WO2018133442A1 - 发色膏组合物及其制备方法和使用方法 - Google Patents

发色膏组合物及其制备方法和使用方法 Download PDF

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WO2018133442A1
WO2018133442A1 PCT/CN2017/103416 CN2017103416W WO2018133442A1 WO 2018133442 A1 WO2018133442 A1 WO 2018133442A1 CN 2017103416 W CN2017103416 W CN 2017103416W WO 2018133442 A1 WO2018133442 A1 WO 2018133442A1
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hair
chromonic
cream composition
composition according
combing
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PCT/CN2017/103416
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English (en)
French (fr)
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麦捷骅
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广州温雅日用化妆品有限公司
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Publication of WO2018133442A1 publication Critical patent/WO2018133442A1/zh

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8152—Homopolymers or copolymers of esters, e.g. (meth)acrylic acid esters; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes

Definitions

  • This invention relates to hair coloring products, and more particularly to a hair coloring cream composition which is amorphous, disposable, and temporarily covers the primary color (e.g., covering white hair), a method of making the same, and a method of using the same.
  • Permanent hair coloring is a chemical reaction to hair dyeing. Although it is safe, some people still have concerns about it. When using permanent hair coloring, the hair color cannot be changed and washed away at any time.
  • the current disposable temporary hair dyes such as colored hair wax
  • Another disposable temporary hair dye includes dyeing spray and solid or liquid stick type: the dye spray contains propellant, it is not environmentally friendly or safe, and there are hidden dangers that cannot be carried on the aircraft, such as poor dyeing and poor safety. Inconvenient operation, inadvertent operation can easily stain the face and neck, causing sputum.
  • the dyeing spray only has a good effect on the surface of the hair, not every hair, and at the same time, the middle and lower hair or the middle part of the hair.
  • none of the above disposable temporary hair dye products can be applied to the whole head or large area hair. Color or a variety of colors at the same time, and it is difficult to completely cover each hair, the stereotype effect is strong, and it is impossible to maintain a smooth hairstyle.
  • a coloring paste composition which is capable of covering the entire hair with a full coverage of the original color while being suitable for full-head or large-area coloring or multiple colors at the same time.
  • covering white hair For example, covering white hair
  • the surfactant-containing shampoo can be conveniently used for color removal according to needs to achieve a temporary one-time coloring effect.
  • a chromonic cream composition comprising water, and a raw material component in the following percentage by weight:
  • the film forming agent is one or more of an acrylate copolymer and a polyurethane-14/acrylic copolymer AMP salt;
  • the pigment is a cosmetic grade coating.
  • the pigment of the invention is a cosmetic grade coating, which refers to a pigment which itself has a pigment, and does not require an oxidized chemical reaction and a pigment which oxidizes and develops color on the hair, such as a belt which can be used in cosmetics such as lipstick, nail polish and eye shadow.
  • the matrix of the pigment According to actual needs, the existing pigmented matrix can be combined to obtain a desired color, and the pigmented substrate can be specifically, for example, mica, aluminum powder, titanium dioxide, calcium borosilicate, and ferric oxide. , tin oxide or other pigmented substrates, and the like.
  • the chromonic cream composition comprises water, and the following percentage by weight of the raw material component:
  • the matrix is 0.1% to 6%.
  • the chromonic cream composition comprises water, and the following percentage by weight of the raw material component:
  • the matrix is 0.1% to 6%.
  • the film former is an acrylic copolymer.
  • the substrate comprises at least one of an emulsifier and a thickener. It will be appreciated that in other embodiments, other auxiliaries that can aid in the formation of the paste can be employed.
  • the thickener is an acrylate/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer, a fatty alcohol emulsifier thickener, an acrylate/stearyl ether. At least one of -20 methacrylate copolymers.
  • the thickening agent is an acrylate/stearyl ether-20 methacrylate copolymer.
  • the emulsifier is a nonionic emulsifier.
  • the emulsifier is at least one of oleyl-5, polysorbate-20, ceteareth-6, lunar polyether-4, and oleic acid. .
  • the emulsifier is polysorbate-20.
  • a humectant is also included in the range of 0.2% to 5% by weight.
  • the humectant is at least one of 1,3-butanediol, propylene glycol, and glycerin. Preferred are glycerin and propylene glycol.
  • the functional additive is further included in a weight percentage of 0.01 to 55%; the functional additive is a solubilizing agent, a plant extract, a hair care nutrient, a protein, a sunscreen, an antioxidant, a pH adjuster, a metal chelate At least one of a mixture, a preservative, and a fragrance.
  • the functional additive comprises a pH adjuster and a cosolvent
  • the pH adjuster is aminomethylpropanol to adjust the pH of the system to 5.5 to 7.5
  • the cosolvent is ethanol.
  • the chromonic cream composition of the present invention may further contain other functional additives as needed: such as adding one or more of plant extracts (such as tea extract), hair care nutrients, and proteins (such as hydrolyzed keratin) to obtain more Excellent hair care effect, the weight percentage is preferably 0.1% to 2%; adding a sunscreen to provide a sunscreen function, such as methoxycinnaylethylhexyl ester, benzophenone-4, preferably 0.1% to 0.5% by weight; Adding resistance
  • the oxidizing agent provides an antioxidant anti-free radical function, such as butylated hydroxytoluene, preferably 0.1% to 0.5% by weight; adding a metal chelating agent to form a relatively stable chelate with the metal ion, so that it does not catalyze an oxidation reaction, such as EDTA
  • the disodium is preferably 0.05 to 0.1% by weight; a preservative is added to provide a preservative function, such as methylparaben and/or prop
  • the chromonic cream composition comprises water, and the following percentage by weight of the raw material component:
  • the film forming agent is an acrylic copolymer
  • the thickener is an acrylate/stearyl ether-20 methacrylate copolymer
  • the emulsifier is polysorbate-20;
  • the humectant is glycerin and propylene glycol
  • the functional additive includes a pH adjuster and a cosolvent, wherein the pH adjuster is aminomethylpropanol, the pH of the conditioning system is 5.5 to 7.5; and the cosolvent is ethanol.
  • the invention also provides a preparation method of the chromonic cream composition, comprising the following steps:
  • the remaining water, as well as the matrix, film former, are added to the dispersion, and then added or not with the humectant or the humectant and functional additive, and stirred.
  • the invention also provides a method of using the chromonic cream composition, comprising the steps of:
  • step (1) repeating or not repeating step (1), covering each hair to be covered with the chromonic cream composition
  • the coloring paste composition is used in an amount of 1 to 10 g.
  • the artificial wind is blown dry while the carding is being performed.
  • the carding is performed in a direction consistent with the direction of the coating described in the step (1).
  • the carding method is combing with a hair dyeing comb
  • the hair dyeing comb comprises a comb body and a comb handle, the comb body is provided with a first tooth portion for upper paste and initial dyeing, the first tooth portion comprises a bottom plate and a plurality of rows of teeth, the plurality of rows of teeth are vertical Provided on the bottom plate, the outer teeth of the plurality of teeth are higher than the inner teeth, forming a groove, and the back side of the first tooth portion is further provided with a second tooth portion for fine combing, the second tooth The portion is a single row of teeth, and the tooth pitch of the plurality of rows of teeth is greater than the tooth pitch of the single row of teeth.
  • the method of combing in step (1) is:
  • the carding method in the step (3) is: combing with the second tooth portion.
  • the method of using the chromonic cream composition comprises the steps of:
  • step (1) repeating or not repeating step (1), covering each hair to be covered with the chromonic cream composition
  • the second tooth portion is combed, and is blown dry with artificial wind while the carding is being performed.
  • the invention adopts a cosmetic-grade paint as a pigment in combination with a specific film-forming agent to prepare a coloring paste composition on the basis of reasonable control of raw materials and weight percentage of each component, wherein a cosmetic grade coating is used as a pigment, and the utility model is utilized.
  • a cosmetic grade coating is used as a pigment, and the utility model is utilized.
  • the color of the hair itself can achieve the coloring of the hair. Compared with the oxidized pigment used in the traditional hair dye, it is not necessary to oxidize and develop color with the hair, and the color can be easily removed according to the need.
  • the acrylics used in total At least one of a polymer, a polyurethane-14/acrylic acid ester copolymer AMP salt, as a film-forming agent can be well bonded with a pigment, and can form a uniform protective film during coloring, so that the pigment can be Uniform and 360° complete coverage of the whole hair, and easy to remove, as long as the surfactant-containing shampoo can destroy the protective film, remove the pigment, restore the original hair color, and achieve a temporary one-time coloring effect.
  • the coloring paste composition can be applied to a full head or a large area.
  • Coloring, and the hair style after use is natural and elegant.
  • an acrylic copolymer is preferably used as a film-forming agent, which is more excellent in avoiding strong setting and coloring effects.
  • the use of the acrylic copolymer can also make the coloring paste composition have better waterproof effect.
  • the present invention has the following beneficial effects:
  • the chromonic cream composition of the present invention uses a cosmetic-grade paint as a pigment in combination with a specific type of film-forming agent on the basis of reasonable control of the raw materials and weight percentage of each component: (1) can be uniform and 360° intact From small to large area, especially the whole head can be applied and covered with the whole hair, and the removal is convenient. As long as the shampoo containing surfactant is used, it can be removed, and the original hair color can be reduced, which can be conveniently carried out according to the needs.
  • Coloring, removing or changing colors, realizing one-time temporary coloring (2) can be used for partial coloring, or it can be used to color hair all over the head or large area, and can be multi-color at the same time, long or short Hair can be used; (3) no strong stereotype effect, the hair style after coloring is natural and smooth, basically the same as before unpainting; (4) using cosmetic grade paint as pigment, the raw material is safe, and can be used by consumers. And there is no hair scale like the traditional hair dye using oxidized pigment to open the surface of the hair, further reducing the damage of color to the hair.
  • humectant by adding a certain proportion of humectant, it is possible to moisturize the hair while coloring, adding specific functional additives, especially pH adjusters and co-solvents, to control the pH of the system, and to promote each raw material group.
  • specific functional additives especially pH adjusters and co-solvents, to control the pH of the system, and to promote each raw material group.
  • the solution is dissolved and dispersed to obtain a better coloring effect.
  • the preparation method of the chromonic cream composition of the invention is simple in operation and convenient for practical production and application.
  • the method for using the coloring paste composition of the present invention is simple, convenient, and practical, and the user can operate in DIY.
  • the artificial hair is blown to disperse the hair, and the hair can be combed into each independently colored hair without sticking together, so that the hair after the coloring is natural and smooth, and can be shortened at the same time.
  • the time required for drying increases the coloring efficiency.
  • combing the first tooth portion and the second tooth portion of the hair dyeing comb combing the first tooth portion and the second tooth portion of the hair dyeing comb, a better coloring effect can be obtained, and the hair style obtained by the carding can be further natural and smooth. .
  • FIG. 1 is a schematic structural view of a hair dye comb according to Embodiment 21;
  • FIG. 2 is a schematic view showing the structure of a first tooth portion of the hair dyeing comb of FIG. 1.
  • chromonic cream composition of the present invention its preparation method and method of use will be further described in detail below in conjunction with specific examples.
  • the above is named INCI Chinese name.
  • the pigments used in the examples of the present invention are cosmetic grade coatings, wherein the pigments of the models Earis 4602, Earis 3310, M6004, Earis 7742, M4102, SM3015 were purchased from Yibai Chemical Co., Ltd.; the pigment of the type T30D was purchased from BASF. Some of the parameters are shown in the following table:
  • the five coloring paste compositions of the present embodiment include the following raw material components:
  • the preparation method of the above coloring paste composition comprises the following steps:
  • the mixture After mixing the remaining water, and the emulsifier and thickener, the mixture is heated and emulsified, then stirred and cooled to obtain an emulsion;
  • the film-forming agent and the dispersion are added to the emulsion and stirred to obtain.
  • the six coloring paste compositions described in this embodiment, in weight percent, include the following raw material components:
  • the above chromonic cream composition is prepared in the same manner as in Examples 1-5.
  • the four coloring paste compositions of this embodiment include the following raw material components:
  • the preparation method of the above coloring paste composition comprises the following steps:
  • the mixture After mixing the remaining water, and the emulsifier and thickener, the mixture is heated and emulsified, then stirred and cooled to obtain an emulsion;
  • the film-forming agent and the dispersion are sequentially added to the emulsion, and then a humectant is added and stirred to obtain.
  • the four coloring paste compositions described in this embodiment, in weight percent, include the following raw material components:
  • the preparation method of the above coloring paste composition comprises the following steps:
  • the mixture After mixing the remaining water, and the emulsifier and thickener, the mixture is heated and emulsified, then stirred and cooled to obtain an emulsion;
  • the film-forming agent and the dispersion are sequentially added to the emulsion, and then a moisturizer and a functional additive are added, and stirred to obtain.
  • a chromonic cream composition according to this embodiment in weight percentage, comprises the following raw material components:
  • This embodiment is a method for using the coloring paste composition according to any one of embodiments 1-20, comprising the following steps:
  • step (1) repeating or not repeating step (1), covering each hair to be covered with the chromonic cream composition
  • the coloring paste composition is used in an amount of 1 to 10 g.
  • the amount of each coating By properly controlling the amount of each coating, the application of the chromonic cream composition can be more uniform.
  • the artificial wind is blown dry while the carding is being performed.
  • the hair can be dispersed, which can make the hair style after the coloring natural and smooth.
  • it can shorten the drying time and improve the coloring efficiency.
  • you need to further accelerate the drying you can use the hair dryer hot air (the general temperature is not low). Dry at 30 ° C). After drying, it can be combed into each independently colored hair, without sticking together, to get a natural smooth effect.
  • the carding is performed in a direction in which the direction of the coating described in the step (1) is uniform.
  • the hair style is natural and smooth.
  • the hair dyeing comb comprises a comb body and a comb handle 10, the comb body being provided with a first tooth portion 20 for upper paste and initial dyeing, the first tooth portion 20 comprising a bottom plate 22 and a plurality of rows of teeth 21
  • the plurality of rows of teeth 21 are vertically disposed on the bottom plate 22, and the outer teeth of the plurality of rows of teeth 21 are greater in height than the inner teeth, forming a groove 221, and the back side of the first tooth portion 20 is further provided with a second tooth portion 30 for fine combing.
  • the second tooth portion 30 is a single row of teeth 31 having a tooth pitch greater than the tooth pitch of the single row of teeth 31.
  • the first tooth portion 20 further includes a dyeing tooth 23 for coloring the hair.
  • step (1) For small-area hair coloring (such as the crotch and hair is very short), apply and comb once according to step (1); for longer hair or large area to full head color, Repeating step (1) as many times as necessary, and observing the condition of hair coloring, covering each hair that needs to be covered with the coloring cream composition;
  • step (1) repeating or not repeating step (1), covering each hair of the hair bundle with the chromonic cream composition
  • the conventional shampoo containing surfactant is used according to the conventional shampooing method.
  • the chromonic cream composition can be removed by washing 1 or 2 times.
  • a comparative chromonic cream composition having a raw material composition and a preparation method similar to that of Example 1 except that the film-forming agent used was a VP/VA copolymer.
  • Test method 20 trained trials (all shoulder length hair) were selected for trial use, and the trial method was performed according to the full head coloring in Example 21; each trial user tried each of Examples 1-20 and The chromonic cream composition described in Comparative Example 1-2 was scored, and the average score of 20 tester scores was taken.
  • the degree of smoothness 1 to 10 points; 1 point - strong stereotype effect, not smooth; 10 points - almost no stereotype effect, very smooth;
  • Coloring effect 1 to 10 points; 1 point - poor, difficult to color; 10 points - very good, evenly colored;
  • Discharge effect 1 ⁇ 10 points; 1 point - surfactant-containing shampoo cleaning, almost no shedding; 10 points - washed with a surfactant-containing shampoo once can be easily removed.

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Abstract

公开了一种发色膏组合物及其制备方法和使用方法。该发色膏组合物，包括水，以及如下重量百分比的原料组分：颜料1％～20％、成膜剂1％～30％、基质0.1～6％；其中，所述成膜剂为丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物、聚氨酯-14/丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物AMP盐中的一种或多种；所述颜料为化妆品级涂料。上述发色膏组合物能够均匀且360°完整的覆盖整根头发，且卸除方便，只要采用含表面活性剂的洗发用品即可卸除，还原原发色，可根据需要方便的进行上色、去除或更换色彩，实现一次性临时上色，具有较优的上色效果，且无强定型效果，上色后的发型自然、顺逸。

Description

发色膏组合物及其制备方法和使用方法 技术领域
本发明涉及头发上色产品，特别是涉及无定型、一次性地临时遮盖原发色(例如遮盖白发)的发色膏组合物及其制备方法和使用方法。
背景技术
随着人们生活水平的提高，人们对外表打扮方面的要求也越来越高，越来越多的人染发，对头发进行美化。在产品选择方面也越来越注重健康和护理方面的功效。
永久性染发是属于有化学反应的染发，尽管是安全的，但部分人对此仍有顾虑，而且使用永久性染发时，头发颜色不能随时随意更换和洗掉。
目前的一次性临时性染发剂，如彩色发泥发蜡，属强定型类，有定型效果过强的特点，使用后头发一般较硬，也仅能涂盖表面的头发(不能每根上色)，不能满足追求头发顺逸的消费者，亦不适用于较长的头发。另外的一次性临时性染发剂包括染色喷雾和固体或液体棒型：染色喷雾含有推进剂，不环保也不安全，有爆炸隐患不能携带上飞机等交通工具，染色上色效果差和安全差，操作也不方便，操作不慎容易使面部和颈部染色，造成尴尬，染色喷雾仅对头发表层有较好的效果，不能每根头发上色，同时，对于中下层头发或头发中段的上色操作不便利，无法保证每根头发的上色和顺逸。固体或液体棒型补染产品的缺点是体积分量小，不易大面积涂抹均匀，仅对每根新生之白发进行涂抹，操作不便捷，且难以360℃覆盖头发，需要使用者花费较多的时间对每根新生之头发的需染色部分(如白发部分)进行局部补染，耗时费神，完全不适用于较长的头发，若以啫喱膏或啫喱水类定型产品为基础，具有较强的定型功能无法顺逸，若增大容量全头补染，无法每根染色，会变成全头头发塑型硬化，若涂抹后强行疏开将有白色粉末(淀粉)附着于头发，也不实用。
因此，上述一次性临时性染发剂产品均不能给全头或大面积的头发进行上 色或同时上多种颜色，且难以对每根头发进行完全的覆盖，定型效果强，无法保持顺逸的发型。
发明内容
基于此，有必要提供一种发色膏组合物，在适用于全头或大面积上色或同时上多种颜色的同时，能够对每根头发进行整根覆盖，具有优异的遮盖原发色(例如遮盖白发)效果，且能够保持发型自然、顺逸，同时可根据需要方便的采用含表面活性剂的洗发水进行颜色的脱除，实现临时一次性上色效果。
一种发色膏组合物，包括水，以及如下重量百分比的原料组分：
颜料    1％～20％
成膜剂  1％～30％
基质    0.1％～6％；其中，
所述成膜剂为丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物、聚氨酯-14/丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物AMP盐中的一种或多种；
所述颜料为化妆品级涂料。
本发明所述颜料为化妆品级涂料，是指本身即带有色素的基质，无需经过氧化的化学反应与头发发生氧化显色的颜料，如可用于如唇膏、指甲油、眼影等化妆品中的带色素的基质。根据实际需要，可将现有的带有色素的基质进行组合以获得所需的色彩，所述带有色素的基质具体可例如云母、铝粉、二氧化钛、硼硅酸钠钙、三氧化二铁、氧化锡或其它带有色素的基质等等。
在其中一个实施例中，所述的发色膏组合物，包括水，以及如下重量百分比的原料组分：
颜料    3％～18％
成膜剂  5％～25％
基质    0.1％～6％。
在其中一个实施例中，所述的发色膏组合物，包括水，以及如下重量百分比的原料组分：
颜料    5％～15％
成膜剂  15％～25％
基质    0.1％～6％。
在其中一个实施例中，所述成膜剂为丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物。
在其中一个实施例中，所述基质包括乳化剂、增稠剂中的至少一种。可理解，在其它实施例中，也可采用其它能够助以形成膏体的助剂。
在其中一个实施例中，所述增稠剂为丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、脂肪醇类乳化增稠剂、丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物中的至少一种。
在其中一个实施例中，所述增稠剂为丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物。
在其中一个实施例中，所述乳化剂为非离子型乳化剂。
在其中一个实施例中，所述乳化剂为油醇聚醚-5、聚山梨醇酯-20、鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-6、月季醇聚醚-4、油酸中的至少一种。
在其中一个实施例中，所述乳化剂为聚山梨醇酯-20。
在其中一个实施例中，还包括重量百分比为0.2％～5％的保湿剂。
在其中一个实施例中，所述保湿剂为1，3-丁二醇、丙二醇、甘油中的至少一种。优选为甘油和丙二醇。
在其中一个实施例中，还包括重量百分比为0.01～55％的功能添加剂；所述功能添加剂为助溶剂、植物提取物、护发营养素、蛋白、防晒剂、抗氧化剂、pH调节剂、金属螯合剂、防腐剂、香精中的至少一种。
在其中一个实施例中，所述功能添加剂包括pH调节剂和助溶剂；所述pH调节剂为氨甲基丙醇，以调节体系pH为5.5～7.5；所述助溶剂为乙醇。
根据需要，本发明的发色膏组合物还可加入其它功能添加剂：如加入植物提取物(如茶叶提取物)、护发营养素、蛋白(如水解角蛋白)中的一种或多种获得更优的护发功效，重量百分比优选为0.1％～2％；加入防晒剂以提供防晒功能，如甲氧基肉桂基乙基己酯、苯酮-4，重量百分比优选为0.1％～0.5％；加入抗 氧化剂以提供抗氧化防自由基功能，如丁羟甲苯，重量百分比优选为0.1％～0.5％；加入金属螯合剂与金属离子形成较稳定的螯合物，使其不会催化氧化反应，如EDTA二钠，重量百分比优选为0.05～0.1％；加入防腐剂以提供防腐功能，如羟苯甲酯和/或羟苯丙酯，重量百分比优选为0.01～0.3％。
在其中一个实施例中，所述的发色膏组合物，包括水，以及如下重量百分比的原料组分：
Figure PCTCN2017103416-appb-000001
所述成膜剂为丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物；
所述增稠剂为丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物；
所述乳化剂为聚山梨醇酯-20；
所述保湿剂为甘油和丙二醇；
所述功能添加剂包括pH调节剂和助溶剂，其中，所述pH调节剂为氨甲基丙醇，调节体系pH为5.5～7.5；所述助溶剂为乙醇。
本发明还提供所述的发色膏组合物的制备方法，包括如下步骤：
于所述颜料中加入适量的水进行分散，得分散液；
将剩余的水，以及所述基质、成膜剂加入至所述分散液中，然后再加入或不加入所述保湿剂或所述保湿剂和功能添加剂，搅拌，即得。
本发明还提供所述的发色膏组合物的使用方法，包括如下步骤：
(1)取所述发色膏组合物涂覆于头发上，梳理；
(2)重复或不重复步骤(1)，将所需遮盖的每根头发以所述发色膏组合物遮盖；
(3)梳理至头发干燥后，即可。
在其中一个实施例中，步骤(1)中，所述发色膏组合物的用量为1～10g。
在其中一个实施例中，步骤(3)中，在所述梳理的同时，用人造风吹干。
在其中一个实施例中，步骤(3)中，所述干燥后，再沿与步骤(1)所述涂覆的方向一致的方向进行梳理。
在其中一个实施例中，步骤(1)和/或步骤(3)中，所述梳理的方法为采用染发梳进行梳理；
所述染发梳，包括梳体和梳柄，所述梳体设有用于上膏和初染的第一齿部，所述第一齿部包括有底板和多排齿，所述多排齿垂直设于所述底板，所述多排齿的外周齿高度大于内部齿，形成凹槽，所述第一齿部的背侧还设有用于精细梳染的第二齿部，所述第二齿部为单排齿，所述多排齿的齿间距大于所述单排齿的齿间距。
在其中一个实施例中，步骤(1)中所述梳理的方法为：
取所述发色膏组合物于所述凹槽，梳理涂覆于头发上；然后先采用所述第一齿部梳理，再采用所述第二齿部梳理；
步骤(3)中所述梳理的方法为：采用所述第二齿部梳理。
在其中一个实施例中，所述发色膏组合物的使用方法，包括如下步骤：
(1)取1～10g所述发色膏组合物于所述凹槽，涂覆于头发上；然后先采用所述第一齿部梳理，再采用所述第二齿部梳理；
(2)重复或不重复步骤(1)，将所需遮盖的每根头发以所述发色膏组合物遮盖；
(3)采用所述第二齿部梳理，并在所述梳理的同时，用人造风吹干。
本发明的原理及优点如下：
本发明在合理控制各组分原料及重量百分比的基础上，创新性采用化妆品级涂料作为颜料与特定的成膜剂相配合制备发色膏组合物，其中，采用化妆品级涂料作为颜料，利用其本身的色彩，实现头发的上色，与传统染发剂中采用的氧化颜料相比，无需与头发进行氧化显色，可根据需要方便的实现颜色的脱除。与此同时，为了保证颜料对原发色的遮盖效果，采用的丙烯酸(酯)类共 聚物、聚氨酯-14/丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物AMP盐中的至少一种作为成膜剂，其与颜料之间可良好结合，并在上色时能够形成均匀的保护膜，使颜料可均匀且360°完整的覆盖整根头发，且卸除方便，只要采用含表面活性剂的洗发用品即可破坏该保护膜，卸去颜料，还原原发色，实现临时一次性上色效果。
另外，通过采用上述成膜剂，并合理控制该发色膏组合物中各原料组分的重量占比，能够避免强定型效果，使该发色膏组合物能够适用于全头或大面积的上色，且使用后的发型自然、飘逸。其中，优选采用丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物作为成膜剂，具有更优的避免强定型和上色效果。另外，采用丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物还可使该发色膏组合物具有较佳的防水效果，当使用者处于炎热或室外阴雨环境时，颜料不易因为出汗或潮湿、下雨环境而脱落。
与现有技术相比，本发明具有以下有益效果：
本发明所述的发色膏组合物，在合理控制各组分原料及重量百分比的基础上，采用化妆品级涂料作为颜料与特定种类的成膜剂相配合：(1)能够均匀且360°完整的由小到大面积，特别是可全头涂抹并覆盖整根头发，且卸除方便，只要采用含表面活性剂的洗发用品即可卸除，还原原发色，可根据需要方便的进行上色、去除或更换色彩，真正实现一次性临时上色；(2)可进行局部上色，也可以全头或大面积的对头发进行上色，并可同时上多种颜色，长或短头发均可使用；(3)无强定型效果，上色后的发型自然、顺逸，与未上色前基本一样；(4)采用化妆品级涂料作为颜料，原料安全，可让消费人群放心使用，且并没有像采用氧化颜料的传统染发剂一样打开头发表层的毛鳞片，进一步减少了上色对头发的伤害。进一步地，通过加入一定比例的保湿剂，能够在上色的同时对头发进行保湿护理，添加特定的功能添加剂，尤其是pH调节剂和助溶剂，能够对体系pH进行控制，并促进各原料组分的溶解分散，从而获得更优的上色效果。
本发明所述的发色膏组合物的制备方法，操作简单，便于实际生产应用。
本发明所述的发色膏组合物的使用方法，操作简单、方便、实用，使用者可DIY操作。
进一步地，在梳理干燥时，配合人造风吹，对头发进行分散，可将头发梳理开为每根独立着色的头发，没有粘连在一起，使上色后的发型自然、顺逸，同时可以缩短干燥所需时间，提高上色效率。更进一步地，配合特定的染发梳进行使用，结合该染发梳的第一齿部和第二齿部进行梳理，能够获得较佳的上色效果，且可以进一步使梳理获得的发型自然、顺逸。
附图说明
图1为实施例21中所述染发梳的结构示意图；
图2为图1所述染发梳的第一齿部的结构示意图。
具体实施方式
以下结合具体实施例对本发明的发色膏组合物及其制备方法和使用方法作进一步详细的说明。
本发明实施例中采用的成膜剂丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物、聚氨酯-14/丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物AMP盐；增稠剂丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、脂肪醇类乳化增稠剂、丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物均为市售产品。以上命名为INCI中文名。
本发明实施例中采用的颜料均为化妆品级涂料，其中，型号为Earis4602、Earis3310、M6004、Earis7422、M4102、SM3015的颜料购自亦柏化工有限公司；型号为T30D的颜料购自BASF。部分参数如下表所示：
Figure PCTCN2017103416-appb-000002
Figure PCTCN2017103416-appb-000003
实施例1-5
本实施例五种发色膏组合物，以重量百分比计，包括如下原料组分：
Figure PCTCN2017103416-appb-000004
上述发色膏组合物的制备方法，包括如下步骤：
于所述颜料中加入适量的水进行分散，得分散液；
将剩余的水，以及所述乳化剂、增稠剂混合后，先加热乳化再搅拌降温，得乳化液；
将所述成膜剂和所述分散液加入至所述乳化液中，搅拌，即得。
实施例6-11
本实施例所述六种发色膏组合物，以重量百分比计，包括如下原料组分：
Figure PCTCN2017103416-appb-000005
Figure PCTCN2017103416-appb-000006
上述发色膏组合物的制备方法同实施例1-5。
实施例12-15
本实施例四种发色膏组合物，以重量百分比计，包括如下原料组分：
Figure PCTCN2017103416-appb-000007
上述发色膏组合物的制备方法，包括如下步骤：
于所述颜料中加入适量的水进行分散，得分散液；
将剩余的水，以及所述乳化剂、增稠剂混合后，先加热乳化再搅拌降温，得乳化液；
将所述成膜剂、所述分散液依次加入至所述乳化液中，然后再加入保湿剂，搅拌，即得。
实施例16-19
本实施例所述四种发色膏组合物，以重量百分比计，包括如下原料组分：
Figure PCTCN2017103416-appb-000008
Figure PCTCN2017103416-appb-000009
上述发色膏组合物的制备方法包括如下步骤：
于所述颜料中加入适量的水进行分散，得分散液；
将剩余的水，以及所述乳化剂、增稠剂混合后，先加热乳化再搅拌降温，得乳化液；
将所述成膜剂、所述分散液依次加入至所述乳化液中，然后再加入保湿剂和功能添加剂，搅拌，即得。
实施例20
本实施例所述一种发色膏组合物，以重量百分比计，包括如下原料组分：
Figure PCTCN2017103416-appb-000010
上述发色膏组合物的制备方类似实施例16-19。
实施例21
本实施例为实施例1-20任一所述发色膏组合物的使用方法，包括如下步骤：
(1)取所述发色膏组合物涂覆于头发上，梳理；
(2)重复或不重复步骤(1)，将所需遮盖的每根头发以所述发色膏组合物遮盖；
(3)梳理至头发干燥后，即可。
具体地，步骤(1)中，所述发色膏组合物的用量为1～10g。合理控制每次涂覆的量，可使发色膏组合物的涂覆更为均匀。
具体地，步骤(3)中，在所述梳理的同时，用人造风吹干。配合风吹，对头发进行分散，能够使上色后的发型自然、顺逸，同时可以缩短干燥所需时间，提高上色效率，如需进一步加快干燥，可使用电吹风热风(一般温度不低于30℃)加热吹干。吹干后可梳理开为每根独立着色的头发，没有粘连在一起，得到自然顺逸的效果。
具体地，步骤(3)中，所述干燥后，再沿与步骤(1)所述涂覆的方向一致的方向进行梳理。以使头发分散，发型自然、顺逸。
进一步地，在上述使用方法中，可结合特定的染发梳进行梳理，以获得更优的上色效果，并使发型更为自然。该染发梳如图1和2所示，包括梳体和梳柄10，梳体设有用于上膏和初染的第一齿部20，第一齿部20包括有底板22和多排齿21，多排齿21垂直设于底板22，多排齿21的外周齿高度大于内部齿，形成凹槽221，第一齿部20的背侧还设有用于精细梳染的第二齿部30，第二齿部30为单排齿31，多排齿21的齿间距大于单排齿31的齿间距。在本实施例中，第一齿部20还包括染鬓齿23，用于给鬓发上色。
具体地，在进行较长头发、全头、大面积或小面积头发上色时，上述使用方法的步骤如下：
(1)取1～10g所述发色膏组合物于多排齿21的内部齿，即凹槽21处，并涂覆于头发上；然后先采用第一齿部20向同一方向梳理3～5下，再采用第二齿 部30向同一方向梳理3～5下后，沿不同方向梳理3～5下；
(2)针对小面积头发上色(例如鬓部和头发很短之处)时，根据步骤(1)涂覆和梳理一次即可；针对较长头发或大面积至全头上色时，可根据需要重复多次步骤(1)，并观察头发上色的情况，将所需遮盖的每根头发以所述发色膏组合物遮盖；
(3)在等待所述发色膏组合物干燥的过程中，用第二齿部30反复梳理已经涂抹了所述发色膏组合物的头发，并在梳理的同时，用人造风吹，直至完全干透；然后再使用第二齿部30将头发沿与步骤(1)涂覆所述发色膏组合物的方向一直的方向梳1～2次，直至每根头发都梳理开，每根独立着色的头发，没有粘连在一起，可得到自然顺逸的效果。
在进行同时上多种颜色时，上述使用方法的步骤如下：
(1)取1～10g所述发色膏组合物于多排齿21的内部齿，即凹槽21处，挑出需要上色的发束，用多排齿21将所述发色膏组合物涂覆于发束上；然后先采用第一齿部20向同一方向梳理3～5下，再采用第二齿部30向同一方向梳理3～5下后，沿不同方向梳理3～5下；
(2)重复或不重复步骤(1)，将发束的每根头发以所述发色膏组合物遮盖；
(3)在等待所述发色膏组合物干燥的过程中，用第二齿部30反复梳理已经涂抹了所述发色膏组合物的发束，并在梳理的同时，用人造风吹，直至完全干透；然后再使用第二齿部30将发束沿与步骤(1)所述涂覆的方向一致的方向进行梳理1～2次，直至发束中每根头发都梳理开，每根独立着色的头发，没有粘连在一起，可得到自然顺逸的效果；
(4)再挑出需要上其它颜色的发束，重复步骤(1)-(3)，直至上完所选的各种颜色的发色膏组合物。
通过上述使用方法完成上色后，使用者在需要更换发色或还原原发色时(如上色后的几个小时或几天)，采用常规含表面活性剂的洗发水按照常规洗发的方法清洗1～2次，即可将所述发色膏组合物卸除。
对比例1
本对比例一种发色膏组合物，其原料组分和制备方法类似实施例1，区别在于：采用的成膜剂为VP/VA共聚物。
对实施例和对比例的发色膏组合物的效果测试：
测试方法：选取20名经过培训的试用者(均为齐肩中长发)进行试用，试用方法按照实施例21中的全头上色进行；每一位试用者分别试用实施例1-20以及对比例1-2所述的发色膏组合物并评分，结果取20名试用者评分的平均分。
顺逸程度：1～10分；1分——定型效果强，不顺逸；10分——几乎无定型效果，非常顺逸；
上色效果：1～10分；1分——差，难以上色；10分——很好，均匀上色；
卸除效果：1～10分；1分——含表面活性剂的洗发水清洗，几乎无脱落；10分——采用含表面活性剂的洗发水清洗1次即可轻易卸除。
测试结果如下表所示。
  顺逸程度 上色效果 卸除效果
实施例1 9 9 9
实施例2 8 8 8
实施例3 8 7 8
实施例4 7 8 7
实施例5 8 6 8
实施例6 8 7 7
实施例7 8 7 7
实施例8 8 7 6
实施例9 9 8 9
实施例10 7 7 8
实施例11 9 9 9
实施例12 9 9 9
实施例13 9 9 9
实施例14 9 9 9
实施例15 9 9 9
实施例16 8 6 6
实施例17 6 8 8
实施例18 8 7 7
实施例19 8 7 7
实施例20 10 10 10
对比例1 3 2 3
以上所述实施例的各技术特征可以进行任意的组合，为使描述简洁，未对上述实施例中的各个技术特征所有可能的组合都进行描述，然而，只要这些技术特征的组合不存在矛盾，都应当认为是本说明书记载的范围。
以上所述实施例仅表达了本发明的几种实施方式，其描述较为具体和详细，但并不能因此而理解为对发明专利范围的限制。应当指出的是，对于本领域的普通技术人员来说，在不脱离本发明构思的前提下，还可以做出若干变形和改进，这些都属于本发明的保护范围。因此，本发明专利的保护范围应以所附权利要求为准。

Claims (21)

  1. 一种发色膏组合物，其特征在于，包括水，以及如下重量百分比的原料组分：
    颜料          1％～20％
    成膜剂        1％～30％
    基质          0.1％～6％；其中，
    所述成膜剂为丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物、聚氨酯-14/丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物AMP盐中的至少一种；
    所述颜料为化妆品级涂料。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的发色膏组合物，其特征在于，包括水，以及如下重量百分比的原料组分：
    颜料          3％～18％
    成膜剂        5％～25％
    基质          0.1％～6％。
  3. 根据权利要求2所述的发色膏组合物，其特征在于，包括水，以及如下重量百分比的原料组分：
    颜料          5％～15％
    成膜剂        15％～25％
    基质          0.1％～6％。
  4. 根据权利要求1所述的发色膏组合物，其特征在于，所述成膜剂为丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物。
  5. 根据权利要求1所述的发色膏组合物，其特征在于，所述基质包括乳化剂、增稠剂中的至少一种。
  6. 根据权利要求5所述的发色膏组合物，其特征在于，所述增稠剂为丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、脂肪醇类乳化增稠剂、丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物中的至少一种。
  7. 根据权利要求6所述的发色膏组合物，其特征在于，所述增稠剂为丙烯 酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物。
  8. 根据权利要求5所述的发色膏组合物，其特征在于，所述乳化剂为油醇聚醚-5、聚山梨醇酯-20、鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-6、月季醇聚醚-4、油酸中的至少一种。
  9. 根据权利要求8所述的发色膏组合物，其特征在于，所述乳化剂为聚山梨醇酯-20。
  10. 根据权利要求1所述的发色膏组合物，其特征在于，还包括重量百分比为0.2％～5％的保湿剂。
  11. 根据权利要求10所述的发色膏组合物，其特征在于，所述保湿剂为1，3-丁二醇、丙二醇、甘油中的至少一种。
  12. 根据权利要求1-11任一项所述的发色膏组合物，其特征在于，还包括重量百分比为0.01～55％的功能添加剂；所述功能添加剂为助溶剂、植物提取物、护发营养素、蛋白、防晒剂、抗氧化剂、pH调节剂、金属螯合剂、防腐剂、香精中的至少一种。
  13. 根据权利要求12所述的发色膏组合物，其特征在于，所述功能添加剂包括pH调节剂和助溶剂；所述pH调节剂为氨甲基丙醇；所述助溶剂为乙醇。
  14. 根据权利要求13所述的发色膏组合物，其特征在于，包括水，以及如下重量百分比的原料组分：
    Figure PCTCN2017103416-appb-100001
    所述成膜剂为丙烯酸(酯)类共聚物；
    所述增稠剂为丙烯酸(酯)类/硬脂醇聚醚-20甲基丙烯酸酯共聚物；
    所述乳化剂为聚山梨醇酯-20；
    所述保湿剂为甘油和丙二醇；
    所述功能添加剂包括pH调节剂和助溶剂，其中，所述pH调节剂为氨甲基丙醇，调节体系pH为5.5～7.5；所述助溶剂为乙醇。
  15. 权利要求1-14任一项所述的发色膏组合物的制备方法，其特征在于，包括如下步骤：
    于所述颜料中加入适量的水进行分散，得分散液；
    将剩余的水，以及所述基质、成膜剂加入至所述分散液中，然后再加入或不加入所述保湿剂或所述保湿剂和功能添加剂，搅拌，即得。
  16. 权利要求1-14任一项所述的发色膏组合物的使用方法，其特征在于，包括如下步骤：
    (1)取所述发色膏组合物涂覆于头发上，梳理；
    (2)重复或不重复步骤(1)，将所需遮盖的每根头发以所述发色膏组合物遮盖；
    (3)梳理至头发干燥后，即可。
  17. 根据权利要求16所述的发色膏组合物的使用方法，其特征在于，步骤(3)中，在所述梳理的同时，用人造风吹干。
  18. 根据权利要求17所述的发色膏组合物的使用方法，其特征在于，步骤(3)中，所述干燥后，再沿与步骤(1)所述涂覆的方向一致的方向进行梳理。
  19. 根据权利要求16-18任一项所述的发色膏组合物的使用方法，其特征在于，步骤(1)和/或步骤(3)中，所述梳理的方法为采用染发梳进行梳理；
    所述染发梳，包括梳体和梳柄，所述梳体设有用于上膏和初染的第一齿部，所述第一齿部包括有底板和多排齿，所述多排齿垂直设于所述底板，所述多排齿的外周齿高度大于内部齿，形成凹槽，所述第一齿部的背侧还设有用于精细梳染的第二齿部，所述第二齿部为单排齿，所述多排齿的齿间距大于所述单排齿的齿间距。
  20. 根据权利要求19所述的发色膏组合物的使用方法，其特征在于，步骤(1)中所述梳理的方法为：
    取所述发色膏组合物于所述凹槽，梳理涂覆于头发上；然后先采用所述第 一齿部梳理，再采用所述第二齿部梳理；
    步骤(3)中所述梳理的方法为：采用所述第二齿部梳理。
  21. 根据权利要求19所述的发色膏组合物的使用方法，其特征在于，包括如下步骤：
    (1)取1～10g所述发色膏组合物于所述凹槽，涂覆于头发上；然后先采用所述第一齿部梳理，再采用所述第二齿部梳理；
    (2)重复或不重复步骤(1)，将所需遮盖的每根头发以所述发色膏组合物遮盖；
    (3)采用所述第二齿部梳理，并在所述梳理的同时，用人造风吹干。
PCT/CN2017/103416 2017-01-22 2017-09-26 发色膏组合物及其制备方法和使用方法 WO2018133442A1 (zh)

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