CN112292112A - Two-phase composition for topical application - Google Patents
Two-phase composition for topical application Download PDFInfo
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- CN112292112A CN112292112A CN201880095061.7A CN201880095061A CN112292112A CN 112292112 A CN112292112 A CN 112292112A CN 201880095061 A CN201880095061 A CN 201880095061A CN 112292112 A CN112292112 A CN 112292112A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/06—Emulsions
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8147—Homopolymers or copolymers of acids; Metal or ammonium salts thereof, e.g. crotonic acid, (meth)acrylic acid; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/86—Polyethers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/005—Preparations for sensitive skin
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Abstract
Two-phase compositions for topical application comprise separate aqueous and oily phases, at least one polysaccharide as hydrophilic gelling agent and at least one polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide having the following formula (I): h- (O-CH)2CH2)x‑(O‑CH(CH3)‑CH2)y‑(O‑CH2CH2)z-oh (i), wherein x and z are in the range of 2-150 and y is in the range of 1-100.
Description
Technical Field
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing cosmetic products from keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes. In particular, the present invention relates to a two-phase composition for topical application. The invention also relates to a method for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing a cosmetic product from keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes.
Background
Compositions consisting of two separate phases, in particular an aqueous phase and an oil phase which are separate and do not emulsify together at rest, are generally referred to as "two-phase compositions". Two-phase compositions are appealing to consumers due to their aesthetic properties. They differ from emulsions in that at rest, two phases separate rather than one emulsifying in the other. Thus, the two phases are separated by a single interface at rest, however, in an emulsion, one of the two phases is dispersed in the other in the form of a plurality of droplets and thus the interface is multiple, these interfaces being usually stabilized by means of emulsifying surfactants and/or emulsifying polymers.
Two-phase compositions have been described, for example, in documents EP 0370856 and EP 0603080, in particular for removing make-up from the eyes.
Document EP 0603080 describes the use of alkyldimethylbenzyl ammonium and in particular benzalkonium chloride as a phase-separating agent for obtaining rapid phase separation.
Document EP 1514534 also describes a two-phase composition containing sodium bicarbonate as phase separating agent.
WO 2014/207259a2 discloses a two-phase composition for topical application comprising magnesium acetate.
The use of a two-phase composition requires prior shaking in order to form the emulsion. All of the above mentioned two-phase compositions are characterized by a rapid phase separation (or demixing) of the two phases.
That is, the above-mentioned two-phase composition is easily emulsified by shaking and undergoes rapid phase separation after the shaking is stopped. Sometimes the two phases separate before the consumer has finished using them, which is undesirable. In addition, after the two phases separate, the interface between them is not clear or distinct.
Thus, there remains a need for a two-phase composition consisting of two separate immiscible phases which, after shaking, will form a stable and homogeneous emulsion for a longer period of time and which has a clear interface after the two phases have separated.
Disclosure of Invention
It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide a two-phase composition for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing cosmetic products from keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, which composition, after shaking, will form a stable and homogeneous emulsion for a longer period of time and will have a clear interface after separation of the two phases.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a two-phase composition for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing a cosmetic product from keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, which composition in particular can give a clean and pleasant skin appearance (skin finish) after use and/or does not have any discomfort even around the ocular region and/or can be easily rinsed off with water or rubbed off by a cotton pad with less residue on the keratin materials.
Yet another object of the present invention is to provide a method for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing a cosmetic product from keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes.
Thus, according to one aspect of the present invention, provided is a two-phase composition for topical application consisting of separate aqueous and oily phases, comprising, as hydrophilic gelling agent, at least one polysaccharide and at least one polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide having formula (I):
H-(O-CH2CH2)x-(O-CH(CH3)-CH2)y-(O-CH2CH2)z-OH (I)
wherein x and z are in the range of 2-150 and y is in the range of 1-100.
According to another aspect of the present invention, provided is a method for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing a cosmetic product from a keratin material, such as the skin, in particular the face, lips and/or eyes, comprising shaking a two-phase composition as described above to form an emulsion, and applying the emulsion to the keratin material.
Surprisingly, the inventors have found that the use of a specific polysaccharide makes it possible to obtain a two-phase composition which, after shaking, can form a stable and homogeneous emulsion for a longer period of time, and that the use of a polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide makes it possible to obtain a two-phase composition which, after separation of the aqueous and oily phases, will have a clear interface.
At the same time, the inventors have also found that the two-phase composition according to the invention can give a clean and pleasant skin appearance after use, without any discomfort even around the ocular region, and can be easily rinsed off with water or wiped off with a cotton pad with less residue on the keratin material.
Other advantages of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and the examples below.
Detailed Description
The two-phase composition for topical application according to the invention consists of a separate aqueous phase and an oily phase and comprises, as hydrophilic gelling agent, at least one polysaccharide and at least one polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide having the following formula (I):
H-(O-CH2CH2)x-(O-CH(CH3)-CH2)y-(O-CH2CH2)z-OH (I)
wherein x and z are in the range of 2-150 and y is in the range of 1-100.
By "separated aqueous and oil phases" is meant that the aqueous and oil phases are seen one above the other before shaking. The two phases may or may not be colored.
After shaking to form a stable and homogeneous emulsion for a longer period of time (e.g. more than 100s, preferably more than 120s, even more preferably more than 150 s), the two-phase composition can be used to care for and/or make up keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, and the two-phase composition will have a clear interface after separation of the aqueous and oily phases.
By "skin" is meant all body skin, including the face, lips, and eyes.
The term "stable" means stable at room temperature (25 ℃) for at least one month, preferably at least two months.
Aqueous phase
According to the invention, the two-phase composition comprises an aqueous phase.
The aqueous phase comprises water.
The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or floral water, such as rose water, cornflower water, chamomile water or basswood (lime blossom) water; and/or natural spring or mineral water, such as Vittel water, Vicia basin water, fountain (Uriae) water, Lifuge (Roche Posay) water, Bourboule water, lake Anshenh-les-Bains water, Saint-Gervais-les-Bains water, Neris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizi res water, Neyr-les-Bains water, los-uneer water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christus water, Fumades water, Terris-les-Bains water, and Avene water. The aqueous phase may also comprise reconstituted (reclaimed) spring water, i.e. water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium etc. characteristic of reconstituted spring water.
The aqueous phase may also comprise a water-miscible organic solvent (at room temperature: 25 ℃), for example a monohydric alcohol containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, for example ethanol or isopropanol; polyols comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups, in particular containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (containing in particular 3 to 16 carbon atoms), e.g. monopropylene glycol (C)1-C4) Alkyl ether, dipropylene glycol (C)1-C4) Alkyl ethers or tripropylene glycol (C)1-C4) Alkyl ethers, monoethylene glycol (C)1-C4) Alkyl ethers, diethylene glycol (C)1-C4) Alkyl ethers or triethylene glycols (C)1-C4) An alkyl ether; and mixtures thereof.
The aqueous phase of the composition of the invention preferably comprises water and an alcohol selected from: monohydric alcohols, such as ethanol or isopropanol; and polyhydric alcohols, such as preferably butylene glycol, glycerol or propylene glycol.
Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises water, ethanol and glycerol.
The monohydric alcohol may be present, for example, in an amount less than or equal to 10% by weight and preferably in the range of from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably in the range of from 3% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
Preferably, the polyol, if present, may be present in the aqueous phase according to the invention in an amount less than or equal to 30%, preferably in the range from 5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
The content of the aqueous phase is adjusted according to the desired cosmetic properties so that the freezing point of the composition is below 4 ℃.
Preferably, the two-phase composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase in an amount ranging from 10% to 99% by weight, preferably from 20% to 95% by weight, preferably from 25% to 90% by weight, even more preferably from 40% to 90% by weight and still better from 50% to 88% by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
Oil phase
According to the invention, the two-phase composition comprises an oil phase. The oil phase comprises at least one oil.
The term "oil" refers to any fat body that is in liquid form at room temperature (20-25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure. These oils may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.
The oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
The term "volatile oil" refers to any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or lips in less than 1 hour at room temperature (20-25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
More specifically, the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature. More specifically, the volatile oil has a viscosity of between 0.01mg/cm2Min and 200mg/cm2An evaporation rate between/min (inclusive).
The term "non-volatile oil" is intended to mean an oil that remains on the skin or keratin fibres at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
More particularly, the non-volatile oil has a viscosity strictly lower than 0.01mg/cm2Evaporation rate/min.
To measure this evaporation rate, 15g of the oil or oil mixture to be tested are introduced into a crystallization dish with a diameter of 7cm, which is placed at 0.3m at a controlled temperature (at a temperature of 25 ℃) and a controlled humidity (with a relative humidity of 50%)3Balance in large chamber. The liquid was allowed to evaporate freely without stirring by: ventilation was provided by a vertically positioned fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550N, spinning at 2700 rpm) located above the crystallization dish containing the solvent, with the fan blade facing the dish and being 20cm from the bottom of the dish. The quality of the oil remaining in the crystallization dish was measured at regular time intervals. Evaporation rate in terms of per unit area (cm)2) And mg of oil evaporated per unit time (min).
Oils suitable for use in the present invention may be hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone-based oils, or fluorine-based oils.
According to the invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular at least one (at least on) Si — O group.
The term "fluoro oil" refers to an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil that contains primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.
The oil may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid groups.
More preferably, the compositions of the present invention comprise hydrocarbon oils.
In particular, the volatile oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched C8-C16Alkanes (also known as isoparaffins or isoalkanes), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4, 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and also, for example, under the trade name Isopars®Or Permethyls®Oil for sale.
As hydrocarbon volatile oils, mention may also be made of linear C9-C17Alkanes, e.g. each under the name PARAFOL®12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97(Sasol) dodecane (C) sold12) And tetradecane (C)14) (ii) a And alkanes obtained as a process according to that described in international application WO 2007/068371A 1, for example under the name CETIOL®Undecane (C) marketed by UT (Cognis)11) And tridecane (C)13) And (3) mixing.
The non-volatile oil may be chosen in particular from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils.
As the nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil, there may be mentioned:
hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;
-hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as phytosterol esters, for example phytosterol oleate, phytosterol isostearate and lauroyl glutamic acid octyldodecanol/phytosterol ester (Ajinomoto, Eldew PS 203); diesters, such as diisopropyl sebacate; triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, in particular wherein the fatty acids may have a structure from C4To C36(and especially from C)18To C36) Chain lengths in the range, these oils may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils may be, inter alia, triglycerides of heptanoic or caprylic acids, shea butter, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach kernel oil, peanut oil, argan oil (argan oil), avocado oil, kapok oil, barrage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam seed oil, john's wort oil, morroni oil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, kiwi oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, black vinegar seed oil, monkey seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio seed oil, melon seed oil, pumpkin seed oil, hazelnut oil, kiwi seed oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, black currant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grape seed, Oil of the winter squash, quinoa, rose musk, sesame, soybean, sunflower, castor and watermelon oils and mixtures thereof, or caprylic/capric triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stearieries Dubois, or by the company Dynamit NobelHe/she is under the name Miglyol 810®、812®And 818®Those that are sold;
linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffin and its derivatives, vaseline, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes, such as Parleam, squalane;
-etheric oils having 10 to 40 carbon atoms.
According to the invention, the term "ether oil" denotes an oil which is liquid at room temperature (25 ℃) comprising at least one ether functional group.
In particular, according to the invention, the ether oil is a dialkyl ether oil selected from: di-n-hexyl ether, di-n-heptyl ether, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, diisodecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, di-n-tetradecyl (eteradecyl) ether, di-n-hexadecyl ether, di-n-octadecyl ether, or mixtures thereof.
The dialkyl ethers that can be used according to the invention are soluble or insoluble in the composition, but preferably insoluble.
These compounds can be prepared according to the process described in patent application DE 4127230.
Most preferably di-n-octyl ether (INCI name: dioctyl ether) can be used in the context of the present invention. Such products are commercially available, for example under the name Cetiol from the company Cognis (BASF)®Those sold by OE, or Rofetan by Ecogreen Oleochogicals®Those sold by OE;
synthetic esters, e.g. of the formula R1COOR2Wherein R is1Represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2Represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular a branched chain, with the proviso that R1Or R2 Greater than or equal to 10. The ester may be chosen in particular from esters of fatty acids and alcohols, such as cetearyl octanoate; isopropyl alcohol esters such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate; ethyl palmitate; 2-ethylhexyl palmitate; isopropyl stearate or isostearyl stearate; isostearyl isostearate; octyl stearate; hydroxylated esters, e.g.Isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate; diisopropyl adipate; heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate; octanoic acid esters or octanoic acid polyols, decanoic acid esters or decanoic acid polyols, or ricinoleic acid esters or ricinoleic acid polyols, such as propylene glycol dicaprylate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate; 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate and 2-ethylhexyl palmitate; alkyl benzoate esters; polyethylene glycol diheptanoate; propylene glycol 2-diethylhexanoate; and mixtures thereof; benzoic acid C12-C15An alkyl ester; hexyl laurate; pivalate esters such as isodecyl pivalate, isotridecyl pivalate, isostearyl pivalate, or octyldodecyl pivalate; isononanoates, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate and octyl isononanoate; hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate;
polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate;
esters of dimer diols and dimer diacids, e.g. Lusplan DD-DA5®And Lusplan DD-DA7®Sold by nippon fine chemical company and described in application US 2004-175338;
copolymers of dimer diols and dimer diacids and esters thereof, for example copolymers of dimer dilinoleyl diol/dimer dilinoleyl diol and esters thereof, for example planchool-G;
copolymers of polyols and dimer diacids and esters thereof, for example copolymers of hailscent ISDA or dilinoleic/butanediol;
fatty alcohols having a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol;
- C12-C22higher fatty acids, such as oleic, linoleic, or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof; and
-a higher molar mass oil, in particular having a molar mass in the range of about 400 to about 10,000 g/mol, in particular about 650 to about 10,000 g/mol, in particular about 750 to about 7500 g/mol and more in particular in the range of about 1000 to about 5000 g/mol. As higher molar mass oils which can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of oils chosen from:
a lipophilic polymer which is a mixture of at least one of,
a linear fatty acid ester having a total carbon number in the range of 35 to 70,
a hydroxylated ester of the type (I) to which,
an aromatic ester of a carboxylic acid or a carboxylic acid,
branched chain C24-C28Esters of fatty acids or of fatty alcohols,
an oil of vegetable origin,
and mixtures thereof; and
mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the oil phase comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based oil. More preferably, the hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from branched C8-C16Alkanes, such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4, 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane.
More particularly, the hydrocarbon-based oil is present in an amount of 20 wt% to 95 wt%, preferably 50 wt% to 90 wt%, more preferably 70 wt% to 90 wt%, relative to the total weight of the oil phase.
Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based oil constitutes the only oil of the oil phase, or is present in a predominant weight content relative to additional oils that may be present in the oil phase.
The two-phase composition according to the invention may comprise an oil phase in an amount ranging from 1% to 90% by weight, preferably from 5% to 80% by weight, preferably from 10% to 75% by weight and even more preferably from 10% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
The weight ratio between the oil phase and the aqueous phase in the two-phase composition is in the range of from 1:99 to 80: 20, more preferably from 5:95 to 50:50, even more preferably from 10:90 to 40: 60.
In one embodiment, the two-phase composition is a two-phase makeup remover for whole face, wherein the weight ratio between the oil phase and the aqueous phase in the two-phase composition is 10: 90.
In another embodiment, the two-phase composition is a two-phase makeup remover for the eye, wherein the weight ratio between the oil phase and the aqueous phase in the two-phase composition is 40: 60.
Hydrophilic gelling agent
According to the invention, the aqueous phase contains at least one polysaccharide as hydrophilic gelling agent.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic gelling agent" denotes a compound capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the two-phase composition according to the invention.
In general, the polysaccharide according to the invention may be selected from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae and from higher plants (upper plants), such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular cellulose and its derivatives and fructans; heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arabic, galactomannan, glucomannan, pectin, and derivatives thereof.
In particular, the polysaccharide may be selected from fructans, gellan gum, dextran, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextran (dextran); cellulose and its derivatives, especially methyl cellulose, hydroxyalkyl cellulose, ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose; mannans, xylans, lignins, arabinans, galactans, polygalacturonic acids, alginate-based compounds, chitin, chitosan, glucuronoxylan, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agar-agar, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabic, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, karaya gum, carob gum; galactomannans, such as guar gum and non-ionic derivatives, especially hydroxypropyl guar and ionic derivatives thereof; a biopolysaccharide gum of microbial origin, in particular scleroglucan or xanthan gum; mucopolysaccharides, and in particular chondroitin sulfate and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, the two-phase composition according to the invention comprises, as hydrophilic gelling agent, at least one polysaccharide chosen from: carrageenans, especially kappa-carrageenan; gellan gum; agar; xanthan gum; alginate-based compounds, especially sodium alginate; scleroglucan gum; guar gum; inulin; pullulan; cellulose gum; and mixtures thereof.
These polysaccharides can be chemically modified, in particular by urea, urethane groups or by hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfation, phosphorylation, amination, amidation, alkylation reactions or by a plurality of these modifications.
The derivatives obtained may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.
According to a particular embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is a polysaccharide selected from: carrageenans, especially kappa-carrageenan; gellan gum; xanthan gum; alginate-based compounds, especially sodium alginate; scleroglucan gum; guar gum; cellulose gum; and mixtures thereof.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is xanthan gum.
Xanthan gum has a molecular weight between 1,000,000 and 50,000,000 g/mol and a viscosity (measured with a Brookfield LVT viscometer at 25 ℃ at 60 rpm) between 0.6 pa.s and 1.65 pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1% xanthan gum.
Xanthan gum is represented by, for example, the following products: products sold under the name Rhodicare by RHODIA CHIMIE, products sold under the name SATIAXANE (for use in the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries) by Cargil texturing Solutions, products sold under the name NOVAXAN (TM) by ADM and products sold under the name Kelzan (TM) by CP-Kelco®And Keltrol®The product for sale.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is gellan gum.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is a mixture of gellan gum and xanthan gum.
Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.02% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition according to the invention.
Polycondensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide having formula (I) below:
H-(O-CH2CH2)x-(O-CH(CH3)-CH2)y-(O-CH2CH2)z-OH (I)
wherein x and z are in the range of 2-150 and y is in the range of 1-100.
The polycondensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide that can be used in the composition according to the invention preferably have a weight-average molecular weight in the range from 1500-.
Preferably, in formula (I) above, x and z are in the range of 5 to 150 and y is in the range of 10 to 100.
Preferably, in formula (I) above, x and z are in the range of 8-50 and y is in the range of 20-60.
Preferably, in formula (I) above, x and z are in the range of 10-20 and y is in the range of 25-40.
According to a particular embodiment, x and z are the same.
Advantageously, the polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide has a cloud point in distilled water of greater than or equal to 20 ℃ and preferably greater than or equal to 60 ℃ at 10 g/l. The cloud point is measured according to standard ISO 1065.
As polycondensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide which may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates from Croda under the name Synperonic sold, for example Synperonic PE/F32(INCI name: poloxamer 108), poloxamer 335, Synperonic PE/L44(INCI name: poloxamer 124), Synperonic PE/L42(INCI name: poloxamer 122), Synperonic PE/L64(INCI name: poloxamer 184), Synperonic PE/L62(INCI name: poloxamer 182), Synperonic PE/F87 (INCI: poloxamer 237).
Preferably, Synperonic PE/F32(INCI name: poloxamer 108), Synperonic PE/F87(INCI name: poloxamer 237), poloxamer 335, Synperonic PE/L44(INCI name: poloxamer 124), Synperonic PE/L64(INCI name: poloxamer 184), Synperonic PE/L62(INCI name: poloxamer 182) or mixtures thereof are used in the two phase composition according to the invention.
Even more preferably, Synperonic PE/F32(INCI name: poloxamer 108), Synperonic PE/L44(INCI name: poloxamer 124, having a weight average molecular weight of 2000), Synperonic PE/L64(INCI name: poloxamer 184, having a weight average molecular weight of 3000), Synperonic PE/L62(INCI name: poloxamer 182, which is an ethylene oxide/propylene oxide/ethylene oxide triblock copolymer (13 EO/30 PO/13 EO), having a weight average molecular weight of 2250) or mixtures thereof are used in the two phase composition according to the invention.
The polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide is preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 1% by weight, more particularly from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight and even more particularly from 0.01% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition according to the invention.
Cosmetic active agent
Depending on the end purpose, the two-phase composition may comprise a cosmetic active agent in one phase or the other, depending on their hydrophilic or lipophilic character.
As cosmetic active agents that can be used in the two-phase composition of the invention (in particular when it is a skin care composition), examples that may be mentioned include anti-inflammatory agents; a depigmenting agent; an antibacterial active agent; a tightening agent; essential oil; UV screening agents (or sunscreens); and mixtures thereof; and any active agent suitable for the ultimate purpose of the composition.
UV screening agents may be present in the composition according to the invention, especially when the composition is intended for sun protection.
These screening agents may in particular be organic screening agents and they may be present in an amount of active substance ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
As examples of UV-A-active organic screening agents and/or UV-B-active organic screening agents which may be added to the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of derivatives carrying a sulfonic acid function, such as sulfone or sulfonate derivatives of benzylidene camphor, benzophenone or phenylbenzimidazole, more particularly benzylidene camphor derivatives, such as benzene-1, 4-bis (3-methylenecamphor-10-sulfonic acid) manufactured by Chimex company under the name Mexoryl SX (INCI name: p-xylylene dicamphor sulfonic acid), and 4' -sulfo-3-benzylidene camphor (INCI name: benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid), 2- [4- (camphormethylene) phenyl-camphor SL manufactured by Chimex company under the name Mexoryl SL]Benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid sold under the name Eusolex 232 by the company Merck (INCI name: phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid); a para-aminobenzoic acid derivative; salicylic acid derivatives, such as ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan OS by Haarmann and Reimer; dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane sold by the company Hoffmann LaRoche, in particular under the trade name Parsol 1789; cinnamic acid derivatives, such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold by Hoffmann LaRoche, particularly under the tradename Parsol MCX;
,
' -Diphenyl acrylate derivatives, e.g. octocrylene sold under the trade name Uvinul N539 by BASF corporation (
-cyano-
,
2-ethylhexyl diphenylacrylate); benzophenone derivatives, for example sold under the trade name Uvinul 400 by BASFBenzophenone-1, benzophenone-2 sold by BASF under the trade name Uvinul D50, benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone sold by BASF under the trade name Uvinul M40, benzophenone-4 sold by BASF under the trade name Uvinul MS 40; benzylidene camphor derivatives such as 4-methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the trade name Eusolex 6300 by Merck; phenylbenzimidazole derivatives, such as the esters of benzimidazole acid sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP by Haarmann and Reimer; triazine derivatives such as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (anisotriazine) sold under the trade name Tinosorb S by Ciba Geigy and ethylhexyl triazone sold under the trade name Uvinul T150 in particular by BASF; phenylbenzotriazole derivatives, such as cresoltrazol trisiloxane sold under the trade name Silatrizole by Rhodia Chimie; anthranilic acid derivatives, such as menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA by Haarmann and Reimer; imidazoline derivatives; a benzylidene malonate derivative; and mixtures thereof.
The amount of cosmetic active agent is readily adjusted by one skilled in the art based on the end use of the two-phase composition.
Auxiliary or additive agents
The two-phase compositions according to the invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, to be in one phase or the other, depending on their hydrophilic or lipophilic nature, such as fragrances, preservatives and bactericides, opacifiers, dyes and colorants, softeners, electrolytes (such as sodium chloride) or pH regulators, and mixtures thereof.
Preservatives which may be used include any of those commonly used in the art under consideration, such as parabens, chlorphenesin, hydroxyacetophenone, phenoxyethanol, chlorhexidine gluconate and polyhexamethylene biguanide hydrochloride (CTFA name: polyaminopropyl biguanide).
According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the biphasic composition contains hydroxyacetophenone as preservative in the aqueous phase.
When present in a two-phase composition, the preservative typically comprises from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 2% by weight and still more preferably from 0.3% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the two-phase composition comprises at least one pH adjusting agent.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pH adjuster" means any additive for adjusting the pH of the composition to which it is added.
The pH adjusting agent may be selected from, for example, citric acid, sodium hydroxide, amino alcohols such as ethanolamine and triethanolamine, amino sugars, amino acids and their alkali metal salts.
In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the two-phase composition comprises triethanolamine as a pH adjusting agent.
Needless to say, the person skilled in the art will take care to select the optional adjuvants to be added to the composition according to the invention such that the advantageous properties inherently associated with the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not negatively affected by the envisaged addition.
According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the two-phase composition for topical application consisting of a separated aqueous phase and an oily phase according to the invention comprises:
0.02% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition, of at least one polysaccharide chosen from: carrageenans, especially kappa-carrageenan; gellan gum; xanthan gum; alginate-based compounds, especially sodium alginate; scleroglucan gum; guar gum; cellulose gum; and mixtures thereof; and
0.01% to 0.1% by weight of at least one polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide chosen from polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates having formula (I) below:
H-(O-CH2CH2)x-(O-CH(CH3)-CH2)y-(O-CH2CH2)z-OH (I)
wherein x and z are in the range of 2-150 and y is in the range of 1-100.
The two-phase composition described above can be conditioned in a known manner in a bottle having a single compartment. The user may then shake the bottle and then pour its contents onto a pad of absorbent cotton.
Method and use
The two-phase composition according to the invention can be used for any topical application. In particular, the two-phase composition according to the invention can be used in a non-therapeutic, for example cosmetic, method of caring for/making up/cleansing/removing a cosmetic product from a keratin material, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes. More particularly, the two-phase composition according to the invention is used for removing a cosmetic product from the whole face and/or eyes.
The invention therefore also relates to a method for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing a cosmetic product from a keratin material, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, comprising shaking a two-phase composition as described above to form an emulsion, and applying the emulsion to the keratin material.
Unless defined otherwise, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention belongs. In the case where the definitions of terms in the present specification conflict with meanings commonly understood by those skilled in the art to which the present invention pertains, the definitions described herein should be applied.
Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and so forth used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term "about". Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximations that can vary depending upon the desired purpose.
The term "and/or" as used herein refers to one or all of the elements referred to.
The terms "between" and "ranging from" as used herein should be understood to include both the upper and lower limits.
The terms "comprising" and "comprises" as used herein each encompass both the presence of only the named element and the presence of other, unrecited elements in addition to the named element.
All percentages in this invention are by weight unless otherwise specified.
The following examples are intended to illustrate the compositions, but not to limit the scope of the invention in any way. The name of a compound is given in the form of a chemical name or INCI name.
Examples
Examples 1 to 11:
the following compositions were prepared.
First, an oil phase having the following formulation was prepared (the amounts of each component are expressed in parts by weight unless otherwise specified):
| INCI name | Measurement of |
| Isohexadecane | 99.99 |
| GREEN 6 | 0.01 |
The procedure is as follows:cold mixing the components of the oil phase.
Then, different aqueous phases were prepared having the following formulation (unless otherwise indicated, the amounts of the components are expressed in parts by weight):
active material content was 30 wt%.
Poloxamer 182, poloxamer 124, poloxamer 184, poloxamer 188 and poloxamer 338 have weight average molecular weights of 2250, 2000, 3000, 9000 and 16500, respectively.
Examples 1, 3, 4, 7, 8 and 11 are outside the present invention.
For each example, 40 parts by weight of the aqueous phase was combined with 60 parts by weight of the oil to obtain the compositions of examples 1-3.
The separation time of each composition was tested after shaking was stopped and the interfacial morphology between the water and oil phases was observed after 3 minutes of separation, and the results are summarized in the table below.
| Time of separation | Interface morphology | |
| Example 1 | 45s | Clear and clear |
| Example 2 | 150s | Clear and clear |
| Example 3 | N/A | Unclear and bubbling in the oil phase |
| Example 4 | 55s | Clear and clear |
| Example 5 | 140s | Clear and clear |
| Example 6 | 160s | Clear and clear |
| Example 7 | N/A | Unclear vision |
| Example 8 | N/A | Unclear vision |
| Example 9 | 100s | Clear and clear |
| Example 10 | 120s | Clear and clear |
| Example 11 | N/A | Turbidity (haze) |
As can be seen from the above table, the composition according to the invention has a much longer separation time, while the interface is clear after the aqueous phase has separated from the oil phase.
It can also be seen that compositions comprising poloxamer 188 (example 7), poloxamer 338 (example 8) or acrylate polymers (example 11) do not have a clear interface after the aqueous phase separates from the oil phase. Compositions that do not contain polysaccharides as hydrophilic gelling agents will have shorter separation times.
When the two-phase compositions of examples 1, 3, 4, 7, 8 and 11 were applied to the skin around the eyes, it was found that the two-phase compositions according to the present invention can give a clean and pleasant skin appearance (skin finish) without any discomfort around the area of the eyes and can be easily rinsed off with water or rubbed off with a cotton pad with less residue on the skin.
While exemplary embodiments of the invention have been described above, it will of course be appreciated that many and various modifications will be apparent to those of ordinary skill in the relevant art in light of the foregoing description, or may become apparent as the technology advances. Such modifications are contemplated to be within the spirit and scope of one or more of the inventions disclosed in this specification.
Claims (17)
1. Two-phase composition for topical application consisting of a separated aqueous phase and an oily phase, comprising, as hydrophilic gelling agent, at least one polysaccharide and at least one polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide having formula (I):
H-(O-CH2CH2)x-(O-CH(CH3)-CH2)y-(O-CH2CH2)z-OH (I)
wherein x and z are in the range of 2-150 and y is in the range of 1-100.
2. The two-phase composition according to claim 1, wherein the polysaccharide is selected from carrageenans, in particular kappa-carrageenan; gellan gum; xanthan gum; alginate-based compounds, especially sodium alginate; scleroglucan gum; guar gum; cellulose gums and mixtures thereof.
3. The two-phase composition according to claim 1, wherein the polysaccharide is selected from the group consisting of carrageenan, xanthan gum, cellulose gum and mixtures thereof.
4. The two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein in formula (I), x and z are in the range of 5 to 150 and y is in the range of 10 to 100.
5. The two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein in formula (I), x and z are in the range of 8 to 50 and y is in the range of 20 to 60.
6. The two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein in formula (I), x and z are in the range of 10 to 20 and y is in the range of 25 to 40.
7. The two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide is such that x and z are identical.
8. The two-phase composition according to any of claims 1 to 7, wherein the weight average molecular weight of the polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide is not more than 8000, preferably in the range of 1500-8000, more preferably in the range of 1500-6000, more preferably in the range of 2000-4000, and most preferably in the range of 2000-3000.
9. The two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the oily phase comprises at least one oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone-based oils or fluorine-based oils, preferably chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched C8-C16An alkane.
10. The two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, further comprising a cosmetic active agent in the aqueous phase and/or the oil phase selected from: an anti-inflammatory agent; a depigmenting agent; an antibacterial active agent; a tightening agent; essential oil; UV screening agents and mixtures thereof.
11. The two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, further comprising, in the aqueous phase and/or in the oily phase, conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives selected from: fragrances, preservatives and bactericides, opacifiers, dyes and colorants, softeners, electrolytes, or pH adjusting agents and mixtures thereof.
12. The two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the amount of polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide ranges from 0.001% to 1% by weight, more particularly from 0.005% to 0.5% by weight and even more particularly from 0.01% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
13. The two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the polysaccharide is present in an amount of from 0.01% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.02% to 0.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.02% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
14. The two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the aqueous phase is present in an amount ranging from 10% to 99% by weight, preferably from 20% to 95% by weight, preferably from 25% to 90% by weight, even more preferably from 40% to 90% by weight and still better from 50% to 88% by weight relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
15. The two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein the oil phase is present in an amount ranging from 1% to 90% by weight, preferably from 5% to 80% by weight, preferably from 10% to 75% by weight and even more preferably from 10% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
16. A two-phase composition for topical application consisting of a separated aqueous phase and an oil phase comprising:
0.02% to 0.1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition, of at least one polysaccharide chosen from: carrageenans, especially kappa-carrageenan; gellan gum; xanthan gum; alginate-based compounds, especially sodium alginate; scleroglucan gum; guar gum; cellulose gums and mixtures thereof; and
0.01% to 0.1% by weight of at least one polycondensate of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide chosen from polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol triblock polycondensates.
17. Process for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing a cosmetic product from a keratin material, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, comprising shaking the two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16 to form an emulsion, and applying the emulsion to the keratin material.
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| PCT/CN2018/084579 WO2019205047A1 (en) | 2018-04-26 | 2018-04-26 | Two-phase composition for topical application |
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| FR2971421A1 (en) * | 2011-02-16 | 2012-08-17 | Oreal | Composition, useful e.g. for removing make-up and cleaning skin, comprises hydrophilic phase e.g. polycondensate of ethylene oxide, and separate oily phase comprising oil fatty acid ester and cyclic silicone oil |
| US20160206590A1 (en) * | 2012-11-13 | 2016-07-21 | Galderma S.A. | Bpo wash emulsion composition |
| US20160256367A1 (en) * | 2013-10-29 | 2016-09-08 | L'oreal | Two-phase composition comprising a fatty acid ester of sugar or a liquid alkyl polyglucoside, with an hlb < 8, and a c8-c18 branched alkane |
| US20160287703A1 (en) * | 2012-11-13 | 2016-10-06 | Galderma S.A. | Bpo wash gel composition |
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2018
- 2018-04-26 CN CN201880095061.7A patent/CN112292112B/en active Active
- 2018-04-26 WO PCT/CN2018/084579 patent/WO2019205047A1/en active Application Filing
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|---|---|---|---|---|
| US5165917A (en) * | 1988-11-09 | 1992-11-24 | Societe Anonyme Dite: L'oreal | Eye makeup remover with two separate phases |
| US5165917B1 (en) * | 1988-11-09 | 2000-03-14 | Oreal | Eye makeup remover with two separate phases |
| US5468496A (en) * | 1992-12-18 | 1995-11-21 | L'oreal | Two-phase cosmetic or dermatological composition |
| CN1539399A (en) * | 2003-04-22 | 2004-10-27 | 花王株式会社 | Taking-off compsns. and sheet-like taking-off material |
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| WO2019205047A1 (en) | 2019-10-31 |
| CN112292112B (en) | 2023-09-19 |
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