WO2019205047A1

WO2019205047A1 - Two-phase composition for topical application

Info

Publication number: WO2019205047A1
Application number: PCT/CN2018/084579
Authority: WO
Inventors: Yong Wang; Di SHEN
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2018-04-26
Filing date: 2018-04-26
Publication date: 2019-10-31
Also published as: CN112292112A; CN112292112B

Abstract

A two-phase composition for topical application comprises an aqueous phase and an oil phase which are separate, at least one polysaccharide as hydrophilic gelling agent and at least one polycondensate of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide having the formula (I) below: H-(O-CH ₂CH ₂) _x- (O-CH (CH ₃) -CH ₂) _y- (O-CH ₂CH ₂) _z-OH (I) in which x and z range from 2 to 150 and y ranges from 1 to 100.

Description

TWO-PHASE COMPOSITION FOR TOPICAL APPLICATION

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing make-up products from keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes. In particular, the present invention relates to a two-phase composition for topical application. The present invention also relates to a process for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing make-up products from keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes.

BACKGROUND

Compositions consisting of two separate phases, especially an aqueous phase and an oil phase which are separate and not emulsified together at rest, are generally referred to as "two-phase compositions" . Two-phase compositions appeal to consumers on account of their aesthetic nature. They differ from emulsions in that when at rest, the two phases are separate instead of being emulsified one in the other. Thus, the two phases are separated at rest by a single interface, whereas, in emulsions, one of the two phases is dispersed in the other in the form of a multitude of droplets, and the interfaces are therefore multiple, these interfaces generally being stabilized with emulsifying surfactants and/or emulsifying polymers.

Two-phase compositions have already been described, for example in documents EP 0 370 856 and EP 0 603 080, especially for removing eye makeup.

Document EP 0 603 080 describes the use of alkyldimethylbenzylammonium and especially of benzalkonium chloride as a phase-separation agent, for obtaining rapid phase separation.

Document EP 1 514 534 also describes a two-phase composition, containing sodium bicarbonate as phase-separation agent.

WO 2014/207259A2 discloses a two-phase composition for topical application comprising magnesium acetate.

The use of two-phase compositions necessitates prior shaking in order to form an emulsion. All of the two-phase compositions mentioned above are characterized by rapid phase separation (or demixing) of the two phases.

That is to say, the two-phase compositions mentioned above emulsify readily by shaking and undergo rapid phase separation after the shaking is stopped. Sometimes the two phases separate before the consumers finish using them, which is not desirable. In addition, after the two phases separate, the interface between them is not clear or sharp.

There is thus still a need for a two-phase composition consisting of two separate immiscible phases, which will form a stable and uniform emulsion for longer time after being shaked and will have clear interface after the two phases separate.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

One object of the present invention is thus to provide a two-phase composition for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing make-up products from keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, which will form a stable and uniform emulsion for longer time after being shaked and will have clear interface after the two phases separate.

Another object of the present invention is to a two-phase composition for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing make-up products from keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, in particular which can deliver a clean and comfort skin finish after use and/or without any discomfort even around eye area and/or can be rinsed off easily by water or wiped off by cotton pad with less residual on the keratin materials.

Yet another object of the present invention is to provide a process for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing make-up products from keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes.

Thus, according to one aspect of the present invention, provided is a two-phase composition for topical application consisting of an aqueous phase and an oil phase which are separate, comprising at least one polysaccharide as hydrophilic gelling agent and at least one polycondensate of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide having the formula (I) below:

H- (O-CH ₂CH ₂) _x- (O-CH (CH ₃) -CH ₂) _y- (O-CH ₂CH ₂) _z-OH (I)

in which x and z range from 2 to 150 and y ranges from 1 to 100.

According to another aspect of the present invention, provided is a process for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing make-up products from keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, comprising shaking the two-phase composition as described above to form an emulsion and applying the emulsion to the keratin materials.

Surprisingly, the inventors have found that the use of specific polysaccharide makes it possible to obtain a two-phase composition which can form a stable and uniform emulsion for longer time after being shaked, and the use of polycondensate of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide makes it possible to obtain a two-phase composition which will have clear interface after the aqueous phase and the oil phase separate.

Meanwhile, the inventors have also found that the two-phase composition according to the present invention can deliver a clean and comfort skin finish after use and without any discomfort even around eye area and can be rinsed off easily by water or wiped off by cotton pad with less residual on the keratin materials.

Other advantages of the present invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The two-phase composition for topical application according to the present invention is consisted of an aqueous phase and an oil phase which are separate and comprises at least one polysaccharide as hydrophilic gelling agent and at least one polycondensate of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide having the formula (I) below:

H- (O-CH ₂CH ₂) _x- (O-CH (CH ₃) -CH ₂) _y- (O-CH ₂CH ₂) _z-OH (I)

in which x and z range from 2 to 150 and y ranges from 1 to 100.

By "an aqueous phase and an oil phase which are separate" , it means that the aqueous phase and the oil phase are visible one on top of the other before shaking. The two phases may or may not be coloured.

The two-phase composition can be used to care for and/or make up keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes after being shaked to form a stable and uniform emulsion for longer time, for example above 100s, preferably above 120s, even more preferably above 150s, and the two-phase composition will have clear interface after after the aqueous phase and the oil phase separate.

By “skin” , it means all the body skin, including the face, the lips and the eyes.

The term "stable" means stable at room temperature (25℃) for at least 1 month, preferably for at least 2 months.

Aqueous phase

According to the present invention, the two-phase composition comprises an aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase comprises water.

The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, camomile water or lime blossom water, and/or a natural spring water or mineral water, for instance: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-bains water and Avene water. The aqueous phase may also comprise reconstituted spring water, i.e. a water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a spring water.

The aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature: 25℃) , for instance monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups, especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di-or tripropylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ethers, mono-, di-or triethylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.

The aqueous phase of the composition of the present invention preferably comprises water and an alcohol chosen monoalcohol, for example ethanol or isopropanol; and polyols, for example, preferably butylene glycol, glycerin, or propylene glycol.

Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises water, ethanol and glycerin.

The monoalcohol may be present in an amount that is, for example, less than or equal to 10%by weight and preferably ranging from 0.1%to 10%, more preferably ranging from 3%to 8%by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

Preferably, the polyols, if present, may be present in the aqueous phase according to the present invention in a amount of less than or equal to 30%, preferably ranging from 5-20%by weight, more preferably from 10-15%by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

The content of the aqueous phase is adjusted according to the desired cosmeticity and so that the composition has a freezing point of less than 4℃.

Preferably, the two-phase composition according to the present invention may comprise an aqueous phase in an amount ranging from 10%to 99%by weight, preferably from 20%to 95%by weight, preferably from 25%to 90%by weight, even more preferably from 40%to 90%by weight and better still from 50%to 88%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.

Oil phase

According to the present invention, the two-phase composition comprises an oil phase. The oil phase comprises at least one oil.

The term “oil” refers to any fatty body in liquid form at room temperature (20-25℃) and atmospheric pressure. These oils may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.

The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

The term "volatile oil" refers to any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or lips, in less than one hour, at room temperature (20-25℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .

More specifically, the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200mg/cm ²/min, inclusive.

The term "non-volatile oil" is intended to mean an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly below 0.01 mg/cm ²/min.

To measure this evaporation rate, 15g of oil or a mixture of oils to be tested are introduced into a crystallizer, 7cm in diameter, placed on a scale located in a large 0.3m ³ chamber temperature-controlled at a temperature of 25℃, and humidity-controlled with a relative humidity of 50%. The liquid is left to evaporate freely, without stirring, by providing ventilation with a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) positioned vertically above the crystallizer containing the solvent, with the blades directed toward the crystallizer and at a distance of 20cm from the base of the crystallizer. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of oil evaporated per surface area unit (cm ²) and per time unit (minute) .

The oils that are suitable for the present invention may be hydrocarbon-based oil, silicone-based oil or fluorine-based oil.

According to the present invention, the term "silicone oil" refers to an oil including at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least on Si-O group.

The term "fluorine oil" refers to an oil including at least one fluorine atom.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

More preferably, the composition of the present invention comprises hydrocarbon oil (s) .

Specifically, the volatile oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C ₈-C ₁₆ alkanes (also called isoparaffins or isoalkanes) , such as isododecane (also called 2, 2, 4, 4, 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names

or

It is also possible to cite, as a hydrocarbon volatile oil, linear C ₉-C ₁₇ alkanes, such as dodecane (C ₁₂) and tetradecane (C ₁₄) , sold respectively under the names

12-97 and

14-97 (Sasol) , and, as alkanes obtained according to the method described in the international application WO 2007/068371 A1,such as the undecane (C ₁₁) and tridecane (C ₁₃) mixture sold under the name

UT(Cognis) .

The non-volatile oils may, in particular, be chosen from among the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils.

It is possible to cite, as a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil:

-hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene,

-hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters, for instance phytostearyl oleate, phytostearyl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytostearyl glutamate (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203) , diesters such as diisopropyl sebacate, triglycerides constituted of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular in which the fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C ₄ to C ₃₆, and in particular from C ₁₈ to C ₃₆, it being possible for these oils to be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils may in particular be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach kernel oil, groundnut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, barrage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cotton seed oil, coconut oil, marrow seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St. John's Wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, nut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, pumpkin oil, winter squash oil, quinoa oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soya oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the StEarineries Dubois company or those sold under the names Miglyol

and

by the Dynamit Nobel company,

-linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane;

-ethers oils having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms.

According to the present invention, the term “ether oil” means oil that is liquid at room temperature (25℃) comprising at least one ether functional group.

Particularly, according to the present invention, the ether oil is a dialkyl ether oil chosen from di-n-hexyl ether, di-n-heptyl ether, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-isodecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, di-n-eteradecyl ether, di-n-hexadecyl ether, di-n-oxtadecyl ether, or a mixture thereof.

The dialkyl ethers that may be used according to the present invention may be soluble or insoluble in the compositions, but are preferably insoluble.

These compounds may be prepared according to the process described in patent application DE 41 27 230.

Most preferably, a di-n-octyl ether (INCI name: dicaprylyl ether) that may be used in the context of the present invention. Such product is commercially available, for example those sold under the name

OE by the company Cognis (BASF) , or

OE by the company Ecogreen Oleochemicals;

-synthetic esters, for instance oils of formula R ₁COOR ₂, in which R ₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R ₁ or R ₂ is greater than or equal to 10. The esters may in particular be selected from esters of fatty acid and of alcohol, for instance: cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactacte, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate and palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol 2-diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C ₁₂-C ₁₅ alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, for instance isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, or octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters, for instance isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate and octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate;

-polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for instance dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate,

-esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers, such as Lusplan

and Lusplan

sold by the nippon fine chemical company and described in the application US 2004-175338,

-copolymers of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer and esters thereof, such as copolymers of dilinoleyl diol dimers/dilinoleic dimers and esters thereof, for instance Plandool-G,

-copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA, or the copolymer of dilinoleic acid/butanediol,

-fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol,

-C ₁₂-C ₂₂, higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, and,

-oils of higher molar mass having in particular a molar mass ranging from approximately 400 to approximately 10,000 g/mol, in particular from approximately 650 to approximately 10,000 g/mol, in particular from approximately 750 to approximately 7500 g/mol, and more particularly ranging from approximately 1000 to approximately 5000 g/mol. As oils of higher molar mass that can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of the oils selected from:

·lipophilic polymers,

·linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70,

·hydroxylated esters,

·aromatic esters,

·esters of C ₂₄-C ₂₈ branched fatty acids or fatty alcohols,

·oils of plant origin,

·and mixtures thereof; and

·mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the oil phase comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based oil. More preferably the hydrocarbon-based oil is chosn from branched C ₈-C ₁₆ alkanes, for instance isododecane (also known as 2, 2, 4, 4, 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane, and isohexadecane.

More particularly, the hydrocarbon-based oil (s) is present in amount of from 20%to 95%by weight, preferably from 50%to 90%by weight, more preferably from 70%to 90%by weight, relative to the total weight of the oil phase.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based oil (s) constitute the only oil (s) of the oil phase, or are present in a predominant weight content relative to the additional oil (s) that may be present in the oil phase.

The two-phase composition according to the present invention may comprise an oil phase in an amount ranging from 1%to 90%by weight, preferably from 5%to 80%by weight, preferably from 10%to 75%by weight and even more preferably from 10%to 60%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.

The weight ratio between the oil phase and the aqueous phase in the two-phase composition ranges from 1: 99 to 80: 20, better from 5: 95 to 50: 50, even better from 10: 90 to 40: 60.

In an embodiment, the two-phase composition is a two-phase making-up remover for full face, wherein the weight ratio between the oil phase and the aqueous phase in the two-phase composition is 10: 90.

In another embodiment, the two-phase composition is a two-phase making-up remover for eye, wherein the weight ratio between the oil phase and the aqueous phase in the two-phase composition is 40: 60.

Hydrophilic gelling agents

According to the present invention, the aqueous phase contains at least one polysaccharide as hydrophilic gelling agent.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic gelling agent" means a compound that is capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the two-phase compositions according to the present invention.

As a general rule, the polysaccharides according to the present invention may be chosen from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae and polysaccharides from upper plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, particularly celluloses and derivatives thereof and fructosans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arabic, galactomannans, glucomannans, pectins, and derivatives thereof.

In particular, the polysaccharides may be chosen from fructans, gellans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, celluloses and derivatives thereof, particularly methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, compounds based on alginate, chitin, chitosans, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabic, Tragacanth gums, Ghatti gums, Karaya gums, carob gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and non-ionic derivatives, particularly hydroxypropyl guar, and ionic derivatives thereof, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, particularly scleroglucan or xanthan gums, mucopolysaccharides, and particularly chondroitin sulfates and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the two-phase composition according to the present invention comprises at least one polysaccharide chosen from carrageenans, particularly kappa-carrageenan, gellan gum, agar-agar, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, particularly sodium alginate, sceroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin, pullulan, cellulose gum and mixtures thereof as hydrophilic gelling agent.

These polysaccharides may be chemically modified, particularly by urea, urethane groups, or by means of a hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfation, phosphation, amination, amidation, alkylation reaction, or by a plurality of these modifications.

The derivatives obtained may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

According to one particular embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is a polysaccharide chosen from carrageenans, particularly kappa-carrageenan, gellan gum, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, particularly sodium alginate, sceroglucan gum, guar gum, cellulose gum and mixtures thereof.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is xanthan gum.

Xanthan gum has a molecular weight between 1,000,000 g/mol and 50,000,000 g/mol and a viscosity between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa. s for an aqueous composition containing 1%xanthan gum (measured at 25℃ with a Brookfield LVT viscometer at 60 rpm) .

Xanthan gum is represented for example by the products sold under the names Rhodicare by RHODIA CHIMIE, under the name SATIAXANE ^TM by Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry) , under the name NOVAXAN ^TM by ADM, and under the names

and

by CP-Kelco.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is gellan gum.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is a mixture of gellan gum and xanthan gum.

Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent may present in an amount of from 0.01%to 1%by weight, preferably from 0.02%to 0.5%by weight, more preferably 0.02%to 0.1%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition accroding to the preesnt invention.

Polycondensate of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide

The composition according to the present invention comprises at least one polycondensate of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide having the formula (I) below: H- (O-CH ₂CH ₂) _x- (O-CH (CH ₃) -CH ₂) _y- (O-CH ₂CH ₂) _z-OH (I)

in which x and z range from 2 to 150 and y ranges from 1 to 100.

The polycondensate of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide that is useful in the composition of the present invention preferably has a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 1500 to 8000, better still ranging from 1500 to 6000, in particular ranging from 2000 to 4000 and even better still ranging from 2000 to 3000.

Preferably, in formula (I) above, x and z range from 5 to 150 and y ranges from 10 to 100.

Preferably, in formula (I) above, x and z range from 8 to 50 and y ranges from 20 to 60.

Preferably, in formula (I) above, x and z range from 10 to 20 and y ranges from 25 to 40.

According to one particular embodiment, x and z are identical.

Advantageously, the polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide has a cloud point, at 10 g/l in distilled water, of greater than or equal to 20℃ and preferably of greater than or equal to 60℃. The cloud point is measured according to standard ISO 1065.

As polycondensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide that may be used according to the present invention, mention may be made of the polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates sold under the name Synperonic, for instance

PE/F32 (INCI name: Poloxamer 108) , Poloxamer 335,

PE/L44 (INCI name: Poloxamer 124) ,

PE/L42 (INCI name: Poloxamer 122) ,

PE/L64 (INCI name: Poloxamer 184) ,

PE/L62 (INCI name: Poloxamer 182) ,

PE/F87 (INCI name: Poloxamer 237) from the company Croda.

Preferably,

PE/F32 (INCI name: Poloxamer 108) ,

PE/F87 (INCI name: Poloxamer 237) , Poloxamer 335,

PE/L44 (INCI name: Poloxamer 124) ,

PE/L64 (INCI name: Poloxamer 184) ,

PE/L62 (INCI name: Poloxamer 182) or a mixture thereof are used in the two-phase composition according to the present invention.

Even more preferably,

PE/F32 (INCI name: Poloxamer 108) ,

PE/L44 (INCI name: Poloxamer 124 with a weight-average molecular weight of 2000) ,

PE/L64 (INCI name: Poloxamer 184 with a weight-average molecular weight of 3000) ,

PE/L62 (INCI name: Poloxamer 182, which is triblock copolymer of ethylene oxide/propylene oxide/ethylene oxide (13 EO/30 PO/13 EO) with a weight-average molecular weight of 2250) or a mixture thereof are used in the two-phase composition according to the present invention.

The polycondensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide are preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.001%to 1%by weight, more particularly from 0.005%to 0.5%by weight and even more particularly from 0.01%to 0.1%by weight relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition according to the present invention.

Cosmetic active agent (s)

Depend on the final purpose, the two-phase composition can comprises a cosmetic active agent (s) in one or other phase depending on their hydrophilic or lipophilic nature.

As cosmetic active agents that may be used in the two-phase composition of the present invention, especially when it is a skincare composition, examples that may be mentioned include anti-inflammatory agents; depigmenting agents; antibacterial active agents; tensioning agents; essential oils; UV-screening agents (or sunscreens) , and mixtures thereof; and any active agent that is suitable for the final purpose of the composition.

The UV-screening agents may be present in the composition according to the present invention especially when it is intended for antisun protection.

These screening agents may especially be organic screening agents, and they may be present in an active-material amount ranging from 0.01%to 20%by weight of active material, preferably from 0.1%to 15%by weight and better still 0.2%to 10%by weight relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.

As examples of UV-A-active and/or UV-B-active organic screening agents, which may be added to the composition of the present invention, examples that may be mentioned include derivatives bearing a sulfonic function, such as sulfone or sulfonate derivatives of benzylidenecamphor, benzophenone or phenylbenzimidazole, more particularly benzylidenecamphor derivatives, for instance benzene-1, 4-bis (3-methylidenecamphor-10-sulfonic acid) , (INCI name: Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid) manufactured under the name Mexoryl SX by the company Chimex, and 4'-sulfo-3-benzylidenecamphor (INCI name: Benzylidenecamphorsulfonic acid) manufactured under the name Mexoryl SL by the company Chimex, 2- [4- (camphormethylidene) phenyl] benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid (INCI name: Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid) , sold under the name Eusolex 232 by the company Merck; para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives; salicylic derivatives such as ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan OS by Haarmann and Reimer; dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane sold especially under the trade name Parsol 1789 by the company Hoffmann LaRoche; cinnamic derivatives such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, sold especially under the trade name Parsol MCX by Hoffmann LaRoche; β, β’-diphenylacrylate derivatives such as octocrylene (2-ethylhexyl α-cyano-β, β-diphenylacrylate) sold under the trade name Uvinul N539 by the company BASF; benzophenone derivatives such as benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name Uvinul 400 by BASF, benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name Uvinul D50 by BASF, benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, sold under the trade name Uvinul M40 by BASF, benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name Uvinul MS40 by BASF; benzylidenecamphor derivatives such as 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor sold under the trade name Eusolex 6300 by Merck; phenylbenzimidazole derivatives such as benzimidazilate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP by Haarmann and Reimer; triazine derivatives such as anisotriazine sold under the trade name Tinosorb S by Ciba Geigy and ethylhexyl triazone sold especially under the trade name Uvinul T150 by BASF; phenylbenzotriazole derivatives such as drometrizole trisiloxane sold under the trade name Silatrizole by Rhodia Chimie; anthranilic derivatives such as menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA by Haarmann and Reimer; imidazoline derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

It is easy for the skilled in art to adjust the amount of the cosmetic active agent based on the final use of the two-phase composition.

Adjuvants or additives

The two-phase composition according to the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, which will be in one or other phase depending on their hydrophilic or lipophilic nature, for instance fragrances, preserving agents and bactericides, opacifiers, dyes and colorants, softeners, electrolytes such as sodium chloride, or pH regulators, and mixtures thereof.

Preserving agents that may be used include any preserving agent usually used in the fields under consideration, for instance parabens, chlorphenesin, hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol, chlorhexidine gluconate and polyhexamethylene biguanide hydrochloride (CTFA name: Polyaminopropyl biguanide) .

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the two-phase composition contains hydroxyacetophenone as preserving agent in the aqueous phase.

The preserving agent, when presents in the two-phase composition, generally represent from 0.1%to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 2%by weight and better still from 0.3%to 1%by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the two-phase composition comprises at least one pH regulator.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pH regulator" means any additive for regulating the pH value of the composition into which it is added.

The pH regulator (s) may be chosen from, for example citric acid, sodium hydroxide, aminoalcohols such as ethanolamine and triethanolamine, amino sugars, amino acids, and their alkali salts.

In an preferred embodiment of the present invention, the two-phase composition comprises triethanolamine as pH regulator.

Needless to say, the skilled in the art will take care to select the optional adjuvant (s) added to the composition according to the present invention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the two-phase composition for topical application consisting of an aqueous phase and an oil phase which are separate according to the present invention comprises:

from 0.02%to 0.1%by weight of at least one polysaccharide chosen form carrageenans, particularly kappa-carrageenan, gellan gum, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, particularly sodium alginate, sceroglucan gum, guar gum, cellulose gum and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition; and

from 0.01%to 0.1%by weight of at least one polycondensate of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide chosen from polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensate having the formula (I) below:

H- (O-CH ₂CH ₂) _x- (O-CH (CH ₃) -CH ₂) _y- (O-CH ₂CH ₂) _z-OH (I)

in which x and z range from 2 to 150 and y ranges from 1 to 100.

The two-phase compositions described above may be conditioned, in a known manner, in a bottle with a single compartment. The user may then shake the bottle before pouring its contents onto a pad of cotton wool.

Method and use

The two-phase composition according to the present invention may be used for any topical application. In particular, the two-phase composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing make-up products from keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes. More particularily, the two-phase composition according to the present invention are used to remove make-up products from the full face and/or the eyes.

Thus, the present invention also relates to a process for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing make-up products from keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, comprising shaking the two-phase composition as described above to form an emulsion and applying the emulsion to the keratin materials.

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.

Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired purpose as required.

The term “and/or” used herein refers to one or all of the elements mentioned.

The terms "between" and "ranging from" used herein should be understood as including the limits.

The terms “containing” and “comprising” used herein respectively cover both the case that only the elements mentioned present and the case that other unmentioned elements in addition to the elements mentioned present.

All percentages in the present invention refer to weight percentage, unless otherwise specified.

The examples that follow are aimed at illustrating the compositions, but are not in any way a limitation of the scope of the present invention. The names of the compounds are given as the chemical names or the INCI names.

EXAMPLES

Examples 1-11:

The following compositions are prepared.

Firstly, an oil phase with the following formula is prepared (the amounts of each component are expressed in weight by part, unless otherwise indicated) :

INCI Name	amount
ISOHEXADECANE	99.99
GREEN6	0.01

Procedure: cold mixing of the ingredients of oil phase.

Then, different aqueous phases with the following formula are prepared (the amounts of each component are expressed in weight by part, unless otherwise indicated) :

The weight-average molecular weight of poloxamer 182, poloxamer 124, poloxamer 184, poloxamer 188 and poloxamer 338 are 2250, 2000, 3000, 9000 and 16500, respectively.

Examples 1, 3, 4, 7, 8 and 11 are out of the present invention.

40 parts by weight of aqueous phase and 60 parts by weight of oil phase for each example are combined to obtain the compositions of examples 1-3.

The separation time for each composition is tested after shaking is stopped and the interface aspect between the aqueous phase and the oil phase are observed after separation for 3 minutes, the results are summarized in the following table.

	Separation time	Interface Aspect
Example 1	45s	clear
Example 2	150s	clear
Example 3	N/A	Not clear, bubble in oil phase
Example 4	55s	clear
Example 5	140s	clear
Example 6	160s	clear
Example 7	N/A	Not clear
Example 8	N/A	Not clear
Example 9	100s	Clear
Example 10	120s	Clear
Example 11	N/A	Turbid

It can be seen from above table that the composition according to the present invention has much longer separation time and meanwhile the interface is clear after the aqueous phase and the oil phase separate.

It can be also seen that the compositions comprising poloxamer 188 (example 7) , poloxamer 338 (example 8) or acrylate polymer (example 11) do not have clear interface after the aqueous phase and the oil phase separate. The compositions without a polysaccharide as hydrophilic gelling agent will have a shorter separation time.

Upon the two-phase compositions of Examples 1, 3, 4, 7, 8 and 11 were applied to the skin around eyes, it was found that the two-phase composition according to the present invention can deliver a clean and comfort skin finish without any discomfort around eye area and can be rinsed off easily by water or wiped off by cotton pad with less residual on the skin.

While illustrative examples of the present invention have been described above, it is, of course, understood that many and various modifications will be apparent to those of ordinary skill in the relevant art, or may become apparent as the art develops, in the light of the foregoing description. Such modifications are contemplated as being within the spirit and scope of the invention or inventions disclosed in this specification.

Claims

Two-phase composition for topical application consisting of an aqueous phase and an oil phase which are separate, comprsing at least one polysaccharide as hydrophilic gelling agent and at least one polycondensate of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide having the formula (I) below:

H- (O-CH ₂CH ₂) _x- (O-CH (CH ₃) -CH ₂) _y- (O-CH ₂CH ₂) _z-OH (I)

in which x and z ranges from 2 to 150 and y ranges from 1 to 100.
Two-phase composition according to claim 1, wherein the polysaccharide is chosen from carrageenans, particularly kappa-carrageenan, gellan gum, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, particularly sodium alginate, sceroglucan gum, guar gum, cellulose gum and mixtures thereof.
Two-phase composition according to claim 1, wherein the polysaccharide is chosen from carrageenans, xanthan gum, cellulose gum and mixtures thereof.
Two-phase composition according to any of claims 1-3, wherein in formula (I) , x and z range from 5 to 150 and y ranges from 10 to 100.
Two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1-3, wherein in the formula (I) , x and z range from 8 to 50 and y ranges from 20 to 60.
Two-phase composition according to any of claims 1-3, wherein in the formula (I) , x and z range from 10-20 and y ranges from 25-40.
Two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1-6, wherein the polycondensate of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide is such that x and z are identical.
Two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1-7, wherein the weight-average molecular weight of the polycondensate of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide is no more than 8000, preferably ranges from 1500-8000, more preferably ranges from 1500-6000, more preferably ranges from 2000-4000, and most preferably ranges from 2000-3000.
Two-phase composition according to any one of Claims 1-8, wherein the oil phase comprises at lest one oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone-based oils or fluorine-based oils, preferably chosen from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C ₈-C ₁₆ alkanes.
Two-phase composition according to any one of Claims 1-9, further comprising in the aqueous phase and/or the oil phase a cosmetic active agent chosen from anti-inflammatory agents; depigmenting agents; antibacterial active agents; tensioning agents; essential oils; UV-screening agents, and mixtures thereof.
Two-phase composition according to any one of Claims 1-10, further comprising in the aqueous phase and/or the oil phase a conventional cosmetic adjuvant or additive chosen from fragrances, preserving agents and bactericides, opacifiers, dyes and colorants, softeners, electrolytes, or pH regulators, and mixtures thereof.
Two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1-11, wherein the amount of polycondensate of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide ranges from 0.001%to 1%by weight and more particularly from 0.005%to 0.5%by weight and even more particularly from 0.01%to 0.1%by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
Two-phase composition according to any one of Claims 1-12, wherein the polysaccharide presents in an amount of from 0.01%to 1%by weight, preferably from 0.02%to 0.5%by weight, more preferably 0.02%to 0.1%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
Two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1-13, wherein the aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 10%to 99%by weight, preferably from 20%to 95%by weight, preferably from 25%to 90%by weight, even more preferably from 40%to 90%by weight and better still from 50%to 88%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
Two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1-14, wherein the oil phase is present in an amount ranging from 1%to 90%by weight, preferably from 5%to 80%by weight, preferably from 10%to 75%by weight and even more preferably from 10%to 60%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
Two-phase composition for topical application consisting of an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate, comprising

from 0.02%to 0.1%by weight of at least one polysaccharide chosen form carrageenans, particularly kappa-carrageenan, gellan gum, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, particularly sodium alginate, sceroglucan gum, guar gum, cellulose gum and mixtures thereof, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition; and

from 0.01%to 0.1%by weight of at least one polycondensate of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide chosen from polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensate.
A process for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing make-up products from keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, comprising shaking the two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1-16 to form an emulsion and applying the emulsion to the keratin materials.