WO2018218497A1 - Composition d'émulsion de pickering comprenant des perles en phase grasse - Google Patents

Composition d'émulsion de pickering comprenant des perles en phase grasse Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2018218497A1
WO2018218497A1 PCT/CN2017/086588 CN2017086588W WO2018218497A1 WO 2018218497 A1 WO2018218497 A1 WO 2018218497A1 CN 2017086588 W CN2017086588 W CN 2017086588W WO 2018218497 A1 WO2018218497 A1 WO 2018218497A1
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Prior art keywords
composition
weight
ester
oil
hydrophobic
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PCT/CN2017/086588
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English (en)
Inventor
Xiaoming Wu
Xiuxia Wang
Original Assignee
L'oreal
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Priority to CN201780093582.4A priority Critical patent/CN110891545B/zh
Priority to PCT/CN2017/086588 priority patent/WO2018218497A1/fr
Publication of WO2018218497A1 publication Critical patent/WO2018218497A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/20—Halogens; Compounds thereof
    • A61K8/21—Fluorides; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/88—Polyamides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the field of cosmetics, and especially to the field of compositions in the form of visible droplets in suspension in a liquid.
  • compositions which appeal to consumers on account of their aesthetic nature exist currently on the market. These compositions consist of two mutually immiscible phases, which are mixed together extemporaneously by shaking before use.
  • Pickering emulsion due to its aesthetic nature and surfactant-free property, is of great interest of the consumers and widely used in the cosmetic products.
  • Finely divided solid particles are adsorbed at the interface between the oil and the homogeneous mixture, and serve to stabilize the oil droplets.
  • FR1160798 disclosed a Pickering emulsion comprising apolar hydrocarbon-based oil, C 1 -C 4 monoalcohol, and hydrophobic silica aerogel particles.
  • a composition comprising a dispersed fatty phase which comprises hydrocarbon-based polar oil (s) , ester (s) terminated poly (ester-amide) , ester (s) of dextrin and fatty acid, white pigment (s) , and a continuous aqueous phase comprising hydrophilic gelling agent (s) and hydrophobic silicas can solve the problems mentioned above.
  • a subject of the present invention is a composition in form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising:
  • a dispersed fatty phase comprising:
  • ester terminated poly (ester-amide) at least one ester terminated poly (ester-amide)
  • - pigment in a form of a porous or non-porous, spherical or non-spherical, mineral or organic white particle having a refractive index of greater than or equal to 1.6 and a size by volume of less than 30 ⁇ m, and
  • the other subject of the present invention is a process for making up/caring for the keratin materials, for example the skin, in particular the face and the lips, by applying to the keratin materials the composition of the present invention.
  • Pickering emulsion refers to an emulsion that is stabilized by solid particles (for example colloidal silica) which adsorb onto the interface between the two phases.
  • keratin material means the skin (of the body, face and around the eyes) , hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, bodily hair, nails, lips or mucous membranes.
  • visible oil droplets refers to the oil droplets with a median particle size by volume Dv50 ranging from 0.01 mm to 10 mm.
  • the oil droplets are visible by observing them using the bear eyes.
  • the term “stability” means a composition that does not undergo any significant change in its structure or properties for at least one month after its manufacture and especially for at least two months after its manufacture.
  • composition of the present invention that does not undergo any significant change in its structure or properties during transportation, and during filling process.
  • composition of the present invention aims at solving the problems as listed above.
  • the composition comprises a dispersed fatty phase.
  • the dispersed fatty phase comprises at least one oil.
  • the fatty phase of the present invention is in form of droplets.
  • the droplets have a median particle size by volume Dv50 from 0.01 mm to 10 mm, preferably from 0.05 mm to 5 mm.
  • the droplets have a median particle size by volume Dv50 of 0.1 mm.
  • the median particle size by volume Dv50 is a parameter for particle size distribution, referring to the maximum particle diameter below which 50%of the sample volume exists (see in A Basic Guide To Particle Characterization, page 10, published by Malvern Instruments Limited in 2012) .
  • the particle size by volume Dv50 of the oil droplets may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial granulometer such as the MasterSizer 3000 machine from Malvern.
  • the data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory.
  • This theory which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles, " Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
  • the composition may comprise a fatty phase presenting in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1%to 40%by weight, preferably from 1%to 30%by weight, and more preferably from 3%to 20%by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition in accordance with the present invention comprises a dispersed fatty phase, wherein it comprises at least one hydrocarbon-based polar oil.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil (or “hydrocarbonated oil” , or “hydrocarbon oil” ) means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • the oil can be volatile or nonvolatile.
  • volatile means an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mmHg) , preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.1 to 10 mmHg) .
  • nonvolatile means an oil whose vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa) .
  • polar oil means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, ⁇ a, is otherthan 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 .
  • ⁇ a ( ⁇ p 2 + ⁇ h 2 ) 1/2 .
  • oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • additional nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based polar oil may be chosen from the list of oils below, and mixtures thereof:
  • hydrocarbon-based plant oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, or caprylic and/or capric acid triglycerides, for example the one sold under the tradename 318 by the company Cognis (BASF) ;
  • - fatty acid esters in particular of 4 to 22 carbon atoms, and especially of octanoic acid, heptanoic acid, lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid or stearic acid, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate or neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;
  • R 1 COOR 2 the oils of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R 1 +R 2 ⁇ 16, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate) , isononyl isononanoate, C 12 to C 15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricin
  • R 1 represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid
  • R 2 represents a hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid residue
  • h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9
  • - fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms which are preferably branched, for instance octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol;
  • oils of plant origin such as sesame oil (820.6 g/mol) ;
  • the oil suitable for the composition of the present invention is the oils of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R 1 +R 2 ⁇ 16, more preferably isononyl isononanoate.
  • the at least one polar oil is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.05%to 20%by weight, preferably from 0.1%to 10%by weight, and more preferably from 0.2%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises, in a dispersed fatty phase, at least one ester terminated poly (ester-amide) .
  • hydrophobic it may be meant a polymer which is repelled from water, i.e. which is not miscible with water.
  • ester terminated polymer it may be meant a polymer comprising at least one chemical function ester (R a -C (O) -O-R’ a ) as a terminal moiety.
  • ester R a -C (O) -O-R’ a
  • such polymers and their methods of preparation are described in the WO 02/092663 patent application.
  • said polymer comprises at least one dimer dilinoleate unit, optionally hydrogenated.
  • the hydrophobic polymer is bis-stearyl ethylenediamine/neopentyl glycol/hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer.
  • bis-stearyl ethylenediamine/neopentyl glycol/hydrogenated dimer dilinoleate copolymer also called polyamide-8, commercialized by Arizona chemical under the name Sylvaclear TM C75V or by Croda, Inc., under the name OleoCraft LP-20 (CAS RN is 678991-29-2) .
  • the amount of the hydrophobic polymer is comprised from 0.05%to 10%by weight, preferably from 0.1%to 5%by weight, more preferably from 0.1%to 3%by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises, in a dispersed fatty phase, at least one ester of dextrin, preferably an ester of dextrin and a fatty acid, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably a C 12 to C 24 fatty acid.
  • the dextrin ester is an ester of dextrine and a C 14 -C 18 fatty acid.
  • the dextrin ester is dextrin myristate, for example such as those commercialized under the references Rheopearl by the company CHIBA FLOUR.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise a content of dextrin ester ranging from 0.01%to 10%by weight and preferably from 0.01%to 5%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the particular pigment (s) used in the composition according to the invention denotes a mineral or organic particle which is insoluble in an aqueous solution, said particle being white, spherical or non-spherical and porous or non-porous, and having a refractive index of greater than or equal to 1.6, in particular greater than or equal to 1.8, preferably ranging from 1.6 to 2.5.
  • the “pigments” according to the invention have a size by volume of preferably less than 30 ⁇ m, in particular less than 15 ⁇ m.
  • the “pigments” according to the invention have a size by volume of more than 500 nm,preferably more than 1 ⁇ m, and preferably less than 30 ⁇ m, in particular less than 15 ⁇ m.
  • said pigments are in the form of a white powder.
  • white is intended to mean in particular white and derivatives thereof (off-white, alabaster white, silver white, etc. ) or with a silvery, white tint, as opposed to primary colours and derivatives.
  • the “white” pigments have a luminance value L close to 100 in the TSL (tint, saturation, luminance) system.
  • the colorimetric measurements L*and C*in the CIE Lab 1976 colorimetric space may be performed using a MINOLTA colorimetric chromameter.
  • the pigment is pre-dispersed (grinded with tricylinder) in a transparent cosmetic medium in a %able to confere opacity (ex: 5-6%of pigment) and then introduced into a 15 ml jar (aperture diameter: 1, 9 cm; depth: 1, 8 cm) .
  • the surface of the cosmetic medium introduced is smoothed out by flattening with a glass slide.
  • the colorimeter cell is then placed in contact with this surface and the colorimetric parameters are determined.
  • the MINOLTA colorimetric chromameter is calibrated with a white reference (white ceramic for calibration such as Spectralon) with lighthness L*value of 100 and saturation C*value of 0, and a trap light.
  • the ‘white’ pigments of the invention will have in particular lightness L*value superior or equal to 95 and saturation C*value inferior or equal to 3 according to the previous disclosed protocol.
  • the composition of the invention comprises at least one pigment in the form of a porous or non-porous, spherical or non-spherical, mineral or organic white particle having a refractive index of greater than or equal to 1.6 and a size by volume of preferably less than 30 ⁇ m, in particular size by volume of more than 500 nm, preferably of more than 1 ⁇ m, and less than 30 ⁇ m.
  • Said pigments (i) are in particular chosen from titanium oxides, zinc oxides, optionally dispersed bismuth oxychloride, insoluble barium salts, in particular barium sulphate, calcium carbonate, calcium sulphate, plaster, natural powders of mineral, animal or vegetable origin, chalk powder, gypsum powder, alabaster powder or selenite powder, egg-shell or shellfish powders, vegetable ivory, and mixtures thereof.
  • Bismuth oxychloride can be used as it is (in powder form) or advantageously in the form of a dispersion in an ester oil, chosen in particular from isodecyl neopentanoate; isocetyl octanoate; isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, isostearyl isostearate; and mixtures thereof.
  • the dispersion of bismuth oxychloride comprises 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, such as the product sold under the name Liquid Silver by the company MERCK.
  • white pigments (i) of white-tinted interference pigments, such as fluorphlogopite-based composite particles coated with titanium oxide and with tin oxide, for instance those sold under the name SYNCRYSTAL SILVER by the company ECKART, which are distinct from interference pigments with a non-white coloured tint, such as, in particular, the Timiron Silk Blue mica/titanium oxide/tin oxide blue-tinted pearlescent agents.
  • white-tinted interference pigments such as fluorphlogopite-based composite particles coated with titanium oxide and with tin oxide, for instance those sold under the name SYNCRYSTAL SILVER by the company ECKART, which are distinct from interference pigments with a non-white coloured tint, such as, in particular, the Timiron Silk Blue mica/titanium oxide/tin oxide blue-tinted pearlescent agents.
  • said pigments (i) are white-tinted interference pigments.
  • said pigments (i) are chosen from titanium oxides, zinc oxides, optionally dispersed bismuth oxychloride, insoluble barium salts, in particular barium sulphate, calcium carbonate, calcium sulphate, plaster, natural powders of mineral, animal or vegetable origin, chalk powder, gypsum powder, alabaster powder or selenite powder, egg-shell or shellfish powders, vegetable ivory and mixtures thereof, preferably from titanium oxides, zinc oxides and mixtures thereof, and are not interference pigments.
  • the composition comprises as pigments (i) , at least titanium oxides and optionnally in association white-tinted interference pigments.
  • pigments (i) according to the invention are titanium oxides encapsulated in silica particles, such as particles of porous silica comprising titanium dioxides, in particular sold under the name God Ball PC-LS by the company Suzuki Oil and Fat or PC-LS-14 by MIYOSHI KASEI; such particles are additional fillers according to the invention, as described hereinafter.
  • silica particles such as particles of porous silica comprising titanium dioxides, in particular sold under the name God Ball PC-LS by the company Suzuki Oil and Fat or PC-LS-14 by MIYOSHI KASEI; such particles are additional fillers according to the invention, as described hereinafter.
  • the pigments (i) are chosen from coated or uncoated titanium oxides of rutile or anatase form.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least coated or uncoated titanium oxides of rutile or anatase form.
  • the pigments used according to the invention may or may not be totally or partially surface-treated with at least one hydrophilic or hydrophobic treatment agent.
  • the surface treatment of a pigment according to the invention generally denotes total or partial surface treatment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.
  • the surface-treated pigments can be prepared according to techniques for surface treatment of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature that are well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.
  • the surface agent may be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction or creation of a covalent bond.
  • the surface treatment can represent from 0.1 to 50%by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 5%by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment.
  • the surface treatment can be carried out, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent at the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the pigments and of said surface agent, optionally under hot conditions, prior to the incorporation of said pigments into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.
  • the surface treatment can be carried out, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the particles. This method is in particular described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,578,266.
  • the chemical surface treatment can consist in diluting the surface agent in a volatile solvent, in dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then in slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, such that the surface agent is deposited at the surface of the pigments.
  • This volatile solvent may be water.
  • the pigments according to the invention can be surface-treated with at least one hydrophobic or lipophilic treatment agent chosen from silicone surface agents; fluorinated surface agents; fluorosilicone surface agents; metal soaps, N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; vegetable or animal natural waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; fatty alcohols; phospholipids, and mixtures thereof.
  • silicone surface agents chosen from silicone surface agents; fluorinated surface agents; fluorosilicone surface agents; metal soaps, N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; vegetable or animal natural waxes, polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; fatty alcohols; phospholipids, and mixtures thereof.
  • the pigments are surface-treated with N-acylated amino acids or salts thereof.
  • the N-acylated amino acids can comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
  • the salts of these compounds may be the aluminium, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.
  • the amino acid may, for example, be lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. In particular, it will be lauroyllysine.
  • the pigments may be surface-treated with at least one hydrophilic treatment agent chosen from biological polymers, carbohydrates, polysaccharides, polyacrylates or polyethylene glycol derivatives. Mention may also be made of mineral agents such as silica, silicates, alumina and mixtures thereof (for example: silica/alumina) .
  • biological polymers for coating the materials to be solubilized according to the invention, mention may be made of polymers based on monomers of carbohydrate type, in particular those derived from algae, from land plants, from fungi or from biotechnologies, from plankton or from arthropod shells.
  • guar gum locust bean gum, xanthan gum, gum arabic, sclerotium gum; konjac, carrageenans, alginates and derivatives thereof, pectins, agar-agar; glycogen; dextran; starch and derivatives thereof; cellulose and derivatives thereof; hyaluronic acid salts, such as sodium hyaluronate, and derivatives thereof; soluble proteoglycans; glycosaminoglycans, chitins, chitosans and derivatives thereof, and mixtures thereof.
  • C 1 -C 20 glycol alkylenes or C 1 -C 20 glycol alkylene ethers, alone or used in combination with tri-C 1 -C 20 -alkylsilanes, can also be used as surface-treatment agents.
  • pigments surface-treated with PEG alkyl ether alkoxysilane for instance the pigments treated with PEG-8-methyl ether triethoxysilane sold by the company KOBO under the name “SW” pigments.
  • the pigments (i) preferentially used are coated or uncoated, encapsulated or non-encapsulated titanium dioxides TiO 2 of rutile or anatase form.
  • the composition of the invention comprises at least titanium oxides, in particular TiO 2 which are surface-treated with alumina/silica/trimethylolpropane, sold under the names Tipaque PF671 from Ishihara Sangyo and SA-TAO from Myoshi Kasei.
  • the composition of the invention comprises at least one bismuth oxychloride optionally dispersed in 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate, such as the product sold under the name Liquid Silver by the company MERCK.
  • the composition of the invention comprises at least fluorphlogopite-based composite particles coated with titanium oxide and with tin oxide, such as those sold under the name SYNCRYSTAL SILVER by the company ECKART.
  • Said pigments (i) are generally present in a composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.1%to 4%by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 3%by weight (of active material for the case where the pigment is dispersed in a vehicle or coated) , relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • white-tinted interference pigments (i) as is the case of the fluorphlogopite-based composite particles coated with titanium oxide and with tin oxide mentioned above, they will preferably be present in the composition in an amount from 0.01%to 2%by weight, especially from 0.02%to 1%by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the composition comprises a continuous aqueous phase.
  • Said aqueous phase is preferably present in an amount ranging from 60%to 99.9%by weight, more preferably from 65%to 90%by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • the continuous aqueous phase may comprise water, at least one organic solvent miscible with water or mixtures thereof.
  • the continuous aqueous phase comprises at least one organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature-25°C) such as for example monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols notably having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylylglycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (notably having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di-or tri-propylene glycol (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl ethers, mono-, di-or tri-ethylene glycol (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl ethers; and mixtures thereof.
  • organic solvent miscible with water such as for example monoalcohols having from 2 to
  • the continuous aqueous phase of the composition of the invention preferably comprises water and at least a polyol, preferably butylene glycol, glycerol, or propylene glycol.
  • the continuous aqueous phase comprises water, a mixture of polyols, preferably butylene glycol, glycerol, and propylene glycol.
  • water is present in an amount ranging from 40%to 95%by weight, more preferably from 60%to 90%by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • the organic solvent (s) miscible with water is (are) present in an amount ranging from 5%to 80%by weight, more preferably from 7%to 20%by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • hydrophilic gelling agent means a compound that is capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention.
  • the gelling agent is hydrophilic and is thus present in the aqueous phase of the composition.
  • the gelling agent may be water-soluble or water-dispersible.
  • the hydrophilic gelling agent can be chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, gelling agents of natural origin, or polysaccharides of biotechnological origin.
  • the term "synthetic" means that the polymer is neither naturally existing nor a derivative of a polymer of natural origin.
  • synthetic hydrophilic gelling agents include particulate synthetic polymeric gelling agents, non-particulate synthetic polymeric gelling agents such as associative polymers, polyacrylamides and crosslinked and/or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid polymers and copolymers, modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers.
  • the term "particulate" means that the polymer is in the form of particles, preferably spherical particles.
  • Gelling agents of natural origin or polysaccharides of biotechnological origin include algal extracts, gums, sctarches, dextrins, celluloses, pectins, chitosan and derivatives, polyholosides, or anionic polysaccharides.
  • the hydrophilic gelling agent that is suitable to the present invention is selected from the group consisting of modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, gums, or a mixture thereof.
  • the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers may be copolymers derived from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) chosen from ⁇ , ⁇ -ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids or esters thereof, with at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer (b) comprising a hydrophobic group.
  • copolymers means both copolymers obtained from two types of monomer and those obtained from more than two types of monomer, such as terpolymers obtained from three types of monomer.
  • hydrophobic group or unit means a radical with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferentially from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • these copolymers are chosen from copolymers derived from the polymerization:
  • R 1 denotes H or CH 3 or C 2 H 5 , i.e. acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid monomers
  • R 2 denotes H or CH 3 or C 2 H 5 (i.e. acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units) and preferably H (acrylate units) or CH 3 (methacrylate units)
  • R 3 denoting a C 10 -C 30 and preferably C 12 -C 22 alkyl radical.
  • the unsaturated carboxylic acid (C 10 -C 30 ) alkyl esters are preferably chosen from lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, such as lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.
  • these polymers are crosslinked.
  • copolymers of this type that will be used more particularly are polymers derived from the polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising:
  • R 2 denotes H or CH 3
  • R 3 denoting an alkyl radical containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms
  • crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth) acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly) ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylenebisacrylamide.
  • copolymers of this type use will more particularly be made of those consisting of from 95%to 60%by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit) , 4%to 40%by weight of C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0 to 6%by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or alternatively those consisting of from 98%to 96%by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit) , 1%to 4%by weight of C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1%to 0.6%by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described previously.
  • acrylate/C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylate copolymers such as the products sold by the company Lubrizol under the trade names Pemulen TM TR-1, Pemulen TM TR-2, 1382, EDT 2020 and Ultrez 20 Polymer, and even more preferentially Pemulen TM TR-2.
  • modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers mention may also be made of sodium polyacrylates such as those sold under the name Cosmedia containing 90%solids and 10%water, or Cosmedia as an inverse emulsion containing about 60%solids, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5) , both sold by the company Cognis.
  • Cosmedia containing 90%solids and 10%water
  • Cosmedia as an inverse emulsion containing about 60%solids
  • an oil hydroogenated polydecene
  • PPG-5 Laureth-5 a surfactant
  • the modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers may also be chosen from crosslinked (meth) acrylic acid homopolymers.
  • (meth) acrylic means "acrylic or methacrylic” .
  • Examples that may be mentioned include the products sold by Lubrizol under the names Carbopol 910, 934, 940, 941, 934 P, 980, 981, 2984, 5984 and Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer, or by 3V-Sigma under the name K, L or M.
  • carboxyvinyl polymers examples include Carbopol (INCI name: carbomer) and Pemulen (CTFA name: Acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer) sold by the company Lubrizol.
  • the gums that are useful to the present invention are, for example, xanthan gum, gellan gum, guar gum and nonionic derivatives thereof (hydroxypropyl guar) , gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan gum, gum tragacanth, ghatti gum, karaya gum, locust bean gum; agar gum, scleroglucan gums and mixtures thereof; examples that may be mentioned include the xanthan gum sold under the name CG-T by the company CP Kelco, the gellan gum sold under the name the CG LA by the company CP Kelco, the guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP by the company Rhodia; mannan gum and konjac (1%glucomannan) sold by the company GfN.
  • the gelling agent is selected from acrylate/C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylate copolymers, xanthan gum, gellan gum, or a mixture thereof.
  • the hydrophilic gelling agent may be present in a proportion of from 0.05%to 5%by weight, in particular from 0.1%to 3%by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention comprises, in a continuous aqueous phase, hydrophobic silica.
  • hydrophobic silica is understood to mean, in the context of the present invention, both pure hydrophobic silicas and particles coated with hydrophobic silica.
  • the hydrophobic silicas which can be used in the composition of the invention are amorphous and of fumed origin. They are preferably provided in the pulverulent form.
  • the amorphous hydrophobic silicas of fumed origin are obtained from hydrophilic silicas.
  • the latter are obtained by pyrolysis of silicon tetrachloride (SiCl 4 ) in a continuous flame at 1000°C in the presence of hydrogen and oxygen. They are subsequently rendered hydrophobic by treatment with halogenated silanes, alkoxysilanes or silazanes.
  • the hydrophobic silicas differ from the starting hydrophilic silicas, inter alia, in a lower density of silanol groups and in a smaller adsorption of water vapour.
  • the hydrophobic silica is preferably chosen from silicas having a specific surface of from 50 to 500 m 2 /g and a number-average particle size ranging from 3 to 50 nm. These are more particularly the hydrophobic silicas described in the following table, and their mixtures.
  • the hydrophobic silica used in the composition of the invention can also consist of a particle completely or partially covered with silica, in particular of an inorganic particle completely or partially covered with hydrophobic silica, such as pigments and metal oxides covered with hydrophobic silica.
  • These particles can also have optical properties in the product and on the skin; for example, they can have a mattifying or slightly whitening effect.
  • hydrophobic silica of a hydrophobic fumed silica treated at the surface with a dimethylsiloxane, such as that sold under the name Aerosil R972 (INCI name: Silica Dimethyl Silylate) by Evonik Degussa.
  • the hydrophobic silica which can be used in the composition of the invention are aerogel particles of hydrophobic silica exhibiting a specific surface per unit of weight (SW) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 /g and a size, expressed as volume-average diameter (D [0.5] , also known as median particle size by volume Dv50) , ranging from 1 to 1500 ⁇ m.
  • SW surface per unit of weight
  • D [0.5] volume-average diameter
  • Dv50 median particle size by volume Dv50
  • Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
  • sol-gel processes are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical CO 2 . This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material.
  • the sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990.
  • the aerogel particles of hydrophobic silica used in the present invention exhibit a specific surface per unit of weight (SW) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 /g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 /g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 /g, and a size, expressed as volume-average diameter (D [0.5] , also known as median particle size by volume Dv50) , ranging from 1 to 1500 ⁇ m, better still from 1 to 1000 ⁇ m, preferably from 1 to 100 ⁇ m, in particular from 1 to 30 ⁇ m, more preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ m, better still from 5 to 20 ⁇ m and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ m.
  • SW specific surface per unit of weight
  • D [0.5] also known as median particle size by volume Dv50
  • the aerogel particles of hydrophobic silica used in the present invention exhibit a size, expressed as volume-average diameter (D [0.5] , also known as median particle size by volume Dv50) , ranging from 1 to 30 ⁇ m, preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ m, better still from 5 to 20 ⁇ m and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ m.
  • D [0.5] volume-average diameter
  • Dv50 median particle size by volume
  • the specific surface per unit of weight can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D) .
  • the BET specific surface corresponds to the total specific surface of the particles under consideration.
  • the sizes of the aerogel silica particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyser of MasterSizer 2000 type from Malvern. The data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles” , Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
  • the aerogel particles of hydrophobic silica used in the present invention exhibit a specific surface per unit of weight (SW) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g and a size, expressed as volume-average diameter (D [0.5] , also known as median particle size by volume Dv50) , ranging from 5 to 20 ⁇ m and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ m.
  • SW specific surface per unit of weight
  • D [0.5] volume-average diameter
  • Dv50 volume-average diameter
  • the aerogel silica particles used in the present invention can advantageously exhibit a packed density ( ⁇ ) ranging from 0.04 g/cm 3 to 0.10 g/cm 3 and preferably from 0.05 g/cm 3 to 0.08 g/cm 3 .
  • this density known as the packed density
  • this density can be assessed according to the following protocol:
  • the aerogel particles of hydrophobic silica used in the present invention exhibit a specific surface per unit of volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 /cm 3 , preferablyfrom 10 to 50 m 2 /cm 3 and better still from 15 to 40 m 2 /cm 3 .
  • the aerogel particles of hydrophobic silica according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml/g and better still from 8 to 12 ml/g.
  • the absorption capacity measured at the wet point corresponds to the amount of oil which it is necessaryto add to 100 g of particles in orderto obtain a homogeneous paste.
  • the oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/w.
  • the aerogels used according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably ofsilylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate) .
  • hydrophobic silica is understood to mean any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
  • silylating agents for example with halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes
  • hydrophobic silica aerogels which can be used in the invention, for example, of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by Dow Corning, the particles of which exhibit an average size of approximately 1000 microns and a specific surface per unit of weight ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g.
  • Aerogel TLD 201 Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201 and Aerogel TLD 203.
  • the hydrophobic silica is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01%to 5%by weight, preferably from 0.02%to 3%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsion for making up/caring for the keratin materials, comprising, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • a dispersed fatty phase comprising:
  • R 1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain, which is especially branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R 1 +R 2 ⁇ 16,
  • composition according to the invention further comprises at least one compound chosen from hydrophilic solvents, lipophilic solvents, additional oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration, chosen, for example, from fillers or viscosity increasing agents, resins, additional thickening agents, structuring agents such as waxes, dispersants, antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen-protecting agents, and mixtures thereof.
  • any additive usually used in the field under consideration chosen, for example, from fillers or viscosity increasing agents, resins, additional thickening agents, structuring agents such as waxes, dispersants, antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, UV-screening agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen-protecting agents, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the invention is in form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • the composition of the present invention is in form of an oil-in-water Pickering emulsion.
  • composition of the present invention has a fatty phase in form of droplets, in particular visible oil droplets, with a median particle size by volume Dv50 from 0.01 mm to 5 mm, preferably from 0.05 mm to 2 mm.
  • composition of the present invention may have the appearance of a cream, a gel, particularly a transparent gel, an ointment, milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste.
  • the viscosity of the gel according to the invention is superior or equal to 20 UD (Mobile 2) by Rheomat at 25°C.
  • the viscosity is generally measured at 25°C with a viscosimeter RHEOMAT RM 180 with Mobile 2 adapted to the viscosity of the product to be tested (mobile is chosen for having a measure between 10 and 90 for UD Unit Deviation) , the measure being made after 10mn rotating the mobile inside the composition, with a cisaillement from 200s-1.
  • the composition contains a gelified aqueous phase.
  • composition of the present invention can be used for a non-theraputic process, such as a cosmetic process or method, for making up/caring for the keratin materials, such as the skin, in particular the face and the lips, by being applied to the skin, especially the face and the lips.
  • a non-theraputic process such as a cosmetic process or method
  • the present invention also relates to a use of the composition according to the present invention, as it is or in cosmetic product for making up/caring for/cleansing/make up removing products for the skin, especially for the face and the lips.
  • Example 1 formulation example
  • Comparative formula 2 does not contain ester of dextrin and a fatty acid as claimed;
  • Comparative formula 3 does not contain a ester terminated poly (ester-amide) as claimed;
  • Comparative formula 4 does not contain hydrophobic silica as claimed.
  • oil phase A 60°C
  • water phase 50°C
  • the stability tests at 4°C stability for two months were conducted using Zhongke Meiling refrigerator (YC-260L, China) , by leaving the invention and comparative formulas in the refrigerator for 2 months.
  • the freezing-thaw stability tests were conducted for 10 cycles using Binder over (USA) . In each cycle, the temperature will be changed gradually from 20°C to-20°C in 24 hours.
  • the invention formula 1 has a good stability under all types of stability tests mentioned above.

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Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition sous la forme d'une émulsion d'huile dans l'eau comprenant : a) une phase grasse dispersée comprenant : - au moins une huile polaire à base d'hydrocarbure, - au moins un poly (ester-amide) à terminaison ester, - au moins un ester de dextrine et un acide gras, - un pigment sous la forme d'une particule blanche poreuse ou non poreuse, sphérique ou non sphérique, minérale ou organique ayant un indice de réfraction supérieur ou égal à 1,6 et une taille en volume inférieure à 30 µm, et b) une phase aqueuse continue comprenant : - au moins un agent gélifiant hydrophile, - des silices hydrophobes.
PCT/CN2017/086588 2017-05-31 2017-05-31 Composition d'émulsion de pickering comprenant des perles en phase grasse WO2018218497A1 (fr)

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CN115813844A (zh) * 2022-03-03 2023-03-21 广州真极和美生物科技有限公司 一种凝脂油珠精华组合物及其制备方法
CN114557949B (zh) * 2022-03-07 2023-09-15 欧诗漫生物股份有限公司 一种含珍珠粉的皮克林乳液组合物及其制备方法

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WO2014154113A1 (fr) * 2013-03-25 2014-10-02 L'oreal Composition transparente comprenant un organogélifiant non polymère
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WO2014154113A1 (fr) * 2013-03-25 2014-10-02 L'oreal Composition transparente comprenant un organogélifiant non polymère
WO2015089750A1 (fr) * 2013-12-18 2015-06-25 L'oreal Composition d'émulsion de pickering comprenant une faible quantité d'alcool
WO2016008121A1 (fr) * 2014-07-16 2016-01-21 L'oreal Composition d'écran solaire pulvérisable comprenant des billes d'huile

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