WO2016091785A1 - Cosmetic compositions with a proteolipid and methionylmethionine - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, in particular hair treatment compositions, comprising - in each case based on their weight - 0.0001 to 20 % by weight of at least one proteolipid of the formula (I): R' -X-R'', in which R' is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 11 to 24 carbon atoms, R'' is a protein, a peptide or a protein hydrolysate, X is -C(O)O- or -N⁺(R^III2)-R^IV- or -N(R^III)R^IV- or -C(O)-N(R^V)R^VII, R^III is -(CH₂)_x-CH₃ where x = 0 to 22 and R^IV is -CH₂-CH(OH)-CH₂- or -(CH₂)_x- where x = 0 to 22; R^V and R^VI independently of one another are -H or -(CH₂)_x-CH₃ where x = 0 to 22; with the proviso that R'' is keratin or a keratin hydrolyzate if X is -C(O)O-, and 0.0001 to 30 % by weight of methionylmethionine. The cosmetic compositions with methionylmethionine and certain proteolipid(s) exhibit a positive effect on skin and also hair and the hair follicle.

Description

 COSMETIC AGENTS WITH A PROTEOLIPIDE AND METHIONYLMETHIONINE

The invention relates to cosmetic agents, in particular hair treatment compositions such as shampoos and so-called conditioners, with a special active ingredient combination for gentle and effective care of the hair.

Not least due to the heavy use of hair, for example by dyeing or perming, as well as by cleaning the hair with shampoos and by environmental pollution, the importance of care products with the longest possible effect increases. Such care products affect the natural structure and properties of the hair. Thus, for example, the wet and dry combability of the hair, the hold and the fullness of the hair can be optimized or the hair can be protected from increased split ends following such care treatments.

It has therefore long been customary to subject the hair to a special aftertreatment. In this case, the hair is treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, usually in the form of a rinse. Depending on the formulation, this treatment improves the combability, the hold and the fullness of the hair and reduces the split rate.

Likewise, multifunctional cosmetic products are known in the prior art. In particular, these include the so-called "2 in 1" shampoos, which not only cleanse the hair, but also condition it.These products are highly appreciated by the consumer because of their product performance, at least one process step, for example, conditioning with a classical hair conditioner; unnecessary

Proteolipids are known as caring ingredients in cosmetics, and such products are widely used in the marketplace. WO 201 1/042323 A2 discloses cosmetic preparations containing proteolipids which improve numerous properties of the body surfaces treated with them, in particular hair, and for example, in addition to improved gloss, in particular lead to an "impregnation" of the hair. to improve the effects achieved, in particular with regard to the grip, the combability, the softness and the volume of the hair or the hairstyle and to further develop cosmetic means in this respect. It has now been found that a combination of certain proteolipids with methionylmethionine has a particularly positive effect on body surfaces, in particular on the skin, the hair and the hair follicle.

A first subject of the present invention are cosmetic compositions containing - in each case based on their weight - a) 0.0001 to 20 wt .-% of at least one proteolipid of the formula (I)

R ^' -XR ^" (I),

 in the

R ^'is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 24 carbon atoms,

R ^"means a protein, a peptide or a protein hydrolyzate,

X is -C (O) O- or -N ⁺ (R '" ₂ ) -R' ^V - or -N (R"')R' ^V - or -C (O) -N (R ^V ) R ^VI - stands,

- R '"- (CH ₂ ) x-CH ₃ with x = 0-22 and

- R ' ^{v represents} -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ - or - (CH ₂ ) _X - with x = 0-22;

R ^v and R ^VI independently represent -H or - (CH ₂ ) _X -CH 3 with x = 0-22; with the proviso that R ^"is keratin or a keratin hydrolyzate when X is -C (O) 0-, and

 b) 0.0001 to 30% by weight of methionylmethionine.

The remedy is a cosmetic. Preferred cosmetic agents are selected from the group of shower gels, shower baths, dentifrices and cleansers, mouthwashes, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair sprays, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair dye shampoos, hair dyes, hair fixatives, hair dressings , Hair styling preparations, hair lotions, mousses, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof.

Particularly preferred cosmetic agents serve the treatment of keratinic fibers and thus represent hair treatment agents. Hair treatment compositions in the context of the present invention are, for example, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair sprays, hair rinses, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair dye shampoos, hair dyes, Hair fixatives, hair dressings, hair styling preparations, hair lotions, mousses, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof. In view of the fact that, in particular, men often shy away from the use of several different means and / or several application steps, preference is given to means which the man uses anyway. Preferred cosmetic agents are therefore hair treatment compositions in the form of shampoos, hair conditioners or hair tonics.

The means included - related by weight - from 0.0001% to 20% by weight of at least one selected proteolipid.

The agents contain as the first essential ingredient at least one proteolipid of the formula (I)

R ^' -XR ^" (I),

in the

R ^'is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 24 carbon atoms,

R ^"means a protein, a peptide or a protein hydrolyzate,

X is -C (O) O- or -N ⁺ (R '" ₂ ) -R' ^V - or -N (R"')R' ^V - or -C (O) -N (R ^V ) R ^VI - stands,

- R '"- (CH ₂ ) x-CH ₃ with x = 0-22 and

- R ' ^{v represents} -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ - or - (CH ₂ ) _X - with x = 0-22;

R ^v and R ^VI independently represent -H or - (CH ₂ ) _X -CH 3 with x = 0-22; with the proviso that R ^"is keratin or a keratin hydrolyzate when X is -C (O) 0-.

Preferably, the proteolipids are used within certain amounts in the agents. Preferred cosmetic agents contain - based on their weight - 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0, 1 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0, 15 to 0.5 wt .-% proteolipid (s).

The radical R ^" in formula (I) represents a peptide or a protein or a protein hydrolyzate When X = -C (O) 0-, R ^{" is selected} from the group of keratin or keratin hydrolyzate.

Preferred radicals R ^" are oligopeptides which have at least one amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu

wherein the amino group may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.

In this formula as well as in the formulas below, the parenthetized hydrogen atom of the amino group, as well as the parenthetical group of the acid function, means that the groups concerned may be present as such (then an oligopeptide having the relevant number of amino acids as shown) The formula is three amino acids) or that the amino acid sequence is present in an oligopeptide which comprises even more amino acids, depending on where the other amino acid (s) is / are bound, the parenthetized components of the above formula are replaced by the other amino acid residue (s).

Oligopeptides in the sense of the present application are acid amide-like linked by peptide bonds condensation products of amino acids comprising at least 3 and a maximum of 25 amino acids.

In preferred cosmetic agents of the embodiment described above, the oligopeptide (= the radical R ^" ) comprises 5 to 15 amino acids, preferably 6 to 13 amino acids, particularly preferably 7 to 12 amino acids and in particular 8, 9 or 10 amino acids.

Depending on whether further amino acids are bound to the sequence Glu-Glu-Glu and depending on the nature of these amino acids and depending on the selection of the radicals R ^' and optionally R ^m and R ^IV , the molecular weight of the proteolipid contained in the agents can vary , Preferred cosmetic agents are characterized in that the proteolipid has a molecular weight of from 1000 to 30,000 Da, preferably from 1250 to 25,000 Da, more preferably from 1,500 to 20,000 Da and in particular from 2,000 to 15,000 Da.

As R ^{"oligopeptides} are preferably used, which not only consist of the three glutamic acids, but contain further bound to this sequence amino acids. These additional amino acids are preferably selected from certain amino acids, while certain other agents are less preferred.

It is preferred if the radical R ^" contains the proteolipids used in the agents tyrosine.

It is further preferred if the radical R ^" contains the proteolipids used in the agents leucine.

It is further preferred if the radical R ^" contains the proteolipids used in the agents isoleucine.

It is further preferred if the radical R ^" contains the proteolipids used in the agents arginine.

It is further preferred if the radical R ^" contains the proteolipids used in the agents valine.

The radicals R ^" in particularly preferred oligopeptides or amino acid sequences contained in the preferred oligopeptides are described below:

A particularly preferred oligopeptide additionally contains tyrosine, preferably via its Acid function is bound to the Glu-Glu-Glu sequence. Preferred cosmetic agents are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R ^"has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu

wherein the amino group may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.

Another particularly preferred oligopeptide additionally contains isoleucine, which is preferably linked to the Glu-Glu-Glu sequence via its amino function. Preferred cosmetic agents are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R ^"has at least one amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile

wherein the amino group may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.

Oligopeptides having both of the aforementioned amino acids (tyrosine and isoleucine) are preferred. Cosmetic agents are particularly preferred in which the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R ^"has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile

wherein the amino group may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.

Further preferred oligopeptides additionally contain arginine, which is preferably bound to isoleucine. Preferred cosmetic agents are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R ^"has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg

wherein the amino groups may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.

Still further preferred oligopeptides additionally contain valine, which is preferably bound to the arginine. Further preferred cosmetic agents are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R ^"has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val

wherein the amino groups may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.

Still further preferred oligopeptides additionally contain leucine, which is preferably bound to valine. Further preferred cosmetic agents are characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R ^"has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu

wherein the amino groups may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.

Particularly preferred oligopeptides additionally contain leucine, which is preferably bound to the tyrosine. Further preferred cosmetic agents are characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R ^"has at least one amino acid sequence Leu-Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu

wherein the amino groups may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.

In summary, especially cosmetic agents are preferred which contain at least one proteolipid of the formula (I) in which R ^"has at least one amino acid sequence Leu-Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Val-Leu

wherein the amino groups may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.

As already mentioned, R ^{"is selected} from the group keratin or keratin hydrolyzate, if X = -C (O) 0-.

In all other cases, the radical R ^" in formula (I) may be a peptide or a protein or a protein hydrolyzate, with protein hydrolysates being preferred Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures obtained by acid, base or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins) Protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (BASF SE), Promois ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (BASF SE), Nutrilan® ^® (BASF SE), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

Preference is given to the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, for example soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (BASF SE), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Preferably, irrespective of the choice of X in formula (I), the radical R ^{"is selected} from keratin or keratin hydrolysates Preferred cosmetic agents are characterized in that they contain at least one proteolipid of formula (I) in which R ^{" is} for keratin or a Keratinhydrolysat stands.

Particularly preferred groupings RX- are listed in the tables of WO 201 1/042323 A2. This is expressly and fully incorporated by reference. The groups disclosed therein are bound in still further preferred embodiments of the present invention to keratin or keratin hydrolyzate as a group R ^" .

Regardless of the choice of the grouping -X- in formula (I), cosmetic agents are preferred which contain at least one proteolipid of the formula (I) in which R ^{m is} -CH 3 and R ^{IV is} - (CH 2) x- where x = 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 stands.

Furthermore, particularly preferred cosmetic agents are characterized in that they contain at least one proteolipid of the formula (I) in which X represents -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) 2-CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ - and R ^'represents - ( CH ₂ ) i 7-CH ₃ .

Likewise particularly preferred cosmetic agents are characterized in that they contain at least one proteolipid of the formula (I) in which X represents -N ⁺ (CH 3) 2 -CH 2 -CH (OH) -CH ₂ - and R ^'represents - (CH ₂ i i-23-CH ₃ .

Further preferred cosmetic agents are characterized in that they contain at least one proteolipid of the formula (I) in which X is -C (O) -O- and R ^'is - (CH 2) 7 -CH 3 -.

The agents preferably contain the proteolipid (s) in an amount of from 0.01 to 10.0% by weight and more preferably from 0.05 to 2.0% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the ready-to-use agent ,

The agents contain as the second essential ingredient - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 30 wt .-% methionylmethionine. Methionylmethionine is the dipeptide of methionine and has the following structure:

From the dipeptide methionylmethionine exist the four different stereoisomers DD, LL, DL and LD. Of the four stereoisomers, only the L-methionyl-L-methionine is natural, the three other dipeptides L-methionyl-D-methionine, D-methionyl-L-methionine and D-methionyl-D-methionine are all not natural. The described positive effects can be achieved with all four stereoisomeric dipeptides. The Methionylmethionin can be used as DD / LL / LD / DL mixture, as DL / LD mixture or DD / LL mixture. In principle, the use of a stereoisomeric dipeptide alone or in combination with one or two further stereoisomers is conceivable. If only one stereoisomeric dipeptide is used, preference is given to choosing L-methionyl-L-methionine or D-methionyl-D-methionine.

The two pairs DD / LL-methionylmethionine and DL / LD-methionylmethionine are diastereomeric and have different physical data. Thus, for example, the diastereomeric pair DD / LL at room temperature has a solubility of 21.0 g / l in water, whereas the solubility of the diastereomeric pair DL / LD is 0.4 g / l. Accordingly, it may be preferable to use the methionylmethionine as a DD / LL mixture or as a DD / LL / LD / DL mixture with a high proportion of the DD / LL diastereomeric pair. These mixtures can be easily incorporated / dissolved in an aqueous phase or an aqueous-surfactant phase of a cosmetic product.

The cosmetic agents contain the methionylmethionine preferably in an amount of 0.01 to 5.0 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.1 to 3.0 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the ready cosmetic product.

It has been found that the use of the abovementioned proteolipids in combination with methionylmethionine imparts outstanding properties to the cosmetic products. The hair care agent cosmetic agents give the hair treated with them more resilience, as evidenced by higher tensile strengths of the keratin fibers and a reduction in elasticity loss, for example, when damaged by atmospheric agents. In addition, the moisture balance of the keratinic fibers is stabilized, so that the combability improves and the aging process is delayed. In addition, the cosmetic products when applied to the skin (for example by a bubble bath or shower gel), to an improved smoothness of the skin.

The cosmetic agents may include other active ingredients and adjuvants. These are described below.

It has proven advantageous to use protein hydrolysates as an additional ingredient in addition to the proteolipids. These enhance the effect of the proteolipids and are in turn amplified in their effects. The protein hydrolyzates have been described above as R ^"detailed summary, preferred are cosmetic compositions which additionally -. Based on its weight - 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 7 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0 , 1 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.0 wt .-% protein hydrolyzate (s), preferably keratin hydrolyzate (s) included.

Preferred cosmetic agents are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.5 to 70% by weight, preferably from 1 to 60% by weight and in particular from 5 to 25% by weight of anionic and / or nonionic (s) and / or cationic and / or amphoteric surfactant (s).

Suitable anionic surfactants for the cosmetic compositions are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group of about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule.

As amphoteric surfactants, which are often referred to as zwitterionic surfactants, such surface-active compounds are called, which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^(_) - or -S03 ^(_) group. Particularly suitable amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example

Kokosacylaminopropyldimethylammoniumglycinat, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazoline having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine. Amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants are also understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, apart from a Cs-C24-alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SCbH group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids,

N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-

Alkylaminopropionsäuren and Alkylaminoessigsäuren each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred amphoteric / zwitterionic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C12-C18 acylsarcosine.

Nonionic surfactants contain, for example, a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups as the hydrophilic group.

Very particular preference is given to cosmetic compositions which additionally contain fatty alcohol (s) and / or fatty alcohol alkoxylate (s), preferably C 12-22 fatty alcohol (s) and / or C 12-22 fatty alcohol ethoxylate (s) having 10 to 30 EO units, especially preferably Ci6-i8 fatty alcohol (s) and / or C16-18 fatty alcohol ethoxylate (s) having 12 to 20 EO units, preferably in amounts of 5 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 7.5 to 17.5 wt .-% and in particular from 10 to 15 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the cosmetic product.

In summary, preference is given to cosmetic agents, in particular hair treatment compositions, which contain, by weight, from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 17.5% by weight and in particular from 5 to 15% by weight of anionic surfactants. s) surfactant (s), particularly preferably fatty alcohol ether sulfates of the formula

H3C- (CH ₂₎ n- (OCH ₂ CH 2) k-OS03- M ⁺

in which n represents values of from 5 to 21, preferably from 7 to 19, particularly preferably from 9 to 17 and in particular from 1 to 13 and k for values of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, preferably 1, 2 or 3 and especially 2, and M is a cation from the group Na ⁺ , K ⁺ NH ₄ ⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Zn ²⁺ , preferably Na ⁺ ,

As a further optional component, the cosmetic agents may contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one polymer from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers.

Cationic or amphoteric polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. "Permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group regardless of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, such polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group via a C1 -4 hydrocarbon group to one of acrylic acid, Methacrylic acid or its derivatives constructed main chain polymer have been found to be particularly suitable.

In addition to cationic polymers or in their place, the cosmetic agents may also contain amphoteric polymers. These have in addition to the cationically charged group (s) at least one negatively charged group in the molecule and are also referred to as zwitterionic polymers.

Preferably, the polymer or polymers are used within narrower ranges. Thus, cosmetic agents are preferred which - based on their weight - 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, preferably 0, 1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.25 to 2.5% by weight of amphoteric polymer (s).

Regardless of whether the agents contain amphoteric polymers or not, further preferred cosmetic agents are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. -%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% cationic (s) polymer (s) included.

Other suitable ingredients include nonionic polymers, anionic polymers, fatty substances, waxes, amino acids, vitamins, provitamins, vitamin precursors, betaines, biochinones, purines (derivatives), taurine (derivatives), L-carnitine (salts), panthenol, pantothenic acid, 2-furanones , 2 furanone derivatives, ectoine, allantoin, plant extracts, ester oils, ultraviolet light stabilizers, structurants, thickeners, electrolytes, pH modifiers, swelling agents, dyes, anti-dandruff agents, chelants, opacifiers, pearlescers, pigments, stabilizers, propellants, antioxidants, perfume oils , Silicones and / or preservatives.

The cosmetic compositions have advantageous properties and also confer advantageous properties on the body surfaces and hair treated with them. Especially in hair and scalp treatment, benefits have been observed that go beyond the benefits of proteolipids and methionylmethionine alone. Thus, the cosmetic means in the form of hair treatment agents increase the elasticity of the hair treated with them and lead to an inner-structural strengthening of the hair fibers, which is reflected for example in higher melting temperatures in the differential thermal analysis. Likewise, there is a hydrophobization of the hair surface, which manifests itself in an increase in the contact angle of water droplets on the hair surface. There is also an improvement in wet and dry combabilities. On the skin and especially the scalp, the cosmetic agents cause an increase in elasticity and surprisingly sebumregulierende effects. The visual impression of "greasy" skin or hair is thus avoided or weakened. A further subject of the present invention is accordingly the use of a combination of a proteolipid of the formula (I)

R ^' -XR ^" (I),

in the

R ^'is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 11 to 24 carbon atoms,

R ^"means a protein, a peptide or a protein hydrolyzate,

X is -C (O) O- or -N ⁺ (R '" ₂ ) -R' ^V - or -N (R"')R' ^V - or -C (O) -N (R ^V ) R ^VI - stands,

- R '"- (CH ₂ ) x-CH ₃ with x = 0-22 and

- R ' ^{v represents} -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ - or - (CH ₂ ) _X - with x = 0-22;

R ^v and R ^VI independently represent -H or - (CH ₂ ) _X -CH 3 with x = 0-22;

with the proviso that R ^"is keratin or a keratin hydrolyzate when X is -C (O) 0-, and methionylmethionine, preferably in a cosmetic agent, for improving at least one of the properties

 Tensile strength of keratinic fibers, especially human hair;

Stabilizing the moisture balance of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair;

 Combability of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair; Increasing the contact angle between water droplets and the surface of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair;

 Reduction in the elasticity of keratin fibers, in particular human hair when damaged by atmospheric agents; Sebum regulation on the skin.

With respect to further preferred embodiments of the use mutatis mutandis applies to the cosmetic means said.

Another object of the present invention is a method for improving at least one of the properties

 Tensile strength of keratinic fibers, especially human hair;

 Stabilizing the moisture balance of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair;

 Combability of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair;

 Increasing the contact angle between water droplets and the surface of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair;

 Reduction in the elasticity of keratin fibers, in particular human hair when damaged by atmospheric agents;

 Sebum regulation on the skin, preferably the scalp;

in which a cosmetic agent, preferably hair treatment agent, containing - respectively based on its weight - c) from 0.0001 to 20% by weight of at least one proteolipid of the formula (I)

R ^' -XR ^" (I),

 in the

R ^'is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 24 carbon atoms,

R ^"means a protein, a peptide or a protein hydrolyzate,

X is -C (O) O- or -N ⁺ (R '" ₂ ) -R' ^V - or -N (R"')R' ^V - or -C (O) -N (R ^V ) R ^VI - stands,

- R '"- (CH ₂ ) x-CH ₃ with x = 0-22 and

- R ' ^{v represents} -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ - or - (CH ₂ ) _X - with x = 0-22;

R ^v and R ^VI independently represent -H or - (CH ₂ ) _X -CH 3 with x = 0-22; with the proviso that R ^"is keratin or a keratin hydrolyzate when X is -C (O) 0-, and

 a) 0.0001 to 130 wt .-% methionylmethionine

on the keratin fibers and / or the skin, preferably the scalp, applied, left there for 5 seconds to 10 minutes and then rinsed or

is applied to the keratinic fibers and / or the skin, preferably the scalp, and remains there.

With respect to further preferred embodiments of the method mutatis mutandis applies to the cosmetic means said.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the present invention without, however, limiting it.

Examples

All amounts are, unless otherwise stated, parts by weight of active substance. The following formulations were provided using known preparation methods.

Hair conditioner:

 Wt .-%

 Cetearyl Alcohol 5.0

 Quaternium-87 0.75

 Glycol Distearate 1, 0

Proteolipid ^* 1, 5

 Shea Butter (INCI: Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter) 1, 5

 L-methionyl-L-methionine 1, 0

Lactic acid 0, 1 Behenoyl PG -trimonium chlorides 1, 5

 Behentrimonium chlorides 0.5

 Polyquaternium-37 0.4

 Glycerol 0, 1

 Dimethicone 1, 0

 Water, preservation, accompanying substances and possibly perfume oils ad 100

Care Spray:

 Wt .-%

 Stearamidopropyldimethylamine 0.3

 Glycerin 2.0

 Polyquaternium-10 0.2

Proteolipid ^* 0, 1

 Panthenol 0.2

 DL-methionyl-DL-methionine 0.8

 Ethanol 15

 Nicotinic acid amide 0.1

 Dicaprylyl carbonates 0, 1

 Cetrimonium Chloride 0.2

 Water, preservation, accompanying substances and possibly perfume oils ad 100

Shampoo:

^* As proteolipid one of the following proteolipids A to L or a mixture of at least two of the proteolipids A was used to L:

Proteolipid A (wheat protein) -O-C (O) - (CH ₂ ) io-CH ₃

Proteolipid B (wheat protein) -0-C (0) - (CH ₂ ) i6-CH ₃ Proteolipid C (Wheat Protein) - N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) 2- (CH 2) i 6 -CH ₃

Proteolipid DH ₃ C- (CH2) i7-N ⁺ _(CH3) 2-CH2-CH (OH) -CH 2 (wheat protein)

Proteolipid EH ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) i7-N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) 2-CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ - (wheat protein)

Proteolipid F (wheat protein) -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) 2 -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ -cocoyl

Proteolipid G (Keratin) -O-C (O) - (CH ₂ ) io-CH ₃

Proteolipid H (keratin) -O-C (O) - (CH ₂ ) 16-CH ₃

Proteolipid I (keratin) - N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ - (CH ₂ ) i ₆ -CH ₃

Proteolipid JH ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) i7-N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) 2 -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ - (Keratin)

Proteolipid KH ₃ C- (CH ₂₎ i7-N ⁺ _(CH3) 2-CH2-CH (OH) -CH ₂ - (keratin)

Proteolipid L (keratin) -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ -cocoyl

The following commercial products were used:

 Commercial product INCI Supplier / Manufacturer

La nice 0 Cetearyl Alcohol BASF SE

 Varisoft W575 PG Quaternium-87 Evonik

 Cutina GMS-V or Cutina AGS Glycol Distearate BASF SE

 Polymer JR400 Polyquaternium-10 Dow

 Dehyquart A CA Cetrimonium Chloride BASF SE

 Synthalen® CR Polyquaternium-37 3V Sigma

 Quartamine BTC 131 Behenoyl PG Trimonium Chloride Kao Chemicals

Genamin KDMP Behentrimonium Chloride Clariant

 Tego Amide S 18 Stearamidopropyldimethylamine Evonik

 Ucare® Polymer JR 400 Polyquaternium-10 Dow

 Cetiol CC dicaprylyl carbonate BASF SE

 Texapon N70 NA Sodium Laureth Sulfate BASF SE

 Empicol AL 70 Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate Huntsman

Rewoteric AM 2 Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate Evonik

 Tego Betain F50 Cocoamidopropyl Betaine Evonik

 N-Hance 3196 Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Ashland

Claims

claims:

 1. Cosmetic agent containing - in each case based on its weight - d) from 0.0001 to 20% by weight of at least one proteolipid of the formula (I)

R ^' -XR ^" (I),

 in the

R ^'is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 24 carbon atoms,

R ^"means a protein, a peptide or a protein hydrolyzate,

X is -C (O) O- or -N ⁺ (R '" ₂ ) -R' ^V - or -N (R"')R' ^V - or -C (O) -N (R ^V ) R ^VI - stands,

- R '"- (CH ₂ ) x-CH ₃ with x = 0-22 and

- R ' ^{v represents} -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ - or - (CH ₂ ) _X - with x = 0-22;

R ^v and R ^VI independently represent -H or - (CH ₂ ) _X -CH 3 with x = 0-22; with the proviso that R ^"is keratin or a keratin hydrolyzate when X is -C (O) 0-, and

 b) 0.0001 to 30% by weight of methionylmethionine.

2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains at least one proteolipid of the formula (I), in which R ^"stands for keratin or a keratin hydrolyzate.

3. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it contains at least one proteolipid of the formula (I) in which X is -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ and R ^'is - (CH ₂ ) i- ₂₃ -CH ₃ .

4. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it contains at least one proteolipid of the formula (I), in which X is -N ⁺ (CH ₃ ) ₂ -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ and R ^'is - (CH ₂ ) i7-CH ₃ .

5. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it contains at least one proteolipid of the formula (I), in which X is -C (O) -O- and R ^'is - (CH ₂ ) 17- CH ₃ stands.

6. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the methionylmethionine is a mixture of L-methionyl-L-methionine, L-methionyl-D-methionine, D-methionyl-L-methionine and D-methionyl-D -methionine is.

7. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the methionyl methionine is L-methionyl-L-methionine and / or D-methionyl-D-methionine.

8. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that - based on its weight - 0.5 to 70 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 60 wt .-%, more preferably 2.5 to 35 wt .-% and in particular 5 to 25 wt .-% of anionic (s) and / or nonionic and / or cationic and / or amphoteric surfactant (s)

9. A method for improving at least one of the properties

 Tensile strength of keratinic fibers, especially human hair;

 Stabilizing the moisture balance of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair;

 Combability of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair;

 Increasing the contact angle between water droplets and the surface of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair;

 Reduction in the elasticity of keratin fibers, in particular human hair when damaged by atmospheric agents;

 Sebum regulation on the skin, preferably the scalp;

 in which a cosmetic agent, preferably hair treatment agent, containing - in each case based on its weight - a) 0.0001 to 20 wt .-% of at least one proteolipid of the formula (I)

R ^' -XR ^" (I),

 in the

R ^'is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 24 carbon atoms,

R ^"means a protein, a peptide or a protein hydrolyzate,

X is -C (O) O- or -N ⁺ (R '" ₂ ) -R' ^V - or -N (R"')R' ^V - or -C (O) -N (R ^V ) R ^VI - stands,

- R '"- (CH ₂ ) x-CH ₃ with x = 0-22 and

- R ' ^{v represents} -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ - or - (CH ₂ ) _X - with x = 0-22;

R ^v and R ^VI independently represent -H or - (CH ₂ ) _X -CH 3 with x = 0-22; with the proviso that R ^"is keratin or a keratin hydrolyzate when X is -C (O) 0-, and

 b) 0.0001 to 30% by weight of methionylmethionine

 on the keratin fibers and / or the skin, preferably the scalp, applied, left there for 5 seconds to 10 minutes and then rinsed or

 is applied to the keratinic fibers and / or the skin, preferably the scalp, and remains there.

10. Use of a combination of a proteolipid of the formula (I)

R ^' -XR ^" (I),

 in the

R ^'is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, R ^"means a protein, a peptide or a protein hydrolyzate,

X is -C (O) O- or -N ⁺ (R '" ₂ ) -R' ^V - or -N (R"')R' ^V - or -C (O) -N (R ^V ) R ^VI - stands,

- R '"- (CH ₂ ) x-CH ₃ with x = 0-22 and

- R ' ^{v represents} -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ - or - (CH ₂ ) _X - with x = 0-22;

R ^v and R ^VI independently represent -H or - (CH ₂ ) _X -CH 3 with x = 0-22;

with the proviso that R ^"is keratin or a keratin hydrolyzate when X is -C (O) 0-, and methionylmethionine, preferably in a cosmetic agent, for improving at least one of the properties

 Tensile strength of keratinic fibers, especially human hair;

 Stabilizing the moisture balance of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair;

 Combability of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair;

 Increasing the contact angle between water droplets and the surface of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair;

 Reduction in the elasticity of keratin fibers, in particular human hair when damaged by atmospheric agents;

 Sebum regulation on the skin.