DE102018218740A1 - Cosmetic O / W emulsion with zinc oxide - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion) containda) polyglyceryl-10 stearate (INCI polyglyceryl-10 stearate) b) sorbitan stearate (INCI sorbitan stearate) c) zinc oxide) a pH buffer system made of lactic acid and sodium lactate, whereby the Emulsion is free of 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: oxybenzone), 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (INCI octylmethoxycinnamate), propylparaben, butylparaben, methylisothiazolinone, chloromethyl-DMothiazolin -Hydantoin, polyethylene glycol ethers and polyethylene glycol esters.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion) containing polyglyceryl-10 stearate (INCI polyglyceryl-10 stearate), sorbitan stearate (INCI sorbitan stearate), zinc oxide and a pH buffer system composed of lactic acid and sodium lactate, the emulsion being free of 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: oxybenzone), 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (INCI octylmethoxycinnamate), propylparaben, butylparaben, methylisothiazolinone, chloromolinonylchloroethyl chloromethyl and DMDM hydantoin, polyethylene glycol ethers and polyethylene glycol esters.

The trend away from the elegant pallor towards "healthy, sporty brown skin" has been going on for years. In order to achieve this, people expose their skin to the sun's radiation, since this causes pigment formation in the sense of melanin formation. However, the ultraviolet radiation from sunlight also has a damaging effect on the skin. In addition to acute damage (sunburn), long-term damage such as an increased risk of developing skin cancer occurs with excessive exposure to light from the UVB range (wavelength: 280-320 nm). The excessive exposure to UVB and UVA radiation (wavelength: 320-400 nm) also leads to a weakening of the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue. This leads to numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions and results in premature skin aging.

To protect the skin, a number of light protection filter substances have therefore been developed that can be used in cosmetic preparations. These UVA and UVB filters are summarized in most industrialized countries in the form of positive lists such as Appendix 7 of the Cosmetics Regulation.

However, the large number of commercially available sunscreens must not hide the fact that these preparations of the prior art have a number of disadvantages.

A particularly interesting UV filter from the UV spectrum is zinc oxide, which is used in the form of fine pigments (micropigments) analogous to titanium dioxide. A major reason why zinc oxide, in contrast to titanium dioxide, has so far not been able to properly establish itself in the cosmetic market as a UV filter is due to the fact that the use of zinc oxide leads to the pH value of the preparation being changed storage increases sharply. However, high pH values in cosmetic preparations are not only problematic from a skin physiological point of view, since high pH values destroy the skin's protective acid mantle. Such changes can also make the preparation itself unstable, since many ingredients are sensitive to pH. The emulsion system can be destroyed.

The problem of the increase in pH value due to zinc oxide arises especially with emulsion systems of the oil-in-water emulsion type (O / W emulsion), which is why zinc oxide-based sunscreens are primarily offered as W / O emulsions. O / W emulsions, on the other hand, are much more popular with consumers because of their sensory properties than W / O emulsions.

There has been no shortage of attempts in the prior art to deal with the problem of the pH increase in zinc oxide emulsions. For example, the expert knows that EP1102576 , in which mixtures of zinc oxide and UV filters with sulfonic acid function (eg phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid) are used. Various buffer systems have also been tested. Such systems usually fall short of expectations with regard to their stability. Furthermore, according to the prior art, they can only be stabilized with O / W emulsifiers (so-called PEG emulsifiers), such as PEG-100 stearates (for example in Arlacel 1650) and / or polyacrylates, which are insensitive to pH and contain polyethylene glycol groups. However, such ingredients are increasingly unpopular with consumers, as there are fears for health and the environment. Whether such concerns are scientifically justified can remain open in the context of the present disclosure. The fact is that consumers are increasingly asking for products that do not contain such ingredients and, for example, explicitly request "PEG-free" preparations.

It was therefore the object of the present invention to develop pH-stable, storage-stable, PEG-free O / W emulsions with zinc oxide as a UV filter.

1. a) Polyglyceryl-10 Stearat (INCI Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate)
2. b) Sorbitanstearat (INCI Sorbitan Stearate)
3. c) Zinkoxid
4. d) ein pH-Puffersystem aus Milchsäure und Natriumlactat,

wobei die Emulsion frei ist von 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)-campher, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon (INCI: Oxybenzon), 4-Methoxyzimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester (INCI Octylmethoxycinnamate), Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Methylisothiazolinon, Chlormethyl-isothiazolinon und DMDM-Hydantoin, Polyethylenglycolethern und Polyethylenglycolestern.The problem is solved surprisingly by a cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion) containing

1. a) Polyglyceryl-10 stearate (INCI Polyglyceryl-10 stearate)
2. b) Sorbitan stearate (INCI sorbitan stearate)
3. c) zinc oxide
4. d) a pH buffer system consisting of lactic acid and sodium lactate,

the emulsion being free from 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: oxybenzone), 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (INCI octylmethoxycinnamate), propylparaben, butylparaben, methylisothiazolinoth, chloromolinonylchloroethyl chloromethyl and DMDM hydantoin, polyethylene glycol ethers and polyethylene glycol esters.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the zinc oxide is coated with triethoxycaprylylsilane.

Embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the zinc oxide has a primary particle size between 20 and 100 nm. The primary particle size can be determined according to SCCS opinion (EC No. 1223/2009, Annex VI, No27a and 30a) using a CPS centrifuge or laser scattering method.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageous if the O / W emulsion contains the zinc oxide in an amount of 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation is free from acrylate polymers.

The O / W emulsion according to the invention contains a mixture of polyglyceryl 10 stearate and sorbitan stearate as the emulsifier system.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains polyglyceryl-10 stearate (INCI polyglyceryl-10 stearate) in a concentration of 1.44 to 2.40% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

With regard to the sorbitan stearate, it is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains sorbitan stearate (INCI sorbitan stearate) in a concentration of 1.26 to 2.10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

With regard to the buffer system, it has proven to be advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains lactic acid in a concentration of 0.55 to 0.60% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. It is preferred according to the invention to use the lactic acid in a concentration of 0.58 to 0.59% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

It is also advantageous according to the invention if the preparation contains sodium lactate in a concentration of 0.65 to 0.75% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. The preferred use concentration here is 0.7% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The advantageous embodiments of the present invention are characterized in that the preparation contains no octocrylene (INCI octocrylene) and mineral oil.

It is advantageous in the sense of the present invention if the preparation contains xantham gum (INCI Xantham Gum). In such a case, it is advantageous according to the invention if xantham gum is used in a concentration of 0.05 to 0.30% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

In addition to zinc oxide, the preparation according to the invention can advantageously contain further UV filters. It is preferred according to the invention if the preparation one or more UV filters selected from the group of compounds 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (INCI butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane), (2 - [- 4 - (Diethylamino) -2-hydroxybenzoyl] benzoic acid hexyl ester (INCI: diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate) and 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- ( 4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine), 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1, 3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol), ethylhexyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: diethylhexyl-butamidotriazone), 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris -benzoic acid tris (2-ethylhexyl ester) (also: 2, 4,6-tris [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone), 2,4,6-tribiphenyl-4- yl-1,3,5-triazine, titanium dioxide.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation according to the invention contains phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerol and / or 4-hydroxyacetophenone.

In addition, it is advantageous according to the invention if the preparation comprises one or more alkanediols from the group of the compounds 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,2-decanediol, 2-methyl-1, Contains 3-propanediol.

In addition, the preparation according to the invention can advantageously one or more compounds selected from the group of the compounds alpha-lipoic acid, folic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine, natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, flavonoids, creatine , Creatinine, taurine, ß-alanine, panthenol, magnolol, honokiol, tocopheryl acetate, dihydroxyacetone; 8-Hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid, glycerylglycose, (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, vitamin E or its derivatives, glycyrrhetic acid, hyaluronic acid and / or its salts and / or licochalcone A contain.

In addition, the O / W emulsion according to the invention can contain the usual ingredients for such preparations.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is advantageous if the preparation according to the invention is selected from the group of the compounds limonene, citral, linalool, alpha-isomethylionone, geraniol, citronellol, 2-isobutyl-4-hydroxy-4-methyltetrahydropyran, 2-tert-pentylcyclohexyl acetate, 3-methyl-5-phenyl-1-pentanol, 7-acetyl-1,1,3,4,4,6-hexamethyltetralin, adipic acid diester, alpha-amylcinnamaldehyde, alpha-methylionone, amyl C butylphenylmethylpropionalcinnamal, Amyl salicylate, amyl cinnamyl alcohol, anise alcohol, benzoin, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, benzyl cinnamate, benzyl salicylate, bergamot oil, bitter orange oil, butylphenylmethylpropioal, cardamomoline oil, cedrol, cinnamal, cinnamyl alcohol, citotonatoloalolinolethyl, citronatolinolinolethyl, citronatoluronol , Farnesol, guaiac wood oil, hexylcinnamal, hexyl salicylate, hydroxycitronellal, lavender oil, lemon oil, linaylacetate, mandarin contains oil, menthyl PCA, methylheptenone, nutmeg oil, rosemary oil, sweet orange oil, terpineol, tonka bean oil, triethyl citrate and / or vanillin.

The preparation according to the invention can advantageously contain humectants. Moisturizers are substances or mixtures of substances that give cosmetic preparations the property of reducing the release of moisture from the horny layer (also called transepidermal water loss (TEWL)) and / or hydrating the horny layer after application or distribution on the skin surface to positively influence.

Advantageous moisturizers in the context of the present invention are, for example, glycerol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, biosaccaride Gum-1, glycine soy, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and urea. Furthermore, it is particularly advantageous to use polymeric moisturizers from the group of water-soluble and / or water-swellable and / or water-gelable polysaccharides. For example, hyaluronic acid, chitosan and / or a fucose-rich polysaccharide are particularly advantageous. B. under the name Fucogel®1000 from the company SOLABIA S.A. is available. Moisturizers can also be used as anti-wrinkle agents to protect against skin changes, such as those found in B. occur in skin aging, are used.

The cosmetic preparations according to the invention can furthermore advantageously, although not necessarily, contain fillers which, for. B. further improve the sensory and cosmetic properties of the formulations and, for example, cause or intensify a velvety or silky feeling on the skin. Advantageous fillers for the purposes of the present invention are starch and starch derivatives (such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch, octenyl succinate and the like), pigments which have neither mainly UV filter nor coloring effects (such as e.g. B. Boron nitride, etc.) and / or Aerosile ^® (CAS No. 7631-86-9) and / or talc and / or polyethylene, nylon, silica, diethyl silicate.

It is preferred according to the invention if the preparation according to the invention contains silica dimethyl silylates.

Embodiments of the present invention which are advantageous according to the invention are characterized in that the preparation has one or more oils selected from the group of the compounds butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, phenethyl benzoate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, dibutyl adipate; Diisopropyl sebacate, dicaprylyl carbonate, di-C12-13 alkyl tartrate, butyl octyl salicylate, diethylhexyl syringylidene malonate, hydragenated castor oil dimerate, triheptanoin, C12-13 alkyl lactate, C16-17 alkyl benzoate, propylheptyl caprylric, hexlyceryl tricyclic acid, caprylic glycate, tricyclic acid, -Naphthalates, octyldodecanol, caprylic / capric triglycerides, ethylhexyl cocoate, contains.

It is preferred according to the invention if the preparation contains dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate and / or C12-C15 alkyl benzoate.

The water phase of the preparations according to the invention can advantageously contain customary cosmetic auxiliaries, such as, for example, electrolytes, self-tanners and in particular one or more thickeners, which one or more can advantageously be selected from the group consisting of silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates, polysaccharides or their derivatives, e.g. B. hyaluronic acid, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose. An ethanol content is also advantageous.

Examples

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, parts and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations. INCI Example1 Example2 Example3 Example4 Example5 Behenyl alcohol 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 3.00 Sorbitan stearate 1.80 2.10 2.10 1.80 1.80 Polyglyceryl-10 stearates 2.10 2.40 2.40 2.10 2.10 Titanium Dioxide + Silica + Dimethicone 10.00 10.00 10.00 Zinc Oxide (PPS 20nm) + Triethoxycaprylylsilane 8.00 Zinc Oxide (PPS 25nm) + Trieth oxycaprylylsilane 8.00 Zinc Oxide (PPS 80nm) + Trieth oxycaprylylsilane 8.00 8:00 pm Zinc Oxide (PPS 100nm) + Triethoxycaprylylsilane 8:00 pm C12-15 alkyl benzoates 8.00 8.00 Caprylic / Capric triglycerides 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate 8:00 pm 10.00 10.00 Polyhydroxystearates 1.80 1.50 1.50 2.00 2.00 Aqua 43.50 49.50 49.50 42.60 42.60 Glycerin 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Pentylene glycol 1.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Phenoxyethanol 0.60 Xanthan gum 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Sodium lactate 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.70 0.70 Lactic acid 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 Alcohol Denatured 3.00 3.00 3.00 Tapioca stung 1.70 total 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00 100.00

The pH stability (the pH shift) of these preparations was determined at room temperature (20 ° C.). Day Example1 Example2 Example3 Example4 Example5 Example1 without pH buffers 0 7.05 6.90 6.95 7.34 7.40 8.25 28 7.29 7.22 7.18 7.33 7.23 8.48 60 7.26 7.25 7.19 7.39 7.38 8.47 120 7.24 7.23 7.21 7.32 7.33 8.57 180 7.26 7.24 7.19 ND ND 8.50

Conclusion: The preparations according to the invention are significantly more pH-stable than the comparative example.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is only included for better information for the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Patent literature cited

• EP 1102576 [0007]

Claims (15)

Containing cosmetic oil-in-water emulsion (O / W-emulsion) a) Polyglyceryl-10 stearate (INCI Polyglyceryl-10 stearate) b) Sorbitan stearate (INCI sorbitan stearate) c) zinc oxide d) a pH buffer system consisting of lactic acid and sodium lactate, the emulsion being free from 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (INCI: oxybenzone), 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (INCI octylmethoxycinnamate ), Propyl paraben, butyl paraben, methyl isothiazolinone, chloromethyl isothiazolinone and DMDM hydantoin, polyethylene glycol ethers and polyethylene glycol esters. Cosmetic o / w emulsion after Claim 1 , characterized in that the zinc oxide is coated with triethoxycaprylylsilane. Cosmetic O / W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the zinc oxide has a primary particle size between 20 and 100 nm. Cosmetic O / W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains the zinc oxide in an amount of 0.1 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. Cosmetic O / W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation is free from acrylate polymers. Cosmetic O / W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation polyglyceryl-10 stearate (INCI polyglyceryl-10 stearate) in a concentration of 1.44 to 2.40% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation , contains. Cosmetic O / W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains sorbitan stearate (INCI sorbitan stearate) in a concentration of 1.26 to 2.10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation. Cosmetic O / W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains lactic acid in a concentration of 0.55 to 0.60% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation Cosmetic O / W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains sodium lactate in a concentration of 0.65 to 0.75% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation Cosmetic O / W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains no octocrylene (INCI octocrylene) and mineral oil. Cosmetic O / W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains xantham gum (INCI Xantham Gum). Cosmetic O / W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation one or more UV filters selected from the group of compounds 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (INCI butyl methoxydibenzoyl-methane) , (2 - [- 4- (Diethylamino) -2-hydroxybenzoyl] benzoic acid hexyl ester (INCI: diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate) and 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine), 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) - 4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol), ethylhexyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: diethylhexyl butamidotriazone), 4,4 ', 4 "- (1,3,5-triazine-2,4 , 6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid-tris (2-ethylhexyl ester) (also: 2,4,6-tris [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1.3 , 5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone), 2,4,6-tribiphenyl-4-yl-1,3,5-triazine, titanium dioxide. Cosmetic O / W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation contains phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerol and / or 4-hydroxyacetophenone. Cosmetic O / W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation comprises one or more alkanediols from the group of the compounds 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,2-decanediol , Contains 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol. Cosmetic O / W emulsion according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the preparation one or more compounds selected from the group of the compounds alpha-lipoic acid, folic acid, phytoene, D-biotin, coenzyme Q10, alpha-glucosylrutin, carnitine, carnosine , natural and / or synthetic isoflavonoids, flavonoids, creatine, creatinine, taurine, ß-alanine, panthenol, magnolol, honokiol, tocopheryl acetate, dihydroxyacetone; 8-Hexadecen-1,16-dicarboxylic acid, glycerylglycose, (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, vitamin E or its derivatives, glycyrrhetic acid, hyaluronic acid and / or its salts and / or licochalcon A contains.