WO2018108919A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising an organosilane, at least one cationic polymer and a particular combination of surfactants - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition comprising an organosilane, at least one cationic polymer and a particular combination of surfactants Download PDF

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WO2018108919A1
WO2018108919A1 PCT/EP2017/082435 EP2017082435W WO2018108919A1 WO 2018108919 A1 WO2018108919 A1 WO 2018108919A1 EP 2017082435 W EP2017082435 W EP 2017082435W WO 2018108919 A1 WO2018108919 A1 WO 2018108919A1
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group
branched
linear
alkyl
weight
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PCT/EP2017/082435
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French (fr)
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Audrey CORREIA
Estelle Mathonneau
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L'oreal
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/442Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof substituted by amido group(s)
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/463Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfuric acid derivatives, e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4993Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/58Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing atoms other than carbon, hydrogen, halogen, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus
    • A61K8/585Organosilicon compounds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • Cosmetic composition comprising an organosilane, at least one cationic polymer and a particular combination of surfactants
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more organosilanes, one or more cationic polymers and a particular combination of surfactants comprising anionic, non- ionic and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres using said composition.
  • the present invention relates to the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, in particular for conferring cosmetic care on the keratin fibres, such as disentangling, which is persistent with respect to shampooing operations.
  • Hair is generally damaged and embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and/or by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent- waving and/or relaxing.
  • external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather
  • mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent- waving and/or relaxing.
  • These haircare compositions may be, for example, conditioning shampoos or compositions to be applied before or after washing with shampoo, and may be in the form of gels, hair lotions or creams of varying thickness.
  • compositions are for example described in patent applications FR 2 954 100 and FR 3 029 110.
  • the care compositions described in the prior art secure conditioning and disentangling properties that do not last sufficiently long. Specifically, these properties generally do not sufficiently resist washing and tend to rapidly diminish. The effect of persistence of the conditioning and disentangling properties is generally limited to three shampooing operations.
  • composition comprising one or more organosilanes, one or more cationic polymers and a particular combination of surfactants comprising anionic, non-ionic and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants makes it possible to respond to the technical problems set out above.
  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
  • the weight ratio of the total amount of anionic surfactant(s) to the total amount of non- ionic surfactant(s) being less than or equal to 5.
  • composition according to the invention secures a particularly satisfactory coating for hair, and in particular gives it softness, suppleness, smoothness, lightness, volume, and a natural non-greasy, lightweight feel.
  • This composition also provides hair with improved disentangling ability.
  • the properties afforded by the composition according to the invention, and in particular the disentangling properties satisfactorily withstand the various attacks to which the hair may be subjected, such as light, bad weather, washing and perspiration. They are particularly persistent with respect to shampooing operations, especially after at least five shampooing operations.
  • composition according to the invention has good stability, especially over time.
  • a subject of the present invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, using said composition.
  • compositions for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, in particular for conditioning keratin fibres, or conferring cosmetic care on the keratin fibres, such as disentangling, that is persistent with respect to shampooing operations.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more organosilanes.
  • organosilane(s) that can be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from the compounds of formula (I) and/or hydrolysis products thereof and/or oligomers thereof:
  • Ri is a cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci to C 22 , in particular C 2 to C 2 o, hydrocarbon-based chain, which may be substituted with one or more group(s) chosen from amine groups NH 2 or NHR, R being a linear or branched Ci to C20, in particular Ci to C 6 , alkyl, or a C3 to C40 cycloalkyl or a C 6 to C30 aromatic radical; the hydroxyl group; a thiol group; an aryl group, more particularly benzyl, which is unsubstituted or substituted with an NH 2 or NHR group; it being possible for Ri to be interrupted with an oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen heteroatom or a carbonyl group;
  • R 2 and R3 which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
  • - y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3
  • - z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3
  • - x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2
  • oligomer is intended to mean the polymerization products of the compounds of formula (I) comprising from 2 to 10 silicon atoms.
  • Ri is a linear or branched, more preferentially linear, saturated Ci to C22, in particular C 2 to C12, hydrocarbon-based chain, which may be substituted with one or more amine group(s) NH 2 or NHR, R being a Ci to C20, in particular Ci to C 6 , alkyl.
  • R 2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferentially a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and in particular an ethyl group.
  • z ranges from 1 to 3.
  • y is equal to 0.
  • z is equal to 3.
  • x and y are equal to 0 and z is equal to 0.
  • the organosilane(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) in which Ri represents a linear alkyl group comprising from 7 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 7 to 12 carbon atoms, or a Ci to C 6 , preferably C 2 to C 4 , aminoalkyl group.
  • Ri represents an octyl group.
  • the organosilane(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) in which Ri is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci to C22 hydrocarbon-based chain, substituted with one or more amine group(s) NH 2 or NHR, R being a linear or branched Ci to C20, preferably Ci to C 6 , alkyl, or a C3 to C40 cycloalkyl or a C 6 to C30 aromatic.
  • Ri represents a d to C 6 , more preferentially C2 to C 4 , aminoalkyl group.
  • the organosilane(s) that can be used according to the invention are chosen from octyltriethoxysilane (OTES), dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltriethoxysilane, hexadecyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 2-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3- aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3-(m-aminophenoxy)propyltrimethoxysilane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, N-(2- aminoethylaminomethyl)phenethyltrimethoxysilane, hydrolysis products thereof, oligomers thereof and mixtures thereof; and more particularly the organosilane(s), o
  • the organosilane is 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane
  • the organosilanes used in the composition of the invention may be partially or totally neutralized in order to improve the water solubility thereof.
  • the neutralizer may be chosen from organic or mineral acids, such as citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid or hydrochloric acid.
  • the optionally neutralized organosilane(s) that can be used according to the invention are water-soluble and especially soluble at a concentration of 2% by weight, better still at a concentration of 5% by weight and even better still at a concentration of 10% by weight in water at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1 atm).
  • soluble indicates the formation of a single macroscopic phase.
  • the organosilane(s) generally represent from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises one or more cationic polymers (ii).
  • cationic polymer denotes any polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to give cationic groups.
  • the cationic polymer(s) (ii) present in the composition according to the invention may be chosen from any of those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of the hair, i.e. especially those described in patent application EP-A-337 354 and in French patents FR-2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611 , 2 470 596 and 2 519 863.
  • the cationic polymer(s) (ii) used generally have a number-average molecular weight of between 500 and 5x 10 6 g/mol approximately and preferably between 10 3 and 3x 10 6 g/mol approximately.
  • cationic polymers mention may more particularly be made of polymers of the type such as polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammonium.
  • the cationic polymers (ii) used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be chosen from:
  • R 3 which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 radical
  • A which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • R 4 , R-5 and Re which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • Ri and R 2 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably a methyl or ethyl radical;
  • X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
  • the polymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (Ci-C 4 ) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcapro lactam, and vinyl esters.
  • comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (Ci-C 4 ) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcapro lactam, and vinyl esters.
  • dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,
  • quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP, and
  • the crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyl tri(Ci- C4)alkylammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefmically unsaturated compound, more particularly methylenebisacrylamide.
  • Use may more particularly be made of a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil.
  • This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare ® SC 92 by the company Ciba.
  • Use may also be made of a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare ® SC 95 and Salcare ® SC 96 by the company Ciba.
  • the commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
  • Cationic guar gums in particular those described more particularly in US patents 3 589 578 and 4 031 307, such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups.
  • Guar gums modified with a salt (e.g. chloride) of 2,3- epoxypropyltrimethylammonium are used, for example.
  • Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis- haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyamino
  • Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylamino hydroxy alky ldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl radicals. Such polymers are in particular described in French patent 1 583 363.
  • Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 3227615 and 2961347.
  • Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or else under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.
  • k and t are equal to 0 or 1 , the sum k + 1 being equal to 1 ;
  • R9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
  • R7 and Rs independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a (C1-C4) lower amidoalkyl group; or R7 and Rs may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; R7 and Rs, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • Y " is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate.
  • Rio, Rii, Ri2 and Ri 3 which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or alternatively Rio, Rii, R12 and R13, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively Rio, R11 , R12 and R13 represent a linear or branched Ci-C 6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group -CO-O-R14-D or -CO- NH-R14-D where R14 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
  • Ai and Bi represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
  • X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid
  • Ai, Rio and R12 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; in addition, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi can also denote a group - (CH 2 )n-CO-D-OC-(CH 2 )n- in which D denotes:
  • a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative
  • X " is an anion, such as chloride or bromide.
  • These polymers have a number-average molecular weight generally between 1000 and 100 000.
  • Rio, R11, R12 and R13 which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 8 approximately, and X " is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid. Mention may be made in particular of Mexomere PO sold by the company Chimex.
  • D may be zero or may represent a group (CH 2 )r-CO- in which r denotes a number equal to 4 or 7, and X " is an anion.
  • Such polymers may be prepared according to the processes described in US patents 4 157 388, 4 702 906 and 4 719 282. They are especially described in patent application EP-A-122 324.
  • examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol A 15, Mirapol AD1, Mirapol AZ1 and Mirapol 175 sold by the company Miranol.
  • Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF. These polymers may also comprise other monomers, for instance diallyldialkylammonium halides. Mention may be made in particular of the product sold under the name Luviquat Sensation by the company BASF.
  • Cationic polyamines such as Polyquart H sold by Henkel, which is referenced under the name Polyethylene glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine in the CTFA dictionary, or oxyethylenated (15 OE) coconut polyamines.
  • cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, polyquaternary ureylenes and chitin derivatives.
  • cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use the polymers of families (1), (2), (3), (4), (9), (10) and (12), more particularly the polymers of families (2) and (9), and better still the polymers of family (9).
  • the cationic polymer(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are chosen from dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymers and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide, and even more preferentially the cationic polymer is the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer (polyquaternium-6).
  • the cationic polymer(s) generally represent from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.3%> to 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
  • the weight ratio in the cosmetic composition according to the invention between the organosilane(s) and the cationic polymer(s) ranges from 0.1 to 20, more preferentially from 0.5 to 15.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises one or more anionic surfactants.
  • anionic surfactant is intended to mean a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups C0 2 H, CO2 " , SO3H, SO3-, OSO3H, OSO3-, H2PO3, HPO3-, PO3 2" , H2PO2, HPO2 " , PO2 2” , POH and PO ⁇
  • the anionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from anionic surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate and/or phosphate and/or carboxylate groups, and/or mixtures thereof, preferably the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate and/or phosphate groups, alkyl ether carboxylic anionic surfactants, and/or mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more alkyl ether carboxylic anionic surfactants.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of anionic surfactants and especially one or more anionic surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate and/or phosphate groups and one or more alkyl ether carboxylic anionic surfactants.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) comprising in their structure one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate and/or phosphate groups may be oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated.
  • the total average number of ethylene oxide (EO) and/or propylene oxide (PO) groups may then range from 1 to 50 and especially from 2 to 10.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) comprising in their structure one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate and/or phosphate groups may be chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkylamido sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl ether sulfates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, acyl isethionates and methyl acyl taurates, olefin sulfonates, and salts thereof; the alkyl or acyl group of all these various compounds preferably containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group.
  • anionic surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate and/or phosphate groups
  • anionic sulfated surfactants preferentially chosen from Cs-Ci4 and more particularly C12-C14 alkyl ether sulfates, and/or one or more sulfonate anionic surfactants chosen from olefin sulfonates.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) comprising in their structure one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate and/or phosphate groups are in the form of salts, and in particular of alkaline salts, especially sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, including amino alcohol salts, and/or magnesium salts.
  • These salts preferably comprise from 2 to 5 ethylene oxide groups.
  • sodium, triethanolamine, magnesium or ammonium (C12- Ci4)alkyl sulfates and/or sodium, ammonium or magnesium (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl ether sulfates, which are oxyethylenated, for example with 1 or 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide, or sodium olefin sulfonates, are more preferably used.
  • the surfactant(s) comprising in their structure one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate and/or phosphate groups are chosen from sodium, ammonium or magnesium (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl ether sulfates oxyethylenated with 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide, as sold under the name Texapon N702 by the company Cognis.
  • anionic surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate and/or phosphate groups, it is preferred to use sodium or ammonium lauryl ether sulfates or sodium olefin sulfonates.
  • alkyl ether carboxylic anionic surfactant(s) that may be used according to the invention preferably comprise a C6-C24 alkyl chain.
  • alkyl ether carboxylic anionic surfactant(s) may be chosen, alone or as a mixture or mixtures, from:
  • the alkyl ether carboxylic anionic surfactant(s) may be oxyalkylenated, preferably oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated.
  • the total average number of alkylene oxide groups then preferably ranges from 2 to 50, in particular from 2 to 24 and better still from 2 to 15.
  • the alkyl ether carboxylic anionic surfactant(s) are oxyalkylenated, they preferably comprise from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups and in particular from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide (EO) groups.
  • the alkyl ether carboxylic anionic surfactant(s) are neutralized with one or more salts.
  • the salts are chosen in particular from alkaline salts and especially sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, including amino alcohol salts such as triethanolamine or monoethanolamine salts, and magnesium salts.
  • polyethoxylated carboxylic anionic surfactants more preferably used are those corresponding to formula (XI) below:
  • Ri represents a linear or branched Cs-C 22 alkyl or alkenyl group or a mixture of groups, a (Cs-C ⁇ alkylphenyl group, a group R 2 CONH-CH 2 -CH 2 - with R 2 denoting a linear or branched Cn-C 21 alkyl or alkenyl group,
  • n is an integer or decimal number (average value) that may range from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 15,
  • A denotes H, NH 4 , Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
  • Mixtures of compounds of formula (XI) may also be used, in particular mixtures in which the groups Ri are different.
  • Ri denotes a group or a mixture of groups chosen from C 12 -C 14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl and octylphenyl groups;
  • A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom; and n ranges from 2 to 20 and preferably from 2 to 10.
  • Ri denotes a C 12 alkyl group
  • A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom
  • n ranges from 2 to 10.
  • alkyl ether carboxylic anionic surfactants use is preferably made of lauryl ether carboxylic acids or sodium lauryl ether carboxylates.
  • the anionic surfactants are chosen from sulfated anionic surfactants, chosen especially from Cs-Ci 4 alkyl ether sulfates and alkyl ether carboxylic surfactants.
  • composition according to the invention comprises one or more alkyl ether carboxylic surfactants corresponding to formula (XI).
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of sulfated anionic surfactants, chosen especially from Cs-Ci 4 and more particularly Ci 2 -Ci 4 alkyl ether sulfates, and alkyl ether carboxylic surfactants corresponding to formula (XI) as described previously.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) generally represent from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 18% by weight, more preferentially from 4% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants.
  • the non-ionic surfactant(s) present in the composition according to the invention are described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pages 1 16-178.
  • non-ionic surfactants examples include the following non- ionic surfactants:
  • the oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.
  • the number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges in particular from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 10.
  • non-ionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise any oxypropylene units.
  • glycerolated non-ionic surfactants use is preferably made of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated Cs to C40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol.
  • lauryl alcohol comprising 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol comprising 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol comprising 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol comprising 6 mol of glycerol and octadecanol comprising 6 mol of glycerol.
  • glycerolated alcohols it is more particularly preferred to use the Cs to Cio alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the C10 to C12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.
  • non-ionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferentially chosen from:
  • - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated Cs to C40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and preferably comprising one or two fatty chains;
  • - monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated Cs to C40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol and preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol;
  • the non-ionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from: - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated Cs to C40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains;
  • the non- ionic surfactant(s) are chosen from:
  • - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated Cs to C40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains.
  • the non-ionic surfactants are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated Cs to C40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol, or even from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising at least one C8-C20 and especially Cio-Cis alkyl chain; especially lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-4) and lauryl alcohol containing 12 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-12), and esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cs to C30 acids and of sorbitol, which are preferably oxyethylenated.
  • saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated Cs to C40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol, or even from
  • non-ionic surfactant(s) are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated Cs to C40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol, or even from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising at least one C8-C20 and especially Cio-Cis alkyl chain; especially lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-4) and lauryl alcohol containing 12 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-12).
  • the non-ionic surfactant(s) generally represent from 2% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 4% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
  • the weight ratio of the total amount of anionic surfactant(s) to the total amount of non- ionic surfactant(s) is less than or equal to 5.
  • this weight ratio ranges from 0.1 to 5, more preferentially from 0.2 to 4.5, even more preferentially from 0.3 to 4, better still from 0.35 to 3 and even better still from 0.4 to 2.5.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), which are preferably non-silicone, used in the composition according to the present invention may especially be derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines which are optionally quaternized, in which derivatives the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
  • Ra represents a Cio to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH preferably present in hydro lysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
  • - Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group
  • - M + represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • - X " represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci- C 4 )alkyl- or (Ci-C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M + and X " are absent; Ra ' -CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (XIII) in which formula:
  • - B represents the group -CH2CH2OX'
  • - X * represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ'
  • - Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ' or
  • - Z' represents a cationic counterion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine;
  • Ra' represents a C10 to C 3 o alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'-COOH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a C 17 group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C 17 group.
  • cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol ® C2M Concentrate.
  • - Y represents the group -COOH, -COOZ" or -CH 2 -CH(OH)S0 3 H or the group CH 2 CH(OH)S0 3 -Z";
  • - Rd and R e represent, independently of each other, a Ci to C 4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;
  • - Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • Ra" represents a Cio to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra"-COOH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil;
  • n denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants use is preferably made of (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines such as cocobetaine, (C 8 - C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetame, and mixtures thereof, and the compounds of formula (XIV) such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide) .
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetame.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants(s) generally represent from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15%, more preferentially from 2% to 10% by weight, and better still from 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
  • the composition according to the invention does not comprise any cationic surfactant.
  • the composition according to the invention does not comprise any fatty alcohol.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises neither cationic surfactant nor fatty alcohol.
  • composition according to these two preferred embodiments has the advantage of not "loading" the hair and thus gives the hair lightness, body and a non- greasy natural appearance.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium.
  • the term "cosmetically acceptable medium” is intended to mean a medium that is compatible with the hair and the scalp.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from Ci- C 4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols; and mixtures thereof.
  • Ci- C 4 lower alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol
  • polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols
  • the composition according to the invention has a total water content of between 40% and 95% by weight, preferably between 50% and 90%, preferentially between 60% and 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the compositions according to the invention generally ranges from 3 to 8, preferably from 3.5 to 6 and better still from 4 to 5.5.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more standard additives that are well known in the art, such as natural or synthetic thickeners or viscosity regulators different from the cationic polymers described above; ceramides; silicones; fatty esters such as isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl stearate; mineral, plant or synthetic oils such as a-olefms or avocado oil, rapeseed oil, apricot oil, camelina oil or liquid petroleum jelly; vitamins or provitamins; amphoteric or anionic polymers; pH stabilizers, preservatives; dyes; fragrances.
  • standard additives that are well known in the art, such as natural or synthetic thickeners or viscosity regulators different from the cationic polymers described above; ceramides; silicones; fatty esters such as isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl
  • additives are generally present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention is transparent or translucent, that is to say that this composition exhibits a transmittance at 600 nm of greater than 85%, better still greater than 90% and even better still greater than 94%.
  • composition according to the invention can be characterized on the basis of the measurement of its transmittance using a spectrophotometer, Cary 100 model, from the company Varian, at ambient temperature (25°C), at a wavelength of 700 nm.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, using said composition.
  • This process consists in applying the composition according to the invention to dry or wet keratin fibres, that have optionally been washed with a shampoo.
  • the composition according to the invention is applied to wet keratin fibres.
  • the keratin fibres are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo and then rinsed with water, before being dried or left to dry.
  • composition according to the present invention is generally applied with a leave-on time that may range from 1 to 15 minutes, preferably from 2 to 10 minutes.
  • composition according to the invention can be used before a shampoo (like a pre-shampoo) or as a care product, preferably to be rinsed off after a shampoo (like a conditioner).
  • the present invention relates to the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, in particular for conditioning keratin fibres, or conferring cosmetic care on the keratin fibres, such as disentangling, that is persistent with respect to shampooing operations.
  • Composition A according to the invention is prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed by weight of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition that can be used as a conditioner is obtained.
  • composition according to the invention is compared with a commercial conditioner B, not comprising any silane.
  • composition A or comparative composition B in a proportion of 0.4 g per gram of lock of hair
  • composition A or B and rinsing as described above, then after 1 , 3 and 5 washes with the DOP shampoo and rinsing (possible evaluations: very good, good, medium, poor, very poor).
  • Composition A according to the invention makes it possible to have as good a level of disentangling at the first application as comparative composition B (commercial rinse-off conditioner).
  • Example 2 Composition C according to the invention and comparative composition D are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition. Ingredients C (Inv) D (Comp)
  • the locks of hair are treated with compositions C and D according to the protocol described previously. Tests for ease of combing on wet hair were carried out using a Lloyd LR5K compression tension testing machine.
  • the lock is attached at its end, on the root side, and is free on the tip side. At constant speed, the force exerted that enables a fine comb to pass through wet hair is measured: the easier the hair is to comb, the lower the force.
  • composition C according to the invention exhibits significantly lower combing forces compared with comparative composition D: the combing is significantly easier.
  • composition C according to the invention are persistent up to 8 shampooing operations, contrary to comparative composition D.
  • composition formulations E and F according to the invention and comparative composition G are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition E to G in a proportion of 0.4 g per gram of lock of hair
  • the polyquaternium-6 deposit is determined by gel electrophoresis after acid dissolution of the hair. Two measurements are carried out each time.
  • This table indicates the mean cationic polymer contents of the locks of hair (expressed in ⁇ g/g of hair) and the standard deviations of these measurements.
  • compositions E and F according to the invention make it possible to deposit a larger amount of cationic polymer at TO compared with comparative composition G.
  • compositions E and F according to the invention make it possible to deposit cationic polymers at the surface of the hair, said deposit being persistent with respect to at least 5 shampooing operations.
  • the hair treated with comparative composition G no longer comprises a sufficient amount of cationic polymers at its surface even after only 3 shampooing operations.
  • this persistent deposit, in particular of cationic polymers guarantees the care properties such as disentangling of the hair treated with the compositions according to the invention.
  • Comparative composition H based on the composition of the example of document FR 2 954 100 and compositions I and J according to the invention are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed by weight of active material (am) or by weight of starting materials (sm) relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the hair is rinsed with water at 35°C (flow rate 300 1/h) for 10 seconds (15 passes between the fingers), then wiped dry (2 passes between the fingers).
  • the "disentangling" performance level was evaluated during the disentangling of the locks, on wet hair. A grade was assigned to each lock, on a scale ranging from 0 (very poor) to 5 (very good):
  • the comb is made to slide through the hair from the root to the tip (beginning with the comb on the small tooth side, then on the large tooth side according to the degree of difficulty).
  • compositions I and J according to the invention give the locks better disentangling performance levels compared with composition H according to the prior art.
  • the suppleness evaluation is tactile.
  • the locks are taken in both hands and it is sought to fold them.
  • An evaluation is made of their ability to easily curve, their malleability.
  • the coating evaluation is tactile.
  • the locks are taken in both hands, then starting from the root and sliding down to the tips, the presence of deposit on the fibre is evaluated.
  • compositions I and J according to the invention made it possible to improve conditioning properties (suppleness, coating and disentangling) compared with the prior art: the fibres are more supple, easier to disentangle and provide a better coating.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more organosilanes, one or more cationic polymers and a particular combination of surfactants comprising anionic, non-ionic and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, using said composition. Finally, the present invention relates to the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, for conditioning keratin fibres, or conferring cosmetic care on the keratin fibres, such as disentangling, that is persistent with respect to shampooing operations.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising an organosilane, at least one cationic polymer and a particular combination of surfactants
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more organosilanes, one or more cationic polymers and a particular combination of surfactants comprising anionic, non- ionic and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres using said composition.
Finally, the present invention relates to the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, in particular for conferring cosmetic care on the keratin fibres, such as disentangling, which is persistent with respect to shampooing operations.
Hair is generally damaged and embrittled by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and bad weather, and/or by mechanical or chemical treatments, such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, permanent- waving and/or relaxing.
Thus, in order to remedy these drawbacks, it is now common practice to pursue haircare treatments involving the use of care compositions that make it possible to condition the hair after these treatments to give it in particular sheen, softness, suppleness, lightness, a natural feel and disentangling properties.
These haircare compositions may be, for example, conditioning shampoos or compositions to be applied before or after washing with shampoo, and may be in the form of gels, hair lotions or creams of varying thickness.
It is known, in order to improve the cosmetic properties of these compositions, to introduce therein cosmetic agents, known as conditioning agents, intended mainly to repair or to limit the harmful or undesirable effects brought about by the various treatments or attacks to which hair fibres are more or less repeatedly subjected. With this goal, using organosilicon compounds (or organosilanes) in cosmetic care compositions, among others, to give hair satisfactory conditioning properties, in particular disentangling properties, has already been proposed.
Such compositions are for example described in patent applications FR 2 954 100 and FR 3 029 110.
However, the care compositions described in the prior art secure conditioning and disentangling properties that do not last sufficiently long. Specifically, these properties generally do not sufficiently resist washing and tend to rapidly diminish. The effect of persistence of the conditioning and disentangling properties is generally limited to three shampooing operations.
Thus, there is a real need to make available a cosmetic care composition for keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, which do not have the drawbacks mentioned above, i.e. which are especially capable of affording conditioning properties that are not only satisfactory but also persistent on washing, for example persistent after at least five shampooing operations.
The applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that a composition comprising one or more organosilanes, one or more cationic polymers and a particular combination of surfactants comprising anionic, non-ionic and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants makes it possible to respond to the technical problems set out above.
Therefore the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
(i) one or more organosilanes,
(ii) one or more cationic polymers,
(iii) one or more anionic surfactants,
(iv) one or more non-ionic surfactants, and
(v) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants,
the weight ratio of the total amount of anionic surfactant(s) to the total amount of non- ionic surfactant(s) being less than or equal to 5.
The composition according to the invention secures a particularly satisfactory coating for hair, and in particular gives it softness, suppleness, smoothness, lightness, volume, and a natural non-greasy, lightweight feel. This composition also provides hair with improved disentangling ability. Moreover, the properties afforded by the composition according to the invention, and in particular the disentangling properties, satisfactorily withstand the various attacks to which the hair may be subjected, such as light, bad weather, washing and perspiration. They are particularly persistent with respect to shampooing operations, especially after at least five shampooing operations.
Furthermore, the composition according to the invention has good stability, especially over time.
A subject of the present invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, using said composition.
Finally, another subject of the present invention is the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, in particular for conditioning keratin fibres, or conferring cosmetic care on the keratin fibres, such as disentangling, that is persistent with respect to shampooing operations.
Other subjects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.
In the text hereinbelow, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included within that range, especially in the expressions "between" and "ranging from ... to
Moreover, the expressions "at least one" and "at least" used in the present description are equivalent to the expressions "one or more" and "greater than or equal to", respectively.
The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more organosilanes.
The organosilane(s) that can be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from the compounds of formula (I) and/or hydrolysis products thereof and/or oligomers thereof:
RiSi(OR2)z(R3)x(OH)y (I) in which
- Ri is a cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci to C22, in particular C2 to C2o, hydrocarbon-based chain, which may be substituted with one or more group(s) chosen from amine groups NH2 or NHR, R being a linear or branched Ci to C20, in particular Ci to C6, alkyl, or a C3 to C40 cycloalkyl or a C6 to C30 aromatic radical; the hydroxyl group; a thiol group; an aryl group, more particularly benzyl, which is unsubstituted or substituted with an NH2 or NHR group; it being possible for Ri to be interrupted with an oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen heteroatom or a carbonyl group;
- R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
- y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3,
- z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and
- x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2,
- with z + x + y = 3.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "oligomer" is intended to mean the polymerization products of the compounds of formula (I) comprising from 2 to 10 silicon atoms.
Preferably, Ri is a linear or branched, more preferentially linear, saturated Ci to C22, in particular C2 to C12, hydrocarbon-based chain, which may be substituted with one or more amine group(s) NH2 or NHR, R being a Ci to C20, in particular Ci to C6, alkyl.
Preferably, R2 represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferentially a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and in particular an ethyl group.
Preferably, z ranges from 1 to 3.
Preferably, y is equal to 0.
Preferentially, z is equal to 3.
Even more preferentially, x and y are equal to 0 and z is equal to 0.
In one embodiment of the invention, the organosilane(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) in which Ri represents a linear alkyl group comprising from 7 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 7 to 12 carbon atoms, or a Ci to C6, preferably C2 to C4, aminoalkyl group.
Particularly preferably, in this embodiment, Ri represents an octyl group.
In another embodiment of the invention, the organosilane(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) in which Ri is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci to C22 hydrocarbon-based chain, substituted with one or more amine group(s) NH2 or NHR, R being a linear or branched Ci to C20, preferably Ci to C6, alkyl, or a C3 to C40 cycloalkyl or a C6 to C30 aromatic.
Particularly preferably, in this other embodiment, Ri represents a d to C6, more preferentially C2 to C4, aminoalkyl group.
Preferably, the organosilane(s) that can be used according to the invention are chosen from octyltriethoxysilane (OTES), dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltriethoxysilane, hexadecyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 2-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3- aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3-(m-aminophenoxy)propyltrimethoxysilane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, N-(2- aminoethylaminomethyl)phenethyltrimethoxysilane, hydrolysis products thereof, oligomers thereof and mixtures thereof; and more particularly the organosilane(s) are chosen from octyltriethoxysilane (OTES) and 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), hydrolysis products thereof, oligomers thereof and mixtures thereof.
Particularly preferably, the organosilane is 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane
(APTES).
The organosilanes used in the composition of the invention, especially those comprising a basic function, may be partially or totally neutralized in order to improve the water solubility thereof. In particular, the neutralizer may be chosen from organic or mineral acids, such as citric acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid or hydrochloric acid.
Preferably, the optionally neutralized organosilane(s) that can be used according to the invention are water-soluble and especially soluble at a concentration of 2% by weight, better still at a concentration of 5% by weight and even better still at a concentration of 10% by weight in water at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1 atm). The term "soluble" indicates the formation of a single macroscopic phase.
The organosilane(s) generally represent from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
As indicated previously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises one or more cationic polymers (ii). For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" denotes any polymer containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized to give cationic groups.
The cationic polymer(s) (ii) present in the composition according to the invention may be chosen from any of those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of the hair, i.e. especially those described in patent application EP-A-337 354 and in French patents FR-2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611 , 2 470 596 and 2 519 863.
The cationic polymer(s) (ii) used generally have a number-average molecular weight of between 500 and 5x 106 g/mol approximately and preferably between 103 and 3x 106 g/mol approximately.
Among the cationic polymers, mention may more particularly be made of polymers of the type such as polyamine, polyaminoamide and polyquaternary ammonium.
These are known products. They are especially described in French patents no. 2 505 348 and 2 542 997.
The cationic polymers (ii) used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be chosen from:
(1) Homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of formula (II), (III), (IV) or (V) below:
Figure imgf000007_0001
(HI)
Figure imgf000008_0001
in which:
R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;
A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
R4, R-5 and Re, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably a methyl or ethyl radical;
X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
Mention may be made in particular of the ethyltrimethylammonium methacrylate chloride homopolymer.
The polymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen with lower (Ci-C4) alkyls, acrylic or methacrylic acids or esters thereof, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcapro lactam, and vinyl esters.
Thus, among these polymers of family (1), mention may be made of:
- copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethyl-aminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as the product sold under the name Hercofloc by the company Hercules, the copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxy-ethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in patent application EP-A-080 976 and sold under the name Bina Quat P 100 by the company Ciba Geigy,
- the copolymer of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate sold under the name Reten by the company Hercules,
- quaternized or non-quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, such as the products sold under the name Gafquat by the company ISP, such as, for example, Gafquat 734 or Gafquat 755, or alternatively the products known as Copolymer 845, 958 and 937. These polymers are described in detail in French patents 2 077 143 and 2 393 573,
dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name Gaffix VC 713 by the company ISP,
- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers sold in particular under the name Styleze CC 10 by ISP,
quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name Gafquat HS 100 by the company ISP, and
- the crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxy(Ci-C4)alkyl tri(Ci- C4)alkylammonium salts, such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefmically unsaturated compound, more particularly methylenebisacrylamide. Use may more particularly be made of a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare® SC 92 by the company Ciba. Use may also be made of a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 by the company Ciba. (2) Cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, such as those described in French patent 1 492 597, and in particular polymers sold under the names Ucare Polymer JR (JR 400, JR 125 and JR 30M) or LR (LR 400 or LR 30M) by the company Amerchol. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose that have reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.
(3) Cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble monomer of quaternary ammonium, and described especially in US patent 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted, in particular, with a methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
The commercial products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat L 200 and Celquat H 100 by the company National Starch.
(4) Cationic guar gums, in particular those described more particularly in US patents 3 589 578 and 4 031 307, such as guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. Guar gums modified with a salt (e.g. chloride) of 2,3- epoxypropyltrimethylammonium are used, for example.
Such products are sold in particular under the trade names Jaguar C13 S,
Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 or Jaguar CI 62 by the company Rhodia.
(5) Polymers constituted of piperazinyl units and of divalent alkylene or hydroxy alky lene radicals containing straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers. Such polymers are described, in particular, in French patents 2 162 025 and 2 280 361.
(6) Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis- haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or alternatively with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a difunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, they can be quaternized. Such polymers are especially described in French patents 2 252 840 and 2 368 508.
(7) Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid/dialkylamino hydroxy alky ldialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl radical comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl radicals. Such polymers are in particular described in French patent 1 583 363.
Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylenetriamine polymers sold under the name Cartaretine F, F4 or F8 by the company Sandoz.
(8) Polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, the mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1 and the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 3227615 and 2961347.
Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name Hercosett 57 by the company Hercules Inc. or else under the name PD 170 or Delsette 101 by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid/epoxypropyl/diethylenetriamine copolymer.
(9) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers containing, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (VI) or (VII): (CH2)t-
H2 C H2
H
R / Y
\
Re (VI)
Figure imgf000012_0001
in which formulae:
k and t are equal to 0 or 1 , the sum k + 1 being equal to 1 ;
R9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
R7 and Rs, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a (C1-C4) lower amidoalkyl group; or R7 and Rs may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; R7 and Rs, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
Y" is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate or phosphate. These polymers are in particular described in French patent 2 080 759 and in its Certificate of Addition 2 190 406.
Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularly of the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer sold under the name Merquat 100 by the company Nalco (and its homologues of low weight- average molecular weight) and the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide, sold under the names Merquat 550 and Merquat 7SPR.
(10) Quaternary diammonium polymers containing repeating units corresponding to formula (VIII) below: R 10 R 1 2
— N+ - A. N+- B.
R 11 R 1 3 (VIII)
in which:
Rio, Rii, Ri2 and Ri3, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or alternatively Rio, Rii, R12 and R13, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively Rio, R11 , R12 and R13 represent a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group -CO-O-R14-D or -CO- NH-R14-D where R14 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
Ai and Bi represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
X" denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
Ai, Rio and R12 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; in addition, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi can also denote a group - (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)n- in which D denotes:
a) a glycol residue of formula: -O-Z-O-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae:
-(CH2-CH2-0)X-CH2-CH2- -[CH2-CH(CH3)-0]y-CH2-CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative;
c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or else the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2- ;
d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-.
Preferably, X" is an anion, such as chloride or bromide.
These polymers have a number-average molecular weight generally between 1000 and 100 000.
Polymers of this type are especially described in French patents 2 320 330, 2 270 846, 2 316 271, 2 336 434 and 2 413 907 and US patents 2 273 780, 2 375 853,
2 388 614, 2 454 547, 3 206 462, 2 261 002, 2 271 378, 3 874 870, 4 001 432,
3 929 990, 3 966 904, 4 005 193, 4 025 617, 4 025 627, 4 025 653, 4 026 945 and
4 027 020.
It is more particularly possible to use polymers that are constituted of repeating units corresponding to the following formula (IX):
Figure imgf000014_0001
in which Rio, R11, R12 and R13, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to 8 approximately, and X" is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid. Mention may be made in particular of Mexomere PO sold by the company Chimex.
(11) Polyquaternary ammoniums constituted of repeating units of formula
(X):
X
CH, X
i + l +
-N - (CH2) -NH-CO-D-NH- (CH2) N - (CH2)2 - 0 - (CH2)2
I 2'P I
CH, CH,
(X) in which p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 6 approximately, D may be zero or may represent a group (CH2)r-CO- in which r denotes a number equal to 4 or 7, and X" is an anion.
Such polymers may be prepared according to the processes described in US patents 4 157 388, 4 702 906 and 4 719 282. They are especially described in patent application EP-A-122 324.
Among these polymers, examples that may be mentioned include the products Mirapol A 15, Mirapol AD1, Mirapol AZ1 and Mirapol 175 sold by the company Miranol.
(12) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole, for instance the products sold under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF. These polymers may also comprise other monomers, for instance diallyldialkylammonium halides. Mention may be made in particular of the product sold under the name Luviquat Sensation by the company BASF.
(13) Cationic polyamines such as Polyquart H sold by Henkel, which is referenced under the name Polyethylene glycol (15) Tallow Polyamine in the CTFA dictionary, or oxyethylenated (15 OE) coconut polyamines.
Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, polyquaternary ureylenes and chitin derivatives.
Among all the cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use the polymers of families (1), (2), (3), (4), (9), (10) and (12), more particularly the polymers of families (2) and (9), and better still the polymers of family (9).
Even more preferentially, the cationic polymer(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are chosen from dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymers and copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide, and even more preferentially the cationic polymer is the dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymer (polyquaternium-6).
The cationic polymer(s) generally represent from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight, and even better still from 0.3%> to 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention. Preferably, the weight ratio in the cosmetic composition according to the invention between the organosilane(s) and the cationic polymer(s) ranges from 0.1 to 20, more preferentially from 0.5 to 15.
As indicated previously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises one or more anionic surfactants.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anionic surfactant" is intended to mean a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups C02H, CO2", SO3H, SO3-, OSO3H, OSO3-, H2PO3, HPO3-, PO32", H2PO2, HPO2", PO22", POH and PO\
Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from anionic surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate and/or phosphate and/or carboxylate groups, and/or mixtures thereof, preferably the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate and/or phosphate groups, alkyl ether carboxylic anionic surfactants, and/or mixtures thereof.
Preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more alkyl ether carboxylic anionic surfactants.
In one variant of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of anionic surfactants and especially one or more anionic surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate and/or phosphate groups and one or more alkyl ether carboxylic anionic surfactants.
The anionic surfactant(s) comprising in their structure one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate and/or phosphate groups may be oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated. The total average number of ethylene oxide (EO) and/or propylene oxide (PO) groups may then range from 1 to 50 and especially from 2 to 10.
The anionic surfactant(s) comprising in their structure one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate and/or phosphate groups may be chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkylamido sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl ether sulfates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, acyl isethionates and methyl acyl taurates, olefin sulfonates, and salts thereof; the alkyl or acyl group of all these various compounds preferably containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group. Among the anionic surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate and/or phosphate groups, it is preferred to use one or more anionic sulfated surfactants, preferentially chosen from Cs-Ci4 and more particularly C12-C14 alkyl ether sulfates, and/or one or more sulfonate anionic surfactants chosen from olefin sulfonates.
Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) comprising in their structure one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate and/or phosphate groups are in the form of salts, and in particular of alkaline salts, especially sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, including amino alcohol salts, and/or magnesium salts. These salts preferably comprise from 2 to 5 ethylene oxide groups.
Among these salts, sodium, triethanolamine, magnesium or ammonium (C12- Ci4)alkyl sulfates and/or sodium, ammonium or magnesium (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl ether sulfates, which are oxyethylenated, for example with 1 or 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide, or sodium olefin sulfonates, are more preferably used.
Better still, the surfactant(s) comprising in their structure one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate and/or phosphate groups are chosen from sodium, ammonium or magnesium (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl ether sulfates oxyethylenated with 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide, as sold under the name Texapon N702 by the company Cognis.
Among the anionic surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate and/or phosphate groups, it is preferred to use sodium or ammonium lauryl ether sulfates or sodium olefin sulfonates.
The alkyl ether carboxylic anionic surfactant(s) that may be used according to the invention preferably comprise a C6-C24 alkyl chain.
The alkyl ether carboxylic anionic surfactant(s) may be chosen, alone or as a mixture or mixtures, from:
- (C6-C24)alkyl ether carboxylic acids,
- (C6-C24)alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids,
- (C6-C24)alkylamido ether carboxylic acids,
- and salts thereof.
The alkyl ether carboxylic anionic surfactant(s) may be oxyalkylenated, preferably oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated. The total average number of alkylene oxide groups then preferably ranges from 2 to 50, in particular from 2 to 24 and better still from 2 to 15. When the alkyl ether carboxylic anionic surfactant(s) are oxyalkylenated, they preferably comprise from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups and in particular from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide (EO) groups.
Preferably, the alkyl ether carboxylic anionic surfactant(s) are neutralized with one or more salts. The salts are chosen in particular from alkaline salts and especially sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, including amino alcohol salts such as triethanolamine or monoethanolamine salts, and magnesium salts.
The polyethoxylated carboxylic anionic surfactants more preferably used are those corresponding to formula (XI) below:
Ri (OC2H4)nOCH2COOA (XI) in which:
Ri represents a linear or branched Cs-C22 alkyl or alkenyl group or a mixture of groups, a (Cs-C^alkylphenyl group, a group R2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2 denoting a linear or branched Cn-C21 alkyl or alkenyl group,
n is an integer or decimal number (average value) that may range from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 15,
A denotes H, NH4, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue. Mixtures of compounds of formula (XI) may also be used, in particular mixtures in which the groups Ri are different.
Preferably, Ri denotes a group or a mixture of groups chosen from C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl and octylphenyl groups; A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom; and n ranges from 2 to 20 and preferably from 2 to 10.
Even more preferentially, use is made of compounds of formula (XI) in which Ri denotes a C12 alkyl group; A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom; and n ranges from 2 to 10.
Among the commercial products that may preferably be used are the products sold by the company KAO under the names:
Akypo® NP 70 (Ri = nonylphenyl, n = 7, A = H)
Akypo® NP 40 (Ri = nonylphenyl, n = 4, A = H)
Akypo® OP 40 (Ri = octylphenyl, n = 4, A = H)
Akypo® OP 80 (Ri = octylphenyl, n = 8, A = H)
Akypo® OP 190 (Ri = octylphenyl, n = 19, A = H) Akypo® RLM 38 (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 4, A = H)
Akypo® RLM 38 NV (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 4, A = Na)
Akypo® RLM 45 CA (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 4.5, A = H)
Akypo® RLM 45 NV (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 4.5, A = Na)
Akypo® RLM 100 (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 10, A = H)
Akypo® RLM 100 NV (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 10, A = Na)
Akypo® RLM 130 (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 13, A = H)
Akypo® RLM 160 NV (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 16, A = Na)
or by the company Sandoz under the names:
Sandopan DTC-Acid (Ri = (Ci3)alkyl, n = 6, A = H)
Sandopan DTC (Ri = (Ci3)alkyl, n = 6, A = Na)
Sandopan LS 24 (Ri = (Ci2-Ci4)alkyl, n = 12, A = Na)
Sandopan JA 36 (Ri = (Ci3)alkyl, n = 18, A = H),
and more particularly the products sold under the following names:
Akypo® RLM 45 (INCI: Laureth-5 carboxylic acid)
Akypo® RLM 100
Akypo® RLM 38.
Among the alkyl ether carboxylic anionic surfactants, use is preferably made of lauryl ether carboxylic acids or sodium lauryl ether carboxylates.
Preferably, the anionic surfactants are chosen from sulfated anionic surfactants, chosen especially from Cs-Ci4 alkyl ether sulfates and alkyl ether carboxylic surfactants.
Preferentially, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more alkyl ether carboxylic surfactants corresponding to formula (XI).
In one variant of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of sulfated anionic surfactants, chosen especially from Cs-Ci4 and more particularly Ci2-Ci4 alkyl ether sulfates, and alkyl ether carboxylic surfactants corresponding to formula (XI) as described previously.
The anionic surfactant(s) generally represent from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 18% by weight, more preferentially from 4% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
As indicated previously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants. The non-ionic surfactant(s) present in the composition according to the invention are described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pages 1 16-178.
Examples of non-ionic surfactants that may be mentioned include the following non- ionic surfactants:
- oxyalkylenated (Cs-C24)alkylphenols;
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated C8 to C4o alcohols, preferably comprising one or two fatty chains;
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated Cs to C30 fatty acid amides;
- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cs to C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols;
- preferably oxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cs to C30 acids and of sorbitol;
- esters of fatty acids and of sucrose;
- (C8-C3o)alkyl(poly)glucosides, (C8-C3o)alkenyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylene units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, (C8-C3o)alkyl(poly)glucoside esters;
- saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated plant oils;
- condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide;
N-(C8-C3o)alkylglucamine and N-(C8-C3o)acylmethylglucamine derivatives;
- aldobionamides;
- amine oxides;
- oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated silicones;
- and mixtures thereof.
The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.
The number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges in particular from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 10.
Advantageously, the non-ionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise any oxypropylene units. By way of example of glycerolated non-ionic surfactants, use is preferably made of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated Cs to C40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol, preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol.
Mention may be made, as examples of compounds of this type, of lauryl alcohol comprising 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol comprising 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol comprising 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol comprising 6 mol of glycerol and octadecanol comprising 6 mol of glycerol.
Among the glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the Cs to Cio alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the C10 to C12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C12 alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol.
The non-ionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are preferentially chosen from:
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated Cs to C40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and preferably comprising one or two fatty chains;
- saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated vegetable oils comprising from
1 to 100 and preferably from 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide;
- (C8-C3o)alkyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably with 0 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units;
- monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated Cs to C40 alcohols, comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol and preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol;
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated Cs to C30 fatty acid amides;
- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cs to C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols;
- preferably oxyethylenated esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cs to C30 acids and of sorbitol;
- and mixtures thereof.
More preferentially, the non-ionic surfactant(s) used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from: - saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated Cs to C40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains;
- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cs to C30 acids and of sorbitol, which are preferably oxyethylenated; even more preferentially, the non- ionic surfactant(s) are chosen from:
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated Cs to C40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains.
Even more preferentially, the non-ionic surfactants are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated Cs to C40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol, or even from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising at least one C8-C20 and especially Cio-Cis alkyl chain; especially lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-4) and lauryl alcohol containing 12 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-12), and esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cs to C30 acids and of sorbitol, which are preferably oxyethylenated.
Even better still, the non-ionic surfactant(s) are chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated Cs to C40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 mol, or even from 3 to 20 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising at least one C8-C20 and especially Cio-Cis alkyl chain; especially lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-4) and lauryl alcohol containing 12 mol of ethylene oxide (INCI name: Laureth-12).
Preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) generally represent from 2% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 4% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
As indicated previously, the weight ratio of the total amount of anionic surfactant(s) to the total amount of non- ionic surfactant(s) is less than or equal to 5. Preferably, this weight ratio ranges from 0.1 to 5, more preferentially from 0.2 to 4.5, even more preferentially from 0.3 to 4, better still from 0.35 to 3 and even better still from 0.4 to 2.5.
As indicated previously, the cosmetic composition according to the invention also comprises one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
In particular, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), which are preferably non-silicone, used in the composition according to the present invention may especially be derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines which are optionally quaternized, in which derivatives the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
Mention may in particular be made of (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8- C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and (C8- C2o)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylsulfobetaines.
Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines which are optionally quaternized that may be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of respective structures (XII) and (XIII) below: Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N+(Rb)(Rc)-CH2COO-, M+ , X" (XII) in which formula:
- Ra represents a Cio to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH preferably present in hydro lysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
- Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; and
- Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;
- M+ represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and
- X" represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C4)alkyl sulfates, (Ci- C4)alkyl- or (Ci-C4)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M+ and X" are absent; Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N(B)(B') (XIII) in which formula:
- B represents the group -CH2CH2OX';
- B' represents the group -(0¼)ζΥ', with z = 1 or 2;
- X* represents the group -CH2COOH, -CH2-COOZ',
-CH2CH2COOH, CH2CH2-COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;
- Y' represents the group -COOH, -COOZ' or
-CH2CH(OH)S03H or the group CH2CH(OH)S03-Z';
- Z' represents a cationic counterion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine;
- Ra' represents a C10 to C3o alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'-COOH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, or an alkyl group, especially a C17 group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.
These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.
By way of example, mention may be made of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol® C2M Concentrate.
Use may also be made of the compounds of formula (XIV):
Ra»- HCH(Y")-(CH2)nCO H(CH2)n'-N(Rd)(Re) (XIV) in which formula:
- Y" represents the group -COOH, -COOZ" or -CH2-CH(OH)S03H or the group CH2CH(OH)S03-Z";
- Rd and Re represent, independently of each other, a Ci to C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical; - Z" represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
- Ra" represents a Cio to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra"-COOH which is preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil;
- n and n' denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
Mention may be made, among the compounds of formula (XII), of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and sold by the company Chimex under the name Chimexane HB.
These compounds may be used alone or as mixtures.
Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of (C8-C2o)alkylbetaines such as cocobetaine, (C8- C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetame, and mixtures thereof, and the compounds of formula (XIV) such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide) .
Preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetame.
The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants(s) generally represent from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15%, more preferentially from 2% to 10% by weight, and better still from 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
According to a first preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any cationic surfactant.
According to a second preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention does not comprise any fatty alcohol.
Particularly preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises neither cationic surfactant nor fatty alcohol.
The composition according to these two preferred embodiments has the advantage of not "loading" the hair and thus gives the hair lightness, body and a non- greasy natural appearance. As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "cosmetically acceptable medium" is intended to mean a medium that is compatible with the hair and the scalp.
Thus, the composition according to the invention may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents chosen from Ci- C4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol and polyethylene glycols; and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention has a total water content of between 40% and 95% by weight, preferably between 50% and 90%, preferentially between 60% and 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The pH of the compositions according to the invention generally ranges from 3 to 8, preferably from 3.5 to 6 and better still from 4 to 5.5.
The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more standard additives that are well known in the art, such as natural or synthetic thickeners or viscosity regulators different from the cationic polymers described above; ceramides; silicones; fatty esters such as isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, cetyl palmitate and stearyl stearate; mineral, plant or synthetic oils such as a-olefms or avocado oil, rapeseed oil, apricot oil, camelina oil or liquid petroleum jelly; vitamins or provitamins; amphoteric or anionic polymers; pH stabilizers, preservatives; dyes; fragrances.
Those skilled in the art will take care to select the optional additives and the amount thereof such that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.
These additives are generally present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the cosmetic composition of the invention is transparent or translucent, that is to say that this composition exhibits a transmittance at 600 nm of greater than 85%, better still greater than 90% and even better still greater than 94%.
In particular, the composition according to the invention can be characterized on the basis of the measurement of its transmittance using a spectrophotometer, Cary 100 model, from the company Varian, at ambient temperature (25°C), at a wavelength of 700 nm.
The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, using said composition.
This process consists in applying the composition according to the invention to dry or wet keratin fibres, that have optionally been washed with a shampoo.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention is applied to wet keratin fibres.
After an optional leave-on time, the keratin fibres are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo and then rinsed with water, before being dried or left to dry.
The composition according to the present invention is generally applied with a leave-on time that may range from 1 to 15 minutes, preferably from 2 to 10 minutes.
Thus, the composition according to the invention can be used before a shampoo (like a pre-shampoo) or as a care product, preferably to be rinsed off after a shampoo (like a conditioner).
Finally, the present invention relates to the use of said composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, in particular for conditioning keratin fibres, or conferring cosmetic care on the keratin fibres, such as disentangling, that is persistent with respect to shampooing operations.
The examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
Example 1
Composition A according to the invention is prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed by weight of active material (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition.
Figure imgf000028_0001
A composition that can be used as a conditioner is obtained.
This composition according to the invention is compared with a commercial conditioner B, not comprising any silane.
Protocol for application to locks of hair
- Washing of the locks with a DOP shampoo in a proportion of 0.4 g per gram of lock of hair,
- Rinsing with water,
- Application of composition A or comparative composition B in a proportion of 0.4 g per gram of lock of hair,
- Leave-on time of 5 min,
- Rinsing with water, -Evaluation of the locks of wet hair.
The performance levels in terms of disentangling are evaluated at TO after application of composition A or B and rinsing as described above, then after 1 , 3 and 5 washes with the DOP shampoo and rinsing (possible evaluations: very good, good, medium, poor, very poor).
Results
Figure imgf000029_0001
Composition A according to the invention makes it possible to have as good a level of disentangling at the first application as comparative composition B (commercial rinse-off conditioner).
However, the disentangling is persistent after 5 shampooing operations for composition A contrary to comparative composition B.
Example 2 Composition C according to the invention and comparative composition D are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition. Ingredients C (Inv) D (Comp)
Laureth-5 carboxylic acid 6.3
Cocamidopropyl betaine 3.8
Laureth-4 5
Polysorbate 20 5
3 - Aminopropy ltriethoxy silane 5 5
Polyquaternium-6 2.4 0.48
NaCl 1.2 -
Lactic acid - 1.8
Amodimethicone - 1.5
Cetrimonium chloride - 0.65
Behentrimonium chloride - 0.47
Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium
- 0.3 methosulfate
Cetearyl alcohol - 0.7
Myristyl alcohol - 0.4
Cetyl alcohol - 8
Isopropyl alcohol - 0.1
Mixture of myristyl stearate and myristyl
- 1 palmitate
Trideceth-6 - 0.13
Hydroxyethylcellulose - 0.25
pH agents qs pH 5 qs pH 5
Preservatives qs qs
Water qs 100 qs 100
The locks of hair are treated with compositions C and D according to the protocol described previously. Tests for ease of combing on wet hair were carried out using a Lloyd LR5K compression tension testing machine. The lock is attached at its end, on the root side, and is free on the tip side. At constant speed, the force exerted that enables a fine comb to pass through wet hair is measured: the easier the hair is to comb, the lower the force.
These measurements are carried out at TO and then after 2, 4 and 8 shampooing operations as described previously.
The measurements are carried out on 6 locks each time. Indicated below are the means of the forces (work W) measured (in arbitrary units).
Figure imgf000031_0001
Composition C according to the invention exhibits significantly lower combing forces compared with comparative composition D: the combing is significantly easier.
Furthermore, the performance levels with regard to ease of combing of composition C according to the invention are persistent up to 8 shampooing operations, contrary to comparative composition D.
Example 3
Composition formulation Compositions E and F according to the invention and comparative composition G are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.
Figure imgf000032_0001
Application protocol
- Washing of the locks of hair with a DOP shampoo in a proportion of 0.4 g per gram of lock of hair,
- Rinsing with water,
- Application of composition E to G in a proportion of 0.4 g per gram of lock of hair,
- Leave-on time of 5 min,
- Rinsing with water,
- Evaluation of the locks of wet hair. The polyquaternium-6 deposit on the locks of hair is measured.
The polyquaternium-6 deposit is determined by gel electrophoresis after acid dissolution of the hair. Two measurements are carried out each time.
Results
This table indicates the mean cationic polymer contents of the locks of hair (expressed in μg/g of hair) and the standard deviations of these measurements.
Figure imgf000033_0001
"< LQ" indicates that the amounts of cationic polymers are too low to be detected (quantifiable limit). Compositions E and F according to the invention make it possible to deposit a larger amount of cationic polymer at TO compared with comparative composition G.
These results also show that compositions E and F according to the invention make it possible to deposit cationic polymers at the surface of the hair, said deposit being persistent with respect to at least 5 shampooing operations. Conversely, the hair treated with comparative composition G no longer comprises a sufficient amount of cationic polymers at its surface even after only 3 shampooing operations. Thus, this persistent deposit, in particular of cationic polymers, guarantees the care properties such as disentangling of the hair treated with the compositions according to the invention.
Example 4
Composition formulation
Comparative composition H based on the composition of the example of document FR 2 954 100 and compositions I and J according to the invention are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed by weight of active material (am) or by weight of starting materials (sm) relative to the total weight of the composition.
Ingredients H (Comp.) I (Inv.) J (Inv.)
Lactic acid 0.27 sm 0.27 sm 0.27 sm
Chloro-5 -methyl-2-isothiazo lin-4- one-3 /methylisothiazolin-4-one-3/ 0.1 sm 0.1 sm 0.1 sm magnesium chloride and nitrate
Hydroxyethylcellulose quaternized
with 2,3-
0.57 am 0.57 am 0.57 am epoxypropyltrimethylammonium
chloride
Polydimethylsiloxane containing
aminoethyl aminoisobutyl and 1 sm 1 sm 1 sm
trimethylsiloxy groups
3 - Aminopropy ltriethoxy silane 0.75 sm 0.75 sm 0.75 sm
Cocoylbetaine 5.1 am 5.1 am 5.1 am
Lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5 OE) 0.9 am 0.9 am 0.9 am
Sodium lauryl ether sulfate (2.2 OE) 11.2 am 6.03 am 2.18 am
PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate 0.24 am 0.24 am 0.24 am Oxyethylenated (20 OE) and
oxypropylenated (5 OP) cetyl alcohol
0.5 sm 0.5 sm 0.5 sm - Procetyl AWS-LQ by the company
Croda
Coconut acid monoisopropanolamide
0.8 am 0.8 am 0.8 am - Cocamide MIPA
pH regulator qs pH = 9 qs pH = 9 qs pH = 9
Fragrance 0.5 sm 0.5 sm 0.5 sm
Deionized water qs 100 g qs 100 g qs 100 g
Total content of anionic surfactants 12.1 6.93 3.08
Total content of non-ionic surfactants 1.54 1.54 1.54
Weight ratio anionic surfactants/non-
7.85 4.5 2 ionic surfactants
Application protocol
Compositions H, I or J are applied in a standardized manner to pre-wetted, medium-sensitized (alkaline solubility = 20%, AS 20) locks, by massaging the locks for 15 seconds (6 passes between the fingers) in a proportion of 0.4 g/g of hair. The hair is rinsed with water at 35°C (flow rate 300 1/h) for 10 seconds (15 passes between the fingers), then wiped dry (2 passes between the fingers).
Disentangling results
The "disentangling" performance level was evaluated during the disentangling of the locks, on wet hair. A grade was assigned to each lock, on a scale ranging from 0 (very poor) to 5 (very good):
Figure imgf000035_0001
Figure imgf000036_0001
ery goo
For evaluating the disentangling, the comb is made to slide through the hair from the root to the tip (beginning with the comb on the small tooth side, then on the large tooth side according to the degree of difficulty).
The results obtained are as follows:
Figure imgf000036_0003
Compositions I and J according to the invention give the locks better disentangling performance levels compared with composition H according to the prior art.
Results regarding suppleness and coating
The performance levels in terms of suppleness and coating were evaluated by 5 experts, on wet hair, in a blind test. Each of the 5 experts graded each of the locks on a scale ranging from 0 (very poor) to 5 (very good).
Figure imgf000036_0002
Figure imgf000037_0001
ery goo
The suppleness evaluation is tactile. The locks are taken in both hands and it is sought to fold them. An evaluation is made of their ability to easily curve, their malleability.
The coating evaluation is tactile. The locks are taken in both hands, then starting from the root and sliding down to the tips, the presence of deposit on the fibre is evaluated.
The results obtained are as follows:
Suppleness
H (Comp.) I (Inv.) J (Inv.)
2 3 4
2.5 3 4
2.5 3 4
2 3 4
2 3 4
Mean
2.2 3 4
Standard deviation
0.27 0.00 0.00 Coating
H (Comp.) I (Inv.) J (Inv.)
1 2 3
1.5 2.5 3.5
1 2.5 3
1.5 2 3.5
1.25 2.25 3.25
Mean
1.25 2.25 3.25
Standard deviation
0.25 0.25 0.25
100% of the experts judged that the fibres treated with the compositions (I and J) according to the invention were more supple than those treated with the composition (H) according to the prior art.
Furthermore, 100% of the experts judged that the locks treated with the compositions (I and J) had a better coating than with the composition (H) according to the prior art.
These differences are significant from the viewpoint of the standard deviations.
Compositions I and J according to the invention made it possible to improve conditioning properties (suppleness, coating and disentangling) compared with the prior art: the fibres are more supple, easier to disentangle and provide a better coating.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition for the treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
(i) one or more organosilanes,
(ii) one or more cationic polymers,
(iii) one or more anionic surfactants,
(iv) one or more non-ionic surfactants, and
(v) one or more amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants,
the weight ratio of the total amount of anionic surfactant(s) to the total amount of non- ionic surfactant(s) being less than or equal to 5.
2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the organosilane(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) and/or hydrolysis products thereof and/or oligomers thereof:
RiSi(OR2)z(R3)x(OH)y (I) in which
- Ri is a cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci to C22, in particular C2 to C2o, hydrocarbon-based chain, which may be substituted with one or more group(s) chosen from amine groups NH2 or NHR, R being a linear or branched Ci to C2o, in particular Ci to C6, alkyl, or a C3 to C4o cycloalkyl or a C6 to C3o aromatic radical; the hydroxyl group; a thiol group; an aryl group, more particularly benzyl, which is unsubstituted or substituted with an NH2 or NHR group; it being possible for Ri to be interrupted with an oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen heteroatom or a carbonyl group;
- R2 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
- y denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3,
- z denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 3, and
- x denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 2,
- with z + x + y = 3.
3. Composition according to Claim 2, characterized in that the organosilane(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) in which Ri represents a linear alkyl group comprising from 7 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 7 to 12 carbon atoms or a Ci to C6, preferably C2 to C4, aminoalkyl group, and most preferentially Ri represents an octyl group.
4. Composition according to Claim 2, characterized in that the organosilane(s) are chosen from the compounds of formula (I) in which Ri is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci to C22 hydrocarbon-based chain, substituted with one or more amine group(s) NH2 or NHR, R being a linear or branched Ci to C2o, in particular Ci to C6, alkyl, or a C3 to C40 cycloalkyl or a C6 to C30 aromatic, and preferably Ri represents a Ci to C6, more preferentially C2 to C4, aminoalkyl group.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organosilane(s) are chosen from octyltriethoxysilane (OTES), dodecyltriethoxysilane, octadecyltriethoxysilane, hexadecyltriethoxysilane, 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), 2-aminoethyltriethoxysilane (AETES), 3- aminopropylmethyldiethoxysilane, N-(2-aminoethyl)-3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane, 3 -(m-aminophenoxy)propyltrimethoxysilane, p-aminophenyltrimethoxysilane, N-(2- aminoethylaminomethyl)phenethyltrimethoxysilane, hydrolysis products thereof, oligomers thereof and mixtures thereof; and preferably the organosilane(s) are chosen from octyltriethoxysilane (OTES) and 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES), hydrolysis products thereof, oligomers thereof and mixtures thereof, and more preferentially the organosilane is 3-aminopropyltriethoxysilane (APTES).
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organosilane(s) represent from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and more preferentially from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from:
(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of formula (II), (III), (IV) or (V) below:
Figure imgf000041_0001
in which:
R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;
A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably of 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
R4, R-5 and Re, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical and preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
Ri and R2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably a methyl or ethyl radical;
X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid, such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide,
(2) cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups,
(3) cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water- soluble quaternary ammonium monomer,
(4) cationic guar gums, (5) polymers constituted of piperazinyl units and of divalent alkylene or hydroxy alky lene radicals containing straight or branched chains, optionally interrupted with oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or with aromatic or heterocyclic rings, and also the oxidation and/or quaternization products of these polymers,
(6) water-soluble polyamino amides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine,
(7) polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents,
(8) polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine containing two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, the mole ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1. and the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a mole ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8:1,
(9) cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium, such as the homopolymers or copolymers containing, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formula (VI) or (VII):
Figure imgf000042_0001
(VII) in which formulae:
k and t are equal to 0 or 1 , the sum k + 1 being equal to 1 ;
R denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;
R7 and Rs, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably contains 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a (C1-C4) lower amidoalkyl group; or R7 and Rs may denote, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups such as piperidyl or morpholinyl; R7 and Rs, independently of each other, preferably denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
Y" is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate,
(10) quaternary diammonium polymers containing repeating units corresponding to formula (VIII) below:
R10 R1 2
- N+ - A - N+- —
I I
Rl 1 X" Rl 3 X" (VIII)
in which:
Rio, R11, R12 and R13, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or alternatively Rio, R11 , R12 and R13, together or separately, constitute, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively Rio, R11 , R12 and R13 represent a linear or branched Ci-C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl or amide group or a group -CO-O-R14-D or -CO- NH-R14-D where R14 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;
Ai and Bi represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and
X" denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;
Ai , Rio and R12 can form, with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, a piperazine ring; in addition, if Ai denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, Bi can also denote a group - (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)n- in which D denotes:
a) a glycol residue of formula: -0-Z-0-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulae:
-(CH2-CH2-0)x-CH2-CH2- - [CH2-CH(CH3)-0]y-CH2-CH(CH3)- where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;
b) a bis-secondary diamine residue, such as a piperazine derivative;
c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical, or else the divalent radical
-CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2- ;
d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-,
(11) polyquaternary ammoniums constituted of repeating units of formula
(X):
CH, X X CH,
i +
-N - (CH2)p-NH-CO-D-NH - (CH2)p - N (CH2), - 0 - (CH2
I
CH, CH,
(X) in which p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 6 approximately, D may be zero or may represent a group (CH2)r-CO- in which r denotes a number equal to 4 or 7, and X" is an anion,
(12) quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole,
(13) cationic polyamines.
8. Composition according to Claim 7, characterized in that the cationic polymer(s) are chosen from the polymers of families (1), (2), (3), (4), (9), (10) and (12), more particularly from the polymers of families (2) and (9), and better still from the polymers of family (9).
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic polymer(s) represent from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 8% by weight, more preferentially from 0.2% to 5% by weight and even better still from 0.3% to 3.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate and/or phosphate and/or carboxylate groups, and/or mixtures thereof, preferably the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate and/or phosphate groups, alkyl ether carboxylic anionic surfactants, and/or mixtures thereof, and more preferentially the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl ether carboxylic anionic surfactants.
11. Composition according to Claim 10, characterized in that the anionic surfactants comprising in their structure one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate and/or phosphate groups are chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkylamido sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl ether sulfates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, acyl isethionates and methyl acyl taurates, olefin sulfonates, and salts thereof; the alkyl or acyl group of all these various compounds preferably containing from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group.
12. Composition according to Claim 10, characterized in that the alkyl ether carboxylic anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from the polyethoxylated carboxylic anionic surfactants of formula (XI):
Ri (OC2H4)nOCH2COOA (XI) in which:
Ri represents a linear or branched Cs-C22 alkyl or alkenyl group or a mixture of groups, a (Cs-C^alkylphenyl group, a group R2CONH-CH2-CH2- with R2 denoting a linear or branched Cn-C21 alkyl or alkenyl group,
n is an integer or decimal number that may range from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 15,
A denotes H, NH4, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anionic surfactant(s) represent from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 18% by weight, more preferentially from 4% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non- ionic surfactant(s) are chosen from:
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated Cs to C4o alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains;
- saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated vegetable oils comprising from 1 to 100 and preferably from 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide;
- (C8-C3o)alkyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, preferably with 0 to 10 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units;
- monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated Cs to C4o alcohols, comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol and preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol;
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated Cs to C30 fatty acid amides;
- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cs to C30 acids and of polyethylene glycols;
- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cs to C30 acids and of sorbitol, which are preferably oxyethylenated,
and mixtures thereof.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-ionic surfactant(s) are chosen from:
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated Cs to C4o alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains;
- esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, Cs to C30 acids and of sorbitol, which are preferably oxyethylenated,
preferably, the non-ionic surfactant(s) are chosen from:
- saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyethylenated Cs to C4o alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains.
16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non- ionic surfactant(s) represent from 2% to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% to 15% by weight, more preferentially from 4% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from (C8- C2o)alkylbetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylsulfobetaines, (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C3- C8)alkylbetaines and (C8-C2o)alkylamido(C6-C8)alkylsulfobetaines.
18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 1% to 15%, more preferentially from 2% to 10% by weight and better still from 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
19. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, using the composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 18.
20. Use of the composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 18, for the cosmetic treatment of keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, in particular for conditioning keratin fibres, or conferring cosmetic care on the keratin fibres, such as disentangling, that is persistent with respect to shampooing operations.
PCT/EP2017/082435 2016-12-16 2017-12-12 Cosmetic composition comprising an organosilane, at least one cationic polymer and a particular combination of surfactants WO2018108919A1 (en)

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WO2020089360A1 (en) * 2018-10-31 2020-05-07 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Composition of active ingredients for caring for and modifiying human hair
WO2021122840A1 (en) * 2019-12-18 2021-06-24 L'oreal Cosmetic composition comprising a cationic associative polymer, a carboxylic anionic surfactant, optionally a nonionic surfactant and an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant
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WO2020089359A1 (en) * 2018-10-31 2020-05-07 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Surfactant-containing cosmetic product combined with bis(triethoxysilylpropyl) amine, for cleaning and care of human hair
WO2020089360A1 (en) * 2018-10-31 2020-05-07 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Composition of active ingredients for caring for and modifiying human hair
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CN112955121A (en) * 2018-10-31 2021-06-11 汉高股份有限及两合公司 Combination of a cosmetic product comprising a surfactant and bis (triethoxysilylpropyl) amine for cleansing and caring for human hair
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FR3104979A1 (en) * 2019-12-18 2021-06-25 L'oreal Cosmetic composition comprising a cationic associative polymer, a carboxylic anionic surfactant, optionally a nonionic surfactant and an amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant
FR3113245A1 (en) * 2020-08-03 2022-02-11 L'oreal Cosmetic composition comprising anionic and amphoteric surfactants, a cationic polymer, at least 2% solid fatty alcohol and a particular amino silicone; and process

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