WO2016199976A1 - Composition cosmétique pour améliorer des rides de peau contenant un extrait de maackia amurensis comme principe actif, et produit cosmétique l'utilisant - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique pour améliorer des rides de peau contenant un extrait de maackia amurensis comme principe actif, et produit cosmétique l'utilisant Download PDF

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WO2016199976A1
WO2016199976A1 PCT/KR2015/007503 KR2015007503W WO2016199976A1 WO 2016199976 A1 WO2016199976 A1 WO 2016199976A1 KR 2015007503 W KR2015007503 W KR 2015007503W WO 2016199976 A1 WO2016199976 A1 WO 2016199976A1
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Prior art keywords
water
liquid crystal
weight
extract
active ingredient
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PCT/KR2015/007503
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English (en)
Korean (ko)
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김은종
성준엽
홍재화
박성하
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한국콜마주식회사
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Priority claimed from KR1020150101064A external-priority patent/KR101787583B1/ko
Application filed by 한국콜마주식회사 filed Critical 한국콜마주식회사
Publication of WO2016199976A1 publication Critical patent/WO2016199976A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/11—Encapsulated compositions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/68—Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention is Maackia Amurensis ) relates to a cosmetic composition for improving skin wrinkles containing the extract as an active ingredient and a cosmetic using the same, and more specifically, to have a structure and composition similar to the intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum of the skin to improve compatibility with the skin and water
  • a cosmetic composition for improving skin wrinkles containing the extract as an active ingredient and a cosmetic using the same and more specifically, to have a structure and composition similar to the intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum of the skin to improve compatibility with the skin and water
  • the dense lamellar non-aqueous liquid crystalline phase which does not use, encapsulates the extract of the elm tree having skin-improving effect as a water-soluble active ingredient to prevent contact with water to promote stability of the water-soluble active ingredient, It contains the thermosensitive polymer lipid on the liquid crystal to promote percutaneous absorption of water-soluble active ingredients to maximize skin penetration and increase the amount of elution.
  • ultraviolet rays are classified into UV-C at 240-280 nm, UV-B at 280-320 nm, and UV-A at 320-400 nm.
  • UV-C passes through the ozone layer and disappears without reaching the surface
  • UV-B penetrates the skin's epidermis, causing erythema, freckles, and edema
  • UV-A penetrates the dermis of the skin to form skin cancer and wrinkles. It is known to cause skin aging and skin irritation, such as promoting.
  • the skin aging is closely related to an increase in wrinkles, sagging and relaxation, and environmental factors such as physiological natural aging and UV exposure have been discussed as a cause of this phenomenon.
  • formulations of sunscreen cosmetics are oil-dispersible, ie oil-in-water (O / W) products with a continuous aqueous phase.
  • these products are weak to sweat or water, and since the sunscreen cosmetics are mainly used in an environment that is easy to be exposed to sweat or water, such as swimming, hiking, skiing or sea bathing, it is possible to block UV rays with conventional products.
  • the effect may not be sufficiently exerted, and sticking may occur when applied several times in such an environment, resulting in discomfort.
  • the conventional formulations have a disadvantage in that the UV blocking effect is shortened to less than 50% after 30 minutes or more after being applied shortly.
  • liquid crystal emulsification technology is mostly made of lamellar liquid crystals as a base material, emulsified under an appropriate condition and an emulsifier capable of forming a liquid crystal well in the form of an oleosome and one-step applied to cosmetics and petals It can be largely divided into an emulsification method to make a shape-type liquid crystal (Maltese-cross) cosmetic. These methods are in the spotlight because they are more effective than conventional emulsions or liposomes for encapsulating relatively unstable active ingredients.
  • Korean Patent No. 638602 stabilizes oil-soluble licorice through cosmetics in water-in-oil multi-emulsion-type emulsions using polyprotose-based polymer emulsifiers modified into a lipophilic type, and a preparation method thereof
  • Korean Patent No. 638170 No. 2 discloses an oil phase liquid crystal composition containing a gemini-based surfactant for promoting transdermal absorption, and a method of preparing a whitening cosmetic therefrom.
  • Korean Patent No. 715309 discloses dissolving ursolic acid and a gemini-type surfactant. A skin wrinkle improvement cosmetic containing and a manufacturing method thereof are disclosed.
  • the structure of the liquid crystal film and the degree of similarity between the intercellular lipid components of the substances forming the film are not only stabilized in the active ingredient, but also very effective for obtaining a desirable effect for efficient skin transfer of the encapsulated usefulness and water-soluble active ingredient. It is an important factor.
  • Korean Patent No. 530880 a nanosize phospholipid liposome cosmetic and a method for preparing the same are reported.
  • Korean Patent No. 553160 a nano-sized phospholipid liposome composition including coenzyme Q10 and a method for manufacturing the same
  • Korean Patent No.654841 The present invention discloses a lipid dissolving part composition having a skin-like structure and composition and promoting transdermal absorption of a physiologically active substance and a method for producing a nanoparticle cosmetic using the same.
  • Republic of Korea Patent No. 715311 has been reported a study on the improvement of percutaneous absorption and stabilizing ursolic acid cosmetics and its manufacturing method.
  • the selection of suitable lipids is important for forming lamellar liquid crystals.
  • the material of the polar solvent layer formed between the lamellar layers has an important effect on the stability of the active substance and its delivery to the skin.
  • the structure has a multi-layer lamellar structure similar to the intercellular lipid, but the type of lipid mainly consists of chemically synthesized emulsifiers and fatty acids, etc.
  • the type of lipid mainly consists of chemically synthesized emulsifiers and fatty acids, etc.
  • composition and composition it was more stable than general emulsified products when applied to cosmetics, but was not very effective in terms of skin transfer of active ingredients.
  • the polar solvent layer is mostly made of water (H 2 O), and when water and active substance contact, especially high polar retinol and its derivatives, coenzyme Q10, vitamin C and its derivatives, tocopherol and When the derivative or the like comes into contact with water, it is oxidized to lower the active titer, resulting in discoloration, discoloration, and separation of the formulation.
  • the process is complicated even when applying the lamellar liquid crystal to the cosmetics, the cosmetics containing the active material unstable due to contact with the water is not good stability, even in the case of making the interface liquid crystal in one step emulsification conditions including the emulsification temperature This is very demanding, often with difficulty in scale-up. As a result, a problem arises in that the scope of application is limited to high viscosity lotions or creams, and improvement is required for easier and general purpose application.
  • the present inventors have consistent results, vary tree (Maackia amurensis) extract causing the MMP-1 activity of collagen degradation enzymes of ultraviolet A recovery efficiency is excellent and wrinkle formation caused by UV light to the effective active efficacy of plant materials family Inhibition is found and encapsulated with a water-soluble active ingredient in a highly dense lamellar non-aqueous liquid crystal phase to prevent contact with water to promote stability of the water-soluble active ingredient, and a thermosensitive polymer lipid on the non-aqueous liquid crystal phase. It contains a water-soluble active ingredient to promote percutaneous absorption and maximize skin penetration to increase the amount of elution, thereby confirming the improvement effect on the skin wrinkles caused by ultraviolet light, the present invention was completed.
  • Another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic for improving skin wrinkles caused by UV light by encapsulating the extract of Elm in a dense lamellar non-aqueous liquid crystal phase, optimizing percutaneous absorption and eluting amount of the extract.
  • the present invention is the Maackia Amurensis ) provides a cosmetic composition for improving skin wrinkles containing the extract as an active ingredient.
  • the extract of the elm tree is a one or a mixture thereof selected from the group consisting of stems, leaves, fruits, roots and outposts of the elm tree.
  • the cosmetic composition for skin wrinkle improvement of the present invention is that the extract of the elm tree is encapsulated with a water-soluble active ingredient in a lamellar non-aqueous liquid crystal phase, more specifically, the cosmetic composition for skin wrinkle improvement of the present invention 10 to 60% by weight of water-soluble polar solvent except water, 0.1 to 10% by weight of ceramide, 0.05 to 5% by weight of cholesterol, 1 to 40% by weight of phospholipids, 0.5 to 7% by weight of higher alcohols having 16 to 22 carbon atoms, represented by Chemical Formula 1 Liquid crystal lipid portion comprising 0.1 to 1% by weight of temperature-sensitive polymer lipids (Lipid-conjugated Pluronic);
  • Oil-soluble active substance portion comprising 0.5 to 20% by weight of oil, 0.1 to 10% by weight of oil-soluble active ingredient and 0.01 to 0.5% by weight of oil-soluble antioxidant;
  • It consists of a water-soluble active material portion including 3.0 to 30% by weight of water-soluble polar solvent, and water from 0.0025 to 0.5% by weight of the extract of the elm.
  • the temperature sensitive polymer lipid used in the liquid crystal lipid part is a compound represented by the following Chemical Formula 1.
  • R is selected from the group consisting of ceramide, lecithin, phosphatidylcholine, phytosphingosine and fatty acids, which may or may not be identical at both ends, l is 92-102, m is 60-70, n Is 95 to 105.
  • the water-soluble polar solvent in the liquid crystal lipid portion and the water-soluble active substance portion is ethylene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, 1,2- Phentanediol, D-panthenol, propylene glycol, diglycerin and diethoxyethyl succinate are used alone or in combination of two or more thereof, except water.
  • the present invention is applied to the cosmetic composition encapsulated on a lamellar non-aqueous liquid crystal as a water-soluble active ingredient to the water phase to provide a cosmetic for improving skin wrinkles due to ultraviolet rays of the oil dispersion (O / W) formulation.
  • Lamellar non-aqueous liquid crystalline capsule base containing the extract of the elm is a cosmetic composition applied to the water phase in the continuous phase, the temperature-sensitive polymer lipid represented by the formula (1) promotes the transfer effect of the water-soluble active ingredient of the elm extract It is to provide a cosmetic composition provided with the effect of improving wrinkles due to the active ingredient.
  • the cosmetic composition may be applied to a basic cosmetic consisting of a skin, lotion, essence, cream, pack, patch and cleansing: or a color cosmetic consisting of a makeup base, foundation, sun cream and lip gloss.
  • the present invention is to verify the activity of MMP-1 collagen degrading enzyme that is excellent in UV A recovery effect and causes wrinkles caused by ultraviolet rays in the plant material group, thereby providing a cosmetic composition containing the same as an active ingredient can do.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention is encapsulated as a water-soluble active ingredient in a lamellar non-aqueous liquid crystal phase to promote percutaneous absorption of the extract of the elm tree and maximize the penetration of the skin, thereby eluting the amount of elution.
  • composition encapsulated on the lamella-type non-aqueous liquid crystal to the water phase in the continuous phase, it is possible to provide a cosmetic composition for improving skin wrinkles that can be applied from a low viscosity skin to a high viscosity cream.
  • Figure 1 shows the results of inhibition of MMP-1 collagen degrading enzyme activity of the stem extract of the present invention
  • FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of the structure of a lamellar non-aqueous liquid crystalline capsule base material of the present invention
  • TEM 4 is a measurement photograph of a transmission electron microscopy (TEM) of the lamellar non-aqueous liquid crystalline capsule base composition prepared in Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Example 2 according to the present invention.
  • TEM transmission electron microscopy
  • Example 5 is a photograph of a polarizing microscope after the lamellar non-aqueous liquid crystalline capsule base composition prepared in Examples 1-2 and Comparative Example 2 according to the present invention is dispersed in water.
  • the present invention is Maackia Amurensis ) provides a cosmetic composition for improving skin wrinkles containing the extract as an active ingredient.
  • the cosmetic composition for improving skin wrinkles of the present invention is encapsulated with the water-soluble active ingredient in the lamellae non-aqueous liquid crystal phase, more specifically,
  • Oil-soluble active substance portion comprising 0.5 to 20% by weight of oil, 0.1 to 10% by weight of oil-soluble active ingredient and 0.01 to 0.5% by weight of oil-soluble antioxidant;
  • It consists of a water-soluble active material portion including 3.0 to 30% by weight of water-soluble polar solvent, and water from 0.0025 to 0.5% by weight of the extract of the elm.
  • composition-specific features of the cosmetic composition of the present invention are described.
  • the liquid crystal lipid part of the present invention contains a temperature sensitive polymer lipid (Lipid-conjugated Pluronic) exhibiting temperature sensitivity at 32 to 37 ° C., which is the skin temperature represented by the following Chemical Formula 1.
  • a temperature sensitive polymer lipid Lipid-conjugated Pluronic
  • R is selected from the group consisting of ceramide, lecithin, phosphatidylcholine, phytosphingosine and fatty acids, both terminals may or may not be the same, l is 92-102, m is 60-70, n is 95 to 105.
  • the temperature-sensitive polymer lipids in which both ends are substituted with ceramide can be substituted by the above-described substituent.
  • lipids such as ceramide, lecithin, phosphatidylcolin, and phytosphingosine bound to both ends of the temperature sensitive polymer are easily adsorbed and wetted because they are similar to skin phospholipids. Maximizing the phenomenon, due to the effect of the temperature-sensitive polymer lipid condensed in the nanoparticle wall at the skin temperature of 32 to 37 °C to increase the pressure, by increasing the penetration (Penetrating) phenomenon to improve the skin penetration efficiency of the water-soluble active ingredient.
  • the temperature-sensitive polymer lipids in the lipid concentration portion of the present invention by maximizing the skin penetration of the water-soluble active ingredient that is not easy to transdermal absorption into the skin, it promotes transepidermal absorption to have a water-soluble active ingredient Double your efficacy. Furthermore, the maintenance and stability of the concentrated capsules are doubled to allow sufficient amounts to be used in various kinds of cosmetic compositions.
  • the preferred content of the temperature-sensitive polymer lipids (Lipid-conjugated Pluronic) contained in the liquid crystal lipid portion of the present invention is 0.1 to 1% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, if less than 0.1% by weight, the temperature-sensitive polymer lipids It is not preferable because it does not help the transdermal absorption of the drug, and if it exceeds 1% by weight, there is a problem in stability at high temperatures.
  • Figure 2 shows a schematic diagram of the lamellar non-aqueous liquid crystalline capsule base structure of the present invention similar to the lipid structure of the actual human skin.
  • active ingredients exhibiting activity such as moisturizing, whitening, and anti-aging in cosmetics are mostly highly polar, and in the case of oil-soluble active ingredients, various ingredients such as temperature and light may be used even in the stability of the raw materials themselves (active titer, discoloration, and odor). Although it becomes unstable during storage by the factor and dissolves in oil, it is rapidly promoted due to interaction with water molecules when applied to cosmetics.
  • the stability of the raw material itself is relatively excellent, but when dissolved in water, the stability is drastically lowered.
  • the lamellar non-aqueous liquid crystalline capsule base composition of the present invention does not use water, but properly dissolves lipids and water-soluble active ingredients using a low molecular polar solvent except water to form a polar layer of a lamellar liquid crystal to form water molecules. Discoloration, odor, and reverse degradation caused by contact with can be prevented.
  • the water-soluble polar solvent used in the lamellar non-aqueous liquid crystalline capsule base composition of the present invention is ethylene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, 1,2-pentanediol, D-panthenol, dipropylene It is single or a mixture of two or more thereof selected from the group consisting of glycol, diglycerin and diethoxyethyl succinate, except water.
  • the water-soluble polar solvent used in the liquid crystal lipid part of the present invention contains 10 to 60% by weight, but less than 10% by weight, after dissolution of the used lipids and formation of liquid crystal, desorption of the lipids occurs and 60% by weight If exceeded, the volume of the polar layer becomes excessively large, and there is a problem in the stability of the active ingredient encapsulated when applied to the actual cosmetics.
  • intercellular lipid (Intercellular) Ceramide and cholesterol having a structure and composition similar to lipids
  • phospholipids are used as the main base
  • higher alcohols having 16 to 22 carbon atoms are used to increase the density of the lamellar non-aqueous liquid crystal phase. It forms a dense structure.
  • Ceramide used in the liquid crystal lipid part of the present invention is a main component of the intercellular lipid of the skin, and the non-aqueous liquid crystal has similarity with the skin, and plays an important role in delivering water-soluble and oil-soluble active ingredients to the skin and restoring the damaged skin barrier. Do it. At this time, when the ceramide is contained in less than 0.1% by weight, there is too much difference in the similarity between the composition and structure of the intercellular lipid, and the effect of transferring the active ingredient to the skin or restoring the damaged skin barrier, and vice versa If it exceeds 10% by weight, it is virtually impossible to dissolve in polar solvents and phospholipids, resulting in a problem of recrystallization of undissolved ones.
  • Cholesterol constituting the liquid crystal lipid portion as other components are contained in the 0.05 to 5% by weight, which gives the liquidity of the liquid crystal formed of hard lipids such as the ceramide and phospholipid to help the formation of liquid crystal, and also intercellular paper such as ceramide
  • the non-aqueous liquid crystal has a similarity with the skin and plays an important role in delivering the active ingredient to the skin. If the cholesterol content is less than 0.05% by weight, the active ingredient delivery is not as smooth as in the case of ceramide, and when the content exceeds 5% by weight, in fact, the irregularity and bulky structure of the cholesterol itself damages the density of the liquid crystal. This hinders the stability of the liquid crystal.
  • Phospholipid which is the base composition of the liquid crystal lipid part of the present invention, is a substance in which a highly polar functional group, such as one phosphate group, and two fatty acids having various chain lengths and chain structures are combined, and have a unique multi-orientation. It is easy to form a dense lamellar liquid crystal phase due to its orientation, and has excellent compatibility with ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids, which are important intercellular lipids important for active ingredient delivery and skin barrier.
  • the phospholipid can be used in both saturated and unsaturated type, and the phospholipid is preferably phosphatidylcholin, phosphadidylethanolamine, phosphatidyl inositol, or phosphatidylserine. It may be selected from the group consisting of (Phosphatidylserine) and mixtures of two or more thereof, and more preferably 16 to 30 chain lengths of fatty acids attached to the above-mentioned phosphate group. If the chain length of fatty acids is less than 16, the chain is too short to form a highly dense lamellar non-aqueous liquid crystalline phase. On the contrary, if more than 30 chains are used, the length of the fatty acid is important for liquid crystal formation.
  • the higher alcohol constituting the liquid crystal lipid portion is a unique orientation regularity (Orientation regularity) in the present invention does not use water to function as a material that improves the regularity and density of the liquid crystal, the higher alcohol in the art It may be selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, batyl alcohol, and a mixture of two or more thereof.
  • the capsule-based composition made by the present technology is very strong like the intercellular lipids of the skin when applied to cosmetics, where the continuous phase is composed of 'water', so that the usefulness and water-soluble active ingredients encapsulated inside It improves stability by avoiding contact with water molecules in the continuous phase, and also has excellent affinity with intercellular lipids, so it has an excellent effect of delivering active ingredients, and supplements intercellular lipids after delivery of active ingredients to function as a skin barrier. It can also improve the effect.
  • the oil-soluble active ingredient constituting the oil-soluble active substance portion is oil-soluble, and has excellent effects such as whitening, wrinkles, anti-aging, and the like.
  • the preferred content of the oil-soluble active ingredient is 0.1 to 10% by weight, if the content is less than 0.1% by weight, not only the liquid crystal itself due to the low concentration, it can not obtain the desired skin improvement effect when applied to cosmetics, If it exceeds 10% by weight, the liquid crystal structure is destroyed to stably encapsulate in the non-aqueous liquid crystal and there is a problem that it is difficult to apply to the cosmetic.
  • Antioxidant constituting the oil-soluble active material portion including the oil-soluble active ingredient and other water-soluble active ingredients contained in the oil-soluble active material portion to prevent oxidation of the entire capsule base composition according to the present invention, in particular to maintain the activity of the active ingredient for a long time And increase the storage stability of the product.
  • the antioxidant may be selected from the group consisting of tocopherol and its derivatives, butylated hydroxytoluene, benzophenones, octylmethoxycinnamate, octylsalicylate or mixtures of two or more thereof.
  • the antioxidant is preferably contained in 0.01 to 0.5% by weight, if the antioxidant is contained in less than 0.01% by weight, when the non-aqueous liquid crystal manufacturing, there is a problem that can lose its active titer in the heating process, 0.5 If the weight percentage is exceeded, discoloration and odor may occur due to excessive use.
  • the oil used in the oil-soluble active material portion is a polar or non-polar oil, which is excellent in dissolution of oil-soluble active ingredients and compatibility with the lipophilic portion of the liquid crystal lipid portion. It serves as a substrate to facilitate loading in the liquid crystal.
  • the oil is contained in an amount of 0.5 to 20% by weight in a range that does not interfere with the formation of a lamellar non-aqueous liquid crystal phase depending on the amount of the oil-soluble active ingredient, and as a non-polar oil, animal and vegetable squalane, mineral oil, isohexadecane; Glyceryl trioctanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isostearyl isostearate, dicapryl carbonate, neopentylene glycol diheptanoate, cetearyl isonanoate, cetearyl octanoate as polar oils , Capric / caprylic triglyceride, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, octyl palmitate or a mixture of two or more thereof.
  • oil-soluble active ingredient If the oil is used in less than 0.5% by weight, there may be a problem in dissolving the oil-soluble active ingredient, if the oil exceeds 20% by weight, over time due to the formation of excessive lipophilic layer in the non-aqueous liquid crystal As the oil-soluble active ingredient is detached, its stability is worsened.
  • the water extract contains an elm tree extract as an active ingredient.
  • Elm Maackia amurensis
  • Maackia amurensis
  • the extract of the tree of the present invention is a single or mixed component selected from the group consisting of stems, leaves, berries, roots and outposts of the elm tree is extracted by the extraction solvent, more preferably includes leaves, stems and berries It may be selected from the group to be selected, and most preferably from the leaf or stem.
  • the methanol extract of the stem of the most preferred example but will not be limited thereto.
  • Figure 1 shows the results of inhibiting MMP-1 collagen degrading enzyme activity of the stem extract of the present invention, showing the results of inhibition of MMP-1 collagen degrading enzyme depending on the concentration in the stem extract [Table 3 ], It was prescribed as a nutritional cream formulation and applied to the actual skin to check whether the wrinkles were improved.In the case of the stem extract of Tul, the skin elasticity increased dramatically after 12 weeks and the area of the wrinkles decreased with time. By confirming [Table 4], the cosmetic composition effective for skin wrinkle improvement containing this can be provided.
  • the extract of the elm tree may be obtained using various extraction methods known in the art, and preferably, (a) water, (b) anhydrous or water-containing 1-4 carbon atoms.
  • Lower alcohols methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol, etc.
  • a mixed solvent of the lower alcohols with water (d) acetone, (e) ethyl acetate, (f) chloroform, (g) methylene chloride or (h ) 1,3-butylene glycol can be obtained as an extraction solvent. More preferably, it extracts using methanol and ethanol aqueous solution, Most preferably, it can extract using methanol aqueous solution.
  • the alcohol-based extraction solvent containing methanol may be used without particular limitation on the purity, but preferably 80 to 99.5% methanol and 70 to 80% ethanol.
  • the content of the elm tree extract may be 0.0025 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably 0.0025 to 0.1% by weight, most preferably 0.0025 to 0.01% by weight.
  • the content of the extract of the elm tree in the composition of the present invention is less than 0.0025% by weight, there is a problem that the effect of the invention as a skin wrinkle improvement cosmetics can not be sufficiently obtained, and when the content exceeds 0.5% by weight, it shows the saturation of the effect and the efficiency of content There is this decreasing problem.
  • water-soluble polar solvents other than water include ethylene glycol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, 1,2-pentanediol, D-panthenol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerin and die Preference is given to using alone or a mixture of two or more thereof selected from the group consisting of oxyethylsuccinate.
  • the lamellar non-aqueous liquid crystalline capsule base composition having a skin lipid-like membrane of the present invention contains a thermosensitive polymer lipid on the non-aqueous liquid crystalline phase, thereby promoting percutaneous absorption of the water-soluble active ingredient and maximizing skin penetration. It is characterized by doubling the efficacy of.
  • the present invention provides a cosmetic composition for improving skin wrinkles containing the lamella-type non-aqueous liquid crystalline capsule base composition containing the elm tree extract as an active ingredient due to the UV-A recovery effect of the water-soluble active ingredient of the elm tree extract. do.
  • the prepared water-soluble active material part is added to the primary liquid crystal part at 55 to 65 ° C., stirred with a conventional stirrer, and homogenized to be water-soluble through a swelling process in a hydrophilic region of the liquid crystal lipid part. Preparing a secondary liquid crystal part encapsulating the active material; And
  • the secondary liquid crystal part is gradually cooled to 30 to 40 ° C. to solidify lipid chains, thereby making it useful for multi-layers of regular Lamella type non-aqueous liquid crystal phases. It consists of; secondary liquid crystal stabilizing step to stabilize the water-soluble active ingredients.
  • liquid crystal lipid portion Oil-soluble active substance; and since the description of the components used in the water-soluble active substance and the content thereof is the same as described above, a detailed description thereof will be omitted.
  • the heating temperature in the liquid crystal lipid portion preparation step of (1) is less than 75 ° C., dissolution of lipids in the liquid crystal lipid portion used is not easy, whereas if it exceeds 85 ° C., oxidation and discoloration of the lipids may occur. Generate.
  • the primary cooling step of (2) consists of cooling the liquid crystal lipid part to 55 to 65 ° C. which is a temperature near the phase transition point. If the cooling temperature is less than 55 °C, there is a problem that the liquid crystal structure is irregular by cooling too much below the phase transition point, and if it exceeds 65 °C, even lipid orientation is not made due to insufficient stirring.
  • the oil-soluble active material part preparation step of (3) and the water-soluble active material part preparation step of (4) consist of dissolving by heating to 50 to 60 °C. If the heating temperature is less than 50 ° C. in the preparation of the oil-soluble active material part of (3) and the preparation of the water-soluble active material part of (4) above, the active material is not dissolved well. The titer of the active substance is inhibited.
  • the prepared oil-soluble active material part is added to the prepared liquid crystal lipid part at 55 to 65 ° C., stirred with a conventional stirrer, and homogenized to form a lipophilic part of the liquid crystal lipid part (Hydrophobic region, Encapsulating the oil soluble active substance in region A).
  • the prepared water-soluble active material part is added to the primary liquid crystal part at 55 to 65 ° C., stirred with a conventional stirrer, and homogenized to form a hydrophilic region of the liquid crystal lipid part. It consists of encapsulating a water-soluble active substance through swelling process.
  • the preparation of the first liquid crystal part of step (5) and the preparation of the second liquid crystal part of step (6) are preferably performed at a temperature range of 55 to 65 ° C., when the temperature is lower than the temperature, the active ingredient is smoothly stabilized into the liquid crystal. It is difficult, and if it is higher than the above temperature, the stability itself of the active ingredient deteriorates at high temperature.
  • the secondary liquid crystal part In the stabilizing of the secondary liquid crystal part of (7), the secondary liquid crystal part is gradually cooled to 30 to 40 ° C. to solidify the lipid chains, thereby regular lamellar non-aqueous liquid crystal phase. It consists in stabilizing the oil soluble and water soluble active ingredients in a multi-layer.
  • the cooling temperature is gradually cooled, but stabilized by cooling to 30 to 40 ° C. according to the amount of lipid used and the chain solidification temperature according to the active material.
  • the already solidified chains are deformed by shear stress, thereby inhibiting stability.
  • the temperature is exceeded, the solidification of the chains is not sufficiently achieved, so that some of the active materials are desorbed, thereby lowering the stability of the formulation.
  • the present invention provides a cosmetic composition in which the lamella-type non-aqueous liquid crystalline capsule base composition of the skin lipid-like membrane in which the active ingredient penetration effect is promoted is applied to a cosmetic whose continuous phase is an aqueous phase.
  • the lamellar non-aqueous liquid crystalline capsule base composition of the skin lipid-like film of the present invention When applied to a cosmetic whose continuous phase is an aqueous phase, it forms a uniform petal-shaped interfacial liquid crystalline phase of about 1 to 3 ⁇ m [Fig. 5]. Since water is not present in the interfacial liquid crystal phase, it is useful for stabilizing a water-soluble active ingredient that is unstable in contact with water.
  • the lamellar non-aqueous liquid crystalline capsule base composition having a skin lipid-like membrane of the present invention contains a temperature-sensitive polymer lipid on the non-aqueous liquid crystalline phase, thereby promoting percutaneous absorption of the extract of elm tree, which is a water-soluble active ingredient, to maximize skin penetration.
  • elm tree which is a water-soluble active ingredient
  • the cosmetic composition is a skin, lotion, essence, creams, packs, patches and cleansing base cosmetics: or makeup base, foundation, sun cream and lip gloss cosmetics; can be extended to apply.
  • the liquid crystal phase has a high affinity with a similar structure and composition of intercellular lipids, and in particular, due to the inclusion of temperature-sensitive polymer lipids (lipid crosslinking poloxamer), it is possible to improve the efficiency of the active ingredient transfer, after the skin delivery of the active ingredient
  • the remaining lipids can be damaged or supplemented with defective intercellular lipids to restore the skin barrier, alleviating the symptoms of arid or atopic dermatitis.
  • the stem and 99.5% methanol were added in a 1:20 ratio and extracted three times for three days, followed by 380 mesh filtration and filtration with a 0.45 ⁇ m membrane filter.
  • the filtrate was concentrated under reduced pressure at 40 ° C. in a distillation apparatus equipped with a cooling condenser and then evaporated under reduced pressure to obtain a concentrate.
  • the obtained concentrate was lyophilized to give a dried product.
  • Example 1 Except for using the fruit of the tree, the same procedure as in Example 1 above, to obtain a concentrate and lyophilized.
  • Example 2 Except for using the roots of the tree, the same procedure as in Example 1 was carried out to obtain a concentrate and lyophilized.
  • Example 2 The same procedure was followed as in Example 1, except that the elm tree outpost was used to obtain a concentrate and lyophilized.
  • Example 2 Except for using 94% ethanol as the extraction solvent, it was carried out in the same manner as in Example 1 to obtain a concentrate and lyophilized.
  • the stem and 30% butylene glycol were added in a 1:20 ratio and extracted for 5 days, filtered through 380 mesh, filtered with a paper filter at 11 ⁇ m, and filtered with a 0.45 ⁇ m membrane filter to obtain an extract.
  • Human fibroblasts were cultured in 37, CO 2 incubators to determine the cytotoxicity of the extracts of the different parts of the trees prepared in Preparation Examples 1-5. After incubation, each of the extracts were treated with different concentrations and further cultured under the same culture conditions. After incubation, add MTT ⁇ 3- (4,5-Dimethylthiazol-2-yl) -2,5-Diphenyltetrazolium Bromide ⁇ solution, incubate, remove the culture solution, add DMSO (Dimethyl sulfoxide), and shake well. Absorbance was measured using a microplate reader, and the values are shown in Table 1 . Here, the control in the cytotoxicity test means a blank without the extract.
  • Human fibroblasts were cultured in 37, CO 2 incubators to examine the UV-recovering effect of the extract of the elm tree with respect to the extracts of the parts of the elm tree prepared in Preparation Examples 1-5. Thereafter, the culture solution was removed and washed with PBS (Phosphate buffered saline), PBS was added, UV irradiation was performed using an UV irradiator system, and each of the extracts of the elm tree was treated for each concentration. Incubated at. After incubation, MTT solution was added to the wells and incubated at 37. After that, the culture solution was removed, DMSO (dimethyl sulfoxide) was added thereto, and shaken appropriately.
  • PBS Phosphate buffered saline
  • UV irradiation was performed using an UV irradiator system
  • MTT solution was added to the wells and incubated at 37. After that, the culture solution was removed, DMSO (
  • the culture solution of human fibroblasts cultured in an incubator was removed and washed with PBS (Phosphate buffered saline), and then PBS was added again and irradiated with UVA using a UV irradiator system.
  • PBS Phosphate buffered saline
  • the stem extracts were treated for each concentration and incubated under the same culture conditions, cells were collected and centrifuged to remove the supernatant.
  • the pellet was suspended in Pro-PREP TM Solution (Intron), centrifuged again at high speed, and the supernatant was collected to obtain protein of cells.
  • the samples were subjected to electrophoresis experiments with markers to perform Western blot. After completion, the gel was separated and the protein was transferred to the membrane.
  • MMP-1 Mestrix metalloproteinase 1
  • Actin Santacruz
  • TBS Tris buffered saline
  • Tween 20 Tris buffered saline
  • washing was performed.
  • the secondary antibody was treated, and a band of protein was identified using a Chemiluminescent horseradish peroxidase substrate (Immobilon, Millipore) and using a Chemidoc (Atto corporation) instrument and a CS Analyzer (Atto corporation) image analysis software.
  • 10 ⁇ M concentration of epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) was used as a positive control to compare the test results.
  • the results of measuring the MMP-1 inhibitory effect of the stem extract of Elm tree are as shown in Figure 1 and Table 3 .
  • the stem extract of T. japonicum showed a significant concentration-dependent inhibition of MMP-1 collagen degrading enzyme, which causes wrinkle formation by UV rays, and wrinkles than the control group at 5 ⁇ g / ml treatment. It was confirmed that the improvement effect was excellent.
  • the elm tree extract of the present invention has an anti-wrinkle effect, in particular the extract of the stem of the tree showed a remarkably excellent anti-wrinkle effect.
  • the present invention will also provide a cosmetic composition for improving wrinkles, the cosmetic composition containing the extract of the elm is also preserved wrinkle improvement efficacy.
  • the cosmetic composition as a formulation having an anti-wrinkle effect by containing the extract of the elm tree in each cosmetic formulation, the prescription example is as follows.
  • the extract used the stem extract of the production example 1 of the most excellent inhibitory effect of the production of collagen degrading enzymes in skin cells.
  • Elm Extract is Lamellar Non-aqueous Preparation of a cosmetic composition containing a liquid crystalline crude Dangerous capsule base
  • non-aqueous liquid crystalline capsule base composition having a skin-like film according to the composition shown in Table 5, the manufacturing method is as follows.
  • the liquid crystal lipid part was added to the content shown in Table 5 and heated to 78 to dissolve it, and then cooled to 60 to prepare it first. It was prepared by heating to dissolve, and prepared by dissolving by heating to 60 by adding a water-soluble active substance to the content shown in Table 5 in a separate dissolution tank.
  • the above-mentioned useful active material part was added to the dissolution tank containing the liquid crystal lipid part at 60, and stirred for 10 minutes at a speed of 1,000 rpm using an agitator to make a primary liquid crystal part.
  • a water-soluble active material part was added and stirred for 10 minutes at a speed of 1,000 rpm using a stirrer to make a secondary liquid crystal part.
  • a non-aqueous liquid crystalline capsule base composition was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1, except that the composition was as shown in Table 5, and the skin-like film was used.
  • Comparative Example 1 containing 0.0001 parts by weight of the stem extract of the larch was observed by the content of the UV recovery efficacy is lower than the reference value, as in Comparative Examples 2 to 4, the amount of each stem extract When it contained in excess of the above-mentioned content, the density and uniformity of the liquid crystal were very poor, and it was difficult to see it as a lamellae liquid crystal, and the extract of the elm tree was not completely stabilized and separated in one week at storage temperature.
  • Comparative Example 5 did not contain the stem extract, the effect was deteriorated, and in order to observe the effect of liquid crystal formation, instead of the extract of the elm, it was observed by adding adenosine. As a result, it was good in terms of liquid crystal formation and stability, but was poor in terms of dissolution of the active ingredient.
  • Lamellar ratios prepared in Examples 1, 3 and Comparative Example 2 of the cosmetic compositions contained in the lamellae type non-aqueous liquid crystalline capsule base material of the elm extract prepared in Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 About the aqueous liquid crystalline capsule base composition, it observed using the polarizing microscope which can observe a liquid crystal.
  • Figure 3 is a photographic result observed with a polarizing microscope of the lamellar non-aqueous liquid crystalline capsule base composition prepared in Examples 1 and 3 and Comparative Example 2 according to the present invention, there is a difference in the density of the liquid crystal, but the comparison In contrast to Example 2, in Example 1 and Example 3, high density sheet-like light emission due to birefringence of lamellar liquid crystals was confirmed.
  • Figure 4 is a transmission electron microscopy (TEM, Measurement Electron Microscopy) of the lamellar non-aqueous liquid crystalline capsule base composition prepared in Examples 1 and 3 and Comparative Example 2 according to the present invention, a multi-lamellar phase The fine structure of the liquid crystal could be confirmed.
  • TEM Transmission electron microscopy
  • FIG. 5 is a spherical interfacial liquid crystal in which a highly dense sheet-like lamellar liquid crystal phase is petal-cross as a photographic result of a polarizing microscope after dispersing a lamellar non-aqueous liquid crystalline capsule base composition according to the present invention in water. This uniform formation supports that the oil-soluble and water-soluble active ingredients encapsulated therein remain stable.
  • compositions of Examples 1 and 3 the stability evaluation of the liquid crystal itself, that is, 45 (high temperature), 5 (low temperature), cyclic experiment (circulation temperature -5 (6 hours), 0 (6 hours), 25 (6 hours) The stability of the liquid crystal itself was confirmed by confirming dense and uniform liquid crystal retention for 3 months under all temperature conditions of (), 40 (6 hours)) and 25 (room temperature).
  • Example 1 The composition prepared in Example 1 and Comparative Examples 2 to 4 of the composition was dispersed and diluted in water, and the titration preservation experiments were carried out on the extracts of Elm trees over time, and the results are shown in Table 6 below.
  • Sample 1 prepared by diluting the composition of Example 1 was confirmed the density and uniformity of the lamellar sheet-like liquid crystal.
  • the multilayer was thinned after 2 months, but was maintained at 90% even after 45 to 2 months, and maintained at 96% even after 12 months at room temperature.
  • the non-aqueous liquid crystalline capsule base composition having the skin-like film can be applied to water in a continuous phase, thereby confirming the possibility of expansion from a base and color cosmetics, that is, from a low viscosity skin to a high viscosity cream and an emulsified color cosmetic.
  • the samples 2, 3 and 4 in which the phase separation occurred in Table 2 were very unstable due to the potency integrity of almost 35% after 45 to 1 month and less than 65% at room temperature compared to the initial dose.
  • the present invention by confirming the inhibition of the activity of MMP-1 collagen degrading enzymes that cause wrinkles caused by UV and UV recovery effect of the extract of the elm tree in the plant material group, containing it as an active ingredient Provided was a cosmetic composition for improving skin wrinkles.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention provides a composition in which the extract of the elm tree is encapsulated as a water-soluble active ingredient in a multilayer lamellar non-aqueous liquid crystal phase without using water, thereby obtaining a high density sheet due to the birefringence phenomenon of the lamellar liquid crystal ( Sheet type light emission can be confirmed, and even when dispersed in water, the stability of the water-soluble active ingredient encapsulated inside was provided.
  • the problem of discoloration, discoloration, and lowering of the contact with water has been solved.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention is an interfacial liquid crystal particle having a skin analogue membrane structure and composition by simple agitation when applying the lamellar non-aqueous liquid crystalline capsule base of the skin lipid-like membrane to the cosmetic by the concentration of a desired active ingredient. You can get it easily.
  • the present invention can be applied to the cosmetic composition contained in the lamellae non-aqueous liquid crystalline capsule base material to the continuous water phase by simple stirring, thereby providing a very stable cosmetic to block contact with water, It can be extended from skin of the figure to high-viscosity cream and emulsified color cosmetics.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique pour améliorer des rides de peau contenant un extrait de Maackia amurensis comme principe actif, et une matière cosmétique l'utilisant. La présente invention encapsule un extrait de Maackia amurensis présentant une efficacité d'amélioration de rides de peau en tant que principe actif soluble dans l'eau, dans une phase cristalline liquide non-aqueuse lamellaire très dense qui est conçue pour avoir une structure et une composition similaires en tant que lipide intercellulaire de la couche cornée, ce qui permet d'éviter un contact avec l'eau pour favoriser la stabilité du principe actif soluble dans l'eau. La présente invention contient un lipide polymère sensible à une température dans une phase cristalline liquide non-aqueuse, ce qui permet de favoriser l'absorption percutanée du principe actif soluble dans l'eau pour maximiser la pénétration dans la peau et augmenter le volume d'élution et, de ce fait, peut doubler l'efficacité d'amélioration de rides de peau par l'efficacité de récupération d'ultraviolet A à partir de l'extrait de Maackia amurensis. En outre, lorsque la composition cosmétique, dans laquelle l'extrait de Maackia amurensis est contenu dans une base de capsule de phase cristalline liquide non-aqueuse lamellaire, est appliquée à une phase d'eau qui est une phase continue par simple agitation, la composition cosmétique peut fournir une matière cosmétique hautement stable pour bloquer un contact avec l'eau. Ainsi, la composition cosmétique peut aller d'une lotion de peau ayant une faible viscosité à une crème extrêmement visqueuse et un produit cosmétique coloré émulsifié.
PCT/KR2015/007503 2015-06-09 2015-07-20 Composition cosmétique pour améliorer des rides de peau contenant un extrait de maackia amurensis comme principe actif, et produit cosmétique l'utilisant WO2016199976A1 (fr)

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KR20150081328 2015-06-09
KR10-2015-0081328 2015-06-09
KR10-2015-0101064 2015-07-16
KR1020150101064A KR101787583B1 (ko) 2015-06-09 2015-07-16 다릅나무 추출물을 유효성분으로 함유한 피부주름개선용 화장료 조성물 및 그를 이용한 화장료

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EP3443949A1 (fr) * 2017-06-14 2019-02-20 Counter Brands LLC Émulsion imitant la peau
CN111544314A (zh) * 2020-06-24 2020-08-18 广州泽莲星生物科技有限公司 一种含榆树皮萃取物的提拉紧致冻干面膜组合物及其制备方法

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JPH11180885A (ja) * 1997-12-18 1999-07-06 Noevir Co Ltd 抗アレルギー性皮膚外用剤
KR20080056576A (ko) * 2006-12-18 2008-06-23 성균관대학교산학협력단 신경전달물질 배출을 조절하는 천연물 추출물
WO2012002777A2 (fr) * 2010-07-02 2012-01-05 성균관대학교 산학협력단 Composition contenant des extraits de plante permettant de freiner la sécrétion granulaire des mastocytes
KR20140142526A (ko) * 2013-06-04 2014-12-12 한국콜마주식회사 온도감응성 고분자 지질을 이용하여 친수성 활성물질을 함유한 나노캡슐 농축조성물, 그의 제조방법 및 그를 함유한 화장료 조성물
KR20140142511A (ko) * 2013-06-04 2014-12-12 한국콜마주식회사 온도 감응성 고분자를 이용한 피부지질유사 막의 라멜라형 비수계 액정상 캡슐기재 조성물 및 그를 이용한 화장료 조성물

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JPH11180885A (ja) * 1997-12-18 1999-07-06 Noevir Co Ltd 抗アレルギー性皮膚外用剤
KR20080056576A (ko) * 2006-12-18 2008-06-23 성균관대학교산학협력단 신경전달물질 배출을 조절하는 천연물 추출물
WO2012002777A2 (fr) * 2010-07-02 2012-01-05 성균관대학교 산학협력단 Composition contenant des extraits de plante permettant de freiner la sécrétion granulaire des mastocytes
KR20140142526A (ko) * 2013-06-04 2014-12-12 한국콜마주식회사 온도감응성 고분자 지질을 이용하여 친수성 활성물질을 함유한 나노캡슐 농축조성물, 그의 제조방법 및 그를 함유한 화장료 조성물
KR20140142511A (ko) * 2013-06-04 2014-12-12 한국콜마주식회사 온도 감응성 고분자를 이용한 피부지질유사 막의 라멜라형 비수계 액정상 캡슐기재 조성물 및 그를 이용한 화장료 조성물

Cited By (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP3443949A1 (fr) * 2017-06-14 2019-02-20 Counter Brands LLC Émulsion imitant la peau
AU2018204216B2 (en) * 2017-06-14 2019-09-12 Counter Brands, Llc Skin mimicking emulsion
US10966914B2 (en) 2017-06-14 2021-04-06 Counter Brands, Llc Skin mimicking emulsion
CN111544314A (zh) * 2020-06-24 2020-08-18 广州泽莲星生物科技有限公司 一种含榆树皮萃取物的提拉紧致冻干面膜组合物及其制备方法

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