WO2019227334A1

WO2019227334A1 - Two-phase composition for topical application

Info

Publication number: WO2019227334A1
Application number: PCT/CN2018/089001
Authority: WO
Inventors: Quan Sun; Yu Huang
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2018-05-30
Filing date: 2018-05-30
Publication date: 2019-12-05
Also published as: CN112218609A

Abstract

A two-phase composition for topical application comprising: a) an aqueous phase containing at least one polysaccharide; and b) a fatty phase exhibiting a viscosity between 25 and 5000 mPa·s at a temperature of 25℃ containing at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or at least one phenyl silicone oils, wherein the aqueous phase and the fatty phase are separate. A process for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing make-up products from keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, comprising shaking the two-phase composition as described above together to form an oil-in-water emulsion and applying the emulsion to the keratin materials.

Description

TWO-PHASE COMPOSITION FOR TOPICAL APPLICATION

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing make-up products from keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes. In particular, the present invention relates to a two-phase composition for topical application. The present invention also relates to a process for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing make-up products from keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes.

BACKGROUND

Compositions consisting of two separate phases, especially an aqueous phase and a fatty phase which are separate, are generally referred to as "two-phase compositions" . Two-phase compositions appeal to consumers on account of their pearly appearance. The two phases are separated at rest by a single interface.

Two-phase compositions have already been described, for example in documents EP 0 370 856 and EP 0 603 080, especially for removing eye makeup.

Document EP 0 603 080 describes the use of alkyldimethylbenzylammonium and especially of benzalkonium chloride as a phase-separation agent, for obtaining rapid phase separation.

Document EP 1 514 534 also describes a two-phase composition containing sodium bicarbonate as phase-separation agent.

WO 2014/207259A2 discloses a two-phase composition for topical application comprising magnesium acetate.

The use of two-phase compositions necessitates prior shaking in order to form an emulsion. All of the two-phase composition mentioned above are characterized by rapid phase separation (or demixing) of the two phases after their use. That is to say, the two-phase composition mentioned above emulsifies readily by shaking and undergo rapid phase separation after the shaking is stopped.

Specifically, obtaining rapid phase separation is desirable for the two-phase compositions mentioned above, especially since poor separation of the two phases is perceived by users as being unaesthetic.

However, the emulsion obtained by shaking must be of sufficient stability to enable homogeneous application of the two phases.

There is thus still a need for a two-phase composition consisting of two separate phases, which will form a stable and uniform emulsion after shaking.

There is also a need for a composition of emulsion type with an aesthetic appearance, such as pearl-like appearance, and meanwhile being stable and homogeneous over time.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

One object of the present is thus to provide a two-phase composition for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing make-up products from keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, which will form a stable and uniform pearly emulsion after shaking.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a composition of emulsion type with an aesthetic appearance, such as pearl-like appearance, and meanwhile being stable and homogenous over time. The composition comprises oil droplets, visible with naked eyes, which are homogenously dispersed in the aqueous phase, and stable over time. That is to say, the composition of the invention does not show any coalescence of the oil droplets or dephasing (i.e. separation of the aqueous phase from the oil droplets which form a fatty phase) over time, especially during at least 3 months, under 25℃.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a kit comprising at least two separate compositions, which can form a stable and uniform pearly emulsion after mixing.

Still another object of the present invention is to provide a process for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing make-up products from keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes.

Thus, according to one aspect of the present invention, provided is a two-phase composition for topical application comprising:

a) an aqueous phase containing at least one polysaccharide; and

b) a fatty phase exhibiting a viscosity between 25 and 5000 mPa·s at a temperature of 25℃ containing at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or at least one phenyl silicone oil,

Wherein the aqueous phase and the fatty phase are separate.

According to another aspect of the present invention, provided is a composition in form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising:

a) a dispersed fatty phase containing at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or at least one phenyl silicone oil; and

b) a continuous aqueous phase containing at least one polysaccharide.

According to another aspect of the present invention, provided is a kit comprising

a) an oil composition exhibiting a viscosity between 25 and 5000 mPa·s at a temperature of 25℃ containing at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or at least one phenyl silicone oil; and

b) an aqueous composition containing at least one polysaccharide;

wherein the oil composition and the aqueous composition are capable of forming an oil-in-water emulsion upon mixing.

According to another aspect of the present invention, provided is a process for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing make-up products from keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, comprising shaking the two-phase composition as described above or the oil composition and the aqueous composition as described above together to form an oil-in-water emulsion and applying the emulsion to the keratin materials.

According to another aspect of the present invention, provided is a process for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing make-up products from keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, comprising applying the composition in form of an oil-in-water emulsion to the keratin materials.

Surprisingly, the inventors have found that with the two phase composition according to the present invention comprising polysaccharide in the aqueous phase and hydrocarbon-based oil and/or at least one phenyl silicone oil in the fatty phase, one could obtain a two-phase composition having the desired qualities, i.e. which will form a stable and uniform twinkling pearly emulsion after shaking.

Not intended to be limited by any theory, it is believed that the polysaccharide will stabilize the oil droplets formed after shaking in the aqueous phase, and a fatty phase with suitable viscosity ensures its stable existence in the aqueous phase.

In addition, the two-phase composition according to the present invention enables the consumers experience the application and transformation process by themselves.

Other advantages of the present invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and the examples that follow.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The two-phase composition for topical application according to the present invention comprises:

a) an aqueous phase containing at least one polysaccharide; and

Wherein the aqueous phase and the fatty phase are separate.

By "the aqueous phase and the fatty phase are separate" , it means that the aqueous phase and the fatty phase are visible one on top of the other before shaking.

The two-phase composition can be used to care for and/or make up keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes after being shaked to form a stable and uniform oil-in-water emulsion.

By “skin” , it means all the body skin, including the face, the lips and the eyes.

The term “stable” means that a composition does not undergo any significant change in its structure or properties for at least one month after its manufacture and especially for at least three months after its manufacture.

Aqueous phase

According to the present invention, the two-phase composition comprises an aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase comprises water.

The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, camomile water or lime blossom water, and/or a natural spring water or mineral water, for instance: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Néris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizières water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-bains water and Avene water. The aqueous phase may also comprise reconstituted spring water, i.e. a water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a spring water.

The aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature: 25℃) , for instance monoalcohols containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; polyols comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups, especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di-or tripropylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ethers, mono-, di-or triethylene glycol (C ₁-C ₄) alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.

The aqueous phase of the composition of the present invention preferably comprises water and an alcohol chosen monoalcohols, for example ethanol or isopropanol, and polyols, for example, preferably butylene glycol, glycerin, or propylene glycol.

Preferably, the aqueous phase comprises water, ethanol and glycerin.

The monoalcohol may be present in an amount that is, for example, less than or equal to 10%by weight and preferably ranging from 0.1%to 10%, more preferably ranging from 3%to 8%by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

The polyol may be present in an amount of less than or equal to 10%, preferably ranging from 0.1%to 10%by weight, more preferably from 3%to 9%by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

The content of the aqueous phase is adjusted according to the desired cosmeticity and so that the composition has a freezing point of less than 4℃.

In particular, the two-phase composition according to the present invention may comprise an aqueous phase in an amount ranging from 10%to 95%by weight, preferably from 25%to 90%by weight, even more preferably from 40%to 90%by weight and better still from 50%to 88%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.

Polysaccharide

According to the present invention, the aqueous phase comprises at least one polysaccharide as hydrophilic gelling agent.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic gelling agent" means a compound that is capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the two-phase compositions according to the present invention.

As a general rule, the polysaccharides according to the present invention may be chosen from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae and polysaccharides from upper plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, particularly celluloses and derivatives thereof and fructosans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arabic, galactomannans, glucomannans, pectins, and derivatives thereof.

In particular, the polysaccharides may be chosen from fructans, gellans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, celluloses and derivatives thereof, particularly methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, compounds based on alginate, chitin, chitosans, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabic, Tragacanth gums, Ghatti gums, Karaya gums, carob gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and non-ionic derivatives, particularly hydroxypropyl guar, and ionic derivatives thereof, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, particularly scleroglucan or xanthan gums, mucopolysaccharides, and particularly chondroitin sulfates and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the aqueous phase comprises at least one polysaccharide chosen from carrageenans, particularly kappa-carrageenan, gellan gum, agar-agar, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, particularly sodium alginate, sceroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin, pullulan, and mixtures thereof as hydrophilic gelling agent.

These polysaccharides may be chemically modified, particularly by urea, urethane groups, or by means of a hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfation, phosphation, amination, amidation, alkylation reaction, or by a plurality of these modifications.

The derivatives obtained may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

According to one particular embodiment, the polysaccharide is chosen from gellan gum, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, particularly sodium alginate, sceroglucan gum, guar gum, and mixtures thereof.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the polysaccharide is xanthan gum.

Xanthan gum has a molecular weight between 1,000,000 g/mol and 50,000,000 g/mol and a viscosity between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1%xanthan gum (measured at 25℃ with a Brookfield LVT viscometer at 60 rpm) .

Xanthan gum is represented for example by the products sold under the names Rhodicare by RHODIA CHIMIE, under the name SATIAXANE ^TM by Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry) , under the name NOVAXAN ^TM by ADM, and under the names

and

by CP-Kelco.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the polysaccharide is gellan gum.

According to one particularly preferred embodiment, the polysaccharide agent is a mixture of gellan gum and xanthan gum.

Preferably, the polysaccharide may be present in an amount of from 0.05%to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.1%to 3%by weight, more preferably 0.2%to 1.5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

Fatty phase

According to the present invention, the two-phase composition comprises a fatty phase which exhibits a viscosity between 25 and 5000 mPa·s at a temperature of 25℃.

Preferably, the viscosity of the fatty phase is between 25 and 50 mPa·s, more preferably between 28 and48 mPa·s.

The viscosity is generally measured at 25℃ with a viscosimeter RHEOMAT RM 180 with Mobile 2 adapted to the viscosity of the product to be tested (mobile is chosen for having a measure between 10 and 90 for UD Unit Deviation) , the measure being made after rotating the mobile inside the composition for 10 minutes, with a cisaillement from 200s ^-1. The UD values may then be converted in Poises (1 Poise=0.1Pa·s) with a correspondence table.

The two-phase composition according to the present invention may comprise a fatty phase in an amount ranging from 5%to 90%by weight, preferably from 10%to 90%by weight, even more preferably from 10%to 60%by weight and better still from 12%to 50%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.

The fatty phase comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or at least one phenyl silicone oil.

Hydrocarbon-based oil

The term "oil" means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25℃) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially from, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

The hydrocarbon-based oil may be chosen from:

-hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially:

-- branched C ₈-C ₁₆ alkanes, for instance C ₈-C ₁₆ isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins) , for instance isododecane (also known as 2, 2, 4, 4, 6-pentamethylheptane) , isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade name Isopar or Permethyl,

-- linear alkanes, for instance n-dodecane (C ₁₂) and n-tetradecane (C ₁₄) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C ₁₁) and of n-tridecane (C ₁₃) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155 059 from the company Cognis, and mixtures thereof,

-- short-chain esters (containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl acetate,

- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin such as triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerin, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C ₄ to C ₂₄, these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are especially heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion-flower oil and musk rose oil; shea butter; or else caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol

and

by the company Dynamit Nobel,

- synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as

squalane and liquid paraffins, and mixtures thereof,

- synthetic esters such as oils of formula R ₁COOR ₂ in which R ₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms or aromatic acid residue containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, and R ₂ represents an, in particular, branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on the condition that R ₁+R ₂>10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C ₁₂-C ₁₅ alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, alkyl or polyalkyl heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate and 2-octyldodecyl lactate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters,

- fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol,

-optionally hydroxylated monoesters, diesters or triesters of a C ₂-C ₈ monocarboxylic or polycarboxylic acid and of a C ₂-C ₈ alcohol, in particular:

-- optionally hydroxylated monoesters of a C ₂-C ₈ carboxylic acid and of a C ₂-C ₈ alcohol,

-- optionally hydroxylated diesters of a C ₂-C ₈ dicarboxylic acid and of a C ₂-C ₈ alcohol, such as diisopropyl adipate, 2-diethylhexyl adipate, dibutyl adipate, diisostearyl adipate or 2-diethylhexyl succinate,

-- optionally hydroxylated triesters of a C ₂-C ₈ tricarboxylic acid and of a C ₂-C ₈ alcohol, such as citric acid esters, such as trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, tributyl citrate or acetyl tributyl citrate;

- a mixture thereof.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from optionally hydroxylated triesters of a C ₂-C ₈ tricarboxylic acid and of a C ₂-C ₈ alcohol, such as citric acid esters, such as trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, tributyl citrate or acetyl tributyl citrate, and oils of formula R ₁COOR ₂ in which R ₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms or aromatic acid residue containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, and R ₂ represents an, in particular, branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on the condition that R ₁+R ₂>10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C ₁₂-C ₁₅ alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, alkyl or polyalkyl heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate and 2-octyldodecyl lactate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters,

More preferably, the hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from C ₁₂-C ₁₅ alkyl benzoates and acetyl tributyl citrate.

Phenyl silicone oil

The expression "phenyl silicone oil" denotes a silicone oil bearing at least one phenyl substituent.

The phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from those also having at least one dimethicone fragment, or from those not having one.

According to the present invention, a dimethicone fragment corresponds to the following unit:

-Si (CH ₃) ₂-O-.

The phenyl silicone oil may thus be chosen from:

a) phenyl silicone oils optionally having a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (I) below:

in which the groups R, which are monovalent or divalent, represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl.

Preferably, the phenyl silicone oil of formula (I) comprises at least three, for example at least four, at least five or at least six, phenyl groups.

b) phenyl silicone oils optionally having a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (II) below:

in which the groups R represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl.

Preferably, the phenyl silicone oil of formula (II) comprises at least three, for example at least four or at least five, phenyl groups.

Mixtures of different phenylorganopolysiloxane compounds described above can be used.

Examples that may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl-, tetraphenyl-or pentaphenyl-organopolysiloxanes.

Among the compounds of formula (II) , mention may be made more particularly of phenyl silicone oils not having any dimethicone fragments, corresponding to formula (II) in which at least 4 or at least 5 radicals R represent a phenyl radical, the remaining radicals representing methyls.

Such phenyl silicone oils are preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane. They are in particular sold by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1, 3, 5-trimethyl-1, 1, 3, 5, 5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name: trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane) , or the tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane sold under the reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning can also be used.

They correspond in particular to formulae (III) and (III') below:

in which Me represents methyl and Ph represents phenyl.

c) phenyl silicone oils having at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (IV) below:

in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000 and X represents-CH ₂-CH (CH ₃) (Ph) .

d) phenyl silicone oils corresponding to formula (V) below, and mixtures thereof:

in which:

- R ₁ to R ₁₀, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C ₁-C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radicals,

- m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, with the proviso that the sum m+n+q is other than 0.

Preferably, the sum m+n+q is between 1 and 100. Advantageously, the sum m+n+p+q is between 1 and 900 and preferably between 1 and 800.

Preferably, q is equal to 0.

More particularly, R ₁ to R ₁₀, independently of each other, represent a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear or branched C ₁-C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radical, and in particular a preferably saturated, C ₁-C ₂₀, in particular C ₁-C ₁₈, hydrocarbon-based radical, or a monocyclic or polycyclic C ₆-C ₁₄, and in particular C ₁₀-C ₁₃, aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical, the alkyl part of which is preferably C ₁-C ₃ alkyl.

Preferably, R ₁ to R ₁₀ may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. R ₁ to R ₁₀ may in particular be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.

According to a more particular embodiment of formula (V) , mention may be made of:

i) phenyl silicone oils optionally having at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (VI) below, and mixtures thereof:

in which:

- R ₁ to R ₆, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C ₁-C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radicals, a preferably C ₆-C ₁₄ aryl radical or an aralkyl radical, the alkyl part of which is C ₁-C ₃ alkyl,

- m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.

Preferably, R ₁ to R ₆, independently of each other, represent a C ₁-C ₂₀, in particular C ₁-C ₁₈, hydrocarbon-based radical, preferably alkyl, or a C ₆-C ₁₄ aryl radical which is monocyclic (preferably C ₆) or polycyclic and in particular C ₁₀-C ₁₃ aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical (preferably the aryl part is C ₆ aryl; the alkyl part is C ₁-C ₃ alkyl) .

Preferably, R ₁ to R ₆ may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.

R ₁ to R ₆ may in particular be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical. Preferably, m=1 or 2 or 3, and/or n=0 and/or p=0 or 1 can be applied, in formula (VI) .

According to one particular embodiment, the phenyl silicone oil is chosen from phenyl silicone oils having at least one dimethicone fragment.

Preferably, such oils correspond to compounds of formula (VI) in which:

A) m=0 and n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 1 and 100

Preferably, R ₁ to R ₆ are methyl radicals.

According to this embodiment, the silicone oil is preferably chosen from a diphenyl dimethicone such as KF-54 from Shin Etsu (400 cSt) , KF54HV from Shin Etsu (5000 cSt) , KF-50-300CS from Shin Etsu (300 cSt) , KF-53 from Shin Etsu (175 cSt) or KF-50-100CS from Shin Etsu (100 cSt) .

B) p is between 1 and 100, the sum n+m is between 1 and 100, and n=0

These phenyl silicone oils optionally having at least one dimethicone fragment correspond more particularly to formula (VII) below:

in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group-OSiMe ₃ and p is 0 or is between 1 and 1000, and m is between 1 and 1000. In particular, m and p are such that the compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil.

According to an embodiment of the present invention, phenyl silicone having at least one dimethicone fragment, p is between 1 and 1000 and m is more particularly such that the compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil. Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, sold in particular under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 by the company Wacker, may, for example, be used.

According to an embodiment of phenyl silicone not having a dimethicone fragment, p is equal to 0 and m is between 1 and 1000, and in particular is such that the compound (VII) is a non-volatile oil.

Phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane, for example, sold in particular under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556) , may be used.

ii) phenyl silicone oils not having a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (VIII) below, and mixtures thereof:

in which:

- R, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C ₁-C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radicals, preferably R is a C ₁-C ₃₀ alkyl radical, a preferably C ₆-C ₁₄ aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical, the alkyl part of which is C ₁-C ₃ alkyl,

- m and n are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.

Preferably, R, independently of each other, represent a saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, linear or branched C ₁-C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based radical, and in particular a preferably saturated, C ₁-C ₂₀, in particular C ₁-C ₁₈ and more particularly C ₄-C ₁₀, hydrocarbon-based radical, a monocyclic or polycyclic C ₆-C ₁₄, and in particular C ₁₀-C ₁₃, aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical of which preferably the aryl part is C ₆ aryl and the alkyl part is C ₁-C ₃ alkyl.

Preferably, the groups R may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.

The groups R may in particular be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.

Preferably, m=1 or 2 or 3, and/or n=0 and/or p=0 or 1 can be applied, in formula (VIII) .

According to one preferred embodiment, n is an integer between 0 and 100 and m is an integer between 1 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100, in formula (VIII) . Preferably, R is a methyl radical.

According to one embodiment, a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII) with a viscosity at 25℃ of between 5 and 1500 mm ²/s (i.e. 5 to 1500 cSt) , and preferably with a viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm ²/s (i.e. 5 to 1000 cSt) , may be used.

According to this embodiment, the phenyl silicone oil is preferably chosen from phenyl trimethicones (when n=0) such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt) , or else from diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone oil (when m and n are between 1 and 100) such as KF56A from Shin Etsu, or the Silbione 70663V30 oil from

(28 cSt) . The values in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25℃.

e) phenyl silicone oils optionally having at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (IX) , and mixtures thereof:

in which:

R1, R2, R5 and R6, which may be identical or different, are an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R3 and R4, which may be identical or different, are an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical (preferably C ₆-C ₁₄) , with the proviso that at least one of R3 and R4 is a phenyl radical,

X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical,

n and p being an integer greater than or equal to 1, chosen so as to give the oil a weight-average molecular weight of less than 200 000 g/mol, preferably less than 150 000 g/mol and more preferably less than 100 000 g/mol.

f) and a mixture thereof.

More particularly, the total weight of hydrocarbon-based oil (s) and phenyl silicone oil present is from 20%to 95%by weight, preferably from 50%to 90%by weight, more preferably from 70%to 90%by weight, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon-based oil (s) and/or phenyl silicone oil constitute the only oil (s) of the fatty phase, or are present in a predominant weight content relative to the additional oil (s) that may be present in the fatty phase.

Preferably, the fatty phase also comprises at least one fatty acid ester of dextrin as lipophilic gelling agent.

Lipophilic gelling agent

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "lipophilic gelling agent" means a compound that is capable of gelling the fatty phase of the fatty phase according to the present invention.

The lipophilic gelling agent (s) are liposoluble or lipodispersible.

Fatty acid esters of dextrin

The fatty acid esters of dextrin used according to the present invention may be chosen especially from monoesters or polyesters of dextrin and of at least one fatty acid, corresponding to formula (X) :

in which:

n is an integer ranging from 3 to 150, especially from 10 to 100 and preferably from 15 to 40;

the radicals R ₁, R ₂ and R ₃ represent a hydrogen atom or an acyl group (R-CO-) in which the radical R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing from 6 to 50, especially from 8 to 30, or even 12 to 22 and better still 12 to 18 carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of said radicals R ₁, R ₂ or R ₃ is other than a hydrogen atom.

In particular, R ₁, R ₂ and R ₃ may represent hydrogen or an acyl group (R-CO-) in which R is a hydrocarbon-based radical as defined previously, with the proviso that at least two of said radicals R ₁, R ₂ or R ₃ are identical and other than hydrogen.

The radicals R ₁, R ₂ and R ₃ may all represent an acyl group (R-CO) , which is identical or different and especially identical.

The radical R-CO-of the dextrin ester of formula (X) may be chosen especially from caprylyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristyl, palmityl, stearyl, eicosanyl, docosanoyl, isovaleryl, 2-ethylbutyryl, ethylmethylacetyl, isoheptanyl, 2-ethylhexanyl, isononanyl, isodecanyl, isotridecanyl, isomyristyl, isopalmityl, isostearyl, isohexanyl, decenyl, dodecenyl, tetradecenyl, myristyl, hexadecenoyl, palmitoleyl, oleyl, elaidyl, eicosenyl, sorbyl, linoleyl, linolenyl, punicyl, arachidonyl and stearolyl radicals, and mixtures thereof.

The radical R-CO is advantageously linear.

The radical R-CO is preferably a palmityl radical or a myristyl radical, and even more preferentially a palmityl radical.

n advantageously ranges from 25 to 35, preferably from 27 to 33, and better is equal to 30.

Preferably, at least one dextrin palmitate and/or at least one dextrin myristate is used as fatty acid ester of dextrin. They may be used alone or as a mixture with other esters.

Advantageously, the fatty acid ester of dextrin has a degree of substitution of less than or equal to 2.5, especially ranging from 1.5 to 2.5, on the basis of one glucose unit. The weight-average molecular weight of the dextrin ester may in particular be from 10 000 to 150 000, especially from 12 000 to 100 000 and even from 15 000 to 80 000.

Dextrin esters are commercially available, in particular dextrin palmitates, for example under the name Rheopearl TL2-OR or Rheopearl KL2-OR from the company Chiba Flour Milling, and under the name Rheopearl KS from the company Chiba Flour Milling, and dextrin myristates, for example under the name Rheopearl MKL2 from the company Chiba Flour Milling.

According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, use will be made of a mixture of a fatty acid ester of dextrin whose degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of one glucose unit and of a fatty acid ester of dextrin whose degree of substitution is greater than 2 on the basis of one glucose unit, as described in patent application FR 2 843 020.

According to one embodiment, the fatty acid ester of dextrin whose degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of one glucose unit advantageously corresponds to formula (XI) below:

in which:

n is an integer ranging from 3 to 150, especially from 10 to 100 and preferably from 15 to 40.

The radical R-CO-of the dextrin ester of formula (XI) may be chosen especially from caprylyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristyl, palmityl, stearyl, eicosanyl, docosanoyl, isovaleryl, 2-ethylbutyryl, ethylmethylacetyl, isoheptanyl, 2-ethylhexanyl, isononanyl, isodecanyl, isotridecanyl, isomyristyl, isopalmityl, isostearyl, isohexanyl, decenyl, dodecenyl, tetradecenyl, myristyl, hexadecenoyl, palmitoleyl, oleyl, elaidyl, eicosenyl, sorbyl, linoleyl, linolenyl, punicyl, arachidonyl and stearolyl radicals, and mixtures thereof.

The radical R-CO is advantageously linear. The radical R-CO is preferably a palmityl radical or a myristyl radical, and even more preferentially a palmityl radical.

Preferably, use is made of a fatty acid ester of dextrin whose degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of one glucose unit, such that the degree of substitution is less than 1.9, preferably less than 1.8 and more preferably is between 1.5 and 1.7. Some of these dextrin esters are commercially available, especially under the name Rheopearl TL from the company Chiba Flour Milling.

The weight-average molecular weight of the fatty acid ester of dextrin whose degree of substitution is less than 2 on the basis of one glucose unit is preferably between 10 000 and 30 000, more preferably between 15 000 and 20 000. The weight-average molecular weight is determined by gas chromatography, with polystyrene calibration.

According to one embodiment, the fatty acid ester of dextrin whose degree of substitution is greater than 2 on the basis of one glucose unit corresponds to formula (XII) :

in which:

the radicals R' ₁, R' ₂ and R' ₃, which may be identical or different, are chosen from a hydrogen atom and an acyl group (R'-CO-) in which the radical R' is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing from 6 to 50, especially from 8 to 30, or even 12 to 22 and better still 12 to 18 carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of said radicals R' ₁, R' ₂ or R' ₃ is other than a hydrogen atom;

R' and n may have the same meaning as R and n described previously with respect to formula (XI) .

Advantageously, the radicals R' ₁, R' ₂ and R' ₃ are identical, with the proviso that at least one of said radicals R' ₁, R' ₂ or R' ₃ is other than a hydrogen atom.

Preferably, use is made of a fatty acid ester of dextrin whose degree of substitution is greater than 2 on the basis of one glucose unit, such that the degree of substitution is greater than 2.1, preferably between 2.1 and 2.3.

The weight-average molecular weight of the fatty acid ester of dextrin whose degree of substitution is greater than 2 on the basis of one glucose unit is preferably between 10 000 and 30 000, more preferably between 15 000 and 20 000. The weight-average molecular weight is determined by gas chromatography, with polystyrene calibration.

As examples of dextrin esters of formula (XII) according to the present invention, mention may be made of Rheopearl KL sold by the company Chiba Flour Milling.

According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the lipophilic gelling agent (s) that may be used in the context of the present invention are chosen from fatty acid esters of dextrin, preferably dextrin palmitate and dextrin myristate.

The lipophilic gelling agent (if any) presents in an amount of from 1%to 15%by weight, preferably from 2%to 10%by weight and more preferably from 3%to 8%by weight, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

In a preferred embodiment, the lipophilic gelling agent presents in an amount of at least 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

Preferably, the viscosity at a temperature of 25℃ of the fatty phase without the fatty acid esters of dextrin mentioned above is between 25 and 35 mPa·s.

Preferably, the viscosity at a temperature of 25℃ of the fatty phase containing the fatty acid esters of dextrin mentioned above is 40-50 mPa·s.

Cosmetic active agent (s)

Depend on the final purpose, the two-phase composition can comprises a cosmetic active agent (s) in one or other phase depending on their hydrophilic or lipophilic nature.

As cosmetic active agents that may be used in the two-phase composition of the present invention, especially when it is a skincare composition, examples that may be mentioned include enzymes; flavonoids; moisturizers anti-inflammatory agents; vitamins; depigmenting agents; α-hydroxy acids; retinoids; antibacterial active agents; tensioning agents; ceramides; essential oils; UV-screening agents (or sunscreens) , and mixtures thereof; and any active agent that is suitable for the final purpose of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the aqueous phase comprises extracts of plants, wherein the extracts of plants are present in an active-material amount ranging from 0.2%to 10%by weight, preferably from 0.5%to 8%by weight, more preferably 1%to 5%by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the fatty phase comprises vitamins and extracts of plants, wherein the vitamin presents in an active-material amount ranging from 0.1%to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.5%to 2%by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase, and the extracts of plants are present in an active-material amount ranging from 0.5%to 15%by weight, preferably from 2%to 12%by weight, more preferably 3%to 10%by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.

The UV-screening agents may be present in the composition according to the present invention especially when it is intended for antisun protection.

These screening agents may especially be organic screening agents, and they may be present in an active-material amount ranging from 0.01%to 20%by weight of active material, preferably from 0.1%to 15%by weight and better still 0.2%to 10%by weight relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.

As examples of UV-A-active and/or UV-B-active organic screening agents, which may be added to the composition of the present invention, examples that may be mentioned include derivatives bearing a sulfonic function, such as sulfone or sulfonate derivatives of benzylidenecamphor, benzophenone or phenylbenzimidazole, more particularly benzylidenecamphor derivatives, for instance benzene-1, 4-bis (3-methylidenecamphor-10-sulfonic acid) , (INCI name: Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid) manufactured under the name Mexoryl SX by the company Chimex, and 4'-sulfo-3-benzylidenecamphor (INCI name: Benzylidenecamphorsulfonic acid) manufactured under the name Mexoryl SL by the company Chimex, 2- [4- (camphormethylidene) phenyl] benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid (INCI name: Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid) , sold under the name Eusolex 232 by the company Merck; para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives; salicylic derivatives such as ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan OS by Haarmann and Reimer; dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane sold especially under the trade name Parsol 1789 by the company Hoffmann LaRoche; cinnamic derivatives such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, sold especially under the trade name Parsol MCX by Hoffmann LaRoche; β, β’-diphenylacrylate derivatives such as octocrylene (2-ethylhexyl α-cyano-β, β-diphenylacrylate) sold under the trade name Uvinul N539 by the company BASF; benzophenone derivatives such as benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name Uvinul 400 by BASF, benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name Uvinul D50 by BASF, benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, sold under the trade name Uvinul M40 by BASF, benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name Uvinul MS40 by BASF; benzylidenecamphor derivatives such as 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor sold under the trade name Eusolex 6300 by Merck; phenylbenzimidazole derivatives such as benzimidazilate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP by Haarmann and Reimer; triazine derivatives such as anisotriazine sold under the trade name Tinosorb S by Ciba Geigy and ethylhexyl triazone sold especially under the trade name Uvinul T150 by BASF; phenylbenzotriazole derivatives such as drometrizole trisiloxane sold under the trade name Silatrizole by Rhodia Chimie; anthranilic derivatives such as menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA by Haarmann and Reimer; imidazoline derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

It is easy for the skilled in the art to adjust the amount of the cosmetic active agent based on the final use of the two-phase composition.

Adjuvants or additives

The composition according to the present invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, which will be in one or other phase depending on their hydrophilic or lipophilic nature, for instance fragrances, preserving agents and bactericides, opacifiers, dyes, softeners, buffers, electrolytes such as sodium chloride, or a pH regulator (for example citric acid or sodium hydroxide) , and mixtures thereof.

Preserving agents that may be used include any preserving agent usually used in the fields under consideration, for instance parabens, chlorphenesin, phenoxyethanol, chlorhexidine gluconate and polyhexamethylene biguanide hydrochloride (CTFA name: Polyaminopropyl biguanide) .

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the two-phase composition contains phenoxyethanol and chlorphenesin as preserving agent in the aqueous phase.

The preserving agent, when presents in the two-phase composition, generally represent from 0.1%to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.2%to 2%by weight and better still from 0.5%to 1%by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the aqueous phase comprises at least one aqueous-phase opacifier.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "aqueous-phase opacifier" means any additive for opacifying the aqueous phase into which it is added, for example an additive which, when added to a transparent medium, would lead to a translucent to opaque medium.

The opacifier (s) may be chosen from alkylcelluloses, the alkyl residue of which comprises between 1 and 6 carbon atoms and preferably between 1 and 3 carbon atoms, preferably ethylcellulose.

The opacifier, when presents in the two-phase composition, generally represents from 0.001%to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.002%to 1%by weight and better still from 0.003%to 0.5%by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

Needless to say, the skilled in the art will take care to select the optional adjuvant (s) added to the composition according to the present invention such that the advantageous properties intrinsically associated with the composition according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisaged addition.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the two-phase composition for topical application according to the present invention comprises:

a) an aqueous phase containing from 0.2%to 1.5%by weight of at least one polysaccharide chosen form gellan gum, xanthan gum and a mixture thereof, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase; and

b) an fatty phase containing from 70%to 90%by weight of oil chosen from C ₁₂-C ₁₅ alkyl benzoates, optionally hydroxylated triesters of a C ₂-C ₈ tricarboxylic acid and of a C ₂-C ₈ alcohol, and phenyl silicone oils not having a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (II) below:

wherein at least 3, at least 4 or at least 5 radicals R represent a phenyl radical, the remaining radical R represent methyls, and

from 3%to 8%by weight of at least one fatty acid ester of dextrin relative to the total weight of the fatty phase, the at least one fatty acid ester of dextrin is chosen from monoesters or polyesters of dextrin and of at least one fatty acid, corresponding to formula (X) :

in which:

n is an integer ranging from 3 to 150;

the radicals R ₁, R ₂ and R ₃ represent a hydrogen atom or an acyl group (R-CO-) in which the radical R-CO-is chosen especially from caprylyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristyl, palmityl, stearyl, eicosanyl, docosanoyl, isovaleryl, 2-ethylbutyryl, ethylmethylacetyl, isoheptanyl, 2-ethylhexanyl, isononanyl, isodecanyl, isotridecanyl, isomyristyl, isopalmityl, isostearyl, isohexanyl, decenyl, dodecenyl, tetradecenyl, myristyl, hexadecenoyl, palmitoleyl, oleyl, elaidyl, eicosenyl, sorbyl, linoleyl, linolenyl, punicyl, arachidonyl and stearolyl radicals, with the proviso that at least one of said radicals R ₁, R ₂ or R ₃ is other than a hydrogen atom,

wherein the aqueous phase comprises a cosmetic active agent chosen from extracts of plants, and/or the fatty phase comprises a cosmetic active agent chosen from vitamins, extracts of plants and mixtures thereof;

Wherein the aqueous phase and the fatty phase are separate.

The two-phase compositions described above may be conditioned, in a known manner, in a bottle with a single compartment. The user may then shake the bottle before pouring its contents onto a pad of cotton.

In a preferred embodiment, the two-phase composition is contained a package device comprising a container and a pipette, wherein the aqueous phase is contained in the container and the fatty phase is contained in the pipette.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a composition of emulsion type with an aesthetic appearance, such as pearl-like appearance, and meanwhile being stable and homogenous over time.

The two-phase composition according to the present invention can be shaked to form a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, which also belongs to the protection scope of the present invention.

Thus, according to another aspect of the present invention, provided is a composition in form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising:

a) a dispersed fatty phase containing at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and at least one fatty acid ester of dextrin as lipophilic gelling agent; and

b) a continuous aqueous phase containing at least one polysaccharide.

The dispersed fatty phase can be formed from the fatty phase defined with respect to the two-phase composition.

The aqueous composition can be the aqueous phase defined with respect to the two-phase composition.

In particular, the fatty phase is in form of droplets.

The oil droplets are visible by observing them using the bear eyes.

More particularly, the droplets have a median particle size by volume Dv50 from 0.01 mm to 10 mm, preferably from 0.05 mm to 5 mm.

Even more preferably, the droplets have a median particle size by volume Dv50 of 0.1 mm.

The median particle size by volume Dv50 is a parameter for particle size distribution, referring to the maximum particle diameter below which 50%of the sample volume exists (see in A Basic Guide To Particle Characterization, page 10, published by Malvern Instruments Limited in 2012) .

The particle size by volume Dv50 of the oil droplets may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer such as the MasterSizer 3000 machine from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles, " Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

The composition in form of an oil-in-water emulsion according to the present invention has pearly appearance.

Thus, according to another aspect of the present invention, provided is a kit comprising

b) an aqueous phase composition containing at least one polysaccharide;

The mixing can be done by the user using the kit.

The definition for the fatty phase of the two-phase composition can be applied to the oil composition.

The definition for the aqueous phase of the two-phase composition can be applied to the aqueous composition.

The kit according to the present invention can be used in the packaging and dispensing device as disclosed in for example, WO2017/127992A1, and the filling assembly as disclosed in WO201712993A1.

For example, an assembly comprises the kit according to the present invention and a packaging and dispensing device which comprises a container and a pipette, wherein the aqueous composition of the kit is contained in the container and the fatty composition of the kit is contained in the pipette.

Method and use

Another object of the present invention is to provide a process for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing make-up products from keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes.

The two-phase composition, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion or the kit according to the present invention may be used for any topical application.

In particular, the two-phase composition, the composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion or the kit according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing make-up products from keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes.

Thus, the present invention also relates to a process for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing make-up products from keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, comprising shaking the two-phase composition as described above or the oil composition and the aqueous composition as described above together to form an oil-in-water emulsion and applying the emulsion to the keratin materials.

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to. When the definition of a term in the present description conflicts with the meaning as commonly understood by those skilled in the art the present invention belongs to, the definition described herein shall apply.

Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing amount of ingredients and the like which are used in the description and claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about” . Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which are capable of being changed according to the desired purpose as required.

The term “and/or” used herein refers to one or all of the elements mentioned.

The terms "between" and "ranging from" used herein should be understood as including the limits.

The terms “containing” and “comprising” used herein respectively cover both the case that only the elements mentioned present and the case that other unmentioned elements in addition to the elements mentioned present.

All percentages in the present invention refer to weight percentage, unless otherwise specified.

The examples that follow are aimed at illustrating the compositions and processes according to this invention, but are not in any way a limitation of the scope of the invention. The names of the compounds are given as the chemical names or the INCI names.

EXAMPLES

Example 1:

The following two-phase composition according to the invention is prepared.

A fatty phase with the following formula is prepared (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material, unless otherwise indicated) :

Procedure: cold mixing of the ingredients of the fatty phase.

An aqueous phase with the following formula is prepared (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of active material, unless otherwise indicated) :

Procedure: cold mixing of the ingredients of the aqueous phase.

The two-phase composition consisting of two separate phases is thus obtained.

Observations of the interface before shaking: sharp interface.

Upon shaking by hand the two-phase composition according to the invention, a stable and uniform pearly oil-in-water emulsion was formed and no phase separation was observed even after three months' standing at room temperature.

Following the same procedure, compositions with the following formulas are prepared.

Example 2:

The viscosity of the oil phase for each formula was measured according to the procedure mentioned previously.

The stability of the Formulas prepared in the Example 1 were evaluated.

The stability tests of the invention formulas and the comparative formulas at 25℃ for three months were conducted using Binder oven (USA) , by leaving the invention and comparative formulas in the oven for 3 months.

The light stability tests for 24 hours were conducted using ATLAC (AMETEK Measurement and Calibration Technologies) .

The invention formulas have a good stability under room temperature for three months.

The results of the tests for the invention and comparative formulas were listed below.

It is observed from the result above, that the invention formulas according to the present invention show a good stability, pearly appearance with a stable and uniform distribution of the visible oil droplets, and no phase separation even after three months' standing at room temperature, as compared to the comparative formula.

Claims

A two-phase composition for topical application comprising:

a) an aqueous phase containing at least one polysaccharide; and

b) a fatty phase exhibiting a viscosity between 25 and 5000 mPa·s at a temperature of 25℃ containing at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or at least one phenyl silicone oil,

Wherein the aqueous phase and the fatty phase are separate.
The two-phase composition according to Claim 1, wherein the fatty phase comprises at least one fatty acid ester of dextrin as lipophilic gelling agent.
The two-phase composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the aqueous phase presents in an amount ranging from 10%to 95%by weight, preferably from 25%to 90%by weight, even more preferably from 40%to 90%by weight and better still from 50%to 88%by weight, relative to the total weight of the two-phase composition.
The two-phase composition according to any one of Claims 1-3, wherein at least one polysaccharide chosen from carrageenans, particularly kappa-carrageenan, gellan gum, agar-agar, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, particularly sodium alginate, sceroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin, pullulan, and mixtures thereof.
The two-phase composition according to any one of Claims 1-4, wherein an aqueous phase comprises gellan or the combination of gellan and xanthan.
The two-phase composition according to any one of Claims 1-5, wherein the polysaccharide presents in an amount of from 0.05%to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.1%to 3%by weight, more preferably 0.2%to 1.5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.
The two-phase composition according to any one of Claims 1-6, wherein the hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from optionally hydroxylated triesters of a C ₂-C ₈ tricarboxylic acid and of a C ₂-C ₈ alcohol and oils of formula R ₁COOR ₂ in which R ₁ represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms or aromatic acid residue containing 6 to 40 carbon atoms, and R ₂ represents an, in particular, branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on the condition that R ₁+R ₂>10.
The two-phase composition according to any one of Claims 1-7, wherein the hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from trioctyl citrate, triethyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, tributyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C ₁₂-C ₁₅ alkyl benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, alkyl or polyalkyl heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate and 2-octyldodecyl lactate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters.
The composition according to any one of claims 1-8, characterized in that the at least one phenyl silicone oil is chosen from phenyl silicone oils not having a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (II) below:

wherein at least 3, at least 4 or at least 5 radicals R represent a phenyl radical, the remaining radical R represent methyls.
The two-phase composition according to any one of Claims 1-9, wherein the total weight of hydrocarbon-based oil and phenyl silicon oil is from 20%to 95%by weight, preferably from 50%to 90%by weight, more preferably from 70%to 90%by weight, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.
The two-phase composition according to Claim 2, wherein the fatty acid ester of dextrin is chosen from monoesters or polyesters of dextrin and of at least one fatty acid, corresponding to formula (X) :

in which:

n is an integer ranging from 3 to 150, especially from 10 to 100 and preferably from 15 to 40;

the radicals R ₁, R ₂ and R ₃ represent a hydrogen atom or an acyl group (R-CO-) in which the radical R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based group containing from 6 to 50, especially from 8 to 30, or even 12 to 22 and better still 12 to 18 carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of said radicals R ₁, R ₂ or R ₃ is other than a hydrogen atom.
The two-phase composition according to Claim 11, wherein

n advantageously ranges from 25 to 35, preferably from 27 to 33, and better is equal to 30;

the radical R-CO-is chosen from caprylyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristyl, palmityl, stearyl, eicosanyl, docosanoyl, isovaleryl, 2-ethylbutyryl, ethylmethylacetyl, isoheptanyl, 2-ethylhexanyl, isononanyl, isodecanyl, isotridecanyl, isomyristyl, isopalmityl, isostearyl, isohexanyl, decenyl, dodecenyl, tetradecenyl, myristyl, hexadecenoyl, palmitolyl, oleyl, elaidyl, eicosenyl, sorbyl, linoleyl, linolenyl, punicyl, arachidonyl and stearolyl radicals, and mixtures thereof; preferably, the radical R-CO-is the palmityl radical or the myristyl radical, and even more preferentially the palmityl radical.
The two-phase composition according to any one of Claims 2 and 11-12, wherein the lipophilic gelling agent presents in an amount of between 1%and 15%by weight, preferably from 2%to 10%by weight and more preferably from 3%to 8%by weight, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase.
The two-phase composition according to any one of Claims 1-13, further comprising in the aqueous phase and/or the fatty phase a cosmetic active agent chosen from enzymes; flavonoids; moisturizers; anti-inflammatory agents; vitamins; depigmenting agents; α-hydroxy acids; retinoids; antibacterial active agents; tensioning agents; ceramides; essential oils; UV-screening agents, and mixtures thereof.
The two-phase composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14, further comprising in the aqueous phase and/or the fatty phase a conventional cosmetic adjuvant or additive chosen from fragrances, preserving agents and bactericides, opacifiers, dyes, softeners, buffers, electrolytes, or pH regulators, and mixtures thereof.
A two-phase composition for topical application comprising:

a) an aqueous phase containing from 0.2%to 1.5%by weight of at least one polysaccharide chosen form gellan gum, xanthan gum and a mixture thereof, relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase; and

b) a fatty phase containing

from 70%to 90%by weight of oil chosen from C ₁₂-C ₁₅ alkyl benzoates, optionally hydroxylated triesters of a C ₂-C ₈ tricarboxylic acid and of a C ₂-C ₈ alcohol, and phenyl silicone oils not having a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (II) below:

wherein at least 3, at least 4 or at least 5 radicals R represent a phenyl radical, the remaining radical R represent methyls, and

from 3%to 8%by weight of at least one fatty acid ester of dextrin, relative to the total weight of the fatty phase, the at least one fatty acid ester of dextrin is chosen from monoesters or polyesters of dextrin and of at least one fatty acid, corresponding to formula (X) :

in which:

n is an integer ranging from 3 to 150;

the radicals R ₁, R ₂ and R ₃ represent a hydrogen atom or an acyl group (R-CO-) in which the radical R-CO-is chosen especially from caprylyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristyl, palmityl, stearyl, eicosanyl, docosanoyl, isovaleryl, 2-ethylbutyryl, ethylmethylacetyl, isoheptanyl, 2-ethylhexanyl, isononanyl, isodecanyl, isotridecanyl, isomyristyl, isopalmityl, isostearyl, isohexanyl, decenyl, dodecenyl, tetradecenyl, myristyl, hexadecenoyl, palmitoleyl, oleyl, elaidyl, eicosenyl, sorbyl, linoleyl, linolenyl, punicyl, arachidonyl and stearolyl radicals, with the proviso that at least one of said radicals R ₁, R ₂ or R ₃ is other than a hydrogen atom,

wherein the aqueous phase comprises a cosmetic active agent chosen from extracts of plants, and/or the fatty phase comprises a cosmetic active agent chosen from vitamins, extracts of plants and mixtures thereof;

Wherein the aqueous phase and the fatty phase are separate.
A composition in form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising:

a) a dispersed fatty phase containing at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or at least one phenyl silicone oil; and

b) a continuous aqueous phase containing at least one polysaccharide.
The composition according to claim 17, wherein the dispersed fatty phase is in form of a droplet with a median particle size by volume Dv50 from 0.01 mm to 10 mm, preferably from 0.05 mm to 5 mm.
A kit comprising

a) an oil composition exhibiting a viscosity between 25 and 5000 mPa·s at a temperature of 25℃ containing at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or at least one phenyl silicone oil; and

b) an aqueous composition containing at least one polysaccharide;

wherein the oil composition and the aqueous composition are capable of forming an oil-in-water emulsion upon mixing.
A process for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing make-up products from keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, comprising shaking the two-phase composition according to any one of claims 1-16 or the oil composition and the aqueous composition according to claim 19 together to form an oil-in-water emulsion and applying the emulsion to the keratin materials.
A process for caring for/making up/cleansing/removing make-up products from keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face, the lips and/or the eyes, comprising applying the composition in form of an oil-in-water emulsion according to claim 17 or 18 to the keratin materials.