WO2023064836A1 - Mélange sous forme de pré-émulsion pour soins personnels - Google Patents

Mélange sous forme de pré-émulsion pour soins personnels Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2023064836A1
WO2023064836A1 PCT/US2022/078015 US2022078015W WO2023064836A1 WO 2023064836 A1 WO2023064836 A1 WO 2023064836A1 US 2022078015 W US2022078015 W US 2022078015W WO 2023064836 A1 WO2023064836 A1 WO 2023064836A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
emulsion
composition
oil
dry blend
weight
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/US2022/078015
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Nabila BELHAJ
Pauline DARCEL
Jean-Noel Ollagnier
Original Assignee
Cargill, Incorporated
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Cargill, Incorporated filed Critical Cargill, Incorporated
Publication of WO2023064836A1 publication Critical patent/WO2023064836A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0279—Porous; Hollow
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the production of a personal care pre-emulsion mixture that can be conveniently mixed with water to create and emulsion.
  • a novel combination of starches allows for the manufacturing of a dry mixture containing an emollient that may be easily mixed with water and optionally other ingredients to create a personal care emulsified product.
  • the inventors describe a combination of a porous starch, an emulsifier, and an emollient which may be simply mixed together to create a dry mixture that is useful to create emulsions though the simple addition of water.
  • This approach avoids costly creation and subsequent drying of an emulsion as previously performed and provides a cost- effective tailorable solution to personal care manufacturers.
  • the dry mixture may be easily shipped to manufacturers and mixed with water to create an emulsion on site with flexibility to add tailored ingredients of their choice.
  • the present disclosure relates to a composition
  • a composition comprising a dry blend of a porous starch, an emollient, and an emulsifier system wherein: the porous starch comprises 20% to 50% by weight of the composition; the emollient comprises 20% to 50% by weight of the composition; and the emulsifier system comprises 5% to 25% by weight of the composition.
  • the present disclosure also relates to an emulsion comprising an aqueous phase and a dry blend of a porous starch, an emollient, and an emulsifier system wherein: the porous starch comprises 20% to 50% by weight of the dry blend; the emollient comprises 20% to 60% by weight of the dry blend; and the emulsifier system comprises 5% to 15% by weight of the dry blend
  • porous starch is a starch that has been modified to allow it to incorporate liquids into its 3-dimensional structure; typically by an increase its surface area. Creation of porous starch through various modifications is known in the art. (See e.g., Liu et. al, Functional Starch and Applications in Food, Chapter 4, pages 91-117.) Enzymatic treatment of a native starch is one example of a process to create a porous starch.
  • PCT publication WO/2009/103514A1 also discloses a method of making porous starch and is hereby incorporated by reference to the extent allowed.
  • the porous starch is obtained from Cargill Incorporated under the brand name Starrier RTM.
  • the porous starch can be present in the dry blend in an amount of 20 to 50% by weight. In some aspects, the porous starch is present in an amount of 25 to 50% by weight.
  • dry refers to a mixture or component containing a limited amount or substantially no water. Mixtures or components containing 0 (or an undetectable amount) to 15% water are to be considered dry. In other aspects mixtures or components containing 0.1 to 10% water are to be considered dry. In other aspects mixtures or components containing 0.1 to 5% water are to be considered dry.
  • the dry blend further comprises a texturizer.
  • texturizer as used herein means a substance that adds texture, body, thickness, or viscosity to a mixture. Texturizers are well known in the cosmetic and food arts.
  • the texturizer is a natural components such as a starch or hydrocolloid, or may be a synthetic component such as carbomer (e.g. Carbopol®940 from Lubrizol).
  • carbomer e.g. Carbopol®940 from Lubrizol
  • the texturizer is a hydrocolloid.
  • Hydrocolloids are incorporated into food and other formulations mainly to control rheology and structure. In aqueous environments, hydrocolloids swell, increasing their hydrodynamic volume, thereby increasing the viscosity of the system. In addition, if the hydrocolloids entrain sufficient water due to their concentration, their chains will interact, yielding a gelled network. They can be derived from a number of natural sources and generally possess multiple hydroxyl groups and may be polyelectrolytes.
  • hydrocolloid refers to a hydrophilic polymers, including polysaccharides, derived from a natural sources including plant (e.g., locust bean gum, carrageenan, pectin), animal (e.g., chitosan), microbial (e.g., xanthan gum), or chemical modification of natural polysaccharides (e.g., carboxymethyl cellulose).
  • plant e.g., locust bean gum, carrageenan, pectin
  • animal e.g., chitosan
  • microbial e.g., xanthan gum
  • chemical modification of natural polysaccharides e.g., carboxymethyl cellulose
  • the hydrocolloid is selected from the group consisting of locust bean gum, an alginate, scleroglucan, carrageenan, pectin, chitosan, xanthan gum, citrus peel fibers, carboxymethylcellulose or mixtures thereof.
  • the hydrocolloid is carrageenan, xanthan gum, scleroglucan, citrus fibers or a mixture there of, and in one aspect the hydrocolloid is a scleroglucan.
  • the texturizer is commercially available as CS- 11 from Cargill Incorporated.
  • the texturizer is sclaroglucan, xanthan gum, or both.
  • Texturizers can be present in any useful or desired amount. Typically, texturizers will be present in amount of 0.1-7% of the dry blend, in some aspects the texturizer is present 0.5-5% of the dry blend.
  • the dry blend disclosed herein contains an emulsifier system.
  • emulsifier system means a single emulsifier or mixture of emulsifiers.
  • Emulsifier means a substance that stabilizes an emulsion by increasing its kinetic stability.
  • Emulsifiers are compounds that are typically amphiphilic, meaning they have a polar or hydrophilic (i. e. , water-soluble) part and a non-polar (i.e., hydrophobic or lipophilic) part. Because of this, emulsifiers tend to have more or less solubility either in water or in oil and stabilize the interface between the two phases of an emulsion.
  • Emulsifiers may be synthetic or naturally based.
  • the emulsifier may be a modified starch having a structure that has been altered from its native state, resulting in modification of one or more of its chemical or physical properties.
  • Starches may be modified, for example, by enzymes, oxidation or, substitution with various compounds.
  • starches can be modified to increase stability against heat, acids, or freezing, improve texture, increase or decrease viscosity, increase or decrease gelatinization times, and/or increase or decrease solubility, among others.
  • Modified starches may be partially or completely degraded (or hydrolyzed) into shorter chains or glucose molecules.
  • Amylopectin may be debranched.
  • modified starches are cross-linked for example to improve stability. Starches that are modified by substitution have a different chemical composition.
  • a nOSA starch is a modified starch that has been partially substituted, e.g., from about 0.1% to about 3%, with n-octenyl succinic anhydride. Preparation of nOSA starches is well known in the art and they are available commercially from a variety of sources. (Cleargum® from Roquette and El 450 Ingredion are examples).
  • the nOSA starch may be prepared from an otherwise modified or hydrolyzed starch.
  • the nOSA starches of the present invention include C*EmTex 12688 and 12635 (sodium starch octenylsuccinate) commercially available from Cargill Incorporated.
  • the emulsifier comprises of nOSA starch. In some aspects the emulsifier consists essentially of a of nOSA starch. [0022] In some aspects emulsifiers include but are not limited to: nOSA starches, lecithins, alkyl polyglucosides, C(12-14) alkyl polyglucosides and mixtures thereof.
  • Classes of emulsifiers commonly comprise nonionic surfactants having such an HLB value, including polyalkylene oxide esters or ethers, such as polyethylene oxide (POE) and/or poly propylene oxide (POP) esters or ethers optionally containing a glyceryl unit and/or fatty ester or ether derivatives of a polyhydroxyaliphatic or cycloaliphatic group containing from 3 to 6 carbons, such as glycerol or sorbitol.
  • POE and/or POP units in nonionic surfactant emulsifiers is commonly between 2 and 100 and particularly on weight average between 3 and 25 units and in many instances on average between 4 and 10.
  • the hydrophobic component therein is usually provided by the alkyl residue of a fatty alcohol or acid, in many instances containing from 12 to 30 carbons, and in particular one or more palmityl, cetyl stearyl and/or eicosonyl or behenyl groups. Of these, stearyl and a mixture of stearyl and cetyl are typically favoured.
  • Another suitable class of emulsifiers particular interesting when the formulation comprises a significant fraction of a silicone oil, comprises alkyl dimethicone copolymers, namely poly oxyalkylene modified dimethylpolysiloxanes.
  • the polyoxyalkylene group is often a POE or POP or a copolymer of POE and POP.
  • the copolymers often terminate in Cl to C22 alkyl groups, particularly C12 to C18. Suitable example comprises cetyl dimethicone copolymers available as Abil EM90TM or EM97TM from Th. Goldschmidt.
  • 5% to 25% of the emulsifier system is present in the dry blend. In additional aspects 10% to 20% of the emulsifier system is present in the dry blend
  • the dry blend comprises at least one emollient which effectively becomes all or part of the oil phase of any emulsion.
  • the emollient may be an oil which can be a hydrocarbonbased oil, i.e., an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals; a silicone oil, i.e., an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and preferably at least one Si-0 group; a fluoro oil, i.e., an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom; anon-fluoro oil, or a mixture thereof.
  • the dry blend comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based oil as the emollient.
  • the hydrocarbon-based oils may be of animal origin or of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides of fatty acids or fatty acid esters comprising from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, examples include, coconut oil, canola oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil; maize oil; soybean oil; cucumber oil; grape seed oil; sesame seed oil; hazelnut oil; apricot oil; macadamia oil; arara oil; castor oil; cocoa butter; almond oil; avocado oil; babassu oil; caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel; Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed oil sold under the tradename Jojoba Oil Golden by Desert Whale; Beta-carotene sold under the tradename Betatene 30% OLV by Cognis (BASF); Rosa Canina Fruit Oil sold under the tradename Rose
  • the emollient is a vegetable oil and/or a vegetable fat such as sunflower oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, and/or almond oil.
  • the hydrocarbon-based oils may be linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin.
  • the hydrocarbon-based oils may be synthetic ethers; synthetic esters; fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms; C12-C26 higher fatty acids; or mixtures thereof.
  • the dry blend mixtures disclosed herein may contain between 20% to 50% of an emollient. In other aspects the dry blend mixtures disclosed herein may contain between 30% to 50% of an emollient.
  • the term “blend” refers to a physical mixture of two or more substances.
  • the dry blend mixture is prepared by mixing, or blending, the emulsifier and porous starch together and then adding the emollient.
  • the emollient may be allowed to absorb onto the emulsifier and then mixing can be continued to create the dry blend.
  • the emollient will typically be a liquid at room temperature, but the mixing may also be performed at elevated temperature if desired to either keep the emollient or emulsifier in liquid form or if desired to manage the viscosity of the emollient to a desired level.
  • the mixing may be performed on any suitable mixing equipment adapted for dry mixing of ingredients. Such processes are well known in the art and readily available to the skilled person.
  • the ratio of porous starch to the emulsifier system in the dry blend is between 2: 1 and 5:1.
  • the present invention is an oil-in-water emulsion created from the dry mixture disclosed herein.
  • An emulsion may be defined as a mixture containing two immiscible liquids, in which one liquid is dispersed as droplets or globules throughout the other. The dispersed liquid is called the dispersed phase, while the other liquid is called the continuous phase.
  • the oil is the dispersed phase or oil phase
  • water is the continuous phase or aqueous phase.
  • Emulsions may be prepared by adding the dry mixture an aqueous phase and subjecting both to high shear mixing for a period of time.
  • the dry mixture may be blended with 3 to 5 times its weight of an aqueous phase to prepare an emulsion.
  • the emulsion may contain between 10% and 30% of the dry blend by weight and between 70% and 80% of the aqueous phase by weight.
  • the emulsion may contain between 15% and 25% of the dry blend by weight and between 75% and 85% of the aqueous phase by weight.
  • Such preparation of emulsions is well known to those skilled in the art of personal care formulations. During the creation of an emulsion other well-known personal care ingredients may be added to modify the texture, color, stability, and performance.
  • the emulsion can have good stability, with little or no separation between the aqueous phase and oil phase over an extended period of time (e.g., 2, 4, 8, or 12 weeks) when measured at room temperature and/or elevated storage temperatures (e.g., 45°C). Therefore, it may be used to make products (e.g., topical formulations) requiring a long shelf life.
  • extended period of time e.g. 2, 4, 8, or 12 weeks
  • elevated storage temperatures e.g. 45°C
  • the emulsion contains an aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase may comprise or consist of water, in particular a demineralized water; a floral water such as cornflower water; a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water; and/or a spring water.
  • demineralized water is used as the aqueous phase.
  • the emulsion also contains an oil phase dispersed in the aqueous phase.
  • the term “dispersion” refers to an oil phase forming droplets inside the aqueous phase.
  • the droplets may have any sizes and shapes.
  • the droplets are homogeneously distributed throughout the aqueous phase.
  • the nature of the oil phase of the emulsion is not critical.
  • the oil phase may thus consist of any fatty substance conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields; in particular the oil phase may comprise at least one oil, i.e., any fatty substance that is in substantially or completely liquid form at room temperature (20- 25°C) or elevated temperate of (40-70°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the amount of oil phase in the emulsion may be between 5% to 20%, or in some aspects, between 5% and 15%.
  • the ratio of porous starch to the emulsifier system in the dry blend is between 2: land 5:1.
  • the dry mixture or emulsion may optionally further comprise one or more further ingredients.
  • the further ingredient may include, without limitation, a preservative, salt, vitamin, emulsifier, texturizer, nutrient, micronutrient, sugar, protein, polysaccharide, polyol, glucose, sucrose, glycerol, sorbitol, pH adjusters, other emollients, dyes, pigments, skin actives, waxes or silicones.
  • the emulsion provided herein is useful in the manufacture of topical formulations such as personal care products or cosmetics.
  • topical formulations such as personal care products or cosmetics.
  • the inventors unexpectedly found that formulations comprising the dry blend disclosed herein have numerous desirable characteristics as explained further below.
  • the present invention is a topical formulation comprising an emulsion as described herein.
  • topical formulation refers to a formulation that may be applied directly to a part of the body.
  • formulation is used herein to denote compositions of various ingredients in various weight ranges, in accordance with the present invention.
  • formulations manufactured with the emulsions described herein are suitable for use on hair, scalp, nails and skin, for delivering cosmetic or actives to the skin or hair for providing cleansing, conditioning, moisturizing, minimizing or treating skin imperfections, reducing skin oiliness, providing fragrances to the hair or skin and the like.
  • “Personal care” means and comprises any cosmetic, hygienic, toiletry and topical care products including, without limitation, leave-on products (i.e. , products that are left on keratinous substrates after application); rinse-off products (i.e., products that are washed or rinsed from keratinous substrates during or within a few minutes of application); shampoos; hair curling and hair straightening products; hair style maintaining and hair conditioning products; lotions and creams for nails, hands, feet, face, scalp and/or body; hair dye; face and body makeup; nail care products; astringents; deodorants; antiperspirants; anti-acne; antiaging; depilatories; colognes and perfumes; skin protective creams and lotions (such as sunscreens); skin and body cleansers; skin conditioners; skin toners; skin firming compositions; skin tanning and lightening compositions; liquid soaps; bar soaps; bath products; and shaving products.
  • leave-on products i.e.
  • the texture of such personal care formulations is not limited and may be, without limitation, a liquid, gel, spray, emulsion (such as lotions and creams), shampoo, pomade, foam, tablet, stick (such as lip care products), makeup, among others, any of which can be applied to the skin or hair or hair and which typically are designed to remain in contact therewith until removed, such as by rinsing with water or washing with shampoo or soap.
  • Other forms could be gels that can be soft, stiff, or squeezable.
  • Sprays can be non-pressurized aerosols delivered from manually pumped finger-actuated sprayers or can be pressurized aerosols such as mousse, spray, or foam forming formulation, where a chemical or gaseous propellant is used.
  • the topical formulation comprising the emulsion disclosed herein may be a cream used for skincare applications.
  • Formulations prepared using the emulsion disclosed herein have a white or pale white color that is generally considered to be aesthetically appealing.
  • the formulations of the invention may be further processed to make a colored end product.
  • the white color is beneficial because it will show up the additional pigment without influencing the final color.
  • formulations prepared using the dry mixture disclosed herein have an acceptable oil content and good spreadability with less greasy residual feeling on the skin. This texture feels pleasant to touch and apply. Furthermore, the consistency is such that good product pick-up may be achieved. Good product pick-up means that sufficient product (i.e., not too much, and not too little) can be collected on the user’s finger.
  • UV blockers can be physical such as or chemical salts like ZnO or TiO2 or chemical (max authorized level indicated) such as Butyl Methoxy dibenzoylmethane (5%); Octocrylene (10%); Titanium dioxide (25%); Ethylhexyl Salicylate (5%); Ethylhexyl Methoxy cinnamate (10%); Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (10%); Emulsions of the present disclosure can be used with any type of UV blocker know in the art or mixtures of UV blockers.
  • dry ingredients such as texturizers, surfactants, humectants, colorants, favors, fragrances, and the like.
  • Example 1 Method for Example 1- The starch ingredients (A) and any additional emulsifiers or texturizers (B) were weighed into a plastic container with a lid. The lid was closed and the powdered were shaken for 1-3 minutes until completely mixed. The emollient (C) was poured onto the mixed starches and allowed to absorb over 10 minutes. The container was sealed once more and shaken again for 1-3 minutes to blend the oil into the starches. Any remaining lumps were broken up by stirring the mixture with a spatula. The dry blend was then allowed to stand for at least 10 minutes before use Example 2.
  • Example 2 Method of Example 2 - The dry powders from Example 1 were weighed into a beaker and the water added. The mixture was stirred with a spatula a few times over the course of 5-10 min. The mixture was then homogenized with a Silverson L5M-A for 5 minutes at 6000 rpm. The preservative was added and the mixture homogenized for an additional 3 min. The pH was adjusted to approximately 5.5 by addition of a small amount 50% citric acid solution.
  • Stability is evaluated visually by observing the stability of the emulsion over time.
  • the emulsion fails if the phases separate or begin to separate.
  • Major pooling of oil or water droplets on the surface or a significant change in the visual color or texture of the samples would also indicate failure of the emulsion.
  • viscosity could be monitored and significant decrease (>20%) would indicate failure of the emulsion.
  • Particle size distribution could also be measured and monitored over time to give an indication of stability.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne la production d'un mélange sous forme de pré-émulsion pour soins personnels, qui peut être mélangé de manière pratique avec de l'eau pour créer une émulsion. Plus précisément, l'utilisation d'une nouvelle combinaison d'amidons permet la fabrication d'un mélange sec contenant un émollient qui peut être facilement mélangé avec de l'eau et éventuellement d'autres ingrédients pour créer un produit émulsifié pour soins personnels.
PCT/US2022/078015 2021-10-14 2022-10-13 Mélange sous forme de pré-émulsion pour soins personnels WO2023064836A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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US63/262,509 2021-10-14

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Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2009103514A1 (fr) 2008-02-22 2009-08-27 Cargill, Incorporated Amidons prégélatinisés servant de matériaux de support pour composants liquides
WO2021191548A1 (fr) * 2020-03-23 2021-09-30 Roquette Freres Composition émulsifiante et texturante à base d'amidons et de gommes pour la cosmétique

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2009103514A1 (fr) 2008-02-22 2009-08-27 Cargill, Incorporated Amidons prégélatinisés servant de matériaux de support pour composants liquides
WO2021191548A1 (fr) * 2020-03-23 2021-09-30 Roquette Freres Composition émulsifiante et texturante à base d'amidons et de gommes pour la cosmétique

Non-Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
CHEN JIAHUI ET AL: "Preparation, characterization, physicochemical property and potential application of porous starch: A review", INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF BIOLOGICAL MACROMOLECULES, ELSEVIER BV, NL, vol. 148, 7 February 2020 (2020-02-07), pages 1169 - 1181, XP086077262, ISSN: 0141-8130, [retrieved on 20200207], DOI: 10.1016/J.IJBIOMAC.2020.02.055 *
LIU: "Functional Starch and Applications in Food", pages: 91 - 117

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