WO2019069362A1

WO2019069362A1 - Oil-based cosmetic preparation

Info

Publication number: WO2019069362A1
Application number: PCT/JP2017/035951
Authority: WO
Inventors: 博久日比
Original assignee: 株式会社日本色材工業研究所
Priority date: 2017-10-03
Filing date: 2017-10-03
Publication date: 2019-04-11
Also published as: JPWO2019069362A1; JP7038133B2

Abstract

Provided is an oil-based cosmetic preparation which contains: (a) a liquid oil component; (b) a solid oil or an oil galling agent; (c) a microcapsule containing a pigment; (d) an aqueous component; and (e) a lipophilic nonionic surfactant and/or a water-holding oil.

Description

Oily cosmetic

The present invention relates to an oily cosmetic.

In recent years, there has been increasing interest in cosmetics that change to a color different from the original appearance color when applied to the skin. As such a cosmetic, an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic containing a macrocapsule containing a pigment is known (Patent Document 1). When the cosmetic is applied to the skin, the shear force acts on the macrocapsule to disintegrate the macrocapsule, releasing the pigment from the macrocapsule to change its color.

However, since the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic contains a large amount of aqueous components, there is a problem that it is easy to dry and that gloss does not easily occur, for example, on the lips depending on the site to be applied.

Japanese Published Patent Application No. 2016-500113

On the other hand, if it is an oil-based cosmetic, various problems of the above-mentioned prior art can be solved, and further, adhesion to the skin, water resistance and the like can be improved. Therefore, the inventors attempted to prepare an oil-based cosmetic that changes color upon application. However, it has been revealed that the oily cosmetic in which the macrocapsule containing the pigment is dispersed has a problem that the color change is difficult or the color change is slow.

The present invention has been made to solve the above-mentioned problems, and it is an object of the present invention to provide an oil-based cosmetic which changes its color rapidly and sufficiently upon application.

As a result of intensive studies, the present inventors have found that a clear color change can be seen upon application by adding a very small amount of an aqueous component to an oily cosmetic.

That is, the present invention comprises the following components (a) to (e): (a) liquid oil, (b) solid oil or oil gelling agent, (c) microcapsules containing a pigment, (d) aqueous component, and (E) It is intended to provide an oil-based cosmetic comprising a lipophilic nonionic surfactant and / or a water repellent oil.

The component (d) is preferably water and / or a polyol.

In the oil-based cosmetic, the content of the component (d) is preferably 0.1 to 15% by mass.

In the oil-based cosmetic, the content of the component (e) is preferably 1 to 10% by mass.

In the oil-based cosmetic, the content of the component (a) is 40 to 95% by mass, the content of the component (b) is 0.1 to 20% by mass, and the content of the component (c) Is preferably 0.1 to 10% by mass.

The oil-based cosmetic according to the present invention can be rapidly and sufficiently color-changed at the time of application while maintaining the characteristics unique to oil-based cosmetics.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail, but the present invention is not limited to the embodiments described in the present specification.

The present invention comprises the following components: (a) to (e): (a) liquid oil, (b) solid oil or oil gelling agent, (c) microcapsules containing a pigment, (d) an aqueous component, and e) An oil-based cosmetic comprising a lipophilic nonionic surfactant and / or a water repellent oil.

The "liquid oil" of the component (a) in the present invention is an oil which is liquid at normal temperature to the manufacturing temperature of cosmetics (25 to 80 ° C.), and is a liquid oil generally used for cosmetics and quasi-drugs. It is not particularly limited as long as The liquid oil used in the present invention includes, for example, liquid paraffin, hydrocarbons such as squalane, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, di 2-ethylhexyl sebacate, neopentyl glycol di 2-ethylhexanoate, dicapric acid Neopentyl glycol, glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, diglyceryl triisostearate, pentaerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, dipentaerythritol 2-ethylhexanoic acid, trimethylolpropane tri-2-ethylhexanoate, malic acid Esters such as diisostearyl; Fats and oils such as olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, macadamia nut oil; Higher fatty acids such as isostearic acid and oleic acid; isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and the like Higher alcohols; dimethylpolysiloxane (dimethicone), methylphenyl polysiloxane (diphenyl phenyl trimethicone), decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (cyclomethicone) and the like silicone oils such. The liquid oil in the present invention can be used by optionally selecting one or more of the above.

The content of the liquid oil (a) in the oil-based cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 40 to 95% by mass, particularly preferably 50 to 85% by mass, based on 100% of the total mass of the oil-based cosmetic. %. If it is said range, the cosmetic | goods of usability can be obtained.

The "solid oil" of the component (b) in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is a solid oil generally used for cosmetics and quasi drugs. Examples of solid oils used in the present invention include fats and oils such as hardened oil and moclaw; hydrocarbons such as ceresin, microcrystalline wax, paraffin wax and polyethylene wax; waxes such as beeswax, candelilla wax and carnauba wax; Examples thereof include acids and higher fatty acids such as behenic acid; and higher alcohols such as cetanol. Moreover, semi-solid oil can also be used as a solid oil of the component (b) in this invention. In this case, as semi-solid oil components, petrolatum, cholesteryl hydroxystearate, hydrogenated castor oil stearic acid, dipentaerythritol fatty acid (12-hydroxystearic acid, stearic acid, rosin acid etc.) ester and the like can be used. The solid oil in the present invention can be used by optionally selecting one or more of the above.

The "oil gelling agent" of the component (b) in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it can gel the liquid oil component (a). Examples of the oil gelling agent used in the present invention include crosslinked organopolysiloxane polymers, 12-hydroxystearic acid, dextrin fatty acid esters, metal soaps, organically modified clay minerals and the like. As the oil gelling agent in the present invention, the oil gelling agent in the present invention can be used by optionally selecting one or more of the above.

As the dextrin fatty acid ester, an ester of dextrin and a higher fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms is preferable. Specifically, dextrin laurate, dextrin myristate, dextrin palmitate, dextrin stearate, dextrin behenate dextrin, coconut oil fatty acid Dextrin etc. are mentioned. These dextrin fatty acid esters are commercially available and, for example, Leopearl KE2, Leopearl KL2 and Leopearl TT2 (all manufactured by Chiba Powder Co., Ltd.) can be mentioned as preferable commercially available products.

The content of (b) solid oil or oil gelling agent in the oil-based cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.1 to 20% by mass, based on 100% of the total mass of the oil-based cosmetic, Preferably, it is 1 to 15% by mass. If it is said range, the cosmetic | goods of usability can be obtained.

The "pigment-containing microcapsule" of the component (c) in the present invention is a particle having a core containing at least one pigment and one or more outer coating layers. The average particle size of the microcapsules containing the pigment in the present invention is preferably 10 to 300 μm, more preferably 10 to 70 μm. The microcapsules containing a pigment in the present invention can be produced by methods of pelletizing, granulation, coating, which are known to those skilled in the art of coating / encapsulation, for example, WO 2011/027960. The pigment and the polymer are dispersed in a solvent, the mixed solution is spray-dried to prepare core particles, and the obtained core particles and the second pigment are used in the same procedure as described in It can be manufactured by repeating. As the pigment, inorganic pigments and organic pigments usually used for cosmetics can be used, and preferably, inorganic pigments such as iron oxide, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and the like can be used.

The microcapsules containing a pigment that can be used in the present invention are commercially available, and commercially available products can also be used in the present invention. Commercially available products include, for example, MAGICOLOR (registered trademark) (Biogenics, Inc.), TagraCap (trademark) (TagraBiotechnology), Cameleon Caps (trademark) (TagraBiotechnology), MicroBeads (trademark) (Salvona Technologies), and the like.

The content of the microcapsule (c) containing the pigment in the oil-based cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.1 to 10% by mass, particularly preferably 100% by mass, based on 100% of the total mass of the oil-based cosmetic. , 1 to 8% by mass. Within the above range, a good color change of the cosmetic can be provided.

The "aqueous component" of the component (d) in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is an aqueous component generally used for cosmetics and quasi-drugs, but preferably either water or a polyol Or mixtures thereof can be used. When a mixture of water and a polyol is used as the aqueous component (d) in the oily cosmetic composition of the present invention, water: polyol = 1: 5 to 5: 1 (mass ratio) is preferable, and 1: 3 to It is particularly preferable to use 3: 1 (mass ratio).

As the polyol in the present invention, a polyhydric alcohol having preferably 2 to 8 carbon atoms, more preferably a polyhydric alcohol having 3 to 6 carbon atoms can be used. Examples of the polyol in the present invention include glycerol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, isoprene glycol, and di- Propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, ethylhexyl glycerin, caprylyl glycol, polyethylene glycol, diglycerol, polyglycerol, glycol ether and the like can be mentioned. The polyol in the present invention can be used by optionally selecting one or two or more of the above.

The content of the aqueous component (d) in the oil-based cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.1 to 15% by mass, particularly preferably 0. 1 to 15% by mass, based on 100% of the total mass of the oil-based cosmetic. It is 5 to 10% by mass. Within the above range, a good color change of the cosmetic can be provided.

Component (e) "lipophilic nonionic surfactant" in the present invention means a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 6 or less. Examples of lipophilic nonionic surfactants in the present invention include sucrose fatty acid esters such as sucrose hexaisostearate (HLB 3.5), sucrose pentahydroxystearate (HLB 3.9), and polyglyceryl-2 isostearate (HLB). 5.5), polyglyceryl diisostearate (HLB 5.0), POE (2) stearyl ether (HLB 4.0), self-emulsifying propylene glycol monostearate (HLB 4.0), glyceryl myristate (HLB 3) .5), glyceryl monostearate (HLB 4.0), self-emulsifying glyceryl monostearate (HLB 4.0), glyceryl monoisostearate (HLB 4.0), glyceryl monooleate (HLB 2.5), Tristearin Hexaglyceryl (HLB 2.5), Decaglyceryl Pentastearate (HLB 3.5), Decaglyceryl Pentaisostearate (HLB 3.5), Decaglyceryl Pentaoleate (HLB 3.5), Monostearic acid Sorbitan (HLB 4.7), sorbitan tristearate (HLB 2.1), sorbitan monoisostearate (HLB 5.0), sorbitan sesquiisostearate (HLB 4.5), sorbitan monooleate (HLB 4.3) ), POE (6) sorbite hexastearate (HLB 3.0), POE (3) castor oil (HLB 3.0), PEG (2) monostearate (HLB 4.0), ethylene glycol monostearate (HLB 3.0) HLB 3.5), PEG (2) stearate (H B 4.5), PEG-10 dimethicone (HLB 4.5), PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone (HLB 4.0), cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone (HLB 3.5), etc. Be The lipophilic nonionic surfactant in the present invention can be used by optionally selecting one or two or more of the above.

The component (e) "water-retaining oil" in the present invention means an oil which can hold water equal to or more than its own weight, that is, a water-retaining capacity of 100% or more. Examples of the water repellent oil in the present invention include cholesteryl hydroxystearate, dipentaerythrityl tripolyhydroxystearate, lauroyl glutamic acid di (phytosteryl / octyldodecyl) and the like. The lipophilic nonionic surfactant in the present invention can be used by optionally selecting one or two or more of the above.

As the component (e) in the oil-based cosmetic of the present invention, any one of a lipophilic nonionic surfactant and an aqueous oil, or a mixture thereof can be used. The content of the (e) lipophilic nonionic surfactant and / or the water-repellent oil in the oil-based cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 1 to 10% by mass, based on 100% of the total mass of the oil-based cosmetic. And particularly preferably 3 to 8% by mass. If it is said range, the cosmetics excellent in color change, usability, and stability can be obtained.

The oily cosmetic composition of the present invention is a range not to impair the effects of the present invention, in addition to the above components (a) to (e), other components usually used in cosmetics, quasi-drugs, pharmaceutical compositions, etc. Can be appropriately blended. Examples of the other components include powder components, surfactants other than the component (e), moisturizers, thickeners, water-soluble polymers, film-forming agents, water-insoluble polymers, dyes, pigments, Pearls, lower alcohols, sugars, ultraviolet light absorbers, amino acids, vitamins, skin lightening agents, skin enhancers, agents for promoting blood circulation, anti-inflammatory agents, etc., plant extracts, organic acids, organic amines, sequestering agents And pH adjusters, antioxidants, antibacterial agents, preservatives, astringents, refreshing agents, perfumes and the like.

The method for producing the oil-based cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, and the oil-based cosmetic can be produced using a mixer or a grinder used for mixing, dispersing, and pulverizing a conventional oil-based cosmetic. Although it may be prepared by mixing all the components to be formulated in the oily cosmetic composition of the present invention at one time, it is preferable to mix the components (a), (b), (d) and (e) and then By adding and disperse | distributing c) and manufacturing, the cosmetics excellent in color change, usability, and stability can be obtained.

Examples of the shape of the oily cosmetic composition of the present invention include liquid, creamy and solid. Specific product forms of the oil-based cosmetic of the present invention include, but are not limited to, for example, lipstick, lip gloss, lip cream, lip substrate, eye shadow, eye liner, cheek, foundation, concealer and the like.

The invention will be further described by way of the following examples. In addition, these do not limit the present invention at all.

Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 Lip Gloss
A lip gloss was prepared according to the composition shown in Table 1 below and the manufacturing method shown below, and the items of "color change", "stability" and "lip emollient" were evaluated by the evaluation method and evaluation criteria shown below. did. The numerical values in the table are% by mass.

Note 1: Cameleon Red (manufactured by Tagra Biotechnologies Ltd)
Note 2: Cameleon Yellow (Tagra Biotechnologies Ltd)

[Production method]
A: Heat and dissolve an oily raw material and a surfactant (components 6 to 9) at 100 ° C.
B: Add the aqueous component (components 10 to 13) to A and mix uniformly.
C: Add pigment capsule (component 1 to 2), pigment and pearlescent agent (components 3 to 5), and other components (component 14) to B and mix uniformly.
D: C was dissolved by heating to 80 ° C. to degas, filled into a container, and cooled to obtain lip gloss.

[Evaluation method and evaluation criteria]
a. Color change (evaluation method)
Ten panelists put each sample on the arm and evaluated the presence or absence of a change in appearance color during spreading.
(Evaluation criteria)
:: 8 or more panelists who felt that there was a clear color change ○: 4 or more panelists who felt that there was a clear color change :: 1 to 3 panelists who felt that there was a clear color change × : No panelists felt there was a clear color change

b. Stability (evaluation method)
For each sample stored for 1 month in a thermostatic bath maintained at 40 ° C. (humidity 85%), the presence or absence of a change in state was evaluated according to the following criteria.
(Evaluation criteria)
○: No change was observed in the test sample.
Δ: Slight separation or sweating was observed.
X: Separation or sweating was observed within 3 days.

c. Emollient feeling of lips (evaluation method)
Ten panelists scored moisturizing feeling when applying each sample to the lips based on the following score. The average value of the scoring result by 10 panelists was evaluated as an evaluation value according to the following criteria.
(Score)
0 point: very dry 1 point: slightly dry 2 points: neither good 3 points: slightly moist 4 points: very moist (evaluation criteria)
○: 3 or more and less than 4 points Δ: 1 or more and less than 3 points ×: less than 1 point

[result]
As is clear from the results of Table 1, Examples 1 to 4, which are the practical products of the present invention, exhibited excellent color change and were excellent ones having high usability and stability. On the other hand, no clear color change was observed in Comparative Example 1 in which the aqueous component (d) was not contained. In addition, Comparative Example 2 containing a small amount of aqueous component (d) but not containing lipophilic nonionic surfactant (e) and Comparative Example 3 containing a large amount of aqueous component (d) show a clear color change. It was inferior to stability and usability.

Examples 5 to 10 and Comparative Examples 5 to 6 Sticky Lipsticks
According to the composition shown in Table 2 below and the manufacturing method shown below, stick-like lipsticks are prepared, and the evaluation method and evaluation standard similar to the above are mentioned for the items of "color change", "stability", "lip emollient feeling" It evaluated by. The numerical values in the table are% by mass.

Note 1: Cameleon Red (manufactured by Tagra Biotechnologies Ltd)
Note 2: Cameleon Yellow (Tagra Biotechnologies Ltd)
Note 3: Cameleon White (manufactured by Tagra Biotechnologies Ltd)

[Production method]
A: Heat and dissolve oil-based material and surfactant / hydrophobic oil (components 8 to 22) at 100 ° C.
B: Add the aqueous component (components 23 to 27) to A and mix uniformly.
C: The powder component (components 6 to 7) is dispersed in B by a roll mill.
D: Add pigment capsules (components 1 to 3), pearlescent agents (components 4 to 5) and other components (components 28 to 29) to C and mix uniformly.
E: D was dissolved by heating to 80 ° C. to defoam, poured into a mold, and solidified by cooling to obtain a stick-like lipstick.

[result]
As is clear from the results of Table 2, Examples 5 to 10, which are the practical products of the present invention, exhibited excellent color change and were excellent ones having high usability and stability. In contrast, no clear color change was observed in Comparative Example 5 which did not contain the aqueous component (d). In addition, Comparative Example 6 containing a small amount of the aqueous component (d) but not containing the lipophilic nonionic surfactant or the water repellent oil (e) showed a clear color change but was inferior in stability and usability. .

Thus, by adding a small amount of an aqueous component and a lipophilic nonionic surfactant or a water-repellent oil agent, an oil-based cosmetic which exhibits a rapid and sufficient color change while maintaining excellent stability and usability. It became clear that it could be obtained. This makes it possible to provide cosmetic products such as lipsticks, lip glosses, eye shadows, cheeks, foundations, etc. that are excellent in gloss and feeling of use and that change color upon application.

Claims

The following components (a) to (e):
(A) Liquid oil,
(B) Solid oil or oil gelling agent,
(C) microcapsules containing a pigment,
An oily cosmetic comprising (d) an aqueous component, and (e) a lipophilic nonionic surfactant and / or an aqueous oil.
The oil-based cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the component (d) is water and / or a polyol.
The oil-based cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the content of the component (d) in the oil-based cosmetic is 0.1 to 15% by mass.
The oil-based cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the content of the component (e) in the oil-based cosmetic is 1 to 10% by mass.
In the oil-based cosmetic, the content of the component (a) is 40 to 95% by mass, the content of the component (b) is 0.1 to 20% by mass, and the content of the component (c) The oil-based cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein is 0.1 to 10% by mass.