WO2012168126A2

WO2012168126A2 - Process for producing a transparent cosmetic cleansing composition

Info

Publication number: WO2012168126A2
Application number: PCT/EP2012/060202
Authority: WO
Inventors: Kirsten Sartingen; Barbara Heide; Stefanie Schmitz
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2011-06-08
Filing date: 2012-05-31
Publication date: 2012-12-13
Also published as: WO2012168126A3; DE102011077221A1

Abstract

The invention relates to a process for producing a transparent cosmetic cleansing composition, comprising the following process steps: a) providing a cosmetic carrier, b) providing a surfactant mixture comprising (i) at least one alkyl (oligo)glycoside and (ii) at least one salt of a sulphosuccinic ester, c) providing a premix - other than b) - comprising (i) at least one water-insoluble component, (ii) at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant and/or (iii) at least one alkyl (oligo)glycoside, and d) mixing components a), b) and c). The compositions cleanse and nourish the skin and impart a fresh feel thereto.

Description

"Process for the preparation of a transparent cosmetic cleaning agent"

The invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to a process for the preparation of a transparent cosmetic cleanser and a special natural cosmetic cleanser.

Cosmetic cleansers such as liquid soaps, shampoos, shower baths, bubble baths, shower gels and / or wash gels have long been known and are regularly adapted to the changing needs of consumers.

In recent years, as a result of consumers' increasing environmental awareness, novel preparations have been developed that can clean and care for the human body in just one application step.

These preparations have the advantage that they cause less packaging waste and require less water consumption, time and / or cost.

The problem with the preparation of these preparations is the incorporation of water-insoluble care components whose dispersion and stabilization in the cleaning agents often succeed only through the incorporation of crystalline or polymeric components.

To make matters worse, that there is an increasing desire for transparent natural cosmetic products, which makes the preparation of the preparations even more complicated.

In the published patent application WO 2010/009978 a transparent care cleaning agent is disclosed which, in addition to water-insoluble components, contains a special mixture of ethoxylated emulsifiers.

However, the use of ethoxylated ingredients must be avoided in the production of natural cosmetic cleaning agents for reasons of sustainability.

Accordingly, there is still the consumer desire for transparent natural cosmetic cleaning agents, coupled with the desire to achieve the cleaning and care performance of conventional means.

The present invention has for its object to develop a process for the preparation of transparent cleaning agents that satisfy this consumer desire for natural cosmetic Satisfy compositions yet be able to achieve excellent cleaning and care benefits.

The present application is in a first embodiment, a method for producing a transparent cosmetic cleaning agent, comprising the following steps:

a) providing a cosmetic carrier,

b) providing a surfactant mixture containing

(i) at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside and

(ii) at least one salt of a sulfosuccinic acid ester,

c) providing at least one premix other than b) containing

(i) at least one water-insoluble component,

(ii) at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant and / or

(iii) at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside, and

d) mixing components a), b) and c).

By "transparent" is meant that the cosmetic detergent at 25 ° C preferably a turbidity <250 NTU (Nephelometry Turbidity Unit = Nephelometric turbidity value), more preferably <150 NTU, more preferably <100, particularly preferably <50 (measured, for example with a device "2100P Turbidimeter" from Hach).

Suitable cosmetic carriers preferably contain at least 80% by weight of water.

Furthermore, the cosmetic carrier may contain from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight and in particular from 0.05 to 5% by weight, of an alcohol selected may be ethanol, glycerine, sorbitol or mixtures of these

Alcohols.

Preference is given to a process according to the invention in which at least 95% by weight of ingredients of natural origin are used, the amount given being based on the total weight of the cosmetic cleansing agent.

The cleaning agent obtainable by the process according to the invention is preferably a natural cosmetic (according to Ecocert standard).

Natural cosmetics are products which, subject to the exceptions mentioned later, are made exclusively of natural substances (ingredients of natural origin).

Natural products are defined in more detail later in this application. Within this first embodiment, it is preferred according to the invention if the surfactant mixture used in process step b) contains the following components A to D, based on the total weight of the surfactant mixture:

A. 20 to 60 wt .-%, preferably 25 to 55 wt .-% and in particular 30 to 50 wt .-% of at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside of the general formula RO- [G] _x , in the R for an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 8 to 18 C atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 C atoms and x is a number from 1 to 10,

B. 1 to 25 wt .-%, preferably 3 to 20 wt .-% and in particular 5 to 15 wt .-% of at least one Sulfobernsteinsäureestersalzes the following formula (I)

in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₈ -C ₂ alkyl radical and X is an alkali metal or ammonium cation,

C. 1 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 5 to 12 wt .-% and in particular 8 to 10 wt .-% of at least one polyol and

D. 40 to 50 wt .-% water.

Preferred alkyl (oligo) glycosides A are derived from aldoses and / or ketoses having 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose.

The index number x in the general formula RO- [G] _{x stands} for the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie for the distribution of the mono- and oligoglycosides. The index number x preferably has a value in the range of 1 to 6, particularly preferably in the range of 1 to 3, which may be an integer but not a whole number, which can be determined analytically. Particularly preferred alkyl (oligo) glycosides A have a degree of oligomerization of between 1.2 and 1.5.

Particularly preferred alkyl (oligo) glycosides A are known and commercially available from various suppliers under the INCI names Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside and Coco Glucoside.

Preferred sulfosuccinic acid esters of the formula (I) are those in which the radical R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₈ -C ₁₈ -alkyl radical, preferably a C ₁₀ - C ₆ alkyl radical and in particular a C ₂ -C ₄ alkyl.

Particularly preferred are the alkali salts of lauryl sulfosuccinate.

Particularly preferred is the succinic acid ester salt available under the INCI name Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate. Suitable polyols C are understood to mean the same polyols, which may also be constituents of the cosmetic carrier. Among the suitable polyols, glycerin is a particularly preferred polyol of the surfactant mixture b).

Particularly preferred are surfactant mixtures b), which - based on their total weight -

A. 30 to 50% by weight of at least one of the alkyl (oligo) glycosides available under the INCI names Decyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside and / or Coco Glucoside,

From 5 to 15% by weight of a sulfosuccinic acid salt available under the INCI name Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate,

C. 8 to 10 wt .-% glycerol and

D. 40 to 50 wt .-% water.

Usually, the surfactant mixture b) is prepared before carrying out the process according to the invention from the aforementioned constituents.

Alternatively, however, a commercially available surfactant mixture b) can also be used in the process according to the invention.

An example of a commercially available surfactant b) which is suitable for use in the present process is obtainable from Cognis surfactant Plantapon ^® PSC (INCI name: Coco Glucoside, Disodium Lauryl sulfosuccinates, Glycerin, Aqua).

Suitable water-insoluble components which can be used in the method according to the invention in premix c) are understood to mean all water-insoluble cosmetic active ingredients and / or active substance mixtures which are of botanical origin.

Preference is given to active substances and / or mixtures of active substances which correspond to the Ecocert standard for herbal ingredients.

Particularly preferred are perfume oils and / or water-insoluble plant extracts which are at least 5% organic and can be prepared from the leaves, fruits, seeds and / or cores of the following plants: aloe vera, mango, apricot, peach, olives, ginseng , Ginger and / or argan.

An example of a particularly suitable water-insoluble component, which can be used in the inventive method, the obtainable under the name Bio PW Argantesyl ^® LS 9902 by the company Laboratoires Serobiologiques plant extract mixture.

As stated earlier in this application, water-insoluble components are difficult to stabilize in cleaning compositions without their Clarity (transparency) or other property of the cleaning compositions (eg the viscosity) is negatively changed.

It has been found that this disadvantage can be overcome with the method according to the invention by predissolving one or more water-insoluble components with at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant and / or at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside (optionally with the addition of water), and then with gentle stirring with the cosmetic carrier a) and the surfactant mixture b) is (are) mixed.

The process according to the invention does not require a specific sequence in the mixing of the components a) to c). It is in principle possible to initially introduce a surfactant mixture b) in a suitable carrier a), and then to add the premix (s) c), which is different from b). It is likewise possible first of all to add the premix (s) c) other than b) and then the surfactant mixture b) to the cosmetic carrier a).

In a first preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention, a previously described cosmetic carrier is initially introduced. Subsequently, all optional components (to be described later) and the surfactant mixture b) are incorporated into the carrier, it being preferred if all steps are carried out at room temperature by mixing (in particular by gentle stirring) of the respective component with the carrier.

After the addition of the b) different premix (s) c), which preferably also takes place at room temperature by stirring the premix (s) c) in the carrier described above, if necessary, in a last process step, the pH and the viscosity of the cleaning agent adjusted to the respectively desired values.

The zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants which are suitable for the preparation of the premix (s) c) are preferably selected from compounds of the following formulas (II) to (IV) in which the radical R is in each case straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms

Oil) (Iii)

Particularly preferred zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants are the surfactants available commercially from various manufacturers under the INCI names coco-betaine, cocoampho (di) acetate and / or cocamidopropylbetaine.

Especially preferred is the amphoteric surfactant known by the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine.

In a second preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention, the premix c) contains, based on the total weight of the cosmetic cleaning agent, from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight of at least one water-insoluble component,

From 0.5 to 5% by weight of at least one previously defined alkyl (oligo) glycoside,

0.1 to 2 wt .-% of at least one previously defined amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant and

- 0.5 to 10 wt .-% water.

Within this embodiment, it is more preferred if the premix c) - based on the total weight of the cosmetic cleaning agent -

0.01 to 0.4% by weight of at least one water-insoluble perfume,

1 to 4% by weight of at least one of the INCI names Decyl Glucoside,

Lauryl glucoside and / or coco glucoside known alkyl (oligo) glycosides,

0.25 to 1.5% by weight of at least one of the INCI names coco-betaine,

Disodium cocoamphodiacetate and / or cocamidopropyl betaine known amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and

1 to 7.5 wt .-% water.

Within this embodiment, it is particularly preferred if the premix c) - based on the total weight of the cosmetic cleaning agent - 0.1 to 0.3 wt .-% of at least one water-insoluble perfume,

2 to 3% by weight of the alkyl (oligo) glycoside known under the INCI name Coco Glucoside,

0.5 to 1% by weight of the amphoteric surfactant known under the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine, and

- 2 to 5 wt .-% water. In a third preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention, the premix c) contains - based on the total weight of the cosmetic cleaning agent - 0.0001 to 0.5 wt .-% of at least one water-insoluble component,

- 0.5 to 7.5 wt .-% water.

0.0005 to 0.3% by weight of at least one water-insoluble plant extract,

0.2 to 1, 5 wt .-% of at least one of the INCI names coco-betaine,

Contains 0.75 to 5 wt .-% water.

Within this embodiment, it is particularly preferred if the premix c) - based on the total weight of the cosmetic cleaning agent -

From 0.001 to 0.1% by weight of at least one water-insoluble plant extract derived from at least 5% organically grown and from the leaves, fruits, roots, seeds and / or kernels of the aloe vera, mango, apricot, Win peach, olive, ginseng, ginger and / or argan plants,

0.25 to 0.75% by weight of the amphoteric surfactant known by the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine, and

1 to 4 wt .-% water.

In a fourth preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention, two different premixes c) are prepared, which preferably correspond to the premixes of the second and third embodiments of the method according to the invention described above. Subsequently, these two premixes c) are mixed with the components a) and b) in the manner described above.

The subject of the present application is a cosmetic cleanser which is in a cosmetic carrier

at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside,

at least one sulfosuccinic ester salt,

at least one further co-surfactant selected from amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants and contains at least one water-insoluble component,

with the proviso that the cosmetic cleaning agent - based on its total weight - consists of at least 80% by weight of ingredients which fulfill at least one of the following criteria:

(a) substances of botanical, inorganic-mineral or animal origin (excluding dead vertebrates) and their mixtures and reaction products with each other (natural products), with the exception of physical processes, pH-adjusting agents, enzymatic and chemical processing microbiological processes using only naturally occurring enzymes or microorganisms have been used;

b) they are natural fragrances (essential oils) that comply with ISO standard 9235;

(c) they are substances obtained by one or more of the following chemical reactions starting from natural products: hydrolysis (including saponification), neutralization, condensation with elimination of water, esterification, transesterification, hydrogenation, hydrogenolysis, dehydration, glycosylation, Phosphorylation, sulfation, acylation, amidation, oxidation (with oxygen, ozone and peroxides) and pyrolysis;

d) it is water.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic cleaning agent is transparent.

Preferred cosmetic cleaning agents contain - based on the total weight of the cleaning agent -

- 1 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 2 to 25 wt .-%, more preferably 3 to 20 wt .-% and in particular 4 to 15 wt .-% of at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside of the general formula RO- [G ] _x , in which R is an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 8 to 18 C atoms,

G stands for a sugar residue with 5 or 6 C atoms and x stands for numbers from 1 to 10,

0.01 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.025 to 10% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 5% by weight of at least one sulfosuccinic ester salt of the following formula (I)

1 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 2 to 25 wt .-%, more preferably 3 to 20 wt .-% and in particular 4 to 15 wt .-% of at least one amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants of the following formulas (II) to (IV),

in which the radical R is in each case a straight-chain or branched, saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl or alkenyl radical having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and

at least one water-insoluble component selected from perfume oils and / or plant extracts.

As suitable alkyl (oligo) glycosides, sulfosuccinic ester salts, amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants and water-insoluble components, the cleaning agent according to the invention preferably contains those substances which have already been defined in detail in earlier sections of this application.

A particularly suitable surfactant combination for the cleaning agents according to the invention preferably contains at least one of the alkyl (oligo) glycosides known under the INCI names Coco glucoside, decyl glucoside or lauryl glucoside and at least one of the INCI names coco-betaine, cocoampho (di) acetate or cocamidopropyl betaine known amphoteric surfactants. The cosmetic cleaning agent may contain, in addition to the aforementioned surfactants and water-insoluble components, other optional ingredients, provided that the transparency of the cleaning agent is maintained and provided that at least 80% by weight of its total weight is composed of ingredients which are at least meet one of the aforementioned criteria.

Further preferred cosmetic cleansing agents are natural cosmetic cleansing agents.

Natural cosmetics are products that are manufactured exclusively from natural products (active ingredients of natural origin), subject to the following exceptions.

Natural substances are substances of botanical, inorganic-mineral or animal origin (except dead vertebrates) as well as their mixtures and reaction products among themselves. Only physical processes (including extraction) and pH adjusters are authorized for recovery and further processing. In addition, enzymatic and microbiological processes are permitted when only naturally occurring enzymes or microorganisms are used. The treatment of plant and animal raw materials as well as the end product with ionizing radiation is not permitted. Bleaching of natural products is permitted, but not using chlorine (sodium hypochlorite).

In natural cosmetics, those natural fragrances (essential oils) that comply with ISO standard 9235 can be used. These include isolates of essential oils and reconstituted essential oils. Synthetic nature-identical fragrances and chemically modified natural fragrances must not be used in natural cosmetics.

The origin of the water used in natural cosmetics is arbitrary. In the calculation of the natural product content of the finished product, this is considered in any case only as a natural product, if it comes directly from a vegetable source (directly derived plant juices).

Natural preservatives may be used for the preservation of natural cosmetics [subject to the conditions set out in Annex VI (first part) of Directive 76/768 / EEC]. Moreover, nature-identical inorganic pigments and minerals can be used in natural cosmetics.

For the production of natural cosmetics otherwise only natural materials may be used, which by chemical reaction starting from natural products such. As fats, oils, botanical, inorganic-mineral or animal growth (except dead vertebrates), lecithins, mono-, oligo- and polysaccharides, proteins, lipoproteins can be obtained. The following chemical reactions are permitted: hydrolysis (including saponification), Neutralization, condensation with elimination of water, esterification, transesterification, hydrogenation, hydrogenolysis, dehydrogenation, glycosylation, phosphorylation, sulfation, acylation, amidation, oxidation (with oxygen, ozone and peroxides) and pyrolysis. Near-natural substances also include other substances which, although they occur naturally, can not be obtained from their natural sources in sufficient quantities according to the respective state of the art.

According to the invention, very particular preference is given to cosmetic cleansing compositions which, based on their total weight, comprise at least 85% by weight, preferably at least 90% by weight, and in particular at least 95% by weight, of ingredients which are listed in US Pat the following substances are selected:

- Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba / Sunflower - Algin

Seed Wax / Polyglyceryl-3 Esters

- Alginic Acid - Aluminum Stearate

- Ammonium Alum - Ammonium Coco Sulfate

- Ammonium Glycyrrhizate - Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate

- anhydroxylitol - arachidyl alcohol

- Arachidyl Glucoside - Arginine

- ascorbic acid - ascorbyl dipalmitate

- Ascorbyl Palmitate Behenyl Alcohol

Behenyl Beeswax Brassica Campestris / Aleurites

Fordi Oil Copolymer

- C12-20 alkyl glucoside - C 14-22 Alcohols

- Calcium Alginate - Calcium Glycerophosphate

- Calcium Lactates - Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides

- Capryloyl Glycine - Caprylyl Caprylate

- Caprylyl / caprylic glucosides

- Cellulose - Ceramides

- Cetearyl Alcohol - Cetearyl Glucoside

- Cetearyl Olivate - Cetyl Alcohol

- Cetyl Palmitate - Cetyl Ricinoleate

- chitosan - chitosan glycolate

- Chitosan lactate - Chitosan PCA

- Cholesterol - cholesteryl hydroxystearates

- Cl 75470 - Cl 75810 - coco-betaine - cocoampho (di) acetate

- cocamidopropyl betaine

- coco-glucosides - cocoglycerides

- Coconut Alcohol - Com Starch Modified

- Cyclodextrin Decyl Cocoate

Decyl Glucoside Decyl Oleate

Dehydroxanthan Gum Dextrin Palmitate

Dicaprylyl ether dihydroxyacetone

Dipalmitoylhydroxyproline disodium coco-glucosides

Citrate

Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate Distarch Phosphate

Erythrulose Ethyl Lactate

- Gellan Gum - Glucose Glutamate

- Glycerol - Glyceryl Abietate

- Glyceryl Behenate - Glyceryl Caprate

- Glyceryl Caprylate - Glyceryl

Citrate / Lactate / Linoleate / Oleate

- Glyceryl Dibehenate - Glyceryl Dioleate

- Glyceryl Distearate - Glyceryl Glucoside

- Glyceryl Lactate - Glyceryl Laurate

- Glyceryl Linoleates - Glyceryl Linolenates

- Glyceryl Oleate - Glyceryl Oleate Citrate

- Glyceryl Ricinoleate - Glyceryl Sorbitan Oleostearate

- Glyceryl Stearate - Glyceryl Stearate Citrate

- Glyceryl Stearate SE - Glycyrrhetinic Acid

Hydrogenated Apricot Kernel Oil Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides Hydrogenated Coconut Oil

Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil Hydrogenated Jojoba Wax

Hydrogenated Lecithin Hydrogenated Meadowfoam

Seed oil

Hydrogenated Olive Oil Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides

Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate Hydrogenated Palm Kernel

Glycerides

Hydrogenated Palm Oil Hydrogenated Peanut Oil

Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil Hydrolyzed Algae Extract

Hydrolyzed Beeswax Hydrolyzed Fibroin

Hydrolyzed Hibiscus Esculentus Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters Extract

Hydrolyzed Keratin Hydrolyzed Lola Implexa

Extract

Hydrolyzed Milk Protein Hydrolyzed Rhizobian Gum

Hydrolyzed Rice Protein Hydrolyzed Silk

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein Hydrolyzed Sweet Almond

protein

- Hydrolyzed Wheat Gluten Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

Hydroxystearic / Linolenic / Linoleic Hydroxystearic / Linolenic / Oleic Polyglycerides Polyglycerides

Isoamyl Laurate Isostearyl Hydroxystearate

- Jojoba Esters Lanolin Alcohol

Lauroyl Lysine Lauryl Alcohol

Lauryl Glucoside Lauryl Lactate

Lauryl Lau rate - Lauryl PCA

Levulinic acid lysolecithin

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate Magnesium Gluconate

Magnesium Stearate - Maltitol

Maltodextrin mannitol

Menthanediol -

Microcrystalline Cellulose Myristic Acid

- Myristyl Alcohol Myristyl Glucoside

Myristyl lactate myristyl myristate

- Octyldodecanol - Oleyl Alcohol

- oleyl erucate - oryzanol

Palm Kernel Acid Palmitic Acid

Palmityl Alcohol p-Anisic Acid

- PCA - PCA Ethyl Cocoyl Arginate

- PCA Glyceryl Oleate Phytostey I / Octy Idod ecy I

Lauroyl Glutamate

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate

Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate Polyglyceryl-2

polyhydroxystearate Polyglyceryl-3-caprylate polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate

Polyglyceryl-3 Laurate Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate

Polyglyceryl-3 Palmitate Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate

Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate

Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate Polyglyceryl-5 Lau rate

Polyglyceryl-5 Oleate Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate

Polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate polyglyceryl-6 oleate

Polyglyceryl-6 Stearate Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Potassium Cocoate Potassium Laurate

Potassium Myristate Potassium Olivate

Potassium Palmitate Potassium Palmitoyl

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

Potassium Stearate - Saccharide Isomerate

- Sodium Alginate - Sodium Anisate

- Sodium Beeswax - Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate

- Sodium Cocoate - Sodium Coco-Glucoside

tartrate

- Sodium Cocopolyglucose Tartrate - Sodium Coco Sulfate

- Sodium Cocoyl Alaninate - Sodium Cocoyl Amino Acids

- Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate - Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed

Wheat protein

- Sodium Lauroyl Glutamate - Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

- Sodium Lauryl Sulfate - Sodium Levulinate

- Sodium myristate - Sodium myristoyl glutamate

- Sodium Oleanolate - Sodium Olivate

- Sodium Palm Kernelate - Sodium Palmate

- Sodium Palmitate - Sodium PCA

- Sodium Phytate - Sodium Stearate

- Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate - Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate

- Sodium Tallowate - Sodium Ursolate

- Sorbitan Laurate - Sorbitan Oleate

- Sorbitan Olivate - Sorbitan Palmitate

- Sorbitan Sesquicaprylate - Sorbitan Stearate

- sorbitol - soybean glycerides

- squalane - squalene - Stearic Acid - Stearyl Alcohol

- Stearyl Beeswax - sucrose cocoate

- Sucrose Distearate - Sucrose Laurate

- sucrose palmitate - sucrose polystearate

- Sucrose Stearate - Sucrose Tristearate

- Sulfated Castor Oil - Sunflower Seed Sorbitol Esters

- Tocopheryl Acetate - Tribehenin

- tricaprylin - triethyl citrate

Undecylenic Acid - Water

- xylitol - xylitylglucosides

- Zinc Citrate - Zinc PCA

- Zinc Ricinoleate - Zinc Stearate

In a first preferred embodiment, cosmetic according to the invention contain

Detergent - based on the total weight of the agent -

1 to 30% by weight of at least one of the alkyl (oligo) glycosides known under the INCI names coco glucoside, decyl glucoside or lauryl glucoside,

0.01 to 15% by weight of a succinic acid ester known under the INCI name Sodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate,

From 1 to 30% by weight of at least one of the amphoteric surfactants known under the INCI names coco-betaine, cocoampho (di) acetate or cocamidopropyl betaine, from 0.001 to 1% by weight of at least one water-insoluble perfume oil and / or a water-insoluble plant extract,

0, 1 to 5 wt .-% of at least one skin care component selected from polyols and / or mono-, di- and / or triesters of glycerol with at least one C ₈ - C ₂ 4 fatty acid, and

- 20 to 95 wt .-% water

with the proviso that the cosmetic cleaning agent - based on its total weight - consists of at least 85 wt .-% of ingredients of the aforementioned table.

Within this embodiment, more preferred cosmetic detergents according to the invention contain, based on their total weight,

From 2 to 25% by weight of at least one of the alkyl (oligo) glycosides known under the INCI names coco glucoside, decyl glucoside or lauryl glucoside,

0.025 to 10% by weight of a succinic acid ester known under the INCI name Sodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, 2 to 25 wt .-% of at least one of the known under the INCI names coco-betaine, cocoampho (di) acetate or cocamidopropyl betaine amphoteric surfactants, 0.0025 to 0.75 wt .-% of at least one water-insoluble perfume oil and / or a water-insoluble Plant extract, which may be selected from the leaves, fruits, seeds and / or kernels of the aloe vera, mango, apricot, peach, olive, ginseng, ginger and / or argan plant,

0, 1 to 3 wt .-% glycerol and / or sorbitol,

0, 1 to 2 wt .-% of at least one skin-care component selected from mono-, di- and / or triesters of glycerol with at least one C ₈ -C ₂ 4 fatty acid, and

From 30 to 90% by weight of water,

with the proviso that the cosmetic cleaning agent - based on its total weight - consists of at least 90 wt .-% of ingredients of the aforementioned table.

Within this embodiment, in particular preferred cosmetic cleaning agents according to the invention-based on their total weight-contain

4 to 15% by weight of at least one of the alkyl (oligo) glycoside known under the INCI name Coco Glucoside,

0.1 to 5% by weight of a succinic acid ester known by the INCI name Sodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate,

4 to 15% by weight of at least one of the amphoteric surfactant known by the INCI name cocamidopropyl betaine,

0.004 to 0.5 wt .-% of at least one water-insoluble perfume oil and / or a water-insoluble plant extract, which may be selected from the leaves, fruits, seeds and / or kernels of Aloe Vera, mango, apricot, peach, olives , Ginseng, ginger and / or argan plant,

0.25 to 2% by weight of glycerol,

0.1 to 2% by weight of a glycerin fatty acid ester known by the INCI name Glyceryl Oleate, and

From 50 to 90% by weight of water,

with the proviso that the cosmetic detergent - based on its total weight - consists of at least 95 wt .-% of ingredients of the aforementioned table.

The cleaning agents according to the invention preferably have a pH in a skin-friendly range of from 4 to 6, preferably from 4 to 5.5 and in particular from 4.5 to 5.0.

Cosmetic detergents preferred according to the invention preferably have a viscosity in the range from 1, 000 to 7,000 mPas, more preferably from 1, 500 to 6,000 mPas, especially preferably from 2,000 to 5,000 mPas and especially from 2,500 to 4,000 mPas (measured in each case with a Haake VT550 rotational viscometer, 20 ° C., measuring device MV, spindle MV II, 8 rpm).

Compositions of this viscosity can be conveniently and easily applied from a container to the hand or application surface without passing between the fingers and dripping. At the same time, the viscosity of the composition is low enough to ensure a satisfactory distribution on the surface of the application with the assistance of the hands.

The process according to the invention makes it possible to produce transparent cosmetic cleansing compositions which contain water-insoluble care components.

It does not require a high energy and / or cost, because the detergents can be prepared by simply mixing the premixes a), b) and c) - preferably at room temperature - produce.

In a preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention, it is possible to produce transparent natural-cosmetic cleaning compositions which are storage-stable and viscosity-stable.

The cleaning agents of the invention have excellent properties in the application to the skin.

They cleanse the skin perfectly, are well tolerated and give the skin a fresh and well-groomed feel during and after cleansing.

Detergents preferred according to the invention are transparent and fall under the Ecocert standard of a natural cosmetic.

The advantage of such a cleaning agent for the consumer is that he can use a biodegradable, aesthetically pleasing product, without having to give up the usual cleaning and care.

A third aspect of the invention is the use of a cosmetic cleaning agent according to the invention as a shower gel, shower bath, liquid soap, bubble bath and / or bath additive for the gentle and nourishing cleansing of the human body. example

The following transparent liquid soap was prepared by the process according to the invention (the amounts are based on the total weight of the liquid soap and are given in% by weight):

1) A cosmetic carrier a) was presented, which in addition to about 63 wt .-% water 2 wt .-% of Ecocert-certified skin care Lamesoft ^® PO 65, 13.2 wt .-% Ecocert certified Cocamidopropylbetain (40% in water) and 0.5% by weight of an Ecocert-certified preservative (RonaCare Sodium Benzoate),

2) 1 1 wt .-% of Ecocert certified commercial product Plantapon ^® PSC (surfactant b)) were incorporated into the cosmetic carrier a),

3) a first premix c1) was prepared which

0.2% by weight of a water-insoluble perfume oil with Ecocert certification,

2% by weight Ecocert certified cocamidopropyl betaine (40% in water) and

- 5 wt .-% Plantacare ^® 818 UP (containing about 2.6 wt .-% Coco Glucoside and 2.4 wt% water) containing

4) a second premix c2) was prepared which

- 0.005% by weight of the Ecocert certified plant extract Argantesyl® PW Bio LS 9902, 1% by weight Ecocert certified cocamidopropylbetaine (40% in water) and

- 2 wt .-% water.

5) The premixes c1) and c2) were mixed by gently stirring at room temperature with the cosmetic carrier a) containing the surfactant mixture b).

For the preparation of the transparent liquid soap according to the invention, the following commercial products were used:

Lamesof PO 65: INCI name: Coco Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate; Cognis; Plantapon ^® PSC: INCI name: Coco-Glucoside, Disodium Lauryl

sulfosuccinates; Cognis

Plantacare® ^® 818: INCI name: Aqua, Coco-Glucoside, Cognis

Argantesyl ^® PW Bio LS 9902: INCI name: Argania Spinosa Extract and sodium cocoyl

Glutamate; Laboratoires serobiologiques

Claims

claims

1. A process for the preparation of a transparent cosmetic cleaning agent which comprises the following process steps:

a) providing a cosmetic carrier,

b) providing a surfactant mixture containing

(i) at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside and

(ii) at least one salt of a sulfosuccinic acid ester,

c) providing at least one premix other than b) containing

(i) at least one water-insoluble component,

(ii) at least one amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant and / or

(iii) at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside, and

d) mixing components a), b) and c).

2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that in the process to at least 95 wt .-% ingredients of natural origin are used, wherein the amount refers to the total weight of the cosmetic cleaning agent.

3. The method according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the surfactant mixture contains b) - based on their total weight - the following components A to D:

D. 40 to 50 wt .-% water.

4. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the cosmetic detergent contains as water-insoluble component at least one perfume oil and / or at least one water-insoluble plant extra kt.

5. Cosmetic cleanser containing in a cosmetic carrier

at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside,

at least one sulfosuccinic ester salt,

at least one further co-surfactant selected from amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactants and

at least one water-insoluble component,

d) it is water.

6. Cosmetic cleanser according to claim 5, characterized in that it is transparent.

7. Cosmetic cleaning agent according to one of claims 5 or 6, characterized in that it contains - based on its total weight - the following components:

From 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 2 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 20% by weight and in particular from 4 to 15% by weight of at least one alkyl (oligo) glycoside of the general formula Formula RO- [G] _x , in which R stands for an alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 8 to 18 C atoms, G stands for a sugar residue with 5 or 6 C atoms and x for numbers from 1 to 10, - 0 , 01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.05 to 7.5 parts by weight

% and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight of at least one sulfosuccinic ester salt of the following formula (I)

From 1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 2 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 3 to 20% by weight and in particular from 4 to 15% by weight of at least one amphoteric and / or zwitterionic surfactant of the following formulas (II) to (IV),

8. Cosmetic cleaning agent according to one of claims 5 to 7, characterized in that it comprises at least one of the INCI names Coco glucoside, decyl glucoside or lauryl glucoside known alkyl (oligo) glycosides and at least one of the INCI names Coco Betaine, cocoampho (di) acetate or Cocamidopropylbetain known amphoteric surfactants.

9. Cosmetic cleaning agent according to one of claims 5 to 8, characterized in that it further contains at least one skin-care component which is selected from polyols and / or mono-, di- and / or triesters of glycerol having at least one C ₈ - C ₂ 4 fatty acid.

10. Use of a detergent according to any one of claims 5 to 9 as a shower gel, shower bath, liquid soap, bubble bath and / or bath additive for gentle and nourishing cleansing of the human body.