WO2021028655A1 - Composition cosmétique solide constituée de beurre végétal et d'huile végétale - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique solide constituée de beurre végétal et d'huile végétale Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021028655A1
WO2021028655A1 PCT/GB2020/051871 GB2020051871W WO2021028655A1 WO 2021028655 A1 WO2021028655 A1 WO 2021028655A1 GB 2020051871 W GB2020051871 W GB 2020051871W WO 2021028655 A1 WO2021028655 A1 WO 2021028655A1
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Prior art keywords
butter
cosmetic composition
solid cosmetic
oil
present
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/GB2020/051871
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English (en)
Inventor
Mark Constantine
Margaret Joan Constantine
Helen Elizabeth Ambrosen
Rowena Jacqueline Bird
Alessandro COMMISSO
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Cosmetic Warriors Limited
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Publication of WO2021028655A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021028655A1/fr

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216Solid or semisolid forms
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/733Alginic acid; Salts thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/737Galactomannans, e.g. guar; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a solid cosmetic product, a process for producing said product, and a product prepared by the method.
  • the present invention relates to products particularly those for use in contact with the human body.
  • the present invention relates to the increasing demand for fresh and natural cosmetics and for unpackaged cosmetics.
  • Modern cosmetic products are formulated to have a very long shelf life.
  • the shelf life of a typical product is thirty one months.
  • products before products reach a retail environment, they are shipped and then stored in warehouses, sometimes for years before sale. Products may be labelled with a ‘best used by date’ but without an indication of when they were made. Consequently many formulations are assembled with longevity more in mind than effect.
  • emulsions and creams are typically sold in containers to the end user and may be dispensed by the end user.
  • the required use of packaging is a disadvantage. From an environmental perspective, waste packaging is a significant problem, despite the availability of recycling.
  • these products are prepared many months before they are applied to the skin.
  • the present invention seeks to provide a solid cosmetic product which may be used to readily form a cream or lotion for contacting with the skin of a user.
  • a solid cosmetic composition comprising
  • a process for the production of a solid cosmetic composition comprising the steps of: i) preparing a first composition comprising
  • a cosmetic method comprising contacting the skin of a user with a cosmetic prepared from a solid cosmetic composition as described herein and water.
  • a solid product may be delivered to the end user in a form which does not require sale or transportation in packaging.
  • the user may then apply water to the surface of this product and by agitation of the water on the surface of the product may form a ‘fresh’ emulsion that may then be used as a cosmetic.
  • the emulsion may be a cream or lotion such as those known to the user.
  • the present invention provides the multiple advantages of avoidance of unnecessary packaging, avoidance of transportation of water present in a cream or lotion product and allowing for the preparation of a fresh product.
  • growth of microorganisms is inhibited. This inhibition of growth through the reduction of water allows for the product to be free from the preservatives that would otherwise be necessary to avoid spoilage of a water-containing cream or lotion.
  • a solid cosmetic composition comprising
  • a cosmetic product means that the product is not edible.
  • a non edible solid cosmetic composition comprising
  • the solid products of the present invention are compositions which can substantially sustain their physical shape when unsupported by external means, e.g. packaging etc. Thus, they are considered to be solid, solid-like, in solid form or in solid-like form at room temperature. For the avoidance of doubt the solid product must remain substantially solid at up to 30 °C.
  • solid-like it is understood that some materials are considered on a day to day basis to be solid, yet over an extremely long period of time, may alter in shape, e.g. amorphous materials such as glass etc. However, they are considered to be solid-like as, for the purpose they fulfil, they are solid.
  • the vegetable butters used in the present invention are triglycerides, which are found to be solid (including solid-like, discussed above) at normal usage temperatures.
  • the term vegetable butter is understood by one skilled in the art and means a triglyceride obtainable from vegetable source which has the consistency of a butter.
  • the vegetable butter is a triglyceride which remains substantially solid at up to 30 °C. It will be appreciated however that it is not a requirement that the vegetable butter have a solid fat content of 100% at normal usage temperatures.
  • the vegetable butter is a triglyceride having a solid fat content of at least 70%, preferably at least 80%, preferably at least 90%, preferably at least 95%, preferably at least 98%, preferably at least 99% at 25 °C.
  • the vegetable oils used in the present invention are triglycerides, which are found to be liquid at normal usage temperatures.
  • the vegetable oil is a triglyceride which remains substantially liquid at up to 30 °C. It will be appreciated however that it is not a requirement that the vegetable butter have a solid fat content of 0% at normal usage temperatures.
  • the vegetable oil is a triglyceride having a solid fat content of no greater than 30%, preferably no greater than 20%, preferably no greater than 10%, preferably no greater than 5%, preferably no greater than 2%, preferably no greater than 1% at 25 °C.
  • the composition of the present invention is made by moulding of the product.
  • a typical process comprises the steps of: i) preparing a first composition comprising (a) vegetable butter, vegetable oil or a mixture thereof; and (b) a first emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9, wherein the first composition is at a temperature at which it is liquid; ii) preparing a second composition comprising (c) a second emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20, wherein the second composition is at a temperature at which it is liquid; and (iii) combining the first composition with the second composition, placing in a mould and allowing to solidify to form the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the present composition contains vegetable butter and vegetable oil .
  • the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 30 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 35 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 40 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 45 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 50 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 55 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 60 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 65 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 70 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 75 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 80 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 85 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 30 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 35 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 40 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 45 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 50 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 55 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 60 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 65 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 70 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 75 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 80 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of vegetable butter and vegetable oil present is from 85 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the vegetable oil, vegetable butter or mixture thereof may be selected from any suitable vegetable oils and vegetable butters.
  • the vegetable butter, vegetable oil or mixture thereof is selected from Cocoa butter, lllipe butter, Murumuru butter, Kokum butter, Aloe butter, Avocado butter, Cupuacu butter, Macadamia Nut butter, Mango butter, Olive butter, Shea butter, coconut butter, Pumpkin Seed butter, Peanut butter, Almond butter, Coffee Bean butter, Refined butter, Hemp Seed butter, Mochacchino butter, Pistachio Nut butter, Shealoe butter, almond oil, jojoba oil, castor oil, olive oil, grape seed oil, argan oil, moringa oil, baobab oil, rose hip oil, kalahari melon oil, brazil nut oil and mixtures thereof.
  • the vegetable butter, vegetable oil or mixture thereof is selected from lllipe butter, Kokum butter, Cupuacu butter, Shea butter, almond oil, jojoba oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 30 to 80 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 35 to 80 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 40 to 80 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 45 to 80 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 50 to 80 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 55 to 80 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 60 to 80 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 65 to 80 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 70 to 80 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 75 to 80 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 30 to 70 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 35 to 70 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 40 to 70 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 45 to 70 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 50 to 70 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 55 to 70 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 60 to 70 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 65 to 70 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the vegetable butter may be selected from cocoa butter, illipe butter, murumuru butter, kokum butter, aloe butter, avocado butter, cupuacu butter, macadamia nut butter, mango butter, olive butter, shea butter, coconut butter, pumpkin seed butter, peanut butter, almond butter, coffee bean butter, refined butter, hemp seed butter, mochacchino butter, pistachio nut butter, shealoe butter and mixtures thereof.
  • the vegetable butter is selected from Illipe butter, Kokum butter, Cupuacu butter, Shea butter, and mixtures thereof.
  • the vegetable oil may be present in any suitable amount. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 1 to 50 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 2 to 50 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 3 to 50 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 5 to 50 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 10 to 50 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 15 to 50 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 5 to 45 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 10 to 45 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 15 to 45 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 1 to 40 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 5 to 40 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 10 to 40 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 15 to 40 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 1 to 35 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 5 to 35 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 10 to 35 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 15 to 35 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 1 to 30 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 5 to 30 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 10 to 30 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 15 to 30 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 1 to 25 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 5 to 25 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 10 to 25 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 15 to 25 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 1 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 5 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 10 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 15 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 1 to 15 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 5 to 15 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable oil is present in an amount of from 10 to 15 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the vegetable oil may be selected from almond oil, jojoba oil, castor oil, olive oil, grape seed oil, argan oil, moringa oil, baobab oil, rose hip oil, kalahari melon oil, brazil nut oil and mixtures thereof.
  • the vegetable oil is selected from almond oil, jojoba oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • the present composition comprises a first emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9.
  • HLB is the hydrophilic- lipophilic balance of a surfactant is a measure of the degree to which it is hydrophilic or lipophilic.
  • the HLB value may be determined by calculating values for the different regions of the molecule, as described by Griffin in Griffin, William C. (1949), "Classification of Surface-Active Agents by 'HLB'" (PDF), Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, 1 (5): 311-26 and Griffin, William C.
  • HLB value may be determined in accordance with the industry standard text book, namely “The HLB SYSTEM, a time-saving guide to emulsifier selection” ICI Americas Inc., Published 1976 and Revised, March, 1980. The HLB values of the emulsifiers described herein were determined in accordance with this standard method.
  • the first emulsifier has a HLB value of from 3 to 9. In one aspect the first emulsifier has a HLB value of from 4 to 9. In one aspect the first emulsifier has a HLB value of from 4.3 to 9.
  • the first emulsifier may be selected from any suitable emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9.
  • the first emulsifier is an emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9 selected from mono and diglycerydes of fatty acid including glyceryl stearate and glyceryl oleate; fatty acid esters of C12-C22 fatty alcohols including fatty acid esters of cetyl alcohol and fatty acid esters of stearoyl alcohol, mixtures of fatty acid esters of cetyl alcohol and fatty acid esters of stearoyl alcohol, mixtures of fatty acid esters of cetyl alcohol and fatty acid esters of stearoyl alcohol, mixtures of fatty acid esters of cetyl alcohol and fatty acid esters of stearoyl alcohol wherein the fatty acids are derived from olive oil (such as cetearly olivate), fatty acid esters of sorbitol including sorbitan oleate,
  • the first emulsifier is an emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9 selected from mono and diglycerydes of fatty acid, fatty acid esters of C12-C22 fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of sorbitol, and mixtures thereof
  • the first emulsifier may be present in any suitable amount.
  • the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 18 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 16 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 14 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 12 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 10 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 8 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 7 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 3 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 4 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 6 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 18 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 16 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 14 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 12 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the first emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 10 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the present composition comprises a second emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20.
  • the second emulsifier has a HLB value of from 10 to 19.
  • the second emulsifier has a HLB value of from 10 to 18.
  • the second emulsifier has a HLB value of from 10 to 13.
  • the second emulsifier has a HLB value of from 10 to 17.
  • the second emulsifier has a HLB value of from 10 to 16.
  • the second emulsifier has a HLB value of from 10 to 15.
  • the second emulsifier has a HLB value of from 10 to 14.
  • the second emulsifier has a HLB value of from 10 to 13.
  • the second emulsifier has a HLB value of from 10 to 12.
  • the second emulsifier may be selected from any suitable emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20.
  • the second emulsifier is an emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20 selected from fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, such as fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol wherein the fatty acids are derived from coconut oil (including PEG 7), fatty acid esters of polyglycerol including fatty acid esters of polyglycerol and oleic acid (such as polyglyceryl 10 oleate), and mixtures thereof.
  • the second emulsifier is an emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20 selected from fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, fatty acid esters of polyglycerol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the second emulsifier may be present in any suitable amount. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 18 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 16 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 14 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 12 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 2 to 10 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 3 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 4 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 6 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 7 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 8 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 20 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 18 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 16 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 14 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 12 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the second emulsifier is present in an amount of from 5 to 10 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the composition comprises (d) one or more gelling agents, one or more thickening agents, or a mixture thereof. In one aspect the composition further comprises one or more gelling agents. In one aspect the composition further comprises one or more thickening agents. In one aspect the composition further comprises a mixture of one or more gelling agents and one or more thickening agents.
  • the gelling agent or thickening agent may be selected from any suitable gelling agents or thickening agents.
  • the gelling agent or thickening agent is typically selected such that, in combination with the emulsifiers of the present composition, an emulsion may be formed by agitating the solid composition with water without the need to apply heat.
  • an emulsion may be formed by agitating the solid composition with water at room temperature. Small amounts of heat energy may result from the action of the agitation. However, no additional heat is required.
  • the gelling agent or thickening agent may be selected from any suitable gelling agents and or thickening agents.
  • the gelling agent is a hydrocolloid gelling agent.
  • the thickening agent is a hydrocolloid thickening agent.
  • hydrocolloids are a heterogeneous group of long chain polymers characterised by their property of forming viscous dispersions and/or gels when dispersed in water. Some hydrocolloids have the ability to modify the rheology of compositions comprising water. However, there are two distinct types of hydrocolloid: gelling agents (i.e. those that modify the texture and/or solidity of the composition) and thickening agents (i.e.
  • the water- thickening property is common to all hydrocolloids, whilst only a few hydrocolloids have the ability to form gels (i.e. to act as a gelling agent).
  • Gel formation is typically regarded as the phenomenon involving the association or cross-linking of the polymer chains to form a three-dimensional network that traps or immobilises the water within it to form a rigid structure that is resistant to flow. In other words, the composition becomes viscoelastic exhibiting both the characteristics of a liquid and a solid.
  • thickening of a composition merely involves the non-specific entanglement of conformationally disordered polymer chains, and is essentially a polymer-solvent interaction (see, for example, D. Saha and S. Bhattacharya, J. Food Sci. Technol., 2010, 47(6): 597-597).
  • Gels may be defined as a form of matter intermediate between solid and liquid, and which show mechanical rigidity. They comprise polymer molecules cross-linked to form a tangled and interconnected molecular network immersed in a liquid medium.
  • the word “gel” typically refers to high moisture compositions that substantially sustain their physical shape when released from their container. More specifically, gels are viscoelastic systems with a storage modulus (G’) larger than the loss modulus (G”). Though all hydrocolloids may thicken aqueous dispersions, only a comparatively few gums are understood to form gels.
  • Hydrocolloids that may act as gelling agents include modified starch, agar, carrageenan, pectin, gellan gum, alginate (when combined with calcium ions), methyl cellulose, and hydroxylpropyl methylcellulose. Hydrocolloids such as xanthan gum, guar gum, konjac gum, gum tragacanth and gum Arabic are known thickening agents, but are not generally regarded as being gelling agents.
  • the gelling agent may be selected from the group consisting of carrageenan, agar, pectin, a combination of a salt of alginic acid and calcium ions, calcium alginate, gellan gum, methyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, modified starch, and mixtures thereof.
  • the gelling agent may be selected from the group consisting of carrageenan, agar, pectin, a combination of a salt of alginic acid and calcium ions, calcium alginate, gellan gum, and mixtures thereof.
  • the salt of alginic acid may be selected from sodium alginate, potassium alginate, ammonium alginate, magnesium alginate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the salt of alginic acid is sodium alginate, which is combined with a source of calcium ions in order to form the gel.
  • carrageenan is traditionally split into three basic forms: lambda-carrageenan, kappa-carrageenan and iota-carrageenan. It has been found by the present inventors that kappa-carrageenan and/or iota-carrageenan may provide for an improved gelling effect as compared with that of lambda-carrageenan. Therefore, in some embodiments, the carrageenan is kappa-carrageenan or iota-carrageenan.
  • the gelling agent is selected from the group consisting of kappa- carrageenan, iota-carrageenan, agar, pectin, a combination of a salt of alginic acid and calcium ions, calcium alginate, gellan gum, and mixtures thereof.
  • the gelling agent is or comprises gellan gum.
  • the gellan gum may be high acyl gellan gum and/or low acyl gellan gum.
  • gellan gum is a straight chain polymer that comprises repeating units of glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acids.
  • “High acyl” gellan gum has two acyl substituents, acetate and glycerate, that are located on the glucose residues. On average, there is one glycerate per repeat unit and one acetate every two repeat units when both are located on the same glucose residue. Deacylated (or “low acyl”) gellan gum has these acyl groups removed during processing.
  • the gelling agent is or comprises high acyl gellan gum.
  • the gelling agent is or comprises low acyl gellan gum.
  • the term “gelling agent” as used herein does not encompass hydrocolloids that act as thickening agents, but which do not enable the formation of viscoelastic gels. Therefore, as used herein, the term “gelling agent” does not encompass hydrocolloids such as xanthan gum, guar gum, konjac gum, gum tragacanth and gum Arabic.
  • xanthan gum is understood to be a thickening agent that thickens compositions when added during cold processing (i.e. when heat is not applied). However, xanthan gum is understood to not provide any additional gelling effect when a composition is produced by hot and/or cold processes.
  • the gelling agent comprises or consists of iota-carrageenan.
  • the gelling agent consists of iota-carrageenan; i.e. iota-carrageenan is the only gelling agent used in the composition.
  • the thickening agent may be selected from any suitable thickening agent.
  • the thickening agent may be selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, guar gum, konjac gum, gum tragacanth, gum arabic and mixtures thereof.
  • the one or more gelling agents, one or more thickening agents, or mixture thereof is selected from guar gum, cationic guar gum, arabic gum, acacia gum, tragacanth gum, alginate such as sodium alginate, xanthan gum, konjac, carrageenan, pectin and mixtures thereof.
  • the one or more gelling agents, one or more thickening agents, or mixture thereof may be present in any suitable amount.
  • the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.1 to 10 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.1 to 8 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.1 to 6 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.1 to 5 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.1 to 4 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.1 to 3 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.5 to 10 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.5 to 8 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.5 to 6 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.5 to 5 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.5 to 4 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.5 to 3 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.1 to 10 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.5 to 10 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 1 to 10 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 2 to 10 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 3 to 10 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.1 to 5 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 0.5 to 5 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 1 to 5 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 2 to 5 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the total amount of gelling agent and thickening agent present is from 3 to 5 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the solid product of the present invention may also comprise one or more cosmetically acceptable additives.
  • cosmetically acceptable additives suitable for incorporation into such compositions, for example, binders, fillers, opacifiers, perfumes, fragrances, decorative items, organic pigments inorganic pigments, and mixtures thereof.
  • the present solid cosmetic composition allows the incorporating of materials that would normally settle out of or precipitate in a liquid cream or lotion. By providing these materials within the solid cosmetic composition they may be incorporated into the liquid product when water is added. This is a further advantage of the formation by application of water and agitation of a ‘fresh’ emulsion that may then be used as a cosmetic.
  • the composition of the present invention further comprises a fragrance.
  • the fragrance is selected from essential oils.
  • the fragrance is present in an amount of from 0.001 to 10 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the fragrance is present in an amount of from 0.001 to 8 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the fragrance is present in an amount of from 0.001 to 6 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the fragrance is present in an amount of from 0.001 to 4 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the fragrance is present in an amount of from 0.001 to 3 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the fragrance is present in an amount of from 0.001 to 2 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the fragrance is present in an amount of from 0.001 to 1 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • Fruit and herb extracts and juices, vegetable oils and essential oils are all compatible with the composition.
  • the cosmetically acceptable additives are selected from the group consisting of essential oils, vitamins, fragrances, colourings, clays, decorative articles, and mixtures thereof.
  • the essential oils may be selected based on the fragrance desired, skin type to be treated and other effects desired based on the well-known properties of essential oils.
  • the addition of essential oils, when taken in to the nose, are known to alter mood.
  • essential oils are known to create effects of drowsiness or stimulating the senses. Many well documented effects can be achieved by the use of essential oils.
  • the one or more essential oils present in the solid product are selected from Tarragon, Lemon myrtle, Jasmin, Ylang ylang, Labdunum, Lemongrass, Rose otto, Grapefruit, Patchouli, Rosemary, Armois, Lemon, Neroli, Sweet violet, Lavender, Orange 50 fold, Vanilla, Peppermint, Benzoin, Hydrangia, Litsea Cubeba, Cardamon, Tonka, and Chamomile blue.
  • the one or more essential oils present in the solid product are selected from Tarragon, Lemon myrtle, Labdunum, and Lemon.
  • Vitamins particularly B, C and E are very beneficial for the skin. Vitamin rich ingredients such as Wheatgerm oil can also be used to deliver vitamins on to the skin.
  • the vitamins are selected from vitamin B, vitamin C, vitamin E and mixtures thereof.
  • the vitamin may be provided from any suitable source.
  • the vitamin(s) may be provided from a synthetic source or from incorporation into the solid product of a material, such as a natural material, that has a high vitamin content.
  • the ingredients in the present invention do not require cosmetic preservatives.
  • the use of cosmetic preservatives can increase the potential to irritate the skin.
  • the decorative items which may be present in the solid product include items such as glitter, paper such as rice paper, sequins, dried or fresh flowers, herbs, vegetables, parts thereof or mixtures thereof. Other enhancing materials may also be incorporated
  • Further preferred additive materials include vegetable oils, chocolate, herbs and spices, cosmetic colours (e.g. paprika, gardenia extract, D&C red no. 30), beans (e.g. aduki), fruit, fresh or dried (e.g. banana, avocado, mango, papaya, kiwi, raspberry, strawberry, blueberries, grapes, tomato, asparagus, or cucumber), honey, glycerin, cosmetic glitter, other vegetable butters (e.g. mango, avocado), clays (e.g. kaolin), starches (e.g. corn starch), popping candy and mixtures thereof.
  • cosmetic colours e.g. paprika, gardenia extract, D&C red no. 30
  • beans e.g. aduki
  • fruit fresh or dried
  • honey e.g. mango, avocado
  • glycerin e.g. mango, avocado
  • water may be present in an amount of no greater than about 10% by weight of the solid cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in an amount of no greater than about 8% by weight of the solid cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in an amount of no greater than about 7% by weight of the solid cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in an amount of no greater than about 6% by weight of the solid cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in an amount of no greater than about 5% by weight of the solid cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in an amount of no greater than about 3% by weight of the solid cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in an amount of no greater than about 2.5% by weight of the solid cosmetic composition. In some embodiments, water may be present in an amount of no greater than about 2% by weight of the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the solid composition of the present invention may also comprise one or more waxes.
  • the composition comprises vegetable butter in low amounts, the presence of a wax improves the solidity of the product.
  • the composition contains vegetable butter in an amount of less than 0.1 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition, and further comprises a wax.
  • the one or more waxes are selected from carnauba wax, candelilla, Japan wax, beeswax, rapeseed wax, sunflower wax, orange peel wax, rose wax, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, ozocerite wax and mixtures thereof.
  • the invention provides a process for the production of a solid cosmetic composition as defined herein the process comprising the steps of: i) preparing a first composition comprising (a) vegetable butter and vegetable oil ; and
  • composition of the present invention may be made by moulding of the product.
  • a typical process comprises the steps of: i) preparing a first composition comprising (a) vegetable butter, vegetable oil or a mixture thereof; and (b) a first emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9, wherein the first composition is at a temperature at which it is liquid; ii) preparing a second composition comprising (c) a second emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20, wherein the second composition is at a temperature at which it is liquid; and (iii) combining the first composition with the second composition, placing in a mould and allowing to solidify to form the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the shape of the solid products of the present invention is not limited. It may be that the solid products are provided with a shape which would be aesthetically pleasing and / or which aids in the use of the product. For example, it may be that the solid product is produced in such a manner so that it solidifies in a shape which is ergonomically acceptable to the user. Products which are approximately spherical, cuboidal or cylindrical are each envisaged.
  • the present invention also provides a product obtained or obtainable by a process as described herein.
  • a method comprising contacting the skin of a user a cosmetic prepared by contacting water with the solid cosmetic composition as defined herein.
  • water is contacted with the surface of the solid cosmetic composition and is agitated, for example by the finger of the user.
  • the agitation melts solid cosmetic composition and mixes it with the water to form an emulsion.
  • the emulsion may then be applied to the skin of the user.
  • the solid cosmetic composition forms a moisturiser when agitated with water at 20 °C.
  • the cosmetic emulsion formed may be a moisturiser.
  • this solid cosmetic composition comprising (a) vegetable butter, vegetable oil or a mixture thereof; (b) a first emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9; and (c) a second emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20, allows the for the incorporation of a gelling agent or thickening agent which in use is gradually released allowing the user to create creams having a consistent viscosity each time water is applied.
  • a solid cosmetic composition comprising (a) vegetable butter, vegetable oil or a mixture thereof; (b) a first emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9; and (c) a second emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20.
  • a process for the production of a solid cosmetic composition comprising the steps of: i) preparing a first composition comprising (a) vegetable butter, vegetable oil or a mixture thereof; and (b) a first emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9; ii) preparing a second composition comprising (c) a second emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20; and (iii) combining the first composition with the second composition of step to form the solid cosmetic composition.
  • a product obtained or obtainable by a process comprising the steps of: i) preparing a first composition comprising (a) vegetable butter, vegetable oil or a mixture thereof; and (b) a first emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9; ii) preparing a second composition comprising (c) a second emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20; and (iii) combining the first composition with the second composition of step to form the solid cosmetic composition.
  • a cosmetic method comprising contacting the skin of a user with a cosmetic prepared from a solid cosmetic composition comprising (a) vegetable butter, vegetable oil or a mixture thereof; (b) a first emulsifier having a HLB value of from 2 to 9; and (c) a second emulsifier having a HLB value of from 10 to 20.
  • the composition comprises at least vegetable butter. In one aspect, the composition comprises at least vegetable oil. In one aspect, the composition comprises a mixture of vegetable butter and vegetable oil.
  • the vegetable butter may be present in any suitable amount. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 30 to 98 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 30 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 35 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 40 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 45 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 50 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 55 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 60 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 65 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 70 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 75 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 80 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 85 to 95 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 30 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 35 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 40 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 45 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 50 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 55 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 60 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 65 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 70 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 75 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 80 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition. In one aspect, the vegetable butter is present in an amount of from 85 to 90 wt.% based on the solid cosmetic composition.
  • compositions were prepared:
  • compositions were prepared in accordance with the following method:
  • A was optionally tempered by heating and cooling again.
  • each of the products of examples 1-13 was formulated to provide moisturiser for the face.
  • Further cosmetic products in accordance with the present invention may be provided.
  • the following compositions may be prepared
  • Example 14 Body Conditioner
  • compositions of Examples 14-16 are prepared in accordance with the following method:
  • A was optionally tempered by heating and cooling again.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique solide constituée (a) de beurre végétal et d'huile végétale ; (b) d'un premier émulsifiant présentant un équilibre hydrophile-lipophile de 2 à 9 ; (c) d'un second émulsifiant présentant un équilibre hydrophile-lipophile de 10 à 20 ; et (d) d'un ou plusieurs agents gélifiants, d'un ou plusieurs agents épaississants, ou d'un mélange de ceux-ci ; la quantité totale de beurre végétal et d'huile végétale présente étant de 30 à 95 % en poids sur la base de la composition cosmétique solide ; et le beurre végétal étant présent en une quantité de 30 à 80 % en poids sur la base de la composition cosmétique solide.
PCT/GB2020/051871 2019-08-09 2020-08-05 Composition cosmétique solide constituée de beurre végétal et d'huile végétale WO2021028655A1 (fr)

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GB2618381A (en) * 2022-05-06 2023-11-08 Cosmetic Warriors Ltd Composition
WO2023214178A1 (fr) * 2022-05-06 2023-11-09 Cosmetic Warriors Limited Composition cosmétique solide

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