EP3052197A1 - Performance-enhanced hair treatment composition - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention provides hair treatment compositions comprising – based in each case on the weight thereof – 0.0001% to 10% by weight of at least one oligopeptide having at least one Glu-Glu-Glu amino acid sequence, where the amino group may be free or protonated and the carboxyl groups may be free or deprotonated, and 0.0001% to 10% by weight of at least one proteolipid of the formula (I) in which R1 is a straight-chain hydrocarbyl radical having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, R2 is -(CH2)y-CH3 with y = 0 to 22, Y is -H or -OH, X- is a physiologically acceptable anion, Hy is an oligopeptide residue from keratin hydrolysate, and x has values from 0 to 22. In these compositions, proteolipids and oligopeptides have mutually enhancing positive effects on the hair and the hair follicle.

Description

 "performance-enhanced hair care products"

The invention relates to hair treatment compositions, in particular so-called conditioners, with a combination of active ingredients for gentle and effective hair care.

 Not least due to the heavy use of hair, for example by dyeing or perming, as well as by the cleaning of the hair with shampoos and by environmental pollution, the importance of care products with the longest possible effect increases. Such care products affect the natural structure and properties of the hair. Thus, for example, the wet and dry combability of the hair, the hold and the fullness of the hair can be optimized or the hair can be protected from increased splits following such treatments.

 It has therefore long been customary to subject the hair to a special aftertreatment. In this case, the hair is treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, usually in the form of a rinse. Depending on the formulation, this treatment improves the combability, the hold and the fullness of the hair and reduces the splitting rate.

 The use of special oligopeptides for the care of keratinic fibers is known, for example, from WO2010 / 026010 A1. In particular, oligopeptides with the sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu are disclosed as particularly suitable for hair care.

There is still the need to provide active ingredients or combinations of active ingredients for cosmetic products with good care properties and good biodegradability. Especially in dye-containing and / or electrolyte-containing formulations, there is a need for additional nourishing active ingredients which can be easily incorporated into known formulations and are not weakened in their action due to incompatibilities with other ingredients.

 It has now been found that proteolipids and certain oligopeptides enhance their positive effect on hair and hair follicles.

A first subject of the present invention are hair treatment compositions containing - in each case based on their weight - a) 0.0001 to 10 wt .-% of at least one oligopeptide, the at least one amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu

 wherein the amino group may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated

 b) 0.0001 to 10% by weight of at least one proteolipid of the formula (I)

 in the

 R 1 is a straight-chain hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 22 C atoms,

R2 is - (CH ₂ ) y-CH ₃ where y = 0 to 22,

 Y is -H or -OH.

 X- for a physiologically acceptable anion,

 Hy for an oligopeptide residue from keratin hydrolyzate and

 x stands for values from 0 to 22.

In this formula as well as in the formulas below, the parenthetized hydrogen atom of the amino group, as well as the parenthetical group of the acid function, means that the groups concerned may be present as such (then an oligopeptide having the relevant number of amino acids as shown (in the above) Formula 3) or that the amino acid sequence is present in an oligopeptide, which also comprises other amino acids - depending on where the other amino acid (s) is / are bound, the parenthetical components of the above formula by the / the other Replaced amino acid residue (s).

Hair treatment compositions for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hairsprays, hair conditioners, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair dye shampoos, hair dyes, hair fixatives, hair dressings, hairstyling preparations, hair lotions, mousses, hair gels , Hair waxes or their combinations. In view of the fact that men often require the use of several different means and / or multiple application steps shy, means of the invention are preferably such agents, which applies the man anyway. Preferred agents according to the invention are therefore shampoos, conditioners or hair tonics. The hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 10 wt .-% of at least one oligopeptide having at least one amino acid residue Glu-Glu-Glu, ie at least three consecutive glutamic acids.

Oligopeptides in the sense of the present application are acid amide-like linked condensation products of amino acids which comprise at least 3 and at most 25 amino acids by peptide bonds

 In hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention, the oligopeptide comprises 5 to 15 amino acids, preferably 6 to 13 amino acids, particularly preferably 7 to 12 amino acids and in particular 8, 9 or 10 amino acids.

 Depending on whether further amino acids are bound to the sequence Glu-Glu-Glu and depending on the nature of these amino acids, the molecular weight of the oligopeptide contained in the agents of the invention may vary. Hair treatment compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide has a molecular weight of from 650 to 3000 Da, preferably from 750 to 2500 Da, particularly preferably from 850 to 2000 Da and in particular from 1000 to 1600 Da.

 In summary, preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide comprises 5 to 15 amino acids, preferably 6 to 13 amino acids, more preferably 7 to 12 amino acids and especially 8, 9 or 10 amino acids and a molecular weight of 650 to 3000 Da, preferably from 750 to 2500 Da, more preferably from 850 to 2000 Da and in particular from 1000 to 1600 Da. As can be seen from the preferred number of amino acids in the oligopeptides and the preferred molecular weight range, it is preferred to use oligopeptides which do not consist solely of the three glutamic acids but have further amino acids bound to this sequence. These other amino acids are preferably selected from certain amino acids, while certain other representatives are less preferred in the present invention.

Thus, it is preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain no methionine. It is further preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain no cysteine and / or cystine. It is further preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain no aspartic acid and / or asparagine. It is further preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain no serine and / or threonine. In contrast, it is preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain tyrosine. It is further preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain leucine. It is further preferred if in the inventive Agents used oligopeptides containing isoleucine. It is further preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain arginine. It is further preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain valine. Particularly preferred oligopeptides or amino acid sequences contained in the preferred oligopeptides are described below:

 A particularly preferred oligopeptide additionally contains tyrosine, which is preferably linked via its acid function to the Glu-Glu-Glu sequence. Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in them has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu, where the amino group may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated. Another particularly preferred oligopeptide additionally contains isoleucine, which is preferably linked to the Glu-Glu-Glu sequence via its amino function. Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in them has at least one amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile, where the amino group can be free or protonated and the carboxy groups can be free or deprotonated.

 Oligopeptides which have both the abovementioned amino acids (tyrosine and isoleucine) are preferred according to the invention. Hair treatment agents according to the invention in which the oligopeptide contained in them has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile are particularly preferred, the amino group being free or protonated and the carboxy groups being free or deprotonated.

 Further preferred oligopeptides additionally contain arginine, which is preferably bound to isoleucine

 Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in them has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg, wherein the amino groups are free or protonated and the carboxy groups are free or deprotonated may be present.

 Still further preferred oligopeptides additionally contain valine, which is preferably bound to the arginine. Further preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in them has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val, wherein the amino groups are free or protonated and the carboxy groups are free or deprotonated can.

Still further preferred oligopeptides additionally contain leucine, which is preferably bound to the valine. Further preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in them has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu, wherein the amino groups are free or protonated and the carboxy groups are free or deprotonated may be present. Particularly preferred oligopeptides additionally contain leucine, which is preferably bound to the tyrosine. Further preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in them has at least one amino acid sequence Leu-Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu, wherein the amino groups are free or protonated and the carboxy groups are free or may be present deprotonated.

Very particular preference is given to compositions according to the invention containing at least two oligopeptides which satisfy the abovementioned criteria but differ from one another. For example, hair treatment agents containing at least two mutually different oligopetides A and B, both containing the amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu, are preferred.

 Such mutually different oligopeptides A and B correspond to each other in that they carry three consecutive Glu amino acids in their amino acid sequence, but have differences in the upstream or downstream amino acids. Preference is given to mutually different peptides with partial agreement, which may well be greater than in the above-mentioned three amino acids.

 Thus, further preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized by containing at least two mutually different oligopetides A and B, both containing the amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile.

 Also preferred are hair treatment agents containing at least two mutually different oligopeptides A and B, both containing the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu. Still further preferred hair treatment agents are characterized by containing at least two mutually different oligopetides A and B both containing the amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg.

 Even more preferred hair treatment agents contain at least two mutually different oligopetides A and B, both containing the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile.

 Very particularly preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they contain at least two mutually different oligopeptides A and B, both of which contain the amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg.

 Also very particularly preferred hair treatment compositions contain at least two mutually different oligopeptides A and B, both of which contain the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg.

 Preferably, there is an even greater structural match in the oligopeptides. Thus, hair treatment compositions containing at least two distinct oligopetides A and B, both of which contain the amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val, are further preferred embodiments of the present invention.

Also preferred embodiments are hair treatment agents which are at least two Oligopetide A and B are different from each other, both of which contain the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val.

 Still further preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain at least two mutually different oligopeptides A and B, both of which contain the amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu.

 Also, even more preferred hair treatment agents contain at least two mutually different oligopetides A and B, both of which contain the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu.

 Particularly preferred hair treatment agents are characterized in that they contain at least two different oligopetides A and B, wherein the oligopeptide A has the amino acid sequence Leu-Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu, wherein the amino groups are free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated and the oligopeptide B has the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu, wherein the amino groups are free or protonated and the carboxy groups are free or may be present deprotonated.

 Very particularly preferred agents of this last-mentioned embodiment contain, based on the weight of the composition, 0.00001 to 1% by weight of oligopeptide A and 0.00001 to 1% by weight of oligopeptide B. Further preferred agents of this latter embodiment contain the weight of the agent is -0.00005 to 0.1% by weight of oligopeptide A and 0.00005 to 0.1% by weight of oligopeptide B. Even more preferred agents of this latter embodiment contain - based on the weight of the agent -0 , 0001 to 0.01% by weight of oligopeptide A and 0.0001 to 0.001% by weight of oligopeptide B.

 It has been found that the use of the aforementioned oligopeptides gives the hair treatment compositions according to the invention outstanding properties. The compositions of the invention impart more resilience to the hairs treated with them, resulting in higher tensile strengths of the keratin fibers and a reduction in elasticity loss, e.g. when damaged by atmospheric agents. In particular, the particularly preferred oligopeptides also stabilize the moisture balance of the keratinic fibers, so that the combability improves and the aging process is delayed.

 Another advantage of the compositions of the present invention is that the moldability and restructurability of keratinic fibers treated with them is improved. The oligopeptides used in the context of the present invention, which satisfy the abovementioned conditions, can advantageously be obtained from keratinic materials. It is preferred according to the invention that these oligopeptides are used in high proportions, based on the total keratinic peptide content of the agents.

It is very particularly preferred that the highest possible proportion of all contained in the middle keratinic peptides meets the conditions mentioned above.

 Preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, particularly preferably at least 1% by weight, more preferably at least 2.5% by weight, even more preferred at least 5% by weight, and in particular at least 10% by weight, of all the keratinic peptides contained in the composition have the amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu.

 Further preferred hair treatment compositions of the invention are characterized in that at least 0.1 wt .-%, preferably at least 0.5 wt .-%, more preferably at least 1 wt .-%, more preferably at least 2.5 wt .-%, even further preferably at least 5% by weight and in particular at least 10% by weight of all the keratinic peptides contained in the middle have the amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile.

Still further preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least 0.1 wt .-%, preferably at least 0.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably at least 1 wt .-%, more preferably at least 2.5 wt .-%, still more preferably at least 5% by weight and in particular at least 10% by weight of all the keratinic peptides contained in the middle have the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu.

Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least 0.1 wt .-%, preferably at least 0.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably at least 1 wt .-%, more preferably at least 2.5 wt .-%, even further preferably at least 5% by weight and in particular at least 10% by weight of all the keratinic peptides contained in the middle have the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile.

Very particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least 0.1 wt .-%, preferably at least 0.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably at least 1 wt .-%, more preferably at least 2.5 wt .-%, still more preferably at least 5% by weight and in particular at least 10% by weight of all the keratinic peptides contained in the middle have the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg. Still further preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least 0.1 wt .-%, preferably at least 0.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably at least 1 wt .-%, more preferably at least 2.5 wt .-%, still more preferably at least 5% by weight and in particular at least 10% by weight of all the keratinic peptides contained in the middle have the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val.

Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, more preferably at least 1% by weight, more preferably at least 2.5% by weight, still further preferably at least 5% by weight and in particular at least 10% by weight of all the keratinic peptides contained in the middle have the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu exhibit.

 The abovementioned conditions relate to the total content of the agents according to the invention to peptides which originate from keratinic materials. In addition to the oligopeptides of keratinic origin, of course, other peptides and / or protenihydrolysates can be used, for example from other native sources. For example, the additional use of wheat protein hydrolysates is preferred, see below.

The hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain as the second essential ingredient - up to 10% by weight of at least one proteolipid of the formula (I)

R 1 is a straight-chain hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 22 C atoms,

R2 is - (CH ₂ ) y-CH ₃ where y = 0 to 22,

 Y is -H or -OH,

 X- for a physiologically acceptable anion,

 Hy for an oligopeptide residue from keratin hydrolyzate and

 x stands for values from 0 to 22.

Preferred radicals R 1 are selected from - (CH 2) z -CH 3 where z = 1 to 15, particularly preferably z being the values 9, 11 or 13.

Preferred radicals R 2 are selected - (CH 2) _y -CH 3 where y = 0 to 12, more preferably y = 0 to 8; most preferably y is 0 (ie R2 is a methyl radical).

 Y is preferably -OH. It is particularly preferred that Y is -OH and x is 1. When Y = -H, x preferably represents a number from 1 to 7, particularly preferably from 1 to 5, more preferably from 1 to 3 and in particular from 1.

Hair treatment agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 0.0005 to 7.5% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 6% by weight, more preferably 0.005 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.01 to 4% by weight. % and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-% of at least one proteolipid of formula (Ia)

where X is selected from Ch, Br, Vi S0 ₄ ^{2 "} , V ₃ P0 ₄ ^3"

As already mentioned, Y can stand for -H. Accordingly, preferred hair treatment compositions contain from 0.0005 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 6% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 4% by weight and in particular 0, 1 to 3 wt .-% at least a proteolipid of formula (Ib) (Ib)

in which X is selected from CI ^" , Br, 7 ₂ S0 ^2" , V ₃ P0 ³

 As already mentioned, the use of proteolipids is preferred in which Y is -OH, R 2 is a methyl group and x = 1. The residue Hy is an oligopeptide of keratin hydrolyzate and preferably comprises 3 to 12 amino acids.

 Accordingly, preferred hair treatment compositions contain from 0.0005 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 6% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 4% by weight and in particular 0, 1 to 3% by weight of at least one proteolipid of the formula (Ic)

in the

- X is selected from CH, Br, _^1/2 S0 ₄ ^{2 ",} V ₃ P0 ₄ ^3"

 m for numbers from 9 to 23,

 n for the number of amino acids in the keratin hydrolyzate, preferably for numbers from 3 to 12,

R ^'represents the side chains of the amino acids in the keratin hydrolyzate, where R ^' may be different in each repeating unit.

Preferably m is the number 9 (corresponding to a decyl radical attached to the N atom), 11 (dodecyl radical, lauryl radical), 13 (tetraadecyl radical, myristyl radical), 15 (hexadecyl radical, palmityl radical) and preferably represents 17 (octadecyl radical, stearyl radical). Corresponding compounds are e.g. Also commercially available is the use of compounds of the formula (Ic) in which the long-chain radical at the N atom has been obtained from natural fats via their fatty acid or fatty alcohol mixtures A preferred example of the present invention is coconut oil rich in lauric acid, so that the commercially available and preferably usable compound having the INCI name "cocodimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed keratin" is rich in compounds of the formula (Ic) in which m represents the Number 11 stands.

 The agents according to the invention may contain further active ingredients and adjuvants. These are described below.

The agents according to the invention preferably additionally comprise at least one emulsifier or a surfactant, with surfactants depending on the field of application as surfactants or are designated as emulsifiers and are selected from anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, ampholytic and nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers.

Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.5 to 70% by weight, preferably from 1 to 60% by weight and in particular from 5 to 25% by weight of anionic and / or nonionic (s) and / or cationic and / or amphoteric surfactant (s).

Zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one - COOM or -SO 3 - ⁾ group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are the so-called betaines, such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3 carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

 Ampholytic surfactants and emulsifiers are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a Cs-C24-alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO 3 H-group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C12-C18 acylsarcosine.

Nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Also usable according to the invention are cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides. The long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as. In cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and tricetylmethyl ammonium chloride. Further preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83. Very particular preference is given to compositions according to the invention which additionally contain fatty alcohol (s) and / or fatty alcohol alkoxylate (s), preferably C 12-22 fatty alcohol (s) and / or C 12-22 fatty alcohol ethoxylate (s) having 10 to 30 EO units, especially preferably Ci6-i8 fatty alcohol (s) and / or C16-18 fatty alcohol ethoxylate (s) having 12 to 20 EO units, preferably in amounts of 5 to 20% by weight, preferably from 7.5 to 17.5 wt .-% and in particular from 10 to 15 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition.

 In summary, hair-treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which contain, by weight, from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 17.5% by weight and in particular from 5 to 15% by weight of anionic surfactant ( e), particularly preferably fatty alcohol ether sulfates of the formula

H3C- (CH2) n- (OCH ₂ CH ₂₎ k-OS03- M ⁺

in which n represents values of from 5 to 21, preferably from 7 to 19, particularly preferably from 9 to 17 and in particular from 1 to 13 and k for values of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, preferably 1, 2 or 3 and especially 2, and M is a cation from the group Na ⁺ , K ⁺ NHV, Vi Mg ²⁺ , Zn ²⁺ , preferably Na ⁺ .

 Preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are further characterized in that they additionally contain amphoteric surfactant (s), preferably from the groups of N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N Alkyl taurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethyl aminopropionate C12 - C18 acylsarcosine, N- Alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group Kokosacylaminoethylhy- hydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat, which under the INCI name Cocami dopropyl betaine compounds known under the INCI name Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate known compounds, preferred means the amphoteric surfactant (s) in amounts of 1 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 2.5 to 12 wt .-% and in particular from 5 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total agent included.

As a further optional constituent, the agents according to the invention may contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one polymer from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers.

Cationic or amphoteric polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which have a cationic group, irrespective of the pH of the agent. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of a Ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C1-C4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable. In addition to cationic polymers or in their place, the agents according to the invention can also contain amphoteric polymers. These additionally have at least one negatively charged group in the molecule and are also referred to as zwitterionic polymers. Preferably, the polymer or polymers are used within narrower ranges. Thus, agents according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 3.5% by weight and in particular from 0.25 to 2.5% by weight of amphoteric polymer (s).

 Regardless of whether the agents contain amphoteric polymers or not, further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. -%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% cationic (s) polymer (s) included.

In summary, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 3.5% by weight, and in particular from 0.25 to 2.5% by weight of cationic polymer (s), preferred cationic polymer (s) being / are selected from

Poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) (INCI: Polyquaternium-37) and / or quaternized cellulose derivatives (INCI: Polyquaternium 10) and / or cationic alkylpolyglycosides and / or cationized honey and / or cationic guar derivatives and / or polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and copolymers thereof Esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and / or copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate and / or vinylpyrrolidone-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid copolymers and / or quaternized

Polyvinyl alcohol and / or Polyquaternium 2 and / or Polyquaternium-7 and / or Polyquaternium 17 and / or Polyquaternium 18 and / or Polyquaternium 24 and / or Polyquaternium 27.

In addition to the cationic polymers or in their place, the agents of the invention may contain amphoteric polymers.

In summary, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the amphoteric polymer (s) are co-polymers of at least one of trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide and / or trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamide and / or trimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide and / or trimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide and / or trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide and / or trimethylammoniumethylacrylate and / or Trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylat and / or trimethylammonium ethyl acrylate and / or ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamide and / or ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamide and / or Ethyldimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide and / or ethyldimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide and / or ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylamide and / or ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylate and / or ethyldimethylammoniumethylmethacrylate and / or ethyldimethylammoniumethylacrylate having at least one of the monomers acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid and / or crotonic acid and / or 2-methylcrotonic acid.

 Particularly preferred amphoteric polymers according to the invention are:

 Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with acrylic acid

 Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with methacrylic acid

 Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with crotonic acid

 Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with 2-methyl-crotonic acid

 Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamide with acrylic acid

 Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamide with methacrylic acid

 Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamide with crotonic acid

 Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylmethacrylamide with 2-methylcrotonic acid copolymers of trimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide with acrylic acid

 Copolymers of trimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide with methacrylic acid

 Copolymers of trimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide with crotonic acid

 Copolymers of trimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide with 2-methylcrotonic acid

 Copolymers of trimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide with acrylic acid

 Copolymers of trimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide with methacrylic acid

 Copolymers of trimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide with crotonic acid

 Copolymers of trimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide with 2-methylcrotonic acid copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with acrylic acid

 Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with methacrylic acid

 Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with crotonic acid

 Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethylacrylamide with 2-methyl-crotonic acid

 Copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with acrylic acid

 Copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with methacrylic acid

 Copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with crotonic acid

 Copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with 2-methyl-crotonic acid

 Copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl methacrylate with acrylic acid

 Copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl methacrylate with methacrylic acid

 Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethyl methacrylate with crotonic acid

 Copolymers of trimethylammoniumethyl methacrylate with 2-methyl-crotonic acid

 Copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with acrylic acid

 Copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with methacrylic acid

Copolymers of trimethylammonium ethyl acrylate with crotonic acid Copolymers of T ^• imethylammoniumethylacrylate with 2-methylcrotonic acid

 Copolymers of ethyld methylammonium ethylacrylamide with acrylic acid

 Copolymers of ethyld methylammonium ethylacrylamide with methacrylic acid

 Copolymers of ethyldithylammonium ethylacrylamide with crotonic acid

 Copolymers of ethyldithylammonium ethylacrylamide with 2-methylcrotonic acid

Copolymers of ethyld methylammonium ethyl methacrylamide with acrylic acid

 Copolymers of ethyld methylammonium ethyl methacrylamide with methacrylic acid

Copolymers of ethyld methylammonium ethyl methacrylamide with crotonic acid

 Copolymers of ethyld methylammonium ethyl methacrylamide with 2-methyl-crotonic acid

Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide with acrylic acid

 Copolymers of ethyldithylammoniumpropylacrylamide with methacrylic acid

 Copolymers of ethyldithylammoniumpropylacrylamide with crotonic acid

 Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumpropylacrylamide with 2-methylcrotonic acid

Copolymers of ethyldithylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide with acrylic acid

 Copolymers of ethyldithylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide with methacrylic acid

Copolymers of ethyldimethylammoniumpropylmethacrylamide with crotonic acid

 Copolymers of ethyldithylammonium-propylmethacrylamide with 2-methyl-crotonic acid

Copolymers of ethyld methylammonium ethylacrylamide with acrylic acid

 Copolymers of ethyld methylammonium ethylacrylamide with methacrylic acid

 Copolymers of ethyldithylammonium ethylacrylamide with crotonic acid

 Copolymers of ethyldithylammonium ethylacrylamide with 2-methylcrotonic acid

Copolymers of ethyl methyl ammonium ethyl acrylate with acrylic acid

 Copolymers of ethyl methyl ammonium ethyl acrylate with methacrylic acid

 Copolymers of ethyl methyl ammonium ethyl acrylate with crotonic acid

 Copolymers of ethyl methyl ammonium ethyl acrylate with 2-methyl crotonic acid

 Copolymers of ethyld methylammonium ethyl methacrylate with acrylic acid

 Copolymers of ethyld methylammonium ethyl methacrylate with methacrylic acid

 Copolymers of ethyld methylammonium ethyl methacrylate with crotonic acid

 Copolymers of methyl ethyl ammonium ethyl methacrylate with 2-methyl crotonic acid

Copolymers of ethyl methyl ammonium ethyl acrylate with acrylic acid

 Copolymers of ethyl methyl ammonium ethyl acrylate with methacrylic acid

 Copolymers of ethyl methyl ammonium ethyl acrylate with crotonic acid

 Copolymers of ethyl methyl ammonium ethyl acrylate with 2-methyl crotonic acid

As a further ingredient, the agents according to the invention may with particular preference contain one or more amino acids. Particularly preferred amino acids which can be used according to the invention are from the group of glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, Threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, β-alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-carnitine, L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4 -Dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine-sulfoxide (L-alliin), L- irans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline (L-pyroglutamic acid), L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, whereby both single amino acids and mixtures can be used.

 Preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges. Here, according to the invention preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 1, 5 Wt .-%, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 0.25 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably from the group of glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.

 Another preferred group of ingredients of the compositions of the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. These are described below:

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a.

 Vitamin B1 (thiamine)

 Vitamin B2 (riboflavin)

 Vitamin B3. Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin Bs (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829. The said compounds of the vitamin Bs type are preferred in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10 Wt .-%, based on the total agent included. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

 Vitamin Ββ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

 Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.

 Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

 Vitamin H. The vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-c] imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the common name biotin has meanwhile prevailed. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

In summary, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain as care substance - based on its weight - 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 3.5 wt .-% , more preferably 0.5 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% vitamins and / or pro-vitamins and / or vitamin precursors containing, preferably, the groups A, B, C, E, Panthenol ((±) -2,4-dihydroxy-A - (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethyl-butyramide, provitamin Bs) and / or pantothenic acid (vitamin B3, vitamin Bs ) and / or niacin, niacinamide or nicotinamide (vitamin B3) and / or L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and / or thiamine (vitamin B1) and / or riboflavin (vitamin B2, vitamin G) and / or biotin (vitamin B7 , Vitamin H) and / or folic acid (vitamin B9, vitamin B _c or vitamin M) and / or vitamin Ββ and / or vitamin B12. To improve the elasticity and strengthen the internal structure of the hair treated with the agents according to the invention, the compositions according to the invention may contain purine and / or purine derivatives. In particular, the combination of purine and / or purine derivatives with ubiquinones and / or plastoquinones results in that the hairs treated with appropriate agents show, inter alia, higher measured values in differential thermal analysis and improved wet and dry combabilities.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower quantitative ranges. Here, according to the invention, preferred cosmetic agents are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s).

Among purine, the purines and the purine derivatives, some representatives are particularly preferred according to the invention. Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as care substance - based on their weight - from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.0025 to 1% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.005 to 0.5% by weight and contains in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s), wherein preferred agents purine and / or purine derivative (s) from the group purine (R = R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H), adenine (R = NH ₂ , R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H), guanine (R = OH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H), uric acid (R = R ² = R ³ = OH, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H), hypoxanthine (R = OH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H), 6-purinethiol (R = SH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H), 6-thioguanine (R = SH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H), xanthine (R = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H), caffeine (R = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ ), theobromine (R = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = H, R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ ), theophylline (R = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = CH _3, R ⁵ = CH _3, R ⁶ = H).

 Depending on the desired application of the compositions of the invention may vary the nature and amount of the purine derivative. Caffeine has proved particularly useful in hair cosmetic formulations, for example in shampoos preferably in amounts of from 0.005 to 0.25% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 0, 05 wt .-% (in each case based on the shampoo) can be used.

 As a further component, the agents according to the invention may contain at least one carbohydrate from the group of monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides. Here are preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention characterized in that they are used as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 4.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 4 wt. -%, more preferably 0.5 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.75 to 2.5 wt .-% carbohydrate (s) selected from monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides

 As already mentioned, preferred agents according to the invention contain (a) amino acid (s).

Particularly preferred amino acids which can be used according to the invention are from the group glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, β Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-carnitine, L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine-sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-frans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline ( L-pyroglutamic acid), L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, whereby both the individual amino acids and mixtures can be used.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges. Here, according to the invention, preferred cosmetic agents are characterized in that it additionally contains from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.15 to 1% by weight and in particular from 0.2 to 0.5% by weight .-% amino acid (s), preferably (one) amino acid (s) from the group glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.

 Another, more preferably usable care substance which has activating properties is taurine. According to the invention, preferred hair-treatment compositions contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid).

 Preference is also given to the additional use of bisabolol and / or bisabolol oxides in the agents according to the invention. Here, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1, 5 wt % Bisabolol and / or oxides of bisabolol, preferably (-) - alpha-bisabolol.

 The agents of the present invention may contain, in addition to the oligopeptide (s), hyaluronic acid ester (s) and optional other ingredients, other substances that prevent, ameliorate or cure hair loss. In particular, a content of hair root stabilizing agents is advantageous. In summary, cosmetic agents according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of hair root stabilizing substances, in particular minoxidil and / or finasteride and / or ketoconazole.

 Additional antidandruff active ingredients (for example climbazole, piroctone olamine or zinc pyrithione) are used to purposefully reduce the amount of dandruff causing the dandruff, to restore the normal bacterial count to the normal percentage and to reduce the scaling to the physiological level. However, laboratory tests have shown that the different species representatives of Pityrosporum ovale react differently to the antidandruff active ingredients. In order to maximally combat all dandruff is therefore a combination of anti-dandruff active ingredients most successful.

 In summary, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of antidandruff active ingredients, in particular piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-tri-methylpentyl) -pyridine-2 ( 1 H) -one, compound with 2-aminoethanol, 1: 1) and / or zinc pyrithione and / or selenium sulfide and / or climbazole and / or salicylic acid or fumaric acid.

The compositions according to the invention may furthermore contain all active substances, additives and auxiliaries known for such preparations. In many cases, the agents contain at least one surfactant, wherein in principle both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants are suitable. In many cases, it has proved to be advantageous, the Select surfactants from anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants. These surfactants have been described in detail above.

 In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain emulsifiers (F). The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent. The compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionogenic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18. Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.

It has furthermore proven to be advantageous if, in addition to the polymer (s) from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers, further polymers (G) are contained in the agents according to the invention. In a preferred embodiment, therefore, further polymers are added to the compositions according to the invention, both anionic and nonionic polymers having proven effective.

 In another embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain nonionic polymers (G4).

 The other polymers (G) are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.

 Furthermore, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, an agent according to the invention may also contain UV filters (I). The UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum is in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

 The UV filters (I) are usually contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, based on the total agent. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.

Finally, the compositions according to the invention may also contain plant extracts (L).

Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.

The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root. Furthermore, it may be preferred to use in the compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.

 In addition, it may prove advantageous if the compositions according to the invention contain penetration aids and / or swelling agents (M). These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, Diols and triols, and in particular 1, 2-diols and 1, 3-diols such as 1, 2-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, 1, 2-dodecanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1 , 6-hexanediol, 1, 5-pentanediol, 1, 4-butanediol.

A particularly preferred group of ingredients are the silicones.

Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone.

 Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention comprise the silicone (s) preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 7% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight. , in each case based on the total mean.

 Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-I

(CH ₃ ) 3 Si - [0-Si (CH ₃ ) 2] x -O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3 (Si-I),

in which x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.

 These silicones are called DIMETHICONE according to the INCI nomenclature. In the context of the present invention, as the silicone of the formula Si-1, the compounds are preferably:

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si -O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [O ^■ (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] n -O ^■ Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH _{3) 3} Si -0- (CH _{3) 2} Si-0-Si (CH _{3) 3} (CH _{3) 3} Si- [O ^■ (CH _{3) 2} Si] ₂ -0 i ^■ Si (CH _{3 3}

(CH _{3) 3} Si - [0- (CH _{3) 2} Si] 2-0-Si (CH _{3) 3} (CH _{3) 3} Si- [O ^■ (CH _{3) 2} Si] i ₃ -0 ^■ Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH _{3) 3} Si - [0- (CH _{3) 2} Si] ₃ -0-Si (CH _{3) 3} (CH _{3) 3} Si- [O ^■ (CH _{3) 2} Si] i4 -0 ^■ Si ( CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH _{3) 3} Si - [0- (CH _{3) 2} Si] 4-0-Si (CH _{3) 3} (CH _{3) 3} Si- [O ^■ (CH _{3) 2} Si] i5 -0 ^■ Si ( CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH _{3) 3} Si - [0- (CH _{3) 2} Si] 5-0-Si (CH _{3) 3} (CH _{3) 3} Si- [0 ^■ (CH _{3) 2} Si] he -0 ^■ Si ( CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH _{3) 3} Si - [0- (CH _{3) 2} Si] ₆ -0-Si (CH _{3) 3} (CH _{3) 3} Si- [0 ^■ (CH _{3) 2} Si] i7 -0 ^■ Si ( CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH _{3) 3} Si - [0- (CH _{3) 2} Si] ₇ -0-Si (CH _{3) 3} (CH _{3) 3} Si- [0 ^■ (CH _{3) 2} Si] i8 -0 ^■ Si ( CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH _{3) 3} Si - [0- (CH _{3) 2} Si] ₈ -0-Si (CH _{3) 3} (CH _{3) 3} Si- [0 ^■ (CH _{3) 2} Si] i9 -0 ^■ Si ( CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH _{3) 3} Si - [0- (CH _{3) 2} Si] ₉ -0-Si (CH _{3) 3} (CH _{3) 3} Si- [0 ^■ (CH _{3) 2} Si] ₂₀ -0 ^■ Si ( CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] io-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

where (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ and / or (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) _{3 are} particularly preferred. Of course, mixtures of the above-mentioned silicones may also be contained in the agents according to the invention.

Preferred silicones which can be used according to the invention have viscosities of from 0.2 to 2 mm ² s at 20 ° C., silicones having viscosities of from 0.5 to 1 mm ² s being particularly preferred. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones.

 Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-II)

R'aG ₃ - _a -Si (OSiG ₂ ) n - (OSiG _b R ' ₂ - _b ) m -O-SiG 3 -a-R' _a (Si-II),

contain, in which means:

G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CHb, -CH ₃ , -O-CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -O-

CH2CH2CH3, -CH 2 CH ₂ CH 3, -0-CH (CH _{3) 2,} -CH (CH _{3) 2,} -O-CH2CH2CH2CH3, - CH2CH2CH2CH3, -0-CH ₂ CH (CH ₃₎ 2, -CH ₂ CH ( CH ₃ ) 2, -O-CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , - CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH _3, -O-C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ ;

 a is a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0;

 b is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,

 m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,

- R ^' is a monovalent radical selected from

o -QN (R ") - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R") 2

o -QN (R ") ₂

o -QN ⁺ (R ") ₃ A- o -QN ⁺ H (R") ₂ A- o -QN ⁺ H ₂ (R ") A- o -QN (R") - CH 2 -CH 2 -N ⁺ R "H ₂ A,

where each Q is a chemical bond, -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C (CH ₃ ) ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ C (CH ₃ ) 2, -CH (CH ₃ ) 2 ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₂ -,

R "represents identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH 2 -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the Ci-20-alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , - CH ( CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H 3, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) 2, -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from chloride, Bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-IIa) (CH ₃ ) 3 Si - [0-Si (CH ₃ ) 2] n [OSi (CH ₃ )] m -OSi (CH ₃ ) 3 (Si-Ila),

CH ₂ CH (CH 3) CH ₂ NH (CH ₂ ) 2 NH 2

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes. These silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration. Particular preference is also given to compositions according to the invention which are an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-IIb)

R- [Si (CH ₃ ) 2-O] ni [Si (R) -O] m- [Si (CH ₃ ) 2] n 2 -R (Si-Ilb),

wherein R is -OH, -O-CH3 or a -CHb group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150, wherein the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These silicones are referred to as amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

Regardless of which amino-functional silicones are employed, agents according to the invention which contain an amino-functional silicone whose amine number is above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g, are preferred , The amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.

 Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0, 5 to 5 wt.% Amino-functional silicone (s) included.

The silicones described above have a backbone composed of -Si-O-Si units. Of course, these Si-O-Si units may also be interrupted by carbon chains. Appropriate molecules are accessible by chain extension reactions and are preferably used in the form of silicone-in-water emulsions. Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-IV

R 3 Si- [0-SiR 2] x- (CH2) n- [0-SiR _2] y-0-SiR3 (Si-IV),

in which R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the Ci-20-alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H 3, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) 2, -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , x and y are each a number of 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and in particular 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and in particular stands for 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.

 The silicones are preferably water-soluble. Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one water-soluble silicone.

For aesthetic reasons, "clear" products are often preferred by consumers, hair treatment agents which are preferred according to the invention are therefore transparent or translucent, transparent or translucent in the context of the present invention means a composition which has an NTU value below 100. The NTU (Nephelometry Turbidity Unit) value is a fluid turbidity measurement unit used in water treatment and is the unit of turbidity of a fluid measured with a calibrated nephelometer.

 The compositions according to the invention have advantageous properties and also confer advantageous properties on the hair treated with them. In particular, hair and scalp treatment benefits have been observed, which go beyond the advantages of the oligopeptides or proteolipids alone. Thus, hair treatment compositions according to the invention increase the elasticity of the hair treated with them and lead to an inner-structural strengthening of the hair fibers, which is e.g. reflected in higher melting temperatures in differential thermal analysis.

 There is also an improvement in wet and dry combabilities and prevention of premature splitting in the treated hair. On the skin and in particular the scalp, the compositions according to the invention cause an increase in the elasticity and, surprisingly, sebum-regulating effects. The visual impression of "greasy" skin or hair is thus avoided or weakened.

 Another object of the present invention is a method for improving at least one of the properties

 Tensile strength of keratinic fibers, especially human hair;

 Stabilizing the moisture balance of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair;

 Combability of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair;

 Delaying the aging process of keratinic fibers, especially human hair;

 Restructurability of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, during and after the perming process;

Reduction in elasticity of keratinic fibers, especially human hair, when damaged by atmospheric agents in which a hair treatment composition containing - in each case based on its weight - a) 0.0001 to 10 wt .-% of at least one oligopeptide, the at least one amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu

 wherein the amino group may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated,

 b) 0.0001 to 10% by weight of at least one proteolipid of the formula (I)

 in the

 R 1 is a straight-chain hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 22 C atoms,

R2 is - (CH ₂ ) y-CH ₃ where y = 0 to 22,

 Y is -H or -OH.

 X- for a physiologically acceptable anion,

 Hy for an oligopeptide residue from keratin hydrolyzate and

 x stands for values from 0 to 22,

applied to the keratin fibers, left there for 5 seconds to 10 minutes and then rinsed out.

 With respect to further preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention mutatis mutandis applies to the means of the invention.

Claims

 claims:

 1 . Hair treatment compositions containing - in each case based on its weight - a) 0.0001 to 10 wt .-% of at least one oligopeptide, the at least one amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu

 wherein the amino group may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated

 b) a proteolipid of the formula (I)

 in the

 R 1 is a straight-chain hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 22 C atoms,

R2 is - (CH ₂ ) y-CH ₃ where y = 0 to 22,

 Y is -H or -OH.

 X- for a physiologically acceptable anion,

 Hy for an oligopeptide residue from keratin hydrolyzate and

 x stands for values from 0 to 22.

 Hair treatment composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the oligopeptide comprises 5 to 15 amino acids, preferably 6 to 13 amino acids, more preferably 7 to 12 amino acids and especially 8, 9 or 10 amino acids and a molecular weight of 650 to 3000 Da, preferably 750 to 2500 Da, more preferably from 850 to 2000 Da and in particular from 1000 to 1600 Da.

Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the oligopeptide Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile

 wherein the amino group may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.

4. hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the oligopeptide at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu

 wherein the amino groups are free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated,

5. Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it 0.0005 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 6 wt .-%, more preferably 0.005 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0 , 01 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-% of at least one proteolipid of the formula (la)

 in the

- X is selected from Ch, Br, Vi SC ^{2 "} , V ₃ PC ^3"

6. hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it 0.0005 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 6 wt .-%, more preferably 0.005 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0 , 01 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-% at least a proteolipid of the formula (Ib) (Ib) in the

- X is selected from Cl ^", Br, _^1/2 S0 ₄ ² -, V ₃ P0 ₄ ³

 7. hair treatment composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it 0.0005 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 6 wt .-%, more preferably 0.005 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0 , 01 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-% of at least one proteolipid of the formula (Ic)

 in the

X is selected from Ch, Br, Vi SC ^{2 "} , V ₃ PC ^3" ,

 m for numbers from 9 to 23,

 n for the number of amino acids in the keratin hydrolyzate, preferably for numbers from 3 to 12,

R ^'represents the side chains of the amino acids in the keratin hydrolyzate, where R ^' may be different in each repeating unit.

 8. hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it

- Based on its weight - 0.5 to 70 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 60 wt .-%, more preferably 2.5 to 35 wt .-% and in particular 5 to 25 wt .-% of anionic (s) and or nonionic and / or cationic and / or amphoteric surfactant (s).

 9. hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it

0.05 to 7.5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3.5% by weight and in particular 0.25 to 2, based on its weight, 5% by weight of cationic polymer (s), with preferred cationic polymer (s) being selected

 Poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) (INCI: Polyquaternium-37) and / or;

 quaternized cellulose derivatives (INCI: Polyquaternium 10) and / or cationic alkyl polyglycosides and / or

cationized honey and / or cationic guar derivatives and / or

 polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and / or

 Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate and / or

 Vinylpyrrolidone-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid copolymers and / or quaternized polyvinyl alcohol and / or

 Polyquaternium 2 and / or

 Polyquaternium-7 and / or

 Polyquaternium 17 and / or

 Polyquaternium 18 and / or

 Polyquaternium 24 and / or

 Polyquaternium 27.

 10. A method for improving at least one of the properties

 Tensile strength of keratinic fibers, especially human hair;

 Stabilizing the moisture balance of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair;

 Combability of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair;

 Delaying the aging process of keratinic fibers, especially human hair;

 Restructurability of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, during and after the perming process;

 Reducing the decrease in elasticity of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair when damaged by atmospheric agents, characterized in that a hair treatment composition containing - in each case by weight - a) 0.0001 to 10 wt .-% of at least one oligopeptide containing at least one amino acid sequence Glu Glu-Glu

wherein the amino group may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated,

b) from 0.0001 to 10% by weight of at least proteolipid of the formula (I)

 in the

 R 1 is a straight-chain hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 22 C atoms,

R2 is - (CH ₂ ) y-CH ₃ where y = 0 to 22,

 Y is -H or -OH.

 X- for a physiologically acceptable anion,

 Hy for an oligopeptide residue from keratin hydrolyzate and

 x stands for values from 0 to 22,

applied to the keratin fibers, left there for 5 seconds to 10 minutes and then rinsed out.