WO2020088905A1

WO2020088905A1 - Cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion containing zinc oxide

Info

Publication number: WO2020088905A1
Application number: PCT/EP2019/077436
Authority: WO
Inventors: So UMEMURA; Andreas Bleckmann; Dominik Göddertz
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2018-11-01
Filing date: 2019-10-10
Publication date: 2020-05-07
Also published as: DE102018218740A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion (O/W emulsion) containing a) polyglyceryl-10 stearate (INCI: polyglyceryl-10 stearate), b) sorbitan stearate (INCI: sorbitan stearate), c) zinc oxide, and d) a pH buffer system consisting of lactic acid and sodium lactate, wherein the emulsion is free from 3-(4-methylbenzylidene)-camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: oxybenzone), 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (INCI: octylmethoxycinnamate), propylparaben, butylparaben, methylisothiazolinone, chloromethylisothiazolinone and DMDM-hydantoin, polyethylene glycol ethers and polyethylene glycol esters.

Description

Cosmetic O / W emulsion with zinc oxide

The present invention relates to a cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion) containing polyglyceryl-10 stearate (INCI polyglyceryl-10 stearate), sorbitan stearate (INCI sorbitan stearate), zinc oxide and a pH buffer system composed of lactic acid and sodium lactate, wherein the emulsion is free from 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: oxybenzone), 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (INCI octylmethoxycinnamate), propylparaben, butylparaben, methylisothiazolinone, chloromonomethyl isl and DMDM hydantoin, polyethylene glycol ethers and polyethylene glycol esters.

The trend away from the paleness towards "healthy, sporty brown skin" has been going on for years. To achieve this, people put their skin on the

Solar radiation, since this causes pigment formation in the sense of melanin formation. However, the ultraviolet radiation from sunlight also has a damaging effect on the skin. In addition to acute damage (sunburn), long-term damage such as an increased risk of developing skin cancer occurs with excessive exposure to light from the UVB range (wavelength: 280-320 nm). The excessive exposure to UVB and UVA radiation (wavelength: 320-400 nm) also leads to a weakening of the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue. This leads to numerous

phototoxic and photoallergic reactions and results in premature skin aging.

To protect the skin, a number of light protection filter substances have therefore been developed that can be used in cosmetic preparations. These UVA and UVB filters are in most industrialized countries in the form of positive lists such as Appendix 7 of the

Cosmetics regulation summarized.

However, the large number of commercially available sunscreens must not hide the fact that these preparations of the prior art are a number of

Have disadvantages. A particularly interesting UV filter from the UV spectrum is zinc oxide, which is used in the form of fine pigments (micropigments) analogous to titanium dioxide. A major reason why zinc oxide, in contrast to titanium dioxide, has so far not been able to establish itself properly in the cosmetic market as a UV filter is due to the fact that the use of zinc oxide leads to the pH value of the preparation being changed storage increases sharply. However, high pH values in cosmetic preparations are problematic not only from a skin physiological point of view, since high pH values destroy the skin's protective acid mantle. Such changes can also make the preparation itself unstable, since many ingredients are sensitive to pH. The emulsion system can be destroyed.

Above all, the problem of zinc oxide pH rise occurs

Emulsion systems of the type oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion), which is why

Zinc oxide-based sunscreens are primarily offered as a W / O emulsion. O / W emulsions, on the other hand, delight consumers due to their sensory

Properties far more popular than W / O emulsions.

There has been no shortage of attempts in the prior art to deal with the problem of the pH increase in zinc oxide emulsions. For example, the person skilled in the art knows EP1 102576, in which mixtures of zinc oxide and UV filters are involved

Sulfonic acid function (e.g. phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid) can be used. Various buffer systems have also been tested. However, such systems usually fall short of expectations in terms of their stability. In addition, according to the prior art, they can only be stabilized with O / W emulsifiers (so-called PEG emulsifiers), such as PEG-100 stearates (for example in Arlacel 165®) and / or polyacrylates, which are relatively insensitive to pH and contain polyethylene glycol groups . However, such ingredients are increasingly unpopular with consumers, as they are feared for health and the environment. Whether such concerns are scientifically justified can remain open in the context of the present disclosure. The fact is that consumers are increasingly asking for products that do not contain such ingredients and, for example, expressly “PEG-free”

Require preparations.

It was therefore the object of the present invention to develop pH-stable, storage-stable, PEG-free O / W emulsions with zinc oxide as a UV filter.

The object is surprisingly achieved by a cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion) containing

a) Polyglyceryl-10 stearate (INCI Polyglyceryl-10 stearate)

b) Sorbitan stearate (INCI sorbitan stearate) c) zinc oxide

d) a pH buffer system consisting of lactic acid and sodium lactate,

wherein the emulsion is free from 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: oxybenzone), 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (INCI octylmethoxycinnamate), propylparaben, butylparaben, methylisothiazolinone, chloromonomethyl isl and DMDM hydantoin, polyethylene glycol ethers and polyethylene glycol esters.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the zinc oxide is coated with triethoxycaprylylsilane.

Embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the zinc oxide has a primary particle size between 20 and 100 nm. The primary particle size can be determined according to SCCS opinion (EC No. 1223/2009, Annex VI,

No27a and 30a) can be determined using a CPS centrifuge or laser scattering method.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageous if the O / W emulsion contains the zinc oxide in an amount of 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation is free from acrylate polymers.

The O / W emulsion according to the invention contains a mixture of polyglyceryl stearate and sorbitan stearate as the emulsifier system.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains polyglyceryl-10 stearate (INCI polyglyceryl-10 stearate) in a concentration of 1.44 to 2.40% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

With regard to the sorbitan stearate, it is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains sorbitan stearate (INCI sorbitan stearate) in a concentration of 1.26 to 2.10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

With regard to the buffer system, it has proven advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains lactic acid in a concentration of 0.55 to 0.60% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. It is preferred according to the invention to use lactic acid in a concentration of 0.58 to 0.59% by weight, based on the

Total weight of the preparation. It is also advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains sodium lactate in a

Contains a concentration of 0.65 to 0.75% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. The preferred use concentration here is 0.7% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation contains no octocrylene (INCI octocrylene) and

Contains mineral oil.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageous if the preparation contains xantham gum (INCI Xantham Gum). In such a case, it is advantageous according to the invention if xantham gum in a concentration of 0.05 to 0.30% by weight, based on the

Total weight of the preparation used.

In addition to zinc oxide, the preparation according to the invention can advantageously contain further UV filters. It is preferred according to the invention if the preparation one or more UV filters selected from the group of the compounds 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (INCI butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane), (2 - [- 4- ( Diethylamino) -2-hydroxybenzoyl]

Hexyl benzoate (INCI: diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate) and 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3, 5-triazine (INCI bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine), 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) , Ethylhexyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate,

Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexyl-Butamidotriazone), 4,4 ', 4 "- (1, 3,5-Triazin-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid-tris (2-ethylhexyl ester) (also: 2, 4,6-tris [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone), 2,4,6-T ribiphenyl-4 -yl-1, 3,5-triazine, titanium dioxide.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation according to the invention contains phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerol and / or 4-hydroxyacetophenone.

In addition, it is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation comprises one or more alkanediols from the group of the compounds 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 2-decanediol, 2-methyl-1, Contains 3-propanediol.

In addition, the preparation according to the invention can advantageously one or more compounds selected from the group of the compounds alpha-lipoic acid, folic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, flavonoids, creatine , Creatinine, taurine, b-alanine, panthenol, Magnolol, honokiol, tocopheryl acetate, dihydroxyacetone; 8-Hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid, glycerylglycose, (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, vitamin E or its derivatives, glycyrrhetic acid, hyaluronic acid and / or its salts and / or licochalcone A contain.

In addition, the O / W emulsion according to the invention can contain the usual ingredients for such preparations.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageous if the invention

Preparation one or more perfumes selected from the group of the compounds limonene, citral, linalool, alpha-isomethylionone, geraniol, citronellol, 2-isobutyl-4-hydroxy-4-methyltetrahydropyran, 2-tert-pentylcyclohexyl acetate, 3-methyl-5-phenyl -1-pentanol, 7-acetyl-1, 1, 3,4,4,6-hexamethyltetralin, adipic diester, alpha-amylcinnamaldehyde, alpha-methylionone, amyl C butylphenylmethylpropionalcinnamal, amylsalicylate, amylcinnamyl alcohol, anise alcohol, benzoin, benzyl benzylamate, benzyl benzyl alcoholate, benzyl benzyl alcoholate , Benzyl salicylate,

Bergamot oil, bitter orange oil, butylphenylmethylpropioal, cardamom oil, cedrol, cinnamal, cinnamyl alcohol, citronellylmethyl crotonate, lemon oil, coumarin, diethylsuccinate, ethyllinalool, eugenol, evernia furfuracea extract, evernia prunastolalolololylololylololylololylololylololylololylololylolaxylololylololylolol, hexafilolololololololol, hexamolololololol, hexalololololol, hexalol oil , Mandarin oil, menthyl PCA, methylheptenone, nutmeg oil, rosemary oil, sweet orange oil, terpineol, tonka bean oil, triethyl citrate and / or vanillin.

The preparation according to the invention can advantageously contain humectants. As

Moisturisers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic preparations the property of reducing the release of moisture from the horny layer (also called transepidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or hydrating the horny layer after application or distribution on the skin surface positive too

influence.

Advantageous moisturizers (moisturizers) for the purposes of the present invention are

for example glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, Biosaccaride Gum-1, Glycine soy, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymers

Moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides. Particularly advantageous are, for example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide, which is filed in the Chemical Abstracts under the registration number 178463-23-5 and z. B. is available under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA SA. Moisturizers can also be used advantageously as anti-wrinkle ingredients to protect against skin changes, such as those found in z. B. occur in skin aging, are used. The cosmetic preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. the sensory and cosmetic

Further improve the properties of the formulations and, for example, create or intensify a velvety or silky feeling on the skin. Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch,

Distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like),

Pigments that have neither primarily UV filtering nor coloring effects (such as boron nitride etc.) and / or Aerosile ^® (CAS No. 7631 -86-9) and / or talc and / or polyethylene, nylon, Silica Diemthyl Silyate.

It is preferred according to the invention if the preparation according to the invention contains silica dimethyl silylates.

Embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation comprises one or more oils selected from the group of the compounds butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, phenethyl benzoate, 012-15 alkyl benzoate, dibutyl adipate; Diisopropyl sebacate, dicaprylyl carbonate, di-C12-13 alkyl tartrate, butyl octyl salicylate, diethylhexyl syringylidenes malonate, hydragenated castor oil dimerate,

Triheptanoin, C12-13 alkyl lactate, C16-17 alkyl benzoate, propylheptyl caprylate,

Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Diethylhexyl 2,6-Naphthalate, Octyldodecanol, Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexyl Cocoate, contains.

It is preferred according to the invention if the preparation dibutyl adipate,

Contains dicaprylyl carbonate and / or C12-C15 alkyl benzoate.

The water phase of the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, electrolytes, self-tanners and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. B. Hy aluronic acid, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose. An ethanol content is also advantageous. Examples

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, proportions and percentages are based on the weight and the total quantity or on the total weight of the preparations.

The pH stability (the pH shift) of these preparations was determined at room temperature (20 ° C.).

Conclusion: The preparations according to the invention are significantly more pH-stable than that

Comparative example.

Claims

1. Containing cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion)

a) Polyglyceryl-10 stearate (INCI Polyglyceryl-10 stearate)

b) Sorbitan stearate (INCI sorbitan stearate)

c) zinc oxide

d) a pH buffer system consisting of lactic acid and sodium lactate,

the emulsion being free from 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: oxybenzone), 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (INCI octylmethoxycinnamate), propylparaben, butylparaben, methylisothiazolinone,

Chloromethyl isothiazolinone and DMDM hydantoin, polyethylene glycol ethers and

Polyethylene glycol esters.

2. Cosmetic O / W emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that the

Zinc oxide is coated with triethoxycaprylylsilane.

3. Cosmetic O / W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized

characterized in that the zinc oxide has a primary particle size between 20 and 100 nm.

4. Cosmetic O / W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized

characterized in that the preparation contains the zinc oxide in an amount of 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

5. Cosmetic O / W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized

characterized in that the preparation is free of acrylate polymers.

6. Cosmetic O / W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized

characterized in that the preparation contains polyglyceryl-10 stearate (INCI polyglyceryl-10 stearate) in a concentration of 1.44 to 2.40% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

7. Cosmetic O / W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized

characterized in that the preparation contains sorbitan stearate (INCI sorbitan stearate) in a concentration of 1.26 to 2.10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

8. Cosmetic O / W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized

characterized in that the preparation contains lactic acid in a concentration of 0.55 to 0.60% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation

9. Cosmetic O / W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized

characterized in that the preparation contains sodium lactate in a concentration of 0.65 to 0.75% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation

10. Cosmetic O / W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized

marked that the preparation contains no octocrylene (INCI octocrylene) and mineral oil.

1 1. Cosmetic O / W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains xantham gum (INCI Xantham gum).

12. Cosmetic O / W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized

characterized in that the preparation one or more UV filters selected from the group of compounds 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (INCI butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane), (2 - [- 4- (diethylamino) -2 -hydroxybenzoyl]

Hexyl benzoate (INCI: diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate) and 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1, 3, 5-triazine (INCI bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine), 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1, 1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) , Ethylhexyl salicylate,

Homomenthyl salicylate, dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexyl-Butamidotriazone), 4,4 ', 4 "- (1, 3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) -tris-benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester) (also: 2,4,6-tris [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone), 2,4,6- T contains ribiphenyl-4-yl-1, 3,5-triazine, titanium dioxide.

13. Cosmetic O / W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized

characterized in that the preparation contains phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerol and / or 4-hydroxyacetophenone.

14. Cosmetic O / W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized

characterized in that the preparation one or more alkanediols from the group of compounds 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 2-decanediol, 2-methyl

1, 3-propanediol contains.

15. Cosmetic O / W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized

characterized in that the preparation one or more compounds selected from the group of the compounds alpha-lipoic acid, folic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme

010, alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavo noide, flavonoids, creatine, creatinine, taurine, b-alanine, panthenol, magnolol, honokiol, tocopheryl acetate, dihydroxyacetone; 8-hexadecen-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid, glycerylglycose, (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, vitamin E or its derivatives, glycyrrhetic acid,

Contains hyaluronic acid and / or its salts and / or licochalcon A.