WO2019127001A1 - Composition pour soins de matières kératiniques, procédé et utilisation - Google Patents

Composition pour soins de matières kératiniques, procédé et utilisation Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2019127001A1
WO2019127001A1 PCT/CN2017/118567 CN2017118567W WO2019127001A1 WO 2019127001 A1 WO2019127001 A1 WO 2019127001A1 CN 2017118567 W CN2017118567 W CN 2017118567W WO 2019127001 A1 WO2019127001 A1 WO 2019127001A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
alcohol
weight
mixture
alkyl
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CN2017/118567
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Di SHEN
Yong Wang
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to PCT/CN2017/118567 priority Critical patent/WO2019127001A1/fr
Priority to CN201780097981.8A priority patent/CN111542307B/zh
Publication of WO2019127001A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019127001A1/fr

Links

Images

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31—Anhydrous

Definitions

  • compositions that provide good cleaning and/or makeup removal ability, and good sensory to the skin.
  • the compositions provide a warming effect to the skin and are therefore useful for deep cleaning and/or makeup removing of the skin.
  • soft solid compositions constitute a category of products that are appreciated by consumers for their efficacy on cleansing, makeup removability, rinse ability, and for their cosmetic qualities (soft, dry feeling, easy to use, etc.) . They are known as solid compositions that soften under the effect of a stress such as spreading over the surface of the skin or, for example, by extrusion through a device with a perforated wall (grille) .
  • compositions of “soft solid” type that are used for cleansing of the skin and/or the removal of makeups, which leave the skin without any residue and with a fresh skin finish, and meanwhile, are easy to apply on the skin.
  • Some known soft solid compositions useful for the cleansing of the skin and/or the removal of makeup comprise silica aerogel particles, waxes, hydrocarbon-based oils and non-ionic surfactants.
  • warming cleansers are popular thanks to its ability in opening up pores and therefore deep cleansing of the skin.
  • One major technology for the warming cleansers on the market is the use of inorganic salts or zeolites which break down when in contact with water, producing an exothermic reaction.
  • the reaction of salts with water is so violent that it often offers an uncomfortable and immediate over-warming, which does not last and as controlled as expected.
  • the unique use experience refers to a transformation of a solid composition to a liquid oily composition of the composition of the present invention during application on a keratin material, in particular the skin.
  • An objective of the present invention is to provide a solid composition for caring for a keratin material, overcoming the above technical problems.
  • the invention aims to provide deep clean effect for a composition for caring for a keratin material, in particular for cleansing and/or removing makeup of the skin.
  • the invention aims to provide a composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup of a keratin material, providing a good foaming during application.
  • the invention aims to provide a composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup of a keratin material, providing a good skin sensory after application.
  • the inventors found a combination of at least 20%by weight of at least one specific polyethylene glycol, at least one solid fatty alcohol, and at least one specific surfactant can achieve the aims of the present invention.
  • the present invention provides warming effect.
  • warming effect we intend to mean a perceivable temperature raise on the keratin materials when the composition of the present invention is applied on as a cleanser.
  • skin sensory it means fresh, watery, and mildness sensory after application of the composition of the present invention.
  • keratin material is understood to mean the skin, the nails, or the mucous membranes, and, in at least one embodiment, refers to the skin.
  • the invention also aims to provide a composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup of a keratin material with good foaming property.
  • the invention also aims to provide such compositions with good stability upon storage.
  • stability we intend to mean a composition that does not undergo any significant change in its structure or properties for at least one month after its manufacture and especially for at least two months after its manufacture.
  • the present invention also relates to a process for caring for a keratin material, in particular cleansing and/or removing makeup of the skin, wherein the composition according to the present invention is applied to the keratin material, in particular to the skin.
  • Figure 1 shows the temperature raise and time duration of the temperature raise when mixing water with PEG-8, glycerin, and propylene glycol, respectively.
  • composition according to the present invention is a solid composition for caring for a keratin material, comprising, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • At least one surfactant chosen from amphoteric or zwitteronic surfactants, anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, or a mixture thereof.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises at least 20%by weight of at least one polyethylene glycol containing from 4 to 30 -CH 2 CH 2 O-groups.
  • polyethylene glycols also known as PEG are polyether compounds with a structure of formula (A) ,
  • n is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.
  • polyethylene glycols can be made of, for example, PEG-4, which is sold by the company BP with the trade name Breox PEG 200, PEG-6, which is sold by the company Dow Chemical under the trade name Carbowax Sentry PEG 300, PEG-8 (or polyethylene 400) , which is sold by the company BASF under the trade name E 400, PEG-12 sold by the company Dow Chemical under the name Carbowax Sentry Polyethylene Glycol 600NF, FCC Grade, PEG-20 sold by the company Dow Chemical under the name Carbowax Sentry Polyethylene Glycol 1000 NF, FCC Grade, or a mixture thereof.
  • PEG-4 which is sold by the company BP with the trade name Breox PEG 200
  • PEG-6 which is sold by the company Dow Chemical under the trade name Carbowax Sentry PEG 300
  • PEG-8 or polyethylene 400
  • E 400 polyethylene 400
  • PEG-12 sold by the company Dow Chemical under the name Carbowax Sentry Polyethylene Glycol 600NF, FCC Grade
  • the polyethylene glycols that are suitable for the present invention comprises from 6 to 20, more preferably from 8 to 12 -CH 2 CH 2 O-groups.
  • PEG-8 is used in the present invention.
  • the polyethylene glycol is present in an amount ranging from 20%to 90%by weight, preferably from 30%to 70%by weight, more preferably from 40%to 60%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention comprises at least one solid fatty alcohol.
  • fatty alcohol means a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 34 or even from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and comprising at least one hydroxyl group OH. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.
  • the “solid fatty alcohols” are solid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (780 mmHg or 1 atm.) ; they are water-insoluble, i.e. they have a solubility in water of less than 1%by mass and preferably less than 0.5%by weight.
  • the solid fatty alcohols are of structure R-OH with R denoting a saturated or unsaturated, linear hydrocarbon group, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups, comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the solid fatty alcohols used in the present invention are selected from fatty alcohols having from 12 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • Mentions may be made of, as solid fatty alcohols, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol (1-tetradecanol) , cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol) , palmitoleyl alcohol (cis-9-hexadecen-1-ol) , stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol) , arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol) , behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol) , erucyl alcohol (cis-13-docosen-1-ol) , lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol) , ceryl alcohol (1-hexacosanol) , myricyl alcohol, or melissyl alcohol (1-triacontanol) .
  • the solid fatty alcohol is selected from alcohols having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol) , stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol) , arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol) , behenyl alcohol (1-docosanol) , or a mixture thereof.
  • the solid fatty alcohol is selected from cetyl alcohol (1-hexadecanol) , stearyl alcohol (1-octadecanol) , or a mixture thereof.
  • fatty alcohols may be made of cetyl alcohol sold under the name Lanette 16 by the company BASF.
  • the fatty alcohols may be mixtures, which means, for example, that several species may coexist in a commercial product, especially of different chain lengths, in the form of a mixture.
  • Mentions of such mixture of fatty alcohols may be made of cetearyl alcohol sold under the name O Or by BASF, wherein containing predominantly a mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol.
  • the solid fatty alcohol is present in an amount ranging from 1%to 20%, preferably from 2%to 10%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention comprises at least one surfactant chosen from amphoteric or zwitteronic surfactants, anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, or a mixture thereof.
  • these surfactants are chosen for their foaming and cleansing properties.
  • the surfactants may be chosen from amphoteric or zwitteronic surfactants.
  • amphoteric or zwitteronic surfactants that may be used in the invention may be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
  • betaine (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylbetaines, (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylsulfobetaines, (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylamido (C 1 -C 6 ) alkylbetaines, such as co-camidopropylbetaine, and (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylamido (C 1 -C 6 )alkylsulfobetaines, and mixtures thereof.
  • R a represents a C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R a -COOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl group, a nonyl group or an undecyl group,
  • R b represents a ⁇ -hydroxyethyl group
  • R c represents a carboxymethyl group
  • n 0, 1 or 2
  • Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group
  • B represents -CH2CH2OX′, with X′ representing -CH 2 -COOH, CH 2 -COOZ’, CH 2 CH 2 -COOH, -CH 2 CH 2 -COOZ’, or a hydrogen atom,
  • n′ is equal to 0, 1 or 2
  • Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group
  • Z’ represents an ion resulting from an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane,
  • an alkali or alkaline-earth metal such as sodium, potassium or magnesium
  • an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine and in particular from an amino alcohol, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, 2-amino
  • R a′ represents a C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a′ COOH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C 17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C 17 group.
  • compositions corresponding to formula (A2) are disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caproamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroam-phodipropionate, disodium caproamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodi-propionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoampho dipropionic acid.
  • cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name C2M Concentrate
  • sodium cocoamphoacetate sold under the trade name Miranol Ultra C 32
  • product sold by the company Chimex under the trade name CHIMEXANE HA.
  • R a′′ represents a C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a′′ -C (O) OH preferably present in hydrolysed linseed oil or coconut oil;
  • -Y′’ represents the group-C (O) OH, -C (O) OZ”, -CH 2 -CH (OH) -SO 3 H or the group CH 2 -CH (OH) -SO 3 -Z”, with Z” representing a cationic counterion resulting from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion resulting from an organic amine;
  • R -R d and R e represent, independently of each other, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical
  • n and n′ denote, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 1 to 3.
  • the amphoteric or zwitteronic surfactants are chosen from (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylbetaines, (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylamido (C 1 -C 6 ) alkylbetaines, (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylamphoacetates and (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylamphodiacetates, and mixtures thereof, preferably (C 8 -C 20 ) alkylamido (C 1 -C 6 ) alkylbetaines, and specially cocoamidopropylbetaine.
  • the surfactants may be chosen from anionic surfactants.
  • anionic surfactant means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
  • a species is termed as being "anionic" when it bears at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized as a negatively charged species, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention (for example the medium or the pH) and not comprising any cationic charge.
  • the anionic surfactants may be sulfate, sulfonate and/or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. Needless to say, a mixture of these surfactants may be used.
  • -carboxylate anionic surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO - ) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate functions;
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 - ) and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not comprise any carboxylate functions; and
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function but do not comprise any carboxylate or sulfonate functions.
  • the carboxylic anionic surfactants that may be used thus comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO - ) .
  • They may be chosen from the following compounds: amino acid anionic surfactants; alkyl-D-galactosideuronic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl (C 6-30 aryl) ether carboxylic acids, alkylamido ether carboxylic acids; and also the salts of these compounds;
  • alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, especially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;
  • these compounds optionally being polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • C 6 -C 24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycosidepolycarboxylic acids such as C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycosidecitrates, C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycosidetartrates and C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycosidesulfosuccinates, and salts thereof.
  • said anionic amino acid surfactant is derived from a carboxylate salt of amino acid wherein the amine group situated on the ⁇ -carbon or ⁇ -carbon of an amino acid salt is acylated with a C 8 to C 22 fatty acid derivative.
  • the carboxylate salts of these amino acids can be formed by conventional means such as by neutralization of the respective amino acid with a base.
  • the amine group situated on the ⁇ -carbon or ⁇ -carbon of the neutralized amino acid is acylated with a fatty acid halide (acyl halide) in the presence of a base via the well-known Schotten-Baumann reaction giving the amide, thus forming the desired surfactant reaction product, i.e. the amino acid surfactant.
  • Suitable acyl halides for acylation of the amino acid carboxylate salt include acyl chlorides, bromides, fluorides, and iodides.
  • the acyl halides can be prepared by reacting a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 to C 22 fatty acid with a thionyl halide (bromide, chloride, fluoride, and iodide) .
  • a thionyl halide bromide, chloride, fluoride, and iodide
  • acyl halides include but are not limited to the acyl chlorides selected from decanoyl chloride, dodecanoyl chloride (lauroyl chloride) , cocoyl chloride (coconut oil derived fatty acid chlorides) tetradecanoyl chloride (myristoyl chloride) , hexadecanoyl chloride (palmitoyl chloride) , octadecanoyl chloride (stearoyl chloride) , 9-octadecenoyl chloride (oleoyl chloride) , eicosanoyl chloride (arachidoyl chloride) , docosanoyl chloride (behenoyl chloride) , and any mixture thereof.
  • acyl halides include the bromides, fluorides and iodides of the foregoing fatty acids.
  • a method for preparing acyl halides as well as an alternative method for acylating amino acids is set forth in US Patent Application Publication No. 2008/0200704, published on August 21, 2008, which application is incorporated herein by reference.
  • said amino acid surfactant is represented by the formula (I) :
  • Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms
  • X is hydrogen or methyl group
  • n 0 or 1
  • Y is selected from hydrogen, -CH 3 , -CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH 2 CH (CH 3 ) 2 , -CH (CH 3 ) CH 2 CH 3 , -CH 2 C 6 H 5 , -CH 2 C 2 H 4 OH, -CH 2 OH, -CH (OH) CH 3 , - (CH 2 ) 4 NH 2 , - (CH 2 ) 3 NHC (NH) NH 2 , -CH 2 C (O) O - M + , - (CH 2 ) 2 C (O) OH, - (CH 2 ) 2 C (O) O - M + , and
  • M is a salt-forming cation wherein COO is the counter-anion, such as for example sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.
  • Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 to C 22 alkyl group
  • X is a hydrogen or methyl group
  • n 0,
  • Y is selected from hydrogen, - (CH 2 ) 2 C (O) OH, - (CH 2 ) 2 C (O) O - M + , and
  • M is a salt-forming cation wherein COO is the counter-anion, such as for example sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.
  • amino acid surfactants are salt of alanine, arginine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, phenylalanine, serine, tyrosine, valine, sarcosine, and any mixture thereof.
  • amino acid surfactants such as dipotassium capryloyl glutamate, dipotassium undecylenoyl glutamate, disodium capryloyl glutamate, disodium cocoyl glutamate, disodium lauroyl glutamate, disodium stearoyl glutamate, disodium undecylenoyl glutamate, potassium capryloyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glutamate, potassium lauroyl glutamate, potassium myristoyl glutamate, potassium stearoyl glutamate, potassium undecylenoyl glutamate, sodium capryloyl glutamate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium olivoyl glutamate, sodium palmitoyl glutamate, sodium stearoyl glutamate, sodium undecylenoyl glutamate, cocoyl methyl ⁇ -alaninate,
  • Z represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear C 8 to C 22 alkyl group
  • X is a hydrogen or methyl group
  • n 0,
  • Y is selected from hydrogen, or - (CH 2 ) 2 C (O) OH, and
  • M is a salt-forming cation wherein COO is the counter-anion, such as for example sodium, potassium, ammonium, or triethanolamine.
  • acylsarcosinates for instance the sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name Sarkosyl NL by the company Ciba or sold under the name Oramix L by the company SEPPIC, the sodium myristoyl sarcosinate sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate by the company Nikkol or the sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate by the company Nikkol; alaninates, for instance the sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN by the company Nikkol or sold under the name Alanone by the company Kawaken, and the N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine triethanolamine sold under the name Alanone by the company Kawaken; N-acylglutamates, for instance sodium lauroyl glutamate sold under the name LS 11 by the company
  • carboxylic surfactants mention may also be made of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids and salts thereof, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide and in particular ethylene oxide groups, such as the compounds sold by the company Kao under the name Akypo,
  • polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids that may be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1) :
  • R 1 represents a linear or branched C 6 -C 24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, an alkyl (C 8 -C 9 ) phenyl radical, a radical R 2 CONH-CH 2 -CH 2 -with R 2 denoting a linear or branched C 9 -C 21 alkyl or alkenyl radical,
  • R 1 is a C 8 -C 20 and preferably C 8 -C 18 alkyl radical, and aryl preferably denotes phenyl,
  • -n is an integer or decimal number (average value) ranging from 2 to 24 and preferably from 2 to 10,
  • -A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanola-mine residue.
  • mixtures of compounds of formula (1) in particular mixtures of compounds containing different groups R 1 .
  • polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids that are particularly preferred are those of formula (1) in which:
  • -R 1 denotes a C 12 -C 14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical,
  • -A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom
  • -n varies from 2 to 20 and preferably from 2 to 10.
  • R 1 denotes a C 12 alkyl radical
  • A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom
  • n ranges from 2 to 10.
  • carboxylic anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • -acylsarcosinates especially of C 6 -C 24 or even C 12 -C 20 ;
  • alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular, in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO 3 H or -SO 3 - ) .
  • alkylsulfonates alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, ⁇ -olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, N-acyltaurates, acylisethionates; alkylsulfolaurates; and also the salts of these compounds;
  • alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, es-pecially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • the sulfonate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants that may be used comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO 3 H or -OSO 3 - ) .
  • alkyl sulfates alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; and also the salts of these compounds;
  • alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, es-pecially from 12 to 28, better still from 14 to 24 or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds possibly being polyoxyalkylenated, especially polyoxyethylenated, and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units and better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.
  • the sulfate anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • -alkyl ether sulfates especially of C 6 -C 24 or even C 12 -C 20 , preferably comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units; in particular, in the form of alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • the said salt may be chosen from alkali metal salts, such as the sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts, and alkaline-earth metal salts, such as the magnesium salt.
  • amino alcohol salts examples include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol salts and tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane salts.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
  • the anionic surfactants are chosen, alone or as a mixture, from:
  • alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts in particular in the form of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, ammonium or amino alcohol salts.
  • the anionic surfactant is chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
  • the anionic surfactant is selected from sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, or a mixture thereof.
  • the surfactant may be chosen from nonionic surfactants.
  • They may be chosen from alcohols, ⁇ -diols and (C 1-20 ) alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 100, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30; or alternatively these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and especially from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • nonionic surfactants of alkyl (poly) glycoside type represented especially by the following general formula: R 1 O- (R 2 O) t - (G) v
  • R 1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 8 to 18 carbon atoms;
  • -R 2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • -G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms
  • -t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 10 and preferably 0 to 4,
  • -v denotes a value ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably 1 to 4.
  • alkylpolyglycoside surfactants are compounds of the formula described above in which:
  • -R 1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 18 carbon atoms
  • -R 2 represents an alkylene radical comprising 2 to 4 carbon atoms
  • -t denotes a value ranging from 0 to 3 and preferably equal to 0,
  • -G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose
  • the degree of polymerization i.e. the value of v, possibly ranging from 1 to 15 and preferably from 1 to 4; the mean degree of polymerization more particularly being between 1 and 2.
  • the glucoside bonds between the sugar units are generally of 1-6 or 1-4 type and preferably of 1-4 type.
  • the alkyl (poly) glycoside surfactant is an alkyl (poly) glucoside surfactant.
  • glyceryl stearate SE for example Pellets sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, sucrose stearate, for example Care SE 121 sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, C 8 /C 16 -alkyl (poly) glycosides 1, 4, especially as an aqueous 53%solution, such as those sold by Cognis under the reference 818 UP.
  • the nonionic surfactants are chosen from glyceryl stearate SE, sucrose stearate, (C 8-18 alkyl) (poly) glycosides, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises at least one surfactant chosen from anionic amino acid surfactants.
  • the surfactant that is suitable for the composition of the present invention is chosen from, alone or as a mixture:
  • the anionic surfactant is selected from sodium lauroyl glutamate, potassium cocoyl glycinate, or a mixture thereof.
  • the surfactant is present in an amount ranging from 1%to 20%, preferably from 2%to 10%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention is anhydrous.
  • the purpose of the anhydrous medium is to support the exothermic heating agent without activating it prior to exposure to water.
  • anhydrous refers to a composition that contains 5%or less of water, by weight, based on total weight of the composition.
  • the composition has 3%or less of water. In one embodiment, the composition has 1%or less of water.
  • anhydrous means that no water is added to the composition and water is contained only in the form of the constitutional water which in some cases cannot be avoided and is brought in as part of the ingredients in very small amounts.
  • the present invention relates to a solid and composition for caring for a keratin material, comprising, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • the composition is a solid composition.
  • the composition of the present invention is a solid composition which can be moulded into a balm, or a stick.
  • composition of the present invention presents a perceivable warming effect when applying on a keratin material, such as skin.
  • the composition of the present invention is configured to provide a minimum temperature increase by warming at least 1.5°C upon exposure to water and mixing energy.
  • activating a composition according to the present invention by hand yielded a temperature rise of about 2-3 °C.
  • Using a brush, the same composition generates a rise in temperature of about 2-4 °C.
  • the composition is configured to warm for at least 40 seconds upon exposure to water and manual mixing energy. Such a timeframe is achieved in the Examples below and is necessary to convey long-lasting efficacy to a user.
  • activation of the composition by a brush results in a shorter duration before reaching peak warming when compared to activation by hand.
  • duration of the warming may last a similar amount of time, the user senses the heat quicker and more intensely when brush activation is used.
  • the composition further comprises at least one polyol, which is different from the polyethylene glycol as described above, containing a C 2 -C 8 carbon chain.
  • Non-limiting examples of polyols in addition to propylene glycol as described above, are glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, or a mixture thereof. More preferably, the polyol that is suitable for the present invention is selected from glycerin, propylene glycol, or a mixture thereof.
  • the additional polyol when existing, is present in an amount ranging from 0.1%to 50%by weight, preferably from 10%to 40%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the present invention relates to a solid composition for cleansing and/or removing makeup of a keratin material, in particular the skin, comprising, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • a method of cleansing comprising applying a composition of the present invention as disclosed herein.
  • the composition is used for cleansing, such as cleansing skin.
  • the composition is delivered to an area to be cleaned, such as a skin portion. Water can then be applied as well.
  • manual energy e.g., rubbing, scrubbing, massaging, washing, abrading, etc. the skin
  • rubbing, scrubbing, massaging, washing, abrading, etc. the skin is applied to the mixture of water and the composition of the present invention.
  • the mixture of water and the composition is delivered to a skin.
  • cleansing the skin portion further includes exfoliating the skin.
  • cleansing the skin portion further includes removing make-up from the skin.
  • the comparative formula 1’ does not contain polyethylene glycol as claimed by the present invention; the comparative formula 1” does not contain solid fatty alcohol as claimed in the present invention.
  • the comparative formula 1’ does not contain PEG-8; the comparative formula 1” does not contain solid fatty alcohol as claimed.
  • the solidity, transformation properties and cosmetic properties such as foaming and skin sensory of the formulas were conducted by a group of 10 consumers, using the formulas listed above as skin cleanser products, on the forearms, respectively, and scores were given to each of the formulas.
  • the protocol was as follow:
  • Score 4 from 60%to 80% (not included) of consumers consider the effect being good and expected;
  • Score 3 at least 50%of consumers consider the effect being good and expected
  • Score 1 more than 80%of consumers consider the effect being poor and unacceptable.
  • the invention formulas 1 to 3 are stable over time, and show a unique use experience thanks to the transformation occurred during application; besides, they all have good foaming and skin sensory.
  • the comparative formula 1’ is not stable and therefore not acceptable, and the comparative formula 1” is a liquid composition, which does not show a unique use experience, i.e., there is no transformation.

Abstract

La présente divulgation concerne une composition solide pour le soin d'une matière kératinique, comprenant, en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition : a) au moins 20 % en poids d'au moins un polyéthylène glycol contenant de 4 à 30 groupes -CH2CH2O- ; b) au moins un alcool gras solide ; et c) au moins un tensioactif choisi parmi les tensioactifs amphotères ou zwittérioniques, les tensioactifs anioniques, les tensioactifs non ioniques, ou un mélange de ceux-ci.
PCT/CN2017/118567 2017-12-26 2017-12-26 Composition pour soins de matières kératiniques, procédé et utilisation WO2019127001A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/CN2017/118567 WO2019127001A1 (fr) 2017-12-26 2017-12-26 Composition pour soins de matières kératiniques, procédé et utilisation
CN201780097981.8A CN111542307B (zh) 2017-12-26 2017-12-26 用于护理角蛋白材料的组合物、其方法和用途

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/CN2017/118567 WO2019127001A1 (fr) 2017-12-26 2017-12-26 Composition pour soins de matières kératiniques, procédé et utilisation

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2019127001A1 true WO2019127001A1 (fr) 2019-07-04

Family

ID=67064305

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/CN2017/118567 WO2019127001A1 (fr) 2017-12-26 2017-12-26 Composition pour soins de matières kératiniques, procédé et utilisation

Country Status (2)

Country Link
CN (1) CN111542307B (fr)
WO (1) WO2019127001A1 (fr)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2022061556A1 (fr) * 2020-09-23 2022-03-31 L'oreal Composition pour le nettoyage et/ou le démaquillage de matières kératiniques
WO2022117290A1 (fr) * 2020-12-02 2022-06-09 Unilever Ip Holdings B.V. Composition pour soins personnels comprenant un tensioactif glycinate, un polyol et un tensioactif non ionique comprenant du glucoside d'alkyle

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2023004621A1 (fr) * 2021-07-28 2023-02-02 L'oreal Composition sous forme d'émulsion à structure lamellaire

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1616554A1 (fr) * 2004-07-16 2006-01-18 L'oreal Emulsion H/E fine et son utilisation dans le domaine cosmétique
WO2006040286A1 (fr) * 2004-10-15 2006-04-20 Ciba Specialty Chemicals Holding Inc. Formulations de soins capillaires comprenant un poly-organo-siloxane amino-fonctionnel
CN102058501A (zh) * 2008-11-24 2011-05-18 欧莱雅 应用于角蛋白纤维的固体化妆品组合物
WO2016191919A1 (fr) * 2015-05-29 2016-12-08 L'oreal Composition solide d'eau dans silicone avec effet de libération d'eau

Family Cites Families (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN103126911B (zh) * 2011-11-30 2015-09-09 南京华狮化工有限公司 一种温和的皂基洁面膏组合物及其生产工艺
US8877259B2 (en) * 2012-02-09 2014-11-04 Mary Kay Inc. Cosmetic formulation

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1616554A1 (fr) * 2004-07-16 2006-01-18 L'oreal Emulsion H/E fine et son utilisation dans le domaine cosmétique
WO2006040286A1 (fr) * 2004-10-15 2006-04-20 Ciba Specialty Chemicals Holding Inc. Formulations de soins capillaires comprenant un poly-organo-siloxane amino-fonctionnel
CN102058501A (zh) * 2008-11-24 2011-05-18 欧莱雅 应用于角蛋白纤维的固体化妆品组合物
WO2016191919A1 (fr) * 2015-05-29 2016-12-08 L'oreal Composition solide d'eau dans silicone avec effet de libération d'eau

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2022061556A1 (fr) * 2020-09-23 2022-03-31 L'oreal Composition pour le nettoyage et/ou le démaquillage de matières kératiniques
WO2022117290A1 (fr) * 2020-12-02 2022-06-09 Unilever Ip Holdings B.V. Composition pour soins personnels comprenant un tensioactif glycinate, un polyol et un tensioactif non ionique comprenant du glucoside d'alkyle

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
CN111542307B (zh) 2023-08-22
CN111542307A (zh) 2020-08-14

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
CN107920982B (zh) 含有氨基酸表面活性剂的用于清洁角蛋白材料的组合物
WO2006030881A1 (fr) Composition detergente
WO2004092315A1 (fr) Composition d'agent de nettoyage
JP5754644B2 (ja) 液体洗浄剤組成物
JP2011136992A (ja) ジャスモン酸誘導体および界面活性剤を含む化粧用クレンジング組成物
WO2019127001A1 (fr) Composition pour soins de matières kératiniques, procédé et utilisation
JP2007269662A (ja) クリーム状皮膚洗浄剤組成物
CN112469385A (zh) 发泡组合物
JPH1135972A (ja) フォーマー容器充填用液状洗浄剤組成物
US20210348087A1 (en) Liquid detergent having low viscosity
JP7353753B2 (ja) エーテル油を含む水中油型エマルション組成物
JP2006257084A (ja) 尿素化合物およびポリマーを含む化粧品用クレンジング組成物
JP4181153B2 (ja) 発泡性クレンジング組成物
CN113873988B (zh) 用于清洁角蛋白材料的组合物
WO2019126998A1 (fr) Composition pour soins des matières kératiniques, procédé et utilisation
JP4542279B2 (ja) 洗浄用組成物
JP7247710B2 (ja) パーソナルケア組成物
JP4704056B2 (ja) 皮膚洗浄剤組成物
JP2006257085A (ja) 尿素化合物とオキシアルキレン化化合物を含む化粧品用クレンジング組成物
KR101062626B1 (ko) 세정제 조성물
JP6800974B2 (ja) 適用の際に色変換を有する組成物
JP4101827B2 (ja) 起泡性クレンジング組成物
JP2004331942A (ja) 洗浄剤組成物
JP2005314614A (ja) 洗浄剤組成物
WO2021016729A1 (fr) Composition pour le nettoyage et/ou l'élimination du maquillage des matières kératiniques

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
121 Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application

Ref document number: 17936303

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1

NENP Non-entry into the national phase

Ref country code: DE

122 Ep: pct application non-entry in european phase

Ref document number: 17936303

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1