WO2018113986A1 - Composition ayant un effet anti-dépôt de particules - Google Patents

Composition ayant un effet anti-dépôt de particules Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2018113986A1
WO2018113986A1 PCT/EP2016/082461 EP2016082461W WO2018113986A1 WO 2018113986 A1 WO2018113986 A1 WO 2018113986A1 EP 2016082461 W EP2016082461 W EP 2016082461W WO 2018113986 A1 WO2018113986 A1 WO 2018113986A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
particles
carbon atoms
acid
fatty
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Application number
PCT/EP2016/082461
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Di SHEN
Rongjing Xu
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to CN201680091862.7A priority Critical patent/CN110099660B/zh
Priority to PCT/EP2016/082461 priority patent/WO2018113986A1/fr
Publication of WO2018113986A1 publication Critical patent/WO2018113986A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q90/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations for specific uses not provided for in other groups of this subclass
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/596—Mixtures of surface active compounds

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to compositions having an anti-deposition effect against fine particles or dusts.
  • the human skin and scalp is the first barrier protecting the body from the environment. Every day it undergoes external aggressions, which result in many skin problems, such as accelerated aging, skin disorder, discomfort, or skin greasiness.
  • the external aggressions are caused for example, by UV radiation or atmospheric pollution.
  • atmospheric pollution namely the pollutants in the air
  • dust or fine particles such as PM 2.5
  • carbon powders or gases such as CO, S0 2 , NO x
  • Fine particles existing in the air tend to be adherent to the skin. They will deposit on the skin even after cleansing. This deposition is not desired by the consumers, as it is believed that the pores on the skin will be clogged and therefore causing skin problems.
  • the Applicant has now discovered that it is possible to formulate cosmetic compositions having the desired properties as described above. Specifically, the Applicant has discovered that it is possible to formulate skin care compositions, which are efficient for preventing or reducing dusts or fine particles from depositing on skin or scalp, which are non-sticky and non-greasy, and which confer a fresh feeling after application.
  • the present invention provides compositions having improved anti-deposition effect against fine particles.
  • anti-deposition effect it is meant that the compositions reduce or prevent dust or fine particles on the keratin materials, in particular the skin or scalp.
  • the invention provides skin care or make-up compositions showing an anti-deposition effect against dust or fine particles, by mimicking the surface of lotus leaf, also called “lotus effect”. Said “lotus effect” refers to anti-deposition against dust or fine particles and self-cleansing properties of the surface of lotus leaf.
  • the present invention thus relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising:
  • At least one non-ionic surfactant of ester type comprising a mixture of at least one monounsaturated ester and at least one polyglyceryl diester.
  • compositions according to the invention confers an anti-deposition effect against fine particles.
  • the composition of the present invention reduces or minimizes the deposition of dust or fine particles on the keratin materials, thus ensuring protection thereof.
  • the compositions according to the invention comprise a combination of particles and particular non-ionic surfactant(s) of ester type, in order to mimic the roughness of lotus leaf surface.
  • the non-ionic surfactant of ester type b plays the role of emulsifier and film-former. When used in combination with the particles a), it forms a two-tier rough surface on skin, and mimics the surface of lotus leaf, thereby showing an improved anti-deposition effect.
  • the term “comprising” is to be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well optional, additional, unspecified ones. As used herein, the use of the term “comprising” also discloses the embodiment wherein no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e. "consisting of”).
  • the "dust or fine particles” have to be interpreted as the atmospheric particulate matters, also known as particulate matters (PM) or particulates, referring to microscopic solid or liquid matters suspended in the Earth's atmosphere.
  • PM 2.5 as mentioned above refers to fine particles with diameter of 2.5 micrometers or less.
  • the "keratin materials” mean human keratin materials, and more specifically skin and scalp, in particular skin.
  • mean particle size or "particle size” in accordance to the present invention is the mean particle size measured by a Brookhaven BI-90 photon correlation spectrometer.
  • the composition comprises particles a) having a mean particle size of less than 0.8 micrometer.
  • the particles a) have a particle size varying from 100 nm to 800 nm, preferably from 150 nm to 400 nm, and more particularly from 150 nm to 375 nm, as measured by a Brookhaven BI-90 photon correlation spectrometer.
  • the particles a) according to the present invention can be particles of any shape, which are insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition irrespective of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.
  • the particles a) of the present invention may be in lamellar (or platelet), spherical (or globular) particles, in the form of fibers or in any other intermediate form between these defined forms.
  • the term "spherical particles” is intended to mean particles in the shape or substantially in the shape of a sphere, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting point of the medium (approximately 100°C).
  • lamellar particles is intended here to mean particles of parallelepipedal shape (rectangular or square surface), discoid shape (circular surface) or ellipsoid shape (oval surface), characterized by three dimensions: a length, a width and a height, said particles being insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting point of the medium (approximately 100°C).
  • the particles a) according to the invention are chosen from spherical particles, optionally partially hollow.
  • the particles a) suitable for the present invention are hollow spherical particles.
  • the hollow particles according to the invention may have a particle size which ranges generally from 100 to 380 nm, preferably from 150 to 375 nm, the particle size being measured by a Brookhaven BI-90 photon correlation spectrometer.
  • the hollow particles according to the invention in general, possess a maximum hollow fraction.
  • the hollow particles preferably contain a void fraction of 0.1 % to 50% and more preferably of 5% to 50%.
  • the void fractions are determined by comparing the volume occupied by the hollow particles after having been compacted from a diluted dispersion in a centrifuge, relative to the volume of non-void particles in the same composition.
  • Hollow particles according to the invention may be obtained from particles comprising at least one polymer for the core and at least one polymer for the shell.
  • the core polymer and the shell polymer may be obtained from a single polymerization step or from a sequence of polymerization steps.
  • the hollow particles according to the invention may be prepared by the conventional techniques of emulsion polymerization. Such processes are described especially in patents US 4,427,836, US 4,469,825, US 4,594,363, US 4,677,003, US 4,920,160, and US 4,970,241 or by the conventional techniques of polymerization that are described in the following patents and patent applications: EP267726, EP331421 , US 490,229, and US 5,157,084.
  • the monomers used for the shell of the hollow particles are preferably constituted of one or more unsaturated nonionic ethylenic monomers.
  • one or more monoethylenically unsaturated monomers containing at least one carboxylic acid group may be polymerized in the shell.
  • the monomers constituting the shell may be selected such that they exhibit a glass transition temperature (Tg) which is sufficiently high to withstand the void of the hollow particle.
  • Tg glass transition temperature
  • the glass transition temperature is greater than 50°C, more preferably greater than 60°C, and more preferably still greater than 70°C.
  • This temperature Tg may be determined by DSC (differential scanning calorimetry).
  • the monomers used in the emulsion polymerization in the core polymer of the hollow particles of the invention are preferably constituted of one or more monoethylenically unsaturated monomers containing at least one carboxylic acid group.
  • the core comprises at least 5% by weight of monoethylenically unsaturated monomer containing at least one carboxylic acid group, relative to the total weight of the core monomers.
  • the core polymer may for example be obtained by emulsion homopolymerization of the monoethylenically unsaturated monomer containing at least one acid group or by copolymerization of two or three monoethylenically unsaturated monomers containing at least one acid group.
  • the monoethylenically unsaturated monomer containing at least one acid group is copolymerized with one or more ethylenically unsaturated nonionic monomers.
  • the core polymer or the shell polymer may contain from 0.1 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 3% by weight, of polyethylenically unsaturated monomers such as ethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, allyl (meth)acrylate, 1 ,3-butanediol di(meth)acrylate, diethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane tri(meth)acrylate, or divinylbenzene, relative to the total weight of core monomers.
  • the core polymer or the shell polymer may optionally contain from 0.1 % to 60% by weight of butadiene, relative to the total weight of core monomers.
  • the monoethylenically unsaturated monomers containing at least one carboxylic acid group include, for example: acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, acryloyloxypropionic acid, (meth)acryloyloxypropionic acid, itaconic acid, aconitic acid, maleic acid or maleic anhydride, fumaric acid, crotonic acid, monomethyl maleate, monomethyl fumarate, and monomethyl itaconate.
  • Use will be made more particularly of a monomer selected from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid.
  • the monoethylenically unsaturated nonionic monomers include, for example: styrene, vinyltoluene, vinyl acetate, vinyl chloride, vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile, (meth)acrylamide, Ci-C 20 alkyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid, and (C 3 -C 2 o) alkenyl esters of (meth)acrylic acid, such as methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, butyl (meth)acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl (meth)acrylate, benzyl (meth)acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate, oleyl (meth)acrylate, palmityl (meth)acrylate, and stearyl (meth)acrylate.
  • the term (meth)acrylic will denote the general expression encompassing both methacrylic or acrylic.
  • the term (meth)acrylate will denote the general expression
  • the void part of the core of the hollow particles is preferably produced by swelling the core with a swelling agent comprising one or more volatile compounds.
  • the agent penetrates the shell in order to swell the core.
  • the volatile components of the swelling agent may be subsequently removed by drying the hollow particles, thus creating a void within the said particles.
  • the swelling agent is preferably an aqueous base. Mention may be made, for example, of ammonia, ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide, and volatile amines such as trimethylamine or triethylamine.
  • the hollow particles may be introduced into the composition of the invention with the swelling agent. In such a case the volatile compounds are removed when the composition is dried.
  • the hollow particles may also be added to the composition after the volatile compounds of the swelling agent have been removed.
  • the hollow particles which can be used according to the invention are those described in patent US 5,663,213 and patent application EP1092421 .
  • the hollow particles used will be those constituted of a copolymer of styrene and (meth)acrylic acid or one of its C C 20 alkyl esters under the INCI name Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, such as the product sold under the trade name SunspheresTM Powder by the company Rohm & Haas, which contains 86% of Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer in a mixture of 1 1 % of PEG-8 Laurate, 2.5% of water, and 0.5% of Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate.
  • a copolymer of styrene and (meth)acrylic acid or one of its C C 20 alkyl esters under the INCI name Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer such as the product sold under the trade name SunspheresTM Powder by the company Rohm & Haas, which contains 86% of Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer in a mixture of 1 1 % of P
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises the particles a) in an amount of from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • the composition comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant of ester type, which is particularly a mixture of at least an ester obtained by esterification of a solid wax with a polyol, of a fatty acid diester with a polyglycerol, of a jojoba wax (preferably a jojoba wax ester), and of a fatty alcohol.
  • Said ester is non-ionic.
  • Said non-ionic surfactant of ester type comprises a mixture of at least one monounsaturated ester and at least one polyglyceryl diester.
  • the non-ionic surfactant of ester type comprises:
  • R1 and R2 represent, respectively, a C18 to C44 fatty chain, at least one of R1 or R2 is monounsaturated;
  • R3 and R4 represent, respectively, a saturated C18 to C44 fatty chain, linear or branched, and
  • R1 and R2 represent, respectively, a C18-C40 fatty chain, more preferably a C18-C30 fatty chain. At least one of R1 or R2 is monounsaturated.
  • the R1— C(O) group corresponds to the carbon chain of the fatty acid.
  • This chain may be linear or monounsaturated, and comprises at least 18 carbon atoms. Mention can be made of oleic (C18:1 ), gadoleic (C20:1 ), erucic (C22:1 ) acid, up to hexaconenoic (C26:1 ) acid for unsaturated acids.
  • the R1— C(O) group may also consist of branched and saturated acids of at least 18 carbon atoms, also called Guerbet acids.
  • the R2— O— group may consist of monounsaturated linear fatty alcohols with at least 18 carbon atoms.
  • the carbon chain of the alcohol may also be branched and saturated and comprise at least 18 carbon atoms. Such alcohols are also called Guerbet alcohols.
  • the monounsaturated ester of the formula (A) is a mixture of esters comprising various lengths of fatty chains in their structures. More preferably, such a monounsaturated ester is liquid at ambient temperature.
  • a preferred monounsaturated ester can be mentioned is, for example, the product commonly called jojoba oil (or jojoba esters), the liquid nature being due to the presence of monounsaturated chains.
  • This oil comprises in particular C18:1 (preferably minority), C20:1 and C22:1 (preferably majority with C20:1 >C22:1 ) unsaturated fatty acid esters, with C20:1 , C22:1 and C24:1 unsaturated fatty alcohols.
  • the R3— C(O)— group corresponds to the carbon chain of C18 to C44 fatty acid, said acid usually being linear and saturated, preferably corresponds to a linear and saturated C20 to C34 fatty acid.
  • This therefore includes eicosanoic (or arachidic) acid (C20), docosanoic (or behenic) acid (C22), tetracosanoic (or lignoceric) acid (C24), hexacosanoic (or cerotic) acid (C26).
  • the R4 group corresponds to the hydrocarbon chain of the alcohol, said alcohol usually being saturated linear and having a C18 to C44 chain, preferably C20 to C34 chain, n is an integer between 2 to 6.
  • the polyglyceryl diester is obtained by esterification of a solid wax in the presence of at least one polyol.
  • the wax under consideration in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, preferably greater than or equal to 40 5 C, which may be up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.
  • the mixture of monoesters may also contain a certain proportion of hydroxyacid esters such as hydroxypalmitic or hydroxystearic acid. This is the case for example of beeswax.
  • said alcohol is eicosanol, docosanol or tetracosanol.
  • Beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, ouricury wax, Shellac wax and sugarcane wax are examples of natural solid waxes.
  • the solid wax is beeswax.
  • Solid waxes suitable for obtaining the polyglyceryl diester have a melting point between 50 and 90°C. They correspond to mixtures essentially comprising monoesters having the formula R 1 — C(O)— O— R 2 , where the R 1 — C(O)— group corresponds to the carbon chain of the fatty acid, said acid usually being linear and saturated and having a number of carbon atoms of at least 18, and in particular 20, and preferably up to 44 and preferably 34.
  • the mixture of monoesters may also contain a certain proportion of hydroxyacid esters such as hydroxypalmitic or hydroxystearic acid. This is the case for example of beeswax.
  • the R 2 group corresponds to the hydrocarbon chain of the alcohol, said alcohol usually being saturated linear and having a number of carbon atoms of at least 18, and in particular 20, and preferably up to 44 and preferably 34.
  • said alcohol is eicosanol, docosanol or tetracosanol.
  • Beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, ouricury wax, Shellac wax and sugarcane wax are examples of natural solid waxes.
  • the solid wax suitable for the esterification reaction is beeswax.
  • the polyol used for esterification is selected from the group comprising ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 2-methyl propanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, hexylene glycol, octylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, trimethylol propane, sorbitol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, glycerol, diglycerol and polyglycerol (i.e. a polymer of glycerol units). More preferably, the polyol is a polyglycerol, having an average degree of polymerization between 2 and 6, preferably of 3. Preferably, the polyol is polyglycerol-3.
  • the non-ionic ester surfactant also comprises the acid part of a solid wax.
  • Waxes have a complex composition. They have the common feature of containing a mixture of acid monoesters and very long chain fatty alcohols.
  • the non-ionic ester surfactant is a wax derivative obtained by reacting together at least one solid wax and at least one monounsaturated ester of formula (A) in the presence of at least one polyol and optionally at least one catalyst.
  • a transesterification reaction occurs between the various chemical entities yielding the wax derivative.
  • the preferred catalysts are hydroxides or alkaline or alkaline earth alkoxides, calcium hydroxide, potassium or sodium carbonates or catalysts based on tin or titanium.
  • the solid wax is advantageously selected from the group comprising carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice bran wax, sunflower wax, sugarcane wax, ouricury wax, beeswax and Shellac wax.
  • the wax derivative is obtained by reacting jojoba oil (also called as jojoba wax), beeswax and a polyglycerol, such as polyglycerol-3.
  • the reaction is preferably conducted at a temperature of between 100°C and 220°C, advantageously between 150°C and 200°C.
  • the liquid wax/solid wax mass ratio varies between 5/95 and 95/5, advantageously between 30/70 and 75/25.
  • the wax/polyol mass ratio preferably varies between 1/99 and 99/1 , advantageously between 95/5 and 50/50.
  • the proportion of esterified polyol represents between 0.5 and 50% by weight of the mixture
  • the proportion of esterified fatty acids represents between 20 and 60% by weight of the mixture
  • the proportion of esterified fatty alcohols between 20 and 60% by weight of the mixture.
  • the non-ionic ester surfactant is further present with a diester of a Ci 4 - C 22 fatty acid with a polyglycerol.
  • the Ci 4 -C 22 fatty acid may be chosen from the group of myristic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid and arachidic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polyglycerol may be a polymer of glycerol units, preferably a polymer having an average degree of polymerization between 4 and 8, preferably of 6.
  • said diester is a diester of distearic acid with hexaglycerol.
  • it is polyglyceryl-6 distearate.
  • the non-ionic ester type surfactant according to the invention comprises at least one fatty alcohol containing from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • fatty alcohols that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may in particular be made of lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmityl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and arachidyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • Said mixture comprises from 5 to 30% by weight of the total weight of the mixture of jojoba wax; from 3 to 15% by weight of cetyl alcohol; at least 50% by weight of polyglyceryl-6 distearate; and from 3 to 15% by weight of polyglyceryl-3 beeswax.
  • the non-ionic ester surfactant may be present in a composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • a continuous aqueous phase (i).
  • Said aqueous phase is preferably present in an amount ranging from 10% to 90% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 80% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • the continuous aqueous phase may comprise water, at least one organic solvent miscible with water or mixtures thereof.
  • the continuous aqueous phase comprises at least one organic solvent miscible with water (at room temperature - 25°C) such as for example monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols notably having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylylglycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (notably having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tri- propylene glycol (CrC 4 )alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or tri-ethylene glycol (CrC 4 ) alkyl ethers; and mixtures thereof.
  • the continuous aqueous phase of the composition of the invention preferably comprises water and at least one organic
  • the continuous aqueous phase comprises water, a mixture of polyols, preferably glycerol and propylene glycol, and a monoalcohol, preferably ethanol.
  • water is present in an amount ranging from 20% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 30% to 60% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • the organic solvent(s) miscible with water is(are) present in an amount ranging from 5% to 80% by weight, more preferably from 7% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • the continuous aqueous phase may comprise a thickener.
  • the thickeners may advantageously be chosen from xanthan, guar, hydroxypropyl guar, scleroglucan, methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose (available as AQUACOTE ® ), hydroxyethyl cellulose (NATROSOL ® ), carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethyl cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, hydroxybutylmethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose (available as KLUCEL ® ), hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose, cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose (available as NATROSOL ® Plus 330), N-vinylpyrolidone (available as POVIDONE ® ), Acrylates/Ceteth-20 Itaconate Copolymer (available as STRUCTURE ® 3001 ), hydroxypropyl starch phosphate (available as STRUCTURE ® ZEA), polye
  • PEG-150/Decyl/SMDI copolymer e.g. ACULYN ® 44
  • PEG-150/Stearyl/SMDI copolymer available as ACULYN ® 46
  • trihydroxystearin available as THIXCIN ®
  • acrylates copolymer e.g. available as ACULYN ® 33
  • hydrophobically modified acrylate copolymers e.g.
  • acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate copolymer available as ACULYN ® 22
  • acrylates/steareth-20 methacrylate crosspolymer available as ACULYN ® 88
  • acrylates/vinyl neodecanoate crosspolymer available as ACULYN ® 38
  • acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer available as ACULYN ® 28
  • Acrylates/C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer PemulenTM TR1 and TR2
  • Carbomers (Aqua SF-1 ); hydrophobically modified sulfonic acid copolymers such as Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer (Aristoflex AVC from Clariant), Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer (Aristoflex ® HMB from Clariant), Ammonium Acryloyldimethyl
  • the thickener is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition of the invention further comprises a dispersed fatty phase.
  • the fatty phase may comprise at least one oil.
  • the oil means a fatty substance which is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 101 kPa).
  • the oil means a non-aqueous liquid medium which is immiscible in all proportions with water, for example, a hydrocarbon-based compound comprising one or more carbon chains each containing at least 5 carbon atoms and possibly comprising at least one polar group chosen from carboxylic acid, hydroxyl, polyol, amine, amide, phosphoric acid, phosphate, ester, ether, urea, carbamate, thiol, thioether and thioester, a silicone compound optionally comprising carbon chains at the end or pendant, these chains optionally being substituted with a group chosen from fluoro, perfluoro, (poly)amino acid, ether, hydroxyl, amine, acid and ester groups; or a fluoro or perfluoro compound such as fluorohydrocarbons or
  • the oil may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • volatile oil means any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the lips in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is liquid at room temperature and has a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 10 ⁇ 2 to 300 mmHg (1 .33 to 40 000 Pa) and, for example, greater than 0.03 mmHg (4 Pa) and further example greater than 0.3 mmHg (40 Pa).
  • non-volatile oil means an oil which remains on the skin or the lips at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, such as those having a vapor pressure of less than 10 ⁇ 2 mmHg (1 .33 Pa).
  • the oil may be chosen from polar oils and apolar oils including hydrocarbon- based liquid oils and oily liquids at room temperature.
  • the oil can be, for example, present in an amount ranging from 1 % to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5% to 50%.
  • polar oil useful in the invention may be chosen from the group of:
  • oils with a high content of triglycerides comprising fatty acid esters of glycerol in which the fatty acids may have varied chain lengths from C 4 to C 2 4, these chains possibly being chosen from linear and branched, and saturated and unsaturated chains;
  • these oils can be chosen from, for example, wheat germ oil, corn oil, sunflower oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter (such as the one sold by Aarhuskarlshamn under the name Lipex 202), karite butter, castor oil, sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, apricot oil, soybean oil, cotton oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, marrow oil, rapeseed oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil, grape seed oil, blackcurrant seed oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, olive oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil and musk rose oil; or alternatively cap
  • R 5 COOR 6 in which R 5 is chosen from linear and branched fatty acid residues containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 6 is chosen from, for example, a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that R 5 + R 6 > 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C 12 -C 15 alkyl benzoates, isopropyl myristate, myristyl myristate, 2- ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate and alkyl or polyalkyl octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters;
  • R 5 is chosen from linear and branched fatty acid residues containing from 1 to 40 carbon atom
  • - C 8 to C 26 fatty acids such as oleic acid, linolenic acid or linoleic acid.
  • the apolar oil according to the invention is chosen from the group of, for example, silicone oils chosen from volatile and non-volatile, linear and cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) that are liquid at room temperature; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendant and/or at the end of the silicone chain, the groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylsilicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2- phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates; hydrocarbons chosen from linear and branched, volatile and non-volatile hydrocarbons of synthetic and mineral origin, such as volatile liquid paraffins (such as isoparaffins and isododecane) or non-vola
  • the dispersed fatty phase comprises at least one oil chosen from the group of volatile and non-volatile silicone oils.
  • the dispersed fatty phase may also include an emulsifying crosslinked siloxane elastomer, preferably at a concentration, by weight, of about 0.1 % to about 20%, preferably about 0.3% to about 10%, preferably about 0.5% to about 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • an emulsifying crosslinked siloxane elastomer preferably at a concentration, by weight, of about 0.1 % to about 20%, preferably about 0.3% to about 10%, preferably about 0.5% to about 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • suitable emulsifying crosslinked siloxane elastomers include, but are not limited to, substituted or unsubstituted dimethicone/copolyol crosspolymer, dimethicone and dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosspolymers, substituted or unsubstituted dimethicone/polyglyceryl crosspolymer, dimethicone and dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer.
  • Such suitable emulsifying crosslinked siloxane elastomers are sold or made, for example, under the names of "KSG- 210", i.e.
  • composition of the invention may comprise other ingredients, such as anionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.
  • surfactant(s) can be, for example, present in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.2% to 1 %.
  • surfactants can be chosen in particular from anionic derivatives of proteins of vegetable origin, amino acids and amino acid derivatives, alkyi sulphates, alkyi ether sulphates, sulphonates, isethionates, taurates, sulphosuccinates, alkyi sulphoacetates, phosphates and alkyi phosphates, polypeptides, anionic derivatives of alkyi polyglucoside, soaps (salts of fatty acids), soybean oil derivatives, acylamino acids, amino acid derivatives, their salts and their mixtures.
  • acylamino acids of sodium cocoyi glycinate, sold by Ajinomoto under the name Amilite GCS-12, alaninates and their derivatives, such as that sold under the name Amilite ACS-12 by Amilon, sodium cocoyi glycinate, sold by Ajinomoto under the name Amilite GCK-12, disodium cocoyi glutamate, sold by Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft ECS-22SB, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sold by Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft LS1 1 , sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sold by Seppic under the name Oramix L 30, disodium and sodium stearoyl glutamate, sold by Ajinomoto under the names Amisoft HS21 P and HS1 1 P, and sodium cocoyi sarcosinate, sold by Zschimmer & Schwarz under the name Protelan LS 901 1/C.
  • the amino acid derivatives can be chosen, for example, from sarcosinates and in particular acylsarcosinates, such as sodium lauroylsarcosinate, sold under the name Sarkosyl NL 97 ® by Ciba or sold under the name Oramix L 30® by Seppic, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate MN® by Nikkol, or sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate PN® by Nikkol; alaninates, such as sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate, sold under the name Sodium Nikkol Alaninate LN 30® by Nikkol or sold under the name Alanone Ale®, by Kawaken, and triethanolamine N-lauroyl-N-methylalanine, sold under the name Alanone Alta® by Kawaken; aspartates, such as the mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroyl as
  • composition of the invention may also further comprise at least one additive.
  • a person skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of additives present in the compositions according to the invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties for these compositions are not affected by the additives.
  • the present invention also relates to a method for reducing deposition of fine particles on keratin materials, in particular the skin and scalp, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition of the invention.
  • the present invention also relates to the use of the composition of the invention for reducing deposition of fine particles and/or water on keratin materials, in particular the skin and scalp.
  • Example 1 Preparation of a composition according to the present invention
  • a composition according to the invention was prepared according to the amounts in the table below. The amounts are given in % by weight of the total composition.
  • Comparative formula B does not contain particles a) as described in the present invention
  • Comparative formula C contains silica particles, which have a mean particle size of 5.1 ⁇ , which is not in the scope of the particles a) as described.
  • the formulas were prepared according to the following steps:
  • Phase A1 was heated to 80°C until totally melted before phase A2 was introduced.
  • Phase B1 was homogenized at 60°C before temperature was raised up to 80°C, andphase B2 was added. When the mixture was homogenized, phase B3 was then added.
  • the CB at the surface of formula was removed with a low-angled air (W5). This is achieved by an airbrush with IWATA compressor with a flow pressure at 0.6 bars. The distance between airbrush and Bioskin plate is 10 cm. The inventors applied a rotation movement for 30 seconds (7 seconds for each quarter circle), and just put the airbrush at the edge of the circle in order to make an angle of 0° with the Bioskin.
  • the CB removal efficacy is calculated as follows:

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Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition sous la forme d'une émulsion huile dans l'eau, comprenant : a) des particules ayant une taille moyenne de particule inférieure à 0,8 micromètre; et b) au moins un tensioactif non ionique de type ester, comprenant un mélange d'au moins un ester monoinsaturé et d'au moins un diester de polyglycéryle. L'invention concerne également un procédé de réduction du dépôt de fines particules sur des matières kératiniques, en particulier la peau et le cuir chevelu, comprenant l'application de ladite composition sur les matières kératiniques.
PCT/EP2016/082461 2016-12-22 2016-12-22 Composition ayant un effet anti-dépôt de particules WO2018113986A1 (fr)

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CN113226273A (zh) * 2018-10-30 2021-08-06 莱雅公司 用于皮肤护理的化妆品组合物
RU2803092C1 (ru) * 2019-12-19 2023-09-06 Л'Ореаль Твердая композиция в форме водомасляной эмульсии

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US20230121362A1 (en) * 2020-03-31 2023-04-20 L'oreal Cosmetic composition for skin care

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US4427836A (en) 1980-06-12 1984-01-24 Rohm And Haas Company Sequential heteropolymer dispersion and a particulate material obtainable therefrom, useful in coating compositions as a thickening and/or opacifying agent
US4469825A (en) 1983-03-09 1984-09-04 Rohm And Haas Company Sequential heteropolymer dispersion and a particulate material obtainable therefrom, useful in coating compositions as an opacifying agent
US4594363A (en) 1985-01-11 1986-06-10 Rohm And Haas Company Production of core-sheath polymer particles containing voids, resulting product and use
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CN113226273A (zh) * 2018-10-30 2021-08-06 莱雅公司 用于皮肤护理的化妆品组合物
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RU2803092C1 (ru) * 2019-12-19 2023-09-06 Л'Ореаль Твердая композиция в форме водомасляной эмульсии

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