WO2021096008A1 - Fil élastique composite, tissu extensible et procédé de fabrication de fil élastique composite - Google Patents

Fil élastique composite, tissu extensible et procédé de fabrication de fil élastique composite Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021096008A1
WO2021096008A1 PCT/KR2020/006160 KR2020006160W WO2021096008A1 WO 2021096008 A1 WO2021096008 A1 WO 2021096008A1 KR 2020006160 W KR2020006160 W KR 2020006160W WO 2021096008 A1 WO2021096008 A1 WO 2021096008A1
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Prior art keywords
yarn
core
elastic
composite elastic
filaments
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PCT/KR2020/006160
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English (en)
Korean (ko)
Inventor
김기림
정현기
강연수
김문선
Original Assignee
효성티앤씨 주식회사
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Priority to US17/766,399 priority Critical patent/US20240011200A1/en
Application filed by 효성티앤씨 주식회사 filed Critical 효성티앤씨 주식회사
Priority to CN202080074607.8A priority patent/CN114599829B/zh
Priority to BR112022007993A priority patent/BR112022007993A2/pt
Priority to EP20888510.3A priority patent/EP4060103A4/fr
Publication of WO2021096008A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021096008A1/fr

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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/328—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/324—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic using a drawing frame
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01—NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01D—MECHANICAL METHODS OR APPARATUS IN THE MANUFACTURE OF ARTIFICIAL FILAMENTS, THREADS, FIBRES, BRISTLES OR RIBBONS
    • D01D5/00—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like
    • D01D5/28—Formation of filaments, threads, or the like while mixing different spinning solutions or melts during the spinning operation; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • D01D5/30—Conjugate filaments; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • D01D5/34—Core-skin structure; Spinnerette packs therefor
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
    • D02G1/16—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using jets or streams of turbulent gases, e.g. air, steam
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/36—Cored or coated yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/38—Threads in which fibres, filaments, or yarns are wound with other yarns or filaments, e.g. wrap yarns, i.e. strands of filaments or staple fibres are wrapped by a helically wound binder yarn
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02J—FINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS, ROPES OR THE LIKE
    • D02J1/00—Modifying the structure or properties resulting from a particular structure; Modifying, retaining, or restoring the physical form or cross-sectional shape, e.g. by use of dies or squeeze rollers
    • D02J1/08—Interlacing constituent filaments without breakage thereof, e.g. by use of turbulent air streams
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02J—FINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS, ROPES OR THE LIKE
    • D02J11/00—Combinations, not covered by any one of the preceding groups, of processes provided for in such groups; Plant for carrying-out such combinations of processes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/208—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads cellulose-based
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/233—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads protein-based, e.g. wool or silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/02—Cotton
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/01—Natural vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/04—Linen
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
    • D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
    • D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
    • D10B2201/24—Viscose
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/02—Wool
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2211/00—Protein-based fibres, e.g. animal fibres
    • D10B2211/01—Natural animal fibres, e.g. keratin fibres
    • D10B2211/04—Silk
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2321/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D10B2321/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds polyolefins
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00—Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method of manufacturing a composite elastic yarn, an elastic fabric, and a composite elastic yarn, and more particularly, a puckering in the form of a fabric using a low adhesion elastic yarn having a low adhesion between filaments as a core yarn of the composite elastic yarn. It relates to a composite elastic yarn, an elastic fabric, and a method of manufacturing a composite elastic yarn that solved the problem.
  • spandex is woven into composite elastic yarns used as core yarns.
  • the composite elastic yarn is composed of a core section and a sheath section covering the core section.
  • the core yarn of the composite elastic yarn in the denim fabric is used as a single-core or dual-core elastic yarn to give elasticity to the denim fabric.
  • one elastic yarn is applied as core yarn
  • dual core elastic yarn and two polyester bicomponent fibers are applied as core yarn.
  • U.S. Patent No. 8,093,160 discloses an elastic core yarn comprising a core portion composed of at least one elastic core filament and at least one inelastic core filament, and a sheath portion of short fibers arranged in a manner surrounding the core portion in a longitudinal direction.
  • an elastic denim containing a core yarn Disclosed is an elastic denim containing a core yarn.
  • the stretchable denim obtained by this technique does not provide an appropriate level of stretchability, and there is a limit to the thickness of the yarn that can be used in the sheath portion including short fibers.
  • Composite elastic yarn and its manufacturing method are well known.
  • composite elastic yarns in which the elastic fiber core is covered with inelastic fibers are described in U.S. Patent Nos. 4,470,250 4,998,403, 7,134,265, 6,848,151.
  • the present invention is to solve the problems of the prior art described above, one object of the present invention is by applying an elastic yarn having a low adhesion between filaments to the core portion of the composite elastic yarn, puckering occurring on the surface of the denim fabric. ) To solve the problem.
  • Another object of the present invention is to provide a composite elastic yarn having high elasticity and remarkably improved elastic recovery property of a fabric in which the core yarn is used by forming a core portion of two or more elastic yarns supplied from a single bobbin.
  • Another object of the present invention is to improve the quality of the product and improve the feel of use by solving the problem of perkering occurring in the final product of the stretchable fabric.
  • a composite elastic yarn comprising a core part composed of an elastic core filament and a sheath part composed of short fibers surrounding the core part, wherein the elastic core filament has an adhesive force between the filaments in the range of 9 to 198 mg as measured by ASTM D3822 method. It relates to a composite elastic yarn, characterized in that it has a low adhesion property.
  • the elastic core filament has an inter-filament adhesion of 1.5% to 22% compared to a general-purpose elastic core filament having the same fineness.
  • the core portion may be composed of polyurethane, polyurethane-urea, or a blend of polyurethane and polyurethane-urea, and the sheath portion is wool, linen, silk, polyester, nylon, olefin, cotton, tencel, modal, poly It may be composed of hard yarn selected from the group consisting of viscose (poly-viscose) and combinations thereof.
  • the fineness of the core yarn may be 40 to 120 denier.
  • Another aspect of the present invention includes a composite elastic yarn in which at least one of the warp and weft yarns includes a core portion composed of an elastic core filament and a sheath portion composed of short fibers surrounding the core portion, wherein the elastic core filament is ASTM It relates to a fabric characterized in that it has a low adhesion property in the range of 9 to 198 mg of adhesion between the filaments as measured by the D3822 method.
  • the fabric of the present invention can be used for denim or non-denim.
  • the first interlacing is performed so that the bonding force between the filaments is 500 to 1500 mg, followed by secondary interlacing so that the bonding force between the filaments is 9 to 198 mg.
  • the first interlacing is performed so that the bonding force between the filaments is 500 to 1500 mg, followed by secondary interlacing so that the bonding force between the filaments is 9 to 198 mg.
  • the air flow rate is set to 3 to 4 L/min, and the temperature is set to 35 to 30°C for the first interlacing, and in the second interlacing step, the air flow rate is set to 1 to 2 L/min.
  • Interlacing can be performed by setting the temperature to 15 ⁇ 20°C.
  • the present invention applies the core yarn of the composite elastic yarn as a single elastic yarn, but by using the elastic yarn with low adhesion between the filaments as the core yarn, which occurs on the surface of the denim fabric when a general single-core yarn or dual-core yarn is applied as a core yarn. There is an excellent effect of the present invention in that the perkering problem is solved.
  • the spinning process in which the primary and secondary air entanglement processes are added by the spinning process in which the primary and secondary air entanglement processes are added, the bonding force between the filament strands in the yarn without deterioration and filamentation of the yarn properties of the composite elastic yarn occurs.
  • This low adhesion spandex yarn can be produced.
  • the fabric of the present invention improves the quality of the surface by improving the perkering problem occurring on the fabric surface, thereby providing a user with a comfortable feeling of use.
  • the final product obtained by using the low bonding core yarn of the present invention has high elastic properties, remarkably improved elastic recovery properties, and shape retention properties.
  • FIG. 1 is a schematic diagram of an apparatus for manufacturing a core yarn of a composite elastic yarn according to an embodiment of the present invention.
  • FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of an apparatus for manufacturing a composite elastic yarn according to an embodiment of the present invention.
  • filament means long fiber strands
  • staple fiber means a limited or short length fiber strand
  • elastic core filament refers to a filament having an elongation at break of more than 100%, and a preferred example is a spandex fiber.
  • composite elastic yarn refers to a core-spun yarn made by covering fibers around an elastic core filament.
  • the "bonding force between filaments” means that one filament in the yarn is separated by a length of 1 cm or more, and then the ends of the separated filaments are hung on a bonding force measuring device (Lenzing Instruments GmbH & Co. KG, Vibrodyn 400). Means the value (mg) measured according to ASTM D3822-07 method (Standard test methods for tensile properties of single textile fibers") by stretching at a constant elongation rate. do.
  • the composite elastic yarn of one aspect of the present invention is a composite elastic yarn comprising a core part composed of an elastic core filament and a sheath part composed of short fibers surrounding the core part, wherein the elastic core filament is measured by the ASTM D3822 method. It has a low adhesion property in which the adhesion force is in the range of 9 to 198 mg.
  • the elastic core filament may be a low adhesion elastic core filament having a low adhesion of 1.5% to 22% compared to a general-purpose elastic core filament having the same fineness.
  • the adhesive force between the filaments of the spandex 80D yarn, which is commonly used is at the level of 700 to 900 mg
  • the low adhesion elastic core filament according to the present invention is the sum of about 9 mg to 198 mg of the filaments in the case of 80D. Have a good fit.
  • the bonding force between the filaments of the core yarn is less than 1.5% of the bonding force of the general-purpose spandex of the same fineness, a filamentation phenomenon in which the filaments in the yarn are separated due to excessively low bonding force may occur.
  • the bonding force between the filaments of the core yarn exceeds 22% of the bonding strength of the general-purpose spandex of the same fineness, it is not possible to provide a sufficient surface area to be fused by contact with the cotton yarn, which is the sheath part, during the covering process, so it is manufactured in the form of a fabric. There is a risk of perkering.
  • the core portion may be composed of an elastic core filament composed of polyurethane, polyurethane-urea, or a blend of polyurethane and polyurethane-urea.
  • the sheath portion may be a natural fiber such as cotton, wool, linen, silk, tencel, or modal.
  • the sheath portion may be a single component staple synthetic fiber.
  • the sheath portion may be a fiber selected from the group consisting of polyester, nylon, olefin, poly-viscose, acrylic, modacrylic, rayon, and any combination thereof.
  • the sheath portion preferably includes cotton yarn.
  • the core yarn has a fineness of 40 denier to 120 denier.
  • the fineness of the core yarn is less than 40 denier, a thin denim fabric is formed compared to the general fabric used for denim, and the effect of correcting the body when worn is insignificant and the appearance of the clothing is poor.
  • the fineness of the core yarn exceeds 120 denier, a thick denim fabric is formed compared to a general fabric for denim use, and the feeling of wearing clothes is deteriorated due to a stiff and heavy feeling.
  • Another aspect of the present invention relates to a method of manufacturing an elastic composite yarn.
  • the first interlacing is performed so that the bonding force between the filaments is 500 to 1500 mg
  • the second interlacing is performed so that the bonding force between the filaments is 9 to 198 mg
  • the low bonding core is wound.
  • a composite elastic yarn can be produced by preparing a yarn, and then coating the obtained low-adhesion core yarn with a short fiber roving yarn and spinning it.
  • the composite elastic yarn of the present invention is produced by spinning core yarn and sheath by ring spinning or open-end spinning in a spinning machine.
  • Spandex yarn is generally produced by dry spinning at high temperatures in a spinning barrel. At this time, the spandex yarn is heated after spinning, resulting in a lower modulus and an appropriate temperature for imparting twist to the yarn. In the drawing process, the spandex yarn passes through an air interlaced nozzle to impart adhesion between the filaments to perform winding. If you want to produce yarns with low adhesion to solve the perkering problem in denim fabrics, you can produce yarns with low adhesion by lowering the pressure applied from the air interlacing nozzle during the yarn spinning process.
  • the air interlaced nozzle (hereinafter referred to as “interlace nozzle”) that imparts adhesion in the spinning process of the core yarn is used as the first and second capable of imparting adhesion in two steps in the spinning process using one existing interlaced nozzle.
  • interlace nozzle By applying the second interlaced nozzle to the spinning process, it is possible to solve the problem of perkering in the final fabric.
  • the first interlaced nozzle 14 controls the pressure and temperature in the same way as the spinning process of the existing spandex, and passes the yarn through the air.
  • the flow rate of air in the general interlaced nozzle is 3 to 4 L/min, and the temperature is 35 to 30° C., and the air flow rate and temperature of the first interlaced nozzle 14 according to the present invention were the same as the above-mentioned existing conditions.
  • the yarn is adjusted so that it can be bonded to two large filament strands.
  • the second interlaced nozzle 15 finally produces a low adhesion elastic core filament having a low adhesion by passing the yarn strands passing through the first interlaced nozzle while applying low temperature and low pressure air. More specifically, the yarn that has passed through the first interlaced nozzle 14 exists in a form of largely bonded to two filament strands, and the yarn is fed from the second interlaced nozzle 15 at a flow rate of 1 to 2 L/min and It is produced to give very low adhesion between two filament strands by passing it through air at a temperature of 15 ⁇ 20°C.
  • the low bonding elastic core filament 21 is obtained by the core yarn manufacturing apparatus 10, and the composite elastic yarn 40 is obtained by the complex elastic yarn spinning apparatus 30.
  • the core yarn manufacturing apparatus 10 used to obtain the low bonding elastic core filament 21 is basically a dry spinning unit 11, a guide cylinder 12 continuously provided to the dry spinning unit 11 ), an oil pickup roller 13, a take-up device 16, and a bobbin 17 associated with the take-up device 16.
  • the polyurethaneurea polymer is first spun in the form of an elastic yarn 20 in the dry spinning unit 11. Subsequently, the obtained elastic yarn 20 passes through the oil pickup roller 13, passes through the first interlace nozzle 14 and the second interlace nozzle 15 by the guide cylinder 12, and is transferred to the take-up device 16. The oil pickup roller 13 transfers the elastic yarn 20 without oscillation and vibration in order to properly wind the elastic yarn 20. The elastic yarn 20 transmitted to the take-up device 16 is wound on the bobbin 17.
  • the composite elastic yarn spinning device 30 is basically a low-cohesion elastic core filament obtained from a roving yarn 31, a yarn drawing cylinder 32 through which the roving yarn 31 passes, a thin roving yarn 31, and a bobbin 17. It includes a guide front cylinder 33 supplied with 21, a yarn guide 34 provided continuously with the guide front cylinder 33, and a spinning unit 35.
  • the spinning unit 35 includes a ring 351, a moving unit 352 and a cop 353.
  • the roving yarn 31 Passing the roving yarn 31 between the yarn drawing cylinders 32, supplying the low bonding elastic core filament 21 from the bobbin 17 to the guiding front cylinder 33, and combining with the drawn roving yarn 31 ,
  • the thin roving yarn 31 and the low adhesion elastic core filament 21 are supplied from the yarn guide 34 to provide a smooth flow, and the spinning unit 35 is oriented, and the spinning unit 35 to the ring 351
  • the thin roving yarn 31 is wound on the low bonding elastic core filament 21, and the composite elastic yarn 40 can be manufactured by spinning and winding on the cob 353. .
  • the composite elastic yarn obtained by this process has a structure in which the roving yarn 31 is covered on the low adhesion elastic core filament 21.
  • the elastic yarn 20 used in the core portion is made of two-end or more elastic yarns supplied from a single bobbin. In this way, when a plurality of ends containing elastic yarns such as spandex provided from a single bobbin are used in the core portion, elasticity and elastic recovery rate can be improved in a final product such as a fabric in which the core yarn is used.
  • the elastic yarn 20 included in the core yarn structure is supplied from an individual bobbin, a difference in tension between the spandex is caused, thereby forming an uneven core yarn structure.
  • high elasticity is achieved by a component of a plurality of elastic yarns 20 provided from a single bobbin 17 of the core portion to a plurality of ends. Therefore, it is possible to obtain a core yarn with high uniformity.
  • the fabric of the present invention includes a composite elastic yarn in which at least one of the warp and weft yarns includes a core portion composed of an elastic core filament and a sheath portion composed of short fibers surrounding the core portion, wherein the elastic core filament is the ASTM D3822 method It is characterized in that it has a low adhesion property in the range of 9 to 198 mg of adhesion between filaments when measured as.
  • the fabric of the present invention can be used as a fabric for denim or non-denim.
  • the composite elastic yarn of the present invention may be used in the manufacture of fabrics, knitted fabrics, non-woven fabrics, and the like, and may be preferably used in stretch fabrics for denim.
  • the fabric can be made in a variety of weaving patterns including plain weave, poplin, twill, oxford, dobby, satin, satin, and combinations thereof.
  • the stretchable fabric of the present invention may have an elongation of 20-50% and an elongation recovery of 90-97%.
  • the fabric may exhibit only weft-elasticity, or may exhibit elasticity in both directions, where useful stretch and resilience properties appear in both warp and weft yarns.
  • the spandex yarn used as the core yarn of the composite elastic yarn was prepared by the following method. Due to the high temperature in the spinning barrel, the spandex yarn is heated after spinning, and is brought out at an appropriate temperature to impart twist to the yarn. At this time, air is imparted while passing through the first interlace nozzle, and the bonding force between the filaments of the spandex yarn is 870 mg, which falls within the range of the 80D universal spandex bonding force value.
  • the bonding force between the filaments of the spandex yarn was measured to be 40 mg, which is a 5% value of 800 mg, which is the bonding force value of the general-purpose spandex of 80D, by applying low-temperature and low-pressure air while passing through the second air interlace nozzle during the winding process.
  • the DR degree of elongation
  • the fabric was woven using 11 pure cotton yarn for warp.
  • the composite elastic yarn was introduced as weft yarn, and the yarn used for the warp was beamed without additional elongation.
  • the average width of the fabric before washing with water was 144 to 149 cm, and the width of the fabric after washing with water was found to be 120 to 125 cm.
  • the fabric was prepared as a sample through a dyeing process in a conventional method after fabrication by the above process.
  • the bonding force between the filaments of the spandex yarn after passing through the first interlaced nozzle is 880 mg, which falls within the range of the 80D universal spandex bonding force value
  • the bonding force between the filaments of the spandex yarn after passing through the second air interlacing nozzle is It was measured as 14 mg, which is a 2% value of 700 mg, which is the adhesion value of the universal spandex of 80D.
  • the composite elastic yarn and fabric were prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the core yarn was different as described above, and then the physical properties were evaluated and the results are shown together in Table 1.
  • the bonding force between the filaments of the spandex yarn after passing through the first interlace nozzle is 870 mg, which is within the range of the 80D universal spandex bonding force value, and after passing through the second air interlace nozzle, the bonding force between the filaments of the spandex yarn is It was measured as 198 mg, which is a 22% value of 900 mg, which is the adhesion value of the universal spandex of 80D.
  • the composite elastic yarn and fabric were prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the core yarn was different as described above, and then the physical properties were evaluated and the results are shown together in Table 1.
  • Composite elastic yarns and fabrics were prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that 50D inelastic fibers and 70D spandex dual-core yarns (120D) were applied as core yarns of the composite elastic yarn, and then the physical properties were evaluated and the results were evaluated. It is shown together in Table 1.
  • the bonding force between the filaments of the spandex yarn after passing through the first interlaced nozzle is 870 mg, which is within the range of the 80D universal spandex bonding force value, and the bonding force between the filaments of the spandex yarn after passing through the second air interlacing nozzle is 80D.
  • Composite elastic yarns and fabrics were prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the adhesive strength of spandex was set to 7 mg, which is a 1% value of 700 mg, and then the physical properties were evaluated and the results are shown in Table 1.
  • the bonding force between the filaments of the spandex yarn is 890 mg, which is within the range of the 80D universal spandex bonding force value, and after passing through the second air interlaced nozzle, the bonding force between the filaments of the spandex yarn is 80D.
  • a composite elastic yarn and a fabric were prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that 230 mg, which is a 25.5% value of 900 mg, which is an adhesion value of spandex, and then the physical properties are evaluated, and the results are shown together in Table 1.
  • the bonding force between the filaments in the composite elastic yarn obtained in the examples was measured using a bonding force measuring device (manufactured by Lenzing Instruments GmbH & Co. KG, Vibrodyn 400) according to ASTM D3822-07.
  • the measuring method is a measuring device that measures the tensile strength of one fiber by separating one filament from the yarn with a fingertip and measuring the tensile strength of one fiber by measuring the separated filament and each end of the filaments remaining unseparated. Hang it on Vibrodyn-400, manufactured by Co., Ltd., and measure the force (mg) when the separated filament and the remaining filaments are separated by elongation by stretching at a constant rate of 1,000%/min.
  • the strength and elongation between the filaments in the yarn were measured using an automatic elongation measuring device (manufacturer: Textechno, model name: MEL) with a load cell of 32cN, a sample length of 10 cm, and a tensile speed of 100 cm/min. At this time, the strength and elongation values at break were measured.
  • an automatic elongation measuring device manufactured by Textechno, model name: MEL

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
  • Fluid Mechanics (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne : un fil élastique composite qui comprend une partie d'âme composée de filaments d'âme élastiques et une partie de gaine composée de fibres courtes et recouvrant la partie d'âme, les filaments d'âme élastiques ayant des caractéristiques d'adhésion faible, l'adhésion entre les filaments se trouvant dans la plage de 9 à 198 mg, telle que mesurée selon la méthode ASTM D3822 ; un tissu ; et un procédé de fabrication d'un fil élastique composite. Selon la présente invention, le problème de fronçage se produisant sur la surface d'un tissu denim peut être résolu, ce qui permet d'obtenir un toucher amélioré et d'améliorer la qualité d'un produit final.
PCT/KR2020/006160 2019-11-14 2020-05-11 Fil élastique composite, tissu extensible et procédé de fabrication de fil élastique composite WO2021096008A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (4)

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US17/766,399 US20240011200A1 (en) 2019-11-14 2019-05-11 Composite elastic yarn, stretchable fabric, and method for manufacturing composite elastic yarn
CN202080074607.8A CN114599829B (zh) 2019-11-14 2020-05-11 复合弹力纱、伸缩性织物及复合弹力纱的制造方法
BR112022007993A BR112022007993A2 (pt) 2019-11-14 2020-05-11 Fio elástico compósito, tecido extensível e método para fabricar fios elásticos compósitos
EP20888510.3A EP4060103A4 (fr) 2019-11-14 2020-05-11 Fil élastique composite, tissu extensible et procédé de fabrication de fil élastique composite

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KR1020190146071A KR102171832B1 (ko) 2019-11-14 2019-11-14 복합 탄성사, 신축성 직물, 및 복합 탄성사의 제조방법
KR10-2019-0146071 2019-11-14

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EP (1) EP4060103A4 (fr)
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CN112064159B (zh) * 2020-09-18 2022-08-09 山东黄河三角洲纺织科技研究院有限公司 一种亚麻纤维混纺纱线及其生产工艺
WO2023013796A1 (fr) * 2021-08-04 2023-02-09 주식회사 신진텍스 Tissu indigo et procédé pour sa fabrication

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CN114599829A (zh) 2022-06-07
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US20240011200A1 (en) 2024-01-11
CN114599829B (zh) 2023-07-21
BR112022007993A2 (pt) 2022-07-05

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