WO2020035245A1

WO2020035245A1 - A cleansing composition

Info

Publication number: WO2020035245A1
Application number: PCT/EP2019/069019
Authority: WO
Inventors: Dan KE; Ziyin WANG
Original assignee: Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date: 2018-08-17
Filing date: 2019-07-15
Publication date: 2020-02-20
Also published as: WO2020034202A1

Abstract

The present invention belongs to the cosmetic field, and relates to a cleansing composition, especially a face cleansing composition, suitable as a make-up remover. The composition comprises at least one alkyl poly glycoside, at least one anionic surfactant based on an amino acid, a mixture of polyglycerol based emulsifiers, and at least one ethoxylated alkyl glyceride emulsifier. It has effective cleansing properties and at the same is a mild, non-irritating composition. The composition is made available in form of a cleansing water, based on a micelle in water system.

Description

A Cleansing Composition

Technical field

The present invention relates to a cosmetic cleansing composition, especially a face cleans ing composition, in particular suitable as a make-up remover. The composition has effective cleansing properties and at the same is a mild, non-irritating composition. The composition is made available in form of a cleansing water, based on a micelle in water system.

Background art

Generally, make-up is used to improve the outward appearance, in particular the appearance of the face. Already in ancient times make-up was used. In Egypt, at the times when the pharaohs were governing the country, the use of make-up for the eyes, lips and cheeks was common. Women and men used it to protect the skin against the sun, but also for beautifica tion. Nowadays, make-up is merely used to improve in particular the outward appearance of the face.

The applied make-up has to be removed. This may be achieved by face cleansers or prod ucts solely developed to remove make-up, so called make-up removers. The skin of the face is a relatively sensitive skin, therefore it is recommended to use mild cleansing compositions.

Make-up compositions contain a great number of raw materials, which are of very different chemical nature. The dyes, contained in make-up compositions, are selected from inorganic pigments such as silicates (magnesium silicate (talc), aluminum silicate (kaolin)), and metal oxides (chrome, iron, manganese, titanium, and zinc oxides), and/or organic pigments. Bind ing means may be esters of stearic acid, lanolin alcohol and lanolin acetate. Furthermore, waxes, such as for instance, beeswax or carnauba wax, and oils, such as for instance, paraf fin oil, silicone oil or castor oil, may be contained. Additionally, preservatives, antioxidants, thickeners and other additives may be comprised.

To achieve a proper face cleansing, these different compounds have to be removed from the skin. At the same time nonpolar substances such as waxes, oils and silicone oils and pig ments of low solubility, such as talc or titanium oxide, must be solubilized. This holds true for foundations, lipsticks, eye shadows, eye pencils, and also for long-lasting and waterproof products.

Prior art discloses face cleansing compositions suitable to remove make-up as well. Different types of compositions are described and respective products are in the market. The compo- sitions may be in form of emulsions, creamy, milky or liquid ones, gels and oily compositions, sometimes with two distinct phases, which are mixed upon shaking. Products, which are mainly water-based, have also been described.

WO 2016/146360 A1 discloses a facial cleansing preparation, especially for removing make up and toning the skin, in the form of a 3-in-1 product. The product comprises an oily phase, an aqueous phase and benzethonium chloride and is free of silicone based compounds. The oily phase contains isohexadecane and/or C15-19-alkanes.

WO 2017/005485 A1 describes an impregnation means, namely a composition for impreg nating clothes which are intended for face cleansing. Said composition is based on micellar technology and contains at least one acyl glutamate and at least one alkyl glycoside.

However, there is still need for face cleansing compositions, which are not composed of two phases and/or are not intended to be used as an impregnation means. As the purpose of the compositions of the invention is the removal of make-up, also and especially the removal of eye make-up, it is important, that the compositions are mild and cause no irritations, espe cially in the eye area.

Surprisingly, it is found that the addition of emulsifiers, which are polyglycerol based, contrib utes to an improvement of compositions intended for face cleansing, especially make-up re moving.

The use of polyglycerol based emulsifiers has been described in cosmetic compositions be fore, even in cleansing compositions.

WO 2012/168126 A2 discloses cleansing compositions, which are transparent and contain nature based raw materials. In a list of many other components, which are preferably con tained in the compositions according to WO 2012/168126, polyglycerol emulsifiers are con tained. But no working example discloses the use of said emulsifiers.

The aim of EP 3078365 A1 is to solubilize fatty agents in aqueous phases. Compositions containing a gemini surfactant, an alkylpolyglucoside and a polyglycerol fatty acid ester are described. Said compositions may also be used as cleansing compositions. US 2012/0157365 A1 describes mild cleansing compositions containing polyglyceryl nonionic surfactants. There is no disclosure that the compositions according to US 2012/0157365 are suitable for removing make-up.

US 2014/0121 174 A1 describes a hair treatment composition containing polyglyceryl ester. There is no disclosure in relation to make-up removing compositions.

CN 106726770 A describes a cleansing water based on micellar technology. Said cleansing water contains decylglucoside and/or polyglyceryl-6caprylate and/or polyglyceryl- 10 oleate and may be used for removing make-up.

Starting from prior art, it is desirable to provide further compositions being clearly directed to face cleansing and make-up removal. Another aim is to achieve a further improvement in mildness, so that there is scarcely any, at best no, irritation observed of the face skin and eye area.

Disclosure of the invention

Surprisingly, these requirements are met by a cleansing composition containing non-ionic surfactants chosen from alkyl poly glucosides, anionic surfactants based on amino acids and a mixture of polyglycerol based emulsifiers.

Specifically, the invention is directed to a cleansing composition, especially a face cleansing composition containing

at least one alkyl poly glycoside,

at least one anionic surfactant based on an amino acid,

a mixture of polyglycerol based emulsifiers, and

at least one ethoxylated alkyl glyceride emulsifier.

The composition contains water, hence it is an aqueous composition. The water content ranges from 80 to 99 % by weight, preferably 90 to 98 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition. In particular, the cleansing composition is a cleansing water.

In the meaning of the present invention the word“skin” encompasses the skin, but also the hair emerging from the skin at nearly all parts of the body. The present invention is especially directed to human skin. The composition according to the invention contains surfactants, namely at least one alkyl poly glycoside and at least one anionic surfactant based on an amino acid.

The non-ionic surfactant(s) is/are chosen from alkyl poly glycosides, represented by the for mula RO-(Z)x, wherein R is the alkyl group having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, Z is a sugar moiety and x is the number of sugar moieties (1 .1 -5 on average). The alkyl poly glycosides accord ing to the invention may have a specific alkyl group, having a distinct number of carbon at oms. In general, alkyl poly glycosides are produced starting from natural oils, preferably plant oils, more preferably coconut oil. In this case, the alkyl group R is a mixture of the alkyl groups of the respective fatty acids of natural oil used as a starting material.

It is preferred, if the alkyl poly glycosides have alkyl groups, where R essentially consists of C8 to C18 alkyl groups, preferably C8 to C12.

The sugar moiety may be a monosaccharide or an oligosaccharide. In general, the sugar moieties have 5 or 6 carbon atoms, which are contained as monosaccharides or oligosac charides. Examples for suitable sugar moieties are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. It is pre ferred, if the sugar moieties are glucose orsucrose. It is more preferred, if the sugar moiety is glucose.

The alkyl poly glycosides contain 1.1 to 5 sugar moieties on average, preferably 1 .1 to 2.0, more preferably 1 .1 to 1.8. It is most preferred, if the alkyl poly glycoside is decylglucoside. Decylglucoside may be purchased as a composition of 53 % Decylglucoside and 47% water, under the trade name Plantacare 2000 UP from BASF Personal Care and Nutrition.

Alkyl poly glycoside are known to be mild surfactants, however to further improve the mild ness of the compositions according to the invention, it is advantageous to reduce the amount of the alkyl poly glycosides as much as possible. Hence, it is preferred, if the at least one alkyl poly glycoside is contained in a total amount of 0.01 to 2.0 % by weight, preferably 0.02 to 1.0 % by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 0.5 % by weight in the composition accord ing to the invention, in relation to the active content and in relation to the total weight of the composition.

The anionic surfactants based on amino acids consist of an amino acid and an acyl group; the acyl group being mostly attached to the functional groups of the amino acid. The at least one amino acid surfactant is preferably chosen from N-acyl amino acids, more preferably N-acyl glutamate, most preferably disodium/sodium cocoylgluatamate, contained in the com position according to the invention. The amount of the monosodium salt (mono sodium co- coyl glutamate) is dependent on the pH value. The lower the pH value, the higher the relative amount of mono sodium cocoylgluatamate. Disodium cocoyl glutamate is available as a composition of 25% Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate, 63% water, 5% Propylene Glycol, 4.5% Sodium Chloride and 2.5% Sodium Sulfate under the trade name Hostapon - CCG from Clar- iant.

Anionic surfactants based on amino acids are known to be mild surfactants. However, to en sure that the composition of the present invention is characterized by an extraordinary mild ness, the amount of the at least one anionic surfactant based on an amino acid is as low as possible. Hence, the at least one anionic surfactant based on an amino acid is contained in a total amount of 0.001 to 0.05 % by weight, preferably 0.002 to 0.01 % by weight in the com position according to the invention, in relation to the active content and in relation to the total weight of the composition.

Polyglycerol based emulsifiers are emulsifier having a polyglycerol chain, wherein the num ber behind the term polyglycerol denotes the number of glycerol molecules. A fatty acid, sat urated or unsaturated, having 4 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 20 carbon atoms is es- terified with the polyglycerol chain. The fatty acid may be a single fatty acid with a distinct number of carbon atoms or a mixture of fatty acids. These mixtures may be derived from vegetable oils, such as for instance palm oil, coco nut oil or soy oil.

It is preferred, if a mixture of fatty acids derived from coco nut oil is esterified to polyglycerol chain having mostly 3 glycerol units, resulting in Polyglyceryl 3 cocoate.

It is also preferred, if caprylic acid is esterified to polyglycerol chain having mostly 6 glycerol units, resulting in Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate.

It is also preferred, if caproic acid is esterified to polyglycerol chain having mostly 4 glycerol units, resulting in Polyglyceryl-4 caprate.

It is also preferred, if ricinoleic acid is esterified to polyglycerol chain having mostly 6 glycerol units, resulting in Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate. The mixture of polyglycerol based emulsifiers contains at least two polyglycerol based emul sifiers, preferably chosen from the preferred emulsifier, namely from Polyglyceryl 3 cocoate, Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, Polyglyceryl-4 caprate, and Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate.

It is more preferred, if the mixture contains all four preferred emulsifiers, namely Polyglyceryl 3 cocoate, Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, Polyglyceryl-4 caprate, and Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate. It is even more preferred, if the mixture contains only the four preferred emulsifiers, namely Polyglyceryl 3 cocoate, Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, Polyglyceryl-4 caprate, and Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate. It is even further more preferred, if said four preferred emulsifiers are contained in the mixture in a weight ratio of Polyglyceryl 3 cocoate : Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate : Polyglyc eryl-4 caprate : Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate from 1 : (0.6 to 1 .6) : (0.6 to 1.6) : (0.6 : 1.6), espe cially in a weight ratio of 1 : 1 : 1 : 1 .

Likewise, it is even more preferred, if each of the four preferred emulsifiers, namely Poly glyceryl 3 cocoate, Polyglyceryl-6 caprylate, Polyglyceryl-4 caprate, and Polyglyceryl-6 Ric inoleate, is contained in the mixture in an amount of 17 to 27 % by weight of the mixture.

A mixture suitable according to the present invention may be purchased under the trade name Tego Solve 61 from Evonik Nutrition and Care GmbH.

Advantageously, the mixture of polyglycerol based emulsifiers is contained in the composi tion of the invention in an amount of 0.1 to 4.0 % by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3.0 % by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.

Ethoxylated alkyl glycerides emulsifier(s) is/are contained. Ethoxylated alkyl glycerides are mono-, di, and/or tri-glycerides having ethylene glycol units, which is indicated with the ab breviation PEG. The alkyl group may be derived from a single fatty acid having a distinct number of carbon atoms or a mixture of fatty acids. These mixtures may be derived from vegetable oils, such as for instance palm oil, coco nut oil or soy oil. It is preferred, if the mix ture of fatty acids is derived from coco nut oil. The average number of ethylene glycol units per molecule is indicated by the number behind“PEG”. For instance PEG-7 means that on average 7 ethylene glycol units are present per molecule.

It is more preferred, if PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate is present in the composition according to the invention. Advantageously, the at least one ethoxylated alkyl glyceride emulsifier is contained in the composition of the present invention in a total amount of 0.1 to 7.5 % by weight, preferably 0.2 to 2.0 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

The interaction of the at least one alkyl poly glycoside, the at least one anionic surfactant based on an amino acid, the mixture of polyglycerol based emulsifiers, and the at least one ethoxylated alkyl glyceride emulsifier leads to a micellar in water system. It is believed that the micelles are generated by the anionic surfactant based on an amino acid and the alkyl glycosides, the polyglycerol based emulsifiers, and the ethoxylated alkyl glyceride emulsifiers are inserted in the micellar structure.

In general, the micelles are built by aggregation of amphiphilic molecules, the hydrophilic part of which is orientated outwards in the aqueous phase, whereas the lipophilic part is directed to the inside of the micelle. Compositions containing micellar structures are very effectively removing make-up.

Hence a further object of the present invention is a cleansing composition, especially face cleansing composition containing

at least one alkyl poly glycoside,

at least one anionic surfactant based on an amino acid,

a mixture of polyglycerol based emulsifiers, and

at least one ethoxylated alkyl glyceride emulsifier,

wherein micelles are built, generating a micelle in water system.

As described above the composition according to the invention is an aqueous composition. Nevertheless it is advantageous, if hydrophobic components are contained. For instance, these hydrophobic components may be perfumes and/or certain preservatives. In order to dissolve these components in the composition according to the invention, at least one addi tional emulsifier or substance having emulsifying properties may be further contained, being different from the emulsifiers contained in the mixture of polyglycerol based emulsifiers and the ethoxylated alkyl glyceride emulsifiers. It is preferred, if said emulsifier(s) has/have eth ylene glycol units.

It is more preferred, if one or more emulsifiers, selected from ethoxylated Hydrogenated Cas tor Oil, is/are contained. It is even more preferred, if PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor oil and/or PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is/are contained. It is even further preferred, if PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor oil is contained.

Advantageously, the at least one additional emulsifier is contained in the composition of the present invention in a total amount of 0.1 to 7.5 % by weight, preferably 0.5 to 5.0 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the composition of the present invention may further contain at least one humectant. Humectants are hygroscopic substances which bind water and therefore provide moisture. The hygroscopic quality is due to hydrophilic substituents of the molecule, in many cases hydroxyl groups, but other functional groups as amine or carboxyl groups may fulfill the same function. Examples of humectants are diols, such as 1 ,2-pentandiol, 1 ,2-hexandiol, and 1 ,2-octandiol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and butylene glycol, glyceryl triacetate, glycerol, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, polydextrose, urea, Aloe vera gel, alpha hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, honey. It is preferred, if the composition according to the invention contains glycerol, sorbitol, and/or 1 ,2-hexandiol.

Advantageously, the one or more humectant(s) is/are contained in the composition according to the invention in a total amount of 0.1 to 7.5 % by weight, preferably 1.0 to 5.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of the humectant.

Advantageously, the composition of the present invention may further contain at least one compound for having a caring and/or conditioning function for the skin. Therefore said com pound has to be able to get into contact with the skin in order to contribute to a caring and conditioning effect. To achieve this advantageously compounds are chosen, which have a naturally derived backbone. Examples are polymers, which are originated from plants, espe cially celluloses. In general, the cellulose molecules are modified resulting in an easier usage in cosmetic formulations. There are many kinds of modifications possible and hence many kinds of different cellulose molecules available as cosmetic ingredient. For the present inven tion it is advantageously to choose cellulose molecules, which have a cationic function. It is preferred, if a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose is contained, known as Polyquternium-10.

Advantageously, the Polyquaternium-10 is contained in the composition according to the invention in an amount of 0.01 to 1.0 % by weight, more preferably 0.03 to 0.5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The values are referring to the active content of Polyquaternium-10. Advantageously the composition of the present invention may further contain one or more complexing agents. Complexing agents may contribute to clarity or transparency of a com position. The complexing agents may be chosen from aminopolycarboxylic acids and anions thereof, such as, for example, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and anions thereof, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and anions thereof, hydroxyethylenediaminotriacetic acid

(HOEDTA) and anions thereof, diethyleneaminopentaacetic acid (DPTA) and anions thereof, trans-1 ,2-diaminocyclohexanetetraacetic acid (CDTA) and anions thereof.

Advantageously the at least one complexing agent is contained in the composition of the invention in an amount of 0.1 to 1.0 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composi tion.

Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention may further contain pre servatives. All preservatives, which are allowed and suitable for cosmetic compositions, may be contained in the composition according to the invention.

However, it is preferred, if one or more paraben(s) is/are contained. Parabens are character ized by the following formula

wherein R is a linear or branched alkyl residue of 1 to 5 carbon atoms. Common parabens are methyl-, ethyl-, propyl-, butylparaben, as well as isopropyl-, isobutyl-, pentyl-, and phe- nylparaben. It is more preferred, if methyl- and/or ethylparaben are contained.

The one or more paraben(s) is/are contained in a total amount of 0.01 to 2.0 % by weight, preferably 0.05 to 1.0 % by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 0.8 % by weight in the composition according to the invention, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

It is likewise preferred, if Phenoxyethanol is contained in the composition according to the invention. Phenoxyethanol is contained in an amount of 0.01 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 0.05 to 3.0 % by weight, more preferably 0.1 to0.9 % by weight in the composition according to the invention, in relation to the total weight of the composition. It is also likewise preferred, if a combination of one or more paraben(s) and Phenoxyethanol is contained.

Advantageously, the pH value of the composition according to the invention ranges from 4.5 to 7.5, preferably 4.5 to 5.0. The pH value may be adjusted by any physiologically acceptable means. However, it is preferred to use organic acids, selected from citric acid and/or lactic acid, more preferred citric acid to adjust the pH value.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is clear and transparent.

For an appealing appearance of the product, the compositions may be colored by containing colorants. Preferably, it is a pink or a black composition according to the invention. If a pink composition is produced, a pink colorant is further contained in the composition. The pink colorant may be purchased from Goldmann (Sensient) under the trade name FD&C Red No 40 07700-C.

Advantageously, the pink colorant is contained in an amount of 0.00001 to 0.001% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

If a black composition is produced, more preferably a mixture of colorants is further con tained in the composition. The mixture even more preferably contains a red colorant, availa ble as FD&C Red No 40 07700-C from Goldmann (Sensient), a green colorant, available D&C Green No.5 (5/002155) 656848 from Symrise, and a yellow colorant, available as Unicert Yellow K7164-J from Sensient.

Advantageously, the mixture is contained in an amount of 0.00015 to 0.005 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

Brief description of the Figures

Fig.1 shows the testing procedure of make-up removing (MUR) efficacy using a Chromome ter.

Fig.2 shows comparative results of MUR for two compositions BLWater 35 and EM-Water 41. Examples

The examples below are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it. The numerical values in the examples are percentages by weight, based on the total weight of the particular preparations; given as active content, unless otherwise indicated.

Examples 1 : Compositions 1 - 5

^* raw material content;

^** referring to the weight of the total composition.

The composition according to the present invention may be prepared by any technique known or effective to prepare a cleansing composition of the kind of the present invention. The process to prepare the composition of the present invention comprises conventional formulating and mixing techniques.

Specifically, the composition of the present invention is preferably produced with the follow ing procedure:

1. melt and mix components of part A in a water bath, keep the temperature at 50⁵C;

2. mix the component(s) of part B;

3. mix part A and part B and keep temperature at 35 ⁵C, stir until the mixture is homoge nous and clear;

4. add part C to the mixture of A and B, stir until all components are completely dissolved;

5. add part D to the mixture of A, B, and C to adjust pH value to a value in the range of 4.5 to 7.5, preferably 4.5 to 5.0. Example 2: Make-up removing efficacy

In order to prove the make-up removing efficacy a composition according to the invention (EM-water 41 ) and a comparative composition (BLWater 35, benchmark) were produced.

The composition of EM-water 41 and BLWater 35 is the same as described below for the epicutaneous patch test. The test procedure is illustrated in Fig.1 , wherein

Make-up Removing (MUR) Efficacy using a Chromometer

Removal ratio: AL and Aa: (T1 - T2) / (T1 - TO) x 100;

TO: Chromometer value before application of make-up;

T 1 : Chromometer value after application of make-up;

T2: Chromometer value after using the products BLWater 35 or EM-Water 41.

Results are shown in Fig.2. It is obvious that the composition according to the invention has a significant higher make-up removing efficacy.

Example 3: RBC assay

In order to prove that the composition according to the invention is mild and non-irritative a RBC assay (1 hour protocol) was performed.

Method of the Red Blood Cell Assay (RBC) using 1 hour protocol:

The cell membrane destroying and protein denaturating properties of test samples are exam ined by measuring the release of haemoglobin (haemolysis) and the spectral changes of haemoglobin (protein denaturation) from bovine erythrocytes.

The RBC test (1 hour) has been used within the EC/HO International Validation Study (Balls et al., 1995) and the COLIPA Validation Project on alternatives to the Draize eye irritation test (Brantom et al., 1997). The test demonstrated its validity for the assessment of the in vivo eye irritation potential.

Range finding and denaturation:

Defined aliquots of bovine erythrocytes are incubated by shaking for one hour at room tem perature with increasing concentrations of test sample (1 , 10, 100, 1000, 10000, 100000 mg/I in PBS at pH 7.4). After centrifugation the spectral absorption of released hemoglobin is de termined photometrically at 541 nm in the resulting supernatants (extracellular hemoglobin). The cells of the pellet are lysed with water and the spectral absorption of this solution (intra cellular hemoglobin) is also determined at 541 nm. The Di_ow (threshold concentration [mg/I] > 10% denaturation) and the D_max (maximum dena- turation [%]) are calculated from the change of total hemoglobin absorption (intra- and extra cellular) in comparison to the total native hemoglobin (Hb0₂) of the 100% control.

Hemolysis:

Defined aliquots of bovine erythrocytes are incubated in the same way as before with a se ries of narrow concentrations chosen from the results of the range finding experiment. After centrifugation the hemoglobin concentration of the resulting supernatants is determined pho tometrically on 541 nm and the relative hemolysis release is calculated. The H₅o [mg/I], indi cating the concentration at which 50% of the hemoglobin is released, is determined from the concentration-response curve.

Based on the H₅o value, different prediction models for surfactants and surfactant-based for mulations for the prediction of the eye irritation potential corresponding to the MMAS score of the Draize Eye Irritation Test were defined. The most relevant for this test of a raw material would be the prediction model for surfactants (Pape et al., 1999). The results of the COLIPA validation study suggest that in general H₅o values > 5,000 to 10,000 mg/I indicate that the test material is not or only minimally irritant to eyes.

Additional criteria to classify the eye irritation potential based on the protein denaturation were defined in the standard operating procedure. Accordingly, a maximal denaturation (D _max ) > 50% accompanied by a denaturation threshold value (D_|0W) of < 10,000 mg/I a poten tial of severe eye irritation. Additionally, a maximal denaturation (D_max) of > 10% is indicating that eye irritation might occur; denaturation threshold values (D_|0W) significantly higher than 10,000 mg/ml indicate no or only minimal potential of eye irritation.

A composition according to the invention (EM-Water#41 ) was analyzed by the RBC assay (1 hour protocol) together with compositions EM-Water#30, EM-Water#42, EM-Water#43, and EM-Water #44.

^*raw material content.

The results obtained from the RBC assay reveal that all the compositions tested are non irritant. Example 4: HET-CAM

In order to further prove that the composition according to the invention does not cause any irritations a Hen’s Egg Test was conducted.

The HET-CAM is used to assess the acute eye irritation potential of test compounds (chemi cals, cosmetic formulations etc.).

Test compounds are applied for five minutes directly onto the chorioallantoic membrane of the hen's egg. The time of occurrence and/or severity of vascular injuries (hemorrhage), co agulations (intra- and extravascular) and other effects are assessed visually and recorded. The earlier a reaction occurs and the stronger the reaction is, the higher is the eye irritation potential.

The test method is based on a protocol used in a large German validation study and availa ble as DB-ALM protocol no. 47 (https i//ecvam-dbalm.irc.ec.europa.eu/).

Description of the method:

Fertile White Leghorn chicken eggs are incubated at 37.5°C (± 0.5°C) and relative humidity of 62.5 % (± 7.5 %) for nine to ten days. At day 10 the egg shell is opened at the air cell pole and the inner membrane is removed carefully to free the chorioallantoic membrane (CAM). 300 mI of liquid or 100 mg of solid test compounds are applied to the surface of the CAM and incubated for five minutes. During this time, the membrane is examined visually by naked eye (and checked with a stereo microscope at 30x magnification) for any damage and the time is recorded at which reactions appear. Furthermore, the degree of severity for each re action is assessed (no, slight, moderate or severe reaction). Most common reactions are hemorrhages (bleeding), vascular lysis (blood vessel disintegration) and coagulation (intra- and extravascular). The most important reactions are the coagulations, in particular the ex tra-vascular coagulation that often corresponds with cornea opacity in the Draize Rabbit Eye Test. Test samples are tested on three eggs per concentration, usually undiluted and in ap propriate dilutions in 0.9 % sodium chloride solution or olive oil.

Additionally, further dilutions can be tested to determine the irritation threshold (IT), which is defined as the highest concentration of the test compound at which maximally slight reac tions occur after five minutes. For transparent test compounds start of reactions and severity is recorded (reaction time protocol). For non-transparent test compounds, where the continuous observation of the CAM is not possible, the severity of the reactions after five minutes is recorded (solids proto col).

The results of the test shown above clearly reveal that the composition according to the in vention (EM-WATER#41 ) does not cause any irritations in vitro. As this test is a very sensi tive one, the results are indicating that in vivo no irritative reactions of the skin and the eye area are expected.

Example 5: In vivo testing

To further prove that also in vivo no irritative reactions are observed, an in vivo testing was conducted. 30 individuals used a product of the invention62994-20 (EM-Water#41 ) and a comparative product (62994-30, blwater#35) for two weeks. The composition of EM-water 41 and BLWater 35 is the same as described below for the epicutaneous patch test. Each prod uct was applied on one half of the face. The skin and eye area were evaluated by a derma tologist.

Referring to the clinical signs, such as erythema, edema, dryness, scaling, fissures, vesicles, papules, pustules and excoriated erythematous macules (objective responses), there was no overall increase in none of the graded clinical signs on the face after 2 weeks of product ap plication for both products. Referring to functional signs, such as itching, burning, tension, tickling, dryness and redness (subjective responses), there was no overall increase in none of the reported functional signs on the face after 2 weeks of product use for both products.

Referring to an ophthalmological evaluation (ocular acceptability), no signs of intolerance to the tested products have been observed on the conjunctiva and cornea (of both right and left).

Example 6: Epicutaneous patch test

Furthermore, an epicutaneous patch test was conducted to evaluate the skin tolerance. 31 subjects ranging from 21 to 64 years of age, of those 1 1 subjects with highly SDS sensitive skin (35%), 13 subjects with SDS sensitive skin (42%) and 7 subjects with less / not SDS sensitive skin (23%) took part in the study. 4 products were tested using the following proce dures to assess skin reactions. Test products and internal standard were applied to the sub ject’s back, where they remained for 24 hours. The application sites were visually assessed approximately 3 hours (day 2 scores) after removal of the patches in accordance with the Irritation Grading Scale. The application was repeated up to 4 times for 21 hours each, or up to the first sign of skin irritation (score > 1 ). Visual scoring was performed 3 hours after patch removal on days 3, 4 and 5.

^* no further product application.

All assessments were performed under normal atmospheric conditions.

The following results were obtained:

From this study it becomes apparent that the composition according to the invention (62765- 30; em-water 41 ) was evaluated as very good, indicating a very good skin tolerance.

Claims

1. A cleansing composition, especially a face cleansing composition, containing

at least one alkyl poly glycoside,

at least one anionic surfactant based on an amino acid,

a mixture of polyglycerol based emulsifiers, and

at least one ethoxylated alkyl glyceride emulsifier.

2. The cleansing composition according to claim 1 characterized in that the cleansing composition contains water in an amount of 80 to 99 % by weight, preferably 90 to 98 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

3. The cleansing composition according to claim 1 or 2 characterized in that the at least one alkyl poly glycoside has an alkyl group R, wherein R has 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms, more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms.

4. The cleansing composition according to any of preceding claims characterized in that the sugar moiety of the at least one alkyl poly glycosideis glucose.

5. The cleansing composition according to any of preceding claims characterized in that the alkyl poly glycosideis decylglucoside.

6. The cleansing composition according to any of preceding claims characterized in that the at least one alkyl poly glycoside is contained in a total amount of 0.01 to 2.0 % by weight, preferably 0.02 to 1 .0 % by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 0.5 % by weight, in relation to the active content and in relation to the total weight of the composition.

7. The cleansing composition according to any of preceding claims characterized in that the at least one anionic surfactant based on an amino acid is chosen from N-acyl ami no acids, preferably N-acyl glutamate, more preferably disodium/sodium cocoylgluata- mate.

8. The cleansing composition according to any of preceding claims characterized in that the at least one anionic surfactant based on amino acids is contained in a total amount of 0.001 to 0.05 % by weight, preferably 0.002 to 0.01 % by weight, in relation to the active content and in relation to the total weight of the composition.

9. The cleansing composition according to any of preceding claims characterized in that the mixture of polyglycerol based emulsifiers contains Polyglyceryl 3 cocoate, Poly glyceryl-6 caprylate, Polyglyceryl-4 caprate, and/or Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate.

10. The cleansing composition according to any of preceding claims characterized in that the mixture of polyglycerol based emulsifiers contains Polyglyceryl 3 cocoate, Poly glyceryl-6 caprylate, Polyglyceryl-4 caprate, and Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate only.

1 1. The cleansing composition according to any of preceding claims characterized in that the mixture of polyglycerol based emulsifiers is contained in an amount of 0.1 to 4.0 % by weight, preferably 0.5 to 3.0 % by weight in relation to the total weight of the compo sition.

12. The cleansing composition according to any of preceding claims characterized in that the at least one ethoxylated alkyl glyceride emulsifier is PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate.

13. The cleansing composition according to any of preceding claims characterized in that the at least one ethoxylated alkyl glyceride emulsifier is in a total amount of 0.1 to

7.5 % by weight, preferably 0.2 to 2.0 % by weight, in relation to the active content and in relation to the total weight of the composition.

14. The cleansing composition according to any of preceding claims characterized in that at least oneadditional emulsifier being different from the emulsifiers contained in the mixture of polyglycerol based emulsifiers and the ethoxylated alkyl glyceride emulsifiers is further contained.

15. The cleansing composition according to claim 14 characterized in that the at least one- additional emulsifier is PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor oil.

16. The cleansing composition according to claim 14 or 15 characterized in that the at least one additional emulsifier is contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 7.5 % by weight, pref erably 0.5 to 5.0 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

17. The cleansing composition according to any of preceding claims characterized in that at least one humectant, preferably chosen from diols, such as 1 ,2-pentandiol, 1 ,2- hexandiol, and 1 ,2-octandiol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and butylene glycol, glyceryl triacetate, glycerol, sorbitol, xylitol, maltitol, polydextrose, urea, Aloe vera gel, and/or alpha hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, honey, is further contained.

18. The cleansing composition according to claim 17 characterized in that the at least one humectant is chosen from glycerol, sorbitol, and/or 1 ,2-hexandiol.

19. The cleansing composition according to claim 17 or 18 characterized in that the at least one humectant is contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 7.5 % by weight, preferably 1.0 to 5.0 % by weight, in relation to the active content and in relation to the total weight of the composition.

20. The cleansing composition according to any of preceding claims characterized in that at least one compound having a caring and/or conditioning function of the skin, prefer ably Polyquaternium-10, is further contained.

21 . The cleansing composition according to claim 20 characterized in that Polyquaternium- 10 is contained in an amount of 0.01 to 1.0 % by weight, preferably 0.03 to 0.5 % by weight, in relation to the active content and in relation to the total weight of the compo sition.

22. The cleansing composition according to any of preceding claims characterized in that at least one preservative, preferably chosen from parabens and/or Phenoxyethanol, is further contained.

23. The cleansing composition according to claim22 characterized in that Phenoxyethanol is contained, in an amount of 0.01 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 0.05 to 3.0 % by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 0.9 % by weight in the composition according to the in vention, in relation to the total weight of the composition.

24. The cleansing composition to any of the preceding claims characterized in that the cleansing composition is a cleansing water.

25. The cleansing composition, especially a face cleansing compositionaccording to any of the preceding claims characterized in that micelles are contained, wherein a micelle in water system is built.