Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D1/00—Woven fabrics designed to make specified articles
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
  • D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D03—WEAVING
  • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
  • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
  • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
  • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
  • D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
  • D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments

Definitions

• the present invention is related to denim or fabrics which are called blue jeans.
• the invention is particularly related to the denim fabric obtained by the arrangements of the weft and warp and the meshes provided to be similar to tricot or towel, and thus relates to denim fabric which appearance and wear comfort are obtained.
• this product many advantageous features such as wear comfort, flexibility, double layer fabric feature such as tricot or towel-looking, prevention of contact of indigo dyed yarn with the skin or other clothing, freeness, comfort, etc. are provided.
• Denim or blue jeans termed fabric with a general description are the fabrics woven in various meshes from the yarn made of cotton, polyester, nylon, viscose, lycra and of various unit weight and the warp yarn is dyed blue indigo and the weft undyed (raw).
• the Denim name comes from South France, Rhone Valley, the “Tissu de Nimes”, the Blue jeans name comes from Itailan Riviera, the “Blue de Genes” expressions.
• Blue Jeans are produced from denim fabric dyed with indigo. Jeans become ready to be packed after the cutting, sewing, washing, rinsing, drying, and ironing processes. Washing, which is one of the most important in these processes, gives different colors and effects to the fabric. According to the desired effect to be obtained, jeans undergo various treatments after pre-washing Indigo is the dyestuff produced from the leaves of the "indigofera tinctoria" plant. Indigo, the utilization of which dates back to 1600 BC, was found in India, Indonesia, China and Africa. The blue indigo has gray, green, and red tones. Paint manufacturers are making attempts in different colors with the indigo dye properties.
• the fabric is cleansed for the required materials for weaving and ready-made clothing. After that it is washed with pumice stone until the desired color is obtained.
• This stone has an abrasive effect on the fabric and has an antiadhesive effect for color to stick onto the fabric again.
• the contrast between blue and white is reduced by using chemical processes.
• the chemicals used are increased and the color changes to blue ice.
• bleaching of certain regions is provided by spraying in private cabins.
• JP19930131162 in 1993, a denim fabric and a solution related to its production is described. However an elastic solution providing comfort for the user in wearing is needed.
• the object of the invention starting from the state of the art, is the development of a new 7749 flat/over dye denim fabric in which the existing disadvantages of the structure are removed.
• Another object of the invention is to develop a fabric providing comfort for the user in clothing.
• Another object of the invention is to provide the healthy use of jeans due to the flexible formfitting fabric.
• Another object of the invention is to provide comfort, elasticity, prevention of contact of indigo-dyed fabric to skin or other clothes due to the double-layer cloth feature being tricot or towel-looking, and to provide freeness and comfort.
• Another object of the invention is the developed denim fabric is able to be used on clothing such as pants, shirts, coat etc.
• Another object of the invention is the formation of meshes similar to tricot or towel due to the layout of the warp and wefts, hence the desired appearance and expected cloth comfort of fabric to be obtained.
• the most common fabric pattern design used in denim is classic 3/1 Z twill.
• tricot fabric patterns close to the classic front view 3/1 Z twill view are also seen.
• Figure- 1 is a drawing of the front view of the fabric weave report of a representative application of the invention.
• Figure-2 is a drawing of the back view of the fabric weave report of representative application of the present invention.
• Figure-3 is a drawing of the knitting pattern in a representative application of the invention.
• Figure-4 is the drawing containing the knitting structure in a representative application of the invention
• FIG.-1 and Figure-2 it is the front and rear view of the unit knitting report (pattern) of the inventive fabric.
• the unit report 10 warp yarns (1) and 15 weft yarns (2) conduct differently.
• E1 , E2, E3 ... represents weft yarn (2) in woven fabric.
• A1 , A2, A3 ... represents warp yarn (1) in woven fabric.
• the warp yarn (1) is comprised of 3610 string 20 combed cotton slub 100% cotton yarns. Whole warp string count is 7220.
• the warp yarn are dyed by using deep blue indigo and sulphur dye mixtures in warp dyeing machine and are brought into the weaving after slushing.
• the weft yarn (2) are comprised of 2, 30 combed cotton 44 dtex Core Spun (3.5 elastane inflected) and 1 , 16 ring carded yarn.
• the Flat process is performed on the woven raw fabric in the finishing process (fabric brushing, burning, caustic washing, neutralization, drying, sizing, and finishing and non-shrink finish operations).
• the warp density for the comb 37.5 ⁇ 2 counts/cm
• mechanically woven fabric weft density 33 ⁇ 2 counts/cm
• raw cloth weft density 34 ⁇ 2 counts/cm
• finished fabric weft density 39 ⁇ 2 counts/cm
• finished fabric weight 9.5 ⁇ 0.5 oz/sqyd
• finished fabric width 130 ⁇ 3 cm
• Washed fabric elasticity 40 ⁇ 4 %. Due to the fabric structure, there is stretching in weft direction and transverse direction as in tricot knitted fabric. Yarn counts, fiber types, weft or warp density, color or unshrink
• the type name is 7749 Flat with this process. If this fabric is applied over dye, it is applied in washing step in finishing or later by using various textile dyes (sulphur, indigo etc.). The type name is 7749 over dye with this process. Here color and finishing processes can be diversified unlimitedly.
• the warps numbered A1 - A3 - A4 - A5 - A6 - A8 - A9 - A10 are above, - A2 - A7 are below, E1 weft is hitched on 30 combed cotton 44 dtex core spun.
• the warps A1 - A2 - A3 - A5 - A6 - A7 - A8 - A9 - A10 are above, the warp - A4 is below, E2 weft is filled on 16 Ring carded weft.
• the warps A1 - A2 - A3 - A5 - A6 - A7 - A8 - A10 are above, the - A4 - A9 are below, E3 weft is filled on 30 combed cotton 44 dtex core spun weft.
• A2 - A3 - A4 - A5 - A7 - A8 - A9 - A10 are above, the warps
• the warps A1 - A2 - A3 - A4 - A6 - A7 - A8 - A9 are above, the warps - A5 - A10 are below, the weft E7 is filled on 30 combed cotton 44 dtex core spun weft.
• the warps A1 In the 7 th step, the warps A1 - A2 - A3 - A4 - A6 - A7 - A8 - A9 are above, the warps - A5 - A10 are below, the weft E7 is filled on 30 combed cotton 44 dtex core spun weft.
• the warps A1 the warps A1 - A2 - A3 - A4 - A6 - A7 - A8 - A9 are above, the warps - A5 - A10 are below, the weft E7 is filled on 30 combed cotton 44 dtex core spun weft.
• A9 - A10 are above, the warps - A2 - A7 are below, the weft A9 is filled on 30 combed cotton 44 dtex core spun weft.
• the warps A1 - A2 - A3 - A5 - A6 - A7 - A8 - A10 are above, the warps - A4 - A9 are below, the weft E10 is filled on 30 combed cotton 44 dtex core spun weft.
• the warps A1 - A2 - A3 - A4 - A5 - A7 - A8 - A9 - A10 are above, the warp - C6 is below, the weft E11 is filled on 16 Ring carded weft.
• the warps A2 - A3 - A4 - A5 - A7 - A8 - A9 - A10 are above, the warps - A1 - A6 are below, the weft E12 is filled on 30 combed cotton 44 dtex core spun weft.
• the warps A1 - A2 - A4 - A5 - A6 A7 - A9 - A10 are above, the warps - A3 - A8 are below, and the weft E13 is filled on 30 combed cotton 44 dtex core spun weft.
• the warps A1 - A2 - A3 - A4 - A5 - A6 - A7 - A8 - A9 are above, the warp - A10 is below, the weft E14 is filled on 16 Ring carded weft.
• the warps A1 - A2 - A3 - A4 - A6 - A7 - A8 - A9 are above, the warps - A5 - A10 are below, the weft E15 is filled on 30 combed cotton 44 dtex core spun weft.
• Warp density 37.5 counts/cm comb density
• Warp density 34 counts/cm in raw cotton. 39 counts/cm ready fabric is given.
• a denim fabric is comprised of a front face and a rear face. It is comprised of weaving pattern in which the warp yarn (1) and the weft yarn (2) woven together ( Figure-1 , 2, and 3).
• the warp yarns (1) are indigo and/or sulphur dyed.
• the weft yarn (2) is comprised of at least one straight/rigid weft and/or an elastomeric weft.
• the ratio of elastomeric yarn to rigid/straight yarn may be such as 2:1 or 1 :2. 1 :3 or 3:1 etc. may be preferred.
• the ratio of the yarn does not have to be regular or be the same throughout the fabric.
• the weaving of the fabric is as from the bottom of the warp yarn (1) to top.
• the bottom parts are shaped by the rigid/straight yarn pass behind its warp and is described as a loop.
• the loop formation is shown in Figure-3 and Figure-4.
• the upper parts are shaped by the rigid/straight yarn pass over its warp and are described as connected parts.
• the warp yarns are defined as on top (X) and the weft yarn on top (.).
• the count of warp yarn (1) can be preferred between 5-50 Ne (British Numbering System Delicacy Unit).
• the count, the color and the slub effect of the whole warp yarns which the loops pass, through do not need to be same.
• the count of warp yarn passing through the loop is at least 5 Ne.
• the warp count may change without changing the concept.
• the weft count which the rigid yarns pass from the rear surface should be at least 5.
• the loops pass below the 9 warp yarn and are passed over one warp yarn (1).
• the rigid/straight yarns (16 ring carded) pass below 9 warp yarn (1) and pass over one warp. This combination may be changed without ruining the concept.
• the loops of rigid/straight yarns are less stretched than the elastomeric weft yarns (2).
• the loops provide the fabric appearance as a woven fabric. If these loops are made from soft cotton yarns, a fabric having a soft and comfortable rear surface is produced.
• the other advantage of these loops on the rear surface of the fabric is to prevent contact of warp yarns (1) with the skin. This is important since the warp yarns (1) are indigo-dyed. If the indigo- dyed yarn contact to the wearers, the skin or clothing may be colored.
• the loops extends to the weft and warp yarns (1 , 2) in the transverse direction.
• the connection parts extend to the weft and warp yarns (2, 1) in the transverse direction.
• the rigid/straight yarns in the pattern may be more different than the elastomeric yarns. Together with the other types of the chosen pattern for elastomeric yarns, stretching in a transverse direction is allowed related to the weaving pattern and/or yarn choice and weft and warp yarns (2, 1).
• the other features defining the layout and arrangement of warp and weft yarns (1 , 2) besides appearance, touch, stretching etc. of the fabric is the density of the warp threads (1) or weft threads (2) with one another.
• the density of warp yarns (1) before shrinking is approximately between 20-60 warp yarn/cm.
• the preferred warp density is approximately 25-75 warp yarn/cm.
• the home washing is performed at 60°C, then dried and left conditioning for eight hours. These tests are performed according to ASTM D 3776/96 and BS 63302A techniques.
• the warp density is preferred after weaving, it becomes approximately 25-70 warp yarn/cm (after 3 home washings) after shrinking. If more is desired, the warp density becomes 28-80 yarns/cm after weaving, and becomes 30-85 yarns/cm (after 3 home washings).
• the weft yarn (2) and warp yarn (1) density measurement are performed at 65% humidity ( ⁇ 5%) and 20°C ( ⁇ 2%) conditions.
• weft density similar to warp density. After weaving, before shrinking, the weft density becomes 28-80 yarns/cm. It becomes 30-96 yarns/cm after 3 home washings. The preferred weft density after weaving, before shrinking is 35-85 yarns/cm. After 3 home washings, it is 40-90 yarns/cm. If more is required, it is 35-75 yarns/cm after weaving, before shrinking; and it is 40-80 yarns/cm after 3 home washings.
• the warp and weft density not only gives fabric behavior property to the fabric, but also brings in different weights.
• the ratio of the warp density passing through the loop portion to a warp density is approximately between 0.1 and 1.0. Also the ratio of warp yarns (1) passing through the loop portion to the average weft count is 1-25.
• the other point is the weft and warp yarn (2, 1) thickness. Because the elastomeric yarns should be synthetic or Core spun. The fineness of synthetic yarn is defined as the denier fineness unit, the warp and weft yarns are defined with Ne. As shown in Figure-1 , Figure-2 and Figure-3, the warp, the rigid weft and elastomeric weft yarns (2) may have different thicknesses and elastomeric yarns may have a smaller thickness than rigid/straight yarns.
• the warp yarn number is preferred between Ne 5 - Ne 50.
• the rigid/straight yarns are preferred Ne 8 - Ne 80.
• the elastomeric yarns may be preferred between about 15 - 50 Ne or 40 - 200 denier. If desired, 60 - 100 denier may be chosen.
• We may provide various advantages choosing the yarn thicknesses in the original concept. For example if the thickness of the rigid/straight yarn is greater than that of the elastomeric yarn, we hide the loop portions better and reduce its being felt. Choosing the correct yarn thickness affects the sensing of the fabric as conventional denim or a woven fabric and the weight property, shrinkage values etc.
• FIG-1 and Figure-2 are two perspective of the original concept.
• the fabric can be considered as having two- weavings.
• the first weaving is generally comprised of being firmly woven from warp yarns (1) and elastomeric weft (2) from the front surface of the fabric.
• the second weaving is comprised of generally of rear surface and warp yarns (1) and firmly woven rigid weft yarns (2).
• This rigid weft yarns (2) is comprised of lower portion and upper portion.
• the lower portion is formed by the rigid weft yarn (2) passed behind the warp yarn (1).
• the upper portion is formed by the rigid weft yarn (2) over the warp yarn.
• each loop passes under 9 warps, but in a different example, this may change.
• the first step of the process is the warp yarn (1).
• This step may comprise the selection of the thickness or the density of the warp. Generally the choice is the indigo-dyed warp yarn (1).
• the shrinked warp yarns (1 ) are dyed in the form of warp or rope.
• the rigid/straight warp yarn (2) is provided.
• This step may comprise any aspect of the yarn. It is not limited to the fineness, the shrinkage ratio, elasticity, color, weft density, winding value, and fiber type etc. of the yarn.
• This step represents the step related to the weft yarn (2).
• This step may comprise any aspect of the yarn. It is not limited to the fineness, the shrinkage ratio, elasticity, elastane number, color, weft density, winding value, and fiber type etc. of the yarn.
• This step is the determination of the template.
• the template is chosen, and at least one rigid/straight yarn, at least one elastomeric yarn is arranged. In order to comprise the alignment of the lower .and upper portions, rigid/straight yarns pass behind/over the warps as wicker.
• This step is related to the shrinkage of the fabric after weaving.
• Elastomeric yarns shrink more with respect to rigid/straight yarns (to make the loop patterns with rigid/straight yarns on the lower portion).
• Shrinking occurs when the fabric is removed from the weaving loom.
• shrinking can be applied to the fabric during finishing. If the finishing process of the fabric is over dye in various colors, the finishing process comprise various dyeing and shrinking process steps.
• a fabric has first waving and second weaving.
• First weaving is the front surface of the fabric and comprises warp yarn (1) and firmly woven elastomeric weft yarns (2) of the fabric and again is comprised of warp yarn (1) and loosely woven rigid yarn.
• the second weaving on the rear surface of the fabric covers the warp and elastomeric yarns, it is difficult to see and feel these yarns on the rear surface.
• a woven fabric comprising weft and warp yarn (2, 1) in order to make the upper portion, the weft yarn (2) are extended on to the chosen warp yarn (1) and extended to the bottom from the adjacent yarn.
• the second weft yarn (2) has greater shrinking ration than the first weft yarns (2).
• the first weft yarns (2) has firmer knitting than the second weft yarns (2).
• the fabric production method is as in Figure-1 and Figure-2.
• the unit report of the pattern is described according to the weft alignment.
• the unit report is applied on all warp and weft yarns (1 , 2).
• the connection shapes of warp yarn (1) and weft yarn (2), side view and loop formation are shown in Figure-3 and Figure-4.
• the warp yarn are indicated on top as (X) and the weft yarn are indicated on top as (.).
• the connection of rigid weft or elastomeric weft warp yarns (1) are given to be an example.
• the fabric production comprises one of these applications: mercerize, caustic, over-dye coloring, ' bleaching, hand scraping, sandblasting, stone wash, printing, embroidery, brushing, grinding, etc. as further step comprises tailoring apparel.
• Over dye denim fabric comprising at least one warp yarn (1) dyed in warp or rope, rigid/straight weft yarns (2) and/or elastomeric weft yarns (2), at least one rigid/straight yarn align behind/over the warps to form the upper and lower portions according to the determined shape as wicker, rigid/straight yarns extends over at least one elastomeric yarn, the warp and weft yarns (1 , 2) formed according to the determined template/pattern which the weaving process is performed in determined frequency, extending to loops, warp and weft yarns (1 , 2) and/or warp yarns (1 ) passing from the loop portion which the ratio of average number to the warp density is between 1 and 1.0 and/or the warp yarn (1) which the density value before shrinking is about 20-60 warp yarn/cm and/or the weft yarn (2) which the weft density is about 28-80 yarns/cm after weaving, before shrinking.
• connection parts extending in a transverse direction to the warp and weft yarn (1 , 2) allowing stretching in the transverse direction related to weft and warp yarn (2, 1).
• the looser loops with respect to the weft yarn (2) that prevent the contact of the warp yarn (1) with the skin at the rear side of the fabric comprise the loops of the rigid/straight yarns providing the fabric to appear as a knitted fabric.
• warp yarn (1) between 5 and 50 Ne and weft yarn (2) comprised of at least one straight/rigid weft and/or an elastomeric weft.
• At least one rigid/straight yarns is passed behind/over the warps according to the template, as wicker,
• connection parts which allow stretching in a transverse direction related to weft and warp yarn (2, 1) and extends to the weft and warp yarn (2, 1) in transverse direction
• process steps such as mercerize, caustic, over-dye coloring, bleaching, hand scraping, sandblasting, stone wash, printing, embroidery, brushing, grinding.

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Publications (1)

Family

ID=52627551

Family Applications (1)

Country Status (2)

Cited By (4)

Citations (1)

• 2014
  • 2014-07-22 TR TR2014/08671A patent/TR201408671A2/tr unknown
  • 2014-12-30 WO PCT/TR2014/000537 patent/WO2016013995A1/en active Application Filing

Patent Citations (2)

Also Published As

Similar Documents

Legal Events