WO2020064245A1 - Préparation cosmétique ayant des propriétés sensorielles uniques et un aspect attrayant - Google Patents

Préparation cosmétique ayant des propriétés sensorielles uniques et un aspect attrayant Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2020064245A1
WO2020064245A1 PCT/EP2019/072844 EP2019072844W WO2020064245A1 WO 2020064245 A1 WO2020064245 A1 WO 2020064245A1 EP 2019072844 W EP2019072844 W EP 2019072844W WO 2020064245 A1 WO2020064245 A1 WO 2020064245A1
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weight
cosmetic preparation
preparation according
powder
dimethicone
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PCT/EP2019/072844
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English (en)
Inventor
Jarod LI
Fasong LI
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf Ag
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Priority to CN201980062276.3A priority Critical patent/CN112752561A/zh
Publication of WO2020064245A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020064245A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/022—Powders; Compacted Powders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention belongs to the cosmetic field and relates to a cosmetic preparation which is provided in form of a bouncy cream.
  • a beautiful and attractive appearance is a desire for many people.
  • One typical sign of such an appearance is a healthy and smooth looking skin. Therefore, in order to take care on the skin, it is for many people a daily routine to apply cosmetic products such as caring and moisturizing products.
  • emulsions are understood as heterogeneous sys tems consisting of at least two liquids which are immiscible or have only a limited miscibility with each another. Said liquids are usually referred to as phases. In an emulsion consisting of two phases, one of the two liquids is dispersed in the form of very fine droplets in the other liquid. The liquids (pure or as solutions) are present in an emulsion in a more or less fine dis tribution, which is generally of only limited stability.
  • this composition is called an oil-in-water emulsion (O W emulsion, e.g. milk).
  • O W emulsion oil-in-water emulsion
  • the basic properties of an O W emulsion are determined by the water, the basic properties being for example electrical conductivity, sensory properties, ability of the continuous phase to be stained.
  • W/O emulsion e.g. butter
  • the basic properties are determined by the oil or oily phase.
  • Emulsions intended to be sold as cosmetic preparations have to be stable over a definite period of time, generally one year after opening the cos metic preparation.
  • W/O- emulsions, gels or oil based compositions usually cannot provide all of the sensory properties mentioned above at the same time.
  • the O/W-emulsions typically leave the skin with a wet feeling with some stickiness.
  • the skin is described as being usually a bit greasy and wet.
  • Aqueous gel preparations always leave the skin wet, and after the application of oil based preparations the skin feels always oily. Said preparations cannot provide a silky, powdery and dry feeling on the skin.
  • cosmetic preparations providing the skin with care and nourishment could be made available in form of bouncy creams, which could be described as a“marshmallow creams”.
  • Said creams are very soft, silky, smooth, powdery and leave a dry feeling on the skin, without any feeling of wetness and stickiness.
  • Balm contains cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, dimethicone/vi- nyl dimethicone crosspolymer, vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, silica, ceresin, cetyl ethylhexanoate, cyclohexasiloxane, titanium dioxide, bis-PEG/PPG- 14/14 Dimethicone, Camelia Sinensis seed oil, Limnates Alba (meadowfoam) seed oil, glyc eryl linoleate, glyceryl linolenate, glyceryl arachidonate, lecethin, butylene glycol, glycerin, creatine, TEA-cococo
  • a further aim was to improve the sensory properties of balms in comparison to balms already on the market.
  • a soft powdery, silky and dry feeling on the skin was of im portance. This feeling should be persistent, although oily components were included, which should provide care for the skin.
  • the appearance of the balm should be bouncy and creamy, and the preparation should have an elastic texture.
  • At least one oily component selected from hydrocarbon components having at least 12 carbon atoms; esters from alcohols, having at least three carbon atoms and 2 or 3 hy droxyl groups, and organic acids having alkyl residues of more than 1 1 carbon atoms; ethers having in total at least 12 carbon atoms and being derived from alcohols having 2 to 22 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxyl group; fatty acids having alkyl residues of at least 1 1 carbon atoms; fatty alcohols having alkyl residues of at least 1 1 carbon atoms; cyclic compounds, being carbocycles or heterocycles and having at least 6 car bon atoms; and mixtures thereof,
  • the cosmetic preparation of the invention is intended for leave-on.
  • the cosmetic preparation of the invention may contain water.
  • the amount of water ranges from 0 to 50 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition. Water may be used to bring the total weight of the composition to 100 % by weight.
  • further components may be contained, selected from perfume, thickening agent(s), pigment(s) and/or UV filter(s).
  • At least one lipophilic powder is contained in the cosmetic preparation of the invention.
  • the lipophilic powder has lipophilic residues on the surface, thus permitting an interaction with further lipophilic components in the preparation. Without being bound to theory, it is believed that the lipophilic powder causes a thickening of the oily component(s) and thus contributes to provide a preparation having a structure.
  • the lipophilic powder by interacting with the oily components reduces or prevents an oily feeling of the preparation and an oily feeling on the skin. The resulting sensory impression of the preparation and the feeling on the skin is a smooth one.
  • the at least one lipophilic powder is selected from
  • inorganic powder preferably talc, modified talc and/or kaolin,
  • At least one silicone based crosspolymer powder preferably a dimethicone crosspoly mer powder
  • At least one methacrylate/acrylate-based polymer powder preferably PMMA (polyme thyl methacrylate) powder.
  • a combination of lipophilic powders selected from inorganic powders and silicone based crosspolymer powder is contained, it is further more preferred, if the weight ratio of inorganic powders and silicone based crosspolymer powder is 3:1 to 25:1 , es pecially 15:1 to 20:1. It is even further more preferred, if talc and a dimethicone/vinyl dimethi cone crosspolymer powder are contained. Likewise, it is even further more preferred, if only a dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer powder is contained. Suitable talc may be pur chased Omya with the trade name Microtalc Pharma 8. Dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone cross polymer powder may be purchased as DowsilTM 9701 Cosmetic Powder from Dow Chemical Company.
  • Talc modified with magnesium myristate for example provided by KOBO as TALC N/MM3
  • talc modified with stearoyl glutamic acid for example provided by KOBO as TALC N-ASG4
  • talc treated with Dimethicone and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Stearic Acid (and) Ceramide NP (and) Phytosterols, for example provided by KOBO as TALC G8-DS-PDL3
  • TALC G8-DS-PDL3 are examples for modified talc powders.
  • Kaolin may be purchased from Quarzwerke as Pharmakaolin B 860, from Merck as“Weisser Ton innerlich” Art Nr. 105006.
  • Silica treated with dimethyldichlorosilane for example provided as AEROSIL ® R 972 by Evo- nik is an example for surface modified silica.
  • the at least one lipophilic pow der is contained in a total amount from 0.5 to 30 % by weight, preferably 5 to 25 % by weight, and more preferably 10 to 20 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation. If the at least one lipophilic powder is selected from inorganic powder, the inorganic powder is contained in an amount of 10 to 25 % by weight, preferably 14 to 19 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.
  • the at least one lipophilic powder is selected from at least one silicone based crosspolymer powder
  • the at least one silicone based crosspolymer powder is contained in an amount of 0.5 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 2.5 to 3.5 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.
  • At least one hydrophilic powder is contained in the cosmetic preparation according to the in vention.
  • the hydrophilic powder has a hydrophilic surface and thus will interact with mainly hydrophilic components of the preparation.
  • the hydrophilic powder is distributed in the hy drophilic phase of the preparation resulting in an overall preparation in form of a suspension. Without being bound to theory, it is believed that the hydrophilic powder is a main part in providing the bouncy texture and the smooth sensory properties of the product. It is pre ferred, if the hydrophilic powder is selected from modified starch powders, non-modified starch powders and mixtures thereof; from silica, and mixtures of all kinds of said hydrophilic powders.
  • starch powder in a modified and/or non-modified form is con- tained; it is most preferred, if the starch powder is a modified one, especially distarch phos phate powder.
  • distarch phosphate powder may be purchased from Solvad is with the tradename Corn P04 PH"B".
  • the at least one hydrophilic powder is contained in a total amount of 1 to 60 % by weight, preferably 2 to 30 % by weight, more preferably 5 to 20 % by weight in the preparation according to the invention, relative to the total weight of the preparation.
  • At least one oily component selected from:
  • hydrocarbon components having at least 12 carbon atoms having at least 12 carbon atoms
  • ethers having in total at least 12 carbon atoms and being derived from alcohols having
  • cyclic compounds being carbocycles or heterocycles and having at least 6 carbon at oms
  • the oily component(s) may interact with the skin, due to this interaction they provide care and moisture to the skin.
  • This class of components may be called emollients.
  • esters are contained. It is more preferred, if the alcoholic com ponent of the ester is glycerine. It is even more preferred, if all three hydroxyl residues of glycerine have been reacted with an acid, namely esters in form of triglycerides. It is further more preferred, if the acid is a mixture of medium chain fatty acids, especially a mixture of capric acid and caprylic acid. It is thus most preferred, if the oily component is caprylic/capric triglyceride.
  • the at least one oily component is contained in a total amount of 1 to 60 % by weight, preferably 2 to 40 % by weight, more preferably 5 to 20 % by weight in the cosmetic preparation according to the invention, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.
  • silicones are synthetic polymers containing silicium atoms con nected via oxygen atoms.
  • the functional unit consisting of silicium atom and oxygen atom is called siloxane.
  • siloxane The functional unit consisting of silicium atom and oxygen atom.
  • Dimethicones are arranged in a linear way, each silicium atom having two methyl residues and the silicium atoms at the ends having three methyl residues. Dimethicones are varying in length. The differing length accounts for differing viscosity values. Therefore dimethicones can be characterized by these values.
  • Commercial products have a viscosity values between 1 centistokes (cst) and 1 ,000,000 cst.
  • the lower viscosity products are miscible for example with mineral oil and isopropyl myristate and are useful for aerosol applications.
  • the products having 100 - 500 cst are the traditional silicones used as additives in skin care formulations and products char acterized by higher viscosities are used in barrier products or in hair products.
  • the viscosity values are referring to those values which are given by the suppliers of the respective sili cone components to characterize these components.
  • cyclomethicones consisting of 4, 5, or 6 si loxane units, respectively called cyclotetrasiloxane (D4), cyclopentasiloxane (D5) and cyclo- hexasiloxane (D6).
  • the preparations according to the invention may contain one or more dime thicones and/or one or more cyclomethicones.
  • the preferred dimethicones are those having viscosity values of 1 to 100 cst. More preferred is a dimethicone having a viscosity value of 5 cst, which for instance, may be purchased from BRB as BRB DM 5.
  • the one or more dimethicone(s) is/are contained in a total amount of 5 to 60 % by weight, preferably 7.5 to 30 % by weight, and more preferably 10 to 20 % by weight in the composition according to the invention, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.
  • the preferred cyclomethicone is a cyclomethicone having 5 to 6 siloxane units.
  • a suitable cy- clomethicone may be purchased as Xiameter PMX-0345 Cyclosiloxane from Dow Corning or BRB CM 56 from BRB or SF0015Z from KCC.
  • the one or more cyclomethicone(s) is/are contained in a total amount of 5 to 60 % by weight, preferably 10 to 40 % by weight, and more preferably 15 to 30 % by weight in the composition according to the invention, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.
  • the viscosity values may be determined according to CTM 0004 (Dow Corning) or
  • dimethicone crosspolymers are generated, which are characterized by a network.
  • Said crosspolymers are silicone elastomers.
  • Dimethicone cross polymers are rheology modifiers in O/W- and W/O-emulsions and influence the texture of the preparations they are contained in.
  • the total amount ranges from 0.1 to 10 % by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5.0 % by weight, in relation to the active content of the dimethicone cross polymers and in relation to the total weight of the preparation.
  • Dimethicone crosspolymers are available as combinations with cyclopentasiloxane or low viscosity dimethicone, which may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • a preferred dimethicone cross polymer is blend of dimethicone and dimethicone crosspolymer, available as Dowsil 9041 Sil icone Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning. If a dimethicone crosspolymer blend is contained in the preparation of the present invention, the total amount ranges from 1.0 to 60 % by weight, preferably 5.0 to 50 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.
  • the cyclomethicone(s) may be substituted by non-silicone components hav ing a comparable function.
  • Isoparaffines for instance isodecane and/or isododecane and/or dicaprylyl dicarbonate may be contained.
  • the lipophilic powder(s), the dimethicone crosspolymer and the oily component(s) are form ing a thickened oily phase.
  • the aqueous phase containing hydrophilic components and the hydrophilic powder, may be thickened by a thickening agent. This aqueous phase is added to the oily phase and suspended.
  • the hydrophilic powder may be present in form of particles or aggregated particles.
  • one or more thickening agent(s) is/ may be contained. If said thickening agents are contained, they are advantageously chosen from
  • the total amount of the one or more thickening agent(s) range(s) from 0.05 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 3.0 % by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • the preparation may contain UV filters.
  • the main purpose of the present preparations is not a protection against sunlight, but nevertheless they have a con tent of UV protection substances.
  • the preparation according to the invention may contain one or more UV filters selected from 2-phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonic acid and/or salts thereof; phenylen-1 ,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3’-5,5’-tetra sulfonic acid and/or salts thereof; 1 ,4-di(2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-benzene and salts thereof; 4-(2-oxo-
  • the preparations according to the invention advantageously comprise the substances which absorb UV radiation in the UV-A and/or UV-B region in a total amount of, for example, from 0.1 % to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations, in order to provide cos metic preparations which protect the hair and/or the skin from the entire range of ultraviolet radiation.
  • the cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention may comprise dyes and/or color pigments.
  • the dyes and color pigments may be chosen from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Directive or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to dyes approved for foods.
  • Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide (Cl 77891 ), mica, iron oxides (e.g. Fe 2 0 3 (CI 77491 ), Fe 3 0 4 , FeO(OH)) and/or tin oxide.
  • Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Prussian blue, chromium ox ide green, ultramarine blue and/or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and/or the color pigments from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd Edition, Society of Dyers and Colorists, Bradford, England, 1971.
  • oil-soluble natural dyes such as, for example, paprika extracts, b-carotene or cochineal.
  • the total amount of the one or more dye(s) and/or color pigment(s) ranges from 0.01 to 5 % by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 3 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.
  • a combination of colorants together with additional substances is added to the preparation.
  • Such a combination may contain or con sist of Cl 77891 and Cl 77941 together with PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxylethyl Dimethicone and Aluminum hydroxide and Triethoxycaprylylsilane and may be purchased as MBCP from Daito Kasei Kogyo.
  • the amount of said combination ranges from 0.01 to 2.0 % by weight, preferably 0.05 to 1.0 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the preparation.
  • perfume is contained supporting the unique appearance of the preparation according to the invention. It is believed that the interaction of the lipophilic powder and dimethicone crosspolymer helps to generate the elastic and bouncy texture of the preparation according to the invention.
  • Fig.1 is photos showing the difference of texture between the present invention (B) and the prior art (A) before press (upper part) and after press (lower part), respectively.
  • preparations according to the invention illustrated by the examples above may be produced by any technique suitable to produce this kind of preparations. However, it is recommended to produce the preparations according to the invention by the following method:
  • phase A optionally add pigments and/or UV filters to the phase A and stir or homogenize -> phase B;
  • the sensory evaluation was done by a panel evaluation method.
  • Panelists 10 trained panelists took part in the evaluation.
  • the skin of the arms, espe cially forearms of the panelists was characterized as normal skin.
  • Panel Room Temperature: 23-27 ° C, humidity: 50-60%.
  • the panelist starts a timer and begins to massage the product, meanwhile evaluating the sensory impression during the application.
  • NIVEA Creme was used as an example for an O/W-emulsion.
  • the INCI listing discloses the following components:
  • Aqua paraffinum liquidum, cera microcristallina, glycerine, lanolin alcohol (Eucerit®), paraf fine, panthenol, magnesium sulfate, decyl oleate, octyldodecanol, aluminum stearates, citric acid, magnesium stearate, limonene, geraniol, hydroxycitronellal, linalool, citronellol, benzyl benzoate, cinnamyl alcohol, perfume.
  • Nivea Sparkling White Day Cream was used as an example for W/O-emulsion.
  • the INCI list ing discloses the following components:
  • a preparation according to the invention (example 1 , called B in Figure 1 ) was prepared. This preparation was compared to a market product, namely TONYMOLY Egg Pore Silky Smooth Balm (Mintel Database number 4954639) (called A in Figure 1 ).
  • Silky Smooth Balm contains cyclopenatasiloxane, dimethicone, dimethicone/vinyl dime thicone crosspolymer, vinyl dimethicone/ methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer, silica, cer- esin, cetyl ethylhexanoate, cyclohexasiloxhane, vinegar, egg shell powder, titanium dioxide (Cl 77891 ), bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 dimethicone, tocopheryl acetate, Camelia Sinensis seed oil, Limnates Alba (meadowfoam) seed oil, glyceryl linoleate, glyceryl linolenate, glyceryl arachi- donate, propylparaben, fragrance.
  • the preparation according to the invention has an appearance, which is more compact, remembering to a“marshmallow”.
  • the preparation of the market product looks more like a foam, being fluffy und relatively unstable.
  • the preparation of the market product divides in several part, be cause the texture is not elastic and bouncy.
  • the preparation according to the invention does not break apart and keeps its bouncy and elastic texture.
  • the evaluation referring to wetness shows that the preparations of the invention (examples 4 to 6) do not leave a wet feeling on the skin as the emulsions do.
  • the stickiness of the skin immediately after absorption is much lesser after the applica tion of the preparations of the invention (examples 4 to 6) than after the application of emul sions.
  • a reduced greasiness can be noticed after application and absorption of the preparations of the invention (examples 4 to 6) compared to emulsions.
  • the products of the invention are evaluated better than products in form of an O/W-emulsion or W/O-emulsion, which are more conventional product forms.
  • the scores for stickiness are better for the products according to the invention than those referring to known O/W-emulsions.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne le domaine cosmétique, et concerne une préparation cosmétique contenant au moins une poudre lipophile, au moins une poudre hydrophile et au moins un composant huileux. La préparation cosmétique présente des propriétés sensorielles uniques et un aspect attrayant.
PCT/EP2019/072844 2018-09-29 2019-08-27 Préparation cosmétique ayant des propriétés sensorielles uniques et un aspect attrayant WO2020064245A1 (fr)

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US20080193395A1 (en) * 2007-02-14 2008-08-14 Beiersdorf Ag Cosmetic preparation with vinylpyrrolidone/acrylic acid copolymer
DE102010063894A1 (de) * 2010-12-22 2012-06-28 Beiersdorf Ag Kosmetische oder dermatologische Lichtschutzzubereitungen mit hohem Silikonölgehalt umfassend eine Kombination aus Polyacrylat- und Polyacrylamidverdicker
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