WO2020127766A1 - Dispositif aérosol contenant une composition cosmétique hydroalcoolique - Google Patents

Dispositif aérosol contenant une composition cosmétique hydroalcoolique Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2020127766A1
WO2020127766A1 PCT/EP2019/086351 EP2019086351W WO2020127766A1 WO 2020127766 A1 WO2020127766 A1 WO 2020127766A1 EP 2019086351 W EP2019086351 W EP 2019086351W WO 2020127766 A1 WO2020127766 A1 WO 2020127766A1
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weight
mixtures
aerosol device
chosen
alkyl
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PCT/EP2019/086351
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English (en)
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Agathe BRANCHE
Audrey Gilles
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2020127766A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020127766A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0279—Porous; Hollow
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair

Definitions

  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising a step of applying to said keratin fibres said cosmetic composition sprayed from said aerosol device.
  • the dry shampoos available on the market have a tendency to leave a white deposit and to dull the head of hair. Furthermore, they leave a dry feel on the hair. These effects are unpleasant for consumers.
  • styling mousses applied to wet keratin fibres in order to fix the hairstyle, to give it definition and to provide it with hold over time.
  • an aerosol device containing a cosmetic composition comprising one or more anionic surfactants, one or more powders and/or fixing polymers, one or more non-ionic surfactants, one or more polysaccharides, and also one or more organic solvents and water makes it possible to achieve the objectives set out above. Indeed, dispensing this composition using an aerosol device makes it possible to form an aqueous-alcoholic foam which has a light texture.
  • the cosmetic composition of the invention also confers a feeling of freshness and good styling properties, in particular in terms of volume, by giving the keratin fibres body and better lifting of the roots.
  • non-ionic surfactant(s) chosen from (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides and C8-C30 polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols,
  • a subject of the invention is also the use of a cosmetic composition sprayed from an aerosol device as defined above, for cleansing and/or shaping keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • the cosmetic composition contained in the aerosol device according to the present invention comprises one or more anionic surfactant(s) (a).
  • anionic surfactant means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
  • fatty acids in particular C 6 -C3 0 , preferably C8-C24, better still C12-C2 0 , fatty acids, and salts thereof;
  • acylsarcosinates notably of C6-C24 or even C12-C20, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • - X denoting a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion, an ion derived from an alkali metal or an alkaline-earth metal or an ion derived from an organic amine, preferably a hydrogen atom, and
  • R denoting a linear or branched alkyl group of 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • R denotes a linear or branched alkyl group of 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably of 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
  • (C 6 -C3o)acyl sarcosinates of formula (I) that may be used in the present composition, mention may be made of palmitoyl sarcosinates, stearoyl sarcosinates, lauroyl sarcosinates and cocoyl sarcosinates.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) of sarcosinate type are advantageously chosen from stearoyl sarcosine, myristoyl sarcosine, and mixtures thereof.
  • carboxylic surfactants mention may also be made of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those including from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds sold by the company Kao under the Akypo names.
  • polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (II):
  • - A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.
  • polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido) ether carboxylic acids that are particularly preferred are those of formula (II) in which:
  • - Ri denotes a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical,
  • - A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom
  • alkylsulfonates alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a-olefm sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds;
  • the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • alkyl sulfates alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and the salts of these compounds;
  • the alkyl groups of these compounds including from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, notably from 12 to 28, even better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being (poly)oxyalkylenated, especially (poly)oxyethylenated, and then preferably including from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 1 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • alkyl ether sulfates notably C 6 -C24 or even C12-C2 0 alkyl ether sulfates, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
  • amino alcohol salts examples include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2- methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-l, 3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
  • the anionic surfactant(s) (a) are chosen from fatty acids, in particular C6-C30, preferably C8-C24, better still C12-C20, fatty acids, salts thereof and mixtures thereof, preferably from stearic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, salts thereof and mixtures thereof.
  • the total content of the anionic surfactant(s) (a) ranges from
  • 0.1 to 20% by weight preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition contained in the aerosol device according to the invention also comprises one or more compounds (b) chosen from powders, fixing polymer(s) and mixtures thereof.
  • the compound(s) (b) are chosen from powders.
  • the powders may in particular be chosen from fillers, pigments, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the invention may in particular contain one or more styling powder(s).
  • the term "styling powder” means a powder which has a capacity for shaping the head of hair or for the durability of this shaping.
  • the capacity for shaping or ensuring shaping durability of the powder may especially be due to its chemical nature and/or its geometrical form and/or its arrangement configuration during deposition onto the keratin fibre. Specifically, the irregularities created at the surface of the hair promote the inter-attachment of the fibres.
  • the powder may be of any form such as lamellar, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, rhombohedric or tetragonal). In a preferred embodiment, the powders are not spherical.
  • the number-average size of the powder may range from 0.001 to 50 pm, better still from 0.002 to 40 pm and even more preferentially from 0.003 to 35 pm.
  • This number-average size corresponds to the size measured from the statistical distribution of the particle sizes for half of the total number of the particles. This size is referred to as the D50.
  • their number-average size may be determined in the form of a mean of the longest or shortest diameter or of the thickness.
  • Said powder(s) according to the invention may be mineral or organic, preferably mineral.
  • the cosmetic composition contained in the aerosol device according to the present invention comprises one or more powders, at least one of which is chosen from fillers and mixtures thereof.
  • the filler is preferably a styling powder.
  • the cosmetic composition contained in the aerosol device according to the present invention comprises one or more powders, at least one of which is chosen from pigments and mixtures thereof.
  • the cosmetic composition comprises at least one pigment.
  • pigment means organic or mineral, white or coloured particles of any form, which are insoluble in the physiological medium and which give the composition a colour.
  • mineral encompasses natural or synthetic chemical compounds that are inorganic. Mineral substances are mainly in a crystalline form.
  • mineral or inorganic powders examples include:
  • - fillers such as metal carbonates, oxides and sulfates such as those of alkaline- earth metals, aluminium, gallium and indium; silicates; modified or unmodified silicas; sericite, synthetic fluorophlogopite, talc; natural or synthetic mica, notably white mica, gold mica, red mica, black mica and mica-lithium oxide; calcium phosphate, silicic acid, silicic anhydride, silicon carbide, metal salts of tungstic acid, magnesium aluminate, bentonite, zeolites, smectite, hydroxyapatite, ceramic powder, boron nitride and glass or ceramic microcapsules;
  • - white pigments such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium oxide and cerium oxide
  • - coloured pigments such as red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, inorganic blue pigments, carbon black, lower titanium oxides, manganese violet, cobalt violet, and metal powders such as aluminium powder and copper powder;
  • - nacreous pigments such as bismuth oxychloride, mica/titanium, essence of pearl, powder prepared by coating synthetic mica with titanium dioxide, powder prepared by coating silica flakes with titanium dioxide, which is available under the brand name Metashine from Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd, powder prepared by coating alumina flakes with tin oxide and titanium dioxide, powder prepared by coating aluminium flakes with titanium dioxide, powder prepared by coating copper flakes with silica, sold by the company Eckert Inc. USA, powder prepared by coating bronze flakes with silica, and powder prepared by coating aluminium flakes with silica;
  • powder prepared by coating synthetic mica with titanium dioxide powder prepared by coating silica flakes with titanium dioxide, which is available under the brand name Metashine from Nippon Sheet Glass Co., Ltd, powder prepared by coating alumina flakes with tin oxide and titanium dioxide, powder prepared by coating aluminium flakes with titanium dioxide, powder prepared by coating copper flakes with silica, sold by the company Eckert Inc. USA, powder prepared by
  • ultrafme powder having a mean particle size of less than 0.1 pm, such as ultrafme titanium dioxide, ultrafme zinc oxide, ultrafme iron oxide, and ultrafme cerium oxide;
  • organic powders are wool powder, polyamide powder (Nylon ® or Orgasol ® from Arkema), polyester powder, polyethylene powder, polypropylene powder, polystyrene powder, polyurethane powder, benzoguanamine powder, polymethyl benzoguanamine powder, tetrafluoroethylene powder, poly(methyl methacrylate) powder, cellulose powder, silk powder, silicone powder, silicone rubber powder, powders of synthetic resins such as a sty rene/acry late copolymer, a divinylbenzene/styrene copolymer, a vinyl resin, a urea resin, a phenolic resin, a fluoro resin, tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon ® ) polymers, a silicone resin, an acrylic resin, a melamine resin, an epoxy resin, and a polycarbonate resin, hollow polymer microspheres, such as those of poly(vinylidene chloride)/acrylonitrile,
  • the doped or undoped composite powder may also be suitable as base powder intended to undergo a surface treatment.
  • examples of the latter include the powder prepared by coating inorganic dye pigments such as red iron oxide with silicic anhydride, powders prepared by coating Nylon with white pigments and powders prepared by coating fillers with ultrafme white pigments.
  • the mineral powder(s) according to the invention may optionally be surface- modified with organic compounds. More preferentially, the powder is a mineral powder constituted of one or more water-insoluble mineral compounds.
  • water-insoluble refers to a compound of which the solubility at spontaneous pH in water at 25°C and at atmospheric pressure is less than 0.1%.
  • Examples that may more particularly be mentioned include the carbonates, oxides and sulfates of alkaline-earth metals such as beryllium, magnesium, calcium, strontium, barium and radium, better still magnesium and calcium; the oxides, sulfates and carbonates of aluminium, gallium and indium; silicates such as kaolinite or kaolins (natural silicates containing kaolinite), silicates containing magnesium, particularly those containing an amount of magnesium of greater than 10% by weight (on a dry basis) expressed as magnesium oxide, such as Li-Mg-Na silicates, for instance Laponite XLG, provided by the company Rockwood; modified or unmodified silicas, better still modified silicas; mica; talc; and mixtures thereof.
  • alkaline-earth metals such as beryllium, magnesium, calcium, strontium, barium and radium, better still magnesium and calcium
  • modified silicas it is preferred to use surface-treated silicas such as hydrophobic silicas, for instance hydrophobic fumed silica of nanometric size and surface-treated with hexamethyldisilazane, such as the silica sold under the trade name Aerosil R812S or Aerosil R972 by the company Evonik, or HDK HI 15 by the company Wacker, or the hydrophobic fumed silica surface-treated with dimethylsilane.
  • hydrophobic silicas for instance hydrophobic fumed silica of nanometric size and surface-treated with hexamethyldisilazane, such as the silica sold under the trade name Aerosil R812S or Aerosil R972 by the company Evonik, or HDK HI 15 by the company Wacker, or the hydrophobic fumed silica surface-treated with dimethylsilane.
  • the powder(s) are chosen from fillers, and more preferentially from calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, alumina, barium sulfate, magnesium oxide, kaolinite or kaolins, modified or unmodified silicas, better still modified silicas and even better still hydrophobic fumed silica of nanometric size and surface-treated with hexamethyldisilazane or hydrophobic fumed silica surface-treated with dimethylsilane; mica; talc; and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition comprises one or more sebum-absorbing powders with a sebum uptake of greater than or equal to 35 ml/100 g.
  • the term "sebum-absorbing powder” means a powder that is capable of absorbing and/or adsorbing sebum, which has a sebum uptake of greater than or equal to 35 ml/100 g.
  • the sebum uptake corresponds to the amount of sebum absorbed and/or adsorbed by the powder. It is expressed in ml of sebum per 100 g of powder and is measured using the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard NF T 30-022.
  • the oil uptake of a powder corresponds to the amount of sebum absorbed onto the available surface of the powder by measuring the "wet point" as indicated below.
  • the measuring method is as follows: an amount m (in grams) of between 0.5 and 5 grams of powder is placed on a glass plate, the amount depending on the density of the powder, followed by dropwise addition of artificial sebum having the following composition:
  • the artificial sebum After addition of 4 to 5 drops of artificial sebum, the artificial sebum is incorporated into the powder using a spatula, and the addition of the artificial sebum is continued until conglomerates of artificial sebum and of powder form. From this point, the artificial sebum is added at a rate of one drop at a time and the mixture is subsequently triturated with the spatula.
  • the sebum uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.
  • the sebum-absorbing powder(s) that may be used in the aerosol device of the invention have a sebum uptake preferably ranging from 35 to 1000 ml/100 g and better still from 35 to 800 ml/100 g.
  • the sebum-absorbing particle may have a BET specific surface area of greater than or equal to 150 m 2 /g, preferably greater than or equal to 300 m 2 /g, better still greater than 500 m2/g and preferentially greater than 600 m 2 /g, and especially less than 1500 m 2 /g.
  • the BET specific surface area is determined according to the BET (Brunauer- Emmett-Teller) method described in the Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, and corresponding to international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D).
  • the BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area (thus including micropores) of the particle and especially of the powder.
  • the sebum-absorbing powder may be a mineral powder or an organic powder.
  • the sebum-absorbing powder may be chosen from:
  • acrylic polymers in particular of polymethyl methacrylate, of poly(methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate), of poly(allyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate) or of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer;
  • alkyl mentioned in the compounds cited previously notably denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • starches that may be used in the present invention are, for example, corn starch, potato starch, tapioca starch, rice starch, wheat starch and cassava starch.
  • a modified starch is a starch that has been modified via processes known to those skilled in the art, for instance esterification, etherification, oxidation, acid hydrolysis, crosslinking or enzymatic conversion.
  • the starch is a starch octenylsuccinate, in particular of aluminium, the starch being corn, wheat or rice starch. Mention may be made especially of the product provided by AkzoNobel under the name Dry Flo Plus. Mention may also be made of rice starch, such as the product D.S.A.7 provided by the company Agrana Starch.
  • the calcium silicates used as sebum-absorbing powder have a sebum uptake of greater than 200 ml/100 g, better still between 400 ml/100 g and 600 ml/100 g and more preferentially of about 475 ml/100 g.
  • the specific surface area (BET) preferably ranges from about 150 m 2 /g to 600 m 2 /g, better still from 300 m 2 /g to 600 m 2 /g and even more preferentially from 310 m 2 /g to 350 m 2 /g.
  • These calcium silicates are generally prepared by reaction of reactive silica with an alkaline-earth metal reagent, preferably an alkaline-earth metal oxide or hydroxide, and a source of aluminium such as sodium aluminate or alumina.
  • an alkaline-earth metal reagent preferably an alkaline-earth metal oxide or hydroxide
  • a source of aluminium such as sodium aluminate or alumina.
  • the preferred source of silica is the reaction product of a soluble silicate, such as sodium silicate, and of a mineral acid, such as sulfuric acid.
  • Suitable amorphous synthetic alkaline-earth metal silicates are manufactured by the company JM Huber Corporation and are sold under the Hubersorb® names. Methods for preparing these silicas are disclosed in greater detail in patent US 4 557 916.
  • Other suitable silicates are available from JM Huber Corporation, such as the sodium aluminosilicate sold under the Zeolexg brand name and
  • zeolites examples include sodium or potassium aluminosilicate compounds such as the product provided by Zeochem under the name XMOL.
  • silica powder of:
  • acrylic polymer powder of:
  • silicone elastomer powder of the powders sold under the names Trefil® Powder E-505C and Trefil® Powder E-506C by the company Dow Coming.
  • the composition comprises at least one sebum absorbing powder with a sebum uptake of greater than or equal to 35 ml/100 g.
  • the composition comprises at least one powder chosen from starches, calcium silicates, perlites, zeolites, polylactic acids, silicas, polyamide powders, acrylic polymer powders, silicone elastomer powders, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition comprises at least one powder chosen from modified starches such as starch octenylsuccinates and in particular aluminium starch octenylsuccinates, perlite, polylactic acids and zeolites, and better still from starch octenylsuccinates.
  • modified starches such as starch octenylsuccinates and in particular aluminium starch octenylsuccinates, perlite, polylactic acids and zeolites, and better still from starch octenylsuccinates.
  • the powder(s) are advantageously chosen from sebum-absorbing powders, and mixtures thereof, preferably from modified starches such as starch octenylsuccinates, and in particular aluminium starch octenylsuccinates, perlite, polylactic acids, and zeolites, and mixtures thereof, better still from starch octenylsuccinates and mixtures thereof.
  • modified starches such as starch octenylsuccinates, and in particular aluminium starch octenylsuccinates, perlite, polylactic acids, and zeolites, and mixtures thereof, better still from starch octenylsuccinates and mixtures thereof.
  • the content of the powder(s) ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferentially from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the compound(s) (b) are chosen from fixing polymers.
  • fixing polymer means any polymer that is capable, by application to the hair, of giving a shape to the head of hair or of holding an already acquired shape.
  • the anionic fixing polymers generally used are polymers containing groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphoric acid, and have a number-average molecular weight of between approximately 500 and 5 000 000.
  • the carboxylic groups are provided by unsaturated mono- or dicarboxylic acid monomers, such as those corresponding to formula (III):
  • n is an integer from 0 to 10
  • Ai denotes a methylene group, optionally connected to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the adjacent methylene group when n is greater than 1, via a heteroatom, such as oxygen or sulfur
  • R denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl or benzyl group
  • Rx denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl or carboxyl group
  • R.9 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group or a -CFh-COOH, phenyl or benzyl group.
  • a lower alkyl group preferably denotes a group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular methyl and ethyl groups.
  • anionic fixing polymers containing carboxylic groups that are preferred according to the invention are:
  • copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters or acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, optionally grafted to a polyalkylene glycol, such as polyethylene glycol, and optionally crosslinked.
  • a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters or acrylic or methacrylic acid esters
  • a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol, and optionally crosslinked.
  • Such polymers are described in particular in French patent No.1 222 944 and German patent application No. 2 330 956, the copolymers of this type comprising an optionally N-alkylated and/or hydroxyalkylated acrylamide unit in their chain as described in particular in Luxembourg patent application Nos. 75370 and 75371.
  • copolymers of acrylic acid and of C1-C4 alkyl methacrylate and terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone of acrylic acid and of C1-C20 alkyl methacrylate, for example lauryl methacrylate, such as that sold by the company ISP under the name Acrylidone® LM (INCI name: VP/acrylates/lauryl methacrylate copolymer), acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-(t-butyl)acrylamide terpolymers, such as the products Ultrahold® Strong and Ultrahold® 8 sold by the company BASF (INCI name: Acrylates/t- butyl acrylamide copolymer), methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate// ⁇ ?
  • lauryl methacrylate such as that sold by the company ISP under the name Acrylidone® LM (INCI name: VP/acrylates/lauryl methacrylate copolymer), acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N
  • branched block polymers containing (meth)acrylic acid monomers such as the product sold under the name Fixate® G-100L by Lubrizol (INCI name: AMP-acrylates / allyl methacrylate copolymer).
  • Crotonic acid copolymers such as those comprising, in their chain, vinyl acetate or propionate units and optionally other monomers, such as allyl or methallyl esters, vinyl ethers or vinyl esters of a linear or branched saturated carboxylic acid having a long hydrocarbon chain, such as those comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, it optionally being possible for these polymers to be grafted or crosslinked, or also another monomer which is a vinyl, allyl or methallyl ester of an a- or b-cyclic carboxylic acid.
  • Such polymers are described, inter alia , in French patent Nos.
  • Luviset® CA 66 sold by the company BASF
  • Aristoflex® A60 sold by the company Clariant
  • Mexomere® PW or PAM sold by the company Chimex (INCI name: VA / vinyl butyl benzoate / crotonates copolymer).
  • copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides and (ii) at least one monomer chosen from vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and esters thereof, the anhydride functions of these copolymers optionally being monoesterified or monoamidated.
  • monomers chosen from vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and esters thereof, the anhydride functions of these copolymers optionally being monoesterified or monoamidated.
  • Gantrez® AN or ES by ISP such as Gantrez® ES 225 (INCI name: Ethyl ester of PVM / MA copolymer) or Gantrez® ES 425L (INCI name: Butyl ester of PVM / MA copolymer);
  • copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, citraconic or itaconic anhydride units and (ii) one or more monomers chosen from allyl or methallyl esters, optionally comprising one or more acrylamide, methacrylamide, a-olefm, acrylic or methacrylic ester, acrylic or methacrylic acid or vinylpyrrolidone groups in their chain, the anhydride functions of these copolymers optionally being monoesterified or monoamidated.
  • the fixing polymers bearing units derived from sulfonic acid may be chosen from:
  • A' homopolymers and copolymers including vinylsulfonic, styrenesulfonic, naphthalenesulfonic or acrylamidoalkylsulfonic units.
  • These polymers may be notably chosen from:
  • polyvinylsulfonic acid salts with a molecular mass of between approximately 1000 and 100 000, and also the copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and esters thereof, and also acrylamide or derivatives thereof, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone;
  • polyacrylamidosulfonic acid salts such as those mentioned in patent US 4 128 631, and more particularly the polyacrylamidoethylpropanesulfonic acid sold under the name Rheocare® HSP-1180 by Cognis (INCI name: polyacrylamidomethylpropane sulfonic acid).
  • B' sulfonic polyesters, these polymers being advantageously obtained by polycondensation of at least one dicarboxylic acid, of at least one diol or of a mixture of diol and of diamine, and of at least one difunctional monomer including a sulfonic function.
  • these polymers mention may be made of:
  • polyesters such as those described in patent applications US 3 734 874, US 3 779 993, US 4 119 680, US 4 300 580, US 4 973 656, US 5 660 816, US 5 662 893 and US 5 674 479.
  • Such polymers are, for example, the products Eastman® AQ38S Polymer, Eastman® AQ55S Polymer and Eastman® AQ48 Ultra Polymer sold by Eastman Chemical (name: Polyester-5) which are copolymers obtained from di ethylene glycol, from 1,4-cyclohexanedimethanol, from isophthalic acid and from sulfoisophthalic acid salt.
  • polyester- 13 - branched sulfonic polyesters such as those described in patent applications WO 95/18191, WO 97/08261 and WO 97/20899.
  • Such compounds are, for example, the products Eastman® AQ10D Polymer (name: Polyester- 13) or Eastman® AQ1350 Polymer provided by the company Eastman Chemical (name: Polyester- 13).
  • the anionic fixing polymers are preferably chosen from copolymers of acrylic acid, such as the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-ieri- butyl acrylamide terpolymers sold in particular under the name Ultrahold® Strong by BASF, copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as vinyl acetate/vinyl tert- butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold in particular under the name Resyn 28-2930 by AkzoNobel, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives and acrylic acid and esters thereof, such as the methyl vinyl ether/monoesterified maleic anhydride copolymers sold, for example, under the names Gantrez® ES 425
  • the cationic fixing polymers that may be used according to the present invention are preferably chosen from polymers comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly attached thereto, and having a molecular weight of between 500 and approximately 5 000 000 and preferably between 1000 and 3 000 000.
  • cationic polymers (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formulae:
  • R-3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical
  • A is a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • R4, Us and R. 6 which are identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical;
  • Ri and R2 which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
  • X denotes a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
  • the copolymers of family (1) additionally comprise one or more units deriving from comonomers which can be chosen from the family of the acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower (C1-C4) alkyl groups, groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams, such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, or vinyl esters.
  • comonomers which can be chosen from the family of the acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower (C1-C4) alkyl groups, groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams, such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, or vinyl esters.
  • cationic derivatives of guar gum preferably comprising quaternary ammonium, such as those described in the United States patents 3 589 578 and 4 031 307, such as guar gums comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups.
  • Such products are sold in particular under the trade names Jaguar® C 13 S, Jaguar® C 15 and Jaguar® C 17 by Rhodia (INCI name: Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride); (3) quaternary copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole; mention may be made, for example, of vinylpyrrolidone / methyl vinylimidazolium chloride copolymers, such as the products sold by BASF under the names Luviquat® FC550 or FC370, Luviquat® Excellence, Luviquat® Style (INCI name: Polyquaternium-16), or vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazolium methosulfate / vinylcaprolactam terpolymers, such as the product Luviquat® Hold sold by BASF (INCI name: Polyquaternium-46).
  • Chitosans or salts thereof are in particular the acetate, lactate, glutamate, gluconate or pyrrolidonecarboxylate of chitosan.
  • cationic cellulose derivatives such as copolymers of cellulose or of cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble monomer comprising a quaternary ammonium, and described especially in patent US 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxy ethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
  • hydroxyalkylcelluloses for instance hydroxymethyl-, hydroxy ethyl- or hydroxypropylcelluloses grafted in particular with a methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium or dimethyldiallylammonium salt.
  • the products sold corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the names Celquat® L 200 and Celquat® H 100 by AkzoNobel (INCI name: Polyquatemium-4).
  • amphoteric fixing polymers which can be used in accordance with the invention can be chosen from polymers comprising B and C units randomly distributed in the polymer chain, where B denotes a unit deriving from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit deriving from an acidic monomer comprising one or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups or else B and C can denote groups deriving from zwitterionic carboxybetaine or sulfobetaine monomers;
  • B and C may also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups bears a carboxylic or sulfonic group connected via a hydrocarbon-based group or alternatively B and C form part of a chain of a polymer comprising an a,b- dicarboxylic ethylene unit in which one of the carboxylic groups has been reacted with a polyamine comprising one or more primary or secondary amine groups.
  • amphoteric fixing polymers corresponding to the definition given above that are more particularly preferred are chosen from the following polymers:
  • copolymers bearing acidic vinyl units and basic vinyl units such as those resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, alpha-chloroacrylic acid, and of a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, such as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate and acrylate, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide and -acrylamide.
  • a monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, alpha-chloroacrylic acid
  • a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom such as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate and acrylate, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide and -acrylamide.
  • basic comonomer such as esters with primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids and the product of quatemization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.
  • the N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides that are more particularly preferred according to the invention are compounds in which the alkyl groups contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert- butyl acrylamide, N-tert-octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N- dodecyl acrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides.
  • the acidic comonomers are more particularly chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid and fumaric acid and alkyl monoesters, containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides.
  • the preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N,N’- dimethylaminoethyl and N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates.
  • copolymers of which the INCI name is Octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer such as the products sold under the names Amphomer®, Amphomer® LV71 or Balance® 47 by AkzoNobel, are particularly used;
  • R o represents a divalent group derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, from an aliphatic mono- or dicarboxylic acid bearing an ethylenic double bond, from an ester of a lower alkanol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids, or from a group derived from the addition of any one of said acids to a bis-primary or bis- secondary amine
  • Z denotes a group derived from a bis-primary, mono- or bis- secondary polyalkylenepolyamine and preferably represents:
  • this group being derived from diethylenetriamine, from triethylenetetramine or from dipropylenetriamine;
  • these polyaminoamides being crosslinked by addition reaction of a bifunctional crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides or bisunsaturated derivatives, by means of from 0.025 to 0.35 mol of crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyaminoamide, and acylated by action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or an alkane sultone or salts thereof.
  • a bifunctional crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides or bisunsaturated derivatives
  • the saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids containing 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, 2,2,4-trimethyladipic acid, 2,4,4- trimethyladipic acid and terephthalic acid, and acids bearing an ethylenic double bond, for instance acrylic, methacrylic and itaconic acids.
  • the alkane sultones used in the acylation are preferably propane sultone or butane sultone;
  • the salts of the acylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts;
  • Rn denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group, such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group
  • y and z represent an integer from 1 to 3
  • Ri2 and Ri3 represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl or propyl group
  • Ri4 and Ris represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group such that the sum of the carbon atoms in Ri4 and Ris does not exceed 10.
  • the polymers comprising such units may also include units derived from non- zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides or vinyl acetate.
  • methyl methacrylate/methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate copolymers such as the product sold under the name Diaformer Z-301N or Z-301W by Clariant (INCI name: Acrylates copolymer);
  • Ri6 represents a group of formula:
  • Rn, Rix and Ri9 which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue that are optionally interrupted with one or more nitrogen atoms and/or optionally substituted with one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio or sulfonic groups, an alkylthio residue in which the alkyl group bears an amino residue, at least one of the groups Rn, Ris and Rn being, in this case, a hydrogen atom;
  • Rn, Rix and Rn each represent a hydrogen atom, and also the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids;
  • R20 represents a hydrogen atom or a CH3O-, CH3CH2O- or phenyl group
  • R21 denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower alkyl group, such as methyl or ethyl
  • R22 denotes a hydrogen atom or a lower C1-C6 alkyl group, such as methyl or ethyl
  • R23 denotes a lower C1-C6 alkyl group, such as methyl or ethyl, or a group corresponding to the formula: -R24-N(R22)2, with R24 representing a -CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-CH2-, or -CH2- CH(CH3)- group and R22 having the meanings given above;
  • polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan such as N- carboxymethyl chitosan or N-carboxybutyl chitosan, for instance the product sold under the name Chitoglycan by Sinerga SPA (INCI name: Carboxymethyl chitosan);
  • amphoteric polymers of the -D-X-D-X type chosen from:
  • E and E’ denote a divalent group that is an alkylene group with a straight or branched chain including up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted with hydroxyl groups and which may include, in addition to oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms, 1 to 3 aromatic and/or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine or alkenylamine groups, hydroxyl, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and/or urethane groups;
  • E denotes the symbol E or E’ and at least once E’;
  • E having the meaning given above and E’ being a divalent group that is an alkylene group with a straight or branched chain containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and which includes one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted with an alkyl chain that is optionally interrupted with an oxygen atom and which necessarily includes one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions betainized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate;
  • (9) (Ci-Cs)alkyl vinyl ether/maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified by semiamidation with an N,N-dialkylaminoalkylamine, such as N,N- dimethylaminopropylamine, or by semiesterification with an N,N- dialkylaminoalkanol.
  • These copolymers may also comprise other vinyl comonomers, such as vinylcaprolactam.
  • amphoteric fixing polymers mentioned above that are most particularly preferred according to the invention, mention will be made of those of family (3), such as the copolymers of which the EMCI name is Octylacrylamide/acrylates/butylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the names Amphomer®, Amphomer® LV 71 or Balance® 47 by AkzoNobel and those of family (4), such as the methyl methacrylate/methyl dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate copolymers sold, for example, under the name Diaformer Z-301N or Z-301W by Clariant.
  • the non-ionic fixing polymers that may be used according to the present invention are chosen, for example, from:
  • vinyl acetate copolymers such as, for example, copolymers of vinyl acetate and of acrylic ester, copolymers of vinyl acetate and of ethylene, or copolymers of vinyl acetate and of maleic ester, for example of dibutyl maleate;
  • styrene copolymers such as, for example, copolymers of styrene, of alkyl acrylate and of alkyl methacrylate; copolymers of styrene and of butadiene; or copolymers of styrene, of butadiene and of vinylpyridine;
  • vinyllactam homopolymers such as the vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers sold, for example, under the names Luviskol® K30 powder by BASF or PVP K30L or
  • K60 solution or K90 by ISP or such as the polyvinylcaprolactam sold under the name Luviskol® Plus by BASF (INCI name: PVP);
  • vinyllactam copolymers such as a poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyllactam) copolymer sold under the trade name Luvitec® VPC 55K65W by BASF, poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate) copolymers, such as those sold under the name PVP/VA® S630L, E735, E635 and W735 by ISP, Luviskol® VA 73, VA 64 and VA 37 by BASF (INCI name: VP/VA copolymer); and vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamide/vinylimidazole terpolymers, for instance the product sold under the name Luviset® Clear by BASF (INCI name: VP/methacrylamide/vinyl imidazole copolymer).
  • a poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyllactam) copolymer sold under the trade name Luvitec® VPC 55K65W by BASF poly(vinylpyrroli
  • the alkyl groups of the non-ionic polymers mentioned above preferably contain from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • Use may also be made, according to the invention, of fixing polymers of grafted silicone type comprising a polysiloxane portion and a portion constituted of a non-silicone organic chain, one of the two portions constituting the main chain of the polymer and the other being grafted onto said main chain.
  • These polymers may be amphoteric, anionic or non-ionic and they are preferably anionic or non-ionic.
  • Such polymers are, for example, copolymers that may be obtained by free radical polymerization from the monomer mixture formed from:
  • v is a number ranging from 5 to 700, the weight percentages being calculated relative to the total weight of the monomers.
  • grafted silicone polymers are in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) to which mixed polymer units of the poly((meth)acrylic acid) type and of the poly(alkyl (meth)acrylate) type are grafted via a thiopropylene-type connecting link and polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) to which polymer units of the poly(isobutyl (meth)acrylate) type are grafted via a thiopropylene- type connecting link.
  • PDMSs polydimethylsiloxanes
  • PDMSs polydimethylsiloxanes
  • Grafted silicone polymers are, for example, sold under the names Silicone Plus Polymer® VS80 and VA70 by 3M (INCI names: Polysilicone-8 and Polysilicone- 7 respectively).
  • silicone fixing polymer Another type of silicone fixing polymer that may be mentioned is the product Luviflex® Silk sold by BASF (INCI name: PEG/PPG-25/25 dimethicone/acrylates Copolymer). Functionalized or non-functionalized, silicone or non-silicone, cationic, non ionic, anionic or amphoteric polyurethanes or mixtures thereof may also be used as fixing polymers.
  • polyurethanes particularly targeted by the present invention are those described in the patent applications EP 0 751 162, EP 0 637 600, EP 0 648 485 and FR 2 743 297, of which the applicant is the proprietor, and also in the patent applications EP 0 656 021 and WO 94/03510 of BASF and EP 0 619 111 of National Starch.
  • the fixing polymer(s) that may be used according to the invention are advantageously chosen from cationic fixing polymers, in particular from cationic cellulose derivatives, and mixtures thereof, preferably from copolymers of cellulose or of cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble monomer comprising a quaternary ammonium, and mixtures thereof.
  • the content of the fixing polymer(s) ranges from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total content of the compound(s) (b) ranges from 5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 6 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more compound(s) (b) chosen from powders, preferably from sebum absorbers, and one or more compound(s) (b) chosen from fixing polymers, preferably from cationic fixing polymers.
  • composition contained in the aerosol device according to the invention also comprises one or more non-ionic surfactant(s) (c) chosen from (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly)glycosides and polyoxalkylenated C8-C30 fatty alcohols.
  • non-ionic surfactants that may be used are described, for example, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991, pages 116-178.
  • non-ionic surfactants examples include the following non-ionic surfactants:
  • the number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges in particular from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 10
  • non-ionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise any oxypropylene units.
  • non-ionic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention are preferentially chosen from:
  • - oxyethylenated Cs to C3 0 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains;
  • the non-ionic surfactant(s) that may be used are preferably chosen from (Cs- Ci8 alkyl)(poly)glycosides, polyethoxylated C8-C 30 fatty alcohols in particular having from 2 to 150 mol of ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof.
  • the total content of the non-ionic surfactant(s) (c) ranges from 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition contained in the aerosol device according to the invention also comprises one or more polysaccharide(s) (d), different from the compounds (b) and from the non-ionic surfactants (c).
  • polysaccharides refers to a polymer constituted of sugar units.
  • sucrose unit refers to an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which includes at least 4 carbon atoms.
  • the sugar units may be optionally modified by substitution, and/or by oxidation and/or by dehydration.
  • sugar units that may be included in the composition of the polysaccharides of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, xylose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.
  • the polysaccharides according to the invention are microbial polysaccharides, that is to say produced by bacteria or fungi.
  • - xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, of mannose, of pyruvic acid and of glucuronic acid);
  • These polymers may be physically or chemically modified.
  • physical treatment mention may notably be made of a heat treatment.
  • Chemical treatments that may be mentioned include esterification, etherification, amidation and oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to produce polymers that may notably be non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric.
  • the polysaccharide(s) (d), different from the compounds (b) and from the non-ionic surfactants (c), are chosen from anionic polysaccharides, non-ionic polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof, preferentially from non-ionic polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the polysaccharide(s) (d), different from the compounds (b) and from the non-ionic surfactants (c), are chosen from carrageenans and furcellerans, xanthan gum, gellan gum, scleroglucan gum, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polysaccharide (d), different from the compounds (b) and from the non-ionic surfactants (c), is scleroglucan gum.
  • the total content of the polysaccharide(s) (d), different from the compounds (b) and from the non-ionic surfactants (c), ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, more preferentially from 0.07 to 5% by weight, even more preferentially from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition contained in the aerosol device according to the invention also comprises one or more organic solvent(s) (e).
  • an organic solvent is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the organic solvent(s) are chosen from linear or branched monoalcohols containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, and more preferentially from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, polyols, polyethylene glycols, aromatic alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
  • organic solvents that may be used according to the invention, mention may especially be made of ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the organic solvent(s) (e) that may be used according to the invention can be chosen from linear or branched monoalcohols containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, preferably from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the total content of the organic solvent(s) (e) ranges from 5 to 25% by weight, preferably from 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition contained in the aerosol device according to the invention also comprises one or more propellant(s) (g).
  • propellant(s) that may be used in the aerosol device of the present invention are advantageously chosen from liquefied gases, and mixtures thereof, preferably from dimethyl ether, chlorinated hydrocarbons, fluorinated hydrocarbons, and mixtures thereof, volatile hydrocarbons, and mixtures thereof, more preferentially from volatile hydrocarbons, and mixtures thereof.
  • the total content of the propellant(s) (g) ranges from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, preferentially from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio between the total content of organic solvents (e) and the total content of propellants (g) is greater than 1, preferentially ranges from 1.1 to 3, better still from 1.2 to 2.
  • composition contained in the aerosol device according to the invention also comprises water.
  • the water content ranges from 5 to 98% by weight, preferably from 20 to 95% by weight, more preferentially from 30 to 90% by weight, even more preferentially from 40 to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition contained in the aerosol device according to the present invention may also optionally comprise one or more additives, other than the compounds of the invention and among which mention may be made of alkaline agents, cationic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants other than the non-ionic surfactants of the invention, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof, fatty substances, cationic, anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric polymers, or mixtures thereof, other than the fixing polymers of the invention, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, vitamins and provitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickeners, in particular polymeric thickeners, other than polysaccharides, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances and preserving agents. Needless to say, those skilled in the art will take care to select this or these optional additional compound(s) such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with
  • the above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aerosol device comprising the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is constituted of a container containing said composition, and of a means for spraying said composition.
  • the aerosol device according to the invention makes it possible to spray said cosmetic composition in foam form.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is advantageously packaged under pressure, in an aerosol device, for example a monobloc device, which comprises a spraying means and a container.
  • an aerosol device for example a monobloc device, which comprises a spraying means and a container.
  • the spraying means is generally formed from a dispensing valve controlled by a dispensing head, which itself comprises a nozzle via which the composition of the invention is sprayed, preferably in foam form.
  • the container containing the pressurized composition may be opaque or transparent. It may be made of glass, polymer or metal, and may optionally be coated with a protective varnish coat.
  • a subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for treating keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, comprising a step of applying to said keratin fibres a cosmetic composition sprayed from an aerosol device as defined previously.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention may be applied to dry or wet keratin materials, preferably to dry keratin materials.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is applied and then followed by a leave-on time that may range from 1 to 15 minutes, preferably from 2 to 10 minutes.
  • a subject of the invention is also the use of a cosmetic composition sprayed from an aerosol device according to the present invention, for cleansing and/or shaping keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the invention is used for shaping keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibres such as the hair, especially in terms of volume, by giving the keratin fibres body and better lifting of the roots.
  • the examples that follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.
  • compositions Al, A2, A3 and A4 according to the present invention were prepared from the ingredients, the contents of which are indicated in the table below.
  • compositions are packaged in a 150 ml container with a P14105-type valve and a foam-type diffuser DMPR-177, DMCO370 or DMPR190.
  • compositions are sprayed in the form of a compact and light foam which easily breaks on application and rapidly dries.
  • Composition A4 obtained above was packaged in a 150 ml container with a valve and a foam-type diffuser.
  • composition A4 The foam obtained from composition A4 was compared to a dry shampoo in foam form sold under the name Dry shampoo foam OUAI.
  • the composition according to the invention After application to the head of hair, the composition according to the invention exhibits better cleansing and refreshing properties and provides better volume (provides better lifting of the roots and better body) than the comparative composition. It also exhibits fewer visible residues than the comparative composition and does not dull the head of hair.
  • the foam obtained from the comparative composition is thicker; it is also difficult to distribute. Furthermore, this foam does not exhibit a satisfactory keratin fibre-cleansing aspect. In addition, the foam does not make it possible to obtain a texturing effect, in particular in terms of volume.
  • the foam obtained according to the invention from composition A4 exhibits an aerated and smooth texture.
  • This foam can be easily applied, uniformly, to all of the keratin fibres.
  • the composition results in clean hair, without the presence of residues, and makes it possible to obtain a volume effect on the keratin fibres, in particular in terms of body of the fibres and lifting of the roots.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne un dispositif aérosol contenant une composition cosmétique hydroalcoolique comprenant un tensio-actif anionique, une poudre et / ou un polymère fixant, un tensio-actif non ionique, un polysaccharide et un solvant organique. L'invention concerne également un procédé cosmétique de traitement des fibres de kératine, en particulier des fibres de kératine humaines telles que les cheveux, comprenant une étape d'application sur lesdites fibres de kératine de ladite composition cosmétique pulvérisée à partir dudit dispositif aérosol. L'invention concerne également l'utilisation de ladite composition cosmétique pulvérisée à partir dudit dispositif aérosol pour nettoyer des fibres de kératine, en particulier des fibres de kératine humaines telles que les cheveux.
PCT/EP2019/086351 2018-12-21 2019-12-19 Dispositif aérosol contenant une composition cosmétique hydroalcoolique WO2020127766A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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FR1873909 2018-12-21
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Cited By (1)

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US11357714B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2022-06-14 Chembeau LLC Diester cosmetic formulations and uses thereof

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EP0619111A1 (fr) 1993-04-06 1994-10-12 National Starch and Chemical Investment Holding Corporation Utilisation des polyuréthanes avec des groupes carboxyliques fonctionelle comme agent fixateur des cheveux
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EP0582152A2 (fr) 1992-07-28 1994-02-09 Mitsubishi Chemical Corporation Composition cosmétique pour les cheveux
WO1994003510A1 (fr) 1992-07-29 1994-02-17 Basf Aktiengesellschaft Utilisation de polyurethannes solubles dans l'eau ou dispersibles dans l'eau comme adjuvants dans des preparations cosmetiques et pharmaceutiques, et polyurethannes renfermant des polyolpolylactiques incorpores par polymerisation
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EP0619111A1 (fr) 1993-04-06 1994-10-12 National Starch and Chemical Investment Holding Corporation Utilisation des polyuréthanes avec des groupes carboxyliques fonctionelle comme agent fixateur des cheveux
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EP0637600A1 (fr) 1993-08-04 1995-02-08 L'oreal Nouveaux polyester-polyuréthannes, leur procédé de préparation, pseudo-latex réalisés à partir desdits polyester-polyuréthannes et leur utilisation dans des compositions cosmétiques
EP0648485A1 (fr) 1993-10-15 1995-04-19 L'oreal Vernis à ongles aqueux, contenant des particules de polyester-polyuréthanne anionique à l'état dispersé
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Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US11357714B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2022-06-14 Chembeau LLC Diester cosmetic formulations and uses thereof
US11491092B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2022-11-08 Chembeau LLC Hair treatment formulations and uses thereof
US11801211B2 (en) 2020-07-21 2023-10-31 Chembeau LLC Hair treatment formulations and uses thereof

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