WO2017037001A1 - Composition cosmétique ou dermatologique pour éclaircir la peau - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique ou dermatologique pour éclaircir la peau Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2017037001A1
WO2017037001A1 PCT/EP2016/070282 EP2016070282W WO2017037001A1 WO 2017037001 A1 WO2017037001 A1 WO 2017037001A1 EP 2016070282 W EP2016070282 W EP 2016070282W WO 2017037001 A1 WO2017037001 A1 WO 2017037001A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
extract
skin
acid
composition according
weight
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PCT/EP2016/070282
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Iris Marina Stadler
Ira Hartmann
Soraya Heinen
Marianne Waldmann-Laue
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2017037001A1 publication Critical patent/WO2017037001A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67—Vitamins
    • A61K8/676—Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions

Definitions

  • the invention is in the field of cosmetics and relates to compositions for cosmetic or topical dermatological skin lightening which contain at least one ascorbic acid ester and at least two special plant extracts.
  • the invention furthermore relates to the use of the cosmetic or dermatological compositions for lightening the skin and / or for lightening pigmentations of the skin and for smoothing the skin surface and achieving a more even skin appearance.
  • the pigmentation of the skin takes place in the melanocytes, which are found in the lowest layer of the epidermis next to the basal cells as either isolated or frequently occurring pigment-forming cells depending on the skin type.
  • the melanocytes form melanosomes in which melanin is formed. Through various chemical and / or physical influences, in particular by UV radiation, melanin is increasingly formed. This is transported via the keratinocytes into the corneocytes (horny layer) and leads to a brownish to brown-black skin color.
  • Melanin is formed as the final stage of an oxidative process in which tyrosine is converted with the participation of the enzyme tyrosinase via several intermediates to the brown to brown-black eumelanins (DHICA and DHI melanin) or with the involvement of sulfur-containing compounds to the reddish phaeomelanin.
  • DHICA and DHI melanin brown to brown-black eumelanins
  • Melanin formation - and thus skin and hair color - is subject to external influences and, in addition to desired effects ("healthy tan”), can also lead to undesired phenomena, in particular UV radiation can cause the formation of freckles, but also due to genetic disposition, Wound healing or scarring or skin aging ("age spots”) occur. Also, hormonal disorders may be responsible for abnormal melanocyte reactions and increased accumulation of melanin in the skin, resulting in unwanted - mostly brown - spots on the skin.
  • Skin aging also involves the phenomenon that dead or damaged skin cells can no longer be satisfactorily removed by conventional cosmetic skin treatments (such as peelings) and instead accumulate in the upper layers of the skin. Combined with a reduced rate of renewal of skin cells with increasing age, it may also result in an irregular appearance of the skin surface except for the formation of age spots, making skin lines and wrinkles more visible.
  • skin whitening agents which contain ascorbic acid or its physiologically tolerated derivatives or salts and 8-hexadecene-1, 16-dicarboxylic acid, sebacic acid and / or azelaic acid.
  • Document DE 102012222970 relates to providing a skin lightening compositions, the possible natural product-based skin lightening agents (Exfolactive ®) included.
  • cosmetic or dermatological compositions with which several signs of skin aging can be combated in a single treatment step.
  • irregularities of the skin surface should be mitigated and / or eliminated in order to achieve an overall more uniform appearance of the skin.
  • Another object of the invention was to find for the production of cosmetic or dermatological compositions well-tolerated, possibly based on natural substances or drug combinations.
  • a first subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic or dermatological composition which
  • c) contains at least one further plant extract selected from Bambusa vulgaris extract and / or from Pisum sativum extract.
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one ascorbic acid ester a).
  • Suitable ascorbic acid esters a) for the purposes of the present invention may preferably be selected from esters of ascorbic acid with organic acids according to the following formula (I)
  • R 1 to R 4 represent the moiety -C (O) -R and the other radicals may be hydrogen; and R is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alk (en) yl radical having 8 to 24, preferably 10 to 20 and in particular 13 to 17 carbon atoms.
  • Very particularly preferred esters of ascorbic acid with organic acids are the following compounds: ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl isopalmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, ascorbyl stearate, ascorbyl isostearate, ascorbyl oleate, and / or ascorbyl linoleate.
  • ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is a particularly preferred organic ascorbic acid ester a).
  • esters of ascorbic acid with inorganic acids preferably with phosphoric acid or sulfuric acid.
  • esters of ascorbic acid with inorganic acids preferably with phosphoric acid or sulfuric acid.
  • Particularly preferred according to the invention are ascorbyl phosphate and / or ascorbyl sulfate or the alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts of ascorbyl phosphate and / or ascorbyl sulfate, such as, for example, the compounds known under the INCI names Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Ascorbyl Sulfate and / or Magnesium Ascorbyl Sulfate ,
  • Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is, due to its excellent stability in aqueous media, a particularly preferred inorganic ascorbic acid ester a).
  • compositions according to the invention is particularly suitable for achieving optimal lightening (pigmented) skin and additionally stimulating collagen synthesis.
  • the ascorbic acid ester (s) a) may be present in the compositions according to the invention, based on their total weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.01 to 5.00% by weight, more preferably from 0.10 to 4.00% by weight. , particularly preferably from 0.25 to 3.00 wt .-% and in particular from 0.50 to 2.00 wt .-% are used.
  • the inventive compositions contain, based on their total weight, 0.01 to 5.00 wt .-% of at least one ascorbic a), preferably 0.10 to 2.00 wt .-% of at least one ascorbic ai) and 0.10 to 2.00% by weight of at least one ascorbic acid ester aii).
  • compositions according to the invention which contain from 0.10 to 2.00% by weight, preferably from 0.20 to 1.75% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.30 to 1.50% by weight and in particular 0 , 40 to 1, 25 wt .-% ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (ai)) and 0, 10 to 2.00 wt .-%, preferably 0.20 to 1, 75 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.30 to 1, 50th Wt .-% and in particular 0.40 to 1, 25 wt .-% magnesium ascorbyl phosphates (aii)).
  • compositions according to the invention contain at least one extract of Opuntia ficus indica.
  • Opuntia ficus indica extract in combination with ascorbic acid esters a) and at least one other essential plant extract c) significantly supports the natural desquamation of dead skin cells and the natural cell renewal in the skin.
  • the additional application of mechanical and / or chemical peels for cleaning / smoothing the skin is no longer necessary.
  • Opuntia ficus indica is a species of the genus Opuntia of the cactus family (Cactaceae), which is native to India. Extracts from Opuntia can according to known manufacturing processes in a variable composition with solvents such as water, methanol, ethanol, acetone, etc., and mixtures thereof at temperatures of 20 ° C to 100 ° C with gentle to vigorous mixing within 10 min. To 24 Std. Under atmospheric pressure at up to 200 bar.
  • solvents such as water, methanol, ethanol, acetone, etc.
  • further concentration steps can be carried out, for example liquid-liquid distribution with, for example, 1-butanol / water or ethyl acetate / water, adsorption-desorption on ion exchangers, LH20, HP20 and other resins or chromatographic separations over RP18, silica gel, etc. If the further processing to dry extracts is desired, this is carried out according to known methods by stripping off the solvent at elevated temperature and / or reduced pressure.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on the total weight of the compositions, they contain from 0.10 to 5.00% by weight, preferably from 0.20 to 4.00% by weight, more preferably from 0.30 to Contains 3.00 wt .-% and in particular 0.40 to 2.50 wt .-% of at least one extract of Opuntia ficus indica.
  • Cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention which, based on the weight of the compositions, 0, 10 to 5.00 wt .-%, preferably 0.20 to 4.00 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.30 to 3.00 wt % and especially 0.40 to 2.50% by weight of at least one wholly or partially hydrolysed extract of Opuntia ficus indica (CAS No. 90082-21 -6) are furthermore preferred embodiments of the present invention.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one further plant extract selected from Bambusa vulgaris extract and / or from Pisum sativum extract.
  • Bambusa vulgaris extract and / or Pisum sativum extract support the collagen and elastin synthesis in the skin and contribute - coupled with the active ingredients a) and b) in the compositions of the invention - considerably to the achievement of a particularly even and elastic appearance of the skin.
  • Bambusa vulgaris (Goldbamboo) is a plant of the grass family (Poaceae), which occurs predominantly in Southeast Asia and Africa.
  • Pisum sativum is a plant of the genus Peas (Pisum) from the legume family (Fabaceae) and is native to Asia Minor.
  • Extracts of Bambusa vulgaris and / or Pisum sativum can be prepared by known manufacturing processes in variable composition.
  • a polar solvent or a mixture of polar solvents is used to obtain the extract.
  • a protic solvent may be used which is selected from the group consisting of: water, methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol, pentanol, cyclohexanol, diethylene glycol, HO- (CH 2) 2 OH and one of their mixtures.
  • an aprotic polar solvent which is selected, in particular, from the group consisting of: pyridine, butanone, acetone, AC 2 O, (Me 2 N) 2 CO, PhCN, CH 3 CH 2 CN, HM PA, PhNO 2 , McNO 2 , DMF, MeCN, sulfolane, DMSO, HCONH 2, NCONHMe, CHsCONHMe and one of their mixtures.
  • water or a mixture of water and an alcohol such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol or butanol, a polyol such as butylene glycol or an ester such as ethyl acetate or a mixture of these solvents is used.
  • the mixing ratios of the above-mentioned solvents generally vary between 1: 1 and 1: 100, and preferably between 1: 1 and 1:10; for example, a mixture of 25/75 is used.
  • the extraction can be carried out by stirring and / or heating, for example between 30 and 60 ° C or by reflux of the solvent used.
  • the extraction is usually carried out at atmospheric pressure, but also an extraction under pressure can be carried out.
  • the extraction time is determined by the skilled person and depends in particular on the extraction conditions. Multiple extractions may be performed and the resulting fractions pooled if desired.
  • compositions of the invention contain the at least one plant extract c) - based on their total weight - preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 5.00 wt .-%.
  • More preferred is an amount of from 0.02 to 4.00 wt%, more preferably from 0.03 to 3.50 wt%, and especially from 0.05 to 3.00 wt%.
  • compositions according to the invention contain, based on their total weight, preferably 0.01 to 5.00% by weight of the at least one plant extract c), preferably 0.01 to 1.00% by weight of at least one extract of Bambusa vulgaris (ci)) and 0.01 to 1, 00 wt .-% of at least one extract from Pisum sativum (cii)).
  • Bambusa vulgaris extract and Pisum sativum extract are commercially available, for example under the trade name Derm SRC® PF from Barnet Products.
  • ii) contain at least one extract of Pisum sativum.
  • cosmetic or dermatological compositions which, based on their total weight, comprise a) i) 0.10 to 2.00% by weight of ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl isopalmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, ascorbyl stearate, ascorbyl isostearate, ascorbyl oleate, and / or Ascorbyl linoleate, ii) 0.10 to 2.00% by weight of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate,
  • compositions which - based on their total weight - a) i) 0, 10 to 2.00 wt .-% ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate,
  • compositions according to the invention also care for the skin.
  • care is understood to mean, in particular, the increase in skin moisture, suppleness and elasticity of the treated skin.
  • hyaluronic acid and / or physiologically acceptable hyaluronic acid salts and / or physiologically acceptable hyaluronic acid esters are particularly suitable for combination with the active compounds a) -c) in the compositions according to the invention.
  • the smoothing effect of the skin structure can thereby be further enhanced.
  • compositions according to the invention additionally comprise at least one main active ingredient d) selected from hyaluronic acid, an ester and / or a salt of hyaluronic acid in an amount (based on the total weight of the compositions according to the invention) of from 0.01 to 20, 00 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 15.00 wt .-% particularly preferably from 0.10 to 10.00 wt .-% and in particular from 0.25 to 5.00 wt .-%.
  • main active ingredient d) selected from hyaluronic acid, an ester and / or a salt of hyaluronic acid in an amount (based on the total weight of the compositions according to the invention) of from 0.01 to 20, 00 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 15.00 wt .-% particularly preferably from 0.10 to 10.00 wt .-% and in particular from 0.25 to 5.00 wt .-%.
  • Suitable salts of hyaluronic acid are preferably their alkali metal and / or ammonium salts, for example the hyaluronic acid salt commercially available under the INCI name Sodium Hyaluronate from various suppliers (Therapo, CPN).
  • Preferred esters of hyaluronic acid may be selected from silanol esters, as obtainable, for example, under the INCI name Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate.
  • a preferred commercial product is offered for example by the company under the name Exsymol DSH CN ® commercially.
  • hyaluronic acid in pure form, it can also be part of small beads which can be added to the compositions according to the invention. Suitable beads are available, for example under the trade name Hyaluronic Filling Spheres ® by the company BASF.
  • a further particularly preferred embodiment of the invention is characterized in that the cosmetic or dermatological compositions comprise, based on their total weight, a) i) 0.10 to 2.00% by weight of ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl isopalmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, ascorbyl stearate, ascorbyl isostearate, ascorbyl oleate, and / or ascorbyl linoleate, ii) 0.10 to 2.00% by weight of sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate,
  • the cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention contain, based on their total weight, preferably 10 to 90% by weight, preferably 20 to 85% by weight, more preferably 30 to 80% by weight. %, more preferably 40 to 75 wt .-% and in particular 50 to 70 wt .-% water.
  • compositions according to the invention can furthermore contain from 1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 2 to 30 and especially from 3 to 20% by weight of at least one alcohol, preferably glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 2-methyl- 1, 3-propanediol, glycerol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2,6-hexanetriol, 1, 2-octanediol, 1, 8-octanediol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycol and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Preference is given to water-soluble alcohols.
  • Preferred water-soluble polyethylene glycols may be selected from PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18 and PEG-20 and mixtures thereof, with PEG-3 to PEG-8 being particularly preferred.
  • Sugar and certain sugar derivatives such as fructose, glucose, maltose, maltitol, mannitol, inositol, sucrose, trehalose and xylose may also be preferred according to the invention.
  • compositions of the invention contain as alcohol 1, 2-propylene glycol, glycerol, 1, 3-butylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, dipropylene glycol and / or tripropylene glycol.
  • compositions of the invention are preferably according to the requirements of the intended use.
  • compositions of the invention may be in solid, semi-solid, liquid, disperse, emulsified, suspended or gel form. Furthermore, they can be formulated as propellant-containing aerosol or propellant-free pump spray.
  • the compositions of the invention may be in the form of a hydrogel.
  • Hydrogels are water-containing gels based on hydrophilic but water-insoluble polymers, which exist as three-dimensional networks. In water, these networks swell up to an equilibrium volume while retaining their shape. The network formation occurs predominantly via chemical linkage of the individual polymer chains, but is also physically possible by electrostatic, hydrophobic or dipole / dipole interactions between individual segments of the polymer chains.
  • the choice of the monomers used for the polymer synthesis, the type of crosslinking and the crosslinking density can be used to tailor desired properties of the hydrogels.
  • the necessary hydrophilicity of the polymers provide, inter alia, hydroxyl, carboxylate, sulfonate and / or amide groups.
  • Synthetic hydrogels are based inter alia on - if necessary.
  • Preferred anionic polymeric hydrogel builders which can aid the action of the compositions of the present invention contain carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups and as monomers, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid.
  • the acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt.
  • Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.
  • anionic polymers contain as sole monomer or as a comonomer 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be wholly or partly in salt form.
  • copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer use are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.
  • Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers.
  • a particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid groups are wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt present.
  • This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used.
  • crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used.
  • crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used.
  • Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ® 305 from SEPPIC.
  • the NS under the designations Simulgel ® 600, Simulgel ®, Simulgel ® EG, Simulgel ® EPG and Sepiplus ® 400 as a compound with an oil such as isohexadecane, squalane or hydrogenated polyisobutene, and an emulsifier, such as polysorbate, Laureth-7 or Caprylyl / Capryl glucosides, sold sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymers (with monomers selected from acrylamide, sodium acrylate, hydroxyethyl acrylate and / or acrylic acid) have proven to be suitable according to the invention.
  • an oil such as isohexadecane, squalane or hydrogenated polyisobutene
  • an emulsifier such as polysorbate, Laureth-7 or Caprylyl / Capryl glucosides
  • sold sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymers sold sodium acryloyldimethyl
  • hydrogel ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate vinylpyrrolidone copolymer in particular the commercial product Aristoflex ® AVC from Clariant.
  • anionic homopolymer hydrogel formers are uncrosslinked and / or crosslinked poly (meth) acrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are, for example, the products commercially available from various suppliers under the INCI names Carbopol. Examples of particularly preferred Carbopol commercial products are the polymers of the Carbopol Ultrez ® - series, available from Lubrizol as Carbopol Ultrez ® 30th
  • a further particularly preferred anionic copolymer contains as monomer to 80-98% of an unsaturated C3-6 carboxylic acid or its anhydride and to 2-20% of acrylic acid esters of saturated Cio-30-carboxylic acids, which copolymer may be crosslinked with the aforementioned crosslinking agents.
  • Corresponding commercial products are Pemulen ®, and Carbopol ® grades 954, 980, 1342 and ETD 2020 (ex Noveon or BF Goodrich).
  • Preferred nonionic polymeric hydrogel for example, polyvinyl alcohols, which may be partially saponified, the commercial products Mowiol ®, and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers and polyvinyl pyrrolidones, for example, under the trade name Luviskol ® (BASF) for example.
  • BASF Luviskol ®
  • Preferred natural hydrogel formers according to the invention may preferably be selected from cellulose derivatives, if desired physically (thermally) and / or chemically modified, preferably from hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulase, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, furthermore from starches and starch degradation products such as amylose and amylopectin, from chemically and / or thermally modified starches, for example hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, dihydroxypropyldistarch phosphate, in particular the anionic starch derivatives aluminum starch octenylsuccinate (for example the commercial products Dry Flo® ), sodium starch octenylsuccinate, calcium starch octenylsuccinate, furthermore chitosan and derivatives thereof, furthermore polysaccharides which form gums or gums, such as guar gum, xanthan gum, alginates
  • compositions according to the invention a combination of special polymers as stabilizers or hydrogel formers is particularly suitable for the compositions according to the invention. They ensure excellent long-term stability and very good rheological properties of the compositions, so that they can be applied to the skin particularly easily and quickly and distributed there.
  • At least one natural hydrogel former preferably a polysaccharide and in particular xanthan gum, and
  • At least one synthetic (meth) acrylic acid-based polymer at least one synthetic (meth) acrylic acid-based polymer.
  • compositions according to the invention based on their total weight, therefore preferably contain 0.01 to 5.00 wt .-% of at least one stabilizing agent, preferably a combination of stabilizing agents, containing at least one polysaccharide, in particular xanthan gum, and at least one (Meth) acrylic acid homopolymer and / or copolymer.
  • at least one stabilizing agent preferably a combination of stabilizing agents, containing at least one polysaccharide, in particular xanthan gum, and at least one (Meth) acrylic acid homopolymer and / or copolymer.
  • compositions (based on their total weight)
  • compositions according to the invention are in the form of an emulsion, for example of the water-in-oil (W / O) type or Oil-in-water (O / W), a water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O) multiple emulsion.
  • compositions according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • oil-in-water emulsions may, also preferably, be stabilized by at least one of the abovementioned hydrogel formers.
  • emulsions may, for example, be in the form of creams, lotions and / or cosmetic milks and, in addition to the aforementioned active substances, furthermore contain fats, oils, waxes and / or other fatty substances and also water and one or more emulsifiers.
  • the oil phase is present in preferred emulsions according to the invention preferably in a weight fraction of 0.50-50.00 wt .-% of the total weight of the emulsion, more preferably from 1.00 to 40.00 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 1.50 to 30.00 wt. %, and most preferably from 2.00 to 25.00% by weight.
  • the Emukjator (s) is (are) counted neither the oil phase nor the water phase.
  • the oil phase consists of at least 90 wt .-% of an oil component at 20 ° C liquid.
  • Preferred oil components which can be used in emulsions which are preferred according to the invention are selected, for example, from:
  • volatile silicone oils which may be cyclic, such as.
  • octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and mixtures thereof, as described for. B. in the commercial products DC 244, 245, 344 and 345 of Dow Corning, or linear, z.
  • hexamethyldisiloxane (L 2) octamethyltrisiloxane (L 3), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L 4), any two- and three-mixtures of L 2.
  • L 3 and / or L 4 as described, for. B. in the commercial products DC 2-1184, Dow Corning ® 200 (0.65 cSt), and Dow Corning ® 200 (1.5 cSt) from Dow Corning are contained,
  • nonvolatile higher molecular weight linear dimethylpolysiloxanes commercially available e.g. Dow Corning® 190.
  • esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated include 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (z. B.
  • Cegesoft ® C 24 hexyldecyl stearate (Eutanot ® G 16), hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, Isononylstearat, isocetyl stearate, Isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanot, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl palmitate,
  • Finsolv ® TN (Ci2-Ci5 alkyl benzoate), Finsolv ® SB (isostearyl benzoate), and Finsolv EB ® (ethylhexyl).
  • the Cs-Cz2 fatty alcohol esters of monovalent or polyvalent C 2 -C -hydroxycarboxylic acids in particular the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid.
  • esters based on linear C12 15-alkanols eg. B. Cw-Cis-alkyl lactate, and branched in 2-position C12 1> alkanols, for.
  • B. di-Ci2-Ci i-Alkylmalat are man under the trademark Cosmacol® ® by the company Nord. To refer Rassmann GmbH & Co, in particular the commercial products Cosmacol® ® EMI.
  • Cosmacol ® ESI Cosmacol ® and EIT the addition products of Ethyienoxid and / or propylene oxide with mono- or polyhydric alkanols, such as C3-20 Butanoi, butanediol.
  • Myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol e.g. As PPG-14 butyl ether (Ucon Fluid ®, PPG-9-butyl ether (Breox B25 ®). PPG-10 butanediol (Macol ® 57).
  • PPG-3-myristyl ether (Witconol APM ®) and PPG-15 stearyl ether (Arlamol ® e)
  • liquid paraffin oils liquid paraffin oils.
  • Isoparaffin. z. B the commercial products of the Permethyl ® series, in particular isododecane, isohexadecane and isoeicosane,
  • hydrocarbons such as polyisobutene or polydecene and alicyclic hydrocarbons, e.g. B. the commercial product 1, 3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ® S), the branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. These alcohols are also often referred to as Guerbet alcohols, since they are available after the Guerbet reaction. Particularly preferred alcohol oils are for example Hexyldecanol (Eutanol ® G), octyl dodecanol, and 2-ethylhexyl alcohol,
  • Blends of Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol esters e.g. B. the commercial product Cetiol ® PGL (hexyldecanol and hexyldecyl laurate),
  • Triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C 8-30 fatty acids Particularly suitable may be the use of natural oils, eg soybean oil, cottonseed oil. Sunflower, palm, palm kernel, linseed, almond, castor, corn, olive, rapeseed, sesame. Safflower oil. Wheat germ oil. Peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil and the like. Also suitable are synthetic triglyceride oils. in particular Capric / Caprylic triglycerides, e.g.
  • Dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C 2 -C 10 -alkanols in particular diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / dinutyl / dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, Di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di (2-hexyldecyl) succinate, Di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, for.
  • di-n-octyiether (Cetiol ® OE)
  • Particularly preferred oils are silicone oils and esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, especially volatile and non-volatile silicone oils from the Dow Corning 200 Fluid series and / or Dow Corning 9041, the ester oils 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, hexyldecyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate and 2-ethylhexyl laurate and / or the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched Ce-22-alkanols. in particular the commercial product Finsolv ®.
  • compositions of the invention may also be preferred for some embodiments of the compositions of the invention to use mixtures of the aforementioned oils.
  • mixtures of two types of oil components eg. as a silicone oil and an ester oil, preferably.
  • Suitable emulsifiers may be used in the compositions according to the invention, which are formulated as emulsions, preferably in an amount of 0.50-10.00% by weight, more preferably 1.00-7.50% by weight and in particular 1.50-5 , 00 wt .-% be contained in the emulsions, wherein the amounts are based on the total weight of the emulsions.
  • Particularly preferred emulsifiers may be selected from:
  • PEG-x dimethicones where x
  • PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicones (available as DC 3225 C and DC 5225 C, respectively), PEG / PPG-4/12 dimethicone (available as Abil B 8852) and bis-PEG / PPG-14/14 dimethicone (available as Abil EM 97), Bis PEG / PPG-20/20 dimethicone (available as Abil B 8832), PEG / PPG-5/3 trisiloxane (Silsoft 305), and PEG / PPG-20/23 dimethicone (Silsoft 430 and Silsoft 440).
  • emulsifiers are poly (C2-C3) alkylene glycol-modified silicones which are hydrophobically modified with Ci-Cis-alkyl groups, particularly preferably cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (formerly: Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol, available as Abil EM 90 or in a mixture of polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone and hexyl laurate under the trade name Abil WE 09), furthermore alkyl methicone copolyols and alkyl dimethicone ethoxy glucosides.
  • cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone originally: Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol, available as Abil EM 90 or in a mixture of polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone and hexyl laurate
  • saturated alcohols having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, z.
  • cetyl alcohol stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol or mixtures of these alcohols, such as those obtained in the industrial hydrogenation of vegetable and animal fatty acids,
  • propoxylated alcohols and carboxylic acids having 8-24 carbon atoms, in particular having 16-22 carbon atoms,
  • Such partial esters are z.
  • the monoglycerides of palmitic, stearic and oleic acid the sorbitan mono- and / or diesters, especially those of myristic, palmitic, stearic or mixtures of these fatty acids.
  • the technical monoesters which are obtained by esterification of 1 mole of polyol with 1 mole of fatty acid, and represent a mixture of monoester, diester, triester and optionally unesterified polyol, can be used,
  • low ethoxylated (3-5 EO) and / or propoxylated products are used, for example polyethoxylated hydrogenated or nonhydrogenated castor oil or ethoxylated cholesterol.
  • compositions according to the invention may also contain further optional constituents which give them advantageous properties.
  • Other possible ingredients include in particular: surface-active substances, for example anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, nonionic and cationic surfactants, which may be present in the compositions according to the invention (based on their total weight) in amounts of from 0.10 to 5.00% by weight, vitamins, provitamins and / or vitamin precursors , preferably those which are assigned to the groups A, B, F and H, and in particular vitamin E acetate, vitamin A-pa imitat, niacinamide, panthenol, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and / or biotin.
  • vitamins, provitamins and / or vitamin precursors may be present in the compositions according to the invention (based on their total weight) in amounts of from 0.01 to 1, 00% by weight in each case.
  • Preservatives such as benzoic acid derivatives, phenoxyethanol, octoxyglycerol, which may be contained in the compositions of the invention (based on their total weight) in amounts of from 0.01 to 2.00 wt .-%, physiologically acceptable acids and / or bases for adjusting the pH ,
  • compositions according to the invention are suitable for lightening and / or smoothing the skin and can be used accordingly.
  • the skin may be locally limited (e.g., to freckles, age spots and / or off-pigmentation, wrinkles) or treated over a large area (to brighten and / or unify the skin tone or skin surface).
  • a second object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of the cosmetic or dermatological composition according to the invention
  • compositions according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.
  • compositions have been prepared, all numerical values in the following examples, unless stated otherwise, corresponding to the amount of the respective active substance in percent by weight, based on the total weight of the composition:
  • Opuntia ficus indica extract 0, 10 to 5.00 0.20 to 4.00 0.30 to 3.00 0.40 to 2.50
  • Bambusa vulgaris extract 0.01 to 5.00 0.02 to 4.00 0.03 to 3.50 0.05 to 3.00 and / or Pisum sativum extract Hyaluronic acid, 0.01 to 20.0 0.05 to 15.0 0, 10 to 10.0 0.25 to 5.00
  • Opuntia ficus indica extract 0, 10 to 5.00 0.20 to 4.00 0.30 to 3.00 0.40 to 2.50
  • Bambusa vulgaris extract 0.01 to 5.00 0.02 to 4.00 0.03 to 3.50 0.05 to 3.00 and / or Pisum sativum extract
  • Xanthan Gum 10 to 2.00 0, 15 to 1, 50 0.20 to 1.25 0.25 to 1.00
  • Carbopol Ultrez ®3 30 0 0 10 to 2.00, from 15 to 1, 50 from 0.20 to 1, 0.25 to 1 25, 00
  • Carbopol ETD®4 2020 0, 10 to 2.00 0, 15 to 1, 50 0.20 to 1.25 0.25 to 1.00
  • Opuntia ficus indica extract 0, 10 to 5.00 0.20 to 4.00 0.30 to 3.00 0.40 to 2.50
  • Bambusa vulgaris extract 0.01 to 5.00 0.02 to 4.00 0.03 to 3.50 0.05 to 3.00 and / or Pisum sativum extract
  • Hyaluronic acid 0.01 to 20.0 0.05 to 15.0 0, 10 to 10.0 0.25 to 5.00
  • Ascorbic acid esters 0.01 to 5.00 0, 10 to 4.00 0.25 to 3.00 0.50 to 2.00
  • Opuntia ficus indica extract 0, 10 to 5.00 0.20 to 4.00 0.30 to 3.00 0.40 to 2.50 Bambusa vulgaris extract 0.01 to 5.00 0.02 to 4.00 0.03 to 3.50 0.05 to 3.00 and / or Pisum sativum extract
  • Ascorbic acid esters 0.01 to 5.00 0, 10 to 4.00 0.25 to 3.00 0.50 to 2.00
  • Opuntia ficus indica extract 0, 10 to 5.00 0.20 to 4.00 0.30 to 3.00 0.40 to 2.50
  • Bambusa vulgaris extract 0.01 to 5.00 0.02 to 4.00 0.03 to 3.50 0.05 to 3.00 and / or Pisum sativum extract
  • Hyaluronic acid 0.01 to 20.0 0.05 to 15.0 0, 10 to 10.0 0.25 to 5.00
  • Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 0.50 to 10.0 0.75 to 7.50 1, 00 to 6.00 1, 25 to 5.00
  • Opuntia ficus indica extract 0, 10 to 5.00 0.20 to 4.00 0.30 to 3.00 0.40 to 2.50
  • Bambusa vulgaris extract 0.01 to 5.00 0.02 to 4.00 0.03 to 3.50 0.05 to 3.00 and / or Pisum sativum extract
  • Hyaluronic acid 0.01 to 20.0 0.05 to 15.0 0, 10 to 10.0 0.25 to 5.00
  • hyaluronic acid salt Polysaccharide and / or 0.01 to 5.00 0.05 to 4.00 0.10 to 3.00 0.25 to 2.50 (meth) acrylic acid homo- and / or copolymer
  • Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides 0.50 to 10.0 0.75 to 7.50 1, 00 to 6.00 1, 25 to 5.00
  • Keltrol CG®9 Xanthan Gum Kelko

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Abstract

Des préparations cosmétiques ou dermatologiques contenant a) au moins un ester d'acide ascorbique, b) au moins un extrait d'opuntia ficus indica, et c) au moins autre extrait végétal choisi dans le groupe comprenant un extrait de Bambusa vulgaris et/ou un extrait de Pisum sativum, conviennent pour éclaircir la peau et/ou réduire la pigmentation de la peau et/ou homogénéiser la couleur de la peau et/ou éclaircir les taches de vieillesse et/ou les taches de rousseur et/ou stimuler la synthèse de collagène et/ou d'acide hyaluronique et/ou adoucir la surface de la peau et/ou lisser les lignes et/ou les ridules et/ou homogénéiser les irrégularités de la peau et/ou permettre l'obtention d'une peau d'aspect harmonieux.
PCT/EP2016/070282 2015-08-31 2016-08-29 Composition cosmétique ou dermatologique pour éclaircir la peau WO2017037001A1 (fr)

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DE102015216606.6A DE102015216606A1 (de) 2015-08-31 2015-08-31 Kosmetische oder dermatologische Zusammensetzung zur Hautaufhellung

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN110025502A (zh) * 2019-03-12 2019-07-19 山东省药学科学院 一种高渗玻璃酸二甲基硅烷醇复合物溶液

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1842530A1 (fr) * 2006-03-23 2007-10-10 Cognis IP Management GmbH Composition cosmetique comprenant un ester d'un sucre et d'acide gras et un extrait végétale de waltheria indica ou pisum sativum pour blanchir la peau
US20080152604A1 (en) * 2005-07-04 2008-06-26 Thomas Doering Skin-lightening compositions with an improved action
CN103830153A (zh) * 2014-03-27 2014-06-04 广东伊茗药业有限公司 一种保湿化妆品及其制备方法
DE102012222970A1 (de) * 2012-12-12 2014-06-12 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Wirkstoffkombination zur Hautaufhellung I

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20080152604A1 (en) * 2005-07-04 2008-06-26 Thomas Doering Skin-lightening compositions with an improved action
EP1842530A1 (fr) * 2006-03-23 2007-10-10 Cognis IP Management GmbH Composition cosmetique comprenant un ester d'un sucre et d'acide gras et un extrait végétale de waltheria indica ou pisum sativum pour blanchir la peau
DE102012222970A1 (de) * 2012-12-12 2014-06-12 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Wirkstoffkombination zur Hautaufhellung I
CN103830153A (zh) * 2014-03-27 2014-06-04 广东伊茗药业有限公司 一种保湿化妆品及其制备方法

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN110025502A (zh) * 2019-03-12 2019-07-19 山东省药学科学院 一种高渗玻璃酸二甲基硅烷醇复合物溶液

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