WO2019185913A1 - Composition exfoliante anhydre comprenant des polyols en c3 à c10 et des polysaccharides - Google Patents

Composition exfoliante anhydre comprenant des polyols en c3 à c10 et des polysaccharides Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2019185913A1
WO2019185913A1 PCT/EP2019/058086 EP2019058086W WO2019185913A1 WO 2019185913 A1 WO2019185913 A1 WO 2019185913A1 EP 2019058086 W EP2019058086 W EP 2019058086W WO 2019185913 A1 WO2019185913 A1 WO 2019185913A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition according
gum
composition
polysaccharides
chosen
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2019/058086
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Virginie Puisset
Noémie PIOUD
Xavier Ray
Cyril Chevalier
Elodie VALVERDE
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2019185913A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019185913A1/fr

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/28—Rubbing or scrubbing compositions; Peeling or abrasive compositions; Containing exfoliants
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31—Anhydrous

Definitions

  • Anhydrous exfoliating composition comprising C 3 -C 10 polyols and polysaccharides
  • the subject of the present invention is an anhydrous composition
  • an anhydrous composition comprising exfoliating particles, at least one C3-C10 polyol and at least one hydrophilic gelling polymer chosen from polysaccharides, and also the use of said composition, in particular in the cosmetics field as an exfoliating composition for keratin materials such as the skin, in particular of the body and/or the face, and mucous membranes such as the lips.
  • Exfoliation is a care of the skin which consists in removing, by a mechanical rubbing action, the dead cells of the surface layers of the epidermis in order to improve the texture and the flesh tone thereof, in particular to render the skin smoother, to accelerate cell replacement of the skin and to improve the penetration of cosmetic active principles.
  • Exfoliating compositions can be aqueous or anhydrous; in addition, the exfoliating particles used can be of very diverse nature.
  • One of the objectives of the present invention is to provide a glycol-based and/or glycerol- based composition comprising exfoliating particles and which is stable over time and with respect to temperature, even with high contents of exfoliating particles, with a heating effect, attachment, very good rinsability and good scrubbing efficiency, and which has a viscosity suitable for it to be packaged in a tube or in a jar and for it to be easily taken up with a finger and also for it to be easily used, in particular easily spread.
  • composition according to the invention should exhibit satisfactory properties of homogeneity; in particular, the composition should not exhibit phase separation or deposition of the exfoliating particles at the bottom of the container.
  • composition should also be satisfactory visually and exhibit effective antimicrobial protection.
  • Patent application W02005/063198 already describes an anhydrous exfoliating composition for the skin comprising an emollient oil, an ionic surfactant, an exfoliating agent and a gelling agent for the composition; however, this patent application does not mention the use of the polyols used in the composition according to the invention.
  • natural compound is intended to mean a compound that is obtained directly from the earth or the soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, for instance milling, refining, distillation, purification or filtration.
  • compound of natural origin is intended to mean a natural compound that has undergone one or more additional chemical or industrial treatments, giving rise to modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of this compound and/or a compound predominantly comprising natural constituents that may or may not have undergone transformations as indicated above.
  • a subject of the present invention is thus a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, and more particularly a composition for scrubbing keratin materials such as the skin and the mucous membranes, comprising exfoliating particles, at least one C 3 -C 10 polyol and at least one hydrophilic gelling polymer chosen from polysaccharides, said composition comprising less than 5% by weight of water.
  • composition according to the present invention is stable over time and with respect to temperature even with high contents of exfoliating particles.
  • the term“stable” is intended to mean in particular stability on the macroscopic scale, no sedimentation of exfoliating particles being observed at the bottom of the tube or jar, nor any release of polyol at the surface after 2 months at ambient temperature and 45°C.
  • composition according to the present invention should in addition exhibit satisfactory properties of homogeneity; in particular, the composition does not exhibit phase separation or deposition of the exfoliating particles at the bottom of the container.
  • composition according to the invention is also visually very satisfactory. In particular it has a grained appearance and a pleasant texture.
  • the composition according to the invention also has a very advantageous cosmeticity for scrubbing products. It makes it possible to obtain attachment, that is to say drag and little glide, without adding fatty substances, in particular pasty and/or waxy fatty substances, which are difficult to stabilize. Furthermore, the composition according to the invention is easy to rinse off, with water, without the addition of surfactant. It also makes it possible to obtain a heating effect by virtue of the glycerol, a high scrubbing efficiency and very good adhesion to the skin.
  • the composition according to the invention can be used both for scrubbing the body and the face, and also for scrubbing the lips.
  • composition in accordance with the invention has a viscosity suitable for it to be packaged in a tube or jar and to be easily taken up with a finger and also to be easily used, in particular easily spread.
  • composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and thus contains a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • physiologically acceptable medium is intended to mean here a medium that is compatible with keratin materials.
  • keratin material is intended to mean in particular the skin, in particular the skin of the body or the face, the area around the eyes, the eyelids, and the mucous membranes such as the lips.
  • the texture of the composition according to the invention can be characterized by viscosity measurements.
  • the viscosity is generally measured at 25°C, using a Rheomat RM 180 viscometer with spindles suitable for the viscosity, in particular with a spindle No. 4, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle in the composition (after which time stabilization of the viscosity and of the speed of rotation of the spindle are observed), at a shear rate of 200 s 1 .
  • the composition has a thick texture when“taken up”, more particularly it has a viscosity greater than 50 Poises (or 5 Pa.s), preferably greater than 65 Poises (or 6.5 Pa.s), and preferentially greater than 80 Poises (or 8 Pa.s).
  • the composition has a viscosity ranging from 50 Poises (or 5 Pa.s) to 250 Poises (or 25 Pa.s), preferably from 65 Poises (or 6.5 Pa.s) to 200 Poises (or 20 Pa.s), and even more preferentially from 80 Poises (or 8 Pa.s) to 200 Poises (or 20 Pa.s).
  • composition according to the invention can also be characterized by penetrometry measurements.
  • this criterion is measured at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (1 atm).
  • the penetration force is determined by penetrometry, with a hemispherical tip (HS) having a diameter of 30 mm and at a compression speed of 0.5 mm/s.
  • the texture analysis measurements are carried out using a Tex’an Touch 50N or Tex’an 200 texturometer.
  • the spindle sinks into the sample at a constant speed of 0.5 mm/s, over a height of 10 mm (of diameter 40 to 50 mm, and height 30 mm, made of plastic or glass).
  • the force exerted on the piston is recorded and the average value of the force is calculated in g.
  • the threshold of detection of the product is 10 g and the relaxation time is 10 seconds.
  • the number of measurement points is 30 points and the reproducibility is performed on 3 measurements.
  • the composition has a penetrometry at a temperature of 25°C of between 20 g and 200 g, preferably between 30 g and 150 g.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one C3-C10 polyol.
  • Polyols are defined as being organic molecules comprising at least two hydroxyl (OH) functions.
  • polyol is intended to mean a linear, saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least two hydroxyl functions.
  • the hydrocarbon-based chain is an alkyl radical.
  • the polyol(s) present in the composition contain 2 or 3 hydroxyl functions, preferably 2.
  • the polyol(s) may be chosen from glycerol, propylene glycol or propane-1 ,2-diol, propane- 1 , 3-diol, pentane-1 ,2-diol, caprylyl glycol or octane-1 ,2-diol and decane-1 ,2-diol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polyol(s) comprise from 3 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • the polyol(s) are chosen from glycerol, propane-1 ,2-diol, propane-1 ,3-diol and pentane-1 ,2-diol, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferentially, the polyol(s) are chosen from glycerol, propane-1 ,2-diol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition comprises at least one C3-C10 polyol in a content ranging from 20% to 90% by weight, preferably ranging from 30% to 85% by weight, preferentially ranging from 35% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • polysaccharides is intended to mean a polymer constituted of sugar units.
  • sucrose unit is intended to mean an oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compound containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which includes at least 4 carbon atoms.
  • the sugar units may be optionally modified by substitution, and/or by oxidation and/or by dehydration.
  • sugar units that may be included in the composition of the polysaccharides of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose, galactose, arabinose, rhamnose, mannose, fucose, anhydrogalactose, galacturonic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, galactose sulfate, anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.
  • hydrophilic gelling polysaccharide is intended to mean any water-soluble or water-dispersible polysaccharide that is capable of giving a gelled solution after implementation with or without heating.
  • These gelling agents may be particulate or non-particulate.
  • polysaccharides may be divided into several categories.
  • the polysaccharides that are suitable for use in the invention may be homopolysaccharides such as fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans or heteropolysaccharides such as hemicellulose.
  • they may be linear polysaccharides such as pullulan or branched polysaccharides such as gum arabic and amylopectin, or mixed polysaccharides such as starch. More particularly, the polysaccharides that are suitable for use in the invention may be distinguished according to whether or not they are starchy. LA. Starchy polysaccharides
  • the starches that may be used in the present invention are more particularly macromolecules in the form of polymers constituted of elementary moieties which are anhydroglucose units (dextrose), linked via a(1 ,4) bonds of chemical formula (C6HioC>5) n .
  • the number of these moieties and their assembly make it possible to distinguish amylose, a molecule formed from about 600 to 1 ,000 linearly linked glucose molecules, and amylopectin, a polymer branched approximately every 25 glucose residues (a(1 ,6) bond).
  • the total chain may include between 10 000 and 100 000 glucose residues.
  • Starch is described in particular in Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology, 3rd edition, volume 21 , pages 492-507, Wiley Interscience, 1983.
  • amylose and of amylopectin vary as a function of the botanical origin of the starches.
  • a sample of native starch is constituted of about 25% amylose and 75% amylopectin.
  • phytoglycogen is present (between 0% and 20% of the starch), which is an analog of amylopectin but branched every 10 to 15 glucose residues.
  • Starch may be in the form of semicrystalline granules: amylopectin is organized in leaflets, amylose forms a less well organized amorphous zone between the various leaflets. Amylose is organized in a straight helix with six glucoses per turn. It dissociates into assimilable glucose under the action of enzymes, amylases, all the more easily when it is in amylopectin form. Specifically, the helical formation does not promote the accessibility of starch to the enzymes.
  • Starches are generally in the form of a white powder, which is insoluble in cold water, of which the elemental particle size ranges from 3 to 100 microns.
  • starch paste By treating it with hot water, starch paste is obtained. It is exploited in industry for its thickening and gelling properties.
  • the botanical origin of the starch molecules used in the present invention may be cereals or tubers.
  • the starches are chosen, for example, from corn starch, rice starch, cassava starch, tapioca starch, barley starch, potato starch, wheat starch, sorghum starch and pea starch.
  • the native starches are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names C * AmilogelTM, Cargill GelTM, C * GelTM, Cargill GumTM, DryGelTM and C * Pharm GelTM by the company Cargill, under the name Amidon de Mais by the company Roquette, and under the name Tapioca Pure by the company National Starch. Modified starches
  • modified starches used in the composition of the invention may be modified via one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, degradation (acid hydrolysis, oxidation, dextrinization), substitution (esterification, etherification), crosslinking (esterification), bleaching. More particularly, these reactions may be performed in the following manner:
  • Ci-C 6 acyl acetyl
  • C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl
  • carboxymethyl octenylsuccinic.
  • Monostarch phosphates (of the type St-0-P0-(0X) 2 ), distarch phosphates (of the type St- O-PO-(OX)-O-St) or even tristarch phosphates (of the type St-0-P0-(0-St) 2 ) or mixtures thereof may especially be obtained by crosslinking with phosphorus compounds.
  • X in particular denotes alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium), alkaline-earth metals (for example calcium or magnesium), ammonium salts, amine salts, for instance those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 3-amino-1 ,2-propanediol, or ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine or citrulline.
  • alkali metals for example sodium or potassium
  • alkaline-earth metals for example calcium or magnesium
  • ammonium salts for instance those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 3-amino-1 ,2-propanediol, or ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine or citrulline.
  • the phosphorus compounds may be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodium trimetaphosphate.
  • amphoteric starches these amphoteric starches containing one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups.
  • the anionic and cationic groups may be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; they are preferably linked to the same reactive site.
  • the anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type, preferably carboxylic.
  • the cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.
  • the amphoteric starches are in particular chosen from the compounds having the following formulae:
  • - St-O represents a starch molecule
  • - R which may be identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical
  • - R’ which may be identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl radical or a -COOH group
  • - n is an integer equal to 2 or 3;
  • - M which may be identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal such as Na, K, Li or NH 4 , a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine,
  • the starch molecules may be derived from any plant source of starch, especially such as corn, potato, oat, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. It is also possible to use the hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above.
  • the modified starches are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names C * Tex-lnstant (pregelatinized adipate), C * StabiTex-lnstant (pregelatinized phosphate), C * PolarTex-lnstant (pregelatinized hydroxypropyl), C * Set (acid hydrolysis, oxidation), C * size (oxidation), C * BatterCrisp (oxidation), C * DrySet (dextrinization), C * TexTM (acetyl distarch adipate), C * PolarTexTM (hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate), C * StabiTexTM (distarch phosphate, acetyl distarch phosphate) by the company Cargill, by distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate such as the product sold under the references Prejel VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate) or Prejel TK1 (gelatinized cass
  • Particulate starches that may be mentioned in particular include:
  • Ci-C 4 carboxyalkyl starches also referred to hereinbelow as carboxyalkyl starch. These compounds are obtained by grafting carboxyalkyl groups onto one or more alcohol functions of starch, especially by reaction of starch and of sodium monochloroacetate in alkaline medium.
  • the carboxyalkyl groups are generally attached via an ether function, more particularly to carbon 1.
  • the degree of substitution with carboxyalkyl units of the Ci-C 4 carboxyalkyl starch preferably ranges from 0.1 to 1 and more particularly from 0.15 to 0.5.
  • the degree of substitution is defined according to the present invention as being the mean number of hydroxyl groups substituted with an ester or ether group per monosaccharide unit of the polysaccharide.
  • the carboxyalkyl starches are advantageously used in the form of salts and especially of salts of alkali metals or alkaline-earth metals such as Na, K, Li, NH 4 , or salts of a quaternary ammonium or of an organic amine such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine or triethanolamine.
  • the (Ci-C 4 ) carboxyalkyl starches are advantageously, in the context of the present invention, carboxymethyl starches.
  • the caiboxymethyl starches preferably comprise units having the following formula:
  • X optionally covalently bonded to the carboxylic unit, denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal such as Na, K, Li, NH 4 , a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine, for instance monoethanolamine, diethanolamine or triethanolamine.
  • X denotes a cation Na + .
  • the carboxyalkyl starches that may be used according to the present invention are preferably non-pregelatinized carboxyalkyl starches.
  • the carboxyalkyl starches that may be used according to the present invention are preferably partially or totally crosslinked carboxyalkyl starches.
  • a crosslinked carboxyalkyl starch has, in contrast with a non-crosslinked carboxyalkyl starch, an increased, controllable viscosity of increased stability.
  • the crosslinking thus makes it possible to reduce the syneresis phenomena and to increase the resistance of the gel to shear effects.
  • the carboxyalkyl starches under consideration according to the invention are more particularly potato carboxyalkyl starches.
  • the carboxyalkyl starches that may be used according to the present invention are preferably sodium salts of carboxyalkyl starch, in particular a sodium salt of potato carboxymethyl starch, sold especially under the name Primojel ® by the company DMV International or Glycolys ® and Glycolys ® LV by the company Roquette.
  • the potato carboxymethyl starches sold especially under the name Glycolys ® by the company Roquette.
  • the C1-C4 carboxyalkyl starch particles are present in the compositions according to the invention in a swollen and non-split form.
  • This swelling may be characterized by a swelling power Q which may advantageously be between 10 and 30 ml/g and preferably between 15 and 25 ml (volume of absorbed liquid)/g of dry particulate material.
  • the size of the swollen carboxyalkyl starch particles used according to the present invention generally ranges from 25 to 300 pm.
  • the gel Primojel ® containing 10% by weight of potato carboxyalkyl starch and sodium salt in water contains more than 80% of swollen particles of this starch with a diameter of greater than 50 microns and more particularly greater than 100 microns.
  • these particles are used for the preparation of the compositions according to the invention, in this swollen particulate state.
  • these particles are advantageously used in the form of an aqueous gel either prepared beforehand or already commercially available.
  • the gels under consideration according to the invention are advantageously translucent.
  • a carboxymethyl starch gel such as Primojel ® which is at a concentration of 10% by weight may be adjusted to the required concentration before being used for preparing the expected composition.
  • Primojel ® which is at a concentration of 10% by weight may be adjusted to the required concentration before being used for preparing the expected composition.
  • the hydrophilic gelling agent is non-starchy.
  • non-starchy polysaccharides may be chosen from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae, and higher plant polysaccharides, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and derivatives thereof or fructosans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arabics, galactomannans, glucomannans and pectins, and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.
  • the polysaccharides may be chosen from fructans, gellans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, celluloses and derivatives thereof, in particular methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, alginate-based compounds, chitin, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabics, tragacanth gums, ghatti gums, karaya gums, locust bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and non-ionic derivatives
  • polysaccharides may be chemically modified, especially with urea or urethane groups or by hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfation, phosphatation, amination, amidation or alkylation reaction, or by several of these modifications.
  • the derivatives obtained may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.
  • the polysaccharides may be chosen from carrageenans, in particular kappa carrageenan, gellan gum, agar-agar, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, in particular sodium alginate, scleroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin and pullulan, and mixtures thereof.
  • the compounds of this type that may be used in the present invention are chosen from those described especially in Kirk-Othmer’s Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Third Edition, 1982, volume 3, pp. 896-900, and volume 15, pp. 439-458, in Polymers in Nature by E.A. McGregor and C.T. Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp. 240-328, 1980, in the book by Robert L. Davidson entitled Handbook of Water-Soluble Gums and Resins published by Me Graw Hill Book Company (1980) and in Industrial Gums - Polysaccharides and their Derivatives, edited by Roy L. Whistler, Second Edition, published by Academic Press Inc.
  • these polysaccharides that are suitable for use in the invention may be distinguished according to whether they are derived from microorganisms, from algae or from higher plants, and are detailed below. Polysaccharides produced by microorganisms
  • Xanthan is a heteropolysaccharide produced on an industrial scale by the aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Its structure is constituted of a main chain of b(1 ,4)-linked b-D-glucoses, similar to cellulose. One glucose molecule in two bears a trisaccharide side chain composed of an oD-mannose, a b-D-glucuronic acid and a terminal b-D-mannose. The internal mannose residue is generally acetylated on carbon 6. About 30% of the terminal mannose residues bear a pyruvate group linked in chelated form between carbons 4 and 6.
  • the charged pyruvic acids and glucuronic acids are ionizable, and are thus responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan (negative charge down to a pH equal to 1 ).
  • the content of the pyruvate and acetate residues varies according to the bacterial strain, the fermentation process, the conditions after fermentation and the purification steps. These groups may be neutralized in commercial products with Na + , K + or Ca 2+ ions (Satia company, 1986).
  • the neutralized form may be converted into the acid form by ion exchange or by dialysis of an acidic solution.
  • Xanthan gums have a molecular weight of between 1 000 000 and 50 000 000 and a viscosity of between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1 % of xanthan gum (measured at 25°C on a Brookfield viscometer of LVT type at 60 rpm).
  • Xanthan gums are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Rhodicare by the company Rhodia Chimie, under the name SatiaxaneTM by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries), under the name NovaxanTM by the company ADM, and under the names Kelzan ® and Keltrol ® by the company CP-Kelco.
  • Pullulan is a polysaccharide constituted of maltotriose units, known under the name a(1 ,4)- a(1 ,6)-glucan. Three glucose units in maltotriose are connected via an a(1 ,4) glycoside bond, whereas the consecutive maltotriose units are connected to each other via an a(1 ,6) glycoside bond.
  • Pullulan is produced, for example, under the reference Pullulan PF 20 by the group Hayashibara in Japan.
  • Dextran is a neutral polysaccharide not bearing any charged groups, which is biologically inert, prepared by fermentation of beet sugar containing solely hydroxyl groups. It is possible to obtain dextran fractions of different molecular weights from native dextran by hydrolysis and purification. Dextran may in particular be in the form of dextran sulfate. Dextran is represented, for example, by the products sold under the name Dextran or Dextran T by the company Pharmacosmos, or under the name Dextran 40 Powder or Dextran 70 Powder by the company Meito Sangyo Co. Dextran sulfate is sold by the company PK Chemical A/S under the name Dextran sulfate.
  • Succinoglycan is an extracellular polymer of high molecular weight produced by bacterial fermentation, constituted of octasaccharide repeating units (repetition of 8 sugars). Succinoglycans are sold, for example, under the name Rheozan by the company Rhodia.
  • Scleroglucan is a non-ionic branched homopolysaccharide constituted of b-D-glucan units.
  • the molecules are constituted of a linear main chain formed from D-glucose units linked via b(1 ,3) bonds and of which one in three is linked to a side D-glucose unit via a b(1 ,6) bond.
  • a more complete description of scleroglucans and of their preparation may be found in US 3 301 848.
  • Scleroglucan is sold, for example, under the name Amigel by the company Alban Muller, or under the name ActigumTM CS by the company Cargill.
  • Gellan gum is an anionic linear heteropolyoside based on oligoside units composed of 4 saccharides (tetra-oside). D-Glucose, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid in 2:1 :1 proportions are present in gellan gum in the form of monomer elements. It is sold, for example, under the name Kelcogel CG LA by the company CP Kelco.
  • the polysaccharide according to the invention may be a galactan chosen especially from agar and carrageenans.
  • Carrageenans are anionic polysaccharides constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the Gigartinacae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae and Polyideaceae families. They are generally obtained by hot aqueous extraction from natural strains of said algae.
  • These linear polymers, formed by disaccharide units are composed of two D-galactopyranose units linked alternately by a(1 ,3) and b(1 ,4) bonds.
  • Carrageenans are composed essentially of potassium, sodium, magnesium, triethanolamine and/or calcium salts and of polysaccharide sulfate esters. Carrageenans are sold especially by the company SEPPIC under the name Solagum ® , by the company Gelymar under the names Carragel ® , Carralact ® and Carrasol ® , by the company Cargill under the names SatiagelTM and SatiagumTM, and by the company CP-Kelco under the names Genulacta ® , Genugel ® and Genuvisco ® .
  • Galactans of agar type are galactose polysaccharides contained in the cell wall of some of these species of red algae (rhodophyceae). They are formed from a polymer group of which the base backbone is a b(1 ,3) D-galactopyranose and a(1 ,4) L 3-6 anhydrogalactose chain, these units repeating regularly and alternately. The differences within the agar family are due to the presence or absence of solvated methyl or carboxyethyl groups. These hybrid structures are generally present in variable percentage, depending on the species of algae and the harvest season.
  • Agar-agar is a mixture of polysaccharides (agarose and agaropectin) of high molecular weight, between 40 000 and 300 000 g.mol 1 . It is obtained by manufacturing algal extraction liquors, generally by autoclaving, and by treating these liquors which comprise about 2% of agar-agar, so as to extract the latter.
  • Agar is produced, for example, by the group B&V Agar Producers under the names Gold Agar, Agarite and Grand Agar by the company Hispanagar, and under the names Agar-Agar, QSA (Quick Soluble Agar), and Puragar by the company Setexam.
  • Furcellaran is obtained commercially from red algae Furcellaria fasztigiata. Furcellaran is produced, for example, by the company Est-Agar.
  • alginate-based compound is intended to mean alginic acid, alginic acid derivatives and salts of alginic acid (alginates) or of said derivatives.
  • the alginate-based compound is water-soluble.
  • Alginic acid a natural substance resulting from brown algae or certain bacteria, is a polyuronic acid composed of 2 uronic acids linked by 1 ,4-glycosidic bonds: b-D-manuronic (M) acid and a-L-glucuronic (G) acid.
  • Alginic acid is capable of forming water-soluble salts (alginates) with alkali metals such as sodium, potassium or lithium, substituted cations of lower amine and of ammonium such as methylamine, ethanolamine, diethanolamine or triethanolamine. These alginates are water-soluble in aqueous medium at a pH equal to 4, but dissociate into alginic acid at a pH below 4.
  • This (these) alginate-based compound(s) are capable of crosslinking in the presence of at least one crosslinking agent, by formation of ionic bonds between said alginate-based compound(s) and said crosslinking agent(s).
  • the formation of multiple crosslinks between several molecules of said alginate-based compound(s) leads to the formation of a water- insoluble gel.
  • Use is preferably made of alginate-based compounds with a weight-average molecular weight ranging from 10 000 to 1 000 000, preferably from 15 000 to 500 000 and better still from 20 000 to 250 000.
  • the alginate-based compound is alginic acid and/or a salt thereof.
  • the alginate-based compound is an alginate salt, and preferably sodium alginate.
  • the alginate-based compound may be chemically modified, especially with urea or urethane groups or by hydrolysis, oxidation, esterification, etherification, sulfatation, phosphatation, amination, amidation or alkylation reaction, or by several of these modifications.
  • the derivatives obtained may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.
  • alginate-based compounds that are suitable for use in the invention may be represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Kelcosol, SatialgineTM, CecalgumTM or AlgogelTM by the company Cargill Products, under the name ProtanalTM by the company FMC Biopolymer, under the name Grindsted ® Alginate by the company Danisco, under the name Kimica Algin by the company Kimica, and under the names Manucol ® and Manugel ® by the company ISP.
  • polysaccharides may be divided into homogeneous polysaccharides (only one saccharide species) and heterogeneous polysaccharides composed of several types of saccharides. a) Homogeneous polysaccharides and derivatives thereof
  • the polysaccharide according to the invention may be chosen from celluloses and derivatives or fructosans.
  • the polysaccharide according to the invention may also be a cellulose or a derivative thereof, especially cellulose ethers or esters (e.g.: methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylpropylcellulose, cellulose acetate, cellulose nitrate, nitrocellulose).
  • cellulose ethers or esters e.g.: methylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylpropylcellulose, cellulose acetate, cellulose nitrate, nitrocellulose.
  • the invention may also contain a cellulose-based associative polymer.
  • cellulose-based compound is intended to mean any polysaccharide compound bearing in its structure linear sequences of anhydroglucopyranose residues (AGU) linked together via b(1 ,4) glycoside bonds.
  • the repeating unit is the cellobiose dimer.
  • the AGUs are in chair conformation and bear 3 hydroxyl functions: 2 secondary alcohols (in position 2 and 3) and a primary alcohol (in position 6).
  • the polymers thus formed combine together via intermolecular bonds of hydrogen bond type, thus giving the cellulose a fibrillar structure (about 1500 molecules per fibre).
  • the degree of polymerization differs enormously depending on the origin of the cellulose; its value may range from a few hundred to several tens of thousands.
  • Cellulose has the following chemical structure:
  • the hydroxyl groups of cellulose may react partially or totally with various chemical reagents to give cellulose derivatives having intrinsic properties.
  • the cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic.
  • cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ester ethers are distinguished.
  • non-ionic cellulose ethers mention may be made of alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; and mixed hydroxyalkylalkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses.
  • anionic cellulose ethers mention may be made of carboxyalkylcelluloses and salts thereof. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethyl-celluloses and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and sodium salts thereof.
  • cationic cellulose ethers mention may be made of crosslinked or non-crosslinked quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses.
  • the quaternizing agent may in particular be glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride or a fatty amine such as laurylamine or stearylamine.
  • Another cationic cellulose ether that may be mentioned is hydroxyethylcellulosehydroxypropyltrimethylammonium.
  • the quaternized cellulose derivatives are, in particular:
  • - quaternized celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups including at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof;
  • - quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl or alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof.
  • the alkyl radicals borne by the above quaternized celluloses or hydroxyethylcelluloses preferably include from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
  • Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8-C30 fatty chains that may be indicated include the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (C18 alkyl) sold by the company Amerchol and the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C18 alkyl) sold by the company Croda.
  • - celluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain for instance hydroxyethylcelluloses modified with groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl groups, especially C8-C22 alkyl groups, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups, such as Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (C16 alkyls) sold by the company Aqualon, and
  • polyalkylene glycol alkylphenyl ether groups such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (nonylphenyl polyethylene glycol (15) ether) sold by the company Amerchol.
  • cellulose esters are mineral esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulfates, phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates and acetatetrimellitates, etc.), and mixed organic/mineral esters of cellulose, such as cellulose acetatebutyrate sulfates and cellulose acetatepropionate sulfates.
  • cellulose ester ethers mention may be made of hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.
  • the cellulose-based compounds of the invention may be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses and substituted celluloses.
  • the celluloses and derivatives are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Avicel ® (microcrystalline cellulose, MCC) by the company FMC Biopolymers, under the name Cekol (carboxymethylcellulose) by the company Noviant (CP-Kelco), under the name Akucell AF (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) by the company AkzoNobel, under the name MethocelTM (cellulose ethers) and EthocelTM (ethylcellulose) by the company Dow, and under the names Aqualon® (carboxymethylcellulose and sodium carboxymethylcellulose), Benecel® (methylcellulose), BlanoseTM (carboxymethylcellulose), Culminal® (methylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose), Klucel®
  • the polysaccharide according to the invention may especially be a fructosan chosen from inulin and derivatives thereof (especially dicarboxy and carboxymethyl inulins).
  • Fructans or fructosans are oligosaccharides or polysaccharides comprising a sequence of anhydrofructose units optionally combined with several saccharide residues other than fructose.
  • Fructans may be linear or branched.
  • Fructans may be products obtained directly from a plant or microbial source or alternatively products of which the chain length has been modified (increased or decreased) by fractionation, synthesis or hydrolysis, in particular enzymatic.
  • Fructans generally have a degree of polymerization from 2 to about 1 ,000 and preferably from 2 to about 60.
  • Three groups of fructans are distinguished. The first group corresponds to products of which the fructose units are for the most part linked via b(2,1 ) bonds. These are essentially linear fructans such as inulins.
  • the second group also corresponds to linearfructoses, but the fructose units are essentially linked via b(2,6) bonds. These products are levans.
  • the third group corresponds to mixed fructans, i.e. containing b(2,6) and b(2,1 ) sequences. These are essentially branched fructans, such as graminans.
  • the preferred fructans in the compositions according to the invention are inulins. Inulin may be obtained, for example, from chicory, dahlia or Jerusalem artichoke, preferably from chicory.
  • the polysaccharide especially the inulin, has a degree of polymerization from 2 to about 1 ,000 and preferably from 2 to about 60, and a degree of substitution of less than 2 on the basis of one fructose unit.
  • the inulin used for this invention is represented, for example, by the products sold under the name BeneoTM inulin by the company Orafti, and under the name Frutafit ® by the company Sensus. b) Heterogeneous polysaccharides and derivatives thereof
  • the polysaccharides that may be used according to the invention may be gums, for instance cassia gum, karaya gum, konjac gum, gum tragacanth, tara gum, acacia gum or gum arabic.
  • Gum arabic may be gums, for instance cassia gum, karaya gum, konjac gum, gum tragacanth, tara gum, acacia gum or gum arabic.
  • Gum arabic is a highly branched acidic polysaccharide which is in the form of mixtures of potassium, magnesium and calcium salts.
  • the monomer elements of the free acid (arabic acid) are D-galactose, L-arabinose, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid.
  • Galactomannans guar, locust bean, fenugreek, tara gum
  • derivatives guar phosphate, hydroxypropyl guar, etc.
  • Galactomannans are non-ionic polyosides extracted from the endosperm of leguminous seeds, of which they constitute the storage carbohydrate.
  • Galactomannans are macromolecules constituted of a main chain of b(1 ,4) linked D-mannopyranose units, bearing side branches constituted of a single D-galactopyranose unit a(1 ,6) linked to the main chain.
  • the various galactomannans differ, firstly, by the proportion of a-D- galactopyranose units present in the polymer, and secondly by significant differences in terms of distribution of galactose units along the mannose chain.
  • the mannose/galactose (M/G) ratio is about 2 for guar gum, 3 for tara gum and 4 for locust bean gum.
  • Galactomannans have the following chemical structure:
  • Guar gum is characterized by a mannose/galactose ratio of the order of 2/1.
  • the galactose group is regularly distributed along the mannose chain.
  • the guar gums that may be used according to the invention may be non-ionic, cationic or anionic. According to the invention, use may be made of chemically modified or unmodified non-ionic guar gums.
  • the unmodified non-ionic guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the names Vidogum GH, Vidogum G and Vidocrem by the company Unipektin and under the name Jaguar by the company Rhodia, under the name Meypro ® Guar by the company Danisco, under the name ViscogumTM by the company Cargill, and under the name Supercol ® guar gum by the company Aqualon.
  • hydrolyzed non-ionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention are represented, for example, by the products sold under the name Meyprodor ® by the company Danisco.
  • modified non-ionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention are preferably modified with C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl groups, among which mention may be made, for example, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.
  • non-ionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are sold, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP 60, Jaguar HP 105 and Jaguar HP 120 (hydroxypropyl guar) by the company Rhodia or under the name N-Hance ® HP (hydroxypropyl guar) by the company Aqualon.
  • the cationic galactomannan gums preferably have a cationic charge density of less than or equal to 1 .5 meq./g, more particularly between 0.1 and 1 meq./g.
  • the charge density may be determined by the Kjeldahl method. It generally corresponds to a pH of the order of 3 to 9.
  • cationic galactomannan gum is intended to mean any galactomannan gum containing cationic groups and/or groups that can be ionized into cationic groups.
  • the preferred cationic groups are chosen from those comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups.
  • the cationic galactomannan gums used generally have a weight-average molecular weight of between 500 and 5 c 10 6 approximately and preferably between 10 3 and 3 c 10 6 approximately.
  • the cationic galactomannan gums that may be used according to the present invention are, for example, gums comprising tri(Ci-C4)alkylammonium cationic groups. Preferably, 2% to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of these gums bear trialkylammonium cationic groups.
  • these groups represent from 5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified galactomannan gum.
  • the cationic galactomannan gum is preferably a guar gum comprising hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium groups, i.e. a guar gum modified, for example, with 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride.
  • galactomannan gums in particular guar gums modified with cationic groups
  • products already known per se are, for example, described in patents US 3 589 578 and US 4 031 307.
  • Such products are moreover sold especially under the trade names Jaguar Excel, Jaguar C13 S, Jaguar C 15, Jaguar C 17 and Jaguar C162 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Rhodia, under the name Amilan ® Guar (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Degussa, and under the name N- Hance ® 3000 (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) by the company Aqualon.
  • the anionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention are polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic, sulfenic, phosphoric, phosphonic or pyruvic acid.
  • the anionic group is preferably a carboxylic acid group.
  • the anionic group may also be in the form of an acid salt, especially a sodium, calcium, lithium or potassium salt.
  • anionic guar gums that may be used according to the invention are preferentially carboxymethyl guar derivatives (carboxymethyl guar or carboxymethyl hydroxypropyl guar).
  • Locust bean gum is extracted from the seeds of the locust bean tree ( Ceratonia siliqua).
  • the unmodified locust bean gum that may be used in this invention is sold, for example, under the name ViscogumTM by the company Cargill, under the name Vidogum L by the company Unipektin and under the name Grinsted ® LBG by the company Danisco.
  • the chemically modified locust bean gums that may be used in this invention may be represented, for example, by the cationic locust beans sold under the name Catinal CLB (locust bean hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride) by the company Toho.
  • the tara gum that may be used in the context of this invention is sold, for example, under the name Vidogum SP by the company Unipektin.
  • Glucomannan is a polysaccharide of high molecular weight (500 000 ⁇ Mglucomannan ⁇ 2 000 000) composed of D-mannose and D-glucose units with a branch every 50 or 60 units approximately. It is found in wood, but is also the main constituent of konjac gum. Konjac ( Amorphophallus konjac) is a plant of the Araceae family.
  • Pectins are linear polymers of a-D-galacturonic acid (at least 65%) linked in positions 1 and 4 with a certain proportion of carboxylic groups esterified with a methanol group. About 20% of the sugars constituting the pectin molecule are neutral sugars (L-rhamnose, D-glucose, D-galactose, L-arabinose, D-xylose). L-Rhamnose residues are found in all pectins, incorporated into the main chain in positions 1 ,2.
  • Uronic acid molecules bear carboxyl functions. This function gives pectins the capacity for exchanging ions, when they are in COO form. Divalent ions (in particular calcium) have the capacity of forming ionic bridges between two carboxyl groups of two different pectin molecules.
  • a certain proportion of the carboxylic groups are esterified with a methanol group.
  • the natural degree of esterification of a pectin may range between 70% (apple, lemon) and 10% (strawberry) depending on the source used.
  • pectins with a high degree of esterification it is possible to hydrolyze the -COOCH 3 groups, so as to obtain weakly esterified pectins.
  • the chain is thus more or less acidic.
  • HM (high-methoxy) pectins are thus defined as having a degree of esterification of greater than 50%
  • LM (low-methoxy) pectins are defined as having a degree of esterification of less than 50%.
  • the -OCH 3 group is substituted with an -NH 2 group.
  • Pectins are especially sold by the company Cargill under the name UnipectineTM, by the company CP-Kelco under the name Genu, and by Danisco under the name Grinsted Pectin.
  • chitin poly-N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, b(1 ,4)-2-acetamido-2-deoxy-D- glucose
  • chitosan and derivatives chitosan-beta-glycerophosphate, carboxymethylchitin, etc.
  • GAG glycosaminoglycans
  • xylans or arabinoxylans
  • Arabinoxylans are polymers of xylose and arabinose, all grouped under the name pentosans.
  • Xylans are constituted of a main chain of b(1 ,4) linked D-xylose units and on which are found three substituents (Rouau & Thibault, 1987): acid units, a-L-arabinofuranose units, side chains which may contain arabinose, xylose, galactose and glucuronic acid.
  • the polysaccharide is preferably hyaluronic acid, or a salt thereof such as the sodium salt (sodium hyaluronate).
  • the polysaccharide(s) used in the context of the invention can be chosen alone as a mixture.
  • the polysaccharide(s) are chosen from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms or microbial gums such as xanthan gum, gellan gum and scleroglucan gum; polysaccharides of higher plants, such as modified or unmodified guar gums, and in particular guar gums modified with C 1 -C 6 (poly) hydroxyalkyl groups; particulate starches, in particular potato carboxymethyl starches; alone or as mixtures.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polysaccharide chosen from microbial gums such as xanthan gum, gellan gum and scleroglucan gum, preferably from xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum.
  • microbial gums such as xanthan gum, gellan gum and scleroglucan gum, preferably from xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum.
  • composition according to the invention can for example comprise, by way of polysaccharides, scleroglucan gum alone or in combination with xantham gum.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polysaccharide chosen from microbial gums such as xanthan gum, gellan gum and scleroglucan gum, preferably from xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum, and at least one polysaccharide chosen from guar gums modified with C 1 -C 6 (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups.
  • composition according to the invention can comprise, by way of polysaccharides, scleroglucan gum and hydroxypropyl guar.
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise, by way of polysaccharides, scleroglucan gum, xanthan gum and hydroxypropyl guar.
  • composition according to the invention comprise at least one polysaccharide chosen from particulate starches, in particular modified carboxymethyl starches.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polysaccharide chosen from microbial gums such as xanthan gum, gellan gum and scleroglucan gum, preferably from xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum, and at least one polysaccharide chosen from particulate starches, in particular modified carboxymethyl starches.
  • microbial gums such as xanthan gum, gellan gum and scleroglucan gum, preferably from xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum
  • particulate starches in particular modified carboxymethyl starches.
  • composition according to the invention can thus comprise, by way of polysaccharides, scleroglucan gum and carboxymethyl starch.
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise, by way of polysaccharides, xanthan gum and carboxymethyl starch.
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise, by way of polysaccharides, scleroglucan gum, xanthan gum and carboxymethyl starch.
  • the polysaccharide(s) are present in the composition in accordance with the invention in an amount of between 0.01 % and 10% by weight, preferably between 0.01 % and 5% by weight and even more preferentially between 0.1 % and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises exfoliating particles capable of resulting in a scrubbing of the skin.
  • Use may be made, as exfoliating particles, of exfoliating or scrubbing particles of mineral, plant or organic origins. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin.
  • the average particle size of these exfoliating particles may be between 150 microns and 3000 microns.
  • the average particle size of these exfoliating particles may be between 150 microns and 800 microns, preferably between 300 and 600 microns, and even more preferentially 500 microns.
  • the average particle size of these exfoliating particles may be between 300 microns and 3000 microns, preferably between 600 and 2000, and even more preferentially 1000 microns.
  • Use may be made of particles of sugars, such as particles of saccharose, of sucrose, of fructose, of glucose, of galactose or of maltose and preferably of saccharose, of sucrose.
  • Use may also be made, for example of perlite beads or powder, such as those sold under the name Imercare 270P-Scrub or Imercare 400P-Scrub or Imercare 800P-Scrub by the company Imerys.
  • polyamide (Nylon®) particles such as those sold by Arkema under the name Orgasol 2002 Exd Nat Cos
  • fibres such as polyamide fibres, such as those sold by Utexbel under the name Pulpe Polyamide 12185 Taille 0.3 mm
  • polyvinyl chloride powder pumice stone (INCI name: pumice), such as pumice 3/B from Eyraud
  • ground shells of fruit kernels such as ground apricot kernels or walnut shells
  • sawdust sand
  • loofah powder glass beads
  • alumina (aluminum oxide) such as the product sold under the name Dermagrain 900 by the company Marketech International
  • jojoba beads such as the product Florabeads Jojoba 28/60 Lapis sold by the company Desert Whale (Vantage Spec. Chem.)
  • argan powder such as the product Argan Powder 300-800 sold by the company Greentech; and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the invention can also contain, as exfoliating agent, salts of NaCI type, more particularly sea salts, such as Dead Sea salt or Camargue salt.
  • salts of NaCI type more particularly sea salts, such as Dead Sea salt or Camargue salt.
  • Use is preferably made of particles of sugars, in particular of saccharose, of sucrose.
  • These exfoliating particles can be present in an amount ranging, for example, from 1 % to 60% by weight, preferably from 10% to 50% by weight and better still from 20% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention is anhydrous, that is to say that it comprises less than 5% by weight of water, preferably less than 4% by weight.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one oil.
  • oil is intended to mean a fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C).
  • the oil(s) that may be used in the context of the invention can be chosen from hydrocarbon- based oils, silicone oils, fluoro or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • They may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • silicon oil is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one Si-0 group.
  • fluoro o/7 is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • hydrocarbon-based oif is intended to mean an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.
  • the oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.
  • non-volatile oil is intended to mean an oil with a vapour pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.
  • volatile oif is intended to mean any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a nonzero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
  • Volatile oils are volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a nonzero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10
  • the volatile oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils or silicone oils.
  • volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms mention may be made in particular of branched Cs-Ci 6 alkanes, for instance Cs-Ci 6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched Cs-C- esters, for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Cs-Ci 6 alkanes for instance Cs-Ci 6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched Cs-C- esters, for instance isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is selected from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, in particular from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and is in particular isohexadecane.
  • n-dodecane C12
  • n-tetradecane C14
  • the undecane- tridecane mixture mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155 059 from the company Cogni
  • Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.
  • Volatile cyclic silicone oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.
  • the non-volatile oils may be chosen especially from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based, fluoro and/or silicone oils.
  • Non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include:
  • R1COOR2 oils having formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is in particular branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R1 + R2 is > 10.
  • the esters may be chosen especially from fatty acid alcohol esters, for instance cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters such as isopropyl myristate or isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2- ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate or octyl hydroxystearate, alcohol or polyalcohol ricinoleates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate or isotridecyl neopentanoate, and isononanoic acid esters, such as isononyl isononanoate or isotridecyl isononanoate, polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such
  • - fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance 2- octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol,
  • C12-C22 higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof,
  • nonphenyl silicone oils for instance caprylyl methicone, and
  • phenyl silicone oils for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyl trimethicone with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, and trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; and also mixtures of these various oils.
  • the amount of oil(s) can range from 0.005% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01 % to 30% by weight, better still from 0.01 % to 20%.
  • composition can also comprise one or more solid fatty substances, such as waxes or pasty fatty substances.
  • composition according to the invention comprises solid fatty substances
  • the latter may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 10% by weight and in particular from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition does not comprise any fatty phase.
  • composition according to the invention can also comprise the ingredients normal in cosmetics, such as antioxidants, fragrances or preservatives.
  • the composition according to the invention is a cosmetic composition intended to be applied to the skin and to be subsequently rinsed off, preferably with water.
  • composition according to the invention may be in the form of an exfoliating or scrubbing composition for the skin, in particular of the body and/or the face, and for mucous membranes such as the lips.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention may in particular be in the form of a scrub for the skin, in particular of the body and/or the face, and for mucous membranes such as the lips.
  • a process for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, in particular of the body and/or the face, and mucous membranes such as the lips comprises a step of applying a cosmetic composition according to the invention, preferably followed by a step of rinsing off said composition, preferentially with water.
  • the amount of composition to be applied to the skin can be determined as a function of the area to be treated and of the desired intensity of the treatment.
  • the composition is advantageously massaged on the skin so that the exfoliating particles carry out an exfoliation (or scrubbing) of the skin by rubbing over the surface layers of the epidermis.
  • the massaging of the skin can last from 1 minute to 10 minutes.
  • the application stage generally comprising the massaging, can last from 1 minute to 1 hour, it being possible for the composition to be left in contact with the skin as in the case of a mask.
  • the composition is generally rinsed off, typically with water, or else is wiped off.
  • Another subject of the invention is a process for the preparation of the composition described above, comprising a step of mixing the C3-C10 polyols and the polysaccharides, preferably by heating between 60 and 90°C, then a step of adding the exfoliating particles, and finally a step of cooling to ambient temperature.
  • compositions described in the examples below are prepared using the VMI Rayneri instrument according to the following procedure:
  • the mixture of polyols + polysaccharides (+ water where appropriate) is heated in a water bath at 75°C with a rotor/stator turbine (900 rpm) for 1 h 30.
  • the homogeneity and conformity of the gel is verified microscopically (under microscope) and macroscopically (with the naked eye).
  • composition is subsequently cooled to 30°C, then the exfoliants are added with weak stirring in a deflocculating device (200 rpm).
  • compositions The stability of each of the compositions was evaluated with the naked eye after storage for two months at ambient temperature, 45°C, 4°C and 40°C.
  • the scrubbing effect of the formulae is studied on dry to very dry lips, using a panel constituted of 7 individuals, with image acquisition by chromosphere at TO and T30 seconds after application of the formula, in a proportion of one small knob, on the lips.
  • Chromasphere ® evaluation makes it possible to evaluate the visibility of imperfections associated with desquamation of the skin and also on the homogeneity and colour of the lips.
  • Chromasphere® is an imaging platform for acquiring, under diffuse daylight illumination, calibrated colour images (profile).
  • the lips are then rinsed with warm water until all the remaining product has been removed.
  • the lips are dried with a handkerchief, by dabbing.
  • An image of the lips initially taken on 7 subjects is taken by the head technician.
  • composition R an effect visible to the naked eye on the appearance of the lips, which are less white, and less damaged, at T30 seconds, after application of the formula, is observed on the chromosphere photos. Moreover, all of the compositions tested make it possible to obtain attachment without adding fatty substances. Furthermore, these compositions are easy to rinse off, with water, without the addition of surfactant. They also make it possible to obtain a heating effect by virtue of the glycerol, a high scrubbing efficiency and very good adhesion to the skin.

Abstract

La présente invention a pour objet une composition anhydre comprenant des particules exfoliantes, au moins un polyol en C3 à C10 et au moins un polymère gélifiant hydrophile choisi parmi les polysaccharides. L'invention concerne également l'utilisation de ladite composition, en particulier dans le domaine cosmétique en tant que composition exfoliante pour des matières kératiniques telles que la peau, en particulier du corps et/ou du visage, et des muqueuses telles que les lèvres. La composition selon l'invention présente une cosméticité très avantageuse pour des produits exfoliants. Elle permet d'obtenir une fixation sans ajout de corps gras, en particulier de corps gras pâteux et/ou cireux, qui sont difficiles à stabiliser. En outre, la composition selon l'invention est facile à rincer, avec de l'eau, sans ajout de tensioactif. Elle permet également d'obtenir un effet chauffant grâce au glycérol, une efficacité d'exfoliation élevée et une très bonne adhérence à la peau.
PCT/EP2019/058086 2018-03-30 2019-03-29 Composition exfoliante anhydre comprenant des polyols en c3 à c10 et des polysaccharides WO2019185913A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1852844 2018-03-30
FR1852844A FR3079418B1 (fr) 2018-03-30 2018-03-30 Composition exfoliante anhydre comprenant des polyols en c3-c10 et des polysaccharides

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2019185913A1 true WO2019185913A1 (fr) 2019-10-03

Family

ID=62873477

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2019/058086 WO2019185913A1 (fr) 2018-03-30 2019-03-29 Composition exfoliante anhydre comprenant des polyols en c3 à c10 et des polysaccharides

Country Status (2)

Country Link
FR (1) FR3079418B1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2019185913A1 (fr)

Citations (12)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3301848A (en) 1962-10-30 1967-01-31 Pillsbury Co Polysaccharides and methods for production thereof
US3589578A (en) 1968-01-20 1971-06-29 Monforts Fa A Tension-relieving device for stretchable sheet material
US4017460A (en) 1975-12-10 1977-04-12 National Starch And Chemical Corporation Novel starch ethers
US4031307A (en) 1976-05-03 1977-06-21 Celanese Corporation Cationic polygalactomannan compositions
US5455340A (en) 1994-02-02 1995-10-03 National Starch And Chemical Investment Holding Corporation Starches modified with amino-multicarboxylates
WO1996034608A1 (fr) * 1995-05-01 1996-11-07 Colgate-Palmolive Company Composition de lubrification orale contenant un beta-glucane
WO2005063198A1 (fr) 2003-12-19 2005-07-14 Colgate-Palmolive Company Composition anhydre de nettoyage et de purification de la peau
WO2008155059A2 (fr) 2007-06-19 2008-12-24 Cognis Ip Management Gmbh Mélanges d'hydrocarbures et leur utilisation
US20090151087A1 (en) * 2007-06-29 2009-06-18 Maud Mario Anhydrous composition comprising at least one oxidation dye, at least one complex of hydrogen peroxide, and a specific polymer, and a coloring process using the same
EP2322135A1 (fr) * 2009-11-13 2011-05-18 L'Oréal Composition cosmétique comprenant un agent structurant, un agent absorbant et un tensioactif pour application sur les matières kératiniques
WO2013033090A1 (fr) * 2011-09-01 2013-03-07 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions de soins par voie orale avec rhéologie améliorée
WO2016094246A1 (fr) * 2014-12-11 2016-06-16 Mary Key Inc. Exfoliant au sucre à base de gel

Patent Citations (12)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US3301848A (en) 1962-10-30 1967-01-31 Pillsbury Co Polysaccharides and methods for production thereof
US3589578A (en) 1968-01-20 1971-06-29 Monforts Fa A Tension-relieving device for stretchable sheet material
US4017460A (en) 1975-12-10 1977-04-12 National Starch And Chemical Corporation Novel starch ethers
US4031307A (en) 1976-05-03 1977-06-21 Celanese Corporation Cationic polygalactomannan compositions
US5455340A (en) 1994-02-02 1995-10-03 National Starch And Chemical Investment Holding Corporation Starches modified with amino-multicarboxylates
WO1996034608A1 (fr) * 1995-05-01 1996-11-07 Colgate-Palmolive Company Composition de lubrification orale contenant un beta-glucane
WO2005063198A1 (fr) 2003-12-19 2005-07-14 Colgate-Palmolive Company Composition anhydre de nettoyage et de purification de la peau
WO2008155059A2 (fr) 2007-06-19 2008-12-24 Cognis Ip Management Gmbh Mélanges d'hydrocarbures et leur utilisation
US20090151087A1 (en) * 2007-06-29 2009-06-18 Maud Mario Anhydrous composition comprising at least one oxidation dye, at least one complex of hydrogen peroxide, and a specific polymer, and a coloring process using the same
EP2322135A1 (fr) * 2009-11-13 2011-05-18 L'Oréal Composition cosmétique comprenant un agent structurant, un agent absorbant et un tensioactif pour application sur les matières kératiniques
WO2013033090A1 (fr) * 2011-09-01 2013-03-07 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions de soins par voie orale avec rhéologie améliorée
WO2016094246A1 (fr) * 2014-12-11 2016-06-16 Mary Key Inc. Exfoliant au sucre à base de gel

Non-Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
"Industrial Gums - Polysaccharides and their Derivatives", ACADEMIC PRESS INC.
"Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopaedia of Chemical Technology", vol. 21, 1983, WILEY INTERSCIENCE, pages: 492 - 507
"KIRK-OTHMER'S ENCYCLOPEDIA OF CHEMICAL TECHNOLOGY", vol. 15, pages: 439 - 458
"Kirk-Othmer's Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", vol. 3, 1982, pages: 896 - 900
COSMETICS AND TOILETRIES MAGAZINE, vol. 120, no. 9, 2005, pages 10
E.A. MCGREGOR; C.T. GREENWOOD: "Polymers in Nature", 1980, JOHN WILEY & SONS, pages: 240 - 328
ROBERT L. DAVIDSON: "Handbook of Water-Soluble Gums and Resins", 1980, MC GRAW HILL BOOK COMPANY

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR3079418A1 (fr) 2019-10-04
FR3079418B1 (fr) 2020-06-26

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
US20200138680A1 (en) Gel-type cosmetic composition
US10398631B2 (en) Gel-type cosmetic composition
WO2019047954A1 (fr) Kit de soin de la peau
WO2020001069A1 (fr) Kit de soins de la peau
CN113194908B (zh) 用于护理皮肤的套装
WO2020093206A1 (fr) Kit de soins de la peau
FR3028758A1 (fr) Composition cosmetique de type gel/gel comprenant un phyllosilicate synthetique
CN113194906B (zh) 用于皮肤护理的试剂盒
FR2940111A1 (fr) Kit de revetement des matieres keratiniques comprenant un polysaccharide et un agent de complexation ionique ou dative
WO2019185915A1 (fr) Gel aqueux moussant comprenant un amidon modifié et un polysaccharide non amylacé
WO2020181405A1 (fr) Trousse pour le soin de la peau
WO2020133308A1 (fr) Kit de soins de la peau
WO2019002307A1 (fr) Composition gel-gel comprenant une cire à l'état cristallin
WO2019185913A1 (fr) Composition exfoliante anhydre comprenant des polyols en c3 à c10 et des polysaccharides
FR2940115A1 (fr) Kit de revetement des matieres keratiniques comprenant un polysaccharide et un agent de reticulation chimique
WO2021217560A1 (fr) Trousse de soin de la peau
WO2021245081A1 (fr) Composition comprenant au moins trois types de polysaccharides, au moins un composé pâteux d'origine végétale et de l'eau
FR3023476A1 (fr) Composition solide aqueuse contenant un sel d'acide gras, un polyol et un gelifiant hydrophile
WO2018153763A1 (fr) Composition cosmétique multi-phase et procédé de traitement cosmétique

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
121 Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application

Ref document number: 19714657

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1

122 Ep: pct application non-entry in european phase

Ref document number: 19714657

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1