WO2024064875A1 - Remplacement de carbomère d'origine naturelle - Google Patents

Remplacement de carbomère d'origine naturelle Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2024064875A1
WO2024064875A1 PCT/US2023/074862 US2023074862W WO2024064875A1 WO 2024064875 A1 WO2024064875 A1 WO 2024064875A1 US 2023074862 W US2023074862 W US 2023074862W WO 2024064875 A1 WO2024064875 A1 WO 2024064875A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
carrageenan
starch
carrageenans
modified starch
oil
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PCT/US2023/074862
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English (en)
Inventor
Dominique Karine CLIO
Pauline DARCEL
Jean-Noel Ollagnier
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Cargill, Incorporated
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Publication of WO2024064875A1 publication Critical patent/WO2024064875A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/10—General cosmetic use
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/48—Thickener, Thickening system
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the replacement of carbomer in personal care products with a natural based solution that has a desirable texture and viscosity.
  • These personal care products contain a specific mixture of carrageenans and substituted starch to yield these desired properties.
  • Carbomer is a term used for a series of polymers primarily made from acrylic acid. Carbomers are white, fluffy powders but are primarily used to create gels in cosmetics and personal care products. Carbomers are thickening agents that help control the viscosity and flow of cosmetic products. They also help distribute and suspend insoluble solids into liquid, and prevent the oil and liquid parts of a solution from separating. They have the ability to absorb and retain water and can swell up to 1000 times their original volume when dispersed in water. Generally, this class of ingredients is used in gel-like formulations because it forms a colloidal, mucilage-like consistency when mixed in water.
  • Carbomers are large molecules created from repeated subunits that interestingly converts a liquid into an appealing gel texture. It usually has to be neutralized with a base such as sodium hydroxide for the thickening to occur and they create viscous clear gels that feel appealing and non-tacky on the skin. By adding carbomers to things like shampoos, conditioners, creams, and lotions, the formulations will appear more rich, smooth, and creamy and this ingredient is contained in a wide range of personal care products such as styling gel. facial moisturizer, sunscreen, shampoo, anti-aging treatment, eye cream, cleanser and scrubs. Carbomers are commonly listed as carbomer 934, carbomer 934 P, carbomer 941, carbopol 910, and carboxy vinyl polymer.
  • the present disclosure describes a unique combination of a tailored carrageenan blend and substituted starch that can be used together to create a naturally based replacement for carbomer.
  • the present invention discloses a topical formulation comprising a carrageenan component and a modified starch wherein the carrageenan component comprises: a) between 7 to 12 wt% kappa type carrageenan, b) between 15 to 25 wt% iota type carrageenan, c) between 60 to 80 wt% lambda type carrageenan; and wherein the carrageenan component comprises between 0.2 and 3 wt% of the topical formulation and modified starch comprises between 0.2 and 3 wt% of the topical formulation.
  • the present invention relates to a texturizing composition
  • a texturizing composition comprising a carrageenan component and a modified starch
  • the carrageenan component comprises: a) between 7 to 12 wt% kappa type carrageenan, b) between 15 to 25 wt% iota type carrageenan, c) between 60 to 80 wt% lambda type carrageenan; and wherein the carrageenan component comprises between 0.2 and 3 wt% of the topical formulation and the modified starch comprises between 0.2 and 3 wt% of the topical formulation and wherein the carrageenan component and modified starch component compnse greater than 50% by weight of the composition.
  • Carrageenans are a family of natural linear sulphated polysaccharides that are extracted from red edible seaweed.
  • the most well-known and still most important red seaweed used for manufacturing of carrageenan is Chondrus crlspus (Irish moss) which is a dark red parsley-like plant that grows attached to the rocks.
  • Carrageenans are large, highly flexible molecules that form curling helical structures in solutions or mixtures. This gives them the ability to form a variety of different gels at room temperature and they are are widely used in the food industry, for their gelling, thickening, and stabilizing properties, however, they have also gained interest in many other applications because of these properties. They are known to be effective ingredients in many personal care applications.
  • Kappa forms strong, rigid gels in the presence of cations such as sodium, potassium, and calcium ions, and reacts with dairy proteins. It is sourced mainly from Kappaphycus alvarezii. Iota forms soft gels in the presence of calcium ions. It is produced mainly from Eucheuma denticulatum; and Lambda does not gel, and is often used to thicken dairy products.
  • the basic structure of carrageenans is a linear polysaccharide made up of a repeating disaccharide sequence of [LD-galactopyranose linked through positions 1,3 (A residues) and a-D-galactopyranose residues linked through positions 1,4 (B residues).
  • the regular backbone structure of the basic structure of carrageenans is disrupted by a more or less ordered distribution of sulphate groups. Some of the galactose units have attached sulfate groups, while others are unsulfated.
  • the three main types (iota, kappa and lambda) of carrageenan molecules differ by (1) the types of linkages between the galactose units, and (2) the point of attachment and number of the sulfate groups on each of the galactose units. These apparently small differences in chemical constitution and structure make major differences in the properties of each type of molecule.
  • All the gelling types of carrageenan which include the kappa type (theoretically having 1 sulphate group per repeating unit; the most naturally abundant type of carrageenan molecule) and the iota type (theoretically having 2 sulphate groups per repeating unit; the least naturally abundant type of carrageenan molecule) all contain a 3,6-anhydro bridge on the B unit which forces the sugar to flip from a 4-C-l conformation to a l-C-4 conformation and can then form cross-link networks and gels.
  • seaweed species contains relatively pure carrageenan fractions.
  • Kappaphycus Alvarezii contains largely kappa carrageenan and mu carrageenan which may be converted to kappa carrageenan by alkali treatment.
  • Eucheuma Denticulatum contains a similarly high level of iota carrageenan with some nu carrageenan precursor.
  • Other seaweeds are more mixed in their carrageenan content.
  • Furcellaran contains a strong gelling type carrageenan which is a mix of kappa carrageenan and P carrageenan in a roughly 3:2 ratio.
  • seaweed types such as Chondrus crispus and Gigartina types contain not only a mix of kappa and lambda type carrageenans but also a type of carrageenan polymer that is essentially a block copolymer of different carrageenan types. This gives the carrageenan made from Gigartina or Chondrus weed species quite different properties from those made from the Eucheuma type species from Southeast Asia.
  • Carrageenan isolated from natural seaweed sources will contain long polymers substituted with a vary ing number of sulphate structures. Carrageenan will not be purely of one type of repeating units. For that reason, an isolated carrageenan can be more or less of one "type’’ based on the degree of sulphate substitution. A sample of carrageenan can be analyzed by methods known in the art to determine what proportion of the polymers’ monomeric residues are of what type.
  • Kappa Type refers to a form of carrageenan that contains greater than 80% of its monomeric residues in the kappa form. In some aspects, kappa type will contain greater than 85% of its monomeric residues in the kappa form. In some aspects, kappa type will contain between 80% and 95% its monomeric residues in the kappa form.
  • Iota Type refers to a form of carrageenan that contains greater than 80% of its monomeric residues in the iota form. In some aspects, iota type will contain greater than 85% of its monomeric residues in the iota form. In some aspects, iota type will contain between 80% and 95% its monomeric residues in the iota form.
  • Lambda Type refers to a form of carrageenan that contains greater than 20% of its monomeric residues in the lambda form. In some aspects, lambda t pe will contain greater than 24 % of its monomeric residues in the lambda form. In some aspects, lambda type will contain between 15% and 30% its monomeric residues in the lambda form.
  • carrageenans are commercially available from a variety of commercial producers.
  • the carrageenans utilized in the present disclosure are commercially available from Cargill incorporated under the trade designations (VPC 614 kappa type, VPC 430 lambda type, and VPC 508 iota type).
  • VPC 614 kappa type is a natural product isolated from cultivated or harvest seaweed, the exact content of any carrageenan extract will vary' slightly depending on time of harvest or season.
  • Starch is a polymeric carbohydrate consisting of a large number of glucose units joined by glycosidic bonds. This polysaccharide is produced by most green plants as energy' storage. It is the most common carbohydrate in human diets and is contained in large amounts in staple foods. Starches useful in the present disclosure can come from any plant source including but not limited to: potatoes, wheat, maize (com), rice, tapioca, quinoa, cassava, and the like. Pure starch is a white, tasteless and odorless powder that is insoluble in cold water or alcohol. It consists of two types of molecules: the linear and helical amylose and the branched amylopectin.
  • starch generally contains 20 to 25% amylose and 75 to 80% amylopectin by weight. Waxy com starches contain over 99% amylopectin. When it is isolated directly from the plant source it is most often referred to as “native starch”. Native starch requires heat to thicken or gelatinize. When a starch is pre-cooked, it can then be used to thicken instantly in cold water. This is referred to as a pregelatinized starch.
  • Native starch can be hydrolyzed into simpler carbohydrates by temperature, acids, various enzy mes, or a combination of the three.
  • the resulting fragments are known as dextrins or hydrolyzed starch.
  • the extent of conversion is t pically quantified by dextrose equivalent (DE), which is roughly the fraction of the glycosidic bonds in starch that have been broken.
  • DE dextrose equivalent
  • maltodextrin is a lightly’ hydrolyzed (DE 1-20) starch product used as a bland-tasting filler and thickener.
  • Various glucose syrups (DE 30-70), also called com syrups in the US, are a type of hydrolyzed starch that are viscous solutions used as sweeteners and thickeners in many kinds of processed foods.
  • Dextrose (DE 100), commercial glucose, is prepared by the complete hydrolysis of starch.
  • a modified starch has a structure that has been altered from its native state, resulting in modification of one or more of its chemical or physical properties.
  • Starches may' be modified, for example, by enzy mes, oxidation or, substitution with various compounds.
  • starches can be modified to increase stability' against heat, acids, or freezing, improve texture, increase or decrease viscosity, increase or decrease gelatinization times, and/or increase or decrease solubility', among others.
  • Modified starches may be partially or completely degraded into shorter chains or glucose molecules.
  • Amylopectin may be debranched.
  • modified starches are cross-linked for example to improve stability. Starches that are modified by substitution have a different chemical composition.
  • the base-starch used as the base material for obtaining the modified-starch utilized in the present invention can be sourced from any starch containing sources (hereinafter base material) including for example com, wheat, potato, tapioca, barley, pea, dent com, waxy maize, sago, rice, sorghum and high amylose starch, i.e., starch having at least 45% and more particularly at least 65% amylose content, such as high amylose com.
  • Starch flours may also be used.
  • the base-starch may be chemically converted, enzymatically converted, or converted by heat treatment or by physical treatment.
  • the term '‘chemically converted” or “chemical conversion” include, but is not limited to crosslinking, modification with blocking groups to inhibit retrogradation, modification by the addition of lipophilic groups, acetylated starches, hydroxyethylated and hydroxypropylated starches, inorganically esterified starches, cationic, anionic and oxidized starches, zwitterionic starches and combinations thereof.
  • heat treatment includes for example pre-gelatinization.
  • the base-starch may have a granular state, which is preferred, or a non-granular state, i.e., the granular state of the starch has been disrupted by physical, thermal, chemical or enzymatic treatment.
  • Preferred base materials include converted or non-converted starches originating from com, high amylose com, wheat, potato, tapioca, waxy maize, sago or rice.
  • base materials to manufacture the basestarches are those chosen from the group consisting of com starch, wheat starch and potato starch.
  • materials are com starch and wheat starch.
  • the base-starch is chosen from the group consisting of maltodextrins; pyrodextrins; dextrins such as those prepared by hydrolytic action of acid and/or heat or by the action of enzymes; degraded starches such as for example fluidity or thin boiled starches prepared for example by enzyme conversion, thermal treatment or acid hydrolysis; oxidized starches prepared by treatment with oxidants such as sodium hypochlorite, peroxides and persulfates; and derivatized starches such as cationic, anionic, amphoteric, non-ionic and cross-linked.
  • Any base material can be used for producing these base-starches, such as for example those mentioned above.
  • the base-starch is chosen from the group consisting of maltodextrins, dextrins, thin boiled starches and oxidized starches, said base-starch being produced from a base material chosen from the group consisting of non-converted com starch, non-converted wheat starch and non-converted potato starch.
  • the base-starch is chosen from the group consisting of maltodextrins, dextrins, thin boiled starches, and oxidized starches, said base-starch being produced from a base material those chosen from the group consisting of non-converted com starch and non-converted wheat starch.
  • a hydroxypropylated starch is another example of a modified starch that has been functionalized by hydroxypropylation.
  • Such hydroxypropylated starches are well known in the art and are commercially available from a variety of sources. They are "E-coded” under the designation 1400 in the International System for Food Additives (INS).
  • the hydroxypropylated starches may be prepared from waxy maize starch.
  • hydroxypropylated starches of the present invention include C*HiFormTM 12748 commercially available from Cargill Incorporated.
  • the modified starch is a hydroxy ethylated or hydroxypropylated starch. In some aspects the modified starch is a hydroxypropylated starch phosphate.
  • the modified starch may be a mixture of two or more modified starches.
  • the present disclosure also provides a texturizing composition comprising a carrageenan component and a modified starch blend.
  • a texturizing composition comprising a carrageenan component and a modified starch blend.
  • the term "blend” refers to a physical mixture of two or more substances.
  • An alternative aspect of the present invention comprises a blend of carrageenans and modified starches useful for preparations of the emulsions and gels described herein.
  • the emulsions of the present invention are manufactured using a blend comprising or consisting of carrageenans and modified starch.
  • Modified starch can be present in the blend in an amount of 5-95% and the carrageenans can be present in an amount of 5-95%.
  • the modified starch is present in an amount of 50- 75% in the blend.
  • carrageenans are present in the blend in an amount of 25-50%.
  • the modified starch is present in an amount of 25-75% in the blend and the carrageenans are present in the blend in an amount of 25-75%.
  • the modified starch and the carrageenans are present in the blend in a ratio of 1:3 to 3: 1.
  • the texturizing composition may comprise greater than 50% by weight of the modified starch and the carrageenans blend. In some aspects is may comprise greater than 75% by weight or between 75% and 95% by weight of the blend.
  • the carrageenan starch blend can additionally contain other dry ingredients if desired such at texturizers. colorants, favors, fragrances, preservatives, and the like.
  • the blend can be prepared according to blending methods for dry ingredients that are known in the art. Use of a standard mixing equipment for a sufficient time will easily prepare the blends described herein.
  • the carrageenan modified starch blend may be included in the final personal care formulation in an effective amount to create the viscosity and texture required by the particular application. In some aspects the blend is present at between 1 and 10%. In other aspects the blend is present at between 2 and 5%.
  • the present invention is the use of carrageenan mixtures disclosed herein in various personal care products.
  • the personal care composition may be prepared by creating an aqueous phase of predominately w ater and adding the carrageenans with mixing. The mixing is often done at elevated temperature (approximately 75°C) to facilitate complete incorporation and solubilization.
  • elevated temperature approximately 75°C
  • the type of mixing is not critical and typical mixing equipment used in the art may be employed with the present compositions. In order facilitate quicker and mor efficient mixing medium or high shear equipment is desirable.
  • the carrageenans may be added as a premix or individually. Additional ingredients may then be added to the formulation and pH adjusted as desired. The mixture is cooled with or without stirring to yield the final personal care composition.
  • the personal care composition my contain other active or inactive ingredients, humectants, or emollients. Active ingredients are those having a physiological effect on the skin or hair.
  • the composition may be an emulsion containing emollients, colorants, active ingredients, and/or other texturizers.
  • pH may be adjusted to approximately 5.5 to 6.0 by addition of an acid such as citric acid.
  • Additional salts or electrolytes are added to the mixture as preservatives and/or to manage the gelling properties of the carrageenans.
  • the amount of salts or electrolytes may be varied according to the texture sought to be achieved. Typically, the amount of salts or electrolytes is approximately 0.25% to 1 % of the composition. In some aspects, it is approximately 0.5%.
  • the mixture may then be cooled. Typically, high shear mixing is avoided after the addition salts or electrolytes and upon cooling to preserve the final product texture.
  • the amount of carrageenans utilized the personal care formulation can be varied by the skilled artisan to achieve the desired texture. In some aspects the amount of carrageenans is between 0.2% and 3%. In other aspects the amount is between 0.5% and 3%. In another aspect the percentage of carrageenans in the personal care formula is between 1.0% and 2.5%.
  • the modified starch may be added to the personal care formulation to create the carbomer like texture. The modified starch maybe added after the carrageenans have been added or at the same time or as a blend with the carrageenans. In some aspects the amount of modified starch is between 0.2% and 3%. In other aspects the amount is between 0.5% and 2.5%. In another aspect the percentage of carrageenans in the personal care formula is between 1.0% and 2.5%.
  • the topical formulation may be comprised of an emulsion which contains an aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase may comprise or consist of water, in particular a demineralized water; a floral water such as cornflower water; a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water; and/or a spring water.
  • demineralized water, floral water, or a combination of both is used as the aqueous phase utilized by the present invention.
  • the amount of the aqueous phase in the topical formulation may be between 50 wt% to 99.5 wt%. In some aspects the amount of the aqueous phase in the topical formulation may be between 90 wt% to 98 wt%.
  • the aqueous phase may optionally contain other soluble components such as an alcohol or polyol. In some aspects the aqueous phase may contain glycerol. In some aspects the topical formulation contains 1 to 4 wt% glycerol.
  • the personal care formulation may be an emulsion.
  • An emulsion may be defined as a mixture containing two immiscible liquids, in which one liquid is dispersed as droplets or globules throughout the other. The dispersed liquid is called the dispersed phase, while the other liquid is called the continuous phase.
  • the oil is the dispersed phase or oil phase
  • water is the continuous phase or aqueous phase.
  • the topical formulation may also contain an oil phase dispersed in the aqueous phase.
  • the term '‘dispersion’’ refers to an oil phase forming droplets inside the aqueous phase.
  • the droplets may have any sizes and shapes.
  • the droplets are homogeneously distributed throughout the aqueous phase.
  • the nature of the oil phase of the emulsion is not critical.
  • the oil phase may thus consist of any fatty substance conventionally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields; in particular the oil phase may comprise at least one oil. i.e., any fatty substance that is in substantially or completely liquid form at room temperature (20-25°C) or elevated temperate of (40-70°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the preferred oil phase(s) comprises at least one oil which can be a hydrocarbonbased oil, i.e. an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals; a silicone oil, i.e., an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and preferably at least one Si-0 group; a fluoro oil, i.e., an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom; a non-fluoro oil, or a mixture thereof.
  • a hydrocarbonbased oil i.e. an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals
  • a silicone oil i.e., an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and preferably at least one Si-0 group
  • a fluoro oil i.e., an oil comprising at least one flu
  • the hydrocarbon-based oils may be of animal origin or of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, examples include, coconut oil, canola oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil; maize oil; soybean oil; cucumber oil; grape seed oil; sesame seed oil; hazelnut oil; apricot oil; macadamia oil; arara oil; castor oil; cocoa butter; almond oil; avocado oil; babassu oil; capry lie/ capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel; Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed oil sold under the tradename Jojoba Oil Golden by Desert Whale; Beta-carotene sold under the tradename Betatene 30% OLV by Cognis (BASF); Rosa Canina Fruit Oil sold under the tradename Rosehip Seed Oil by Nestle World Trade Co
  • the hydrocarbon-based oils may be linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin.
  • the hydrocarbon-based oils may be synthetic ethers; synthetic esters; fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms; C12-C22 higher fatty' acids; or mixtures thereof.
  • the personal care composition may further comprise at least one further ingredient.
  • the further ingredient may include, without limitation, a preservative, salt, vitamin, emulsifier, texturizer, nutrient, micronutrient, sugar, protein, polysaccharide, polyol, glucose, sucrose, glycerol, sorbitol, pH adjusters, emollients, dyes, pigments, skin actives, waxes or silicones.
  • Topical formulation may include, without limitation, a preservative, salt, vitamin, emulsifier, texturizer, nutrient, micronutrient, sugar, protein, polysaccharide, polyol, glucose, sucrose, glycerol, sorbitol, pH adjusters, emollients, dyes, pigments, skin actives, waxes or silicones.
  • compositions comprising a combination of specific ratio of ratios of carrageenans, and a modified starch have numerous desirable characteristics as explained further below.
  • the present invention is a topical formulation comprising an emulsion as described herein.
  • topical formulation refers to a formulation that may be applied directly to a part of the body.
  • formulation is used herein to denote compositions of various ingredients in various weight ranges, in accordance with the present invention.
  • formulations manufactured with the ingredients described herein are suitable for use on hair, scalp, nails and skin, for delivering cosmetic or actives to the skin or hair for providing cleansing, conditioning, moisturizing, minimizing or treating skin imperfections, reducing skin oiliness, providing fragrances to the hair or skin and the like.
  • “Personal care” means and comprises any cosmetic, hygienic, toiletry and topical care products including, without limitation, leave-on products (i.e., products that are left on keratinous substrates after application); rinse-off products (i.e., products that are washed or rinsed from keratinous substrates during or within a few minutes of application); shampoos; hair curling and hair straightening products; hair style maintaining and hair conditioning products; lotions and creams for nails, hands, feet, face, scalp and/or body; hair dye; face and body makeup; nail care products; astringents; deodorants; antiperspirants; anti-acne; antiaging; depilatories; colognes and perfumes; skin protective creams and lotions (such as sunscreens); skin and body cleansers; skin conditioners; skin toners; skin firming compositions; skin tanning and lightening compositions; liquid soaps; bar soaps; bath products; shaving products; and oral hygiene products (such as toothpastes,
  • the texture of such personal care formulations is not limited and may be, without limitation, a liquid, gel, spray, emulsion (such as lotions and creams), shampoo, pomade, foam, tablet, stick (such as lip care products), makeup, suppositories, among others, any of which can be applied to the skin or hair or hale and which typically are designed to remain in contact therewith until removed, such as by rinsing with water or washing with shampoo or soap.
  • Other forms could be gels that can be soft, stiff, or squeezable.
  • Sprays can be non-pressurized aerosols delivered from manually pumped finger-actuated sprayers or can be pressurized aerosols such as mousse, spray, or foam forming formulation, where a chemical or gaseous propellant is used.
  • the topical formulation comprising the emulsion disclosed herein may be a serum or cream.
  • the serum or cream may comprise specific ratio of ratios of lambda, kappa, and iota carrageenan in combination with a modified starch.
  • Formulations prepared using the ingredients disclosed herein have a clear colorless or light white color that is generally considered to be aesthetically appealing.
  • the formulations of the invention may be further processed to make a colored end product. In such cases, the lack of color is beneficial because it will show up the additional pigment without influencing the final color.
  • formulations prepared using the ingredients of the present invention have a good spreadability with pleasant residual feeling on the skin.
  • the use of the ingredients of the present invention improves the texture and body of personal care products. This texture feels pleasant to touch and to apply. Furthermore, the consistency is such that good product pick-up may be achieved. Good product pick-up means that sufficient product (i.e., not too much, and not too little) can be collected on the user’s finger.
  • the ingredients of the present disclosure are particularly useful in sunscreen applications.
  • Sunscreens contain ingredients intended to block UV radiation from reaching the skin.
  • UV blockers can be physical such as or chemical salts like ZnO or TiO2 or chemical (max authorized level indicated) such as Butyl Methoxy dibenzoylmethane (5%); Octocrylene (10%); Titanium dioxide (25%); Ethylhexyl Salicylate (5%); Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (10%); Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (10%); Emulsions of the present disclosure can be used with any type of UV blocker know in the art or mixtures of UV blockers.
  • Stability is evaluated visually by observing the stability of the personal care formulation over time.
  • the formulation fails if the phases separate or begin to separate.
  • Major pooling of oil or water droplets on the surface or a significant change in the visual color or texture of the samples would also indicate failure of the formulation.
  • viscosity 7 could be rechecked and significant decrease (>20%) would indicate failure of the formulation.
  • the carrageenan and modified starch containing formulations disclosed herein have good stability, with little or no breakdown or separation between phases over an extended period of time (e.g., 4, 8, or 12 weeks) when measured at room temperature and at 45°C. Therefore, it may be used to make products (e.g., topical formulations) requiring a long shelf life.
  • Step 1 The aqueous phase of demineralized water was prepared and heated to approximately 70°C.
  • Step 2 Carrageenans and HP starch were combined and added slowly while mixing was continued and after addition the solution mixed for 10 minutes with a UltraTurrax set at 5000 rpms.
  • Step 3 the aqueous EUXYL solution was added and stirring continued until a homogenous mixture obtained.
  • the pH was adjusted to between 5.0 and 5.5 by addition of 50% citric acid solution.
  • Step 1 The aqueous phase of demineralized water was prepared and heated to approximately 70°C.
  • Step 2 Carrageenans were added slowly while mixing was continued and after addition the solution mixed for 10 minutes with a UltraTurrax set at 5000 rpms.
  • Step 3 the mixture was cooled to approximately 40°C and the coco-glucoside was added and stirred for 3 minutes with a UltraTurrax set at 5000 rpms.
  • Step 4 the Caprylic capric triglyceride and starch were combined and added in three portions under stirring with a Silverson L5M-A mixer at 4000 rpm 5 minutes in total.
  • Step 5 the aqueous potassium sorbate/sodium benzoate solution was added and stirring continued until a homogenous mixture obtained.
  • the pH was adjusted to between 5.0 and 5.5 by addition of 50% citric acid solution.
  • the resulting product was a smooth creamy and jelly texture with a freshness and lightness when applied to the skin surprisingly similar to the texture of carbomer containing formulations.
  • Step 1 The aqueous phase of demineralized water was prepared and heated to approximately 70°C.
  • Step 2 Carrageenans were added slowly while mixing was continued and after addition the solution mixed for 10 minutes with a UltraTurrax set at 5000 rpms.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne le remplacement du carbomère contenu dans des produits de soins personnels par une solution d'origine naturelle qui a une rhéologie, une texture et une viscosité souhaitables. Ces produits de soins personnels contiennent un mélange spécifique de carraghénanes (y compris le carraghénane iota, lamda et kappa) et d'un amidon substitué permettant d'obtneir ces propriétés souhaitées. La présente invention concerne également un mélange de carraghénanes et d'un amidon modifié (en particulier d'amidon hydroxypropylé) en tant que composition de texturation.
PCT/US2023/074862 2022-09-23 2023-09-22 Remplacement de carbomère d'origine naturelle WO2024064875A1 (fr)

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WO2006091101A2 (fr) * 2005-02-24 2006-08-31 Csm Nederland B.V. Gelation de polysaccharides anioniques au moyen d'hydrolysats de proteines
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WO2012144789A2 (fr) * 2011-04-20 2012-10-26 주식회사 서흥캅셀 Composition d'enveloppe de capsule molle non animale présentant une désintégration et une dureté de l'enveloppe améliorées
WO2014152098A1 (fr) * 2013-03-15 2014-09-25 Banner Pharmacaps Inc. Capsules entériques molles ne contenant pas de gélatine
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* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2001091721A2 (fr) * 2000-06-01 2001-12-06 A.E. Staley Manufacturing Co. Amidon modifie utilise pour remplacer la gelatine dans des films et des capsules gelatineuses molles
US20050019295A1 (en) * 2003-04-14 2005-01-27 Fmc Corporation Homogeneous, thermoreversible low viscosity polymannan gum films and soft capsules made therefrom
WO2005004840A2 (fr) * 2003-06-30 2005-01-20 Banner Pharmacaps, Inc. Film non gelatineux, procede et appareil de production associes
WO2006091101A2 (fr) * 2005-02-24 2006-08-31 Csm Nederland B.V. Gelation de polysaccharides anioniques au moyen d'hydrolysats de proteines
RU2342844C1 (ru) * 2007-03-16 2009-01-10 Открытое акционерное общество "АРОМАРОС-М" (ОАО "АРОМАРОС-М") Пищевой влагоудерживающий эмульгатор-стабилизатор
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EP2700415A2 (fr) * 2011-04-20 2014-02-26 Suheung Capsule Co.,ltd. Composition d'enveloppe de capsule molle non animale présentant une désintégration et une dureté de l'enveloppe améliorées
WO2014152098A1 (fr) * 2013-03-15 2014-09-25 Banner Pharmacaps Inc. Capsules entériques molles ne contenant pas de gélatine
WO2020128253A1 (fr) * 2018-12-17 2020-06-25 Roquette Freres Composition filmogène à base d'amidon de légumineuse à usage cosmétique

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