WO2019158652A1

WO2019158652A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological composition, and method for moisturising skin

Info

Publication number: WO2019158652A1
Application number: PCT/EP2019/053693
Authority: WO
Inventors: Christian Sanchez
Original assignee: Danstar Ferment Ag
Priority date: 2018-02-14
Filing date: 2019-02-14
Publication date: 2019-08-22

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition for moisturising skin, and to a method for improving moisturisation of the skin using a cosmetic or dermatological composition.

Description

Cosmetic or dermatological composition and

method for skin hydration

The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition intended for cutaneous hydration and a method for improving cutaneous hydration using a cosmetic or dermatological composition.

State of the art

It is known in the art that one can not hydrate by bringing water to the surface of the skin. The only way to hydrate your skin is to drink enough and stop the insensible loss of water on the surface of the skin, so as to keep it in the tissues. There are two ways of curbing insensitive water loss: a) depositing on the surface of the skin low molecular weight hygroscopic molecules that will penetrate the upper layers of the epidermis and retain water in the tissues. Some of these molecules have the capacity to retain up to 200 times their volume in water (example: hyaluronic acid); or b) depositing a hydrophobic product at the surface so as to limit the water insensitive loss.

In the case of a hygroscopic product, the hydrating capacity is measurable in the first hour whereas in the case of a hydrophobic product the hydration is measured after several hours of contact and after accumulation of differential between the intrinsic loss and the loss. diminished.

The document EP 1 132 074 discloses a cosmetic composition comprising a protease of vegetable, animal or fungal origin, in association with a culture supernatant of lactic acid bacteria. The enzymatic action of the proteases of the cosmetic composition breaks down the old pigmented cells of the skin, so as to be able to remove the chloasmas, freckles or age spots (solar lentigo). The lactic acid bacterial culture supernatant would act as a buffer to control enzymatic activity. Glycerine (hygroscopic product) is added to this composition to slow down the insensitive loss of water. Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition intended for cutaneous hydration, the cosmetic or dermatological composition consisting essentially of a culture supernatant of Lactobacillus sp and acceptable excipients in cosmetics, preferably the culture supernatant of Lactobacillus sp is a supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus.

According to a particular embodiment, the culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus is in a concentration ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, preferably in a concentration ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, more preferably in a concentration ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, still more preferably in a concentration ranging from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. According to one embodiment, Lactobacillus helveticus is chosen from:

a Lactobacillus helveticus HA-128 (registered in the BCCM collection under the reference LMG S-24804),

a Lactobacillus helveticus HA-501 (registered in the National Collection of Microorganism Cultures of the Institut Pasteur under the reference CNCM 1-1772),

a Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 (registered under the reference CNCM I-1772), the strain sold under the name HA-501 also being marketed under the name R0052;

a Lactobacillus helveticus Lafti L10 R0419 (registered in the CBS collection under reference 116411) or

- a mixture of these.

According to a preferred embodiment, Lactobacillus helveticus is a Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 (CNCM 1-1772).

The present invention also relates to a method for moisturizing the skin, the method comprises the topical application to the skin of a cosmetic or dermatological composition consisting essentially of a culture supernatant of Lactobacillus sp and acceptable excipients in cosmetics, preferably the Culture supernatant of Lactobacillus sp is a culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus. According to one embodiment, the culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus is in a concentration ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, preferably in a concentration ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to total weight of the cosmetic composition, more preferably in a concentration ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, still more preferably in a concentration ranging from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. According to one embodiment, Lactobacillus helveticus is a Lactobacillus helveticus HA-128 (BCCM LMG S-24804), a Lactobacillus helveticus HA-501 (CNCM 1-1772), a Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 (CNCM 1-1772) or a Lactobacillus helveticus Lafti L10 R0419 (CBS 116411) or a mixture thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, Lactobacillus helveticus is a Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 (CNCM 1-1772). According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition is intended for topical use. Alternatively, the cosmetic composition is intended for oral administration, or for administration by air.

The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological products comprising a cosmetic or dermatological composition consisting essentially of a culture supernatant of Lactobacillus sp and acceptable excipients in cosmetics, preferably the culture supernatant of Lactobacillus sp is a culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus. According to one embodiment, Lactobacillus helveticus is a Lactobacillus helveticus HA-128 (BCCM LMG S-24804), a Lactobacillus helveticus HA-501 (CNCM 1-1772), a Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 (CNCM 1-1772) or a Lactobacillus helveticus Lafti L10 R0419 (CBS 116411) or a mixture thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, Lactobacillus helveticus is a Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 (CNCM I-1772). According to another embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological product is a cleaning cream; a protective cream; a treatment or treatment cream for the face, for the hands, for the feet, for the great anatomical folds or for the body; a makeup product; a lotions, a gel or a mousse for the care of the skin; an anti-sun lotion, a lotion artificial tanning, a bath composition, a deodorant composition containing a bactericidal agent, an aftershave gel or lotions, an epilatory cream, an insect bites composition; a soap; a cleaning roll, shampoos or shower gels.

The present invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic or dermatological composition consisting essentially of a culture supernatant of Lactobacillus sp and acceptable excipients in cosmetics, for cutaneous hydration, preferably the culture supernatant of Lactobacillus sp is a supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus. According to one embodiment, the culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus is in a concentration ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, preferably in a concentration ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to total weight of the cosmetic composition, more preferably in a concentration ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, still more preferably in a concentration ranging from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition cosmetic. According to another embodiment, Lactobacillus helveticus is a Lactobacillus helveticus HA-128 (BCCM LMG S-24804), a Lactobacillus helveticus HA-501 (CNCM 1-1772), a Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 (CNCM 1-1772) or a Lactobacillus helveticus Lafti L10 R0419 (CBS 116411) or a mixture thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, Lactobacillus helveticus is a Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 (CNCM 1-1772).

The present invention also relates to the use of a cosmetic or dermatological composition consisting essentially of a culture supernatant of Lactobacillus sp and acceptable excipients in cosmetics, for cutaneous hydration, preferably the culture supernatant of Lactobacillus sp is a supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus. In one embodiment, the culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus is in a concentration ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, preferably in a concentration ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to total weight of the cosmetic composition, more preferably in a concentration ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition, still more preferably in a concentration varying from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In another embodiment, Lactobacillus helveticus is a Lactobacillus helveticus HA-128 (BCCM LMG S-24804), Lactobacillus helveticus HA-501 (CNCM 1-1772), Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 (CNCM 1-1772), or Lactobacillus helveticus Lafti L10 R0419 (CBS 116411) or a mixture thereof. In a preferred embodiment, Lactobacillus helveticus is a Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 (CNCM 1-1772).

According to one aspect of the invention, Lactobacillus helveticus is a Lactobacillus helveticus HA-128 (Lallemand Health Solution ("LHS"), Lactobacillus helveticus HA-501 (LHS), Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 (LHS) or Lactobacillus helveticus Lafti L10 R0419 (LHS) or a mixture thereof.

Description of figures

Figure 1 illustrates the effect of the composition according to the invention on the desquamation as well as the analysis of the desquames.

Figure 2 illustrates the mean desquamation indices calculated at T0 and Tlh in the control group and treated with the composition according to the invention.

FIG. 3 illustrates that the control zone (HA cream - placebo) has at 1 hour a level of desquamation 42.96% higher than that of the treated zone (HB cream - 3% of the culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus R0052). study).

Figure 4 illustrates the average cell occupied areas calculated at T0 and Tlh in the control group and treated with the composition of the invention.

Figure 5 illustrates that the results on the occupied surface corroborate with the results obtained on the desquamation index.

Figure 6 illustrates the area occupied by the cell layers calculated as a percentage at T0 and Tlh in the control group and treated with the composition according to the invention.

Figure 7 illustrates the area occupied by 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5 cell layers calculated as a percentage at T0 and Tlh in the control group and treated with the composition according to the invention. FIG. 8 illustrates that the control cream reduces the cohesion of the keratinocytes on these deeper layers whereas the cream comprising the composition according to the invention maintains the cohesion of the keratinocytes on these layers.

FIG. 9 illustrates the results on the desquamation index and on the surface occupied by the cell layers with and without treatment with the composition according to the invention.

Figure 10 illustrates the effect of the composition according to the invention on the hydration lh after its application on the forearms.

Figure 11 illustrates the average hydration values calculated on D0 and D7 for each volunteer to evaluate the effectiveness of the composition of the invention when used daily.

Figure 12 illustrates the average hydration gain on all volunteers after 7 days.

Figure 13 illustrates the percent hydration gain for each volunteer and the average hydration gain indicated by a dotted line.

Figure 14 illustrates the results expressed as a percentage of volunteers answering YES by the average of a value between 1 and 10 (1: very little and 10: a lot).

Figure 15 illustrates that after 3 days of treatment, in 100% of subjects, all dry areas disappeared; after 1 week of treatment 70% of the volunteers no longer have the skin that fires and after 1 week of treatment 50% of the volunteers no longer have the skin marked on waking.

Figure 16 illustrates the responses of the volunteers as to the effect of the composition according to the invention for 7 days on the parameters promoting the hydration of the skin.

Figure 17 shows that 30% of the volunteers observed a decrease in fine lines from the second day of application and after 7 days of use 50% of volunteers find this effect.

Figure 18 shows the results of the end-of-study questionnaire expressed as a percentage of volunteers responding by YES or NO. Figure 19 illustrates the "reads" of Propionibacterium acnes before and after treatment on the skin with the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention.

Figure 20 illustrates the "reads" of Corynebacterium kroppenstedtii and S. epidermidis before and after treatment on the skin with the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention.

detailed description

Dry skin is essentially manifested by a feeling of tightness and / or tension. It is often associated with a decrease in the level of skin hydration and an alteration of the barrier function, measured by the insensitive loss of water.

The term "skin hydration" refers to the amount of water in the stratum corneum, the outermost stratum corneum of the skin, and is often used as one of the measures of skin health. The general characteristics of healthy skin include a gradual increase in the water content of the stratum corneum from about 15 to 25% on the surface of the skin to about 70% in the viable epidermis. Dehydrated skin is often associated with poor barrier function, which often results in reduced protection against pathogens, toxins and the environment.

The present application therefore relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition intended for the hydration of the skin. The term "skin" when used in this specification refers to the skin of the body or face, the scalp and the lips. The cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention consists essentially of a culture supernatant of the Lactobacillus species and acceptable excipients in cosmetics. All species of Lactobacillus demonstrating a moisturizing effect of the skin under the conditions described in the present application can be envisaged for the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the present invention. In general, a Lactobacillus culture is obtained until the stationary phase, the culture medium is centrifuged in order to obtain a culture supernatant and a microbial biomass. The supernatant is finally separated from the biomass by means known to those skilled in the art. The supernatant according to the invention is then optionally concentrated according to known methods at a concentration factor ranging from 0 to 15. The concentration of the supernatant according to the invention is generally under reduced pressure or at atmospheric pressure, and at a temperature ranging from 10 ° C. to 100 ° C.

Culture media adapted to the growth of Lactobacillus spp. generally include yeast extracts, peptones (animal or vegetable), salts, inorganic or organic sources of phosphate, nitrogen and potassium, etc. as well as sugars. These commercially available media, as well as the growth conditions of this bacterium (pH, temperature, aeration, agitation, redox potential, duration) are well known to those skilled in the art. According to the present application, such a medium can be developed by those skilled in the art, it can be used as commercially available or can be modified, most often by modifying the concentration and / or the nature of the aforementioned ingredients, to promote the development of different Lactobacillus strains and including, for example, Lactobacillus helveticus. According to one aspect of the invention, the peptones employed in the culture media are of animal or vegetable origin.

Preferably, the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention consists essentially of a culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus and acceptable excipients in cosmetics.

Advantageously, the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention makes it possible to reduce and / or prevent the desquamation index and the dehydration by promoting the cohesion of the keratinocytes at the surface, also promoting the cohesion of the keratinocytes in depth and by braking Insensible water loss (PIE). The culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus of the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention has no hygroscopic power but rather demonstrates a hydrophobic character without however having the physicochemical characteristics of an oil, a butter or a wax or any other fat. The culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus of the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention is inserted into the upper layers of the skin in order to reinforce their cohesion and to slow the insensitive loss of water. The cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the present invention also makes it possible to compensate for the loss of dead cells induced by the use of desiccants, such as, for example, shampoos, soaps, shower gels and creams intended for high-pressure areas. desquamation index such as scalp, hands or feet.

According to one aspect of the invention, the culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus is in a concentration ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic or dermatological composition. According to a further aspect of the invention, the culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus is in a concentration ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. According to another aspect of the invention, the culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus is in a concentration ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. According to another additional aspect of the invention, the culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus is in a concentration ranging from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention is free from protease activity.

According to one aspect of the invention, Lactobacillus helveticus is a Lactobacillus helveticus HA-128 (LHS, registered with BCCM as number LMG S-24804), Lactobacillus helveticus HA-501 (LHS, registered with Institut Pasteur as number I-1772 ), a Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 (LHS, registered with Institut Pasteur as number 1-1772) or a Lactobacillus helveticus Lafti L10 R0419 (LHS, registered with CBS as number 116411) or a mixture thereof. According to a preferred aspect of the invention, Lactobacillus helveticus is a Lactobacillus helveticus R0052.

The acceptable cosmetic excipients are of various nature depending on the type of formulation considered.

As regards more particularly the cosmetic or dermatological compositions intended for topical administration, they may be aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solutions, dispersions of the type of solutions or dispersions of the lotion or serum type, liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, of suspensions or emulsions, of the cream or gel type aqueous or anhydrous, microemulsions, microcapsules, microparticles, or vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type.

These cosmetic or dermatological compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

These compositions may in particular constitute creams for cleaning, protection, treatment or care for the face, for the hands, for the feet, for large anatomical folds or for the body, (for example, day creams, night creams). make-up creams, foundation creams, sunscreen creams), make-up products such as fluid foundations, make-up removing milks, body care or protection milks, after-sun milks, lotions, skin care gels or mousses, such as cleaning or disinfecting lotions, sunscreen lotions, artificial tanning lotions, bath compositions, deodorant compositions containing a bactericidal agent, gels or lotions after abrasive creams, or compositions against insect bites.

The compositions according to the invention may also consist of solid preparations constituting soaps or cleaning bars.

They can also be used for the scalp in the form of solutions, creams, gels, emulsions, foams or in the form of aerosol compositions also containing a propellant under pressure. The oils, emulsifiers and coemulsifiers used in the composition in emulsion form are chosen from those conventionally used in the cosmetics and / or dermatological field.

In known manner, the cosmetic composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants usual in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical and / or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents , perfumes, fillers, filters, bactericides, odor absorbers and dyestuffs. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase and / or into the aqueous phase. Like subjects fatty oils that can be used in the invention, excluding unsaturated fatty acids, mention may be made of mineral oils such as, for example, hydrogenated polyisobutene and liquid petrolatum, vegetable oils such as, for example, a liquid fraction of shea butter, sunflower oil and apricot kernels, animal oils such as perhydrosqualene, synthetic oils including Purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate and ethyl hexyl palmitate, and fluorinated oils such as perfluoropolyethers, for example . It is also possible to use fatty alcohols, fatty acids such as stearic acid and, for example, waxes such as paraffin, carnauba and beeswax. It is also possible to use silicone compounds such as silicone oils and, for example, cyclomethicone and dimethicone, waxes, resins and silicone gums.

As emulsifiers used in the invention there may be mentioned for example glycerol stearate, polysorbate 60, the mixture of cetylstearyl alcohol / oxyethylenated cetylstearyl alcohol with 33 moles of ethylene oxide sold under the name Sinnowax AO ^® by the company Henkel , the mixture of PEG-6 / PEG-32 / glycol stearate sold under the name Tefose ^® 63 by the company Gattefosse, PPG-3 myristyl ether, silicone emulsifiers such as cetyl dimethicone copolyol and sorbitan monostearate or tristearate, PEG-40 stearate, oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate (20OE).

As solvents that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of lower alcohols, in particular ethanol and isopropanol, and propylene glycol.

As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of carboxylic polymers such as carbomer, acrylic copolymers such as copolymers of acrylates / alkyl acrylates, polyacrylamides and in particular the polyacrylamide mixture, C13-14-Isoparaffin and Laureth-7 sold under the name Sepigel 305 ^® by the company SEPPIC, polysaccharides such as cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, and in particular hydroxypropylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose, natural gums such as guar, locust bean and xanthan and clays.

As lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids such as aluminum stearates and hydrophobic silica, or else ethylcellulose and polyethylene. As assets hydrophilic, it is possible to use proteins or protein hydrolysates, amino acids, polyols, especially C ₂ -C ₁₀ polyols such as glycerol, sorbitol, butylene glycol and polyethylene glycol, urea, allantoin, sugars and derivatives sugar, water-soluble vitamins, starch, bacterial or plant extracts like those of Aloe Vera. As lipophilic active agents, it is possible to use retinol (vitamin A) and its derivatives, tocopherol (vitamin E) and its derivatives, ceramides, essential oils and unsaponifiables (tocotrienol, sesamin, gamma oryzanol, phytosterols, squalenes, waxes, terpenes).

The composition of the invention may also contain a thermal and / or mineral water, in particular chosen from Vittel water, the waters of the Vichy basin and the Roche Posay water.

The present application also relates to a method for moisturizing the skin, the method comprises the topical application to the skin of a cosmetic or dermatological composition as defined above.

The present application also relates to any cosmetic or dermatological product comprising or incorporating a cosmetic or dermatological composition as defined above. Cosmetic or dermatological products are, for example, but not limited to this list: a cleaning cream; a protective cream; a treatment or treatment cream for the face, for the hands, for the feet, for the great anatomical folds or for the body; a makeup product; a lotions, a gel or a mousse for the care of the skin; sunscreen lotion, artificial tanning lotion, bath composition, deodorant composition containing bactericidal agent, aftershave gel or lotions, depilatory cream, insect bite composition; a soap; a cleaning roll, shampoos or shower gels.

The present application also relates to the uses of a cosmetic or dermatological composition as defined above for cutaneous hydration.

Examples

EXAMPLE 1 Preparation of the culture of Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 and its culture supernatant The strain Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 (LHS, registered with the National Collection of Microorganisms Culture (CNCM), Institut Pasteur, Paris, France, under the reference 1-1772) is produced by fermentor using the following culture medium:

The medium is seeded with an inoculum from a culture of Lactobacillus helveticus R0052. The growth of the Lactobacillus helveticus strain is carried out at 30 ° C. with stirring. The culture is conducted to the stationary phase.

The culture obtained under the conditions described above is completely centrifuged on a centrifuge continuously at 15,000 revolutions / min in order to separate the microbial biomass and the culture supernatant.

The exemplary culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 bacterium was not neutralized. The culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus bacteria R0052 is concentrated, 85% of liquid was evaporated at a gentle heat (oven 45 ° C) so that the product under study can benefit from a texture that does not allow the flow on inclined plane. After concentration, the culture supernatant of bacterium Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 is stored at 4 ° C. and is at pH 5.85.

Type of product.

The cosmetic products tested are manufactured, transported and stored according to the GMP applicable to cosmetic products (Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products since 11 July 2013). Two cosmetic creams are tested during the study: Cream control - placebo: Cream HA.

Cream containing the culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus bacteria R0052: HB cream. This cream is identical in all respects to the control cream (HA) with the exception of the culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus R0052

The culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 introduced at 3% into HB cream and substituted with water in HA cream.

Formulation.

The formula is:

HA cream:

HB cream containing a culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus R0052

Dispersing phase:

In the present example it has not been included fat phase (wax, vegetable oil, mineral oil, butter, ..) or silicone to prevent their hydrophobic properties are an artifact. However, the composition according to the present application optionally includes a fatty phase and / or silicone.

With water as a single dispersant phase, it should be noted that the effects of a culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 are minimized by naturally drying support. If the water that is absorbed is beneficial for skin hydration, the water on the skin dries out due to an osmotic phenomenon.

Glycerin has been introduced to provide comfort to volunteers especially organoleptically. It is understood that the subjects have dry skin and that the test takes place over 1 week.

SEPIPLUS ™ 400 is a gelling agent that is to say a substance that allows to give the consistency of a gel. This substance is essential to give the product the consistency of a cream with no impact on the properties under study, unlike the impact that wax, oils or butters could have had.

Euxyl® K 900 is a liquid cosmetic preservative for use in non-rinse cosmetic products, including wet wipes. In particular, it has excellent efficacy against bacteria, yeasts and molds. It was introduced for its conservative properties.

The perfume was introduced to improve cosmetic acceptability without impacting the properties under study.

Citric acid was introduced to adjust the pH to a compatible pH without impacting the properties under study. Beyond the lack of moisturizing properties of the additional ingredients, the formula will, on the contrary, mimic dehydration induced by an exogenous factor. The exogenous factors involved in skin dehydration by promoting insensible water loss (PEI) are numerous. Among which, temperature variations, the cold that contracts the vessels, the dry air, the heat, the wind, the sun, the frequent baths in hot water because it dissolves the fatty substances which protects the surface skin, the swimming in chlorinated water, frequent contact with soaps, cleaning or household products, make-up products, perfumes, etc. Beyond these environmental factors, nutritional elements influence the level of insensible water loss such as insufficient fluid intake or alcohol consumption which is diuretic.

Some drugs can also have the same effects, such as diuretics, antihistamines or hypothyroidism. Some cosmetics also promote PIE. This is the case of the formula chosen for the test so as to mimic the exogenous drying. The aim is to evaluate the effect of Lactobacillus helveticus culture supernatant R0052 on the prevention of dehydration.

Both creams are packaged in airless pump bottles of about 15 mL. Mode of use (Location and method of application)

Day 0

HA creams are applied to the control forearm and HB cream is applied to the forearm (treated forearm). This location expresses the result in its minimum form because of the fact that:

- This zone has a smaller stratum corneum (greater PIE)

- Fewer sebaceous glands (lower quality hydro lipid film)

- A denser vascular network (a maximized PIE)

- A more "entrusted" zone (a maximized PIE)

Under these conditions, no artifact is expected on the expression of the results. As for the applications, they are carried out by the investigator at the start of the study.

Day 0 to 6

The HB cream is applied daily by the volunteer, in the evening, on the face following the recommendations of the investigator during the initial visit (OJ).

Storage

The creams are made the week before the study (week 6) and stored at room temperature.

Volunteers must not expose the product to sun or heat

Reference / Lot number

Hydration - evaluation criteria

The evaluation of dry skin is performed with an electrical method known in the art using corneometry.

Electric impedance (El) is defined as the electrical resistance of the skin to an alternating current. The measurement of skin impedance has been widely studied and is the most widely used technique for assessing the water content of the stratum corneum.

The electrical properties of the skin are directly related to the water content of the stratum corneum. The increase in the level of epidermal hydration results in changes in the electrical properties of the stratum corneum manifested by a decrease in capacitance, and impedance. The corneometer probe is made of two metal plates placed nearby, separated from the skin surface by a glass slide to prevent current conduction. Methodology

Locating corresponding forearm areas

The marking of the measurement zones is done using layers, according to the following methodology: A ruler is positioned on the forearm, the zero being positioned on the middle of the fold of the elbow and the end along the middle finger . A point of color is positioned at 6 cm, 14 cm and 22 cm. A layer with 5 holes and a positioning mark are then used. At first, hole A is positioned on the color dot at 6 cm. The mark A is positioned on the point of color at 14 cm. Four color points are made at the holes B, C, D and E. The hole A is then positioned on the color point at 14 cm. The mark A is positioned on the color dot at 22 cm. 4 color points are made at holes B, C, D and E. This gives 4 measurement zones: Front Arm - Left - Low; Front Arm - Left - High; Front Arm - Right - Lower and Front Arm - Right - High. Locating the corresponding areas Face

The location of areas for the corneometer probe was also done on the face. 3 measurement zones of about 14 mm positioned between the upper part of the ear and the lower part of the nose.

Measurement methodology

To evaluate the effects of the product under study on skin hydration, we have implemented a procedure that allows to identify areas and ensure perfect reproducibility of measurements:

measuring on the right and left arms of the control creams and with the composition according to the invention;

- 5 measurement points are carried out per zone. Measurements are made from the tip and then turning in a clockwise direction; and

- measurements made in triplicate for each point

Acquisition of data

At each of these 60 points, cutaneous hydration was measured using a CM825 ™ corneometer.

Quantification of hydration.

In order to overcome the variability that may exist between the zones (arms, forearms and hand), mainly due to the hydrolipidic film, the results are expressed by making the difference between the measurement obtained after and before the application of the cream.

Value = measurement after application of the cream (s) - measurement before application

To avoid a possible measurement bias, the median value of the triplicates was retained for the analysis. These values therefore correspond to the effect of the application of the cream (or creams) on the percentage of hydration.

Statistical methods.

Descriptive statistics for quantitative variables (mean, standard deviation, standard error on average, minimum value and maximum value) were calculated. To evaluate the difference between each kinetic (J0 T0, J0 Tlh) and basal value (J0 T0), a matched data test was used. The Type I error threshold was set at a = 0.05 in two-sided mode. peeling

The desquamation index of the skin is a good marker of cutaneous dryness. QUANTISQUAME® software was used to analyze and quantify the amount of scales on the surface of the skin using DSQUAMES ™ or CORNEOFIX ™ patches. The disc is positioned on a black surface with uniform illumination. The light is diffracted and reflected by the presence of epidermal material removed. The whiteness of the image is proportional to the thickness of the layers taken. The software calculates in particular the occupied surface and the desquamation index.

Results

Effect of the Composition According to the Invention on Desquamation - Desquam Analysis

Analysis by volunteer and by zone

For each volunteer, we can see in Figure 1 the images obtained on each of the forearm areas (right bottom, left bottom, right up, left high) before using the creams and 1 hour after application. Figure 1 also tells us about the results obtained with the QUANTISQUAME software on a surface of 75.53 mm ² of Desquame (centered in the middle of the image):

Scaling index (left - T0 and right - Tlh)

The area occupied by scales in mm ² (left - T0 and right - T lh)

The area occupied by 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 layers of cells in% (left - T0 and right - T lh)

Cohesion of corneocytes

The cohesion of the keratinocytes can be evaluated: on the surface by the desquamation index and the area occupied and / or in depth by the number of layers of cells taken from the desquamation

All of these parameters have been evaluated.

Desquamation index:

There exists in normal skin a state of equilibrium between the processes of differentiation proliferation of keratinocytes and the desquamation of corneocytes. Every day, a layer of the stratum corneum (SC) is removed, and the underlying epidermis synthesizes a new layer.

Cells in the process of desquamation are collected using an adhesive tab (Corneofix®). The number, size and thickness of the corneocytes indicate the degree of hydration of the stratum corneum. Hydrated skin has regularly placed cells, whereas on dehydrated or damaged skin, large and thick cells are observed.

From the results obtained and indicated above, the means were calculated at TO and Tlh in the control group and treated with the composition according to the invention. These averages are shown in Figure 2.

Before application of the cream the desquamation indices were relatively homogeneous 23.6 against 24.5 on the different zones under study. The desquamation indices 1 hour after application of the cream highlight two important parameters: The control index went from 24.5 to 39.6 or 61.63% additional desquamation after 1 hour. While the value gap before application was only 4% and it is more than 10 times higher after the application of the cream (42.96%). Proof of this is that the introduction of the composition according to the invention considerably influences the level of desquamation. This element at 1 hour testifies to a better cohesion of the keratinocytes predictive of an improvement in hydration by decreasing the insensible loss of water (PIE) over time.

Figure 3 shows that the control zone (HA cream - placebo) has at 1 hour a level of desquamation 42.96% greater than that of the treated area (HB cream - 3% culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 at the same time). study). At T0 the comparison shows no difference (24.5 for the controls and 23.6 for the treaties), the different zones studied are not a factor of variability. 1 hour after application of the products, the desquamation index is lower on the treated zone of 24.5 to 39.6 (* p <0.05) attesting to the effectiveness of the composition according to the invention. With an increase in the desquamation index of 61.63% on the untreated zone it can be concluded that the support cream (control) does not oppose the loss of water, that no cumulative effect or enhancer of a hydration phenomenon can be attributed to the formula and at repeated dose tissue dehydration would be important.

At the same time, there is no significant difference in the treated area (from 23.6 to 27.7). It can be concluded that the composition according to the invention acts effectively on cutaneous hydration by slowing the insensible loss of water (PIE).

The introduction of the culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus at a level of 3% into the composition according to the invention makes it possible to reduce the desquamation index by 71.52%. This effect is due to a better cohesion of the keratinocytes in the presence of the culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus. Better "cemented" between them corneocytes let less water escape from the dermis.

Occupied area:

From the results obtained and indicated above, the averages were calculated at T0 and Tlh in the control and treated group. These averages are shown in Figure 4.

Beyond the effect noted on desquamation, this mechanism of action has other cosmetic interests including a decrease in skin sensitivity and a protective capacity of the reinforced stratum corneum.

As shown in Figure 5, the results on the occupied area corroborate the results obtained on the desquamation index. While no difference is to be noted at T0 after application of the cream, the area covered by the desquamates increases by 41.64% whereas in the presence of the composition according to the invention the increase is no longer than 15.95%. The comparison to TO shows no difference (37.7 mm ² for controls and 37.6 mm ² for treaties). These homogeneous results indicate that there is no difference between the areas studied and will not be a factor of variability. 1 hour after application of the cream, it is noted that the occupied area is greater with the cream control passing from 37.7 mm 2 to 53.4 mm 2 (* p <0.05) whereas there is no significant difference with the composition according to the invention (from 37.6 mm ² to 43.6 mm ² ). The difference in area occupied by the corneocytes between the control and the treated at lh is significant (53.4 mm ² - 43.6 mm ² , # p <0.05) The use of the composition according to the invention makes it possible to compensate for 61.69% loss in dead cell induced by the use of a desiccant.

It should be noted that the cohesion of the keratinocytes is confirmed both on the desquamation index and on the surface occupied by the corneocytes in equivalent and important proportions: a 79.56% compensation of the desquamation index and a 61.69% compensation for loss of dead cells.

The use of this composition according to the invention will be especially recommended in all drying formulas such as shampoos, soaps, shower gels and all creams for areas with high desquamation index such as hands or feet.

Surface occupied by the layers of cells:

The dams used in this example can tear up to 5 layers of cells. Thus on the desquames, there will be zones with only one cell layer, but also zones with 2, 3, 4, and 5 superimposed layers of cells. The QSQUAME software can identify these areas and calculate the area occupied by a superposition of 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 layers of cells.

The results are shown in Figure 6. The last two lines of the correspond to percentages (%) of variation for controls and treaties after lh.

Representation with averages:

The average values were used in Figure 7. It is observed that at T0, the results are identical between the treated zones and the control zones. This confirms the homogeneity of the areas studied.

FIG. 8 indicates that the control cream reduces the cohesion of the keratinocytes on these deeper layers while the composition according to the invention maintains the cohesion of the keratinocytes on these layers.

The important difference noted on the tearing of the layers between the treated zone and the control zone shows an effect of the composition according to the invention in depth. While without composition according to the invention tearing is deep, with the composition according to the invention the deep layers are held and resist tearing a differential factor of 15 is found between the treated area and the untreated area. These results put evidence of an important and early effect with deep cohesive properties.

The results of Figure 9 on desquamation index and area occupied are consistent with the observation of desquamation. In Figure 9, the black corresponds to zero cell layer, while the white corresponds to 5 layers of cells. The gray levels correspond to 1, 2,3 and 4 layers of cells going from black to white. There is an increase in "white" areas on the Desquame control at lh corresponding to an increase in the area occupied by layers of 2-3-4 or 5 cells. While in the zone with the composition according to the invention, the white level has the same tendency to decrease. The culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus introduced at 3% into the composition according to the invention prevents or reduces dehydration, promotes the cohesion of keratinocytes at the surface, promotes the cohesion of keratinocytes at depth and slows down the insensible loss of water (PIE). .

Effect of the Composition According to the Invention on the Hydration After Applying the Measurement of Corneometry on the Forearms

Dehydration was induced in one hour by an exogenous factor. From the raw data obtained on the volunteers, the average hydration gains were calculated on the control and treated zones for each volunteer. The general averages of the two groups as well as the Standard Error of the Mean (SEM) were calculated. To evaluate the difference between control and processed, a Student's test for matched data was used. The type I error threshold was set at a = 0.05 in two-sided mode. The results are shown in Figure 10. The lack of effect at lh confirms the absence of hygroscopic hydration mechanism.

You can not hydrate by bringing water to the surface of the skin. The only way to hydrate your skin is to drink enough and stop the insensible loss of water on the surface of the skin, so as to keep it in the tissues.

There are 2 ways to reduce water insensitive loss a) deposit on the surface of the skin hygroscopic molecules of low molecular weight that will penetrate the upper layers of the epidermis and retain water in the tissues. Some of these molecules have the ability to hold up to 200 times their volume in water (example: hyaluronic acid) and / or b) deposit a hydrophobic product on the surface so as to limit the insensible loss of water.

In the case of a hygroscopic product, the hydrating capacity is measurable in the first hour whereas in the case of a hydrophobic product hydration is measured after several hours of contact and after accumulation of differential between the intrinsic loss and the loss. diminished.

The absence of variation at 1 hour confirms the mechanism of the hydrophobic products. However, it should be noted that the composition according to the invention does not exhibit the physicochemical characteristics of an oil, a butter, a wax or any other fat. The composition according to the invention is non-greasy, water-soluble and, in this sense, presents undeniable qualities for formulators: the possibility of introducing it into a lotion or a gel without surfactant, is compatible with oily and leaves no greasy film on the surface of the skin.

It can be concluded that the composition according to the invention has no hygroscopic power. It is inserted into the upper layers of the skin in order to reinforce their cohesion and to slow down the insensible loss of water.

Effect of the composition according to the invention on the hydration after 7 days of application - Measurement of corneometry on the face

Analyzes of the cumulative effect on the level of hydration after 7 days of application. From the raw data, the average hydration values were calculated in OJ and J7 for each volunteer to evaluate the effectiveness of the composition according to the invention when it is used daily. The general averages at OJ and J7 and the Standard Error of the Mean (SEM) were calculated. To evaluate the difference between control and processed, a paired Student Student test was used. The type I error threshold was set at a = 0.05 in two-sided mode.

The results are shown in Figure 11. The average hydration gain for all volunteers is 28.5% after 7 days (range 42.4 to 54.5) as shown in Figure 12. The percent hydration gain for each volunteer is shown in Figure 13. The average hydration gain is indicated by a dashed line. These results indicate that 100% of volunteers exhibit a better hydration of the facial skin after one week of use of the composition according to the invention. The hydration gains vary according to the volunteers from + 8.6% (voluntary 10) to + 70.6% (volunteer 9). 45% of volunteers have an above-average hydration gain.

It can therefore be concluded that the composition according to the invention improves the cutaneous hydration of 28.5% in 1 week by cumulative effect on the lowering of the PIE.

• Perception of the effectiveness of the composition according to the invention by the volunteers during 7 days of applications.

The follow-up questionnaire makes it possible to evaluate the perception of the effectiveness of the composition according to the invention by the volunteer during the 7 days of use of the product. The notion of hydration being complex, the volunteers were asked about different parameters that they were able to evaluate and which are for the examiner information that indicate the level of hydration of the skin. Analysis of characteristic parameters of dry skin

The level of hydration of the skin was evaluated by the volunteers according to several indicators: the tightness of the skin, the marks on waking, the presence of dry areas, the reactivity of the skin to changes. For all of these indicators, the more the skin is hydrated, the more they will decrease.

Figure 14 illustrates the results over 7 days of treatment with the composition according to the invention on the tightness of the skin. The results are expressed as a percentage of volunteers answering YES by the average of a value between 1 and 10 (1: very little and 10: a lot). There is a decrease in tightness of the skin over 7 days.

Figure 15 illustrates that after 3 days of treatment with the composition according to the invention, in 100% of the subjects, all the dry areas have disappeared; after 1 week of treatment 70% of the volunteers no longer have the skin that fires and after 1 week of treatment 50% of the volunteers no longer have the skin marked on waking.

Analyzes of the parameters related to the quality of the skin

A better hydrated skin can be perceived by the user of the product through different criteria: the suppleness of the skin, fine wrinkles or a more radiant complexion. A better hydrated skin will favor these parameters. The volunteers were questioned daily for 7 days on the effect of the composition according to the invention on these parameters.

The results in Figure 16 are expressed as a percentage of volunteers answering YES or NO or the average of a value between 1 and 10 (1: little / bad / dull and 10: very / very good / bright) .

If an improvement is noted by all the volunteers, the lower impact on the flexibility of the skin is related to the strong cohesion of keratinocytes induced by the composition according to the invention itself. The corneocyte junctions are stronger, the perception of flexibility is more difficult to perceive. After 7 days of application the suppleness of the skin is increased by 15%, an effect on the radiance of the complexion from the first day of application, confirmed on J7; an improvement in radiance of the complexion of 50% at 7 days.

Figure 17 illustrates that 30% of volunteers observe a decrease in fine lines from the second day of application and after 7 days of use 50% of volunteers find this effect.

The analysis of various criteria in daily life allows us to conclude that the composition according to the invention has an effect on the hydration of the upper layers of the epidermis. This effect is perceived visually on all the visual parameters involved in cutaneous hydration.

The results of the end-of-study questionnaire are expressed as a percentage of volunteers answering YES or NO is shown in Figure 18.

The results obtained in this example confirm the analysis of the daily monitoring and show that the volunteers observed different effects of the composition according to the invention: 100% of the volunteers observed an effect of the product under study; 90% of the volunteers judged the product to be a moisturizer; 70% of volunteers have skin that is less tight; 60% of volunteers notice a decrease in fine lines; 90% of volunteers feel their skin more comfortable; 100% of volunteers have softer skin; 80% of the volunteers observe an improvement of the complexion; 90% of the volunteers think that their skin is less dry. The culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus when incorporated in a gel at approximately 3% prevents dehydration, reinforces the cohesion of the keratinocytes at the surface, reinforces the cohesion of the keratinocytes in depth, slows the loss insensitive to water, improves hydration in 100% of volunteers after 7 days of use, decreases all indicators (tightness, skin marked on waking, presence of dry areas and reactive skin) from the first day of application, 100% of the volunteers observed an effect of the product under study after 7 days; 90% of the volunteers judged the product to be a moisturizer after 7 days; 70% of volunteers have skin that is less tight after 7 days; 60% of the volunteers noticed a decrease in fine lines after 7 days; 90% of volunteers feel their skin more comfortable after 7 days; 100% of volunteers have softer skin after 7 days; 80% of the volunteers observe an improvement of the complexion after 7 days and 90% of the volunteers think that their skin is less dry after 7 days.

The culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus when incorporated to about 3% in a cream improves cutaneous hydration in 100% of volunteers after 7 days of use (5 bis) with an average of 30.4% (6). This moisturizing effect measured by corneometry is perceived by 90% of the volunteers. The effects associated with good hydration of the skin are also observed by the volunteers: general efficacy for 100% (8); less tugging for 70% (10); decreased fine lines by 60% (11); 90% more comfortable skin (12) softer skin for 100% (13); 80% improvement in complexion (14) and 90% less dry skin (15).

EXAMPLE 2 Effect of the Culture Supernatant of Lactobacillus Helveticus R0052 Bacteria According to the Invention on the Microbiota of the Skin

The cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention has been applied to the cheeks of subjects for a week.

A cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention which consists essentially of a culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 and acceptable excipients in cosmetics has been tested for the hydration of the skin for 7 days. The culture supernatant of the strain Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 is prepared as described in Example 1.

Summary of the clinic and samples: Hydration: 5 subjects (H1, H4, H6, H7 and H9) were taken from TO after washout and T7 after daily application of the H formulation.

For microbiological samples, the following protocol has been applied: at OJ, identification of an area on the left cheek (between the base of the nose and the ear = anatomical landmarks) using a layer with an opening of 10 cm ² . The swab is rubbed twice on this surface of 10 cm ² and is closed and stored at - 20 ° C. From D0 to D7: the creams are applied daily by the volunteers. At D7: after locating an area on the left cheek (between the base of the nose and the ear = anatomical landmarks) using a layer with an opening of

10 cm ² , the swab is rubbed twice on this surface of 10 cm ² and is stored at -20 ° C. The samples are shipped under dry ice. The list of samples sent is as follows:

HYDRATION (10 samples): H1: 2 samples: J0 and J7, H4: 2 samples: J0 and J7 (+ 2 samples with liquid in the tube to compare the two methods), H6: 2 samples J0 and J7 (+ 2 samples with liquid in the tube), H7: 2 samples J0 and J7 and H9: 2 samples: J0 and J7 (+ 2 samples with liquid in the tube).

It should be noted that these samples were not taken under a laminar flow hood. The consequence may be a significant background noise from the microorganism of the air of the sample room, a sensitive phenomenon especially for bacteria with a low number of reads.

The majority of cotton stems used has not been previously wetted contrary to the state of the art. An excessively long smear imbalances the vision of the surface microflora and puts forward anaerobic bacteria present in the lower layers of the epidermis, such as P. acnes. The area sampled could have been reduced by this pre-wetting.

On the other hand, considering the unique bacterial signature of each individual, it would have been appropriate to treat only half of the face and take as a witness half of the untreated face as a reference before and after treatment.

Results and synthesis of topics H: The overall gross landscape between OJ and J7 shows different relative percentages for: Corynebacterium kroppenstedtii which decreases Brochothrix sp which increases, a good stability of P. acnes.

The calculation of the Shannon index (biodiversity) shows that the one at OJ is in line with the biotope considered, a rather low biodiversity due to this region deemed rich oily. The Shannon index calculated at J7 shows no variation. There is therefore respect for bacterial diversity after treatment: Shannon H JO = 2.1699 and Shannon H TJ = 2.1403.

Overall, the landscape was respected after treatment: there is no damage to the initial microflora.

Total number of reads:

After cleaning the base:

Total number of reads J0 = 11341 Total reads J7 = 19778

That is 74.4% increase of the bacterial population without disruption of the landscape.

Without cleaning the base, 13129 reads are obtained at T0 and 22385 reads at T7, ie 70.5% increase after treatment, which confirms that the cleaning did not substantially modify the balance on the one hand and that the increase in the number of bacteria is clear.

As shown in Figures 19 and 20, the increase of Propionibacterium acnes, Corynebacterium kroppenstedtii and S. epidermidis is clearly in favor of an improvement of the microflora of the skin. S. epidermidis is considered a bacterium very favorable to the quality of the skin. In addition, it controls S. aureus which is supported here by the stability of the latter: Staphylococcus aureus has an average of 37 reads before treatment and 43 after treatment: stability while at the same time all the bacteria is in net increase. S. aureus has an aw of 0.83 versus 0.86 for S. epidermidis. This element, correlated with the massive increase of Proteobacteria, promotes an increase of free water on the skin.

The Phylum Protobacteria is specific to natural waters and therefore requires high aw. The hydration of the skin is therefore indirectly perceived by the increase of this Phylum which goes from 1775 reads to 2480 is almost 40% increase for bacteria requiring strong aw so a high proportion of free water.

Conclusion: The cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention respects the bacterial diversity after treatment. The composition according to the invention increases by approximately 74.4% the bacterial population without disruption of the bacterial landscape. The composition according to the invention also allows an increase in S. epidermidis, demonstrating an improvement in the microflora of the skin. The composition according to the invention also allows a massive increase in Proteobacteria demonstrating an increase in free water on the skin, and therefore a better hydration.

Claims

1- Cosmetic or dermatological composition intended for cutaneous hydration, said cosmetic or dermatological composition consisting essentially of a culture supernatant of Lactobacillus sp and acceptable excipients in cosmetics, preferably the culture supernatant of Lactobacillus sp is a culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus.

2- Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus is in a concentration ranging from 0.1 to 10%, preferably in a concentration ranging from 0.01 to 30%, more preferably in a concentration varying from 0.1 to 5%, even more preferably in a concentration ranging from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

3- Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the Lactobacillus helveticus is a Lactobacillus helveticus HA-128 (BCCM LMG S-24804), a Lactobacillus helveticus HA-501 (CNCM 1-1772), a Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 (CNCM 1-1772) or Lactobacillus helveticus Lafti L10 R0419 (CBS 116411) or a mixture thereof.

4- Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the Lactobacillus helveticus is a Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 (CNCM 1-1772).

5- A method for moisturizing the skin, the method comprises the topical application to the skin of a cosmetic or dermatological composition consisting essentially of a culture supernatant of Lactobacillus sp and acceptable excipients in cosmetics, preferably the culture supernatant of Lactobacillus sp is a culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus.

6. Method according to claim 5, characterized in that the culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus is in a concentration ranging from 0.01 to 30%, preferably in a concentration varying from 0.1 to 10%, more preferably in a concentration varying from , 1 to 5%, even more preferably in concentration ranging from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

7- Method according to claim 5 or 6, characterized in that Lactobacillus helveticus is a Lactobacillus helveticus HA-128 (BCCM LMG S-24804), a Lactobacillus helveticus HA-501 (CNCM 1-1772), a Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 ( CNCM 1-1772) or Lactobacillus helveticus Lafti L10 R0419 (CBS 116411) or a mixture thereof.

8- Method according to any one of claims 6 to 7, characterized in that the Lactobacillus helveticus is a Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 (CNCM 1-1772).

9- Method according to any one of claims 5 to 8, characterized in that the cosmetic composition is intended for topical use.

10- Method according to any one of claims 5 to 8, characterized in that the cosmetic composition is intended for oral administration, or for administration by air.

11- Cosmetic or dermatological product comprising a cosmetic or dermatological composition consisting essentially of a culture supernatant of Lactobacillus sp and acceptable excipients in cosmetics, preferably the culture supernatant of Lactobacillus sp is a culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus.

12- Cosmetic or dermatological product according to claim 11, characterized in that Lactobacillus helveticus is a Lactobacillus helveticus HA-128 (BCCM LMG S-24804), a Lactobacillus helveticus HA-501 (CNCM 1-1772), a Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 (CNCM 1-1772) or Lactobacillus helveticus Lafti L10 R0419 (CBS 116411) or a mixture thereof.

13- Cosmetic or dermatological product according to claim 11 or 12, characterized in that the Lactobacillus helveticus is a Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 (CNCM 1-1772).

14- Cosmetic or dermatological product according to any one of claims 11 to 13, characterized in that the cosmetic or dermatological product is a cleaning cream; a protective cream; a cream for the treatment or care of the face, the hands, the feet, the large anatomical folds or the body; a makeup product; a lotions, a gel or a mousse for the care of the skin; sunscreen lotion, artificial tanning lotion, bath composition, deodorant composition containing bactericidal agent, aftershave gel or lotions, depilatory cream, insect bite composition; a soap; a cleaning roll, shampoos or shower gels.

15- Using a cosmetic or dermatological composition consisting essentially of a Lactobacillus sp culture supernatant and cosmetically acceptable excipients, for skin hydration, preferably, the Lactobacillus sp culture supernatant is a culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus .

16- Use according to claim 15, characterized in that the culture supernatant of Lactobacillus helveticus is in a concentration ranging from 0.1 to 10%, preferably in a concentration ranging from 0.01 to 30%, more preferably in a concentration of from 0 to , 1 to 5%, more preferably in a concentration ranging from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

17- The use according to claim 15 or 16, characterized in that the Lactobacillus helveticus is a Lactobacillus helveticus HA-128 (BCCM LMG S-24804), a Lactobacillus helveticus HA-501 (CNCM 1-1772), a Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 ( CNCM 1-1772) or Lactobacillus helveticus Lafti L10 R0419 (CBS 116411) or a mixture thereof.

18- Use according to any one of claims 15 to 17, characterized in that the Lactobacillus helveticus is a Lactobacillus helveticus R0052 (CNCM 1-1772).