WO2018150104A1

WO2018150104A1 - Composition for treating dry skin, in particular for treating erythema

Info

Publication number: WO2018150104A1
Application number: PCT/FR2017/050351
Authority: WO
Inventors: Amélie ROY
Original assignee: Urgo Recherche Innovation Et Developpement; Hcp Healthcare Asia Pte. Ltd
Priority date: 2017-02-16
Filing date: 2017-02-16
Publication date: 2018-08-23

Abstract

The present invention relates to a topical composition for treating dry skin, in particular for treating erythema. The composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water emulsion that can be inverted by friction and that contains allantoin, vitamin E and a Calendula officinalis extract as active ingredients.

Description

Composition for the treatment of cutaneous dryness, in particular for the treatment of erythema

The present invention relates to a topical composition for the treatment of cutaneous dryness, in particular for the treatment of erythema. The composition according to the invention is a friction-reversible oil-in-water emulsion which contains as active at least allantoin, vitamin E and an extract of Calendula officinalis.

For reasons of homogeneous distribution of the active ingredients, pharmaceutical or cosmetic compositions using active agents are most often in the form of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion. In these compositions, the active agents are distributed in the oily phase or in the aqueous phase as a function of their chemical properties.

To treat cutaneous dryness, in particular that related to erythema, compositions having moisturizing properties, freshness on application and giving a light sensorality are particularly sought after. The compositions according to the present invention soothe and repair the damaged epidermis.

It is further noted that in the particular case of compositions containing natural or naturally occurring ingredients, the sensation of fatness and heaviness upon application may be accentuated for water-in-oil emulsions. The present invention therefore aims to provide compositions containing active ingredients, in particular naturally occurring active ingredients, with moisturizing properties, freshness on application and giving a slight sensoriality while ensuring a uniform distribution of active ingredients on the skin. skin.

The Applicant has discovered that the use of allantoin, vitamin E and an extract of Calendula officinalis in a friction-reversible oil-in-water emulsion, comprising at least one hydrophilic surfactant and at least one lipophilic surfactant, allows to obtain a composition having freshness properties upon application and imparting a light sensorality.

Thus, the present invention relates to a friction-reversible oil-in-water emulsion, comprising: (i) allantoin, vitamin E and an extract of Calendula officinalis, and

(ii) a combination of at least one hydrophilic surfactant and at least one lipophilic surfactant.

Such a composition allows the treatment of cutaneous dryness, in particular the treatment of erythema. Thus, the present invention also relates to the use of such an emulsion for relieving cutaneous dryness, in particular erythema.

The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium. Here, the term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium compatible with the skin. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic skin treatment method, comprising the application on the skin of a composition according to the present invention.

The phase inversion technology used in the present invention is the SWOP technology: the oil-in-water emulsion composition is reversed in phase when it is applied because of the friction caused, in other words thanks to the mechanical energy induced by the user's gestures to the application.

In fact, this technique produces a lipophilic film on the skin more rapidly than when using the conventional inversion process which comprises the application of an oil-in-water emulsion and the evaporation of the aqueous phase.

On a sensory level, particularly from the point of view of absorption, tackiness and softness of application, the benefits of oil-in-water emulsions are observed while retaining the advantages of water-based emulsions. in-oil. It is the choice of surfactants which is decisive for providing this phase inversion, as is detailed below.

This technology is particularly interesting for the treatment of cutaneous dryness, especially those related to erythema.

Erythema is a relatively common dermatological lesion characterized by congestive redness of the skin, diffuse or localized, disappearing at the vitropression (that is to say in support, via a watch glass). This is usually the external manifestation of vasodilation, that is, an increase in the volume of the blood vessels in the skin. In the majority of cases, this elemental lesion is not accompanied by other local modifications.

Erythema is classified into two categories, diffuse or localized erythema. Among the diffuse erythema, there are:

- the morbilliform erythema resembling the spots caused by measles (presence of irregularly shaped pink spots, with healthy skin intervals between them) due to an infectious viral disease such as measles, rubella, epidemic megalerythema, coxsackie virus, infectious mononucleosis; to a bacterial or parasitic disease such as toxoplasmosis; or of iatrogenic origin, for example due to the use of antibiotics or barbiturates;

- scarlatiniform erythema resembling the spots caused by scarlet fever (diffuse patches bright red, slightly granitated on palpation, no interval of healthy skin, hot or stinging, intensifying in the folds and may evolve to desquamation in large flaps) due to an infectious bacterial disease such as scarlet fever, toxic shock syndrome and staphylococcal or streptococcal septicemia; Kawasaki disease; or of iatrogenic origin, for example due to the use of antibiotics or barbiturates, or to a poisoning by mercury (mercurial erythema);

- Roseoliform or rubella-like erythema resembling the spots caused by roseola or rubella (small pinkish, pale and well separated macules) due to an infection, such as sudden exanthem, roseola, rubella, primary infection, HIV, secondary syphilis, typhoid fever or enterovirus infection; or of iatrogenic origin, for example due to the use of antibiotics or barbiturates.

Among the localized erythema, we classify:

- Actinic erythema or sunburn, which is a burn on the part of the skin that is too exposed to UV B radiation (290 nm-350 nm wavelength); - photodermatoses, which are the result of an abnormally high sensitivity to light following exposure to the sun and include in particular solar allergies (benign summer lucite, polymorphic lucite, solar urticaria); drug photosensitivity triggered by an interaction of light with a drug; aggravation of an existing dermatosis by sun exposure such as lupus erythematosus or solar acne; porphyries; and xeroderma pigmentosum;

- systemic lupus erythematosus and dermatomyositis due to autoimmune disease;

- intertrigo and erysipelas due to infection;

erythema migrans due to a bacterium of the genus Borrelia transmitted by tick bite (Lyme disease);

- diaper rash, identifiable especially in infants where it is usually due to the friction of diapers.

Reversible oil-in-water emulsion

The composition according to the invention is in the form of a reversible oil-in-water emulsion by friction.

The term "reversible oil-in-water emulsion by friction" is understood to mean a metastable oil-in-water emulsion, more particularly an oil-in-water emulsion which is reversed by frictional phase, for example by application of the composition to the composition. skin.

ASSETS

The composition according to the invention comprises allantoin, vitamin E and an extract of Calendula officinalis.

The use of these three active agents in a reversible oil-in-water emulsion by friction gives the composition according to the invention hydration properties, from freshness to application without feeling greasy or sticky on application. , which allows effective relief of dry skin, especially erythema.

The total amount of these three active ingredients in the composition is from 0.01 to 0.3% by weight, preferably from 0.015 to 0.25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. allantoin

Allantoin (or 1- (2,5-dioxoimidazolidin-4-yl) urea) is a nitrogenous chemical compound, of formula C ₄ H ₆ N ₄ O ₃ , of organic or vegetable origin resulting from the oxidation of 'Uric acid. Allantoin is excreted in the urine of most mammals with the exception of large primates (including humans), in which the metabolic pathway transforming uric acid into allantoin does not exist. Allantoin used in cosmetic compositions is generally extracted from the mucus of certain gastropods (snails). In plants, they are found in the roots of comfrey and cereal seeds. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises 0.01 to 0.25, preferably 0.05 to 0.2% by weight of allantoin relative to the weight of the composition.

Vitamin E

Vitamin E is a lipid-soluble vitamin covering a set of eight organic molecules, four tocopherols and four tocotrienols which are listed below: a-tocopherol, β-tocopherol, γ-tocopherol, δ-tocopherol, a-tocotrienol, β-tocotrienol , γ-tocotrienol and δ-tocotrienol.

By "Vitamin E" is therefore meant, within the meaning of the present invention, one of the aforementioned compounds or mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises α-tocopherol.

The most biologically active form of Vitamin E is Γα-tocopherol, γ-tocopherol being the most abundant form in the diet. These molecules are present in large quantities in vegetable oils. They act, in parallel with vitamin C and glutathione, essentially as antioxidants against reactive derivatives of oxygen produced in particular by the oxidation of fatty acids.

The body continually produces free radicals, highly reactive compounds with single electrons. Free radicals damage cellular components as diverse as proteins, lipids or DNA. Radical reactions propagate in a chain: the molecules destabilized by a single electron become in turn free radicals. The role of antioxidants is to stop this process by neutralizing free radicals, to reduce their harmfulness. Thus, vitamin E has the ability to capture and stabilize (by resonance) the single electron of free radicals.

The radical-bearing tocopherol may react with a new free radical to form a neutral species, or be regenerated by vitamin C, glutathione or coenzyme Q10.

Vitamin E mainly plays its role as an antioxidant in biological membranes. Mitochondria, which generate free radicals, contain high levels of vitamin E in their lipid membrane, consisting of polyunsaturated fatty acids and subjected to oxidative stress. According to one particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises 0.01 to 0.05, preferably 0.02 to 0.04% by weight of vitamin E, in particular of α-tocopherol, relative to the weight of the composition.

Calendula offlcinalis extract

The marigold or marigold (Calendula officinalis L., 1753), is a species of short-lived perennial herbaceous plants often cultivated as annual, with yellow flowers or orange-yellow, whose flowering begins in the first days of spring and can last almost year. It is sometimes called gardening concern.

Among the many constituents of Calendula officinalis are essential oils, flavonoids, terpenes (carotenoids), salicylic acid and alcohols. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "Calendula officinalis extract" is intended to mean a composition obtained by extraction of at least one part of the Calendula officinalis-type plant, in particular the flower of Calendula officinalis. The extraction can be carried out with a solvent such as in particular water, an alcohol, an organic solvent, an oil, glycerine, propylene glycol, grease and mixtures thereof; or with a supercritical fluid such as supercritical CO ₂ .

Calendula officinalis has anti-inflammatory, anti-oedematous, antioxidant, anti-viral, anti-tumor and immunomodulatory properties.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises 0.01 to 0.05, preferably 0.02 to 0.04% by weight of extract of Calendula officinalis, in particular flower extract of Calendula officinalis, relative to the weight of the composition.

SURFACE

The composition of the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic surfactant and at least one lipophilic surfactant.

The hydrophilic or lipophilic nature of the surfactant in the sense of the present invention is evaluated with regard to the HLB value.

The HLB value according to GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256. Reference can also be made to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER", Volume 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifier) of surfactants, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants. Hydrophilic surfactant

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrophilic surfactant" means a surfactant having an HLB of greater than or equal to 13.

The hydrophilic surfactant according to the present invention may especially be chosen from fatty acid esters, in particular esters of fatty acids and of glycerol; polysorbates; sucrose esters; and their mixtures.

Examples of fatty acid esters are:

the mixture of sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate and lauryl glucoside in particular as sold by COGNIS under the name of Plantapon LGC Sorb;

polyglyceryl-6-caprylate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-81F;

polyglyceryl-10 oleate, especially as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-171S; - polyglyceryl-5 laurate especially as sold by STRAETMANS under the name of Dermofeel G5 L or by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name of Sunsoft A-12E;

polyglyceryl-4 caprate, especially as sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the name Tegosoft PC 41; polyglyceryl-10 myristate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-14S;

polyglyceryl-10 stearate, especially as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-18Y;

polyglyceryl-5 stearate, especially as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft A-18E;

polyglyceryl-10 laurate in particular as sold by STRAETMANS under the name Dermofeel G10 L or by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-12S; and

polyglyceryl-5 myristate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft A-14E.

Examples of polysorbates are:

polysorbate 21 in particular as sold by CRODA under the name of Tween 21;

polysorbate 60 in particular as sold by CRODA under the name Tween 80 V;

polysorbate 80 in particular as sold by CRODA under the name Crillet 4 super; and

polysorbate 40 in particular as sold by CRODA under the name Tween 40. Examples of sucrose esters are:

sucrose stearate, especially as sold by CRODA under the name Crodesta F-160 or sold by SISTERNA under the name Sistema SP70-C or sold by MITSUBISHI KAGAKU FOOD under the name Ryoto sugar ester 51570;

sucrose laurate especially as sold by METSUBISHI KAGAKU FOOD under the name Surfhope SE COSME C-1216; sucrose palmitate especially as sold by MITSUBISHI KAGAKU FOOD under the name Surfhope SE COSME C-1616; and

sucrose myristate especially as sold by MITSUBISHI KAGAKU FOOD under the name Surfhope SE COSME C-1416. Other examples of hydrophilic surfactants with an HLB greater than or equal to 13 that can be used in the composition of the present invention are:

- Laureth-4 phosphate in particular as sold by Clariant under the name Hostaphat KL 340 D;

lauroyl sarcosine in particular as sold by CRODA under the name Crodasinic L; and

- Glycereth-25 PCA isostearate especially as sold by NIHON EMULSION under the name Pyroter GPI-25.

According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic surfactant is the mixture of sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate and lauryl glucoside, in particular as sold by the company Cognis (BASF) under the name Plantapon LGC Sorb.

The composition according to the invention may in particular comprise from 0.2 to 2% by weight, and preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, of hydrophilic surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Lipophilic surfactants For the purposes of the invention, the term "lipophilic surfactant" is intended to mean a surfactant having an HLB of less than or equal to 9.

The lipophilic surfactant according to the present invention can in particular be chosen from fatty acid esters, in particular esters of fatty acids and of glycerol; polysorbates; sucrose esters; and their mixtures. Examples of fatty acid esters are:

- polyglyceryl-2 distearate especially as sold by NIHON EMULSION under the name Emalex POSA; polyglyceryl-10 decastearate especially as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-18105;

glycerol oleate especially as sold by COGNIS under the name Monomuls 90-018; the mixture of polyglyceryl-3-ricinoleate and of sorbitan isostearate, especially as sold by CRODA under the name Arlacel 1690;

- polyglyceryl-2 oleyl ether in particular as sold by CHIMEX under the name of Chimexane NB;

glyceryl stearate, in particular as sold by COGNIS under the name Cutina GMS V;

polyglyceryl-5 hexastearate especially as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft A-186E;

polyglyceryl-10 pentaoleate, in particular as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-175S; polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate especially as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-185S;

glyceryl caprylate / caprate sold especially by STEP under the name Stepan Mild GCC;

- polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate especially as sold by NIKKOL under the name of Hexaglyn PR-15;

polyglyceryl-heptaolate, especially as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-177S;

polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, especially as sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the name Isolan GI 34; 4-polyglyceryl diisostearate polyhydroxystearate sebacate, in particular as sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the name Isolan GPS; 2-polyglyceryl dipolyhydroxystearate, in particular as sold by COGNIS under the name Dehymuls PGPH

- Diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate especially as sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the name of Isolan PDI; glyceryl laurate, in particular as sold by COGNIS under the name Monomuls 90-L 12;

- polyglyceryl-3 ricinoleate especially as sold by AARHUSKARLSHAMN under the name of Akoline PGPR;

polyglyceryl-5-trioleate especially as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft A-173E;

- polyglyceryl-2 oleate especially as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-17B;

- polyglyceryl-4 oleyl ether in particular as sold by CHIMEX under the name of Chimexane NC; - polyglyceryl-5 trimyristate especially as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name of Sunsoft A-143E;

- 2-polyglyceryl caprylate including as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-81B;

- polyglyceryl-2 laurate especially as sold by TAIYO KAGAKU under the name Sunsoft Q-12D; and

- polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate especially as sold by CRODA under the name Crester PR.

Examples of polysorbates are:

sorbitan tristearate, especially as sold by CRODA under the name Span 65; sorbitan sesquioleate especially as sold by CRODA under the name Arlacel 83 V; sorbitan isostearate especially as sold by CRODA under the name Arlacel 987;

oleate sorbitan especially as sold by CRODA under the name Span 80 V;

sorbitan isostearate especially as sold by CRODA under the name Arlacel 987;

sorbitan stearate especially as sold by COGNIS under the name Dehymuls SMS; and

laurate sorbitan especially as sold by COGNIS under the name Dehymuls SML. Examples of sucrose esters are:

sucrose polystearate especially as sold by SISTERNA under the name Sisterna SPIO-C; and

sucrose distearate, especially as sold by CRODA under the name Crodesta F-10. Other examples of lipophilic surfactants with an HLB of less than or equal to 9 that can be used in the composition of the invention are:

- polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate especially as sold by COGNIS under the name Dehymuls DPGP;

- Stearate glycol in particular as sold by CRODA under the name Cithrol EGMS N / E;

PEG-2 stearate, especially as sold by CRODA under the name Cithrol DEGMS N / E;

methyl glucose isostearate, especially as sold by EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT under the name Isolan IS; sorbitan palmitate especially as sold by CRODA under the name Span 40;

- The mixture of cetearyl glucoside and cetayl alcohol including such as sold by COGNIS under the name Emulgade PL 68150. According to a preferred embodiment, the lipophilic surfactant is polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, in particular as sold by Cognis (BASF) under the name Dehymuls PGPH.

The composition according to the invention may in particular comprise from 2 to 7% by weight, and preferably from 3 to 5% by weight, of lipophilic surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition comprises the mixture of sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate and lauryl glucoside as hydrophilic surfactant and polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate as a lipophilic surfactant. Provided that the required phase inversion properties are not affected, the composition according to the present invention may additionally comprise one or more surfactants having an HLB between 9 and 13.

POLYSACCHARIDE

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise at least one polysaccharide. This polysaccharide may in particular have the effect of providing an increase in the consistency of the emulsion.

As a polysaccharide, mention may in particular be made of scleroglucan gum; xanthan gum and derivatives such as dehydroxanthane; guar gum; tara gum; ghatti gum; starches; the station ; agarose; carrageenans such as iota carrageenan, lambda carrageenan and kappa carrageenan; carob flour; alginates; celluloses and derivatives; hydroxypropylguar; pectins; gellan gum; and their mixtures.

Among the cellulose derivatives mention may be made especially of cellulose esters and / or alkyl ethers such as etylcelluloses, propylcellulose, hydroxyethulcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, cellulose acetate butyrates, and mixtures thereof.

In the context of the present invention, the term "scleroglucan gum" also refers to Sclerotium gum or Sclerotium rolfsii gum. Indeed the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii allows the production of scleroglucan. According to one embodiment, the composition of the present invention may contain mixtures of polysaccharides. These associations include:

- scleroglucan gum and alginate,

- xanthan gum and alginate, and - xanthan gum and guar gum.

Preferably, a xanthan gum is used

The composition according to the invention may in particular comprise from 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight, of polysaccharide relative to the total weight of the composition. Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase comprising water and optionally a water-soluble organic solvent, preferably a polyol.

The water used in the composition of the invention may be demineralized pure water but also mineral water and / or thermal water and / or seawater, that is to say say that the water of the composition may be partly or wholly constituted by a water chosen from mineral waters, thermal waters, sea water and their mixtures. In general, a mineral water is suitable for consumption, which is not always the case of a thermal water. Each of these waters contains, inter alia, solubilized minerals and / or trace elements. These waters are known to be used for purposes of specific treatment according to the particular trace elements and minerals they contain, such as hydration and desensitization of the skin or the treatment of certain dermatoses. By mineral or thermal waters, not only natural mineral or thermal waters will be designated, but also natural mineral or thermal waters enriched with mineral constituents and / or additional trace elements, as well as mineral and / or oligo-containing aqueous solutions. -Elements prepared from purified water (demineralized or distilled).

The amount of water in the composition may range, for example, from 0.5 to 95% by weight, preferably from 1 to 90% by weight, better still from 10 to 80% by weight and even more preferably from 60 to 75% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition. The aqueous phase of the composition of the invention may comprise a water-soluble organic solvent chosen, for example, from lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms and in particular from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, for example ethanol, isopropanol, propanol and butanol; polyols such as glycerine, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8, polypropylene glycols such as dipropylene glycol; and their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the water-soluble organic solvent is a polyol, preferably glycerine. Indeed, glycerin gives a better comfort to the application. Other polyols may be added to the glycerin to the extent that the qualities of the composition are maintained.

The amount of water-soluble organic solvent may range, for example, from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 2 to 10% by weight. at 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fatty phase The composition according to the invention comprises a fatty phase including an oil.

The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises all liposoluble or lipodispersible compounds present in the composition, including fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) or oils (which form the fatty phase), fatty substances. solid at room temperature such as waxes, or pasty compounds, fatty alcohols, fatty acids. As an oil that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made for example of:

hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, jojoba, babassu and sunflower oils; , olive, coconut, brazil nut, marula, corn, soy, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia nut, argan , coriander, castor, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those marketed by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, shea butter oil;

esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas RiCOOR ₂ and RiOR ₂ in which R 1 represents the residue of a fatty acid or of a fatty alcohol containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example purcellin oil, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2 erucate, dodecyl, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates and decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate;

linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as volatile or nonvolatile liquid paraffins, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane or hydrogenated polyisobutene;

volatile or non-volatile silicone oils with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular volatile silicone oils, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; and

- their mixtures.

The following oils may also be mentioned:

the esters resulting from the reaction of at least one fatty acid comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 26 carbon atoms and better still from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, more preferably from 6 to 16 carbon atoms; and at least one alcohol comprising from 1 to 17 carbon atoms and more preferably from 3 to 15 carbon atoms; mention may be made in particular of isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, neopentanoate, and the like. isostearyl, isononyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, esters of lactic acid and fatty alcohols comprising 12 or 13 carbon atoms, dicaprylyl carbonate such as that marketed under the name CETIOL CC by the company COGNIS;

fatty acid ethers comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE from Cognis); and glycerol ethers comprising from 6 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glycerol 2-ethylhexyl ether (INCI name: ethylhexylglycerin) such as Sensiva SC 50 from Schulke & Mayr GmbH.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises an oil chosen from vegetable oils, hydrocarbons, esters, and mixtures thereof. The composition according to the invention may in particular comprise from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight, of oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

admixtures

The composition of the invention may, in addition, contain usual adjuvants, such as antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, absorbent fillers, fillers, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents. The nature of the adjuvants and their amounts must be such that they do not modify the properties of the composition according to the invention. The amounts of these adjuvants are those conventionally used in the cosmetics field and, for example, from 0.001 to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

As active agents that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of soothing agents such as bisabolol; floral waters such as linden water or cornflower water; glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts; antibacterials such as octopirox, triclosan and triclocarban; essential oils ; vitamins such as for example retinol (vitamin A), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), niacinamide (vitamin PP or B3), panthenol (vitamin B5) and their derivatives such as for example the esters of these vitamins ( palmitate, acetate, propionate), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, glycosylated vitamin C or glucopyranosyl ascorbic acid (Ascorbyl glucoside); coenzymes such as coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone and coenzyme R or biotin; protein hydrolysates; plant extracts and in particular plankton extracts; and their mixtures. Of course, one skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additive (s) to be added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the proposed addition.

The invention will be described in more detail with the aid of the following examples which are given for purely illustrative and non-limiting purposes.

Example 1 Composition according to the invention

A reversible oil-in-water emulsion according to the invention having the following composition was prepared:

INCI Name Chemical Name Function Percentage by weight based on the total weight of the composition

Water Water Solvent 68.65

Active 1 9.0

Dicaprylyl Carbonic Acid, Emollient 8.996625 Carbonate Dicaprilylyl Ester

a-tocopherol 3,4-Dihydro-2,5,7,8- Active 0,0375

tetramethyl-2-

(4,8,12-trimethyltridecyl) -2H-benzopyran-6-ol; alphatocopherol;

Vitamin E

Emollient 1 6.0

Caprylic / Capric Glycerol tri C8-C10 Emollient 6.00 triglyceride

Humectant 1 5.0

Glycerin Glycerol Humectant 4.975 Water Water Solvent 0.025

Surfactant 1 4.0

Polyglyceryl-2- Polyglycerin poly-Tensioactive 4 dipoly 12-hydroxystearic

hydroxystearate acid ester

Emollient 2 2.0

Oleyl erucate (Z) -octadec-9-enyl Emollient 1,998

(Z) -doco s - 13-nova ate

a-tocopherol 3,4-Dihydro-2,5,7,8-Active 0,0013 tetramethyl-2-

(4,8,12-trimethyltridecyl) -2H-benzopyran-6-ol; alphatocopherol;

Vitamin E

Glycine Soy Oil Emollient 0.0007

Surfactant 2 1.5

Water Water Solvent 0.9225

Sodium lauryl D-glucopyranose, surfactant 0.3 glucose carboxylate oligomeric, C10-C16

glycosides,

carboxymethyl

ethers, sodium salts

Lauryl glucoside Alkyl polyglucoside Surfactant 0,225

C10-16

Sodium citrate Trisodium citrate Surfactant 0.045

Sorbic acid Hexa-2,4-dienoic Surfactant 0,001 acid

Active 2 1.0

Glycerin Glycerol 0.6 Water Water 0.365

0.03 flower extract

Calendula

officinalis

Potassium sorbate Potassium (E, E) - 0.004 hexa-2,4-dienoate

Sorbic acid Hexa-2,4-dienoic 0,001 acid

Conservative 0.65

Phenoxyethanol 2-Phenoxyethanol Preservative 0.65

Stabilizer with 0.6 viscosity 1

Sodium polyacrylate 2-propenoic acid, 0.528 homopolymer,

sodium knows where

Acrylic acid

homopolymer,

sodium knows

Water Water 0.072

Perfume 0.5

Limonene 0.000015

Moisturizing agent 1 0.5

Tocopheryl acetate 3,4-Dihydro-2,5,7,8- 0,5

tetramethyl-2-

(4,8,12- trimethyltridecyl)

2H-benzopyran-6-yl

acetate

Absorbent 0.2

Nylon 6/12 Copolyamide 0.2

Moisturizing agent 2 0.2

1,2-hexanediol DL hexane-1,2-diol 0,1 Caprylyl glycol Octane-1,2-diol 0,1

Active 3 ο, ι

Allantoin Urea, (2,5-dioxo-4- 0,1

imidazolidinyl) or 5-ureidohydantoin; glyoxylic

acid diuride

0.1 Stabilizer

viscosity 2

Xanthan gum Gummi xanthanum 0.09

Water Water 0.01

Example 2 Evaluation of the Efficacy of the Composition According to Example 1 for Treating Erythemas

The evaluation study was conducted on 20 volunteers, over 18 years old, of Fitzpatrick's phototype II or III. These volunteers had not been exposed to the sun for two weeks prior to the study. The untanned skin of these volunteers was therefore likely to exhibit solar erythema after irradiation. The volunteers agreed not to expose themselves to the sun for the duration of the study.

The purpose of this study is to evaluate the soothing and restorative efficacy of the product and to collect any adverse reactions of the product according to Example 1.

The soothing efficacy of the product of Example 1 was also evaluated by measures of the intensity of the erythema, the restorative efficiency of the product of Example 1 by measures of water-insensitive loss before and after irradiation, as well as the effect of the product of Example 1 on the level of cutaneous hydration after irradiation. The product of Example 1 was applied three times a day. At the beginning of the study (JOtOh), a standardized application is made in the laboratory, after UV irradiations and / or experimental measurements. Two other daily applications are carried out at home, by the volunteers themselves. From the 2nd day (Day 2 or Day 48h) to the 6th day (Day 6), the three daily applications are carried out by the volunteers.

The course of the study was as follows:

The day before the start of the study (J-1): The volunteers come to the laboratory without having applied any product on the forearms and the back since the previous evening (except morning cleansing).

Acclimatization of volunteers for about 15 minutes under controlled conditions in the waiting room, with the back free.

Definition of an area at the level of the back for determination of Minimal Erythemal Dose (DEM). Minimal Erythemal Dose (DEM) is the smallest dose of Ultra Violet (UV) radiation that produces the first perceptible erythema that occurs over most of the UV exposure site within 16 to 24 hours after exposure.

The system used to determine Minimal Erythemal Dose (DEM) is as follows: The UV flux of each optical fiber is set by the technician to achieve a geometric progression of 15% of each exposure. As the system is used with a constant flow, all the fibers are open at the same time.

UV source for UVB exposures: Xenon Solar Light Monoport type 1000W High Power Solar Simulator - Model LS1000, Spectrum: UVA (A + B): 290 to 400 nm

Exposure area: defined irradiation zones of 4 x 4 cm maximum.

Start of the study (JOtOh):

The volunteers come to the laboratory without having applied any product on the forearms and the back since the evening before (except the morning toilet). Acclimatization of volunteers for about 15 minutes under controlled conditions in the waiting room, forearms and back cleared.

Definition of three measurement zones at the forearm level: an irradiated zone treated with the studied product (IRT),

- an irradiated and untreated zone (IRNT),

- a non-irradiated and untreated zone (NIRNT).

Skin Color Measurements Skin color measurements were performed using the CM700-d type MINOLTA Spectrocolorimeter® with an 8 mm diameter head on the three previously defined zones.

The Spectrocolorimeter® converts colors in the human perception range into a numerical code consisting of three parameters: L *: represents lightness (from dark to pale), a *: represents the range from green to red, b *: represents the range of blue to yellow. a * and b * are chrominance parameters and L * a luminance parameter.

It then becomes possible to express, in great detail, the differences between two skin areas that appear to be of the same color. After calibration, the measurements are made directly on the skin using a pulsed Xenon light source and a dual beam system to measure the light emitted and correct any slight deviation.

In evaluating a soothing effect on erythema, the parameter a * is of primary importance.

Insensible Water Loss Measurements

Water Insensitive Loss (PIE) measurements are performed using the Tewameter® TM 300 (COURAGE & KHAZAKA) on the three previously defined zones.

The cutaneous barrier plays a regulating role in the water balance of the skin. When this is damaged, it appears disturbances in the regulation of water exchanges. The water then migrates more easily towards the outside environment which increases the Insensitive Loss in Water (PIE). On the other hand, if the state of the cutaneous barrier improves, the values of the water loss will decrease because the regulation of the exchanges of water will be ensured in a correct way.

The water loss is calculated by evaporation by determining the pressure gradient of the layer of water vapor that surrounds the skin. This technique makes it possible to evaluate more particularly the barrier effect of the stratum corneum and the hydrolipidic film.

The Tewameter® measures water-insensitive loss thanks to a sensor consisting of two sensors traversed by a stream of water vapor. A partial pressure difference measurement is performed between the two sensors. This value corresponds to the rate of evaporation of a volatile substance (in this case, water). In the case of an erythema, the UV irradiation tends to cause a destructuration of the cutaneous barrier resulting in an increase of the PIE.

Measurements of the rate of cutaneous hydration

Measurements of the cutaneous hydration rate are carried out using the CM 825 Cornéomètre® (COURAGE & KHAZAKA) on the three previously defined zones. The measuring device is used to determine the degree of humidity of the outermost skin layers of the stratum corneum. The action principle of the Cornéomètre® is based on the possibility for the detector, designed as a capacitor, to modify its capacity. The face of the measuring head, in contact with the skin, modifies its capacity according to the degree of humidity of the skin. These changes are directly transcribed on computer. An increase in the measured values indicates an improvement in the level of skin hydration.

Irradiation of the two selected areas (IRT and IRNT) at 2 DEM. Application of the product of Example 1 to the IRT zone.

Between the beginning of the study (JOtOh) and the second day of the study (J0t24h), volunteers apply the product to their home twice a day.

1st day after the start of the study (J0t24h):

The volunteers come to the laboratory without having applied any product on the forearms since the last visit (except the morning toilet) and except for the two applications Daily product study in the IRT zone (the last application of the product should be from the previous evening).

Acclimatization of volunteers for about 15 minutes in the controlled conditions of the waiting room, forearms cleared. Measurements of the skin color using the Spectrocolorimeter® on the three zones defined in JOtOh (IRT, IRNT and NIRNT).

Measurements of the Water Insensitive Loss using the Tewameter® on the three zones defined in JOtOh (IRT, IRNT and NIRNT).

Measurements of the cutaneous hydration rate using the Cornéomètre® on the three zones defined in JOtOh (IRT, IRNT and NIRNT).

Application of the product of Example 1 to the IRT zone.

Between Day 24h and Day 32h (32h after the start of the study), the volunteers apply the product once again to their home once a day.

J0t32h: Volunteers come to the laboratory without applying any forearm product since the last visit (except morning cleansing) and except for application of the study product to the IRT area at the forearm level.

Standardized application of the product by the technician in charge of the study on the IRT zone. 2nd day after the start of the study (J0t48h)

The volunteers come to the laboratory without having applied any product on the forearms since the last visit (except the morning toilet).

Acclimatization of volunteers for about 15 minutes in the controlled conditions of the waiting room, forearms cleared.

Measurements of the skin color using the Spectrocolorimeter® on the three zones defined in JOtOh (IRT, IRNT and NIRNT).

Measurements of the Water Insensitive Loss using the Tewameter® on the three zones defined in JOtOh (IRT, IRNT and NIRNT). Measurements of the cutaneous hydration rate using the Cornéomètre® on the three zones defined in JOtOh (IRT, IRNT and NIRNT).

The 7th day after the beginning of the study (J7):

The last application of the product dates from the previous evening.

The volunteers come to the laboratory without having applied any product on the forearms since the evening before (except the morning toilet).

Measurements of the rate of cutaneous hydration (Cornéomètre®)

The results of the study are as follows:

Parameter a *

Under the conditions of this study, in comparison with an irradiated untreated zone, the product according to Example 1 induced a significant decrease in the actinic erythema of the first irradiation of J0, characterized by a significant decrease in the parameter a * of J0t32h and J0t48h.

Therefore, the product according to Example 1 has a soothing effect up to about 48h. PIE parameter Under the conditions of this study, in comparison with an irradiated untreated zone, the product according to Example 1 induced a significant decrease in the PIE of 13% on average at Day 48h.

Therefore, the product according to Example 1 maintains the integrity of the cutaneous barrier at day 24h and day 32h and has a nourishing effect at day 48h. Moisturizing the skin

Under the conditions of this study, in comparison with an irradiated untreated zone, the product according to Example 1 induced a moisturizing effect characterized by a significant increase in the level of skin hydration of 25% at day 24, 31% at day 32 and 23% at Day48. Therefore, the product of Example 1 has a moisturizing effect up to about 48h.

In the experimental conditions selected, after 7 days of use three times a day, the product according to Example 1 was appreciated by the majority of volunteers for its characteristics and for its effectiveness. 100% of the volunteers answered that the product soothes and repairs the sunburn. Example 3 Sensory Evaluation of the Composition According to Example 1 on Healthy Skin

60 women evaluated the product according to Example 1 after application to the forearms and the half-legs. This assessment shows that the product spreads easily (90% of users), which penetrates quickly (96% of users). 80% of users "agree" or "strongly agree" that the product does not leave a sticky effect and only 8% report that it leaves a greasy feeling to the touch.

EXAMPLE 4 Evaluation of the Long-Lasting Moisturizing Effect of the Composition According to Example 1 on Persons with Very Dry Skin The evaluation study was conducted on 11 volunteers, over 18 years old, of Fitzpatrick phototype I to IV. These volunteers have dry skin at the level of the legs (cutaneous hydration rate <50 U.A, verified using the Cornéomètre®) The objective of this study is to evaluate the long-lasting moisturizing effect of the product according to Example 1 at two, four, six and eight hours after a single standardized application.

Measurements of the rate of cutaneous hydration

Measurements of the degree of skin hydration are carried out using the CM 825 Cornéomètre® (COURAGE & KHAZAKA) on two defined zones at the level of the legs: a zone treated with the product according to Example 1, an untreated zone serving of witness.

The measuring device is used to determine the degree of humidity of the outermost skin layers of the stratum corneum. The action principle of the Cornéomètre® is based on the possibility for the detector, designed as a capacitor, to modify its capacity. The face of the measuring head, in contact with the skin, modifies its capacity according to the degree of humidity of the skin. These changes are directly transcribed on computer.

An increase in the measured values indicates an improvement in the level of skin hydration.

The volunteers come to the laboratory without having applied any product on the legs since the night before. The test implements the following steps:

- Acclimatization of the volunteers for about 30 minutes under the controlled conditions of the waiting room (ambient temperature 22 ± 2 ° C, relative humidity: between 35% and 55%), legs released.

- Definition of two zones on the legs - Measurement of the cutaneous hydration rate using a Cornéomètre® on the two defined zones.

- Standardized application (2μίΛ: ιη ² ) of the product according to Example 1 on the legs, on the previously defined area. New measurements of the cutaneous hydration rate using a Cornéomètre® on the two defined zones (tO), two hours (t2h), four hours (t4h), six hours (t6h) and eight hours (t8h) are performed.

Moisturizing the skin

Under the conditions of this study, in comparison with an untreated zone, the product according to Example 1 exhibited a significant moisturizing effect of the superficial layers of the epidermis two, four, six and eight hours after its standardized single application: cutaneous hydration rate of 85% at t2h, 70% at t4h, 46% at t6h and 31% at t8h. Therefore, the composition according to Example 1 has a long lasting moisturizing effect.

Claims

1. A reversible oil-in-water emulsion comprising:

(i) allantoin, vitamin E and an extract of Calendula officinalis, and

2. Emulsion according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophilic surfactant has an HLB greater than or equal to 13, preferably the surfactant is selected from fatty acid esters, polysorbates, sucrose esters, and mixtures thereof.

3. Emulsion according to claim 1 or 2, comprising 0.2 to 2% by weight, and preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight, of hydrophilic surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the lipophilic surfactant has an HLB of less than or equal to 9, preferably the surfactant is selected from fatty acid esters, polysorbates, sucrose esters, and their mixtures.

5. Emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the hydrophilic surfactant is a mixture of sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate and lauryl glucoside and the lipophilic surfactant is polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate.

6. Emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 5, comprising 2 to 7% by weight, and preferably 3 to 5% by weight, of lipophilic surfactant, relative to the total weight of the composition.

7. Emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising at least one polysaccharide selected from scleroglucan gum; xanthan gum and its derivatives such as dehydroxanthane; guar gum; tara gum; ghatti gum; starches; the station ; agarose; carrageenans such as iota carrageenan, lambda carrageenan and kappa carrageenan; carob flour; alginates; celluloses and its derivatives; hydroxypropylguar; pectins; gellan gum; and their mixtures; preferably xanthan gum.

8. Emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising from 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight, of polysaccharide relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising a fatty phase including an oil; in particular an oil selected from vegetable oils, hydrocarbons, esters, and mixtures thereof.

10. A cosmetic skin treatment method comprising the application to the skin of an emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 9.

11. Use of an emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 9 for relieving cutaneous dryness, in particular erythema.