WO2020062388A1 - 一种新会柑花萃取液制作面膜的配方及工艺 - Google Patents

一种新会柑花萃取液制作面膜的配方及工艺 Download PDF

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WO2020062388A1
WO2020062388A1 PCT/CN2018/112352 CN2018112352W WO2020062388A1 WO 2020062388 A1 WO2020062388 A1 WO 2020062388A1 CN 2018112352 W CN2018112352 W CN 2018112352W WO 2020062388 A1 WO2020062388 A1 WO 2020062388A1
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extract
xinhui citrus
mask
citrus flower
flower extract
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PCT/CN2018/112352
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French (fr)
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温伟成
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温伟成
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/98Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
    • A61K8/987Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin of species other than mammals or birds
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0212Face masks
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/498Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/678Tocopherol, i.e. vitamin E
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/736Chitin; Chitosan; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9728Fungi, e.g. yeasts
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08Anti-ageing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/70Biological properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/72Hypo-allergenic

Definitions

  • the invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a formula and a process for making a facial mask from Xinhui citrus flower extract.
  • Human aging has three stages. The first stage is mild aging, 25-35 years old, with slight wrinkles, dull skin, dark spots, and decreased immunity. The second stage is moderate aging, 35-45 years old, mood swings, irritability, anxiety, severe pigmentation, dry skin, reduced elasticity, enlarged pores, and deepened wrinkles. The third stage is severe aging, 45-55 years of age, the human body enters a rapid aging period, the body is fully aging, and various diseases are entangled; after menopause, women are about 45 years old, due to ovarian atrophy, estrogen secretion decreases, skin dehydration and wrinkling Increasing body weight is more likely to cause psychological anxiety, depression and other mental illness.
  • Free radicals are an important cause of skin aging. Air pollution, stress, and drugs can cause free radicals in the body. Free radicals contain one or more unpaired electrons or molecules that have a tendency to pair. Therefore, most free radicals are active and highly chemically active. Under normal circumstances, free radicals in the human body are in a dynamic balance of constant production and elimination. However, free radicals are produced too much or are removed too slowly. By attacking macromolecular substances and various cells, it can cause various damage to the body, accelerate the aging process of the body, and show changes in aging, such as aging pigmentation, skin Wrinkling and so on.
  • Anti-aging does not mean that people increase their lifespan, but it is against the life-span factors caused by the human body's continuous contact with the outside world, including breathing (oxidation reaction), external pollution, radiation exposure and other factors that constantly generate free radicals in the human body.
  • the first object of the present invention is to provide a formula for making facial masks of Xinhui Citrus Flower Extract, which uses Xinhui Citrus Flower Extract in combination with other antioxidants, which is mild, non-irritating and can accelerate the skin.
  • Cells self-renew and repair, with significant anti-aging, whitening and moisturizing effects, can quickly improve skin texture, improve skin elasticity, and smooth wrinkles.
  • a formula for making a facial mask from Xinhui Citrus Flower Extract containing the following mass percentage components:
  • the antioxidant complex includes yeast extract, angelica extract, peony root extract, glycyrrhizin, arbutin, chitosan, vitamin E, deionized water, butanediol.
  • Flavonoids have significant physiological activities. Flavonoids have good antioxidant activity and can reduce the harm of free radicals to varying degrees. A large number of studies have shown that flavonoids SOD and GSH-Px both have the effect of scavenging active oxidative free radicals in the human body and prevent the oxidation of biofilm lipids by superoxide radicals and hydroxyl radicals, as well as similar effects to vitamin E.
  • the new citrus flavonoid flower extract does not contain any hazardous components and anti-nutritional factors, its mechanism of action in that it prevents generation of free radicals in vivo three stages: (1) and O 2 - ⁇ Reaction Blocking the chain reaction caused by free radicals; (2) chelating with metal ions to block free radical generation; (3) reacting with lipid peroxy to block the process of lipid peroxidation, which is non-toxic and side effects to the human body, and has extremely Great safety; moreover, the structure is stable and it is not easy to be degraded; it can penetrate deep into the lesion and directly exert its effect.
  • Pearl powder itself contains three trace elements such as manganese, copper, and zinc, which are components of SOD. Coating with pearl powder can promote the activity of superoxide dismutase in human skin, inhibit the synthesis of melanin, and keep the skin fair. In addition, because SOD has the effect of scavenging free radicals, coating with pearl powder can prevent skin aging and wrinkling.
  • Yeast extract contains a large amount of nutrients such as polysaccharides, oligopeptides, amino acids, vitamins, etc.
  • nutrients such as polysaccharides, oligopeptides, amino acids, vitamins, etc.
  • oligopeptides can compete with tyrosinase for substrates to form stable conjugates, thereby reducing the synthesis of dopa and dopaquinone , Thereby reducing the formation of melanin; the rich vitamin A and vitamin C contained at the same time have good whitening effect.
  • Angelica sinensis extract has a strong inhibitory effect on tyrosinase, and has the effect of removing freckles and making the skin tender and shiny.
  • the polysaccharide of Angelica sinensis also has anti-oxidation, anti-radiation damage, promotion of immune activity, and inhibition of tumors. Applying it to the face can also promote blood circulation.
  • tyrosinase has the function of catalyzing the production of tyrosine by L-dopa and further catalyzing the production of tyrosine by melanin.
  • angelica extract to inhibit tyrosinase activity can play a role in whitening. After the skin cells are oxidized, harmful substances will be generated to invade the skin. Angelica extract can remove free radicals and achieve antioxidant effects.
  • Paeonia root extract contains paeoniflorin, which can inhibit the production of O 2 free radicals in the cell, inhibit the conversion of dopaquinone to melatonin, and whiten the skin; it is also rich in vitamins B and E, which can protect the skin from ultraviolet radiation To prevent the formation of melanin.
  • Glycyrrhizin is an extract of Glycyrrhiza glabra, which mainly inhibits melanin production by inhibiting active oxygen generation and tyrosinase. It is mainly responsible for effectively inhibiting the conversion of dopa to melanin, thereby reducing the formation of sunburn and melanin on the skin surface. It stays deep inside the skin and maintains high activity, whitening and effective anti-oxidation.
  • Arbutin has the ability to inhibit the key enzyme-tyrosinase activity in the production of melanin, and also has the effect of absorbing ultraviolet rays. Because arbutin is structurally similar to tyrosine, it can compete with tyrosine to bind tyrosinase in the process of tyrosine synthesis of melanin, thereby reducing the ability of tyrosinase to catalyze the synthesis of melanin by tyrosine effect.
  • Chitosan is an oligomeric water-soluble chitosan with bacteriostatic and bactericidal properties. On the one hand, it can inhibit or kill harmful microorganisms on the skin surface, and prevent the occurrence of acne and acne. On the other hand, it can be used as the present invention.
  • the preservatives and bactericides in the mask essence eliminate the need for additional antiseptic and germicidal ingredients. Oligochitosan has a smaller molecular weight and is easier to be absorbed by the skin than macromolecule chitosan. It can penetrate directly into the skin and even cells through the pores, eliminating melanin and pigmentation caused by microbial accumulation, and inhibiting melanin formation.
  • the tyrosinase activity can achieve whitening effect, and at the same time, it can specifically activate Langerhans cells in the skin, thereby achieving the functions of enhancing skin defense function, sun protection, moisturizing, and enhancing skin self-repair.
  • Vitamin E is a fat-soluble natural antioxidant that can capture free radicals caused by ultraviolet rays and eliminate the erosion of free radicals on the human body. It can interrupt the chain reaction of free radicals, protect the stability of cell membranes, and prevent lipid peroxidation on the membrane. E has the effect of maintaining the elasticity of connective tissue and promoting blood circulation of blood vessels. It can protect cell membranes from oxidative damage, remove spots, and inhibit melanin production.
  • the function of Xinhui Citrus Flower Extract in the mask of the present invention also includes synergizing with other components to make the skin smoother and more translucent, and its total flavonoid amount and type are a standard for its quality.
  • the Xinhui citrus flower extract of the present invention uses carbon dioxide supercritical extraction technology.
  • the total flavonoid content in the Xinhui citrus flower extract extracted by this technology can be greater than 10%, which is significantly higher than the content extracted by other methods and has an environment. Friendly and energy saving.
  • the content of the Xinhui citrus flower extract is less than 5.0%, its effect is small; when the content of the Xinhui citrus flower extract is greater than 8.0%, the mask of the present invention is exposed to light And easy to discolor when heat-resistant at 45 °C. Therefore, the content of Xinhui Citrus Flower Extract is 5.0-8.0%.
  • antioxidant complex includes the following components in mass percentage:
  • step 2) The liquid obtained in step 2) is concentrated under reduced pressure to obtain the Xinhui citrus flower extract.
  • the method for preparing the yeast extract is: taking live yeast and adding 20-50 times its weight of deionized water, auto-dissolving at 80-95 ° C for 1-2 hours; adding yeast extraction enzyme, papain, alkaline Protease, neutral protease, acid protease, nuclease, complex enzyme, glutaminase and deaminase, adjust the temperature to 40-60 ° C, adjust the pH to 4.5-7.0, and hydrolyze for 10-20h; after the enzymolysis is completed, heat The yeast extract was obtained by inactivating at 80-85 ° C for 1-2 hours, centrifuging at 4000-6000r / min for 10-30min, and drying the supernatant in a vacuum drying box at 50-60 ° C to constant weight.
  • the angelica extract is prepared by taking angelica powder and adding 10-20 times its weight of deionized water, extracting it twice under reflux, 1-3h each time, filtering and combining; concentrating the filtrate and adding 95 % Ethanol to 70% ethanol concentration, dried in a vacuum drying box at 50-60 ° C. to constant weight to obtain the angelica extract.
  • the preparation method of the peony root extract is as follows: take the peony root powder and add 5-10 times its weight of 95% ethanol, shake well, seal, and extract it at 40 ° C in a constant temperature shaking water bath for 1-3h; extract The solution was centrifuged in a centrifuge tube at 4000-6000 r / min for 10-30 minutes, and the supernatant was dried in a vacuum drying box at 50-60 ° C to constant weight to obtain the peony root extract.
  • the cosmetic excipient matrix includes the following components in mass percentage:
  • humectant 0.01-2.0% chelating agent, 0.05-5.0% thickener, 0.1-40.0% emollient, 0.01-37.0% skin conditioner, 0.01-1.0% fragrance, 20.0-98.0% deionized water.
  • the humectant is one of glycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, butanediol, hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, allantoin, sorbitol, and betaine.
  • the chelating agent is one or more of disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, citric acid, and sodium citrate;
  • the thickener is an ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / VP copolymer, sodium polyacrylate, sodium acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, Polyacrylate-13, ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / behenyl alcohol polyether-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / acryloyl dimethyl taurine copolymer
  • ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / VP copolymer sodium polyacrylate, sodium acrylic acid (ester) copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, Polyacrylate-13, ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / behenyl alcohol polyether-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate / acryloyl dimethyl taurine copolymer
  • the skin moisturizer is mineral oil, isohexadecane, shea butter, olive oil, polydimethylsiloxane, caprylic / capric triglyceride, triglyceride (ethylhexanoate), and shark One or more of alkane, ethylhexyl palmitate, hydrogenated polydecene, cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane;
  • the skin conditioning agent is ⁇ -mannan, sodium hyaluronate, sodium PCA, betaine, polyquaternium-51, fructan, malto-oligosaccharide glucoside, hydrogenated starch hydrolysate, wrinkle carrageen (CHONDRUS CRISPUS) one or more of an extract, chitosan, ⁇ -glucan, and creatine.
  • a second object of the present invention is to provide a process for making a facial mask from the Xinhui citrus flower extract, which is simple and fast to prepare.
  • a process for making a facial mask from Xinhui Citrus Flower Extract includes the following steps:
  • the antioxidant complex includes yeast extract, angelica extract, peony root extract, glycyrrhizin, arbutin, chitosan, vitamin E, deionized water, butanediol;
  • the cosmetic accessory matrix includes a humectant, a chelating agent, a thickener, an emollient, a skin conditioner, a flavor, and deionized water;
  • step S2 Add the deionized water, humectant, chelating agent and thickener provided in step S1 to the water phase pot, heat to 80-85 ° C, stir and disperse evenly, and use it as phase A;
  • step S3 Add the emollient provided in step S1 to the oil phase pot, heat to 75-80 ° C, stir and disperse evenly, and use it as phase B;
  • step S4 Pump phase A obtained in step S2 and phase B obtained in step S3 into the emulsification pot, homogenize at high speed for 5-10 minutes, turn on the cooling circulating water, stir and lower the temperature, and when the temperature drops to 45-50 ° C, change the Skin conditioner, Xinhui citrus flower extract, pearl powder, antioxidant complex, and flavor were added to the emulsifying pot, homogenized for 1-3 minutes, and continued to be stirred and cooled to a temperature below 38 ° C to obtain a mask essence;
  • the non-woven mask sheet is fixed with a pearlescent film, folded into an aluminum foil bag, and then put into a mask full-automatic filling machine after ozone sterilization.
  • the mask essence obtained in step S4 is filled to obtain a mask product.
  • Non-woven material is an environmentally friendly material, which is moisture-proof, breathable, flexible, lightweight, etc. It can absorb a large amount of essence and is not easy to drip. Its biggest feature is that it is easy to use. It can be used directly after tearing off the sealed bag without cleaning. After use, the skin can become hydrated and plump, smooth and bright, long-term use, it can reduce skin fine lines and firm skin.
  • the present invention provides a formula for making facial masks from Xinhui citrus flower extract, which uses a combination of Xinhui citrus flower extract, pearl powder and antioxidant complex, and contains a variety of anti-aging and whitening ingredients.
  • Ingredients can inhibit the generation of free radicals and speed up the elimination of free radicals; by combining these effective ingredients in a certain proportion, they can synergistically reduce skin free radicals, have a mild action, have no irritation, and can accelerate the self-renewal and repair of skin cells.
  • Anti-aging, whitening and moisturizing effect can quickly improve skin texture, improve skin elasticity, and smooth wrinkles.
  • FIG. 1 is a flow chart of a process for making a facial mask from Xinhui Citrus Flower Extract.
  • the invention discloses a formula for making a facial mask by using Xinhui citrus flower extract, comprising the following components in mass percentage:
  • the antioxidant complex includes yeast extract, angelica extract, peony root extract, glycyrrhizin, arbutin, chitosan, vitamin E, deionized water, butanediol.
  • test instruments and reagents are commercially available products and are all commercially available.
  • yeast extraction enzyme papain, alkaline protease, neutral protease, acid protease, nuclease, complex enzyme, glutamine
  • yeast extraction enzyme papain, alkaline protease, neutral protease, acid protease, nuclease, complex enzyme, glutamine
  • yeast extraction enzyme adjust the temperature to 50 ° C, adjust the pH to 5.5, and hydrolyze for 15h
  • heat to 85 ° C inactivate for 2h, centrifuge at 5000r / min for 20min, and take the supernatant to dry at 55 ° C under vacuum. Dry to constant weight in the box to obtain yeast extract.
  • Angelica extract is obtained.
  • the components of the antioxidant complex are shown in Table 2.
  • Component name content water 39.90g Butanediol 48.55g Yeast extract 3.05g Angelica extract 2.55g Paeonia lactiflora root extract 1.65g Glycyrrhizin 1.45g Chitosan 1.40g Arbutin 0.75g Vitamin E 0.70g
  • step S2 Deionized water, glycerin, 1.3-butanediol, allantoin, EDTA-2NA, polyacrylate-13, acryldimethylammonium taurine / VP copolymer, and polydimethylamine provided in step S1 Siloxane is added to the water phase pot, heated to 85 ° C, stirred and dispersed uniformly, as phase A;
  • step S3 Add the shea butter, isohexadecane and squalane provided in step S1 to an oil phase pan, heat to 80 ° C, stir and disperse evenly, and use it as phase B;
  • step S4 Pump phase A obtained in step S2 and phase B obtained in step S3 into the emulsifying pot, homogenize at high speed for 10 minutes, turn on the cooling circulating water, and stir to cool down.
  • the sodium hyaluronate in step S1 Betaine, creatine, Xinhui citrus flower extract, pearl powder, antioxidant complex, and flavor were added to the emulsifying pot, homogenized for 2 minutes, and continued to be cooled to a temperature below 38 ° C to obtain a mask essence;
  • the non-woven mask paper is fixed with a pearlescent film, folded into an aluminum foil bag, and then put into a mask full-automatic filling machine after ozone sterilization, filling 20 g of the mask essence prepared in step S4 to obtain a mask product .
  • the antioxidant complex was prepared according to Table 2.
  • Test method The mask essence of Examples 1-4 was subjected to patch test. Select a qualified spot tester and use a closed patch test method to place the test object in an amount of about 0.020 to 0.025 mL. Place an external medical tape on the subject's back. Remove the test object after 24 hours. The skin reactions were observed 0.5, 24, and 48 hours after the patch was removed, and the results were recorded according to the skin reaction grading standards in the "Cosmetic Safety Technical Specification" (2015 edition).
  • Stability test sample the essence in the mask of Example 3;
  • Test method internal control standard (lighting for 1 month, high and low temperature test for 3 months), higher than national standards and industry standards;
  • Test subjects 200 healthy women (25-45 years old), divided into 10 groups, each group is 20 people, each group uses the same formula product;
  • Test area face

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Abstract

本发明公开了一种新会柑花萃取液制作面膜的配方,其包含以下质量百分比的组分:1.0-8.0%的新会柑花萃取液、0.5-2.0%的珍珠粉、5.0-10.0%的抗氧化复合物、80.0-93.5%的化妆品辅料基质;本发明还公开了一种新会柑花萃取液制作面膜的工艺方法。对于本发明,采用新会柑花萃取液结合其它抗氧化物质,作用温和,无刺激,可加速皮肤细胞的自我更新和修复,具有显著的抗衰老、美白保湿效果,能快速改善肤质、提高皮肤弹性、平缓皱纹。

Description

一种新会柑花萃取液制作面膜的配方及工艺 技术领域
本发明属于化妆品技术领域,具体涉及一种新会柑花萃取液制作面膜的配方及工艺。
背景技术
任何人随着年龄的增加,面部皮肤会慢慢失去弹性,出现皱纹、面皮出现松弛的现象。衰老是人体机能变缓的直接表现,也是一种自然的过程,衰老的原因主要有以下几个方面:过度氧化、细胞寿命、衰则全身衰、蛋白质老化、内分泌功能减退、微循环障碍、荷尔蒙缺失。
人体衰老分三个阶段。第一阶段,轻度衰老,25岁-35岁,轻微皱纹出现、皮肤黯淡无光、出现色斑、免疫力下降。第二阶段,中度衰老,35岁—45岁,情绪波动、烦躁不安、焦虑、严重色斑、皮肤干燥、弹性减退、毛孔粗大、皱纹加深。第三阶段,严重衰老,45岁—55岁,人体进入快速衰老期,肌体全面老化,各种疾病缠身;女性45岁左右停经后,由于卵巢萎缩,雌性激素分泌减少,皮肤失水起皱、体型趋胖,更容易引起心理焦虑,抑郁等心理疾病。
随着年龄的增长,人体天然抗自由基、抗氧化的能力不断下降,人的细胞会衰老,人的外表上也会产生色素沉着、皮肤粗糙等问题,人体组织器官也会迅速衰老。自由基是引起皮肤衰老的重要因素,空气污染、压力、药物等都会使身体产生自由基。自由基含有一个或多个未成对电子的分子或分子的一部分,具有配对的倾向。因此大多数自由基都很活泼,具有高度的化学活性。在正常情况下,人体内的自由基是处于不断产生与清除的动态平衡之中。但自由基产生过多或清除过慢,它通过攻击生命大分子物质及各种细胞,会造成机体的各种损伤,加速机体的衰老进程,表现出逐渐衰老的变化,如老年色素沉积、皮肤起皱等。
抗衰老不是指让人增加寿命,而是对抗人体因为与外界的持续接触,包括呼吸(氧化反应)、外界污染、放射线照射等因素不断的在人体体内产生自由基所导致的折寿因素。
目前,市售的普通抗衰老面膜的抗衰老效果不明显,有些还添加了刺激性化 学物质,使用不当容易加速皱纹出现和出现皮肤松弛,造成皮肤疾病。因此,制备一种更加安全,高效的抗衰老面膜已成迫切需要。
发明内容
为了克服上述技术缺陷,本发明的第一目的是提供了一种新会柑花萃取液制作面膜的配方,采用新会柑花萃取液结合其它抗氧化物质,作用温和,无刺激,可加速皮肤细胞的自我更新和修复,具有显著的抗衰老、美白保湿效果,能快速改善肤质、提高皮肤弹性、平缓皱纹。
为了解决上述问题,本发明按以下技术方案予以实现的:
一种新会柑花萃取液制作面膜的配方,包含以下质量百分比的组分:
Figure PCTCN2018112352-appb-000001
其中,所述抗氧化复合物包含酵母提取物、当归提取物、芍药根提取物、光甘草定、熊果苷、壳聚糖、维生素E、去离子水、丁二醇。
新会柑花萃取液中富含黄酮类化合物,黄酮类化合物具有显著的生理活性,黄酮具有很好的抗氧化活性,能不同程度地减轻自由基的危害。大量研究表明,黄酮素SOD和GSH-Px,既有清除人体内活性氧化自由基防止生物膜脂质被超氧自由基和羟基自由基氧化的作用,也有类似于维生素E的作用。与普通黄酮相比,新会柑花萃取液中的黄酮不含有任何有害成分和抗营养因子,其作用机理在于它阻止了自由基在体内产生3个阶段:(1)与O 2 -·反应阻断自由基的引发连锁反应;(2)与金属离子螯合阻断自由基生成;(3)与脂质过氧基反应阻断脂质过氧化过程,对人体无毒、副作用,具有极大的安全性;而且结构稳定,不易被降解;能深入病灶部位,直接发挥功效。
珍珠粉本身含有的锰、铜、锌等三种微量元素是组成SOD的成分,用珍珠粉涂面,可促进人体肌肤超氧化物歧化酶的活性,抑制黑色素的合成,保持皮肤白皙。此外,由于SOD具有清除自由基的作用,故用珍珠粉涂面可防止皮肤衰老、起皱。
酵母提取物含有大量的多糖、寡肽、氨基酸、维生素等营养物质,其中,寡肽类物质可以和酪氨酸酶竞争底物,形成稳定的结合物,从而减少多巴及多巴醌的合成,进而减少黑色素形成;同时含有的丰富维生素A和维生素C具有良好的美白功效。
当归提取物具有极强的抑制酪氨酸酶活性作用,有祛斑使皮肤细嫩富有光泽的功效,当归的多糖还具有抗氧化,抗辐射损伤,促进免疫活性,抑制肿瘤等作用。用其敷脸还可促进血液循环。在皮肤黑色素生成过程中,酪氨酸酶具有催化左旋多巴生成酪氨酸并进一步催化酪氨酸生成黑色素的作用。用当归提取物抑制酪氨酸酶的活性,可以起到美白的作用。肌肤细胞被氧化后,会产生有害物质自由基来侵害肌肤,通过当归提取物能够清除自由基,可以达到抗氧化效果。
芍药根提取物含有芍药甙,其能抑制细胞内O 2自由基产生,抑制多巴醌向褪黑色素的转变,使皮肤嫩白;还含有丰富的维生素B和E,可以保护肌肤抵挡紫外线的辐射,预防黑色素的生成。
光甘草定是光果甘草提取物,主要通过抑制活性氧生成和抑制酪氨酸酶来抑制黑色素生成,主要负责有效抑制多巴向黑色素的转化过程,从而减少晒斑的形成和黑色素在皮肤表面的停留,能深入皮肤内部并保持高活性,美白并高效抗氧化。
熊果苷具有抑制黑色素生成过程中的关键酶-酪氨酸酶活性的能力,还具有吸收紫外线的效果。由于熊果苷在结构上与酪氨酸具有相似性,因此在酪氨酸合成黑色素的过程中可以与酪氨酸竞争结合酪氨酸酶,从而降低酪氨酸酶催化酪氨酸合成黑色素的效果。
壳聚糖为低聚水溶性壳聚糖,具有抑菌性和杀菌性,一方面可抑制或杀死皮肤表面的有害微生物,预防粉刺和青春痘的发生,另一方面可作为本发明所述面膜精华液中的防腐剂和杀菌剂,从而无须额外添加其他防腐和杀菌成分。低聚壳聚糖分子量较小,较之大分子壳聚糖更易于被皮肤吸收,可通过毛孔直接渗入皮肤内部甚至于细胞内部,消除由于微生物积累而引起的黑色素及色斑,抑制引起黑色素形成的酪氨酸酶的活性,达到美白效果,同时可特异性激活皮肤中的朗格罕氏细胞,从而达到增强皮肤防御功能、防晒、保湿,增强皮肤自我修复的作用。
维生素E是脂溶性的天然抗氧化剂,能捕获紫外线造成的自由基,消除自由 基对人体的侵蚀,它可以中断自由基的连锁反应,保护细胞膜的稳定性,防止膜上脂质过氧化作用维生素E具有维持结缔组织弹性,促进血管的血液循环的作用,能够保护细胞膜免受氧化损伤,祛除斑点,抑制黑色素生成。
进一步的,包含以下质量百分比的组分:
Figure PCTCN2018112352-appb-000002
新会柑花萃取液在本发明的面膜中的作用还包括协同其它组分使皮肤更光洁透亮,而其总黄酮量及种类是其质量的一个标准。本发明的新会柑花萃取液采用二氧化碳超临界萃取技术,这种技术萃取的新会柑花萃取液中的总黄酮含量可大于10%,明显比其它方式提取的含量要高,且具有环境友好,节能的优点。在本发明的面膜的试验中,当新会柑花萃取液的含量在低于5.0%时,其所起作用微小;当新会柑花萃取液含量大于8.0%时,本发明的面膜在光照及45℃耐热时容易变色。因此,新会柑花萃取液的含量选用5.0-8.0%。
进一步的,所述抗氧化复合物包含以下质量百分比的组分:
33.0-54.6%的去离子水、40.0-50.0%的丁二醇、1.0-5.0%的酵母提取物、1.0-3.0%的当归提取物、1.0-3.0%的芍药根提取物、1.0-2.0%的光甘草定、1.0-2.0%的壳聚糖、0.2-1.0%的熊果苷、0.2-1.0%的维生素E。
进一步的,所述新会柑花萃取液的制备方法为:
1)取新鲜的新会柑花,于50-60℃热风干燥,磨成粉,过10-100目筛;
2)将步骤1)所得粉末进行二氧化碳超临界萃取,萃取温度为40-60℃,萃取压力为200-500BAR,其中,先按料液比g/mL为1:(0.5-2)加入95%的乙醇,静态萃取20-30min,再按0.2-0.6mL/min添加95%的乙醇,动态萃取1-3h;
3)将步骤2)所得液体进行减压浓缩,即得所述新会柑花萃取液。
进一步的,所述酵母提取物的制备方法为:取活酵母加入其重量20-50倍量的去离子水,80-95℃自溶1-2h;加入酵母抽提酶、木瓜蛋白酶、碱性蛋白酶、中性蛋白酶、酸性蛋白酶、核酸酶、复合酶、谷氨酰胺酶和脱氨酶,调节温度至40-60℃,调节PH至4.5-7.0,酶解10-20h;酶解完毕后加热至80-85℃,灭活 1-2h,4000-6000r/min离心10-30min,取上清液于50-60℃的真空干燥箱中干燥至恒重,即得所述酵母提取物。
进一步的,所述当归提取物的制备方法为:取当归粉末加入其重量10-20倍量的去离子水,回流提取2次,每次1-3h,过滤,合并;将滤液浓缩,加入95%的乙醇至乙醇浓度为70%,于50-60℃的真空干燥箱中干燥至恒重,即得所述当归提取物。
进一步的,所述芍药根提取物的制备方法为:取芍药根粉末加入其重量5-10倍量的95%的乙醇,摇匀,密封后于40℃恒温振荡水浴提取1-3h;将提取液于离心管中,4000-6000r/min离心10-30min,取上清液于50-60℃的真空干燥箱中干燥至恒重,即得所述芍药根提取物。
进一步的,所述化妆品辅料基质包含以下质量百分比的组分:
1.0-30.0%的保湿剂、0.01-2.0%的螯合剂、0.05-5.0%的增稠剂、0.1-40.0%的润肤剂、0.01-37.0%的皮肤调理剂、0.01-1.0%的香精、20.0-98.0%的去离子水。
进一步的,所述保湿剂为甘油、丙二醇、1,3-丙二醇、丁二醇、己二醇、1,2-戊二醇、辛甘醇、尿囊素、山梨醇、甜菜碱中的一种或多种;
所述螯合剂为EDTA二钠、EDTA四钠、柠檬酸、柠檬酸钠中的一种或多种;
所述增稠剂为丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸铵/VP共聚物、聚丙烯酸钠、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物钠、丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物、聚丙烯酸酯-13、丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸铵/山嵛醇聚醚-25甲基丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物中的一种或多种;
所述润肤机为矿物油、异十六烷、乳木果油、橄榄油、聚二甲基硅氧烷、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、甘油三(乙基己酸)酯、角鲨烷、棕榈酸乙基己酯、氢化聚癸烯、环五聚二甲基硅氧烷、环己硅氧烷中的一种或多种;
所述皮肤调理剂为α-甘露聚糖、透明质酸钠、PCA钠、甜菜碱、聚季铵盐-51、果聚糖、麦芽寡糖葡糖苷、氢化淀粉水解物、皱波角叉菜(CHONDRUS CRISPUS)提取物、脱乙酰壳多糖、β-葡聚糖、肌酸中的一种或多种。
为了克服上述技术缺陷,本发明的第二目的是提供了一种新会柑花萃取液制作面膜的工艺方法,该方法制备简单快捷。
为了解决上述问题,本发明按以下技术方案予以实现的:
一种新会柑花萃取液制作面膜的工艺方法,包括以下步骤:
S1、配料:配备包含以下质量百分比的原料组分:1.0-8.0%的新会柑花萃取液、0.5-2.0%的珍珠粉、5.0-10.0%的抗氧化复合物、80.0-93.5%的化妆品辅料基质;
其中,所述抗氧化复合物包含酵母提取物、当归提取物、芍药根提取物、光甘草定、熊果苷、壳聚糖、维生素E、去离子水、丁二醇;
所述化妆品辅料基质包含保湿剂、螯合剂、增稠剂、润肤剂、皮肤调理剂、香精、去离子水;
S2、将步骤S1配备的去离子水、保湿剂、螯合剂、增稠剂加入水相锅,加热至80-85℃,搅拌分散均匀,作为A相;
S3、将步骤S1配备的润肤剂加入油相锅中,加热至75-80℃,搅拌分散均匀,作为B相;
S4、将步骤S2所得A相和步骤S3所得B相抽入乳化锅中,高速均质5-10min,开冷却循环水,搅拌降温,待温度降至45-50℃时,将步骤S1配备的皮肤调理剂、新会柑花萃取液、珍珠粉、抗氧化复合物、香精加入所述乳化锅中,均质1-3min,继续搅拌冷却至温度低于38℃,即得面膜精华液;
S5、无纺布面膜纸用珠光膜固定,折叠放入铝箔袋中,待臭氧灭菌后放入面膜全自动灌装机,灌装步骤S4所制得的面膜精华液,即得到面膜成品。
无纺布材质是一种环保材料,具有防潮、透气、柔韧、质轻等特点,能吸附大量精华液,并且不容易滴落。其最大的特点就是使用起来方便,撕开密封袋直接使用,使用后无需清洗。使用后,皮肤可变得水润饱满,光滑明亮,长期使用,有减少皮肤细纹,紧致皮肤的功效。
与现有技术相比,本发明的有益效果是:
(1)本发明提供的一种新会柑花萃取液制作面膜的配方,采用新会柑花萃取液、珍珠粉及抗氧化复合物相结合,含有多种抗衰老及美白成分,其中的活性成分能够抑制自由基的产生,加快自由基的清除;通过将这些有效成分按一定比例结合,可以协同减少皮肤自由基,作用温和,无刺激,可加速皮肤细胞的自我更新和修复,具有显著的抗衰老、美白保湿效果,能快速改善肤质、提高皮肤弹性、平缓皱纹。
(2)本发明所述的新会柑花萃取液制作面膜的工艺方法,该方法制备简便快捷。
附图说明
下面结合附图对本发明的具体实施方式作进一步详细的说明,其中:
图1为本发明所述新会柑花萃取液制作面膜的工艺流程图。
具体实施方式
以下结合附图对本发明的优选实施例进行说明,应当理解,此处所描述的优选实施例仅用于说明和解释本发明,并不用于限定本发明。
本发明公开了一种新会柑花萃取液制作面膜的配方,包含以下质量百分比的组分:
Figure PCTCN2018112352-appb-000003
其中,抗氧化复合物包含酵母提取物、当归提取物、芍药根提取物、光甘草定、熊果苷、壳聚糖、维生素E、去离子水、丁二醇。
各种试验仪器与试剂均为市售商品,均为可通过商业途径购买获得。
实施例1-4
(一)原料的制备:
新会柑花萃取液的制备:
取100g新鲜的新会柑花,于55℃热风干燥,磨成粉,过40目筛;将所得粉末进行二氧化碳超临界萃取,萃取温度为55℃,萃取压力为300BAR,其中,先按料液比g/mL为1:1加入95%的乙醇,静态萃取25min,再按0.4mL/min添加95%的乙醇,动态萃取2h;将所得液体进行减压浓缩,即得新会柑花萃取液。
酵母提取物的制备:
取100g活酵母加入其重量30倍量的去离子水,90℃自溶2h;加入酵母抽提酶、木瓜蛋白酶、碱性蛋白酶、中性蛋白酶、酸性蛋白酶、核酸酶、复合酶、 谷氨酰胺酶和脱氨酶,调节温度至50℃,调节PH至5.5,酶解15h;酶解完毕后加热至85℃,灭活2h,5000r/min离心20min,取上清液于55℃的真空干燥箱中干燥至恒重,即得酵母提取物。
当归提取物的制备:
取100g当归粉末加入其重量15倍量的去离子水,回流提取2次,每次2h,过滤,合并;将滤液浓缩,加入95%的乙醇至乙醇浓度为70%,于55℃的真空干燥箱中干燥至恒重,即得当归提取物。
芍药根提取物的制备:
取100g芍药根粉末加入其重量10倍量的95%的乙醇,摇匀,密封后于40℃恒温振荡水浴提取2h;将提取液于离心管中,5000r/min离心20min,取上清液于55℃的真空干燥箱中干燥至恒重,即得芍药根提取物。
(二)实施例1、实施例2、实施例3、实施例4的新会柑花萃取液制作面膜的配方,其原料组分配比如表1所示。
表1 实施例1-4的组分
Figure PCTCN2018112352-appb-000004
Figure PCTCN2018112352-appb-000005
其中,抗氧化复合物的组分如表2所示。
表2 抗氧化复合物的组分
组分名称 含量
39.90g
丁二醇 48.55g
酵母提取物 3.05g
当归提取物 2.55g
芍药根提取物 1.65g
光甘草定 1.45g
壳聚糖 1.40g
熊果苷 0.75g
维生素E 0.70g
(三)实施例1-4的一种新会柑花萃取液制作面膜的工艺方法,包括以下步骤:
1)如表1所示配备原料组分;
S2、将步骤S1配备的去离子水、甘油、1.3-丁二醇、尿囊素、EDTA-2NA、聚丙烯酸酯-13、丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸铵/VP共聚物、聚二甲基硅氧烷加入水相锅,加热至85℃,搅拌分散均匀,作为A相;
S3、将步骤S1配备的乳木果油、异十六烷、角鲨烷加入油相锅中,加热至80℃,搅拌分散均匀,作为B相;
S4、将步骤S2所得A相和步骤S3所得B相抽入乳化锅中,高速均质10min,开冷却循环水,搅拌降温,待温度降至50℃时,将步骤S1配备的透明质酸钠、甜菜碱、肌酸、新会柑花萃取液、珍珠粉、抗氧化复合物、香精加入所述乳化锅中,均质2min,继续搅拌冷却至温度低于38℃,即得面膜精华液;
S5、无纺布面膜纸用珠光膜固定,折叠放入铝箔袋中,待臭氧灭菌后放入面膜全自动灌装机,灌装20g步骤S4所制得的面膜精华液,即得到面膜成品。
其中,抗氧化复合物按照表2配制。
对照例1-6
对照例1-6的面膜配方,其原料组分配比如表3所示。
表3 对照例1-6的组分
Figure PCTCN2018112352-appb-000006
Figure PCTCN2018112352-appb-000007
对照例1-6的面膜的制备方法同实施例1,抗氧化复合物的配方如实施例1的表2所示。
安全性测试
1、测试人数:共30人,男3人,女27人;最小年龄:24岁,最大年龄:45岁;平均年龄35.73±7.15岁志愿入选标准;
2、测试方法:实施例1-4的面膜精华液做斑贴测试。选用合格的斑试器,以封闭型斑贴试验方法,将受试物约0.020~0.025mL置于斑试器内,外用医用胶带贴敷于受试者背部,24小时后去除受试物,分别于移除斑贴后0.5、24、48小时观察皮肤反应,按《化妆品安全技术规范》(2015年版)中皮肤反应分级标准记录其结果。
3、评定标准如下表4。
表4 评定标准
Figure PCTCN2018112352-appb-000008
Figure PCTCN2018112352-appb-000009
经过测定,人体皮肤封闭型贴试验结果显示,对照表4,30人中,0例出现阳性反应,根据《化妆品安全技术规范》(2015年版)中规定,该受试物对本批受试者不会引起皮肤不良反应。
稳定性测试
1、稳定性测试样品:实施例3面膜中的精华液;
2、测试方法:内控标准(光照1个月、高低温测试3个月),高于国家标准、行业标准;
3、测试结果如表5所示。
表5 实施例3产品测试结果
Figure PCTCN2018112352-appb-000010
Figure PCTCN2018112352-appb-000011
表5的结果显示:本发明的面膜中的精华液具有很好的稳定性。
效果试验例
1、测试者:200名健康女性(25~45岁),分为10组,每组各为20人,每组使用同种配方产品;
2、测试区域:脸部;
3、使用方式:每晚20时-24时敷面一次,时间15分钟;
4、检测方式:使用CK皮肤检测仪检测色素、弹性、水分,使用VISIA皮肤检测仪检测皱纹,测试结果如表6所示。
表6 使用前后的测试结果
Figure PCTCN2018112352-appb-000012
通过表6可以看出,使用本发明实施例1-4制得的面膜后,皮肤的弹性值变 大,表明皮肤弹性变好;水分值变大,表明水分提升;色素检测变大,说明色素残留少(测量数值与色素值成反比);皱纹检测值变大,表明皱纹减少(测量数值与皱纹数目成反比)。虽然实施例与对照例都有抗老化效果,但是实施例数值增加幅度明显大于对照例。
以上所述,仅是本发明的较佳实施例而已,并非对本发明作任何形式上的限制,故凡是未脱离本发明技术方案内容,依据本发明的技术实质对以上实施例所作的任何修改、等同变化与修饰,均仍属于本发明技术方案的范围内。

Claims (10)

  1. 一种新会柑花萃取液制作面膜的配方,其特征在于,包含以下质量百分比的组分:
    Figure PCTCN2018112352-appb-100001
    其中,所述抗氧化复合物包含酵母提取物、当归提取物、芍药根提取物、光甘草定、熊果苷、壳聚糖、维生素E、去离子水、丁二醇。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的新会柑花萃取液制作面膜的配方,其特征在于,包含以下质量百分比的组分:
    Figure PCTCN2018112352-appb-100002
  3. 根据权利要求1所述的新会柑花萃取液制作面膜的配方,其特征在于:所述抗氧化复合物包含以下质量百分比的组分:
    33.0-54.6%的去离子水、40.0-50.0%的丁二醇、1.0-5.0%的酵母提取物、1.0-3.0%的当归提取物、1.0-3.0%的芍药根提取物、1.0-2.0%的光甘草定、1.0-2.0%的壳聚糖、0.2-1.0%的熊果苷、0.2-1.0%的维生素E。
  4. 根据权利要求1所述的新会柑花萃取液制作面膜的配方,其特征在于,所述新会柑花萃取液的制备方法为:
    1)取新鲜的新会柑花,于50-60℃热风干燥,磨成粉,过10-100目筛;
    2)将步骤1)所得粉末进行二氧化碳超临界萃取,萃取温度为40-60℃,萃取压力为200-500BAR,其中,先按料液比g/mL为1:(0.5-2)加入95%的乙醇,静态萃取20-30min,再按0.2-0.6mL/min添加95%的乙醇,动态萃取1-3h;
    3)将步骤2)所得液体进行减压浓缩,即得所述新会柑花萃取液。
  5. 根据权利要求1所述的新会柑花萃取液制作面膜的配方,其特征在于,所述酵母提取物的制备方法为:取活酵母加入其重量20-50倍量的去离子水, 80-95℃自溶1-2h;加入酵母抽提酶、木瓜蛋白酶、碱性蛋白酶、中性蛋白酶、酸性蛋白酶、核酸酶、复合酶、谷氨酰胺酶和脱氨酶,调节温度至40-60℃,调节PH至4.5-7.0,酶解10-20h;酶解完毕后加热至80-85℃,灭活1-2h,4000-6000r/min离心10-30min,取上清液于50-60℃的真空干燥箱中干燥至恒重,即得所述酵母提取物。
  6. 根据权利要求1所述的新会柑花萃取液制作面膜的配方,其特征在于,所述当归提取物的制备方法为:取当归粉末加入其重量10-20倍量的去离子水,回流提取2次,每次1-3h,过滤,合并;将滤液浓缩,加入95%的乙醇至乙醇浓度为70%,于50-60℃的真空干燥箱中干燥至恒重,即得所述当归提取物。
  7. 根据权利要求1所述的新会柑花萃取液制作面膜的配方,其特征在于,所述芍药根提取物的制备方法为:取芍药根粉末加入其重量5-10倍量的95%的乙醇,摇匀,密封后于40℃恒温振荡水浴提取1-3h;将提取液于离心管中,4000-6000r/min离心10-30min,取上清液于50-60℃的真空干燥箱中干燥至恒重,即得所述芍药根提取物。
  8. 根据权利要求1所述的新会柑花萃取液制作面膜的配方,其特征在于:所述化妆品辅料基质包含以下质量百分比的组分:
    1.0-30.0%的保湿剂、0.01-2.0%的螯合剂、0.05-5.0%的增稠剂、0.1-40.0%的润肤剂、0.01-37.0%的皮肤调理剂、0.01-1.0%的香精、20.0-98.0%的去离子水。
  9. 根据权利要求1所述的新会柑花萃取液制作面膜的配方,其特征在于:所述保湿剂为甘油、丙二醇、1,3-丙二醇、丁二醇、己二醇、1,2-戊二醇、辛甘醇、尿囊素、山梨醇、甜菜碱中的一种或多种;
    所述螯合剂为EDTA二钠、EDTA四钠、柠檬酸、柠檬酸钠中的一种或多种;
    所述增稠剂为丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸铵/VP共聚物、聚丙烯酸钠、丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物钠、丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物、聚丙烯酸酯-13、丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸铵/山嵛醇聚醚-25甲基丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、丙烯酸羟乙酯/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物中的一种或多种;
    所述润肤机为矿物油、异十六烷、乳木果油、橄榄油、聚二甲基硅氧烷、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、甘油三(乙基己酸)酯、角鲨烷、棕榈酸乙基己酯、氢化聚癸烯、环五聚二甲基硅氧烷、环己硅氧烷中的一种或多种;
    所述皮肤调理剂为α-甘露聚糖、透明质酸钠、PCA钠、甜菜碱、聚季铵盐-51、果聚糖、麦芽寡糖葡糖苷、氢化淀粉水解物、皱波角叉菜(CHONDRUS CRISPUS)提取物、脱乙酰壳多糖、β-葡聚糖、肌酸中的一种或多种。
  10. 一种根据权利要求1~9任一项所述的新会柑花萃取液制作面膜的工艺方法,其特征在于,包括以下步骤:
    S1、配料:配备包含以下质量百分比的原料组分:1.0-8.0%的新会柑花萃取液、0.5-2.0%的珍珠粉、5.0-10.0%的抗氧化复合物、80.0-93.5%的化妆品辅料基质;
    其中,所述抗氧化复合物包含酵母提取物、当归提取物、芍药根提取物、光甘草定、熊果苷、壳聚糖、维生素E、去离子水、丁二醇;
    所述化妆品辅料基质包含保湿剂、螯合剂、增稠剂、润肤剂、皮肤调理剂、香精、去离子水;
    S2、将步骤S1配备的去离子水、保湿剂、螯合剂、增稠剂加入水相锅,加热至80-85℃,搅拌分散均匀,作为A相;
    S3、将步骤S1配备的润肤剂加入油相锅中,加热至75-80℃,搅拌分散均匀,作为B相;
    S4、将步骤S2所得A相和步骤S3所得B相抽入乳化锅中,高速均质5-10min,开冷却循环水,搅拌降温,待温度降至45-50℃时,将步骤S1配备的皮肤调理剂、新会柑花萃取液、珍珠粉、抗氧化复合物、香精加入所述乳化锅中,均质1-3min,继续搅拌冷却至温度低于38℃,即得面膜精华液;
    S5、无纺布面膜纸用珠光膜固定,折叠放入铝箔袋中,待臭氧灭菌后放入面膜全自动灌装机,灌装步骤S4所制得的面膜精华液,即得到面膜成品。
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