WO2019022687A2

WO2019022687A2 - Fabric with elasticity and recovery feature, and yarn which is used in manufacturing these fabrics

Info

Publication number: WO2019022687A2
Application number: PCT/TR2017/050731
Authority: WO
Inventors: Ahmet Gokhan Aydin; Hakan Konukoglu
Original assignee: Sanko Tekstil Isletmeleri Sanayi Ve Ticaret Anonim Sirketi
Priority date: 2017-02-06
Filing date: 2017-12-29
Publication date: 2019-01-31
Also published as: WO2019022687A3; TR201701687A2; EP3358053A1

Abstract

The invention relates to yarns and fabrics used in textile field. The invention in particular relates to yarns, which contain a core comprising yarn or yarns made of regenerated or synthetic materials and yarn or yarns made of elastane; which is used in circular knitted fabrics, in which elasticity and recovery features (the ability of the fabric to be recovered back after applying a force) are desired, and in manufacturing of mentioned circular knitted fabrics.

Description

Fabric with Elasticity and Recovery Feature, and Yarn which is Used in Manufacturing these Fabrics

DESCRIPTION

Technical Field The invention relates to yarns and fabrics used in textile field. The invention in particular relates to yarns, which contain a core comprising yarn or yarns made of regenerated or synthetic materials and yarn or yarns made of elastane; which is used in circular knitted fabrics, in which elasticity and recovery features (the ability of the fabric to be recovered back after applying a force) are desired, and in manufacturing of mentioned circular knitted fabrics. Prior Art

Yarns which are made of polyurethane-elastomer, which exhibits a certain amount of elongation under the influence of a pulling force, and recovered back to its initial state when the force is removed, are called elastane. Elastane yarns are not used alone. They are used as the auxiliary yarn, along with the main yarn. Today, elastane yarn is frequently used in circular knitting machines. Elastane yarn usage is especially common in fine circular knitting machines. These are single jersey, rib, interlock, ringelli, electronic jacquard, mini jacquard circular knitting machines. Elastane yarn may be used alone with ground yarn in circular knitting machines, in addition to being used as coated yarn. The prior art fails to provide elastane fabric with a level of recovery after applying a force to the fabric, that meets the user demand. In stretch clothing, fabric exhibits some level of elongation as a result of daily use. Loosening on the surface of the fabric which experienced elongation may fail to recover itself. This is an undesired outcome in terms of appearance and usage performance. Today, stretch fabrics are desired to be tightfitting, elastic and recovering. When these requirements are not met, various problems are encountered. The fabric fails to recover and even though a tight fitting is achieved during the first use, permanent deformations form on the surface of the fabric after short term use.

Developments in the prior art related to the subject are given below. Patent no. EP2762620B1 relates to "Stretch knitted fabric and clothes". The invention comprises stretchable knitted fabric comprising a non-elastic yarn and an elastic yarn, which exhibits temperature raise when stretched, wherein the instantaneous heat generation temperature when stretched by 100 % for warp or weft direction of the knitted fabric is 1.0 °C or more.

Patent no. TR 2015 16867 relates to "A method of production for shirt fabric comprising Spandex and hard yarn". Mentioned invention comprises a method of production for core composite elastic yarn and stretch woven shirt fabric using said yarn.

Patent no. EP1893792B1 relates to "Circular knitting of elastic fabrics containing an elastomeric yarn". The invention discloses circular knit, elastic fabrics of at least one of single jersey, French terry, and fleece that include a bare elastomeric material plated with spun and/or continuous filament hard yarns.

Therefore, aforementioned disadvantages and lack of an adequate solution have made it necessary to make a development in the related technical field.

Brief Description of the Invention

The present invention relates to a fabric with elasticity and recovery feature, and yarn which is used in manufacturing these fabrics, in order to overcome all aforementioned disadvantages and to provide further advantages.

The primary object of the invention is to ensure that the ability of elastane fabrics to recover to their initial state, after a force is applied, meets the level demanded by users.

The invention aims to prevent deformations in appearance due to loosening of stretch fabrics. Another object of the invention is to improve the usage performance of elastane containing circular knitted fabrics by using yarn with multiple cores.

The invention aims to also allow core yarns comprising yarn or yarns made of regenerated or synthetic materials and yarn or yarns made of elastane to be used in circular knitted fabrics.

Another object of the invention is to extend the lifetime of circular knitted fabrics containing elastane.

Another object of the invention is to provide a garment product made of circular knitted fabric, which is tightfitting and does not exhibit deformation after fitting.

In order to achieve aforementioned objects, the invention provides a yarn comprising natural fiber, regenerated fiber, synthetic fiber or a combination thereof; wherein, in its core, it comprises at least one filament yarn comprising regenerated or synthetic materials and at least one elastane yarn. Mentioned yarn is obtained by feeding at least one filament yarn comprising regenerated or synthetic materials along with at least one elastane yarn, to the core of the yarn comprising natural fiber, regenerated fiber, synthetic fiber or a combination thereof, during the spinning process, after roving. In order to achieve aforementioned objects, the invention comprises a fabric obtained from a yarn comprising a core comprising at least one filament yarn comprising regenerated or synthetic materials and at least one elastane yarn.

In order to achieve the objects of the invention, mentioned fabric is circular knitted fabric.

Structural and characteristic features and all advantages of the invention shall become apparent with the detailed description given below. Therefore, assessment should be based on this detailed description.

Detailed Description of the Invention

The fabric with elasticity and recovery feature, and yarn which is used in manufacturing these fabrics of the invention, given in the herein detailed description is merely an example to help understanding the subject without limiting the scope of the invention.

The invention comprises a circular knitted fabric obtained from a core yarn comprising a core comprising at least one filament yarn comprising regenerated or synthetic materials and at least one elastane yarn.

There are filament yarns obtained through chemical processes or from natural materials. For example, some filament yarn materials are produced from chemical petroleum derivatives while some others have cellulosic origin. Especially nylon and pes (polyester) are frequently used in filament yarn. On the other hand, other yarns such as pbt, viscose and floss may also be preferred. The choice of the filament type depends on factors such as the cost of the final product, desired recovery value based on the area of use, and user preferences. In general, the production method of the core yarn of the invention comprises;

• preparation of the fiber comprising natural fiber, regenerated fiber, synthetic fiber or a combination thereof, for the spinning process in filament form,

• spinning process of the obtained filament, • feeding at least one filament yarn comprising regenerated or synthetic materials along with at least one elastane yarn, to the core of the filament which has been spun during the spinning process,

• twisting and winding process steps. The core yarn of the invention is obtained by feeding at least one filament yarn comprising regenerated or synthetic materials along with at least one elastane yarn, to the core of the yarn comprising natural fiber (cotton etc.), regenerated fiber, synthetic fiber or a combination thereof, during the spinning process, after roving. The filament yarn or yarns comprising regenerated or synthetic materials and the elastane yarn or yarns are fed to the yarn core simultaneously. In the current systems, elastic core yarn is obtained by only feeding elastane to the yarn core. However, these yarns lack adequate elasticity and recovery levels.

The fabric of the invention is obtained by processing the yarns obtained by feeding at least one filament yarn comprising regenerated or synthetic materials along with at least one elastane yarn, to the core of the yarn comprising natural fiber (cotton etc.), regenerated fiber, synthetic fiber or a combination thereof, during the spinning process, in circular knitting machines into knitted fabric. Circular knitted fabrics which are tight fitting when worn and does not exhibit deformation after fitting are obtained by knitting in knitting constructions with designs suitable for garments (all circular knitting types such as rib, interlock, single jersey) and in desired circular knitting settings (desired diameter, fineness, needle gap and plate settings). First of all, production of yarn with core is required for the knitting of the fabrics which are intended to be used in garment industry which requires elasticity and recovery features. Again the core yarn production is performed in accordance with suitable elasticity and recovery levels depending on the area of use.

First of all, the required weight, elasticity and recovery levels of the fabric of the invention is determined based on the area of use. Intended season of use, location of use and design shape of the garment are the factors that determine the fabric weight. Later on, final yarn count (Ne value) that is going to be used in production of the fabric is determined in accordance with the desired fabric weight. For example, the weight of a fabric is measured to be 200 gr/m2 when its final yarn has 40/1 NE, while on the other hand the weight of a fabric is measured to be 300 gr/m2 when its final yarn has 20/1 NE. Later on, type of the filament yarn (pes, nylon, pbt, floss viscose etc.), thickness and number of the filament used in the core (1 , 2 or more filaments of yarn may be used depending on the desired recovery value) are determined depending on the preferred recovery value based on the area of use. Similarly, type, thickness and number of elastane (1 , 2 or more elastane yarns may be used depending on the desired recovery value) used in the core is determined depending on the stretching (elasticity) value in accordance with the area of use. After determining the weight, elasticity and recovery characteristics of the fabric, yarn count to be used in the production of the fabric, filament yarn and elastane yarn types to be used in said yarn core, their thicknesses and used numbers, production of the core yarn is performed in order to be used later in fabric production. Obtained yarns are transformed into fabrics using desired circular knitting constructions (such as interlock, rib, single jersey) suitable for clothing and at suitable fabric width, fabric weight and machine plate settings depending on the desired weight and construction, and then dying processes are performed.

The core yarn of the invention is used in circular knitted fabrics where elasticity and recovery back to its initial state after the application of the force are desired. Mentioned fabric, which tightly fits to the body and returns back to its initial form after usage by recovering at the stretched areas, is suitable for use in underwear, top wear, any part of underwear and outerwear; men, women and kid's garments and some home textile products.

The core yarn of the invention is fed to a circular knitting machine in order to perform the knitting process and circular knitted fabrics are obtained.

The core yarn of the invention is obtained by applying threshing, willowing, heckle, draw-frame, roving and spinning processes respectively to fibers comprising natural fiber, regenerated fiber, synthetic fiber or a combination thereof, during the spinning process, and feeding filament yarn or yarns comprising regenerated or synthetic materials and elastane yarn or yarns, to the core of the yarn. By applying threshing, willowing, heckle, draw-frame, roving and spinning processes respectively to fibers comprising natural fiber, regenerated fiber, synthetic fiber or a combination thereof, prior to the spinning process, mentioned fibers are prepared for the spinning process.

Yarns produced by ring filament core yarn, are transformed into fabrics using circular knitting method. In core yarn production, elastane and filament yarn is fed into the cotton fibers which are being spun during the spinning, and thereby it becomes possible for those to be spun at the same time.

Depending on the desired weight and tightness to be derived from the core yarn, the circular knitted fabric production is performed using different diameters (pus) and needle gaps (fine). After knitting the fabric at the circular knitting machine, the knitted fabric is made ready to use by applying front fixing, ram and open width sanforizing processes.

Test results indicating elasticity and recovery properties of a fabric in which a yarn comprising only elastane in its core is used, and a fabric in which a yarn comprising a filament yarn and an elastane yarn in its core is used are given below. Table 1. Test results indicating recovery properties of a fabric in which a yarn comprising only elastane in its core, is used

In the case of force application of fabric, required amount of force for bursting the fabric (Bursting Strength (kPa)): 289 kPa

Recovery along width (recovery weft): %85

Recovery along length (recovery warp): %86

Graph 1. Graph indicating the change in the strain with respect to applied force for the fabric in which a yarn comprising only elastane in its core, is used

Table 2. Test results indicating recovery properties of a fabric in which a yarn comprising a filament yarn and an elastane yarn in its core, is used

In the case of force application of fabric, required amount of force for bursting the fabric (Bursting Strength (kPa)): 355 kPa

Recovery along width (recovery weft): %94

Recovery along length (recovery warp): %97

Strain %

Graph 2. Graph indicating the change in the strain with respect to applied force for the fabric which a yarn comprising a filament yarn and an elastane yarn in its core, is used

Table 3. Test results indicating recovery properties of a fabric in which a yarn comprising filament yarn and an elastane yarn in its core, is used

In the case of force application of fabric, required amount of force for bursting the fabric ((Bursting Strength (kPa)): 367 kPa

Recovery along width (recovery weft)

Recovery along length (recovery warp): %98

Graph 3. Graph indicating the change in the strain with respect to applied force for the fabric in which a yarn comprising a filament yarn and an elastane yarn in its core, is used

Test whose results are given above are performed using a ZWICK ROELL machine, where fabric is placed between 2 chins and stretching the fabric by one of the chins towards upper direction. Expressions used in the tables are explained below.

Fmax (N): Power during the last change (measured value)

S (Strain): Strain (measured value). Strain on the fabric

C (Remaining Strain): Remaining strain-strain remaining on the fabric D (Restored Strain): Restored Strain-strain on the fabric during restoring

A: Decrease in the force due to time period-recession of the force applied to the fabric. Recorded time of the load point during the last round.

B: Decrease in the effect due to the applied force.

• Strain preset · Initial change

• Final Change

R (Elastic Recovery): Elastic Recovery (a measure related to the recovery behaviour of the fabric after application of the force is ceased)

Modulus : Preset force; relation between the applied force and the strain (S) Width: Sample Width

As indicated by the test results given above, the amount of stretching with respect to the applied force is increased by the fabric of the invention. The invention also increased the bursting strain due to increased fabric strain. Recovery level improves with increasing modulus values in fabrics. Fabrics with lower modulus values are stretched under influence of weaker forces, however fail to recover after the force is ceased. It is observed that the modulus value of the fabric of the invention is higher with respect to the fabrics of the prior art.

Claims

1. A yarn comprising natural fiber, regenerated fiber, synthetic fiber or a combination thereof, wherein; in its core, it comprises

• at least one filament yarn comprising regenerated or synthetic materials · at least one elastane yarn.

2. A method for the production of the yarn according to claim 1 , wherein; it comprises,

• spinning process of the obtained filament, · feeding at least one filament yarn comprising regenerated or synthetic materials along with at least one elastane yarn, to the core of the filament which has been spun during the spinning process,

• twisting and winding process steps.

3. The method according to claim 2, wherein; threshing, willowing, heckle, draw-frame, roving and spinning processes are applied respectively to fibers comprising natural fiber, regenerated fiber, synthetic fiber or a combination thereof, before the roving process.

4. A fabric comprising yarn according to claim 1 .

5. The fabric according to claim 4, wherein; said fabric is a circular knitted fabric.