and embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and also by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent-waving and/or relaxing, or even repeated washing.

Hair is thus damaged by these various factors and may over time become dry, coarse, brittle or dull, notably in fragile areas, and more particularly at the ends.

Thus, to overcome these drawbacks, it is common practice to resort to hair care treatments using compositions that condition the hair, giving it satisfactory cosmetic properties, notably in terms of smoothness, sheen, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and good disentangling properties.

These hair care compositions intended to be applied regularly to the hair may be, for example, hair conditioners, masks or sera, and may be in the form of gels, hair lotions or care creams that are more or less thick.

It is in particular known practice to use compositions in the form of oily sera or masks, containing combinations of silicone oils and/or non-silicone oils. However, such compositions still too often result in excessive greasing of keratin fibres, which results in said fibres having a greasy or even tacky feel, and a lank, weighed-down visual appearance.

Furthermore, compositions containing oils, once applied to the hair, frequently result in effects that are not very pleasant to the touch, in particular the hair has a tendency to be coarse and/or to squeak (that is to say produce an unpleasant sound), in particular when the strands of hair are rubbed together while sliding the fingers along the hair from the root to the end.

In addition, hair treated with such compositions is neither easy nor quick to dry.

Finally, the immediate benefits provided by such compositions, for example in terms of disentangling of the hair, gliding smoothness, suppleness or coating, are not always sufficient for the most damaged hair; in addition, they have a tendency to rapidly fade over time, and even to disappear after shampooing. The present invention aims to provide compositions which do not have the drawbacks mentioned above, and which are capable of conditioning keratin fibres in a long-lasting manner, in particular by giving them good cosmetic properties.

This aim is achieved by the present invention, one subject of which is notably a cosmetic composition comprising:

(i) one or more alpha, omega-bis-amino silicones,

(ii) one or more associative polymers and

(iii) one or more cationic polymers in a total amount ranging from 0.01 % to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention makes it possible to confer good cosmetic properties on the keratin materials, notably on keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, notably in terms of disentangling, suppleness, smooth feel and smooth appearance, softness, sheen, manageability and frizz control.

Moreover, the composition according to the invention has good working qualities. It is easy to apply and to distribute over the keratin fibres and feels like it melts away upon application. It has a pleasant, uniform smooth and creamy texture.

Where appropriate, it is removed very well by simple rinsing of the keratin fibres, without leaving a greasy feel or appearance of said fibres.

Even in the absence of rinsing of the composition, when it is used as a leave-on composition for example, the fibres remain light, non-charged and non-tacky, and have a clean feel.

Furthermore, this composition exhibits good durability of the effects over time (at least for 24 hours) and good persistence of the effects, for example after at least one shampoo wash.

In particular, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to confer on the hair, as soon as it is applied, smooth-feel, softness, suppleness and lightness properties; after 1 shampoo wash, the level of care provided by the composition according to the invention remains very high, in particular on dry hair, on which it is noted that the smooth feel (glidance) is still present, uniformly from the roots to the ends of the hair.

The composition according to the invention makes it possible to provide the hair with good conditioning, in particular care, properties although it contains a low silicone content and contains little, or even no, cationic surfactants. Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not contain cationic surfactants; in particular, the total content of cationic surfactants is less than or equal to 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferentially 0.1 % and even more preferentially 0%. In the present application, and unless otherwise indicated, the term “at least one” is equivalent to “one or more”; and the limits of a range of values are included in that range, notably in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

(i) Alpha, omega-bis-amino silicones

The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more alpha, omega-bis-amino silicones, that is to say silicones comprising amine end groups; this means that the groups located at the chain end (the end groups in the alpha and omega positions) comprise an amino group. The amino group may be a primary, secondary or tertiary amine and also a quaternary ammonium.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more alpha, omega-bis-amino silicones corresponding to formula (I):

in which:

- the R radicals represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, an OH group or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl group;

- the R1 , R2, 3 and R4 radicals represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a Ci-Ce alkyl group or a Ci-Ce aminoalkyl group;

- x is between 0 and 6, y is between 0 and 6 and n is such that the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the amino silicone is between 5000 and 200 000.

Preferably, the R radicals are identical and represent CH3 (methyl).

Preferably, R1, R2, R3 and R4, independently of one another, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4, better still C2-C4, alkyl group, which is preferably linear and saturated, in particular ethyl; or a C2-C4 aminoalkyl group, in particular of structure -(CaH2a)- NH2 with a = 2 to 4; in particular aminoethyl (-CH2-CH2-NH2).

Preferably, x is between 1 and 5, better still between 2 and 4, even better still x=3. Preferably, y is between 1 and 5, better still between 2 and 4, even better still y=3. Preferably, x=y.

Preferably, n is such that the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is between 10 000 and 150 000 g/mol, or even between 15 000 and 100 000 g/mol.

In one preferred embodiment, the alpha, omega-amino silicone corresponds to formula (I) in which R=methyl, x=y=3 and R1 = R2 = R3 = R4 = H; it is then a bis- aminopropyl dimethicone (INCI name).

The composition comprises a total content of alpha, omega-bis-amino silicone(s) ranging preferably from 0.001 % to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.005% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01 % to 1 % and better still from 0.02% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition comprises a total content of alpha, omega-bis-amino silicone(s) of formula (I) ranging preferably from 0.001 % to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.005% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01 % to 1 % and better still from 0.02% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(ii) Associative polymer

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more associative polymers. Preferably, the associative polymers are non-ionic.

The associative polymers according to the invention are non-silicone (i.e. do not contain silicone atom).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" is intended to mean any compound derived from the polymerization by polycondensation or from the radical polymerization of monomers, at least one of which is other than an alkylene oxide, and of a monofunctional compound of formula RX, R denoting an optionally hydroxylated C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group, and X denoting a carboxylic acid, amine, amide, hydroxyl or ester group. All the compounds resulting solely from the simple condensation of an alkylene oxide with a fatty alcohol, a fatty ester, a fatty acid, a fatty amide or a fatty amine are in particular excluded.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "associative polymer" is intended to mean an amphiphilic polymer that is capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly combining with itself or with other molecules. It generally comprises, in its chemical structure, at least one hydrophilic region or group and at least one hydrophobic region or group.

The associative polymers according to the invention are polymers comprising at least one fatty chain including from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and of which the molecules are capable, in the formulation medium, of associating with each other or with molecules of other compounds. Preferably, the fatty chain comprises from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

A particular case of associative polymers is amphiphilic polymers, i.e. polymers including one or more hydrophilic parts or groups which make them water-soluble and one or more hydrophobic zones or groups (comprising at least one fatty chain) via which the polymers interact and assemble with each other or with other molecules.

The term “hydrophobic group” means a group or a polymer containing a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N or S, or a radical containing a perfluoro or silicone chain. When it denotes a hydrocarbon-based group, the hydrophobic group comprises at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based hydrophobic group originates from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, or else from a polyalkylenated fatty alcohol, such as steareth-100. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty chain" is understood to mean a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty compound", for instance a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid or a fatty amide, is intended to mean a compound comprising, in its main chain, at least one saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon- based chain, such as alkyl or alkenyl, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

Among the anionic associative polymers, mention may be made in particular of:

- (A) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit; and more particularly those:

- of which the hydrophilic unit is constituted by an ethylenic unsaturated anionic monomer, even more particularly by a vinylcarboxylic acid and most particularly by an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof; and of which the fatty-chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the monomer of formula (I’) below: CH2=C(R')-CH₂OB_nR in which R' denotes H or CHs, B denotes an ethyleneoxy radical, n ranges from 0 to 100, and R denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl radicals, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24, and even more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Preferably, R' denotes H, n = 10 and R denotes a stearyl (Cis) radical.

Preference is particularly given, among these anionic associative polymers, to the polymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and/or of methacrylic acid, from 5% to 60% by weight of C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylates, from 2% to 50% by weight of fatty-chain allyl ether of formula (I’) and from 0% to 1 % by weight of a crosslinking agent which is preferably a copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.

Those most particularly preferred are crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate and of polyethylene glycol (10 EO) stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth- 10), in particular the product sold by BASF under the name Salcare SC80, which is an aqueous 30% emulsion of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate and of steareth-10 allyl ether (40/50/10) having the INCI name Steareth-10 Allyl Ether/Acrylates Copolymer;

- (B) those including at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit of the (C10-C30) alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type. These polymers are preferably chosen from those for which the hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (II) below:

in which Ri denotes H, CHs, or C2H5, and for which the hydrophobic unit of (C10- Cso)alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (III) below:

in which R2 denotes H, CH3 or C2H5, and R3 denotes a C10-C30 and preferably C12- C22 alkyl radical.

(C10-C30) Alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids in accordance with the invention comprise, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.

Among these anionic associative polymers, use will be made more particularly of polymers formed from a monomer mixture comprising: (i) (meth)acrylic acid, (ii) an ester of formula (III) described above and in which R2 denotes H or CH3, R3 denotes an alkyl radical containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and optionally (iii) a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.

Among the anionic associative polymers of this type, preference is more particularly given to those constituted of from 95% to 60% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 4% to 40% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or alternatively those constituted of from 98% to 96% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 1 % to 4% by weight of C10-C30 alkyl acrylate and 0.1 % to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described above.

Mention may in particular be made of the products sold by Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TR1 , Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol ETD 2020, Carbopol llltrez 20, Carbopol llltrez 21 , having the INCI name Acrylates /C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, and more preferably still Pemulen TR1 and Carbopol 1382;

- (C) maleic anhydride/Cso-Css a-olefin/alkyl maleate terpolymers, such as the maleic anhydride/Cso-Css a-olefin/isopropyl maleate copolymer, in particular the product sold under the name Performa V 1608 by Newphase Technologies (INCI name: C30-38 Olefin/lsopropyl Maleate/MA Copolymer);

- (D) acrylic terpolymers comprising (a) 20% to 70% by weight of an a, [3- monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, (b) 20% to 80% by weight of an a, (3- monoethylenically unsaturated non-surface-active monomer other than (a), and (c) 0.5% to 60% by weight of a non-ionic monourethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate. Mention may in particular be made of the ethoxylated (40 EO) methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/behenyl alcohol dimethyl meta-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate terpolymer, in particular as a 25% aqueous dispersion, such as the product Viscophobe DB1000 sold by Amerchol (Dow Chemical) having the INCI name Polyacrylate-3;

- (E) copolymers comprising among their monomers (i) an a,p-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, such as acrylic or methacrylic acid, and (ii) an ester of an a,p-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid, in particular acrylic or methacrylic acid, and of a fatty alcohol, notably a C8-C32 fatty alcohol, which is oxyalkylenated, notably comprising 2 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, in particular 4 to 50, or even 10 to 40 EO.

Mention may in particular be made, as monomers, of behenyl or stearyl (meth)acrylate comprising 10 to 40 EO, in particular 18 to 30 EO.

Preferentially, these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of an a,p- monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a C1-C4 alcohol, in particular a C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate.

Preferably, these copolymers comprise at least one (meth)acrylic acid monomer, at least one C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer and at least one C8-C32 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer which is oxyethylenated, comprising 2 to 100 mol EO, in particular 4 to 50 EO, or even 10 to 40 EO.

By way of examples, mention may be made of Aculyn 22 sold by Rohm and Haas, which is an oxyalkylenated methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/stearyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), or else Aculyn 28 sold by Rohm and Haas, which is an oxyalkylenated methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/behenyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), likewise the Novethix L-10 Polymer sold by Lubrizol.

- (F) associative polymers comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer bearing a sulfonic group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form and comprising at least one hydrophobic part.

Among the polymers of this type, mention may be made more especially of:

- crosslinked or non-crosslinked, neutralized or non-neutralized copolymers comprising from 15% to 60% by weight of AMPS (2-acrylamido-2- methylpropanesulfonic acid or salt) units and from 40% to 85% by weight of (Cs- Cie)alkyl (meth)acrylate units relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent application EP-A-750 899;

- terpolymers comprising from 10 mol% to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-(Ce- C8)alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in patent US 5 089 578;

- copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS and of dodecyl methacrylate, and also copolymers of AMPS and of n-dodecylmethacrylamide, which are non-crosslinked and crosslinked;

- copolymers constituted of AMPS units and of steareth-25 methacrylate units, such as Aristoflex HMS® sold by Clariant (INCI name Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) or beheneth-25 methacrylate units, such as Aristoflex HMB (INCI name Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) sold by Clariant or else steareth-8 methacrylate units, such as Aristoflex SNC® from Clariant (INCI name ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/steareth-8 methacrylate copolymer);

- (G) associative polymers comprising at least one vinyllactam monomer and at least one a,p-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid monomer, such as terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, of acrylic acid and of C1-C20 alkyl, for example lauryl, methacrylate, such as the product sold by ISP under the name Acrylidone® LM (INCI name VP/Acrylates/Lauryl Methacrylate Copolymer).

Among the cationic associative polymers, mention may be made of:

- (A) cationic associative polyurethanes, which may be represented by the general formula (la) below: R-X-(P)n-[L-(Y)m]r-L'-(P')_P-X'-R' in which:

R and R’, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom;

X and X’, which may be identical or different, represent a group including an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group, or alternatively the group L”;

L, L’ and L”, which may be identical or different, represent a group derived from a diisocyanate;

P and P’, which may be identical or different, represent a group including an amine function optionally bearing a hydrophobic group;

Y represents a hydrophilic group; r is an integer between 1 and 100 inclusive, preferably between 1 and 50 inclusive and in particular between 1 and 25 inclusive; n, m and p are each, independently of one another, between 0 and 1000 inclusive; the molecule containing at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group.

Preferably, the only hydrophobic groups are the groups R and R' at the chain ends. One preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (la) described above, in which:

R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group,

X and X' each represent a group L", n and p are integers that are between 1 and 1000 inclusive, and

L, L’, L”, P, P’, Y and m have the meaning given above. Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (la) above in which: n = p = 0 (the polymers do not include any units derived from a monomer containing an amine function, incorporated into the polymer during the polycondensation), the protonated amine functions result from the hydrolysis of excess isocyanate functions, at the chain end, followed by alkylation of the primary amine functions formed with alkylating agents containing a hydrophobic group, i.e. compounds of the type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide or a sulfate, etc.

Yet another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is the one corresponding to formula (la) above in which:

R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group,

X and X' both independently represent a group including a quaternary amine, n = p = 0, and

L, L', Y and m have the meaning given above.

The number-average molecular mass (Mn) of the cationic associative polyurethanes is preferably between 400 and 500 000 inclusive, in particular between 1000 and 400 000 inclusive and ideally between 1000 and 300 000 inclusive.

Preferentially, the hydrocarbon-based group is derived from a monofunctional compound.

By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It may also denote a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for instance polybutadiene.

When X and/or X' denote(s) a group including a tertiary or quaternary amine, X g formulae:

in which:

R2 represents a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally including a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P;

Ri and Rs, which may be identical or different, denote a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical or an aryl radical, at least one of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O and P;

A- is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide, or a mesylate.

The groups L, L' and L" represent a group of formula:

in which:

Z represents -O-, -S- or -NH-; and

R4 represents a linear or branched alkylene radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally including a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms possibly being replaced with a heteroatom chosen from N, S, 0 and P.

The groups P and P' comprising an amine function may represent at least one of the following formulae:

in which:

Rs and R7 have the same meanings as R2 defined above;

Re, Rs and R9 have the same meanings as R1 and R3 defined above;

R10 represents a linear or branched, optionally unsaturated alkylene group possibly containing one or more heteroatoms chosen from N, 0, S and P; and

A- is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance chloride or bromide, or mesylate.

As regards the meaning of Y, the term “hydrophilic group” means a polymeric or non-polymeric water-soluble group.

By way of example, when it is not a polymer, mention may be made of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.

When it is a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, for example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters and sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. The hydrophilic compound is preferentially a polyether and notably a poly(ethylene oxide) or polypropylene oxide).

The cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (la) according to the invention are formed from diisocyanates and from various compounds bearing functions containing labile hydrogen. The functions containing labile hydrogen may be alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions, giving, after reaction with the diisocyanate functions, polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas, respectively. In the present invention, the term “polyurethanes” encompasses these three types of polymer, namely polyurethanes per se, polyureas and polythioureas, and also copolymers thereof.

A first type of compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (la) is a compound including at least one unit bearing an amine function. This compound may be multifunctional, but the compound is preferentially difunctional, that is to say that, according to a preferential embodiment, this compound includes two labile hydrogen atoms borne, for example, by a hydroxyl, primary amine, secondary amine or thiol function. A mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is low may also be used.

As mentioned above, this compound may include more than one unit containing an amine function. In this case, it is a polymer bearing a repetition of the unit containing an amine function.

Compounds of this type may be represented by one of the following formulae: HZ-(P)_n-ZH or HZ-(P’)_P-ZH, in which Z, P, P’, n and p are as defined above.

Examples that may be mentioned include N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert- butyldiethanolamine and N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine.

The second compound included in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (la) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the formula: O=C=N-R4-N=C=O in which R4 is as defined above.

By way of example, mention may be made of methylenediphenyl diisocyanate, methylenecyclohexane diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, tolylene diisocyanate, naphthalene diisocyanate, butane diisocyanate and hexane diisocyanate.

A third compound involved in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (la) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the terminal hydrophobic groups of the polymer of formula (la).

This compound is constituted of a hydrophobic group and a function containing labile hydrogen, for example a hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol function.

By way of example, this compound may be a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. When this compound includes a polymeric chain, it may be, for example, a-hydroxylated hydrogenated polybutadiene.

The hydrophobic group of the polyurethane of formula (la) may also result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of the compound including at least one tertiary amine unit. Thus, the hydrophobic group is introduced via the quaternizing agent. This quaternizing agent is a compound of the type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q denotes a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.

The cationic associative polyurethane may also comprise a hydrophilic block. This block is provided by a fourth type of compound involved in the preparation of the polymer. This compound may be multifunctional. It is preferably difunctional. It is also possible to have a mixture in which the percentage of multifunctional compound is low.

The functions containing labile hydrogen are alcohol, primary or secondary amine, or thiol functions. This compound may be a polymer terminated at the chain ends with one of these functions containing labile hydrogen.

The hydrophilic group termed Y in formula (la) is optional. Specifically, the units containing a quaternary or protonated amine function may suffice to provide the solubility or water-dispersibility required for this type of polymer in an aqueous solution.

Although the presence of a hydrophilic group Y is optional, cationic associative polyurethanes including such a group are, however, preferred.

- (B’) quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular:

- i) quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl or linear or branched alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof;

- ii) quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl or linear or branched alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof;

- iii) the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (lb):

in which:

- R and R', which may be identical or different, represent an ammonium group R_aRbRcN⁺-, Q- in which R_a, Rb and R_c, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30, preferentially C1-C20, alkyl group, such as methyl or dodecyl; and Q’ represents an anionic counterion such as a halide, for instance a chloride or bromide; and n, x and y, which may be identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10 000.

The alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses i) or hydroxyethylcelluloses ii) preferably comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

Mention may also be made, as examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses bearing Cs-Cso fatty chains, of the product Quatrisoft LM 200® sold by Amerchol/Dow Chemical (INCI name: Polyquaternium-24) and the products Crodacel QM® (INCI name: PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose cocodimonium chloride), Crodacel QL® (C12 alkyl) (INCI name: PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose lauryldimonium chloride) and Crodacel QS® (C18 alkyl) (INCI name: PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose stearyldimonium chloride) sold by Croda.

Mention may also be made of the hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (lb) in which R represents a trimethylammonium halide and R’ represents a dimethyldodecylammonium halide, more preferentially R represents trimethylammonium chloride (CHs)3N⁺-, Cl’ and R’ represents dimethyldodecylammonium chloride (CH3)2(Ci2H2s)N⁺- Cl’. This type of polymer is known under the trade name Softcat Polymer SL®, such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5, from Amerchol/Dow Chemical, having the INCI name Polyquaternium-67. More particularly, the polymers of formula (lb) are those of which the viscosity is between 2000 and 3000 cPs inclusive. Preferentially, the viscosity is between 2700 and 2800 cPs inclusive. Typically, Softcat Polymer SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, Softcat Polymer SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs and Softcat Polymer SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cPs.

- (C’) cationic polyvinyllactams, notably those comprising:

(lie) ^R4 wherein:

X denotes an oxygen atom or an NRe radical,

R1 and Re denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical,

R2 denotes a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical, Rs, R4 and Rs denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical or a radical of formula (lllc): - (Y₂)_r— (CH₂-CH(R₇)-O) — R_g (lllc) in which:

Y, Y1 and Y2 denote, independently of one another, a linear or branched C2-C16 alkylene radical,

R7 denotes a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical or a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical,

Rs denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical, p, q and r denote, independently of one another, either the value zero or the value 1 , m and n denote, independently of one another, an integer ranging from 0 to 100 inclusive, x denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 100 inclusive,

Z denotes an anionic counterion of an organic or mineral acid, such as a halide, for instance chloride or bromide, or mesylate; with the proviso that: at least one of the substituents R3, R4, Rs or Rs denotes a linear or branched C9-C30 alkyl radical,

- if m or n is other than zero, then q is equal to 1 ,

- if m or n is equal to zero, then p or q is equal to 0.

The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked and may also be block polymers.

Preferably, the counterion Z- of the monomers of formula (Ic) is chosen from halide ions, phosphate ions, the methosulfate ion and the tosylate ion.

Preferably, R3, R4 and Rs denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical.

More preferentially, the monomer b) is a monomer of formula (Ic) for which, preferentially, m and n are equal to 0.

The vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam monomer is preferably a compound of structure (IVc):

in which s denotes an integer ranging from 3 to 6; R9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical and R10 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical, with the proviso that at least one of the radicals R9 and R10 denotes a hydrogen atom.

Even more preferentially, the monomer (IVc) is vinylpyrrolidone.

The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may also contain one or more additional monomers, preferably cationic or non-ionic monomers. As compounds that are particularly preferred, mention may be made of the following terpolymers comprising at least: a)-one monomer of formula (IVc), b)-one monomer of formula (Ic) in which p=1 , q=0, Rs and R4 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a C1-C5 alkyl radical and Rs denotes a linear or branched C9-C24 alkyl radical, and c)-one monomer of formula (lie) in which Rs and R4 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical.

Even more preferentially, terpolymers comprising, by weight, 40% to 95% of monomer (a), 0.1 % to 55% of monomer (c) and 0.25% to 50% of monomer (b) will be used. Such polymers are notably described in patent application WO-OO/68282. As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, the following are notably used:

- vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/dodecyldimethylmethacryl- amidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers,

- vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/cocoyldimethylmethacryl- amidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/lauryldimethylmethacryl- amidopropylammonium tosylate or chloride terpolymers.

The vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/lauryldimethylmethacryl- amidopropylammonium chloride terpolymer is notably sold by ISP under the names Styleze W10® and Styleze W20L® (INCI name: Polyquaternium-55).

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers is preferably between 500 and 20 000 000, more particularly between 200 000 and 2 000 000 and preferentially between 400 000 and 800 000.

- (D’) the cationic polymers obtained by polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising one or more vinyl monomers substituted with one or more amino groups, one or more hydrophobic non-ionic vinyl monomers, and one or more associative vinyl monomers, as described in patent application WO 2004/024779.

Among these polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the products of polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising:

- a di(Ci-C4 alkyl)amino(Ci-C6 alkyl) methacrylate,

- one or more C1-C30 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid,

- a polyethoxylated C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate (20-25 mol of ethylene oxide unit),

- a 30/5 polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol allyl ether,

- a hydroxy(C2-Ce alkyl) methacrylate, and

- an ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.

Such a polymer is, for example, the compound sold by Lubrizol under the name Carbopol Aqua CC® and which corresponds to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 Crosspolymer.

The non-ionic associative polymers are preferably chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

(1 ) celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, in particular C8-C32 and better still C14-C28 alkyl; preferably from:

- hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, in particular C8-C32 and better still C14-C28 alkyl, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22, for instance the cetylhydroxyethylcellulose sold notably under the reference Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (C16 alkyls) sold by Ashland, or the product Polysurf 67CS sold by Ashland,

- hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol ether alkyl phenol groups, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) ether of nonyl phenol) sold by Amerchol,

- and mixtures thereof;

(2) hydroxypropyl guars modified with groups including at least one fatty chain, in particular C8-C32 and better still C14-C28 alkyl, such as the product Esaflor HM 22 (C22 alkyl chain) sold by Lamberti, and the products RE210-18 (C14 alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C20 alkyl chain) sold by Rhodia;

(3) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of fatty-chain hydrophobic monomers, in particular C8-C32 and better still C14-C28 alkyl. Mention may be made, by way of example, of:

- the vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer and in particular the products Antaron V216 or Ganex V216 sold by ISP;

- the vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer and in particular the products Antaron V220 or Ganex V220 sold by ISP;

(4) copolymers of C-i-Ce alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, in particular C8-C32 and better still C14-C28 alkyl, for instance the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate/stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by Goldschmidt under the name Antil 208;

(5) copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, in particular C8-C32 and better still C14-C28 alkyl, for instance the polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer;

(6) polyurethane polyethers comprising in their chain both hydrophilic blocks usually of polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic blocks, which may be aliphatic sequences alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic sequences;

(7) polymers comprising an aminoplast ether backbone having at least one fatty chain, in particular C8-C32 and better still C14-C28 alkyl, such as the Pure Thix compounds sold by Sud-Chemie.

Preferably, the polyurethane polyethers include at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendent chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic block. In particular, it is possible for one or more pendent chains to be envisaged. In addition, the polymer may include a hydrocarbon-based chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.

The polyurethane polyethers may be multiblock, in particular in triblock form. The hydrophobic blocks may be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer bearing a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (for example, multiblock copolymer). These same polymers may also be graft polymers or star polymers.

The fatty-chain non-ionic polyurethane polyethers may be triblock copolymers, the hydrophilic block of which is a polyoxyethylenated chain including from 50 to 1000 oxyethylene groups. The non-ionic polyurethane polyethers include a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, whence the origin of the name.

By extension, also included among the non-ionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers are those in which the hydrophilic blocks are linked to the lipophilic blocks via other chemical bonds.

As examples of non-ionic fatty-chain polyurethane polyethers that may be used in the invention, use may also be made of Rheolate 205® bearing a urea function, sold by Rheox, or Rheolate® 208, 204 or 212, and also Acrysol RM 184®. Mention may also be made of the product Elfacos T210® containing a C12-C14 alkyl chain, and the product Elfacos T212® containing a C18 alkyl chain, from Akzo. The product DW 1206B® from Rohm & Haas bearing a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, sold at a solids content of 20% in water, may also be used.

Use may also be made of solutions or dispersions of these polymers, notably in water or in aqueous-alcoholic medium. Examples of such polymers that may be mentioned include Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 sold by Rheox. Use may also be made of the products DW 1206F and DW 1206J sold by Rohm & Haas.

The polyurethane polyethers that may be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sol. 271 , 380.389 (1993).

It is even more particularly preferred to use a polyurethane polyether that may be obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

Such polyurethane polyethers are sold notably by Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44® [Aculyn 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of stearyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81 %); Aculyn 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 150 or 180 mol of ethylene oxide, of decyl alcohol and of methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%)].

Preferably, the composition comprises one or more non-ionic associative polymers, preferentially chosen from polyurethane polyethers.

Preferably, the associative polymer(s) are present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1 % to 1.5% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the non-ionic associative polymer(s) are present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1 % to 1 .5% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the non-ionic associative polymer(s) chosen from polyurethane polyethers are present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1 % to 1 .5% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(iii) Cationic polymer

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic polymers other than the associative polymers described above. This or these cationic polymer(s) are therefore non-associative.

The cationic polymers according to the invention are non-silicone (i.e. do not contain silicone atom).

The term “cationic polymer” means any polymer comprising cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups and not comprising any anionic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into anionic groups.

The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those that contain units including primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups that may either form part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a side substituent directly connected thereto.

The cationic polymers that may be used preferably have a weight-average molar mass (Mw) of between 500 and 5x10⁶ approximately and preferably between 10³ and 3x10⁶ approximately.

Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of:

(1 ) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and including at least one of the units having the following formulae:

in which:

- R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; -A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched divalent alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

- R4, Rs and Re, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical, and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

- R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;

- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The copolymers of family (1 ) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (C1-C4) alkyls, acrylic acids or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, and vinyl esters.

Among these copolymers of family (1 ), mention may be made of:

- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by Hercules,

- copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as the products sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by Ciba Geigy,

- the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as the product sold under the name Reten by Hercules, - quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by ISP, for instance Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573;

- dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by ISP,

- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP;

- quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by ISP;

- polymers, preferably crosslinked polymers, of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci- C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. Mention may in particular be made of Polyquaternium-37 (INCI name). Use may be made more particularly of a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by Ciba. Use may also be made of a crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride homopolymer comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by Ciba;

(2) cationic polysaccharides, notably cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.

The cellulose ether derivatives including quaternary ammonium groups are notably described in FR 1 492 597, and mention may be made of the polymers sold under the name Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400 LT, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 and LR 30M) by Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose which has reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described notably in patent US 4 131 576, and mention may be made of hydroxyalkyl celluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses notably grafted with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt. The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by National Starch.

The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307, and mention may be made of guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups. Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt (for example, a chloride). Such products are notably sold under the names Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 by Rhodia;

(3) polymers formed from piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals containing linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers;

(4) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis- haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they include one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized;

(5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylaminohydroxyalkyldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical includes from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by Sandoz;

(6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine including two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1 ; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably of between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by Hercules Inc. or under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer;

(7) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (I) or (II):

in which

- k and t are equal to 0 or 1 , the sum k + t being equal to 1 ;

- R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

- R10 and R11, independently of one another, denote a C-i-Ce alkyl group, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or alternatively R10 and R11 may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R10 and R11, independently of one another, preferably denote a C1-C4 alkyl group;

-Y’ is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.

Mention may more particularly be made of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride), for example sold under the name Merquat 100 by Nalco, having the INCI name Polyquaternium-6 and of the copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride) and of acrylamide sold in particular under the name Merquat 550 or Merquat 7SPR, having the INCI name Polyquaternium-7;

(8) diquaternary ammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula (III):

¹³ R₁₅

- N+ ~A₁ — N+— B₁ —

R„ ^X' ^R16 ^X‘ in which:

- R13, R14, R15 and R , which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-C12 hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and R , together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and R represent a linear or branched C-i-Ce alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group -CO-O-R17-D or -CO- NH-R17-D where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

- A1 and Bi represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which can be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated, and which can contain, bonded to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups; and

- X’ denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; it being understood that Ai, R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; in addition, if A1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi may also denote a (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)_P- group with n and p, which may be identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting: a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2CH2O)x-CH₂CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O]_y-CH₂CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or else the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-; d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

Preferably, X’ is an anion, such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally of between 1000 and 100 000.

Mention may be made more particularly of polymers which are constituted of repeating units corresponding to the formula:

in which R1, R2, R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 20, and X’ is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

A compound of formula (IV) that is particularly preferred is the one for which R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical and n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, which is known as Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature;

(9) polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V):

in which: - R18, Ri9, R20 and R21 , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer of between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom;

- r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,

- q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,

- X’ denotes an anion such as a halide,

- A denotes a divalent radical of a dihalide or preferably represents CH2CH2OCH2- CH2.

Examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol® A 15, Mirapol® AD1 , Mirapol® AZ1 and Mirapol® 175 sold by Miranol;

(10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by BASF;

(11 ) polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by Cognis, which is referenced under the name Polyethylene Glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine in the CTFA dictionary;

(12) polymers including in their structure:

(a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:

(b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:

In other words, these polymers may be notably chosen from homopolymers or copolymers including one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers including, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B).

These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.

The weight-average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g/mol.

The polymers including units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are notably sold under the name Lupamin by BASF, for instance, in a non-limiting manner, the products sold under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010.

Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolyzates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers comprising vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.

The cationic polymers are preferably chosen from those of families (1 ), (2), (7) and (10) mentioned above; and even better still from those of family (1 ).

Among the cationic polymers, the ones that may preferably be used are cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums, and in particular quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name JR 400 by Amerchol, cationic cyclopolymers, in particular dimethyldiallylammonium salt (for example chloride) homopolymers or copolymers, sold under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Merquat S by Nalco, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci- C4)alkylammonium salts; and mixtures thereof.

Preferentially, the cationic polymer(s) can be chosen from optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci- C4)alkylammonium salts and mixtures thereof, in particular from homopolymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltrimethylammonium salts, and better still from polymers having the INCI name Polyquaternium-37.

The composition according to the invention comprises the cationic polymer(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.01 % to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and preferentially from 0.1 % to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more cationic polymers chosen from family (1 ) above in a total amount ranging from 0.01 % to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight and preferentially from 0.1 % to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Other ingredients

The composition according to the present invention can also comprise one or more fatty substances, notably one or more liquid fatty substances (25°C, 1 atm), and in particular one or more fatty esters, which are preferably liquid (25°C, 1 atm).

Preferably, the additional fatty substance(s) are not silicone fatty substances (do not contain Si-0 bonds) and are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

The term “fatty” is intended to mean that the compound comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based chain which is Cs or more, notably C8-C40. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can comprise one or more liquid fatty substances chosen from oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, mineral oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof.

It is recalled that the fatty alcohols, esters and acids more particularly contain at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based group comprising from 8 to 40 and better still from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more liquid fatty esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol, notably chosen from esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 8, notably greater than or equal to 10. Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched. Preferentially, the liquid ester is chosen from liquid esters of a monoacid and of a monoalcohol.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl palmitate and isopropyl palmitate such as 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2 -hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and of monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate or isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

Esters of C4 to C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of Ci to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C2 to C26 di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used. Mention may notably be made of diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate; tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

When they are present, the composition according to the invention can comprise the fatty ester(s), notably liquid fatty ester(s), in a total amount ranging from 0.5% to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 10% by weight and preferentially from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention may comprise water, preferably in a total content ranging from 60% to 99% by weight, preferably from 70% to 98% by weight, better from 80% to 95% by weight, or even from 85% to 94% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

They can also comprise one or more organic solvents, notably chosen from linear or branched C-i-Ce monoalcohols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; C2-C10 polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol (1 ,2-propanediol), propylene glycol monomethyi ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, hexylene glycol; and aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol.

Preferably, the organic solvents are chosen from C1-C4 monoalcohols, notably ethanol and isopropanol; diols, such as butane-1 ,4-diol, butane-1 ,2-diol, butane-1 ,3- diol, butane-2,3-diol, propane-1 ,2-diol (propylene glycol), pentane-1 , 2-diol, pentane-1 ,5-diol, pentane-2,4-diol, pentane-1 ,3-diol, hexane-1 ,6-diol, hexane-1 ,2- diol, hexane-2,5-diol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol (hexylene glycol), diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, triethylene glycol; triols, such as hexane-1 ,2, 6-triol, glycerol; tetraols, such as erythritol; benzyl alcohol; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are aqueous.

The compositions in accordance with the invention can also comprise various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, such as, alone or as a mixture: non-ionic surfactants; organic or mineral thickeners other than the associative polymers described above; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestrants; fragrances; dispersants; conditioning agents; film-forming agents; ceramides; preserving agents and opacifiers.

Needless to say, those skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compounds such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition in accordance with the invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition(s).

The above adjuvants can generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0.01 % and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition containing them.

The compositions according to the invention may be in various galenical forms, such as a powder, a lotion, a mousse, a cream or a gel, or in any other form that is suitable for carrying out a cosmetic treatment of keratin materials. They may also be packaged in a propellant-free pump-action bottle or pressurized in an aerosol container in the presence of a propellant and may form a foam.

A subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for treating keratin materials, notably keratin fibres, notably human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials, notably keratin fibres, of a composition as defined above.

The composition according to the invention may be applied to dry or wet keratin materials that have optionally been washed beforehand with shampoo. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is applied to wet keratin materials or fibres.

The composition according to the invention can be applied with a leave-on time that may range from 1 to 15 minutes, preferably from 2 to 10 minutes.

After application of the composition according to the invention, the keratin materials can be rinsed with water, before being dried or left to dry. There is preferably no rinsing step.

A subject of the invention is also the use of a composition as defined above, for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, notably keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.

The composition can be used on wet or dry hair, in rinse-off or leave-on mode, and preferably in leave-on mode (that is to say that the keratin materials are not rinsed after application of the composition).

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:

(i) one or more alpha, omega-bis-amino silicones corresponding to formula (I)

in which:

- x is between 0 and 6, y is between 0 and 6, and

- n is such that the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the amino silicone is between 5000 and 200 000; preferably in a total content ranging from 0.001 % to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.005% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01 % to 1 % and better still from 0.02% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

(ii) one or more non-ionic associative polymers, preferentially chosen from polyurethane polyethers; preferably, in a total content ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.05% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.1 % to 1 .5% by weight, and better still from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

(iii) one or more cationic polymers chosen from family (1 ) described above, preferentially chosen from optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium salts and mixtures thereof; preferably in a total amount ranging from 0.01 % to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight, and preferentially from 0.1 % to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

Example 1

The hair care compositions according to the invention are prepared from the following ingredients (% by weight of active material AM):

[Table 1 ]

The compositions thus obtained can be used as leave-on compositions (application without subsequent rinsing off) on the hair, notably on damaged hair. They give the hair a good level of care, notably a smooth feel, softness and lightness. After application, the hair is supple, separated into individual strands and manageable (no “packets” and no cardboard effect).

These effects are uniform from the root to the end of the hair. Example 2

The composition A1 according to the invention, prepared in Example 1 , is evaluated in comparison with a commercial reference, the leave-on, silicone-based repair care product for damaged hair Elseve CicaRepair - L'Oreal Paris.

These compositions are evaluated on a half head, on six individuals with very damaged medium-long to long hair.

The hair is first of all washed and conditioned by application of a conventional dual repair care product {shampoo + mask} for damaged hair (Elseve Total Repair 5 from I’Oreal Paris), and is then rinsed and dried using a towel.

The composition A1 or the commercial composition is then applied, per half head. For a given head, an identical amount of composition is applied to each half head, it being possible for said identical amount to range from 3.5 to 7.5 g per half head, depending on the length of the hair. There is no rinsing off. The head of hair is then dried with a hairdryer while passing a brush through the hair, and an evaluation is carried out (TO).

After 24 h, the hair is washed with a shampoo and then dried, and another evaluation is carried out (T 1 sh).

The expert carries out the evaluations by comparing each half head. Each criterion is evaluated blind and the expert indicates which half head is the most effective on the basis of the criterion tested.

The following results are obtained:

T>R means that the tested composition of the invention is better than the reference. T=R means that the tested composition of the invention is equivalent to the reference.

T<R means that the tested composition of the invention is not as good as the reference.

[Table 2]

It is noted that, on application, the composition of the invention gives dry hair virtually at least as much, or even in certain cases more, cosmetic effect compared to the reference leave-on care product, which comprises silicones in a large amount (5 times greater). It notably provides more lightness (hair that is more separated into individual strands, much more tonic and much less weighed-down looking).

The composition according to the present invention thus meets the challenge of damaged hair repair.

After a shampoo wash, the hair treated with the invention exhibits more particularly much greater smoothness to the touch, and also a smoother look, than with the reference. It is more coated (gliding coating), with a more uniform feel from the route to the ends, with greater manageability. The benefits obtained by virtue of the composition according to the invention endure after a shampoo wash.

Example 3

The comparative hair composition B1 is prepared from the following ingredients (% by weight of active material AM); as a reminder, the composition of A1 (Example 1 ) is also indicated:

[Table 3]

The composition A1 according to the invention and the comparative composition B1 are evaluated on locks of medium-sensitized Caucasian hair (SA20) of 2.7 g and 27 cm in length.

The locks are treated beforehand and conditioned by application of a conventional dual repair product (shampoo + mask Elseve Total Repair 5 from I’Oreal Paris), then the locks are rinsed and dried using a towel.

The composition A1 or the composition B1 is then applied in a proportion of 0.36 g/g of hair, no rinsing off is carried out, and drying is carried out with a hairdryer.

A 1 st evaluation is carried out (TO on dry hair).

After 24 h, the hair is washed with a conventional shampoo and then the hair is dried and then a 2nd evaluation is carried out (T1 shampoo on dry hair). 3 experts carry out the evaluations using a comb for the disentangling, and by feel for the other properties.

Each criterion is evaluated blind and the expert gives a score ranging from 0 (no difference between the two compositions) to 2 (very large difference between the two compositions), in increments of 0.5. The sign preceding the score indicates if the difference is in favour of the invention (+) or not in favour of the invention (-).

The following results are obtained (average of the 3 scores):

[Table 4]

It is noted that, with the composition according to the invention, the hair is much smoother than with the comparative application on application.

This superiority endures after a shampoo wash.

The formulas according to the invention result in much easier disentangling, a considerable care coating, a very marked level of smoothness, and ends which are much more hydrated. This is not the case with the formulas comprising an amidomethicone, the performance results of which are greatly reduced after shampoo washing.

Claims

33 CLAIMS

1. Cosmetic composition comprising:

(i) one or more alpha, omega-bis-amino silicones,

(ii) one or more associative polymers and

2. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the alpha, omega-bis- amino silicone(s) (i) are chosen from the silicones corresponding to formula (I) below:

in which:

- the R radicals represent, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, an OH group or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl group,

- x is between 0 and 6, y is between 0 and 6 and n is such that the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the amino silicone is between 5000 and 200 000; preferably chosen from the silicones of formula (I) in which:

- the R radicals are identical and represent CH3 (methyl); and/or

- R1, R2, R3 and R4, independently of one another, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1- C4, better still C2-C4, alkyl group, which is preferably linear and saturated, in particular ethyl; or a C2-C4 aminoalkyl group, in particular of structure -(CaH2a)-NH2 with a = 2 to 4; in particular aminoethyl (-CH2-CH2-NH2); and/or

- x is between 1 and 5, better still between 2 and 4, even better still x=3; and/or

- y is between 1 and 5, better still between 2 and 4, even better still y=3; preferentially chosen from the amino silicones of formula (I) in which R = methyl, x = y = 3 and R1 = R2 = R3 = R4 = H.

3. Composition according to either one of the preceding claims, in which the composition comprises a total content of alpha, omega-bis-amino silicone(s) ranging from 0.001 % to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.005% to 5% by weight, more preferentially from 0.01 % to 1 % and better still from 0.02% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the associative polymers are chosen from non-ionic associative polymers, preferably from, alone or as a mixture: 34

(1 ) celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, notably Cs- C32 and better still C14-C28 alkyl; preferably from hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably C8-C22 alkyl groups, such as cetylhydroxyethylcellulose; and hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with polyalkylene glycol alkyl phenyl ether groups, and mixtures thereof;

(2) hydroxypropylguars modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, notably C8-C32 and better still C14-C28 alkyl;

(3) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of fatty-chain hydrophobic monomers, in particular C8-C32 and better still C14-C28 alkyl; such as vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer or the vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer;

(4) copolymers of C-i-Ce alkyl methacrylates or acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, notably C8-C32 and better still C14- C28 alkyl; for instance the oxyethylenated methyl acrylate/stearyl acrylate copolymer;

(7) polymers with an am inoplast ether backbone bearing at least one fatty chain, notably C8-C32 and better still C14-C28 alkyl.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the associative polymers are chosen from polyurethane polyethers and notably those comprising at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, the hydrocarbon-based chains possibly being pendent chains or chains at the end of a hydrophilic block; preferably chosen from polyether polyurethanes that may be obtained polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 mol of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol, and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a total content of associative polymer(s) ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05% to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 % to 1.5% by weight, preferentially from 0.2% to 0.8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the cationic polymers are chosen from:

in which:

- X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide;

(2) cationic polysaccharides, notably cationic celluloses and galactomannan gums;

(4) water-soluble polyamino amides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine;

(5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents;

(6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine including two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms;

in which

- k and t are equal to 0 or 1 , the sum k + t being equal to 1 ;

- R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

(8) diquaternary ammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula (III):

R₁₃ R₁₅

- N+ -A, -N+-B₁ —

R₁₄ ^X’ ^R16 ^X' in which:

- R13, R14, R15 and R , which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-C12 hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and R , together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R13, R14, R15 and R represent a linear or branched Ci-Ce alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group -CO-O-R17-D or -CO- NH-R17-D where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

- X' denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; it being understood that A1, R13 and R15 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; in addition, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi may also denote a (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)_P- group with n and p, which may be identical or different, being integers ranging from 2 to 20, and D denoting: a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, in which Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae: -(CH2-CH2-O)_X-CH2-CH₂- and -[CH2-CH(CH₃)-O]_y-CH₂-CH(CH₃)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, in which Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or else the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-; d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-

(9) polyquaternary ammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V):

in which:

- R18, R19, R20 and R21 , which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, [3-hydroxyethyl, [3-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer of between 1 and 6, with the proviso that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom;

- r and s, which may be identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,

- q is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 34,

- X’ denotes an anion such as a halide,

(10) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole;

(11 ) polyamines;

(12) polymers including in their structure:

(a) one or more units corresponding to formula (A) below:

38

(b) optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:

the cationic polymers preferably being chosen from those of families (1 ), (2), (7) and (10) mentioned above; and even better still from those of family (1 ).

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more cationic polymers chosen from cationic polysaccharides, notably celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums, and in particular quaternary cellulose ether derivatives; cationic cyclopolymers, in particular homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride); quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, optionally crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyltri(Ci- C4)alkylammonium salts; and mixtures thereof.

9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the cationic polymer(s) in a total amount ranging from 0.05% to 3% by weight and preferentially from 0.1 % to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more fatty substances, preferably liquid fatty substances, preferably chosen from oils of triglyceride type of plant or synthetic origin, mineral oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol other than triglycerides, and mixtures thereof; preferentially one or more liquid fatty esters of a fatty acid and/or of a fatty alcohol, notably chosen from esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear Ci to C26 or branched C3 to C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6 and more advantageously greater than or equal to 8, notably greater than or equal to 10.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising water, preferably in a total amount ranging from 60% to 99% by weight, preferably from 70% to 98% by weight, better from 80% to 95% by weight, or even from 85% to 94% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

12. Cosmetic process for treating keratin materials, notably keratin fibres, notably human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.

13. Use of a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 11 , for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibres, notably human keratin 39 fibres such as the hair.