WO2019129700A1 - Composition comprenant des microbilles de cire, un agent propulseur et un polymère fixant - Google Patents
Composition comprenant des microbilles de cire, un agent propulseur et un polymère fixant Download PDFInfo
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- WO2019129700A1 WO2019129700A1 PCT/EP2018/086554 EP2018086554W WO2019129700A1 WO 2019129700 A1 WO2019129700 A1 WO 2019129700A1 EP 2018086554 W EP2018086554 W EP 2018086554W WO 2019129700 A1 WO2019129700 A1 WO 2019129700A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
- A61K8/025—Explicitly spheroidal or spherical shape
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
- A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
- A61K8/046—Aerosols; Foams
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
- A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a composition, especially a cosmetic composition, based on microbead(s) of wax and/or of thermoplastic polymer, and on a fixing polymer, and to the use thereof for the cosmetic treatment of the hair, especially for hair shaping and/or hairstyle hold.
- the hair products for shaping and/or hairstyle hold that are the most widespread on the cosmetics market are spray compositions, such as lacquers and sprays. They are composed essentially of an alcoholic or aqueous solution and of one or more materials, generally polymeric resins, also referred to as fixing components, the function of which is to form joins between the individual hairs, in a blend with various cosmetic adjuvants.
- the volume of the hairstyle also has a tendency to greatly decrease during the day, particularly for fine hair.
- microbead(s) of at least one wax and/or of at least one thermoplastic polymer, and of a fixing polymer made it possible to obtain a hairstyle with volume and texture, while retaining a natural appearance and having the possibility of reworking one’s hairstyle.
- a subject of the invention is a composition comprising:
- microbead(s) of at least one wax and/or of at least one thermoplastic polymer other than the fixing polymers
- the hairstyle may also be remodeled during the day, without further application of product.
- This combination also makes it possible to provide volume to the hairstyle, which lasts over time, at least for 4 hours.
- the cosmetic composition according to the invention can be applied both to wet hair and to dry hair, preferably to dry hair.
- composition comprising:
- fixing polymer(s) chosen from anionic fixing polymers, amphoteric fixing polymers, and mixtures thereof;
- the present invention also relates to a process for hair shaping and/or hairstyle hold, comprising a step of applying the composition, to dry or wet hair, to be rinsed off or not after an optional leave-on time or after optional drying.
- Another subject of the invention is the use of the composition for hair shaping and/or hairstyle hold.
- the composition comprises one or more amphoteric fixing polymer(s), preferably chosen from polymers comprising units derived a) from at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom with an alkyl group, b) from at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more carboxylic groups, and c) from at least one comonomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom, and one or more microbead(s) of at least one wax, preferably chosen from microbeads of carnauba wax, and optionally one or more propellant(s).
- amphoteric fixing polymer(s) preferably chosen from polymers comprising units derived a) from at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom with an alkyl group, b) from at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more carboxylic groups, and c) from at least one comonomer comprising at least one basic
- composition according to the present invention comprises one or more fixing polymers.
- fixing polymer is intended to mean any polymer that is capable of giving a shape to a head of hair or of maintaining a head of hair in a given shape.
- the fixing polymer(s) used may be chosen from anionic, cationic, amphoteric and nonionic fixing polymers, and mixtures thereof.
- Anionic fixing polymers that may be mentioned include polymers comprising groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphoric acids, and having a number- average molecular mass of between 500 and 5 000 000.
- the carboxylic groups are provided by unsaturated monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid monomers, such as those corresponding to formula (I).
- n is an integer from 0 to 10
- A denotes a methylene group, optionally connected to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the adjacent methylene group, when n is greater than 1 , via a heteroatom, such as oxygen or sulfur,
- Ri denotes a hydrogen atom or a phenyl or benzyl group
- R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a carboxyl group,
- R3 denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a -CH2-COOH group, a phenyl group or a benzyl group.
- the alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms may in particular denote methyl and ethyl groups.
- anionic fixing polymers bearing carboxylic or sulfonic groups that are preferred are:
- A) copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or salts thereof including copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide, and methacrylic acid/acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymers, in particular Amerhold DR 25 sold by the company Amerchol, and sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids. Mention may also be made of methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymers, in particular in aqueous dispersion, such as Luviflex Soft and Luvimer MAE, which are sold by the company BASF.
- a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters and acrylic or methacrylic acid esters
- a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol and optionally crosslinked.
- Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1 222 944 and German application No. 2 330 956, the copolymers of this type comprising an optionally N-alkylated and/or hydroxyalkylated acrylamide unit in their chain as described especially in Luxembourg patent applications 75370 and 75371 . Mention may also be made of copolymers of acrylic acid and C1-C4 alkyl methacrylate.
- anionic fixing polymer from this class, mention may also be made of the butyl acrylate/acrylic acid/methacrylic acid branched block anionic polymer sold under the name Fixate G-100 L by the company Lubrizol (INCI name AMP-Acrylates/Allyl Methacrylate Copolymer).
- C) copolymers derived from crotonic acid such as those of which the chain comprises vinyl acetate or propionate units and optionally other monomers such as allyl or methallyl esters, vinyl ether or vinyl ester of a saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid containing a long hydrocarbon-based chain such as those comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, it being possible for these polymers to be optionally grafted and crosslinked, or alternatively a vinyl, allyl or methallyl ester of an a- or b-cyclic carboxylic acid.
- Such polymers are described, inter alia, in French patents Nos.
- Such polymers are described in particular in US patents 2 047 398, 2 723 248 and 2 102 1 13 and GB patent 839 805, and especially those sold under the names Gantrez® AN or ES by the company ISP.
- Polymers also falling within this category are the copolymers of maleic, citraconic or itaconic anhydrides and of an allylic or methallylic ester optionally comprising an acrylamide or methacrylamide group, an oolefin, acrylic or methacrylic esters, acrylic or methacrylic acids or vinylpyrrolidone in their chain, the anhydride functions being monoesterified or monoamidated.
- these polymers are described, for example, in French patents 2 350 384 and 2 357 241 by the Applicant.
- These polymers may be chosen especially from:
- polyvinylsulfonic acid salts with a molecular mass of between 1000 and 100 000 approximately, and also the copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and esters thereof, and also acrylamide or derivatives thereof, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone;
- the grafted silicone polymers used are preferentially chosen from polymers containing a non-silicone organic backbone grafted with monomers containing a polysiloxane, polymers containing a polysiloxane backbone grafted with non-silicone organic monomers, and mixtures thereof.
- anionic polyurethanes possibly comprising silicone grafts and silicones containing hydrocarbon-based grafts.
- fixing polyurethanes examples include the dimethylolpropionic acid/isophorone diisocyanate/neopentyl glycol/polyester diols copolymer (also known under the name polyurethane-1 , INCI name) sold under the brand name Luviset® PUR by the company BASF, and the dimethylolpropionic acid/isophorone diisocyanate/neopentyl glycol/polyester diols/silicone diamine copolymer (also known under the name polyurethane-6, INCI name) sold under the brand name Luviset® Si PUR A by the company BASF.
- dimethylolpropionic acid/isophorone diisocyanate/neopentyl glycol/polyester diols copolymer also known under the name Luviset® PUR by the company BASF
- Avalure UR 450 Another anionic polyurethane that may also be used is Avalure UR 450.
- Polymers containing sulfoisophthalate groups such as the polymers AQ55 and AQ48 sold by the company Eastman, may also be used.
- the anionic fixing polymers are preferably chosen from acrylic acid copolymers, such as the acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymer sold under the name Ultrahold Strong® by the company BASF, methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymers, in particular in aqueous dispersion, such as Luviflex Soft and Luvimer MAE sold by the company BASF, crotonic acid-derived copolymers, such as the vinyl acetate/vinyl tert-butylbenzoate/crotonic acid terpolymers and the crotonic acid/vinyl acetate/vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name Resin 28-29- 30 by the company National Starch, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric or itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic
- the cationic fixing polymers that may be used according to the present invention are preferably chosen from polymers comprising primary, secondary, tertiary and/or quaternary amine groups forming part of the polymer chain or directly attached thereto, and having a molecular weight of between 500 and approximately 5 000 000 and preferably between 1000 and 3 000 000.
- cationic fixing polymers mention may be made more particularly of the following cationic polymers:
- polymers optionally one or more units corresponding to formula (B) below:
- these polymers may especially be chosen from homopolymers or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.
- these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (B), preferentially from 10 mol% to 100 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mol% of units corresponding to the formula (B).
- These polymers may be obtained, for example, by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis may take place in acidic or basic medium.
- the weight-average molecular weight of said polymer measured by light scattering, may range from 1000 to 3 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 10 000 to 1 000 000 and more particularly from 100 000 to 500 000 g/mol.
- the polymers comprising units of formula (A) and optionally units of formula (B) are especially sold under the Lupamin name by the company BASF, for instance, in a non-limiting way, the products provided under the names Lupamin 9095, Lupamin 5095, Lupamin 1095, Lupamin 9030 (or Luviquat 9030) and Lupamin 9010;
- - chitosans or salts thereof are in particular the acetate, lactate, glutamate, gluconate or pyrrolidonecarboxylate of chitosan.
- chitosan having a degree of deacetylation of 90.5% by weight sold under the name Kytan Brut Standard by the company Aber Technologies
- chitosan pyrrolidonecarboxylate sold under the name Kytamer® PC by the company Amerchol.
- amphoteric fixing polymers that can be used in accordance with the invention may be chosen from polymers comprising units B and C distributed randomly in the polymer chain, in which B denotes a unit deriving from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit deriving from an acid monomer comprising one or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups, or alternatively B and C may denote groups deriving from carboxybetaine or sulfobetaine zwitterionic monomers; B and C can also denote a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups bears a carboxylic or sulfonic group connected via a hydrocarbon-based group, or alternatively B and C form part of a chain of a polymer containing an ethylenedicarboxylic unit in which one of the carboxylic groups has been made to react with a polyamine comprising one or more primary or secondary
- the vinyl compound may also be a dialkyldiallylammonium salt such as diethyldiallylammonium chloride.
- comonomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom such as acrylic and methacrylic acid esters bearing primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents, and the product of quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.
- basic nitrogen atom such as acrylic and methacrylic acid esters bearing primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents, and the product of quaternization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate.
- N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides that are more particularly preferred according to the invention are groups in which the alkyl groups contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N- tert-octylacrylamide, N-octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide and N-dodecylacrylamide, and the corresponding methacrylamides.
- the acidic comonomers are more particularly chosen from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, itaconic acid, maleic acid and fumaric acid and alkyl monoesters, containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides.
- the preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N,N’-dimethylaminoethyl and N- tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates.
- the octylacrylamide/ acrylates/butylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer may be 90% or 100% neutralized by AMP, preferably 100%.
- R 4 represents a divalent group derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, from a mono- or dicarboxylic aliphatic acid with an ethylenic double bond, from an ester of an alcohol containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms with these acids, or from a group deriving from the addition of any one of said acids with a bis-primary amine or bis-secondary- derived amine, and Z denotes a group of a bis-primary or mono- or bis-secondary polyalkylene-polyamine, and preferably represents:
- this group deriving from diethylenetriamine, from triethylenetetramine or from dipropylenetriamine;
- polyaminoamines in proportions of from 0 to 20 mol%, the group -NH-(CH2)6-NH- deriving from hexamethylenediamine, these polyaminoamines being crosslinked by addition of a difunctional crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, bis-unsaturated derivatives, by means of 0.025 to 0.35 mol of crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyaminoamide, and being alkylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or an alkane sultone or salts thereof.
- a difunctional crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, bis-unsaturated derivatives
- the saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids containing 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic acid, 2,2,4-trimethyladipic acid, 2,4,4-trimethyladipic acid and terephthalic acid, and acids bearing an ethylenic double bond, for instance acrylic, methacrylic and itaconic acids.
- the alkane sultones used in the alkylation are preferably propane sultone or butane sultone, the salts of the alkylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts.
- R5 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group,
- y and z each represent an integer from 1 to 3
- R6 and R7 represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl or propyl group
- Re and Rg represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group such that the sum of the carbon atoms in R 10 and Rn does not exceed 10.
- the polymers comprising such units may also comprise units derived from non- zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides or vinyl acetate.
- R10 represents a group of formula (IX):
- Rn , R 12 and R 13 which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue that are optionally interrupted with one or more nitrogen atoms and/or optionally substituted with one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio or sulfonic groups, an alkylthio residue in which the alkyl group bears an amino residue, at least one of the groups Rn , Ri2 and R1 3 being, in this case, a hydrogen atom;
- Rn , R12 and R1 3 each represent a hydrogen atom, and also the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids.
- RM represents a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 O, CH 3 CH2O, or phenyl group
- R1 5 denotes hydrogen or a C1-C4 alkyl group such as methyl and ethyl
- R1 6 denotes hydrogen or a C1-C4 alkyl group such as methyl and ethyl
- R1 7 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl group such as methyl and ethyl or a group corresponding to the formula: -Ri8-N(Ri6)2, with R18 representing a -CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH2-CH2-, or -CH2-CH(CH3)- group and R16 having the meanings given above,
- E or E’ denotes the symbol E or E’, where E or E’, which may be identical or different, denote a divalent group that is an alkylene group with a straight or branched chain containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted with hydroxyl groups and which can comprise, in addition to oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms, 1 to 3 aromatic and/or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulfoxide, sulfone, sulfonium, alkylamine or alkenylamine groups, hydroxyl, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide, alcohol, ester and/or urethane groups.
- E or E’ which may be identical or different, denote a divalent group that is an alkylene group with a straight or branched chain containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain,
- E denotes the symbol E or E’ and at least once E’;
- E having the meaning given above and E’ is a divalent group that is an alkylene group with a straight or branched chain containing up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, which is unsubstituted or substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and which contains one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted with an alkyl chain that is optionally interrupted with an oxygen atom and necessarily comprising one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions, betainized by reaction with chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate.
- nonionic units derived from at least one monomer chosen from C1-C20 alkyl (meth)acrylates, N-mono-(C2-Ci2 alkyl)(meth)acrylamides and N,N-di(C2-Ci2 alkyl)(meth)acrylamides,
- amphoteric polymers are polymers comprising units derived:
- the nonionic fixing polymers that may be used according to the present invention are chosen, for example, from:
- styrene copolymers for instance copolymers of styrene and of alkyl (meth)acrylate, such as the products Mowilith® LDM 691 1 , Mowilith® DM 61 1 and Mowilith® LDM 6070 sold by the company Hoechst, and the products Rhodopas® SD 215 and Rhodopas® DS 910 sold by the company Rhone-Poulenc; copolymers of styrene, of alkyl methacrylate and of alkyl acrylate; copolymers of styrene and of butadiene; or copolymers of styrene, of butadiene and of vinylpyridine,
- vinyllactam homopolymers such as vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers and the polyvinylcaprolactam sold under the name Luviskol® Plus by the company BASF,
- vinyllactam copolymers such as a poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyllactam) copolymer sold under the trade name Luvitec® VPC 55K65W by the company BASF, poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate) copolymers, such as those sold under the name PVPVA® S630L by the company ISP, Luviskol® VA 73, VA 64, VA 55, VA 37 and VA 28 by the company BASF; and poly(vinylpyrrolidone/vinyl acetate/vinyl propionate) terpolymers, for instance the product sold under the name Luviskol® VAP 343 by the company BASF, and
- the fixing polymer(s) are chosen from anionic fixing polymers and amphoteric fixing polymers, and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the fixing polymer(s) are chosen from amphoteric fixing polymers such as those described above, and more preferentially from polymers comprising units derived a) from at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom with an alkyl group, b) from at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more carboxylic groups, and c) from at least one comonomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom.
- the content of amphoteric fixing polymer(s) and especially of the polymer(s) comprising units derived a) from at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom with an alkyl group, b) from at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more carboxylic groups, and c) from at least one comonomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom that are present in the composition is between 0.01 % and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.1 % and 15% by weight, and more preferentially between 0.2% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention also comprises one or more microbead(s) of at least one wax and/or of at least one thermoplastic polymer other than the fixing polymers.
- Merobeads denotes particles having a volume-average size varying from 1 to 50 microns, in particular from 1 pm to 40 pm, and more particularly from 2 pm to 30 pm.
- Volume-average size denotes the dimension given by statistical particle size distribution for half the population, referred to as Dv,50.
- the size of the particles may be determined by laser diffraction granulometry, for example using an N5 or LS 230 or Mastersizer 2000 laser particle size analyzer.
- the term“wax” means a lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, which has a melting point of greater than or equal to 60°C, which may be up to 160°C or even 200°C.
- the particles of wax constituting one of the characteristics of the present invention are in a micronized form.
- micronized wax or“microwax” are intended to mean a wax in the form of a powder, the particles of which have a number- average size ranging from 0.5 to 50 pm, preferably ranging from 1 to 30 pm, or even ranging from 3 to 20 pm.
- microwaxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes that are solid and rigid at room temperature (25°C), of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
- the microwaxes according to the invention have a melting point ranging from 60°C to 160°C, in particular greater than or equal to 80°C, especially ranging from 80°C to 150°C, or even from 80°C to 100°C.
- the melting point of the microwax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company Mettler.
- D.S.C. differential scanning calorimeter
- a sample of 15 mg of product placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise passing from 0°C to 160°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 160°C to 0°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise passing from 0°C to 160°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
- the variation of the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of product is measured as a function of the temperature.
- the melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
- the temperature of the composition during the manufacturing process does not exceed a temperature less than 30°C relative to the melting point of the microwax.
- micronized waxes used in the present application may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based and/or fluorinated micronized waxes, optionally comprising ester, amide, acid or hydroxyl functions.
- beeswax are especially of natural origin and may be chosen from optionally modified beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, montan wax, hydrogenated oils such as hydrogenated jojoba oil or hydrogenated castor oil or oil resulting from the polymerization of ethylene and/or propylene, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, esters and amides of fatty acids, silicone waxes such as alkyls, alkoxys and/or esters of poly(di)methylsiloxane that are solid at room temperature (25°C), having from 10 to 45 carbon atoms, fatty acids such as stearic or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof.
- the micronized waxes under consideration according to the invention have a number-average molecular mass of between 300 and 10 000 g/mol and preferably between 400 and 3000 g/mol.
- microwaxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made especially of:
- microwaxes such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350 ® by the company Micro Powders,
- microwaxes such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 1 14S ® by the company Micro Powders,
- microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as the products sold under the names MicroCare 300 ® and 310 ® by the company Micro Powders,
- microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and polylactic acid, such as the product sold under the name Ecosoft 61 1 ® by the company Micro Powders,
- microwaxes constituted of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 325 ® by the company Micro Powders,
- microwaxes such as the products sold under the names MicroPoly 200 ® , 220 ® , 220L ® and 250S ® by the company Micro Powders, and the products sold under the name Cerapure H5-C by the company Shamrock,
- microwaxes constituted of a mixture of polyethylene, synthetic mineral wax and polytetrafluoroethylene, such as the products sold under the names Micropoly 2001 ® and Microsilk 418 by the company Micro Powders,
- Carnauba microwaxes are most particularly suitable for use in the invention, and especially those sold by Micro Powders under the name MicroCare.
- a composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one carnauba microwax, for example the product sold under the name MicroCare 350 ® by the company Micro Powders.
- the microbeads may also be constituted of one or more thermoplastic polymers.
- homopolymers they may more particularly be chosen from homopolymers constituted of the following monomers:
- Monomers the homopolymers of which have glass transition temperatures of greater than or equal to 40°C are chosen, preferably, from the following monomers:
- R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as a methyl, ethyl, propyl or isobutyl group, said alkyl group also optionally being able to be substituted with one or more substituents chosen from hydroxyl groups and halogen atoms (Cl, Br, I, F), or R1 represents a C4 to C12 cycloalkyl group,
- R2 represents a C4 to C12 cycloalkyl group such as isobornyl acrylate or a tert- butyl group
- R7 and R8, which are identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1 to C12 alkyl group such as an n-butyl, t-butyl, isopropyl, isohexyl, isooctyl or isononyl group; or R7 represents H and R8 represents a 1 , 1 -dimethyl-3- oxobutyl group, and
- R’ denotes H or methyl.
- monomers that may be mentioned include N- butylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-isopropylacrylamide, N,N- dimethylacrylamide and N,N-dibutylacrylamide,
- Particularly preferred monomers are methyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, isobornyl (meth)acrylate, triufluoroethyl methacrylate, styrene, and mixtures thereof.
- thermoplastic polymers are chosen from polyolefins such as polyethylenes and polypropylenes, polyamides, polyethers, polyurethanes or copolymers of these compounds.
- the content of microbead(s) of at least one wax and/or of at least one thermoplastic polymer other than the fixing polymers, and in particular of microbeads of wax present in the composition is preferably between 0.1 % and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.2% and 15% by weight, and more preferentially between 0.5% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention may especially comprise a content of microbeads of wax of between 0.1 % and 20% by weight, in particular between 0.2% and 15% by weight and more particularly between 0.5% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the weight ratio between the total content of fixing polymer(s) and the total content of microbead(s) of at least one wax and/or of at least one thermoplastic polymer is greater than or equal to 0.5; preferably, this ratio ranges from 0.5 to 6 and more preferentially from 0.5 to 5.
- composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more organic solvents.
- an organic solvent is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
- the organic solvent(s) are chosen from linear or branched monoalcohols containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, polyols, polyethylene glycols, aromatic alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
- the organic solvent(s) are chosen from ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof. Even more preferentially, the organic solvent(s) are chosen from ethanol, dipropylene glycol and benzyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
- the composition according to the invention comprises one or more organic solvents, more preferentially one or more organic solvents chosen from ethanol, dipropylene glycol, benzyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.
- the total content thereof ranges from 10% to 95% by weight, more preferentially from 20% to 90% by weight and even more preferentially from 30% to 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention is anhydrous.
- anhydrous means that the composition according to the invention comprises no water, or that the total water content is less than or equal to 0.1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
- the composition comprises water and/or an organic solvent.
- the pH of the composition generally varies from 3 to 12, preferably from 4 to 1 1 , preferentially from 5 to 10 and better still from 6 to 9.
- the pH of the composition may be adjusted to the desired value by means of basifying agents especially as described previously or of acidifying agents that are usually used.
- acidifying agents examples that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid or sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and lactic acid, and sulfonic acids.
- the composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more propellants.
- the propellant(s) that may be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from liquefied gases such as dimethyl ether, chlorinated and/or fluorinated hydrocarbons such as trichlorofluoromethane, dichlorodifluoromethane, chlorodifluoromethane, 1 ,1 ,1 ,2-tetrafluoroethane, chloropentafluoroethane, 1 -chloro- 1 ,1 -difluoroethane or 1 ,1 -difluoroethane, or volatile hydrocarbons especially such as C3- C5 alkanes, for instance propane, isopropane, n-butane, isobutane or pentane.
- liquefied gases such as dimethyl ether, chlorinated and/or fluorinated hydrocarbons such as trichlorofluoromethane, dichlorodifluoromethane, chlorodifluoromethane, 1
- the propellant(s) are chosen from volatile, optionally halogenated hydrocarbons, for example n-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane and halogenated derivatives thereof; dimethyl ether; and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from dimethyl ether, C3-C5 alkanes, in particular propane, n-butane and isobutane, and mixtures thereof.
- volatile, optionally halogenated hydrocarbons for example n-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane and halogenated derivatives thereof; dimethyl ether; and mixtures thereof; more preferentially from dimethyl ether, C3-C5 alkanes, in particular propane, n-butane and isobutane, and mixtures thereof.
- the total content thereof is between 1 % and 90% by weight, more preferentially between 10% and 80% by weight, even more preferentially between 20% and 70% by weight, better still between 30% and 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the present invention may optionally also comprise one or more organic alkaline agents.
- the organic alkaline agent(s) are chosen from organic amines with a pKb at 25°C of less than 12, more preferentially less than 10 and even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the function of highest basicity.
- the organic amines do not comprise any alkyl or alkenyl fatty chain comprising more than ten carbon atoms.
- the organic alkaline agent(s) are preferably chosen from alkanolamines, in particular mono-, di- or tri- hydroxy(C1 -C6)alkylamines, such as 2-amino-2- methylpropanol, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids, the polyamines of formula (XIII) below, and mixtures thereof:
- amines of formula (XIII) examples include 1 ,3- diaminopropane, 1 ,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.
- alkanolamine is intended to mean an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C1 to C8 alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.
- Organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different C1 -C4 hydroxyalkyl radicals are in particular suitable for performing the invention.
- MAA monoethanolamine
- diethanolamine triethanolamine
- monoisopropanolamine diisopropanolamine
- N,N-dimethylethanolamine 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol
- triisopropanolamine 2- amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol
- 2-propanediol 3-amino-1 ,2-propanediol
- 3-dimethylamino-1 ,2- propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane.
- amino acids that may be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D or racemic form, and include at least one acid function chosen more particularly from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid and phosphoric acid functions.
- the amino acids may be in neutral or ionic form.
- amino acids that may be used in the present invention, mention may especially be made of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.
- the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function.
- Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from those corresponding to formula (XIV) below, and also salts thereof:
- R represents a group chosen from imidazolyl, preferably imidazolyl-4-yl; aminopropyl; aminoethyl; -(CH2)2N(H)-C(0)-NH2; and -(CH2)2-N(H)- C(NH)-NH2.
- the organic amine may also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole.
- the organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides.
- amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made especially of carnosine, anserine and balenine.
- the organic amine may also be chosen from compounds including a guanidine function.
- amines of this type that may be used in the present invention, besides arginine, which has already been mentioned as an amino acid, mention may be made in particular of creatine, creatinine, 1 ,1 -dimethylguanidine, 1 , 1 -diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4- guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1 -sulfonic acid.
- the alkaline agent(s) that are useful in the invention are chosen from aqueous ammonia, alkanolamines, amino acids in neutral or ionic form, in particular basic amino acids, and preferably corresponding to those of formula (VIII).
- the organic alkaline agent(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2- methyl-1 -propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol, 3-amino- 1 ,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1 ,2-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane, and mixtures thereof; more preferentially, the organic alkaline agent is 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol.
- the total content of the organic alkaline agent(s) is between 0.05% and 10% by weight, more preferentially between 0.1 % and 5% by weight, and even more preferentially between 0.2% and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise one or more additives, for instance anticaking agents, natural or synthetic thickeners or viscosity regulators other than the fixing polymers described previously; vitamins or provitamins; silicones; preserving agents; dyes; fragrances.
- additives for instance anticaking agents, natural or synthetic thickeners or viscosity regulators other than the fixing polymers described previously; vitamins or provitamins; silicones; preserving agents; dyes; fragrances.
- additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Another subject of the present invention is the use of the composition as described previously, for hair shaping and/or hairstyle hold.
- Another subject of the present invention is a process for hair shaping and/or hairstyle hold, comprising at least one step of applying, to dry or wet hair, a composition as described above, to be rinsed off or not after an optional leave-on time or after optional drying.
- the hair is not rinsed after the step(s) of applying the composition according to the invention.
- the composition is applied to dry hair.
- the process of the invention may also comprise a step of heat treatment of the hair, preferably at a temperature ranging from 40°C to 250°C, preferably from 60°C to 250°C.
- This heat treatment step is generally performed using a heating tool such as a straightening iron, a curling iron, a crimping iron, a waving iron, a steam iron, a hood, a hairdryer, an infrared heating system or a heating roller.
- a heating tool such as a straightening iron, a curling iron, a crimping iron, a waving iron, a steam iron, a hood, a hairdryer, an infrared heating system or a heating roller.
- the process according to the invention may also comprise a step of shaping the hair.
- the step of shaping the hair may be a blow-drying operation.
- the step of shaping the hair may be a straightening/relaxing step or else a step for curling the hair.
- This shaping step can be carried out by means of curlers, a curling iron or a straightening iron (also called flat tongs).
- the shaping step is carried out by means of an iron, it can be carried out at a temperature of at least 100°C.
- the iron is used at a temperature of at least 100°C, preferably at a temperature between, limits included, 100°C and 300°C, preferably between 120°C and 280°C, more preferably between 150°C and 250°C, and better still between 200 and 250°C.
- Another subject of the present invention relates to an aerosol device comprising a composition as described previously.
- the aerosol device is intended for treating the hair, more preferentially intended for hair shaping and/or hairstyling.
- composition according to the invention is advantageously packaged under pressure, in an aerosol device, for example a monobloc device, which comprises a means for spraying the composition, and a container.
- aerosol device for example a monobloc device, which comprises a means for spraying the composition, and a container.
- the spraying means is generally constituted of a dispensing valve controlled by a dispensing head, which itself comprises a nozzle via which the composition of the invention is sprayed.
- the container containing the pressurized composition may be opaque or transparent. It may be made of glass, polymer or metal, and may optionally be coated with a protective varnish coat.
- compositions according to the invention were prepared from the following ingredients, the contents of which are indicated in the tables below (as g of active material).
- compositions A1 and A2 are applied to 3 volunteers at an amount of 2 to 3 g per half-head on short, dry hair.
- the compositions make it possible to provide fixing to the hair and a repositionable or remodelable effect. They also provide substance and body, and fine strand separation. It is also observed that, after passage of the fingers, the crispy coating is reduced in particular for composition A1 , and the result becomes more natural and the hair becomes more shiny than after the application.
- compositions A1 and A2 were also applied to 3 other volunteers at an amount of 2 to 3 g per half-head on short, dry hair.
- the compositions of the invention make it possible to achieve the same degree of styling, repositionable effect, form retention of the hairstyle, body and substance as a styling paste comprising a fixing polymer, applied in parallel to the other half-head.
- the application of compositions A1 and A2 provides better instant shaping with less impediment, and no residue.
- compositions A1 and A2 do not stick to the fingers, unlike the paste.
- the compositions immediately give a lacquered effect to the head of hair which appears to be more fixed than with the paste. After passage of the fingers, this effect is softened and the visual appearance becomes natural, in particular for composition A1.
- compositions A1 and A2 were also applied to 3 volunteers at an amount of 2 to 2.7 g per half-head on long, dry hair which had been curled using a curling iron beforehand.
- Compositions A1 and A2 make it possible to instantly achieve a“beachy wave” effect, that is to say natural, imperfect waves such as those obtained after bathing in the sea. After drying the products, good form retention of the hairstyle is obtained, and a styled/messy effect is still observed. After passage of the fingers, the hairstyle retains shape well, the hair has body, a styled effect and there is very little transfer of product to the hands. The curls are bouncy, and the sheen of the hair is increased after passage of the fingers, in particular for composition A1.
- compositions according to the invention A1 -A2 and comparatives compositions B1 -B3 were prepared from the following ingredients, the contents of which are indicated in the tables below (as g of active material).
- Compositions A1 -A2 and B1 -B3 are packaged in 150ml_ aerosol devices equipped with a stirring metallic ball (diameter: 6mm) and with the same conventional spraying means (powder valve: NRK 250P RA 884/4/8 T200LPS; dispensing head: DSCO-425 Coster 060 D0124 V04.776 BC/BC, sold by Coster Company).
- compositions A1-A2 and B1-B3 are then sprayed from top to bottom on 2.7g natural dry locks (0.4 g of each composition per lock). After a drying time of 10 min at room temperature, the performances in terms of shine and clean feel is evaluated by 5 experts, on the dried hair, in a blind test.
- each lock is slipped along between the index finger and the middle finger, from the root to tip, and the light's reflection on the hair’s curve is valued.
- Each expert has appressed each lock on a scale ranging from 0 (very bad) to 5 (very shiny).
- the clean feel assessment is to evaluate the feel variation on a scale ranging from 0 (non- greasy, meaning very clean) to 5 (very greasy).
- Each lock is grabbed between the thumb and the index finger and the fingers are slipped from the top of the locks all the way down to the ends of the locks to assess the presence of a potential deposit.
- the assessment of greasy/crispy coating is also evaluated by the observation or the feel of a product transfer to the fingers.
- compositions A1-A2 according to the invention were much shiny and had a significantly cleaner feel than those treated with comparatives compositions B1-B3.
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Abstract
La présente invention concerne une composition comprenant:-un ou plusieurs polymères fixants;-une ou plusieurs microbilles d'au moins une cire et/ou d'au moins un polymère thermoplastique autre que les polymères fixants,-éventuellement un ou plusieurs agents propulseurs.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR1763242 | 2017-12-27 | ||
FR1763242A FR3075629B1 (fr) | 2017-12-27 | 2017-12-27 | Composition comprenant des microbilles de cire et/ou de polymere thermoplastique et un polymere fixant |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
WO2019129700A1 true WO2019129700A1 (fr) | 2019-07-04 |
Family
ID=62222775
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
PCT/EP2018/086554 WO2019129700A1 (fr) | 2017-12-27 | 2018-12-21 | Composition comprenant des microbilles de cire, un agent propulseur et un polymère fixant |
Country Status (2)
Country | Link |
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FR (1) | FR3075629B1 (fr) |
WO (1) | WO2019129700A1 (fr) |
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EP2033618A1 (fr) * | 2007-08-30 | 2009-03-11 | Wella Aktiengesellschaft | Produit de coiffage sans rinçage avec des particules pour améliorer le volume des cheveux |
US9408785B2 (en) * | 2012-10-15 | 2016-08-09 | L'oreal | Hair styling compositions containing aqueous wax dispersions |
US10561596B2 (en) * | 2014-04-11 | 2020-02-18 | L'oreal | Compositions and dispersions containing particles comprising a polymer |
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- 2017-12-27 FR FR1763242A patent/FR3075629B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
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US2047398A (en) | 1930-06-26 | 1936-07-14 | Ig Farbenindustrie Ag | Artificial resins and process of making them |
US2102113A (en) | 1934-10-24 | 1937-12-14 | Djordjevitch Yesdimir | Carburetor |
US2723248A (en) | 1954-10-01 | 1955-11-08 | Gen Aniline & Film Corp | Film-forming compositions |
GB839805A (en) | 1957-06-10 | 1960-06-29 | Monsanto Chemicals | Sprayable compositions |
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FR1580545A (fr) | 1967-07-28 | 1969-09-05 | ||
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FR2393573A1 (fr) | 1977-06-10 | 1979-01-05 | Gaf Corp | Preparations capillaires contenant un copolymere de vinylpyrrolidone |
FR2439798A1 (fr) | 1978-10-27 | 1980-05-23 | Oreal | Nouveaux copolymeres utilisables en cosmetique, notamment dans des laques et lotions de mises en plis |
US5658552A (en) * | 1994-06-20 | 1997-08-19 | Goldwell Gmbh | Hair spray composition containing a water-dispersible silicone wax |
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Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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FR3075629A1 (fr) | 2019-06-28 |
FR3075629B1 (fr) | 2020-05-22 |
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