WO2016142870A1 - Chaussure et son procédé de fabrication - Google Patents

Chaussure et son procédé de fabrication Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2016142870A1
WO2016142870A1 PCT/IB2016/051324 IB2016051324W WO2016142870A1 WO 2016142870 A1 WO2016142870 A1 WO 2016142870A1 IB 2016051324 W IB2016051324 W IB 2016051324W WO 2016142870 A1 WO2016142870 A1 WO 2016142870A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
toe
midsole
protection piece
flange
heel
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IB2016/051324
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Giovanni Mazzarolo
Domenico Gigliello
Mirko BORDIN
Original Assignee
Alpinestars Research Srl
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Alpinestars Research Srl filed Critical Alpinestars Research Srl
Publication of WO2016142870A1 publication Critical patent/WO2016142870A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B5/00—Footwear for sporting purposes
    • A43B5/14—Shoes for cyclists
    • A43B5/145—Boots for motorcyclists
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B13/00—Soles; Sole-and-heel integral units
    • A43B13/02—Soles; Sole-and-heel integral units characterised by the material
    • A43B13/12—Soles with several layers of different materials
    • A43B13/125—Soles with several layers of different materials characterised by the midsole or middle layer
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/08—Heel stiffeners; Toe stiffeners
    • A43B23/16—Heel stiffeners; Toe stiffeners made of impregnated fabrics, plastics or the like
    • A43B23/17—Heel stiffeners; Toe stiffeners made of impregnated fabrics, plastics or the like made of plastics
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B9/00—Footwear characterised by the assembling of the individual parts
    • A43B9/02—Footwear stitched or nailed through
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43—FOOTWEAR
    • A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B9/00—Footwear characterised by the assembling of the individual parts
    • A43B9/12—Stuck or cemented footwear

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a footwear.
  • the present invention relates to a footwear article for sporting use, such as a motorcycling boot.
  • the invention relates, moreover, to a method for manufacturing such a footwear article.
  • the mounting operation which follows the joining operation where the various parts forming the upper are assembled together, consists in positioning the upper on the shoe-last such that the upper may reproduce the shape and the dimensions of the underlying shoe-last.
  • the mounting operation is generally carried out using a machine, commonly known as a lasting machine with which a small boiler (humidifier) is usually combined.
  • a machine commonly known as a lasting machine with which a small boiler (humidifier) is usually combined.
  • the operator must adjust and suitably equip the lasting machine and the boiler associated with it.
  • the operator positions in the lasting machine the shoe-last, on which the assembly insole has previously been arranged in position, and fits the upper onto it in such a way that the bottom edges of the upper are fixed by means of the tensioning grippers of the lasting machine. If necessary, the operator may soften the upper by means of the boiler.
  • the upper is also fixed to the assembly insole by means of a stitch which extends parallel to the stitch performed previously. Finally, the bottom edges of the upper are folded over outwards and the mounting midsole is fixed to the upper again by means of stitching.
  • the outsole is then glued onto said midsole, which has an external perimeter which corresponds to the external perimeter of the final footwear article.
  • any ornamental patterns on the upper may be off-centre with respect to a hypothetical longitudinal axis or the apron toe of the upper, namely the front part of the footwear, may be mounted lower down or higher up than the intended position.
  • the lasting step is even more critical than other types of working operation.
  • the footwear If the upper is incorrectly mounted, in fact, not only does the footwear have an appearance which is different from that intended and desired, but also the fitting of any protection pieces (toe-piece and heel reinforcement), as well as fixing of the mounting midsole, is compromised.
  • the external edges of the upper in fact, could be folded over in a non-uniform manner and therefore could have different widths such as to prevent correct assembly of the upper with the midsole.
  • the general object of the present invention is to manage to overcome the drawbacks of the prior art and obtain footwear which may be reproduced with a suitable degree of precision.
  • Another object is that of managing to obtain footwear, for example motorcycling boots, provided with rigid or semi-rigid protection pieces which have a simplified structure and which may be produced in a shorter amount of time and with lower labour costs.
  • Another object is that of providing a method for manufacturing footwear which may be easily applied on an industrial scale and does not require the use of highly specialized labour.
  • a further object is that of making the management of different models of footwear easier and faster so as to be able to switch from one model to another in a simple and rapid manner during the various working cycles.
  • FIG. 1 shows a schematic side view of a first embodiment of a footwear article according to the principles of the invention
  • Figure 2 shows a schematic rear view of the footwear article according to Figure 1;
  • Figure 3 shows a schematic front view of the footwear article according to Figure 1;
  • Figure 4 shows a schematic median plane view of the footwear article according to Figure 1;
  • FIG. 5 shows a schematic view from above of a component of the footwear according to the invention
  • FIG. 5A shows a schematic cross-sectional view along the plane indicated by Va- Va in Figure 5;
  • FIG. 6 shows a schematic cross-sectional view along the plane indicated by VI- VI in Figure 4;
  • FIG. 7 shows a schematic view, on a larger scale, of the detail of Figure 6 indicated by A;
  • FIG. 8 shows a schematic cross-sectional view along the plane indicated by VIII- VIII in Figure 4;
  • FIG. 9 shows a schematic view, on a larger scale, of the detail of Figure 8 indicated by B;
  • FIG. 10 shows a schematic cross-sectional view along the plane indicated by X-X in Figure 4.
  • FIG. 11 shows a schematic view, on a larger scale, of the detail of Figure 10 indicated by C;
  • FIG. 12A and 12B show schematic cross-sectional views of different embodiments of a first component of the footwear article according to the invention
  • FIG. 13A and 13B show schematic cross-sectional views of different embodiments of a second component of the footwear article according to the invention
  • FIG. 14-21 show in schematic form the different working steps of the method for manufacturing a footwear article according to the principles of the invention.
  • footwear article and its single components which will be provided below relates to a footwear article which is used correctly.
  • "front” will be used to identify the part of the footwear, or its single components, which are relatively closer to the toe of the foot, while “rear” will be used to indicate the part of the footwear, or its single components, which are relatively closer to the heel.
  • “top” will refer to the part of the footwear, or its single components, which during use are relatively more distant from the ground, while “bottom” will be used to indicate the part of the footwear, or its single components, which during use are relatively closer to the ground.
  • the footwear article comprises an outsole 11 and an upper 12 made preferably of leather or similar materials or synthetic fabrics.
  • the upper 12 has its bottom portion closed by an insole 29 which delimits the volume of the upper which can be occupied by the user's foot and defines a perimetral free edge 14 of the upper 12.
  • the free edge 14 of the upper 12 is understood as meaning therefore the bottom portion of the upper which is situated on the outside of the insole 29.
  • the footwear article 10 comprises moreover a toe protection piece 20 provided in the front part of the upper 12.
  • Said protection piece 20 is intended to protect the toes of the user's foot from impact against external bodies and is made of a rigid or semi-rigid polymer material, for example an SBS (styrene-butadiene-styrene) rubber or a thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU).
  • SBS styrene-butadiene-styrene
  • TPU thermoplastic polyurethane
  • the protection piece 20 may be obtained by means of known injection-moulding or casting methods using known polymer materials.
  • the protection piece 20 comprises a shell 22 which is shaped to match the profile of the toe of the footwear 10 and from the bottom edge of which a toe flange 24 extends outwards.
  • the shell 22 may also be shaped so as to extend along the portion of the footwear intended to be arranged above, at least in part, the instep of the user's foot.
  • the toe flange 24 extends towards the outside of the shell 22 along a plane r arranged substantially perpendicular to the plane t tangential to the side surface of the shell 22.
  • the toe flange 24 extends along a plane r arranged inclined at an angle a with respect to the tangential plane t.
  • this angle a will be comprised between 110° and 130°.
  • the footwear article 10 further comprises a mounting midsole 30 onto the bottom surface of which the outsole 11 is fixed.
  • the midsole 30 is also made of rigid or semi-rigid polymer material and, as can be clearly seen in Figures 5 and 5A, is provided with a perimetral recess 32 intended to receive the free edge 14 of the upper 12 and the toe flange 24 of the protection piece 20.
  • the midsole is preferably made by means of a moulding process, for example injection-moulding or casting process, using known polymer materials, for example rubbers and polyurethanes.
  • the mounting midsole 30 is joined together with the upper 12 and the toe protection piece 20 via fixing means 34.
  • the fixing means 34 are arranged along the perimetral recess 32 of the midsole 30 and allow the free edge 14 of the upper 12 and the toe flange 24 of the toe protection piece 20 to be fixed along the perimetral recess 32.
  • the footwear article 10 is preferably in the form of a boot, for example a motorcycling boot.
  • the upper 12 comprises a leg-piece 16 which is intended to receive the bottom portion of the user's leg.
  • the leg-piece 16 is preferably formed by two flaps which can be at least partially overlapped and closed using one or more closing fasteners 26.
  • the leg-piece 16 may be provided with one or more protection pieces 28.
  • These protection pieces 28, which are preferably made of rigid material, are designed to be applied to the portion of the leg-piece 16 able to be arranged over, at least partly, the shinbone or calf bone or calf muscle of the user.
  • protection pieces may be applied to the leg-piece 16 in a known manner, for example using known heat-welding methods or by means of stitching or gluing.
  • the footwear article 10 further comprises a heel protection piece 40 applied to the rear portion of the upper 12.
  • This protection piece 40 is intended to protect the user's heel from impacts with external bodies and, in a similar manner to that described with reference to the toe protection piece 20, is also preferably made of rigid or semi-rigid material, for example a thermoplastic material such as SBS or TPU rubber.
  • the heel protection piece 40 comprises a shell 42 which is shaped to match the profile of the heel of the footwear 10 and from the bottom of which a heel flange 44 extends outwards.
  • the heel flange 44 as shown in the accompanying figures, is intended to be seated, in a manner similar to that which occurs for the toe flange 24 of the toe protection piece 20, inside the perimetral recess 32 of the mounting midsole and to be fixed to the midsole 30 via the fixing means 34.
  • the heel flange 44 of the heel protection piece 40 may extend towards the outside of the shell 42 along a plane r arranged substantially perpendicular to (Figure 13A) or inclined at an angle a (Figure 13B) relative to the plane t, tangential to the side surface of the shell 42.
  • this angle a will be between 110° and 130°.
  • the perimetral recess 32 of the midsole 30, for receiving the toe flange 24 and the heel flange 44, must also be arranged with the same inclination.
  • the fixing means 34 via which the midsole is fixed to the upper 12 consist preferably of a stitch which extends along the entire free edge of the upper 12 and along the projecting flanges 24, 44 of the toe and heel protection pieces 20, 40.
  • the toe flange 24 is fixed along the portion of the recess 32 provided along the front portion F of the midsole 30, while the free edge 14 of the upper 12 and the heel flange 44 will be fixed respectively along portions of the recess 32 provided in the central portion M and the rear portion R of the midsole 30.
  • the various portions of the recess 32 are designed so as to have a width "1" and depth "p" equal to the width and the thickness of the components of the upper 12 or the protection pieces 20, 40, to which they must be joined.
  • the portion of the recess 32 intended to receive the toe flange 24 of the toe protection piece 20 will have a width "I” and depth "p" equal to the width and the thickness of toe flange 24.
  • the portions of the perimetral recess 32 intended to receive respectively the free edge 14 of the upper 12 and the heel flange 44 of the heel protection piece 40 will have a width and depth equal to the width and the thickness of the heel flange 44 and the free edge 14.
  • the perimetral recess 32 delimits a raised part
  • the raised part 35 has a shape and dimensions substantially the same as those of the insole 29. Consequently, based on that described above, the front portion and rear portion of the insole 29 have a profile matching the bottom edge of the shell 22 of the toe protection piece 20 and the bottom edge of the shell 42 of the heel protection piece 40. In this way, assembly of the upper 12 and the insole 29 and of the upper 12 and the mounting midsole 30 is further simplified.
  • the flexible insole 29, which is made of preferably soft and water-repellent fabric, such as non-woven fabric, may be fixed to the upper 12 and to the protection pieces 20, 40 of the footwear 10 by means of a perimetral stitch 36.
  • Fixing of the insole 29 to the upper, provided with toe and heel protection pieces 20, 40, may be performed without having to use the lasting machine.
  • the toe portion and the heel portion of the upper 12, in fact, owing to the provision of the toe protection piece 20 and the heel protection piece 40, are already shaped to match the profile of the toe and heel of the final footwear article.
  • these protection pieces are made of a rigid or semi-rigid material, there is no risk of deformation occurring during the various working steps.
  • the operator is inevitably guided so as to perform the perimetral stitch 36 along the bottom profile of the shell 22 of the protection piece 20 and along the bottom profile of the shell 42 of the protection piece 40, the bottom profile of the shells 22, 42 being understood as being the portion of the protection pieces 20, 40 from which the respective projecting flanges 24, 44 extend.
  • Fixing of the closing element 29 is performed so that it is therefore possible to turn outwards the free edge 14 of the upper 12 so that it can be then fitted together with the recess 32 of the mounting midsole 30.
  • the upper 12, as well as the protection pieces provided on the toe and heel of the footwear, are joined together internally by means of a lining 13.
  • the insole 29 may be fixed to the lining 13 by means of a second stitch 38, preferably arranged on the inside of the stitch 36 with which the insole is fixed to the upper 12 and to the protection pieces 20, 40.
  • the method comprises the steps of:
  • an embodiment of the method according to the invention further comprises the step of arranging the heel protection piece 40 (see Figure 14) along the rear portion of the upper 12.
  • This protection piece 40 is applied to the upper 12 so that the heel flange 44 may be seated in a corresponding portion of the perimetral recess 32 of the mounting midsole 30 and may therefore be fixed to the mounting midsole 30 via the fixing means 34.
  • the protection pieces 20, 40 of the upper 12 may be applied onto a upper which is already complete, i.e. may be applied onto an upper already provided with associated toe and heel portions (as schematically indicated in Figure 14 by the arrows K).
  • the protection pieces 20, 40 may themselves form the toe and heel portions of the upper 12. In this case they may then be combined internally either with a lining 13, as described above, or with a support fabric made of less noble material than that used for the remaining parts of the upper.
  • a footwear article which is less costly but has similar aesthetic and technical properties.
  • the assembly 15 is formed by fixing to the upper 12 an insole 29 which already has the dimensions and shape of the bottom surface of the shoe-last of the footwear article 10.
  • an insole 29 which is preferably made of flexible material, will in this case be adjusted to the desired size subsequently, by removing any excess material, after carrying out the perimetral stitch 36.
  • formation of the assembly 15 may be performed without having to use a lasting machine since, owing to the provision of the toe and heel protection pieces 20, 40 in the front and rear zone of the upper, an already pre-formed upper may be obtained.
  • the shoe-last 50 of the footwear article 10 may be advantageously used only during the following step when the mounting midsole 30 is applied and when the outsole is applied.
  • the assembly 15 may be fitted onto the shoe-last 50 so that the insole 29 coincides with the bottom surface of the shoe-last 50 (see Figures 16 and 17).
  • a first layer of glue is preferably distributed over the bottom surface of the insole 29 and the bottom surface of the toe flange 24 as well as over the bottom surface of the heel flange 44, if the heel protection piece 40 is present.
  • a second layer of glue may be distributed over the top surface of the mounting midsole 30, along the perimetral recess 32 and over the raised part 35.
  • the bottom surface of the projecting flanges 24, 44 of the protection pieces 20, 40 and the top surface of the mounting midsole 30 may be treated with suitable solvents for removing any impurities which result from the moulding method used to produce them and which could affect adhesion between the midsole and the assembly 15.
  • the mounting midsole 30 may be glued onto the bottom surface of the assembly 15.
  • the free edge of the upper 14, once it has been folded outwards may rest on the section of the perimetral recess 32 provided in the central portion M of the midsole. Therefore, not only is it no longer necessary to use the lasting machine during mounting of the upper, but the application of the mounting midsole 30 is also greatly simplified since the recess 32 and the projecting flanges 24, 44 form in fact along the separation surfaces a form-fit which allows the correct positioning of the midsole 30 to be obtained.
  • a press schematically indicated by the letter P in Figure 21, may be used.
  • This press for example an oil-hydraulic press or a bell press, allows the midsole to be kept pressed against the bottom surface of the assembly 15 with a constant pressure so as to ensure correct fixing.
  • the stitch 34 is provided along the perimetral recess of the midsole 30.
  • This stitch 34 is also easy to perform since, once the midsole 30 and the assembly 15 are correctly positioned, the operator must merely carry out the stitch 34 following the profile of the projecting flanges 24, 44 of the protection pieces 20, 40 and the profile of the free edge 14 of the upper 12.
  • midsole with a perimetral recess designed to receive the perimetral toe flange 24 of the toe protection piece 20 and the free edge 14 of the upper, and also with a raised part designed to fit together with the insole 29 by means of which the bottom surface of the upper 14 is closed, the operations of gluing the midsole to the upper are also simplified considerably.
  • the method according to the present invention may be advantageously used also to manufacture footwear using the Ideal working method.
  • the provision of the midsole with the perimetral recess and the associated raised part in fact, on the one hand facilitates the formation of the perimetral fixing stitch and on the other hand does not adversely affect gluing of the mounting midsole. Where needed, in fact, it is possible to perform resoling of the footwear without the risk of damaging its structure.
  • the means for fixing together upper and midsole may be different from those shown, provided that they are able to allow fixing of the toe flange of the toe protection piece and the free edge of the upper along the perimetral recess of the midsole.
  • the embodiments of the toe protection piece and heel protection piece described have a projecting flange which extends along the entire bottom perimeter of the respective shaped shells. It is clear that the innovative principles of the present invention may be advantageously applied also in the case where the toe and heel flanges have discontinuous zones or extend only along a portion of the bottom perimeter of the respective shells.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Physical Education & Sports Medicine (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un article de chaussure (10) qui comprend : une semelle extérieure (11) ; une tige (12) ayant sa partie inférieure fermée par une semelle intérieure (29), de façon à délimiter le volume de la tige (12) qui peut être occupé par le pied de l'utilisateur et définir un bord périmétrique libre (14) de la tige (12) ; une partie de protection de bout (20) constituée de matériau polymère rigide ou semi-rigide et agencée dans la partie avant de la tige (12) ; la partie de protection de bout (20) comprenant une coque (22) qui est formée pour correspondre au profil de le bout de l'article de chaussure (10), et à partir du bord inférieur de laquelle une bride de bout (24) s'étend vers l'extérieur ; une semelle intercalaire de montage (30), sur la surface inférieure de laquelle la semelle extérieure (11) est fixée ; la semelle intercalaire de montage (30) étant constituée de matériau polymère rigide ou semi-rigide et comprenant un évidement périmétrique (32) conçu pour recevoir le bord libre (14) de la tige (12) et la bride de bout (24) de la partie de protection de bout (20). La semelle intercalaire de montage (30) est reliée à la tige (12) et à la partie de protection de bout (20) par l'intermédiaire de moyens de fixation (34) qui sont disposés le long de l'évidement périmétrique (32) de la semelle intercalaire de montage (30) de façon à fixer le bord libre (14) de la tige (12) et la bride de bout (24) de la partie de protection de bout (20) le long de l'évidement périmétrique (32). La présente invention concerne également un procédé pour fabriquer un tel article de chaussure.
PCT/IB2016/051324 2015-03-10 2016-03-09 Chaussure et son procédé de fabrication WO2016142870A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IT102015000008181 2015-03-10
ITUB2015A000585A ITUB20150585A1 (it) 2015-03-10 2015-03-10 Calzatura e metodo di realizzazione della stessa

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WO2016142870A1 true WO2016142870A1 (fr) 2016-09-15

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Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE1098404B (de) * 1958-11-17 1961-01-26 Georg Hartmann Schuhfabrik Sicherheitsschuh mit eingearbeiteter Zehenschutzkappe aus Metall
DE1288956B (de) * 1961-11-30 1969-02-06 Naessens P V B A Shoe Schuh mit einer Zehenkappe aus Metall
FR2221093A1 (fr) * 1973-03-15 1974-10-11 Mazzarolo Sante
DE19616027A1 (de) * 1996-04-23 1997-10-30 Alsa Gmbh Sicherheitsschuh und Verfahren zu seiner Herstellung
NL1021967C2 (nl) * 2002-11-21 2004-05-26 Isco Technic B V Veiligheidsschoeisel.
US20040187347A1 (en) * 2003-03-27 2004-09-30 Chien-I Wu Edge-folded steel head combined shoe's insole
CN201976834U (zh) * 2011-03-07 2011-09-21 山东盛昊鞋业有限公司 防穿刺抗砸注射劳保鞋

Patent Citations (7)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE1098404B (de) * 1958-11-17 1961-01-26 Georg Hartmann Schuhfabrik Sicherheitsschuh mit eingearbeiteter Zehenschutzkappe aus Metall
DE1288956B (de) * 1961-11-30 1969-02-06 Naessens P V B A Shoe Schuh mit einer Zehenkappe aus Metall
FR2221093A1 (fr) * 1973-03-15 1974-10-11 Mazzarolo Sante
DE19616027A1 (de) * 1996-04-23 1997-10-30 Alsa Gmbh Sicherheitsschuh und Verfahren zu seiner Herstellung
NL1021967C2 (nl) * 2002-11-21 2004-05-26 Isco Technic B V Veiligheidsschoeisel.
US20040187347A1 (en) * 2003-03-27 2004-09-30 Chien-I Wu Edge-folded steel head combined shoe's insole
CN201976834U (zh) * 2011-03-07 2011-09-21 山东盛昊鞋业有限公司 防穿刺抗砸注射劳保鞋

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