WO2015048945A1

WO2015048945A1 - Performance-enhanced hair treatment composition

Info

Publication number: WO2015048945A1
Application number: PCT/DE2014/200063
Authority: WO
Inventors: Erik Schulze Zur Wiesche; Melanie Giesen
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2013-10-01
Filing date: 2014-02-14
Publication date: 2015-04-09
Also published as: DE112014004534A5; DE102013219920A1

Abstract

The present invention provides hair treatment compositions comprising – based in each case on the weight thereof – 0.0001% to 10% by weight of at least one oligopeptide having at least one Glu-Glu-Glu amino acid sequence of the formula (I), where the amino group may be free or protonated and the carboxyl groups may be free or deprotonated, and 0.0001% to 10% by weight of at least one compound selected from L-carnitine and/or the carnitine derivatives acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and especially L-carnitine tartrate. In these compositions, L-carnitine and/or carnitine derivatives and particular oligopeptides have mutually beneficial positive effects on the hair and the hair follicle.

Description

"Performance Enhanced Hair Treatment Products"

The invention relates to hair treatment compositions, in particular so-called conditioners, with a combination of active ingredients for gentle and effective hair care.

Not least due to the heavy use of hair, for example by dyeing or perming, as well as by the cleaning of the hair with shampoos and by environmental pollution, the importance of care products with the longest possible effect increases. Such care products affect the natural structure and properties of the hair. Thus, for example, the wet and dry combability of the hair, the hold and the fullness of the hair can be optimized or the hair can be protected from increased splits following such treatments.

It has therefore long been customary to subject the hair to a special aftertreatment. In this case, the hair is treated with special active ingredients, for example quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers, usually in the form of a rinse. Depending on the formulation, this treatment improves the combability, the hold and the fullness of the hair and reduces the splitting rate.

The use of special oligopeptides for the care of keratinic fibers, for example, from

WO2010 / 026010 A1. There, in particular, oligopeptides with the sequence Tyr-Glu

Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu is particularly suitable for hair care.

The use of L-carnitine and its derivatives in hair cosmetics is widely known, e.g. from EP

1 539 088 A1 and WO2008 / 028895 A1. Purine derivatives, especially caffeine, are also often used in hair treatment compositions, e.g. described in EP 1 996 150 A1.

The use of pea extracts to stimulate hair follicles is disclosed in FR 2 971 159 A1, and its antioxidant activity is also described, e.g. in EP 2 588 075 A1.

There is still the need to active ingredients or combinations of active ingredients for cosmetic

To provide agents with good care properties and good biodegradability.

Especially in dye-containing and / or electrolyte-containing formulations, there is a need for additional nourishing active ingredients which can be easily incorporated into known formulations and are not weakened in their action due to incompatibilities with other ingredients.

It has now been found that L-carnitine, and / or certain carnitine derivatives and certain oligopeptides enhance their positive effect on the hair and the hair follicle.

A first subject of the present invention are hair treatment compositions containing - in each case based on their weight - a) 0.0001 to 10 wt .-% of at least one oligopeptide, the at least one amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu

wherein the amino group may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated

b) 0.0001 to 10 wt .-% of at least one compound selected from L-carnitine, and / or the carnitine derivatives acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl

Carnitine and in particular L-carnitine tartrate.

In this formula as well as in the formulas below, the parenthetized hydrogen atom of the amino group, as well as the parenthetical group of the acid function, means that the groups concerned may be present as such (then an oligopeptide having the relevant number of amino acids as shown (in the above) Formula) or that the amino acid sequence is present in an oligopeptide, which comprises more amino acids - depending on where the other (s) amino acid (s) is / are bound, the parent compound of the above formula by the / the other amino acid residue For the purposes of the present invention, hair treatment compositions are, for example, hair shampoos, hair conditioners, conditioning shampoos, hair sprays, hair rinses, hair treatments, hair wraps, hair tonics, perming solutions, hair dye shampoos, hair dyes, hair fixatives, hair dressings, hair styling preparations, hair waving compositions. Lotions, foams tigers, hair gels, hair waxes or combinations thereof. In view of the fact that men often shy away from the use of several different agents and / or several application steps, means according to the invention are preferably agents which the man applies anyway. Preferred agents according to the invention are therefore shampoos, conditioners or hair tonics. The hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain, by weight, 0.0001 to 10% by weight of at least one oligopeptide containing at least one amino acid residue Glu-Glu-Glu, i. has at least three consecutive glutamic acids.

Oligopeptides in the sense of the present application are acid amide-like linked by peptide bonds condensation products of amino acids comprising at least 3 and a maximum of 25 amino acids

In hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention, the oligopeptide comprises 5 to 15 amino acids, preferably 6 to 13 amino acids, particularly preferably 7 to 12 amino acids and in particular 8, 9 or 10 amino acids.

Depending on whether additional amino acids are bound to the sequence Glu-Glu-Glu and depending on the species These amino acids may vary the molecular weight of the oligopeptide contained in the agents according to the invention. Hair treatment compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide has a molecular weight of from 650 to 3000 Da, preferably from 750 to 2500 Da, particularly preferably from 850 to 2000 Da and in particular from 1000 to 1600 Da.

In summary, preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide comprises 5 to 15 amino acids, preferably 6 to 13 amino acids, more preferably 7 to 12 amino acids and especially 8, 9 or 10 amino acids and a molecular weight of 650 to 3000 Da, preferably 750 to 2500 Da, more preferably from 850 to 2000 Da and in particular from 1000 to 1600 Da.

As can be seen from the preferred number of amino acids in the oligopeptides and the preferred molecular weight range, it is preferred to use oligopeptides which do not consist solely of the three glutamic acids but have further amino acids bound to this sequence. These other amino acids are preferably selected from certain amino acids, while certain other representatives are less preferred in the present invention.

Thus, it is preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain no methionine. It is further preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain no cysteine and / or cystine. It is further preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain no aspartic acid and / or asparagine. It is further preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain no serine and / or threonine. In contrast, it is preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain tyrosine. It is further preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain leucine. It is further preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain isoleucine. It is further preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain arginine. It is further preferred if the oligopeptides used in the agents according to the invention contain valine. Particularly preferred oligopeptides or amino acid sequences contained in the preferred oligopeptides are described below:

A particularly preferred oligopeptide additionally contains tyrosine, which is preferably linked via its acid function to the Glu-Glu-Glu sequence. Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in them has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu, where the amino group may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated. Another particularly preferred oligopeptide additionally contains isoleucine, which is preferably linked to the Glu-Glu-Glu sequence via its amino function. Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in them has at least one amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile, where the amino- Group free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated. Oligopeptides which have both the abovementioned amino acids (tyrosine and isoleucine) are preferred according to the invention. Hair treatment agents according to the invention in which the oligopeptide contained in them has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile are particularly preferred, the amino group being free or protonated and the carboxy groups being free or deprotonated.

Further preferred oligopeptides additionally contain arginine, which is preferably bound to isoleucine

Hair treatment composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in them has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg, wherein the amino groups are free or protonated and the carboxy groups are free or deprotonated may be present.

Still further preferred oligopeptides additionally contain valine, which is preferably bound to the arginine. Further preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in them has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val, wherein the amino groups are free or protonated and the carboxy groups are free or deprotonated can.

Still further preferred oligopeptides additionally contain leucine, which is preferably bound to the valine. Further preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in them has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu, wherein the amino groups are free or protonated and the carboxy groups are free or deprotonated may be present.

Particularly preferred oligopeptides additionally contain leucine, which is preferably bound to the tyrosine. Further preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in them has at least one amino acid sequence Leu-Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu, wherein the amino groups are free or protonated and the carboxy groups are free or may be present deprotonated.

Very particular preference is given to compositions according to the invention containing at least two oligopeptides which satisfy the abovementioned criteria but differ from one another. For example, hair treatment agents containing at least two mutually different oligopetides A and B, both containing the amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu, are preferred.

Such mutually different oligopeptides A and B correspond to each other in that they carry three consecutive Glu amino acids in their amino acid sequence, but have differences in the upstream or downstream amino acids. Preference is given to mutually different peptides with partial agreement, which may well be greater than in the above-mentioned three amino acids.

Thus, further preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized by containing at least two mutually different oligopetides A and B, both containing the amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile. Also preferred are hair treatment agents containing at least two mutually different oligopeptides A and B, both containing the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu.

Still further preferred hair treatment agents are characterized by containing at least two mutually different oligopetides A and B both containing the amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg.

Even more preferred hair treatment agents contain at least two mutually different oligopetides A and B, both containing the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile.

Very particularly preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they contain at least two mutually different oligopeptides A and B, both of which contain the amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg.

Also very particularly preferred hair treatment compositions contain at least two mutually different oligopeptides A and B, both of which contain the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg.

Preferably, there is an even greater structural match in the oligopeptides. Thus, hair treatment compositions containing at least two distinct oligopetides A and B, both of which contain the amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val, are further preferred embodiments of the present invention.

Also preferred embodiments are hair treatment compositions containing at least two mutually different oligopeptides A and B, both containing the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val.

Still further preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain at least two mutually different oligopetides A and B, both of which contain the amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu.

Still further preferred hair treatment agents contain at least two mutually different oligopetides A and B, both containing the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu.

Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized by containing at least two mutually different oligopetides A and B, wherein the oligopeptide A has the amino acid sequence Leu-Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu, wherein the amino groups are free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated and the oligopeptide B has the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu, wherein the amino groups are free or protonated and the carboxy groups are free or may be present deprotonated.

Very particularly preferred agents of this last-mentioned embodiment contain, based on the weight of the composition, 0.00001 to 1% by weight of oligopeptide A and 0.00001 to 1% by weight of oligopeptide B.

Further preferred agents of this latter embodiment contain - based on the weight of the composition -0.00005 to 0, 1 wt .-% oligopeptide A and 0.00005 to 0.1 wt .-% Oligopeptide B.

Still further preferred agents of this latter embodiment contain, based on the weight of the agent, from 0.0001 to 0.01% by weight of oligopeptide A and from 0.0001 to 0.001% by weight of oligopeptide B.

It has been found that the use of the aforementioned oligopeptides gives the hair treatment compositions according to the invention outstanding properties. The compositions of the invention impart more resilience to the hairs treated with them, resulting in higher tensile strengths of the keratin fibers and a reduction in elasticity loss, e.g. when damaged by atmospheric agents. In particular, the particularly preferred oligopeptides also stabilize the moisture balance of the keratinischen

Fibers, so that the combability improves and the aging process is delayed.

Another advantage of the compositions of the present invention is that the moldability and restructurability of keratinic fibers treated with them is improved.

The oligopeptides used in the context of the present invention, which satisfy the abovementioned conditions, can advantageously be obtained from keratinic materials. It is preferred according to the invention that these oligopeptides are used in high proportions, based on the total keratinic peptide content of the agents.

It is very particularly preferred that the highest possible proportion of all the keratinic peptides contained in the agent satisfy the abovementioned conditions.

Preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, particularly preferably at least 1% by weight, more preferably at least 2.5% by weight, is even more preferred at least 5% by weight, and in particular at least 10% by weight, of all the keratinic peptides contained in the composition have the amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu.

Further preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, more preferably at least 1% by weight, more preferably at least 2.5% by weight, still further preferably at least 5% by weight and in particular at least 10% by weight of all the keratinic peptides contained in the middle have the amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile.

Still further preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, more preferably at least 1% by weight, more preferably at least 2.5% by weight, still more preferably at least 5% by weight and in particular at least 10% by weight of all the keratinic peptides contained in the middle have the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu.

Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, more preferably at least 1% by weight, more preferably at least 2.5% by weight, still further preferably at least 5% by weight and in particular at least 10% by weight of all the keratinic peptides contained in the middle have the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile. Very particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, more preferably at least 1% by weight, more preferably at least 2.5% by weight, still more preferably at least 5% by weight and in particular at least 10% by weight of all the keratinic peptides contained in the middle have the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg.

Still further preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, more preferably at least 1% by weight, more preferably at least 2.5% by weight, still more preferably at least 5% by weight and in particular at least 10% by weight of all the keratinic peptides contained in the middle have the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val.

Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least 0.1% by weight, preferably at least 0.5% by weight, more preferably at least 1% by weight, more preferably at least 2.5% by weight, still further preferably at least 5% by weight and in particular at least 10% by weight of all the keratinic peptides contained in the middle have the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu.

The abovementioned conditions relate to the total content of the agents according to the invention to peptides which originate from keratinic materials. In addition to the oligopeptides of keratinic origin, of course, other peptides and / or protenihydrolysates can be used, for example from other native sources. For example, the additional use of wheat protein hydrolysates is preferred, see below.

The hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain as the second essential ingredient - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 10 wt .-% of at least one compound selected from L-carnitine, and / or the carnitine derivatives acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L Carnitine citrate, lauroyl L-carnitine and especially L-carnitine tartrate.

The compositions according to the invention may contain L-carnitine and / or an L-carnitine derivative or else a plurality of different L-carnitine derivatives.

L-carnitine or L-carnitine derivatives are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total preparation. Levels of 0.1 to 10 wt% are particularly preferred, amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt% are particularly preferred, and amounts of 1 to 3 wt% are most preferred.

Particularly preferred hair treatment agents are characterized in that they contain 0.0005 to 7.5% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 6% by weight, more preferably 0.005 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.01 to 4% by weight. % and in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-% of at least one compound selected from L-carnitine, and / or the carnitine derivatives acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and especially L-carnitine tartrate.

According to the invention, preferred hair-treatment compositions contain - in each case based on their weight - 0.0002 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 2.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.00075 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by weight, more preferably 0.002 to 0.25 Wt .-% and in particular 0.005 to 0, 1 wt .-% oligopeptide (s) with the

Amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val where the amino groups are free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated,

0.0005 to 7.5% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 6% by weight, more preferably 0.005 to 5

Wt .-%, more preferably 0.01 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0, 1 to 3 wt .-% L-

Carnitine tartrate.

It has been found that the positive properties of the compositions according to the invention can be increased still further, in particular with regard to the positive effects on the hair roots and the inner structural strengthening of the keratin fibers, if the compositions contain purine or purine derivatives.

Hair treatment agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 0.0005 to 7.5% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 6% by weight, more preferably 0.005 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.01 to 4% by weight. % and in particular 0, 1 to 3 wt .-% purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (I)

in which the radicals R, R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from -H, -OH, -NH 2, -SH and the radicals R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ are selected independently of one another from -H, -CH 3 and - CH 2 -CH 3, the following compounds being preferred:

Purine (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Adenine (R ¹ = NH ₂ , R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Guanine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Uric acid (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = OH, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Hypoxanthine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

6-Purethiol (R ¹ = SH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

6-thioguanine (R ¹ = SH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Xanthine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Caffeine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )

Theobromine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = H, R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

Theophylline (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = CH ₃ , R ⁵ = CH ₃ , R ⁶ = H).

Preferred agents according to the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower quantitative ranges. Here, preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 2.5% by weight, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s).

Depending on the desired application of the cosmetic agent may vary the nature and amount of purine derivative. Caffeine has proved particularly useful in hair cosmetic formulations, for example in shampoos and conditioners, preferably in amounts of from 0.005 to 0.25% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight and in particular from 0.01 to 0.05 wt .-% (in each case based on the agent) can be used.

According to the invention preferred hair treatment compositions contain - each based on their weight

- 0.0002 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 2.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.00075 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.002 to 0.25 wt .-% and in particular 0.005 to 0, 1 wt .-% oligopeptide (s) having the amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val wherein the amino groups are free or protonated and the Carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated,

0.0005 to 7.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 6 wt .-%, more preferably 0.005 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.01 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0, 1 to 3 wt % L-carnitine tartrate,

0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 bis

0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% caffeine.

The positive effects on the hair, especially with regard to wet and dry combing and curl retention, can be further enhanced if the compositions contain extracts of peas (Pisum sativum).

Hair treatment agents preferred according to the invention contain from 0.0005 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 6% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 4% by weight and in particular 0, 1 to 3 wt .-% of at least one extract of Pisum sativium. It is highly preferred that all of the above conditions be satisfied simultaneously. Particularly preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention contain - in each case based on their weight

0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% caffeine,

0.0005 to 7.5% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 6% by weight, more preferably 0.005 to 5 Wt .-%, more preferably 0.01 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0, 1 to 3 wt .-% of at least one extract of Pisum sativium.

The agents according to the invention may contain further active ingredients and adjuvants. These are described below.

The agents according to the invention preferably additionally comprise at least one emulsifier or a surfactant, surface-active substances being referred to as surfactants or as emulsifiers, depending on the field of use, and selected from anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, ampholytic and nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers.

Hair treatment compositions which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.5 to 70% by weight, preferably from 1 to 60% by weight and in particular from 5 to 25% by weight of anionic and / or nonionic (s) and / or cationic and / or amphoteric surfactant (s).

Zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are those surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one COO ⁽⁾ or -SO 3 ⁽⁾ group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl-3 carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants and emulsifiers are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which, apart from a Cs-C24-alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SCbH group and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C12-C18 acylsarcosine.

Nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Also usable according to the invention are cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides. The long alkyl chains of these surfactants preferably have 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as. In cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride. Further preferred cationic surfactants are the imidazolium compounds known under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and Quaternium-83.

Very particular preference is given to compositions according to the invention which additionally contain fatty alcohol (s) and / or fatty alcohol alkoxylate (s), preferably C 12-22 fatty alcohol (s) and / or C 12-22 fatty alcohol ethoxylate (s) having 10 to 30 EO units, especially preferably Ci6-is fatty alcohol (s) and / or C16-18 fatty alcohol ethoxylate (s) having 12 to 20 EO units, preferably in amounts of 5 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 7.5 to 17.5 wt .-% and in particular from 10 to 15 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the composition.

In summary, hair-treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which contain, by weight, from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 17.5% by weight and in particular from 5 to 15% by weight of anionic surfactant ( e), particularly preferably fatty alcohol ether sulfates of the formula

H ₃ C- (CH ₂ ) _n - (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _k - OSO 3 - M ⁺

in which n represents values of from 5 to 21, preferably from 7 to 19, particularly preferably from 9 to 17 and in particular from 1 to 13 and k for values of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, preferably represent 1, 2 or 3 and especially 2, and M is a cation selected from the group Na ^+, K ⁺ NH4 ^+, Mg ^2+, Zn ²⁺ 14, preferably Na ⁺ are, ,

Preferred hair treatment agents according to the invention are further characterized in that they additionally contain amphoteric surfactant (s), preferably from the groups of N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N Alkyl taurines, N-alkyl sarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate C12 - C18 acylsarcosine, N- Alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each having 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat, which under the INCI name Cocam compounds which are known under the INCI name Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, preferred agents comprising the amphoteric surfactant (s) in amounts of from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 2.5 to 12 Wt .-% and in particular from 5 to 10 wt .-%, each based on the total agent included.

As a further optional constituent, the agents according to the invention may contain from 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one polymer from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers.

Cationic or amphoteric polymers are to be understood as meaning polymers which have a group in the main and / or side chain which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. According to the invention, "permanently cationic" refers to those polymers which regardless of the pH of the agent have a cationic group. These are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C 1-4 hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable.

In addition to cationic polymers or in their place, the agents according to the invention can also contain amphoteric polymers. These additionally have at least one negatively charged group in the molecule and are also referred to as zwitterionic polymers.

Preferably, the polymer or polymers are used within narrower ranges. Thus, preference is given to compositions according to the invention which, based on their weight, are from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.2 to 3.5% by weight and in particular from 0.25 to 2.5% by weight of amphoteric polymer (s).

Regardless of whether the agents contain amphoteric polymers or not, further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, based on their weight. -%, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% cationic (s) polymer (s) included.

In summary, hair-treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which, based on their weight, are from 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, preferably from 0 to 1 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.2 to 3.5% by weight and in particular from 0.25 to 2.5% by weight of cationic polymer (s), preferred cationic polymer (s) being / are selected from

Poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammoniumchlorid) (INCI: Polyquaternium-37) and / or quaternized cellulose derivatives (INCI: Polyquaternium 10) and / or cationic alkylpolyglycosides and / or cationised honey and / or cationic guar derivatives and / or polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and copolymers thereof Esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and / or copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate and / or vinylpyrrolidone-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid copolymers and / or quaternized polyvinyl alcohol and / or Polyquaternium 2 and / or Polyquaternium-7 and / or Polyquaternium 17th and / or Polyquaternium 18 and / or Polyquaternium 24 and / or Polyquaternium 27.

In addition to the cationic polymers or in their place, the agents of the invention may contain amphoteric polymers.

As a further ingredient, the agents according to the invention may with particular preference contain one or more amino acids. Particularly preferred amino acids which can be used according to the invention are from the group glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, β Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-carnitine, L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-trans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline (L-pyroglutamic acid), L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, whereby both the individual amino acids and mixtures can be used.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges. Here, according to the invention preferred hair treatment compositions are characterized in that they as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 1, 5 Wt .-%, more preferably 0.075 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0, 1 to 0.25 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably from the group of glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.

Another preferred group of ingredients of the compositions of the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors. These are described below:

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

In summary, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain as care substance - based on its weight - 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.2 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.25 to 3.5 wt .-% , more preferably 0.5 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% vitamins and / or pro-vitamins and / or vitamin precursors containing, preferably, the groups A, B, C, E, Panthenol ((±) -2,4-dihydroxy-A / - (3-hydroxypropyl) -3,3-dimethylbutyramide, provitamin Bs) and / or pantothenic acid (vitamin B3, vitamin Bs) and / or niacin, niacinamide or nicotinamide (vitamin B3) and / or L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and / or thiamine (vitamin B1) and / or riboflavin (vitamin B2, vitamin G) and / or biotin (vitamin B7, vitamin H) and / or folic acid (vitamin B9, vitamin B _c or vitamin M) and / or vitamin Ββ and / or vitamin B12.

To improve the elasticity and strengthen the internal structure of the hair treated with the agents according to the invention, the compositions according to the invention may contain purine and / or purine derivatives. In particular, the combination of purine and / or purine derivatives with ubiquinones and / or plastoquinones results in that the hairs treated with appropriate agents show, inter alia, higher measured values in differential thermal analysis and improved wet and dry combabilities.

As a further component, the agents according to the invention may contain at least one carbohydrate from the group of monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides. Here are preferred hair treatment compositions according to the invention characterized in that they as Nursing material - based on its weight - 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 4.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 4 wt .-%, more preferably 0.5 to 3, 5 wt .-% and in particular 0.75 to 2.5 wt .-% carbohydrate (s) selected from monosaccharides, disaccharides and / or oligosaccharides, preferred carbohydrates are selected from Monosachhariden, in particular D-ribose and / or D. Xylose and / or L-arabinose and / or D-glucose and / or D-mannose and / or D-galactose and / or D-fructose and / or sorbose and / or L-fucose and / or L-rhamnose disaccharides, in particular sucrose and / or maltose and / or lactose and / or trehalose and / or cellobiose and / or gentiobiose and / or isomaltose. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain based on their weight

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose.

As already mentioned, preferred agents according to the invention contain (a) amino acid (s).

Particularly preferred amino acids which can be used according to the invention are from the group glycine, alanine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, tryptophan, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, asparagine, glutamine, serine, threonine, cysteine, methionine, lysine, arginine, histidine, β Alanine, 4-aminobutyric acid (GABA), betaine, L-cystine (L-Cyss), L-carnitine, L-citrulline, L-theanine, 3 ', 4'-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-dopa), 5'-hydroxy-L-tryptophan, L-homocysteine, S-methyl-L-methionine, S-allyl-L-cysteine-sulfoxide (L-alliin), L-frans-4-hydroxyproline, L-5-oxoproline ( L-pyroglutamic acid), L-phosphoserine, creatine, 3-methyl-L-histidine, L-ornithine, whereby both the individual amino acids and mixtures can be used.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino acids in narrower quantitative ranges. Here, preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they additionally contain from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably from 0 to 15% by weight and in particular from 0 to 15% by weight , 2 to 0.5 wt .-% amino acid (s), preferably (one) amino acid (s) from the group glycine and / or alanine and / or valine and / or lysine and / or leucine and / or threonine.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain based on their weight

0.005 to 0.015 wt .-% caffeine and 0.75 to 1, 5 wt .-% glucose monohydrate and

0.1 to 0.25% by weight of glycine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of glycine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of glycine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of alanine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of alanine, 0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of alanine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of glucose monohydrate and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of valine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of sucrose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of valine,

0.005 to 0.015% by weight of caffeine and 0.75 to 1.5% by weight of fructose and 0.1 to 0.25% by weight of valine.

Agents preferred according to the invention contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0, 1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of at least one 2-furanone derivative of the formula (Fur I) and / or of the formula (Fur-II)

in which the radicals R to R ^{0 are} independently of one another

Hydrogen, -OH, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical,

--C2 - C4 - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical,

--C2 - C4 - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,

--C2 - C4 - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triaminocarbon radical,

a group -OR, with R as a -C 2 -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, -C 2 -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,

a group -NR ² R ¹³ , where R ² and R ^{3 are} each independently of one another hydrogen, a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical,

a group -COOR ⁴ , where R ⁴ is hydrogen, a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 - C ₄ - saturated mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 - C ₄ - saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di - or triamine hydrocarbon residue,

a group -CONR ⁵ R ¹⁶ , where R ⁵ and R ⁶ each represent hydrogen, methyl, a -C 2 -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 -C ₄ - saturated mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triamine hydrocarbon radical,

a group -COR ¹⁶ , wherein R ⁶ represents a methyl, a C ₂ -C ₄ saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated one , branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxyhydrocarbyl radical, a --C 2 -C ₄ -saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triamine hydrocarbon radical,

a group -OCOR ⁷ , where R ⁷ represents a methyl, a C 2 -C 30 -saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 -C 30 -saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyhydroxy hydrocarbon radical, a -C 2 -C 30 -saturated or mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-, tri- or polyamino hydrocarbon radical,

with the proviso that in the case when R ⁷ and R ^{8 are} -OH and at the same time R ⁹ or R ^{0 is} hydrogen, the remaining group R ⁹ or R ^{0 is} not a dihydroxyethyl. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the teaching according to the invention is used as the compound according to the formula (Fur-I)

(R) - (-) - 4-hydroxymethyl-T-butyrolactone and / or

D, L-4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or

(S) - (+) - 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or

R - (-) - 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or

D, L-2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or

S (+) - 2-hydroxy-3,3-dimethyl-γ-butyrolactone and / or

4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethyl-3 (2H) -furanone and / or Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarbonsäure and / or

Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furancarboxylic acid, Na salt and / or

Tetrahydro-5-oxo-2-furanecarboxylic acid, K salt and / or

2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone and / or

Dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3 / - /) - furanone

used. In a very particularly preferred embodiment of the teaching according to the invention is used as a compound according to the formula (Fur-I) dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) - furanone.

Another, more preferably usable care substance which has activating properties is taurine. According to the invention, preferred hair-treatment compositions contain as care substance - based on their weight - 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 12.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, more preferably 0, 1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 5% by weight of taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid).

Preference is also given to the additional use of bisabolol and / or bisabolol oxides in the agents according to the invention. Here, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.02 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0, 1 to 1, 5 wt % Bisabolol and / or oxides of bisabolol, preferably (-) - alpha-bisabolol.

The compositions of the invention may contain, in addition to the oligopeptide (s), the carnitine derivative (s) and optional other ingredients, other substances that prevent, ameliorate or cure hair loss. In particular, a content of hair root stabilizing agents is advantageous. These substances are described below:

Propecia (finasteride) is currently the only product approved worldwide that has been proven efficacy and tolerability in numerous studies. Propecia causes less DHT to form from testosterone.

Minoxidil is probably the oldest proven hair restorer with or without supplemental additives. For the treatment of hair loss, it may only be used for external application. There are hair lotions containing 2% -5% minoxidil, as well as gels with up to 15% minoxidil. The effectiveness increases with the dosage, in hair waters Minoxidil is only up to 5% share soluble. In many countries, hair tonic with up to 2% minoxidil content is available without prescription.

To combat the hormonal influences on the hair follicles spironolactone in the form of hair tonic and in combination with minoxidil can be used for external application. Spironolactone acts as an androgen receptor blocker, ie. the binding of DHT to the hair follicles is prevented. In summary, cosmetic agents according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of hair root stabilizing substances, in particular minoxidil and / or finasteride and / or ketoconazole.

Additional antidandruff active ingredients (for example climbazole, piroctone olamine or zinc pyrithione) are used to purposefully reduce the amount of dandruff causing the dandruff, to restore the normal bacterial count to the normal percentage and to reduce the scaling to the physiological level. However, laboratory tests have shown that the different species representatives of Pityrosporum ovale react differently to the antidandruff active ingredients. In order to maximally combat all dandruff is therefore a combination of anti-dandruff active ingredients most successful.

In summary, hair treatment compositions according to the invention are preferred which additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of antidandruff active ingredients, in particular piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-tri-methylpentyl) -pyridine-2 ( 1 H) -one, compound with 2-aminoethanol, 1: 1) and / or zinc pyrithione and / or selenium sulfide and / or climbazole and / or salicylic acid or fumaric acid.

The compositions according to the invention may furthermore contain all active substances, additives and auxiliaries known for such preparations. In many cases, the agents contain at least one surfactant, wherein in principle both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants are suitable. In many cases, however, it has proved to be advantageous to select the surfactants from anionic, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants. These surfactants have been described in detail above.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain emulsifiers (F). Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the emulsifiers in amounts of 0.1-25% by weight, in particular 0.5-15% by weight, based on the total agent.

The compositions according to the invention may preferably contain at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18. Nonionic emulsifiers having an HLB value of 10 to 15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention. It has furthermore proven to be advantageous if, in addition to the polymer (s) from the group of cationic and / or amphoteric polymers, further polymers (G) are contained in the agents according to the invention. In a preferred embodiment, therefore, further polymers are added to the compositions according to the invention, both anionic and nonionic polymers having proven effective.

It is also possible according to the invention that the preparations comprise a plurality of, in particular two, different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.

The other polymers (G) are contained in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0, 1 to 5, in particular from 0, 1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly preferred.

Furthermore, in a preferred embodiment of the invention, an agent according to the invention may also contain UV filters (I). The UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters which can be used in the cosmetics sector and whose absorption maximum is in the UVA (315-400 nm), in the UVB (280-315 nm) or in the UVC (<280 nm) range are suitable. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The UV filters (I) are usually contained in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, based on the total agent. Levels of 0.4-2.5 wt .-% are preferred.

The compositions of the invention may further contain a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J). Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three O to C4-alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5, and in particular from 0.1 to 3,% by weight.

Finally, the compositions according to the invention may also contain plant extracts (L).

Usually these extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. However, in individual cases it may also be preferred to prepare the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or leaves of the plant.

The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng and ginger root. As extractant for the preparation of said plant extracts water, alcohols and Al mixtures thereof can be used. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in admixture with water, are preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

Furthermore, it may be preferred to use in the compositions according to the invention mixtures of several, especially two, different plant extracts.

A particularly preferred group of ingredients are the silicones.

Inventive preferred agents are characterized in that they m at least one

Silicone, preferably a silicone, which is selected from:

(i) polyalkyl siloxanes, polyaryl siloxanes, polyalkylaryl siloxanes which are volatile or nonvolatile, straight chain, branched or cyclic, crosslinked or uncrosslinked;

(ii) Polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from:

a) substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups;

b) (per) fluorinated groups;

c) thiol groups;

d) carboxylate groups;

e) hydroxylated groups;

f) alkoxylated groups;

g) acyloxyalkyl ring;

h) amphoteric groups;

i) bisulfite groups;

j) hydroxyacylamino groups;

k) carboxy groups;

I) sulfonic acid groups; and

m) sulphate or thiosulphate groups;

linear polysiloxane (A) - polyoxyalkylene (B) - block copolymers of the type (AB) _n with n>3;

grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone to which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least one chain end; (v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone to which at least one organic macromer not containing silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends ;

or their mixtures.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention comprise the silicone (s) preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.25 to 7% by weight and in particular from 0.5 to 5% by weight. , in each case based on the total mean.

Preferred silicones are described below.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-I

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0-Si (CH ₃ ) 2] x -O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3 (Si-I),

in which x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.

These silicones are called DIMETHICONE according to the INCI nomenclature. In the context of the present invention, as the silicone of the formula Si-1, the compounds are preferably:

02/13/2014

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) 3 (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] -OS (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH3) 3Si-0- (CH ₃₎ 2 Si-0-Si (CH ₃₎ 3 (CH ₃₎ ₃ Si- [0- (CH ₃₎ ₂ Si] -OS (CH ₃₎ ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ S 1 ₂ - O-S (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] -OS (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ S 1 ₃ - O-S (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] -OS (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ S μ-o-s (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si- [O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] -OS (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ S] ₅ -O-S (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] -OS (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ S] e-O-S (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] -OS (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ S 1 ₇ - O-S (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] -OS (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ S 18-O-S (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] -OS (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ S 1 ₉ - 0 -S (CH ₃ ) ₃ (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [O - (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂₀ (CH ₃ ) ₃

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si - [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ S] io-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃

where (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ , (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si-O- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si-O-Si (CH ₃ ) ₃ and / or (CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [0- (CH ₃ ) ₂ Si] ₂ -O-Si (CH ₃ ) _{3 are} particularly preferred.

Of course, mixtures of o.g. Silicones may be included in the compositions of the invention.

Preferred silicones can be used according to the invention have viscosities at 20 ° C of 0.2 to 2 mm ² s ^_, wherein silicones with viscosities of from 0.5 to 1 mm ² s are particularly preferred ^_. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention contain one or more amino-functional silicones. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-IIa)

(CH ₃ ) ₃ Si [0-Si (CH ₃ ) ₂ ] _n [OSi (CH ₃ )] m -OSi (CH ₃ ) ₃ (Si-Ila),

I

CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes. These silicones are referred to as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

Particular preference is also given to compositions according to the invention which are an amino-functional silicone of the formula (Si-IIb)

R- [Si (CH ₃₎ ₂ -0] m [Si (R) -0] m- [Si (CH ₃₎ _2] _n2 -R (Si-IIb),

(CH ₂ ) ₃ NH (CH ₂ ) ₂ NH ₂

in which R is -OH, -O-CH ₃ or a -CH ₃ group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150 , where the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These silicones are referred to as amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration. 02/13/2014

Regardless of which amino-functional silicones are employed, agents according to the invention which contain an amino-functional silicone whose amine number is above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and in particular above 0.4 meq / g, are preferred , The amine number stands for the milliequivalents of amine per gram of the amino-functional silicone. It can be determined by titration and also expressed in mg KOH / g.

Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that, based on their weight, they contain 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0, 5 to 5 wt.% Amino-functional silicone (s) included.

The cydic dimethicones designated as CYCLOMETHICONE according to INCI are also preferably used according to the invention. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-III

rO-Si (CH ₃ ) 2lx- (Si-I ll)

in which x is a number from 3 to 200, preferably from 3 to 10, more preferably from 30 to 7 and in particular 3, 4, 5 or 6.

The silicones described above have a backbone composed of -Si-O-Si units. Of course, these Si-O-Si units may also be interrupted by carbon chains. Appropriate molecules are accessible by chain extension reactions and are preferably used in the form of silicone-in-water emulsions. Agents which are likewise preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula Si-IV

R ₃ Si [0-SiR 2] x- (CH ₂ ) n- [0-SiR 2] _y -O-SiR ₃ (Si-IV),

in which R is identical or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, -CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) Ph, the Ci-20-alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H 3, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) 2, -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ , x and y represent a number from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 10, more preferably from 0 to 7 and especially 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6, and n is a number from 0 to 10, preferably from 1 to 8 and especially for 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 stands.

The silicones are preferably water-soluble. Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one water-soluble silicone. 02/13/2014

For aesthetic reasons, "clear" products are often preferred by consumers, hair treatment agents which are preferred according to the invention are therefore transparent or translucent, transparent or translucent in the context of the present invention means a composition which has an NTU value below 100. The NTU (Nephelometry Turbidity Unit) value is a fluid turbidity measurement unit used in water treatment and is the unit of turbidity of a fluid measured with a calibrated nephelometer.

The compositions according to the invention have advantageous properties and also confer advantageous properties on the hair treated with them. In particular, in hair and scalp treatment benefits have been observed bvzw the advantages of the oligopeptides. Hyaluronic acid ester go out alone. Thus, hair treatment compositions according to the invention increase the elasticity of the hair treated with them and lead to an inner-structural strengthening of the hair fibers, which is e.g. reflected in higher melting temperatures in differential thermal analysis.

There is also an improvement in wet and dry combabilities and prevention of premature splitting in the treated hair. On the skin and in particular the scalp, the compositions according to the invention cause an increase in the elasticity and, surprisingly, sebum-regulating effects. The visual impression of "greasy" skin or hair is thus avoided or weakened.

Another object of the present invention is a method for improving at least one of the properties

Tensile strength of keratinic fibers, especially human hair;

Stabilizing the moisture balance of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair;

Combability of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair;

Delaying the aging process of keratinic fibers, especially human hair;

Restructurability of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, during and after the perming process;

Reducing the decrease in elasticity of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, when damaged by atmospheric agents in which a hair treatment composition containing - in each case by weight - a) 0.0001 to 10 wt .-% of at least one oligopeptide containing at least one amino acid sequence Glu-Glu -Glu, wherein the amino group is free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be present freely or deprotonated, 02/13/2014

b) 0.0001 to 10 wt .-% of at least one compound selected from L-carnitine, and / or the carnitine derivatives acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and in particular L-carnitine tartrate.

applied to the keratin fibers, left there for 5 seconds to 10 minutes and then rinsed out.

With respect to further preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention mutatis mutandis applies to the means of the invention.

Claims

Patent claims:

1. Hair treatment agent, containing - based on its weight - a) 0.0001 to 10% by weight of at least one oligopeptide which has at least one amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu, the amino group being free or protonated and the carboxy group Groups can be free or deprotonated

b) 0.0001 to 10% by weight of at least one compound selected from L-carnitine and/or the carnitine derivatives acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate, lauroyl-L-carnitine and in particular L-carnitine tartrate.

2. Hair treatment agent according to claim 1, characterized in that the oligopeptide comprises 5 to 15 amino acids, preferably 6 to 13 amino acids, particularly preferably 7 to 12 amino acids and in particular 8, 9 or 10 amino acids and a molecular weight of 650 to 3000 Da, preferably of 750 to 2500 Da, particularly preferably from 850 to 2000 Da and in particular from 1000 to 1600 Da.

3. Hair treatment agent according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the oligopeptide has Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile, the amino group being free or protonated and the carboxy groups being free or deprotonated.

4. Hair treatment agent according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the oligopeptide has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu, the amino groups being free or protonated and the carboxy groups can be free or deprotonated,

5. Hair treatment agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it contains 0.0005 to 7.5% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 6% by weight, more preferably 0.005 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0 .01 to 4% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight of at least one compound selected from L-carnitine and/or the carnitine derivatives acetyl-L-carnitine, L-carnitine fumarate, L-carnitine citrate , lauroyl-L-carnitine and especially L-carnitine tartrate.

6. Hair treatment agent according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it contains 0.0005 to 7.5% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 6% by weight, more preferably 0.005 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0 .01 to 4% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight of purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (I).

02/13/2014

in which the radicals R, R ² and R ³ are independently selected from -H, -OH, -NH2, -SH and the radicals R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ⁶ are independently selected from -H, -CH3 and - CH2-CH3, with the following compounds being preferred:

- Purine (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

- Adenine (R ¹ = NH ₂ , R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

- Guanine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

- Uric acid (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = OH, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

- Hypoxanthine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

- 6-purinthiol (R ¹ = SH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

- 6-thioguanine (R ¹ = SH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

- Xanthine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

- Caffeine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )

- Theobromine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = H, R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)

- Theophylline (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = CH ₃ , R ⁵ = CH ₃ , R ⁶ = H).

7. Hair treatment agent according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it contains 0.0005 to 7.5% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 6% by weight, more preferably 0.005 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0 .01 to 4% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 3% by weight of at least one extract of Pisum sativium.

8. Hair treatment agent according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it

- based on its weight - 0.5 to 70% by weight, preferably 1 to 60% by weight, more preferably 2.5 to 35% by weight and in particular 5 to 25% by weight of anionic(s) and / or nonionic(s) and/or cationic(s) and/or amphoteric(s) surfactant(s).

9. Hair treatment agent according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it

- based on its weight - 0.05 to 7.5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.2 to 3.5% by weight and in particular 0.25 to 2, 5% by weight of cationic polymer(s), with preferred cationic polymer(s) being selected from

Poly(methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) (INCI: Polyquaternium-37) and/or;

quaternized cellulose derivatives (INCI: Polyquaternium 10) and/or cationic alkyl polyglycosides and/or

02/13/2014

cationized honey and/or

cationic guar derivatives and/or

polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid and/or

Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylamino-alkyl acrylate and methacrylate and/or

Vinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazolium methochloride copolymers and/or quaternized polyvinyl alcohol and/or

Polyquaternium 2 and/or

Polyquaternium-7 and/or

Polyquaternium 17 and/or

Polyquaternium 18 and/or

Polyquaternium 24 and/or

Polyquaternium 27.

10. Methods for improving at least one of the properties

Tensile strength of keratin fibers, especially human hair;

Stabilization of the moisture balance of keratin fibers, especially human hair;

Combability of keratin fibers, especially human hair;

delaying the aging process of keratin fibers, especially human hair;

Restructuring ability of keratin fibers, especially human hair, during and after the permanent wave process;

Reduction in the loss of elasticity of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, when damaged by atmospheric influences, characterized in that a hair treatment agent containing - in each case based on its weight - a) 0.0001 to 10% by weight of at least one oligopeptide which has at least one amino acid sequence Glu -Glu-Glu, where the amino group can be free or protonated and the carboxy groups can be free or deprotonated,