JP7038133B2 - Oily cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to oil-based cosmetics.

In recent years, there has been increasing interest in cosmetics that change to a color different from the original appearance color when applied to the skin. As such a cosmetic, an oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic containing a macrocapsule containing a pigment is known (Patent Document 1). When the cosmetic is applied to the skin, the shearing force acts on the macrocapsule to disintegrate the macrocapsule, and the pigment is released from the macrocapsule to change its color.

However, since the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic contains a large amount of water-based components, there are problems that it is easy to dry and it is difficult to give gloss to the lips, for example, depending on the site to which it is applied.

Special Table 2016-500113 Gazette

On the other hand, if it is an oil-based cosmetic, it is possible to solve the above-mentioned problems of the prior art, and further to improve the adhesion to the skin, water resistance and the like. Therefore, the inventors tried to prepare an oil-based cosmetic that changes color at the time of application. However, it has become clear that oil-based cosmetics in which macrocapsules containing pigments are dispersed have a problem that the color change is difficult or the color change is slow.

The present invention has been made to solve the above problems, and an object of the present invention is to provide an oil-based cosmetic that changes color quickly and sufficiently at the time of application.

As a result of diligent research, the present inventors have found that by adding a very small amount of an aqueous component to an oil-based cosmetic, a clear color change is observed at the time of application.

That is, the present invention relates to the following components (a) to (e): (a) liquid oil, (b) solid oil or oil gelling agent, (c) microcapsules containing a pigment, (d) an aqueous component, and (E) Provided is an oily cosmetic containing a lipophilic nonionic surfactant and / or a water-holding oil.

The component (d) is preferably water and / or a polyol.

In the oily cosmetics, the content of the component (d) is preferably 0.1 to 15% by mass.

In the oily cosmetic, the content of the component (e) is preferably 1 to 10% by mass.

In the oily cosmetic, the content of the component (a) is 40 to 95% by mass, the content of the component (b) is 0.1 to 20% by mass, and the content of the component (c). Is preferably 0.1 to 10% by mass.

The oil-based cosmetics according to the present invention can change color quickly and sufficiently at the time of application while maintaining the characteristics unique to oil-based cosmetics.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail, but the present invention is not limited to the embodiments described in the present specification.

The present invention comprises the following components: (a)-(e): (a) liquid oil, (b) solid oil or oil gelling agent, (c) microcapsules containing pigments, (d) aqueous components, and ( e) An oily cosmetic containing a lipophilic nonionic surfactant and / or a water-holding oil.

The "liquid oil content" of the component (a) in the present invention is an oil component that exhibits a liquid state at room temperature to the manufacturing temperature of cosmetics (25 to 80 ° C.), and is a liquid oil content normally used for cosmetics and quasi-drugs. If so, it is not particularly limited. Liquid oils used in the present invention include, for example, liquid paraffins, hydrocarbons such as squalane, isopropyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, di2-ethylhexyl sevacinate, neopentyl glycol di2-ethylhexanoate, and dicapric acid. Neopentylglycol, glyceryl tri2-ethylhexaneate, diglyceryl triisostearate, pentaerythrit tetra2-ethylhexaneate, dipentaerythrit 2-ethylhexanoic acid, trimerylpropane tri-2-ethylhexaneate, malic acid Esters such as diisostearyl; Fats and oils such as olive oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, macadamia nut oil; higher fatty acids such as isostearic acid and oleic acid; higher alcohols such as isostearyl alcohol and oleyl alcohol; dimethylpolysiloxane ( Dimethicone), methylphenylpolysiloxane (diphenylsiloxyphenyltrimethicone), decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (cyclomethicone) and other silicone oils. As the liquid oil component in the present invention, one or more of the above types can be arbitrarily selected and used.

The content of (a) liquid oil in the oil-based cosmetics of the present invention is preferably 40 to 95% by mass, and particularly preferably 50 to 85% by mass, when the total mass of the oil-based cosmetics is 100%. %. Within the above range, a cosmetic having good usability can be obtained.

The "solid oil" of the component (b) in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is a solid oil usually used for cosmetics and quasi-drugs. Examples of the solid oil used in the present invention include hydrogenated oils, fats and oils such as mokuro; hydrocarbons such as selecin, microcrystallin wax, paraffin wax and polyethylene wax; waxes such as beeswax, candelilla wax and carnauba wax; Higher fatty acids such as acids and behonic acids; higher alcohols such as cetanol and the like. Further, a semi-solid oil can also be used as the solid oil of the component (b) in the present invention. In this case, as the semi-solid oil content, petrolatum, cholesteryl hydroxystearate, stearic acid-hardened castor oil, dipentaerythrit fatty acid (12-hydroxystearic acid, stearic acid, loginic acid, etc.) esters and the like can be used. As the solid oil in the present invention, one or more of the above can be arbitrarily selected and used.

The "oil gelling agent" of the component (b) in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it can gel the liquid oil (a). Examples of the oil gelling agent used in the present invention include crosslinked organopolysiloxane polymers, 12-hydroxystearic acid, dextrin fatty acid esters, metal soaps, and organically modified clay minerals. As the oil gelling agent in the present invention, the oil gelling agent in the present invention may be used by arbitrarily selecting one or more of the above.

As the dextrin fatty acid ester, an ester of dextrin and a higher fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms is preferable. Examples include dextrin. These dextrin fatty acid esters are commercially available, and examples thereof include Leopard KE2, Leopard KL2, and Leopard TT2 (all manufactured by Chiba Flour Milling Co., Ltd.) as preferred commercial products.

The content of (b) solid oil or oil gelling agent in the oil-based cosmetics of the present invention is preferably 0.1 to 20% by mass, particularly when the total mass of the oil-based cosmetics is 100%. It is preferably 1 to 15% by mass. Within the above range, a cosmetic having good usability can be obtained.

The “pigment-containing microcapsule” of component (c) in the present invention is a particle having a core containing at least one pigment and one or more outer coating layers. The average particle size of the microcapsules containing the pigment in the present invention is preferably 10 to 300 μm, more preferably 10 to 70 μm. The pigment-containing microcapsules in the present invention can be produced by the methods of pelletization, granulation and coating known to those skilled in the art in the field of coating / encapsulation, for example, WO 2011/07960. As described in, the pigment and the polymer are dispersed in a solvent, the mixed solution is spray-dried to prepare core particles, and the same procedure is performed using the obtained core particles and the second pigment. By repeating, it can be manufactured. As the pigment, inorganic pigments and organic pigments usually used in cosmetics can be used, and preferably, inorganic pigments such as iron oxide, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide can be used.

Microcapsules containing pigments that can be used in the present invention are commercially available, and in the present invention, commercially available products can also be used. Examples of commercially available products include MAGICOLOR (registered trademark) (Biogenics, Inc.), TagraCap (trademark) (TagraBiotechnology), CameleonCaps (trademark) (TagraBiotechnology), MicroBeads (trademark), etc.

The content of the microcapsules containing (c) the pigment in the oil-based cosmetics of the present invention is preferably 0.1 to 10% by mass, particularly preferably when the total mass of the oil-based cosmetics is 100%. It is 1 to 8% by mass. Within the above range, good color change of cosmetics can be provided.

The "aqueous component" of the component (d) in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is an aqueous component usually used for cosmetics and quasi-drugs, but is preferably either water or a polyol. , Or a mixture thereof. When a mixture of water and a polyol is used as the aqueous component (d) in the oily cosmetic of the present invention, it is preferably water: polyol = 1: 5 to 5: 1 (mass ratio), and 1: 3 to 1. It is particularly preferable to set it to 3: 1 (mass ratio).

As the polyol in the present invention, a polyhydric alcohol having 2 to 8 carbon atoms is preferably used, and more preferably, a polyhydric alcohol having 3 to 6 carbon atoms can be used. Examples of the polyol in the present invention include glycerol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, isoprene glycol, and di. Examples thereof include propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, ethylhexyl glycerin, caprylyl glycol, polyethylene glycol, diglycerol, polyglycerol, glycol ether and the like. As the polyol in the present invention, one or more of the above can be arbitrarily selected and used.

The content of the (d) aqueous component in the oil-based cosmetics of the present invention is preferably 0.1 to 15% by mass, particularly preferably 0., When the total mass of the oil-based cosmetics is 100%. It is 5 to 10% by mass. Within the above range, good color change of cosmetics can be provided.

The component (e) "lipophilic nonionic surfactant" in the present invention means a nonionic surfactant having an HLB of 6 or less. Examples of the lipophilic nonionic surfactant in the present invention include sucrose fatty acid esters such as hexaisostearate sulose (HLB 3.5) and pentahydroxystearate sulose (HLB 3.9), and polyglyceryl-2 isostearate-2 (HLB). 5.5), polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate (HLB 5.0), POE (2) stearyl ether (HLB 4.0), self-emulsifying propylene glycol monostearate (HLB 4.0), glyceryl myristate (HLB 3) .5), glyceryl monostearate (HLB 4.0), self-emulsifying glyceryl monostearate (HLB 4.0), glyceryl monoisostearate (HLB 4.0), glyceryl monooleate (HLB 2.5), Hexaglyceryl tristearate (HLB 2.5), decaglyceryl pentastearate (HLB 3.5), decaglyceryl pentaisosostearite (HLB 3.5), decaglyceryl pentaoleate (HLB 3.5), Sorbitane monostearate (HLB 4.7), sorbitan tristearate (HLB 2.1), sorbitan monoisostearate (HLB 5.0), sorbitan sesquiisostearate (HLB 4.5), sorbitan monooleate (HLB) 4.3), POE (6) sorbit hexastearate (HLB 3.0), POE (3) castor oil (HLB 3.0), PEG (2) monostearate (HLB 4.0), ethylene glycol mono Steerate (HLB 3.5), PEG (2) steerate (HLB 4.5), PEG-10 dimethicone (HLB 4.5), PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone (HLB 4.0), cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 dimethicone (HLB 3.5) and the like can be mentioned. As the lipophilic nonionic surfactant in the present invention, one or more of the above can be arbitrarily selected and used.

The component (e) "water-holding oil agent" in the present invention means an oil agent capable of retaining water equal to or more than its own weight, that is, an oil agent having a water-holding capacity of 100% or more. Examples of the water-holding oil agent in the present invention include cholesteryl hydroxystearate, dipentaerythrityl tripolyhydroxystearate, di (phytosteryl / octyldodecyl) lauroyl glutamate, and the like. As the lipophilic nonionic surfactant in the present invention, one or more of the above can be arbitrarily selected and used.

As the component (e) in the oil-based cosmetics of the present invention, either a lipophilic nonionic surfactant or a water-holding oil, or a mixture thereof can be used. The content of (e) lipophilic nonionic surfactant and / or water-holding oil in the oil-based cosmetics of the present invention is preferably 1 to 10% by mass when the total mass of the oil-based cosmetics is 100%. , Particularly preferably 3 to 8% by mass. Within the above range, cosmetics having excellent color change, usability and stability can be obtained.

In addition to the above-mentioned ingredients (a) to (e), the oil-based cosmetic of the present invention contains other ingredients usually used for cosmetics, quasi-drugs, pharmaceutical compositions, etc., as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired. Can be appropriately blended with. Examples of the other components include powder components, surfactants other than the above component (e), moisturizers, thickeners, water-soluble polymers, film-forming agents, water-insoluble polymers, dyes, pigments, and the like. Drugs such as pearls, lower alcohols, sugars, UV absorbers, amino acids, vitamins, whitening agents, skin activators, blood circulation promoters, anti-inflammatory agents, plant extracts, organic acids, organic amines, metal ion blockers , PH adjusters, antioxidants, antibacterial agents, preservatives, astringents, refreshing agents, fragrances and the like.

The method for producing the oil-based cosmetics of the present invention is not particularly limited, and can be produced using a mixer or a crusher used for mixing, dispersing, and crushing ordinary oil-based cosmetics. All the components to be blended in the oily cosmetics of the present invention may be mixed at once to produce, but preferably, after the components (a), (b), (d) and (e) are mixed, the components ( By adding c) and dispersing it, it is possible to obtain a cosmetic having excellent color change, usability and stability.

Examples of the shape of the oil-based cosmetic of the present invention include liquid, creamy and solid forms. Specific product forms of the oil-based cosmetics of the present invention are not particularly limited, and examples thereof include lipsticks, lip glosses, lip creams, lip bases, eye shadows, eyeliners, cheeks, foundations, and concealers.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be further described with reference to examples. It should be noted that these do not limit the present invention in any way.

<Examples 1 to 4 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4: Lip gloss>
Lip gloss is prepared by the composition shown in Table 1 below and the manufacturing method shown below, and the items of "color change", "stability", and "emollient feeling of lips" are evaluated by the evaluation methods and evaluation criteria shown below. did. The numerical value in the table is mass%.

Note 1: Cameleon Red (manufactured by Tagra Biotechnologies Ltd)
Note 2: Cameleon Yellow (manufactured by Tagra Biotechnologies Ltd)

[Production method]
A: The oily raw material and the surfactant (components 6 to 9) are heated and dissolved at 100 ° C.
B: Add an aqueous component (components 10 to 13) to A and mix them uniformly.
Pigment capsules (components 1 and 2), pigments and pearlizing agents (components 3 and 5), and other components (component 14) are added to C: B and mixed uniformly.
D: C was heated and dissolved at 80 ° C. to defoam, filled in a container, and cooled to obtain lip gloss.

[Evaluation method and evaluation criteria]
a. Color change (evaluation method)
Ten panelists placed each sample on their arm and evaluated the presence or absence of change in appearance color during spreading.
(Evaluation criteria)
◎: 8 or more panelists who felt that there was a clear color change ○: 4 or more panelists who felt that there was a clear color change △: 1 to 3 panelists who felt that there was a clear color change × : No panelists feel that there is a clear color change

b. Stability (evaluation method)
For each sample stored for 1 month in a constant temperature bath kept at 40 ° C. (humidity 85%), the presence or absence of a change in state was evaluated according to the following criteria.
(Evaluation criteria)
◯: No change was observed in the test sample.
Δ: Slight separation or sweating was observed.
X: Separation or sweating was observed within 3 days.

c. Emollient lips (evaluation method)
Ten panelists scored the moisturizing sensation when each sample was applied to the lips based on the following scores. The average value of the scoring results by 10 panelists was used as the evaluation value, and the evaluation was made according to the following criteria.
(Score)
0 points: Very dry 1 points: Slightly dry 2 points: Neither can be said 3 points: Slightly moisturized 4 points: Very moisturized (evaluation criteria)
○: 3 points or more and less than 4 points △: 1 point or more and less than 3 points ×: Less than 1 point

[result]
As is clear from the results in Table 1, Examples 1 to 4, which are the products of the present invention, were excellent in that they showed a clear color change and had high usability and stability. On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1 containing no aqueous component (d), no clear color change was observed. Further, Comparative Example 2 containing a small amount of the aqueous component (d) but not containing the lipophilic nonionic surfactant (e) and Comparative Example 3 containing a large amount of the aqueous component (d) show a clear color change. , It was inferior in stability and usability.

<Examples 5 to 10 and Comparative Examples 5 to 6: Stick-shaped lipstick>
A stick-shaped lipstick is prepared by the composition shown in Table 2 below and the manufacturing method shown below, and the same evaluation methods and evaluation criteria as above are applied to the items of "color change", "stability", and "emollient feeling of lips". Evaluated by. The numerical value in the table is mass%.

Note 1: Cameleon Red (manufactured by Tagra Biotechnologies Ltd)
Note 2: Cameleon Yellow (manufactured by Tagra Biotechnologies Ltd)
Note 3: Cameleon White (manufactured by Tagra Biotechnologies Ltd)

[Production method]
A: The oily raw material and the surfactant / water-holding oil (components 8 to 22) are heated and dissolved at 100 ° C.
B: Add an aqueous component (components 23 to 27) to A and mix them uniformly.
C: Disperse the powder component (components 6 to 7) in B with a roll mill.
Pigment capsules (components 1 to 3), pearlizing agents (components 4 to 5), and other components (components 28 to 29) are added to D: C and mixed uniformly.
E: D was heated and dissolved at 80 ° C. to defoam, poured into a mold, and cooled and solidified to obtain a stick-shaped lipstick.

[result]
As is clear from the results in Table 2, Examples 5 to 10, which are the products of the present invention, were excellent in that they showed a clear color change and had high usability and stability. On the other hand, in Comparative Example 5 containing no aqueous component (d), no clear color change was observed. Further, Comparative Example 6 containing a small amount of the aqueous component (d) but not containing the lipophilic nonionic surfactant or the water-holding oil (e) showed a clear color change, but was inferior in stability and usability. ..

As described above, by adding a small amount of an aqueous component and a lipophilic nonionic surfactant or a water-holding oil, an oil-based cosmetic that exhibits rapid and sufficient color change while maintaining excellent stability and usability can be obtained. It became clear that it could be obtained. This makes it possible to provide cosmetics such as lipstick, lip gloss, eye shadow, cheek, and foundation, which are excellent in gloss and usability and change color at the time of application.

Claims (4)

The following components (a) to (e):
(A) Liquid oil,
(B) Solid oil or oil gelling agent,
(C) Microcapsules containing pigments,
An oily cosmetic comprising (d) an aqueous component and (e) a lipophilic nonionic surfactant and / or a water-holding oil , wherein the content of the component (d) is 0. An oily cosmetic that is 1 to 2% by mass . The oily cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the component (d) is water and / or a polyol. The oily cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2 , wherein the content of the component (e) is 1 to 10% by mass in the oily cosmetic. In the oil-based cosmetics, the content of the component (a) is 40 to 95% by mass, the content of the component (b) is 0.1 to 20% by mass, and the content of the component (c). The oily cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3 , wherein the amount is 0.1 to 10% by mass.